Matt Smith Hi there, I’ve been subscribed for a while and have bought a couple of torches that you’ve recommended, thank you. Please don’t shoot me down but but before I was educated by yourself I’d bought an Ultrafire® 7x XM-L T6 7000 Lumens can torch!! Typically the LEDs have died. I’ve put a multimeter on there circuitry and there is power all the way to the PCB so I’ve assumed the LEDs are dead! Using this procedure with the hot plate/frying pan can you recommend a replacement led that I can use. I don’t know whether you know the torch but basically the Aluminium heart sink that the LEDs are on is 45mm diameter, there is one pos & neg soldered to the board that shows 1.5v to 4.2v depending on the mode! 7 (I guess T6 LEDs) flowed to the board which is just plain white. It would be great to upgrade the LEDs if possible which is where I need your help!! The only issue is that there is no way of knowing the orientation of the LEDs to decipher which is pos & neg! One more question........ do you send to the UK? I’m interested in your Mag upgrades as my step father and Dad both have 2 C cell Maglites. Keep up the great work you’re doing, I love your enthusiasm.
3:30 That's 400°F = 204°C, for those of you not in the U S of A. That's about right for Sn 63% / Pb 37% or Sn 60% / Pb 40% solder, but a bit low for lead-free solder. Here's a chart: www.kester.com/Portals/0/Documents/Knowledge%20Base/Alloy%20Temperature%20Chart.pdf
You need more subscribers, this is gold! Had so many questions about how this is done, before I watched your video, now I cant wait to order some emitters and get to it :)
Great video and thank you! Normally I just hold the MCPCB board with a small vice and put my soldering iron right under the MCPCB board to do the reflow.
I just flowed my first LED with a lighter, used a pair of pliers to hold the board and a vice to hold the pliers. Simple and effective :D thanks for the awesome video, it was so helpful!
Fantastic and Thanks a lot, Please if you can give explain about led type. i have T6 diving flash light which LED i should have because i lost the one on it. :)
Hi Waleed. The T6 was a designation for an XML emitter. If that is what was in your light, then I would say using an XML2 U4 would be your best bet, if you will be using the same driver board etc. It's several brightness bins above the T6. asflashlights.com/30-xm-l2
How did that not short out? I'm about to make my first attempt at reflow soldering a cree emitter to a star mcpcb and all I can think about is how am I going to keep my solder from flowing and shorting out my positive and negative? I expected you to use a high tech stencil to precisely apply the paste, but you really just smeared it on there and it seriously looks like it would short out. My emitter and board are much smaller in comparison, too. Any advice, anyone?
The solder "sucks" itself to the metal part of the MCPCB and LED, that "extra stuff" will just disappear. You would have to put on really thick "sausages" of solder paste to get it wrong. For me, it works every time, just like he demonstrates.
@toykeeper you should do anduril clicky where first press sets from moonlight your smooth ramping desired level then release then press again to be at and stay at that level 💙 thanks for better flashlights
Would you say an old pan on an induction or infrared hotplate with a digital temperature setting be just as good as using a stand-alone electric skillet?
I plan to swap 2 of 4 emitters on a D4SV2. For the two emitters I’m not swapping, should I remove them during reflow and reapply sold paste, essentially treating them like to 2 new emitters I’m adding?
Do you reckon a gas camping stove with a frying pan would be good enough temp control? 🤔 Don't have an electric one I can use. 😅 If not it's the paint gun method for me. 😊
Hey Matt, awesome video, thanks! You mentioned you can control the temperature of your hotplate. Can you please point me toward the exact model you have?
You can still do the same thing. There is a thin membrane of the same dome material on them. Just clean it with alcohol when your done to get rid of any oil and dirt from touching it.
Hey Matt i have a Convoy C8 and Astrolux C8... The Astrolux C8 dont have this type of waterdrop in the Led light bulb... What is the waterdrop in the Led light bulb... Is a crystal drop or silicone drop???
So I re flowed the solder tapped it and it still flickers but when I press down on the led dome it stays bright and works fine what do you think is causing the problem?
I know this is an older video, but I've been struggling with a DIY project I wanted to get started. And the main issue is, where do you get your components? I want to do a fish tank light with some Cree XHP35.2 leds and for the life of me I can't find any stars loaded with them in anything but the bottom most bin.
Mouser and digikey are both good sources for bare LEDs. For 35.2 preloaded on a star I would check Mtnelectronics, Cutter electronics and Kaidomain. These are typcially the first places to stock a newer LED already loaded on an MCPCB.
Hey Matt do you know if these XHP70.2 diodes can be ran in parallel? or can they share a PCB with multiple XHP70.2 diodes? I cannot seem to find any PCB boards for an array of them.
Fahrenheit. Here is the data sheet for the paste www.kester.com/DesktopModules/Bring2mind/DMX/Download.aspx?Command=Core_Download&EntryId=1523&language=en-US&PortalId=0&TabId=96 I purchased it at CML supply.
Yes, the prcocess is the same, just make sure you get the + and - orientation correct. On an XPG2 the black dot shows the battery negative, on XPG3 it shows the battery pos side.
it's great information but can you make a new video where we can see what you are doing? missing most of what you are saying to do by visual aspect (can't see it)
Yes that would work fine, just dont get the temp up too high or too fast. Medium/low heat should do it. Just enough to melt the solder. Its also best to put the parts in before you turn on the skillet so they warm a bit slower.
as my dumbass discovered... a soldering iron on a conductive pad will do it. ...if you set off intending to do it id probably alternate touching the iron between the pads around it. that copper holds heat for quite a bit
Such a great video. I'll be doing my first emitter swaps this week. I was a bit worried I'd mess it up, but after watching this video I'm feeling much more confident about the process. You did a great job explaining things and showing how it all works.
Dude youre way past the recommended peak temp time in the data sheet. Sure this works but you killed the life span on those chips without a doubt. You have no clue how to handle LEDs
@@benlawton5420 oh ok, got it... I thought that part would have been probably obvious since it's a "how to", but thanks for clarifying. It makes more sense now.
Had saved this one but watched others over a year ago but wish I had taken the time for this one, the best simplification & examples of room for error I've seen! If you uploaded a chopped version of this one it could help those cautious about attempting their first reflow. I have preloaded certain parts to teach others how un-intimidating it is "I think my friends may be a little ADD too Lol". If you did a 3m set of clips from this one could eliminate any anxiety someone has & get you some well deserved views + subs.
Thanks for this tutorial! I've really wanted to know more about these emitters ever since I began buying the early Cree and then XML-T6 flashlights. Also thanks for the links to buying both the parts. I screenshot the Kester products so I feel armed with enough info. I do have a reflow smd workstation but never did more than my phone's micro USB port replacement. You gave really good hands on info! Liked and subscribed!
Concerning a fail, my son says "skill issue". So I showed him this good "skillet issue" 😃 Thanks for the explanation, will try it with those little 95+ CRI Yuji LEDs.
You Are A Rock Star! I am using a Cree CXA1304. It is about a 1 inch square component with 2 pads to solder the wires to. Do I need a heat sink? Or are they like you mentioned in the video, semi hardy and just solder it like I see it is now? sorry for the obscure question...
Hi Rex. That LED would not need to be reflow soldered to an mcpcb, but it dies need to be attached to a heat sink. I would either use arctic silver 5 and fasten it down with something or use Arctic alumina 2 part epoxy and glue it down. Make sure in either cases you use a very thin layer of the epoxy and that your metal heat sink surface is smooth and flat. The epoxy: asflashlights.com/more-/122-arctic-alumina-2-part-epoxy.html
Does anyone know what value of series resistor is required for these so-called star copper heatsink / LED combo units? I know there is a 3.5x3.5 mm series, a 5x5 mm series, and a 7x7 mm series of raw LED emitter. i know these can work with 3v, 6v, and 12 v. I purchased some 12 v 5x5 mm versions. but i can not find any literature showing a simple overall battery, resistor, star module schematic, and i dont want to fry my unit. Please help!
Bro do you know where to buy an Original LED Driver and LED Diode set that size too 20mm ??? I accidentally touched the dome :'( my fault and apparently destroyed it. TIA :)
Where could I buy the genuine ones not the counterfeit ones, I see alot of cree led and driver on Amazon, Aliexpress,... but not sure if which one were the genuine ones :( .
OK. Here are some genuine cree LEDs on the copper mcpcbs. asflashlights.com/21-led-emitters In order to recommend a driver board I need to know what LED and batteries you intend to use?
Thanks Matt for another instructional video. Will this thing do the job? www.banggood.com/100x100mm-946C-110-220V-450W-Hot-Plate-Preheat-Preheating-Desoldering-Station-for-PCB-SMD-Heating-p-1348274.html - costs is about the same as an electric skillet in AU :)
Great channel Matt, quick question... I recently purchased a pretty cool Night Vision Camera (Sionyx Aurora) that he a small IR internal emitter. I’d like to switch out a led bulb on a flashlight I have, any recommendations or recommended IR flashlight with a large (broad) flood beam? I don’t want to blind the Camera with a hot spot! I am using this for boating at night and it’s capabilities are amazing but I want it to literally be like daylight to the camera! By the way the Sionyx has color night vision.... Again as a new subscriber, love the videos!! Well done Sir?
Very good instruction video.👍 Ihave i little problem. i have got a couple of sofirn C8F hosts. But a cant find any C8F DTP Copper MCPCB 30MM with leds on it. (XP-L HI) have searching on internet. Mountain Electronics only selling the host with Triple C8 LEDs.😒 Do you think i can manage to solder 3 bare emitter on a C8F DTP Copper MCPCB 30MM?
I reflowed my first emitter yesterday. I used a butane jet lighter on to warm up a thick stainless steel flat bar. Solder paste from banggood. Now my astrolux s43s finally works. One nichia 219c emitter is 4000k the other 3 are 4800k, because I couldn't find the stock emitter with cheap shipping.
![Cody Johnson - I'm Gonna Love You (with Carrie Underwood) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yy9PuYMU29g/mqdefault.jpg)
First attempt at SMD parts and LEDs with your "skilletflow" soldering technique: Worked perfectly each time, straight away. Much appreciated!
This is how an instructional video should be done! Answered all my questions and then some. Awesome job!
Electric frying pan?? Ha, who would think of this, that's so awesome! Big work surface and controlled heat.
Thanks Bugdozer, good lux with your projects :)
You mean ewectric not electric.;)
Matt Smith Hi there, I’ve been subscribed for a while and have bought a couple of torches that you’ve recommended, thank you. Please don’t shoot me down but but before I was educated by yourself I’d bought an Ultrafire® 7x XM-L T6 7000 Lumens can torch!! Typically the LEDs have died. I’ve put a multimeter on there circuitry and there is power all the way to the PCB so I’ve assumed the LEDs are dead! Using this procedure with the hot plate/frying pan can you recommend a replacement led that I can use. I don’t know whether you know the torch but basically the Aluminium heart sink that the LEDs are on is 45mm diameter, there is one pos & neg soldered to the board that shows 1.5v to 4.2v depending on the mode! 7 (I guess T6 LEDs) flowed to the board which is just plain white. It would be great to upgrade the LEDs if possible which is where I need your help!! The only issue is that there is no way of knowing the orientation of the LEDs to decipher which is pos & neg! One more question........ do you send to the UK? I’m interested in your Mag upgrades as my step father and Dad both have 2 C cell Maglites. Keep up the great work you’re doing, I love your enthusiasm.
Great explanation, I wish I had seen this a few years ago.
Thank you for the very helpful information. Helped me reflow some UV leds! I used the heat gun method, wouldnt have thought of that on my own.
Wow. Very well explained and detailed video. Thanks!
Thank you Sample Text..
3:30 That's 400°F = 204°C, for those of you not in the U S of A.
That's about right for Sn 63% / Pb 37% or Sn 60% / Pb 40% solder, but a bit low for lead-free solder. Here's a chart:
www.kester.com/Portals/0/Documents/Knowledge%20Base/Alloy%20Temperature%20Chart.pdf
i used a eletric iron to heat up, work really well, it is fast and i can control the temperature.
Nice vid easier than my way with a solder iron heating up the plate to temperature... your way is much more controlled and easier to not overheat.
I have learned so so much from you,thank you Matt, you for sure are the best at what your doing,I guarantee that
If I don't have a skillet or heat gun, could I cut and use the bottom half of an empty soda can and a small candle to create a mini "hot plate"??
I think that would probly work. As long as you can move the soda can up and down to adjust the heat.
Thank you Matt, that was very informative and useful. Very cool
You need more subscribers, this is gold! Had so many questions about how this is done, before I watched your video, now I cant wait to order some emitters and get to it :)
Thank you Hampus.
Great video and thank you! Normally I just hold the MCPCB board with a small vice and put my soldering iron right under the MCPCB board to do the reflow.
Good information and tips! Thank you for sharing
I just flowed my first LED with a lighter, used a pair of pliers to hold the board and a vice to hold the pliers. Simple and effective :D thanks for the awesome video, it was so helpful!
Nice
No boing = bad. Got it!
Hi I am wondering what's gonna happen If you don't give it a "tap" every time before you cool them down?
The LED will be sitting up high on a blob of solder and you wont get good thermal transfer to the mcpcb.
Can you swap an emitter in on my mateminco ft01 ? Its the 10440 light with a 3000k color i cant stand
Fantastic and Thanks a lot,
Please if you can give explain about led type. i have T6 diving flash light which LED i should have because i lost the one on it. :)
Hi Waleed. The T6 was a designation for an XML emitter. If that is what was in your light, then I would say using an XML2 U4 would be your best bet, if you will be using the same driver board etc. It's several brightness bins above the T6.
asflashlights.com/30-xm-l2
FOCUS! FOCUS!
How did that not short out? I'm about to make my first attempt at reflow soldering a cree emitter to a star mcpcb and all I can think about is how am I going to keep my solder from flowing and shorting out my positive and negative? I expected you to use a high tech stencil to precisely apply the paste, but you really just smeared it on there and it seriously looks like it would short out. My emitter and board are much smaller in comparison, too. Any advice, anyone?
The solder "sucks" itself to the metal part of the MCPCB and LED, that "extra stuff" will just disappear. You would have to put on really thick "sausages" of solder paste to get it wrong. For me, it works every time, just like he demonstrates.
Very useful info
@toykeeper you should do anduril clicky where first press sets from moonlight your smooth ramping desired level then release then press again to be at and stay at that level 💙 thanks for better flashlights
wicked advice methods, i use the aluminum bar + torch underneath. heat gun is too risky to lose hair or skin lol.
Thanks for the feedback. I like your avatar BTW....
Thanks bud, its from my days back in the day when i used to run a youtube show... 30k subs back when subs were rare lol
Would you say an old pan on an induction or infrared hotplate with a digital temperature setting be just as good as using a stand-alone electric skillet?
Very nice content, i should have this video few years ago. why did not i think this way. LOL
I plan to swap 2 of 4 emitters on a D4SV2. For the two emitters I’m not swapping, should I remove them during reflow and reapply sold paste, essentially treating them like to 2 new emitters I’m adding?
thank Vesture_of_blood the hotplate works great for me
very good video and tips. Do you now
which is positive on a bare led sst40?
Do you reckon a gas camping stove with a frying pan would be good enough temp control? 🤔 Don't have an electric one I can use. 😅
If not it's the paint gun method for me. 😊
Hey Matt, awesome video, thanks! You mentioned you can control the temperature of your hotplate. Can you please point me toward the exact model you have?
Thank you
If your CREE flashlight or LED flashlight have blinking issues even if you have tried replacing the wires and button, this is also the solution.
No BOING bad... BOING BOING BOING BOING = Good! LOL thanks for great instructional vid. TU'd
Woot :)
If xhp70.2 has dot in the so it means that negative?
Would using a hot air rework gun work? I don't want to use the pan if possible. I'm just worried that the hot air gun may damage the chip
Would a normal pan work removing it from the stove once in position work?
It can work, you have to be careful that it doesn't cool off too quickly
Top video thankss
How to tap a domeless LED like the XHP35 HI?
You can still do the same thing. There is a thin membrane of the same dome material on them. Just clean it with alcohol when your done to get rid of any oil and dirt from touching it.
Thanks
Can't you just by these pre-made?
Hey Matt i have a Convoy C8 and Astrolux C8... The Astrolux C8 dont have this type of waterdrop in the Led light bulb... What is the waterdrop in the Led light bulb... Is a crystal drop or silicone drop???
So I re flowed the solder tapped it and it still flickers but when I press down on the led dome it stays bright and works fine what do you think is causing the problem?
I know this is an older video, but I've been struggling with a DIY project I wanted to get started. And the main issue is, where do you get your components? I want to do a fish tank light with some Cree XHP35.2 leds and for the life of me I can't find any stars loaded with them in anything but the bottom most bin.
Mouser and digikey are both good sources for bare LEDs. For 35.2 preloaded on a star I would check Mtnelectronics, Cutter electronics and Kaidomain. These are typcially the first places to stock a newer LED already loaded on an MCPCB.
Thanks!
great video
Hey Matt do you know if these XHP70.2 diodes can be ran in parallel? or can they share a PCB with multiple XHP70.2 diodes? I cannot seem to find any PCB boards for an array of them.
i need an led pcb for milwaukee torch, 25mm pcb led 20mm fixing centres, 11.6v input, can anybody advise? of an equivalent part
Thank you for the video!!
Quick two questions:
1. Is it 400 Celcius or Farnheit?
2. What are the exact specs of your solder paste?
Thanks again!
Fahrenheit. Here is the data sheet for the paste
www.kester.com/DesktopModules/Bring2mind/DMX/Download.aspx?Command=Core_Download&EntryId=1523&language=en-US&PortalId=0&TabId=96
I purchased it at CML supply.
Thanks a lot!
Paused the video at 4:20 without knowing and was thinking after 5 minutes, this solder is taking along time to melt lol
awesome thanks!!... im going to try this in a week. Anything unique about the XPG3?... its the same procedure right?
Yes, the prcocess is the same, just make sure you get the + and - orientation correct. On an XPG2 the black dot shows the battery negative, on XPG3 it shows the battery pos side.
oK got it thanks!!
it's great information but can you make a new video where we can see what you are doing? missing most of what you are saying to do by visual aspect (can't see it)
Thanks for the feedback Joseph. I probly won't be re shooting soon, but if you have any questions about a particular area I would be happy to help.
I learn too much with u bro
Awesome!
Anyone know where I can get the SinkPAD for the MK-R in UK?
can i use a pan on a induction cooker ?
Yes that would work fine, just dont get the temp up too high or too fast. Medium/low heat should do it. Just enough to melt the solder. Its also best to put the parts in before you turn on the skillet so they warm a bit slower.
Thanks bro :)
Thanks for watching.
Where can i buy 4 piece of this led i need them can you send me and i send you money thanks
trimakasih bro infonya
Hi sir good morning
like boing boing test :)
as my dumbass discovered... a soldering iron on a conductive pad will do it. ...if you set off intending to do it id probably alternate touching the iron between the pads around it. that copper holds heat for quite a bit
Really poor camera angle. Your hand blocked too much of what happens.
The hand is trembling
Good video otherwise!!!!!
SoLder, soLder Not sowder or soda its soLder with an L an L, LLL. Jeeez
You voice almost the same Donald trump
I don't hear that at all. Of course I find Trump to be a bumbling moron while this guy is clearly more qualified to lead a nation lol
I don't get why people still dislikes this video. It's helpful and only a few kind of this video are available.
Thank you Kalo
Bro I used electric iron in my case. :D plus.google.com/116486437098284300502/posts/HsBTHrqg3J6
BTW. Thank you also for the tutorial. :D
Your account bro deserves a verification :D God Bless.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks.
Such a great video. I'll be doing my first emitter swaps this week. I was a bit worried I'd mess it up, but after watching this video I'm feeling much more confident about the process. You did a great job explaining things and showing how it all works.
Thank you rajun, please let us know how your project turns out :)
That’s fantastic procedure to eject excess molten lead. Good to note, how to solder LED Emitters to MCPCB. Thanks, Matt as always.
hmmm - is it such a good idea to fry the leds for many minutes?....
This process could and should be done much faster, i would suggest.
Yeah you want to do it a quick as possible (apart from the heatup)
Dude youre way past the recommended peak temp time in the data sheet. Sure this works but you killed the life span on those chips without a doubt. You have no clue how to handle LEDs
He is just showing how to do it, no one would take this long to do 1 led.
How are you supposed to do it? What's your method?
@@SGCXD He means the guy talked too much but irl you would do this a lot quicker.
@@benlawton5420 oh ok, got it... I thought that part would have been probably obvious since it's a "how to", but thanks for clarifying. It makes more sense now.
Don’t see any chips..... just leds and boards
Had saved this one but watched others over a year ago but wish I had taken the time for this one, the best simplification & examples of room for error I've seen! If you uploaded a chopped version of this one it could help those cautious about attempting their first reflow.
I have preloaded certain parts to teach others how un-intimidating it is "I think my friends may be a little ADD too Lol". If you did a 3m set of clips from this one could eliminate any anxiety someone has & get you some well deserved views + subs.
Thanks for this tutorial! I've really wanted to know more about these emitters ever since I began buying the early Cree and then XML-T6 flashlights. Also thanks for the links to buying both the parts. I screenshot the Kester products so I feel armed with enough info. I do have a reflow smd workstation but never did more than my phone's micro USB port replacement. You gave really good hands on info! Liked and subscribed!
I seen some people use a clothes iron also.
Concerning a fail, my son says "skill issue".
So I showed him this good "skillet issue" 😃
Thanks for the explanation, will try it with those little 95+ CRI Yuji LEDs.
An induction stove plus an infrarred thermometer couple nicely too.
Thanks vestureofblood. ;-)
You Are A Rock Star! I am using a Cree CXA1304. It is about a 1 inch square component with 2 pads to solder the wires to. Do I need a heat sink? Or are they like you mentioned in the video, semi hardy and just solder it like I see it is now? sorry for the obscure question...
Hi Rex. That LED would not need to be reflow soldered to an mcpcb, but it dies need to be attached to a heat sink. I would either use arctic silver 5 and fasten it down with something or use Arctic alumina 2 part epoxy and glue it down. Make sure in either cases you use a very thin layer of the epoxy and that your metal heat sink surface is smooth and flat.
The epoxy: asflashlights.com/more-/122-arctic-alumina-2-part-epoxy.html
Thank You! That Helps! Appreciate It!
Seems to me if the idiots that design these packages would metalize the sides, you wouldn’t have to do any of this when prototyping.
Great demonstration! Subbed.
Does anyone know what value of series resistor is required for these so-called star copper heatsink / LED combo units? I know there is a 3.5x3.5 mm series, a 5x5 mm series, and a 7x7 mm series of raw LED emitter. i know these can work with 3v, 6v, and 12 v. I purchased some 12 v 5x5 mm versions. but i can not find any literature showing a simple overall battery, resistor, star module schematic, and i dont want to fry my unit. Please help!
Does normal solder work good enough? This solder paste is hella expensive and I only need to reflow a few emitters.
400 US&A degrees = 40 horse equivalent temperatures (US&A horses only speaking AmYAriacan accent) times 10 US&A horse leg width (in AmYarican inches) to Kelvin conversion factor
Hi, i already do it and it works to my blfgt changed using cool white, the beam is good
Hi i am forget to said thanks
Bro do you know where to buy an Original LED Driver and LED Diode set that size too 20mm ??? I accidentally touched the dome :'( my fault and apparently destroyed it. TIA :)
Hi Kalo,
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by an Original LED Driver. Can you explain?
Where could I buy the genuine ones not the counterfeit ones, I see alot of cree led and driver on Amazon, Aliexpress,... but not sure if which one were the genuine ones :( .
OK. Here are some genuine cree LEDs on the copper mcpcbs.
asflashlights.com/21-led-emitters
In order to recommend a driver board I need to know what LED and batteries you intend to use?
A hot air reflow station can be purchased for the same price as that hot plate and will work safer and with better results
Everyone owns a cooker anyway.
nice video but your hand is on the way
Note to self, there must be boing boing boing to solider lol.
What if I stick glue around led instead of soldering
Thanks
Thanks Matt for another instructional video. Will this thing do the job? www.banggood.com/100x100mm-946C-110-220V-450W-Hot-Plate-Preheat-Preheating-Desoldering-Station-for-PCB-SMD-Heating-p-1348274.html - costs is about the same as an electric skillet in AU :)
Boing and bop technique eh?
Thx a bunch! Learned a lot! 👍
Jesus , great video
thanks share ..information
Great channel Matt, quick question...
I recently purchased a pretty cool Night Vision Camera (Sionyx Aurora) that he a small IR internal emitter. I’d like to switch out a led bulb on a flashlight I have, any recommendations or recommended IR flashlight with a large (broad) flood beam? I don’t want to blind the Camera with a hot spot! I am using this for boating at night and it’s capabilities are amazing but I want it to literally be like daylight to the camera!
By the way the Sionyx has color night vision....
Again as a new subscriber, love the videos!! Well done Sir?
Very good instruction video.👍 Ihave i little problem. i have got a couple of sofirn C8F hosts. But a cant find any C8F DTP Copper MCPCB 30MM with leds on it. (XP-L HI) have searching on internet. Mountain Electronics only selling the host with Triple C8 LEDs.😒 Do you think i can manage to solder 3 bare emitter on a C8F DTP Copper MCPCB 30MM?
I reflowed my first emitter yesterday. I used a butane jet lighter on to warm up a thick stainless steel flat bar. Solder paste from banggood. Now my astrolux s43s finally works. One nichia 219c emitter is 4000k the other 3 are 4800k, because I couldn't find the stock emitter with cheap shipping.