Nice job on the video. I would seriously add a strain relief to the AC wire, or at least a non conductive bushing. Just good practice to keep insulated wires from chaffing on metal. Thanks for the video! I learned. :)
Thank you for the video. At 5:48 how do you know where the pilot holes are underneath to begin drilling through the vent? I hate videos where details are cutaway and it just magically cuts to everything just working. Just let the video roll. I want to see all the struggles and details.
Hi guys. Looking forward to seeing some of your diy projects, I love your attention to detail. Would you consider taking requests for small projects around the house?
Thank you. We pride ourselves on doing a good job. So do you mean you ask us to do a video on a project that you need done at your own house? Then we do a video on doing it? Because yes that could be something we can do
That's exactly what I'm talking about, for example we have a door handle that has put a hole in the plasterboard (drywall) 6''×1' and has weakened the integrity around the edges.its to late now, but I have now put a door stop on. Thanks guys.
Lots of great details that I couldn't find in other videos! I loved the use of the drywall lift. Wiring and thermostat wiring were also very helpful! On my 30,000 btu Modine Hot Dawg, the vent needs a minimum of 12" straight pipe before the first elbow, so check the manual of your specific unit for the venting requirements.
That is awesome this was helpful. I will have to look over my manual a little closer but it has been running for a couple months now and seems to run great. Thanks for watching
Well thank you very much Robin I hope most of our subscribers on the other channel don’t get disappointed and unsubscribe from the other channel because that channel is not going anywhere this is just another channel so we could show while we’re doing at home but we’re still going to do the other videos
I'm so confused with this horizontal venting.. My manual says 1/4" rise for every foot of pipe.. the key word is "rise"... upwards away from heater.. This vid shows downward slope "for condensation".. Whereas I thought it needed upward slope for carbon monoxide release.. But if it's an upward slope, wouldn't condensation travel back to the heater...or does it burn off..???
Well my manual said downward slope for condensation did not say anything about carbon monoxide other than you have to have your venting outside past your soffit or your gable end so you don’t have a current monoxide coming through your soffit thank you for watching
The manual says it can slope downward no more than 1/4" per foot and needs a drain. But that's only IF your local code allows it. And most codes will only allow up to 6 feet of horizontal run. So, that's a maximum drop of 1-1/2". Looks like he's got about 8 or more there. And I believe the rain cap he has is designed to be installed vertical. Either way, upward or downward slope, a horizontal vent pipe needs a condensation drain.
Gotta follow two bits of code. If the furnace says downwards slope and your local code says upwards you have to do local code. This may vary for commercial vs residential applications here for instance you do a horizontal with a downwards for residential but commercial may require either vertical or upwards horizontal with a condensate drain plumbed in.
Hi guys glad to see that you are doing videos. I love DIY stuff because you can learn so much from watching someone explain as they go. Awesome presentation guys!!! 👍❤😊
I hope our videos are explain well enough that someone can look at the tools list and materials list and be able to do it themselves that’s the goal for these videos is to explain it enough but not To extreme to the point where the videos are too long and some people are like come on that’s obvious
One thing to keep in mind. If you live in an area where you need to get a permit to install a heater you might have to use category III stainless steel vent pipe.
yeah category 3 pipe is positive pressure with condensation exhaust, if you didnt make those press fittings air tight you could dump carbon monoxide inside
Awesome vid guys!! Very well explained!! This is good stuff.... heat in a shop in the north country is a very good thing.. unfortunately..its coming 🥶 Wilton bench vise FTW 😎 good choice 👍
That’s awesome that you noticed my Wilton bench vice yeah I normally like to get the nice and well-built tools but sometimes you have to settle for the cheaper version if you want to buy a number of tools at one time because we just got table top bandsaw table top sander table top bench grinder and a drill press as well for our restorations. Thanks for the nice comment
@@kinzlerbrosdiy6813 I restore old bench vises.. the older ones are 10000% better than the vet junk..I buy them cheap on ebay wire wheel all the paint/muck off..then oil the raw metal.. then resell them back on ebay😁🤑.. I have a Prentiss with a swivel jaw. Came from a railroad shop up north.. it weights close to 250 pounds and has 8" jaws💪😎
No problem I seen that when I was looking for how to videos there were not many that explained in detail on how to do the whole process. I don’t understand why modine does not have videos of doing the work instead they just explain it while the heater sits on a desk. I don’t get it. Thanks for watching
It all depends On that size your unit starts with. If it is 3” out of the back then 3” is fine. But If it’s 4” then please vent it with 4”. Thanks for watching
Your always around and always watching our videos we thought it might benefit us to film our DIY projects at home since we have to do them anyway and make it so regular people can also do these projects on their own
Much we came to the conclusion that since we do so many DIY projects at our house we could spend a little extra time to film them and try to help other people do the same project themselves and save some money and also makes you feel really good when you can complete something on your own thank you for the support on two channels now
❤great job my brother I totally understand all you explain I was just not sure of the space I should be leaving between the roof boards and the unit and does the red and white wires goes on any side of the thermostat?
It depends on how close it is, mine required 4’ of clearance from any soffit /eave vertically & horizontally. If that 4’ is met 12” off the siding is acceptable if not you should be at least 12” beyond the edge of said eave or soffit. Hope that helps
The previous homeowner installed the garage heater which is vented outside. Where the collar is to the outside I can see light looking to the outside around the edges of the collar. Should I seal that and with what?
The rule of thumb for venting on the outside of your structure is to get your double wall vent pipe just passed your soffit if you can if you can’t then you should go down further vertically get further away from your soffit that way the emissions from the heater does not come back into your structure hopefully this helps a little thank you for watching
very well done video, one question, have you noticed your tools getting rusty using a gas heater? i have heard heaters like this causes machinery to rust.
I have had a shop heater in my garage for the last 15 years and I have a lot of bare steel and freshly welded uncoated joints. The only time I had problems with rust is when I turned the heater off, once the heat goes on in late fall it stays on until spring time in my shop. If you let it drop below freezing in my shop then turn the heat on the metal inside will sweat and rust. FWIW I live in Wisconsin, it was 16 degrees this morning.
@@robsplace3589 If the indoor temp gets below freezing and then you warm up the temp above freezing with the heater bare steel absolutely will in fact rust, even with a vented heater, I have a hanging Modine in my shop. I'm not even sure it has to get below freezing, just a big temp swing alone may be enough to promote rusting. I even had moisture get in between the crappy paint job that Moroso puts on their new oil pans and the steel it was painted over and the paint came in in large pieces, playing card sized chunks. At least this will happen in WI winters.
NICE details A+ i love how you used drywall lif to hoist unit in place fantastic 😄idea. Now venting..well in Ontario this venting would not really pass inspection. You have to much drop. It's ok to go 1/4" down but needs a condensate T before exiting out.. That aside It's been a year since you posted this video. So I'm curious if there is the any changes/deterioration to the venting? I'm curious how much that slope affects the proformanc. Thanks for the update 👍 Have a great weekend!
I know the video is not new anymore but where did you land your green, red and white thermostat wires on the terminal block? Was it W for white, R for red and C for green? Thanks
Umm yo be honest idk even anymore I made this video years ago. But I would say yea your assessment is correct. Really the only thing that would go wrong would be a fault and not work I believe. Maybe look it up
Well I would say maybe not right away on the request but I think we might do that in the future you’re not the first person to ask and you know why not do something like that so we can actually help people with projects that they’re literally doing at this time thank you for coming over from the other channel Hope fishing is going good down in Texas better than the time that we were down there
My power in , in the heater box has a strange plug on it this 3 wires would one cut it off and wire it that way? Also have you ever wiring into the card ? Having a plug in on the board just like the thermostat plug in?
I hate to be this person, but if anyone wants to install a Modine Hot Dawg heater up to actual code standards (following the requirements outlined in the IFGC codebook) - this video will not help you other than the mounting. 1. Horizontal venting of this unit requires Category III, UL listed SS dry-seal piping. You cannot use Type B unless it's for commercial/farm purposes. 2. Horizontal venting of this units requires a moisture trap, the location of this trap is dependent on the up/down slope of the piping run. Local code may allow condensate to drip from the venting if sloped down. 3. Any unit like this requires a fused switch or rated circuit breaker between the unit and the outlet. Still leaving a like for some of the other detailed information.
I appreciate all the advice and going into depth with it I actually did leave a downward slope to my double walled stainless pipe going outside for condensation I have seen numerous in numerous in numerous set up just like mine in garage is an attached garage is and so forth so that’s my route thank you for the tips
Hi there. Thanks so much for making this video!! I have this Hot Dog heater and I will be installing it within the next week or two and this video has made it is very, very easy for me to do now. But I do have a couple of questions so I'm hoping you can help me out. First, the pigtail cord. I tried finding that cord, but I don't know what gauge I'm supposed to get. When I try to find it, theres 12, 14 and 16 gauge cords coming up. Is it possible you could please send me a link for the proper cord that's used for the heater? Secondly, what kind of rain cap did you use for the outside vent? I can't seem to find that in a 3", do happen to have a link for that one also? Any help that you can give me I sure would appreciate. Thanks again for posting this video, look forward to hearing from you. 👍😃
I have double wall type B pipe that is too big for the end of the inducer. Can I use a short piece of single wall to attach it, then attach that to my double wall?
This replaced an older wall unit that failed. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxQDiHf0Cagl2e3YNPX-bWnDMXQAL2A2Y8 The grill on the front is nice, the old unit did not have one, just the glass. Much more kid/dog friendly. Best feature is the battery operated igniter..... old one had the plunger type, which was quirky. This one fires right up with just a touch of the button. Takes the chill off a room very quickly, seems to put out more heat that the one that was there, even though they were the same BTUs. Very impressed.... so much so I bought a second one to replace the other old one even though it still works!
I don’t think it’s way too much and the only way to make it within the thimble is to have your venting like right next to the wall I’m not putting another extra elbows and stuff in there for no reason I’ve seen these vented in mini houses I do construction and I’ve asked #min and then install them as well and they told me what I did was right people do things differently state codes are different but I still appreciate your input and for watching
Have you had any issues with the venting yet? I just did this with double wall type b and used an adjustable elbow to get the angle right, come to find out you're not allowed to use this type b vent anymore horizontally... seems kind of silly to me, since cat 3 is much more hot for terminating through a wall.
So this I am not 100% positive on how but I think before you go straight up with your vent pipe if you make a t and make like a catch below before you go up. like a 4 inch bottom on it I think that would be for your condensation that it had a little bit of the angle on it so the condensation will fall down into there and evaporate I did this for the first time myself in this video so I’m no expert but thank you for watching the video I hope it was helpful
I'm so confused with this horizontal venting.. My manual says 1/4" rise for every foot of pipe.. the key word is "rise"... upwards away from heater.. This vid shows downward slope "for condensation".. Whereas I thought it needed upward for carbon monoxide release.. But if it's an upward, wouldn't condensation travel back to the heater...or does it burn off..???
@@JoHa-dl5zr the longer your vent pipe the more condensation you’ll have due to the exhaust temp drop the farther you get from the unit. Water is a byproduct of combustion. Same as with a vehicles exhaust. The muffler which is the farthest from the engine has a weep hole to allow condensation to escape. If there was a very short exhaust the heated vapors would not have time to condensate and therefore accumulate in the exhaust pipe.
your vent pipe should never run down in any part of the system. Yours runs down at the furnace. Aluminum pipe is for your dryer. The pipe should not be mixed, your running aluminum, double wall, and single wall galvanized together.
Well I actually just looked at the house that I am sheetrocking on their unit that they have and there’s just got set up and they’re running two separate kinds of metals for piping as well I don’t know your state codes I mean I’m not saying I’m right I just don’t think it’s going to be a problem a dryer vent also gets hot maybe not as hot as the venting for my unit but as far as the little bit of a slant to it it says in the manual that if your wall venting you have to have a small slope for condensation so My video is for DIY people I think that if they did the same thing I did they wouldn’t have an issue with the two metals being together I haven’t had an issue with it but I appreciate you bring it to my attention and thank you for watching
your vent pipe should run up its the other way you did the slope. It should be gradually going up not going down. Should be 1/4 of an inch for every foot@@kinzlerbrosdiy6813
Well I have talked to hvac installers and they said I did it just fine. I have also had them watch the video. State codes are different everywhere. I had the gas hooked up professionally. So I don’t know what’s wrong with what I did. Since I have seen these mounted and vented similar at many homes I work in. When doing drywall. But thanks for your comment.
@@kinzlerbrosdiy6813 I think you did an awesome job .. I think others are mad you didn't spend 300 on a class 3 vent kit that most of these guys on RUclips buy , but most of them are cracking out double the btu .. and I under stood the double 90 which some don't under stand if it wasn't done that way you wouldn't of been able to clear underneath your soffit ... and the fact you use screws to mount it .. instead of threaded rod .. which again your heater is small .. ppl don't realize it's very close to a range microwave , kept it simple , great video thanks for sharing
Yeah what's the deal on the vet vet supposed to be going up too? Very not downgraved my damn dog barking in the background. Somebody must be here. Maybe it's the vent people
Well I have seen a lot of set ups and mine is the same way and my garage has been nicely heated and no issues at all. Throughout winter in North Dakota. But thanks for watching
Do not use that silver tape on your duct connections. It's a hack job looks like shit and the glue melts off it's toxic then the tape is useless anyway. High temp caulk people. This is why You Tube is not always the best place to get instructions on installs. Some great DIY help on You Tube That silver tape is not one of them.
I'm not sure where you live, but I highly recommend that everyone check the codes for their area. Where I live, it's a violation to install the outside rain cap in anything other than the vertical position, so you would need a 90 degree elbow to turn it upright. They do make caps for vertical use, but the one you have doesn't appear to be designed for it, and will likely not keep a heavy rain out, in that position. Also... I have never, EVER seen a code that allows a flue pipe of ANY kind to turn downward more than an inch or two below the point where it exits the heater. Even if it has an exhaust blower pushing the flue gas out. The manual for that heater even states that a vertical vent shouldn't slope downwards more than 1/4" per foot to allow for drainage of condensation away from the heater, and that's only if your local code allows it. And it needs a proper drain leg. (see page 10, section C7) www.modinehvac.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Hot-Dawg-Power-Vented.pdf The way you have it, that pipe will collect and hold condensation, and rot through the pipe before long. You're also using a section of aluminum Dryer vent pipe inside. That's a HUGE code violation and SUPER dangerous. It's not made for flue gas venting and will corrode and rot through even with a proper condensation drain. It needs to be galvanized metal flue pipe. I'm also really curious why you didn't just run it straight up through the roof instead. Not really any harder and it looks a hell of a lot nicer having it up top and out of the way of everything instead of sticking out of the wall like that. Might even use less pipe. Be safe out there, friends.
It’s been like that for over two years and nothing has rotted at all and I do not have aluminum piping outside my garage. It’s all galvanized outside. My double wall goes through my wall and outside. My local ac guy hooked my fathers up just like this. Never had a problem with heavy rain either and it sits on the NE corner of my garage. But thanks for all your thought out comment
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Nice job on the video. I would seriously add a strain relief to the AC wire, or at least a non conductive bushing. Just good practice to keep insulated wires from chaffing on metal. Thanks for the video! I learned. :)
Thank you very much for the tip I appreciate that
Excellent presentation, you took your time explaining every step of process and showing everything needed for installation. GREAT video, thank you.
Well thank You very much
David Spade of heating lol! Excellent video.
That’s funny. Like his comedy.
Thank you for the video. At 5:48 how do you know where the pilot holes are underneath to begin drilling through the vent? I hate videos where details are cutaway and it just magically cuts to everything just working. Just let the video roll. I want to see all the struggles and details.
Nice heater perfect for my camping/hunting trips.
I think I could do his with your very informative video. Thank you. Hope you folks do more videos. Refreshing to see DIY with no selling.
Great video…my heater has been sitting in the box so now I have some ideas of how to mount it!! Thanks for that.
Dang y'all are some smart guys!!! So fun to watch and learn. Thanks.
Well that is very nice of you to say we are very good at a lot of different things which helps out a lot when you own a home
If you keep up well detailed videos like this and detailed description boxes your channel will grow for sure!
Thanks very much.
Great video/ thanks! Good audio, good lighting, easy to follow, thankyouverymuch.
Thanks so much that was what we were aiming to do make it easy to follow see and understand
Hi guys. Looking forward to seeing some of your diy projects, I love your attention to detail. Would you consider taking requests for small projects around the house?
Thank you. We pride ourselves on doing a good job. So do you mean you ask us to do a video on a project that you need done at your own house? Then we do a video on doing it? Because yes that could be something we can do
That's exactly what I'm talking about, for example we have a door handle that has put a hole in the plasterboard (drywall) 6''×1' and has weakened the integrity around the edges.its to late now, but I have now put a door stop on. Thanks guys.
Lots of great details that I couldn't find in other videos! I loved the use of the drywall lift. Wiring and thermostat wiring were also very helpful!
On my 30,000 btu Modine Hot Dawg, the vent needs a minimum of 12" straight pipe before the first elbow, so check the manual of your specific unit for the venting requirements.
That is awesome this was helpful. I will have to look over my manual a little closer but it has been running for a couple months now and seems to run great. Thanks for watching
Positive pressure horizontal venting requires category 3 stainless from the heater all the way to the cap. It needs to be airtight.
Good job
Made it finally and following with bells on of course!
Well thank you very much Robin I hope most of our subscribers on the other channel don’t get disappointed and unsubscribe from the other channel because that channel is not going anywhere this is just another channel so we could show while we’re doing at home but we’re still going to do the other videos
@@kinzlerbrosdiy6813 all good! no worries, hope next giveaway i have a chance.
Good job hope it keeps you warm and safe to do more projects thanks
Oh yeah it will definitely keep us warm because the garage is well insulated and I get to start working on my next restoration this weekend
I'm so confused with this horizontal venting.. My manual says 1/4" rise for every foot of pipe.. the key word is "rise"... upwards away from heater.. This vid shows downward slope "for condensation".. Whereas I thought it needed upward slope for carbon monoxide release.. But if it's an upward slope, wouldn't condensation travel back to the heater...or does it burn off..???
Well my manual said downward slope for condensation did not say anything about carbon monoxide other than you have to have your venting outside past your soffit or your gable end so you don’t have a current monoxide coming through your soffit thank you for watching
The manual says it can slope downward no more than 1/4" per foot and needs a drain. But that's only IF your local code allows it. And most codes will only allow up to 6 feet of horizontal run. So, that's a maximum drop of 1-1/2". Looks like he's got about 8 or more there. And I believe the rain cap he has is designed to be installed vertical. Either way, upward or downward slope, a horizontal vent pipe needs a condensation drain.
@@JohhnyB82 yes , heat rises my manual said the same. I bought the pipe with drain also.
If the unit is fan assisted, you can get away with a downward slope, if it's gravity vented then you need an upward slope.
Gotta follow two bits of code. If the furnace says downwards slope and your local code says upwards you have to do local code. This may vary for commercial vs residential applications here for instance you do a horizontal with a downwards for residential but commercial may require either vertical or upwards horizontal with a condensate drain plumbed in.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
No problem
Hi guys glad to see that you are doing videos. I love DIY stuff because you can learn so much from watching someone explain as they go. Awesome presentation guys!!! 👍❤😊
I hope our videos are explain well enough that someone can look at the tools list and materials list and be able to do it themselves that’s the goal for these videos is to explain it enough but not To extreme to the point where the videos are too long and some people are like come on that’s obvious
Here to support the new channel!
Thanks buddy we hope we can make some informational videos on here
@@kinzlerbrosdiy6813 I'm always down for information videos. Who knows maybe you'll film something I need to know !
Is the double wall only needed to go through the wall? The heat wont warp the single wall that is attached right off the exhaust? Thank you.
One thing to keep in mind. If you live in an area where you need to get a permit to install a heater you might have to use category III stainless steel vent pipe.
Yes this is true I think I actually used I’m not sure category three double wall vent it 3 foot pipe thank you for watching
yeah category 3 pipe is positive pressure with condensation exhaust, if you didnt make those press fittings air tight you could dump carbon monoxide inside
Due to the positive pressure, Category III is required.
Cool little diy video seems really helpful. Nice work Bros
Thank you for watching!
Appreciate the video and insight!
Muchas gracias
Awesome vid guys!! Very well explained!!
This is good stuff.... heat in a shop in the north country is a very good thing.. unfortunately..its coming 🥶
Wilton bench vise FTW 😎 good choice 👍
That’s awesome that you noticed my Wilton bench vice yeah I normally like to get the nice and well-built tools but sometimes you have to settle for the cheaper version if you want to buy a number of tools at one time because we just got table top bandsaw table top sander table top bench grinder and a drill press as well for our restorations. Thanks for the nice comment
@@kinzlerbrosdiy6813 I restore old bench vises.. the older ones are 10000% better than the vet junk..I buy them cheap on ebay wire wheel all the paint/muck off..then oil the raw metal.. then resell them back on ebay😁🤑.. I have a Prentiss with a swivel jaw. Came from a railroad shop up north.. it weights close to 250 pounds and has 8" jaws💪😎
Great tutorial video bruh!
Thank you, much appreciated :)
Your double wall pipe is in natal led backwards
Nice video bud!
Great video thank you!
No problem I seen that when I was looking for how to videos there were not many that explained in detail on how to do the whole process. I don’t understand why modine does not have videos of doing the work instead they just explain it while the heater sits on a desk. I don’t get it. Thanks for watching
Hey just watch awesome keep up the good work
We appreciate you coming over from the other channel
Do you have a video where you show the gas line being installed into the heater and propane tank?
Great video!!! Thank you!
Question: My heater is a 50,000 btu can I still use 3” pipe or do I have to use 4”?
It all depends
On that size your unit starts with. If it is 3” out of the back then 3” is fine. But If it’s 4” then please vent it with 4”. Thanks for watching
@@kinzlerbrosdiy6813 ok perfect! It starts with a 4” simple enough. Thank you 🙏
Congratulations you guys for you new channel hope you have all the success ❤️ .
You guys got my full support 🔥
Your always around and always watching our videos we thought it might benefit us to film our DIY projects at home since we have to do them anyway and make it so regular people can also do these projects on their own
hey boys ;)
great job and great video ;)
nice to have an diy channel ;)
Much we came to the conclusion that since we do so many DIY projects at our house we could spend a little extra time to film them and try to help other people do the same project themselves and save some money and also makes you feel really good when you can complete something on your own thank you for the support on two channels now
@@kinzlerbrosdiy6813 ;) im glad im here ;)
thanks
Your elbows are restricting flow from purge fan. 1st foot needs to be straight. Also horizontal flue is 4 inch category 3 flue nation wide!
❤great job my brother I totally understand all you explain I was just not sure of the space I should be leaving between the roof boards and the unit and does the red and white wires goes on any side of the thermostat?
The red and white wires are on the same side
Great vid thanks! DO you think it would be a problem to not have the outside exhaust not clear the soffit?
It depends on how close it is, mine required 4’ of clearance from any soffit /eave vertically & horizontally. If that 4’ is met 12” off the siding is acceptable if not you should be at least 12” beyond the edge of said eave or soffit. Hope that helps
Good job except you should have put a cable guard on where the power cord entered the heater box.
Assistindo e já inscrito! 😊👍🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟🔰
Thanks for making the trip over from our main channel
@@kinzlerbrosdiy6813 😊👍
Subscribed!
Thank you for watching and subscribing our next diy video is in the works.
The previous homeowner installed the garage heater which is vented outside. Where the collar is to the outside I can see light looking to the outside around the edges of the collar. Should I seal that and with what?
Yes I sealed mine with fire block caulk. Thanks for watching
I must know, does TKB on the back of your shirt stand for Takin Kare’a Business?
No it actually stands for the Kinzler Bros. Thanks for watching
Can I put the vent closer to the side of my building? I think it'll look better but I don't want a fire hazard
The rule of thumb for venting on the outside of your structure is to get your double wall vent pipe just passed your soffit if you can if you can’t then you should go down further vertically get further away from your soffit that way the emissions from the heater does not come back into your structure hopefully this helps a little thank you for watching
Hello, didn't mention what kind of thermostat you are using, and how to wire that into the system.
Yes that is true sorry about that
You say to slope down on the vent... the heater manual I read said to slope up minimum 1/4" per foot
All heaters have diff instructions
very well done video, one question, have you noticed your tools getting rusty using a gas heater? i have heard heaters like this causes machinery to rust.
I have had a shop heater in my garage for the last 15 years and I have a lot of bare steel and freshly welded uncoated joints. The only time I had problems with rust is when I turned the heater off, once the heat goes on in late fall it stays on until spring time in my shop. If you let it drop below freezing in my shop then turn the heat on the metal inside will sweat and rust. FWIW I live in Wisconsin, it was 16 degrees this morning.
@@fastone371non-vented propane heaters (torpedo or space) produce moisture, vented heaters like the one in this video does not make tools rust.
@@robsplace3589 If the indoor temp gets below freezing and then you warm up the temp above freezing with the heater bare steel absolutely will in fact rust, even with a vented heater, I have a hanging Modine in my shop. I'm not even sure it has to get below freezing, just a big temp swing alone may be enough to promote rusting. I even had moisture get in between the crappy paint job that Moroso puts on their new oil pans and the steel it was painted over and the paint came in in large pieces, playing card sized chunks. At least this will happen in WI winters.
NICE details A+ i love how you used drywall lif to hoist unit in place fantastic 😄idea. Now venting..well in Ontario this venting would not really pass inspection. You have to much drop. It's ok to go 1/4" down but needs a condensate T before exiting out.. That aside It's been a year since you posted this video. So I'm curious if there is the any changes/deterioration to the venting? I'm curious how much that slope affects the proformanc. Thanks for the update 👍 Have a great weekend!
I know the video is not new anymore but where did you land your green, red and white thermostat wires on the terminal block? Was it W for white, R for red and C for green? Thanks
Umm yo be honest idk even anymore I made this video years ago. But I would say yea your assessment is correct. Really the only thing that would go wrong would be a fault and not work I believe. Maybe look it up
What’s up fromTX! Just subbed. Are we going to be able to submit requests for the channel?
Well I would say maybe not right away on the request but I think we might do that in the future you’re not the first person to ask and you know why not do something like that so we can actually help people with projects that they’re literally doing at this time thank you for coming over from the other channel Hope fishing is going good down in Texas better than the time that we were down there
What model is the one you working on
My power in , in the heater box has a strange plug on it this 3 wires would one cut it off and wire it that way? Also have you ever wiring into the card ? Having a plug in on the board just like the thermostat plug in?
If it’s three wires strip your pigtail back and wire but then together the tape it up
I hate to be this person, but if anyone wants to install a Modine Hot Dawg heater up to actual code standards (following the requirements outlined in the IFGC codebook) - this video will not help you other than the mounting.
1. Horizontal venting of this unit requires Category III, UL listed SS dry-seal piping. You cannot use Type B unless it's for commercial/farm purposes.
2. Horizontal venting of this units requires a moisture trap, the location of this trap is dependent on the up/down slope of the piping run. Local code may allow condensate to drip from the venting if sloped down.
3. Any unit like this requires a fused switch or rated circuit breaker between the unit and the outlet.
Still leaving a like for some of the other detailed information.
I appreciate all the advice and going into depth with it I actually did leave a downward slope to my double walled stainless pipe going outside for condensation I have seen numerous in numerous in numerous set up just like mine in garage is an attached garage is and so forth so that’s my route thank you for the tips
I will angle my exhaust down a little bit also to keep water out.
That is NOT how Modine recommends to do it.
Something to do with air draft.😂
Hi there. Thanks so much for making this video!!
I have this Hot Dog heater and I will be installing it within the next week or two and this video has made it is very, very easy for me to do now.
But I do have a couple of questions so I'm hoping you can help me out.
First, the pigtail cord. I tried finding that cord, but I don't know what gauge I'm supposed to get. When I try to find it, theres 12, 14 and 16 gauge cords coming up.
Is it possible you could please send me a link for the proper cord that's used for the heater?
Secondly, what kind of rain cap did you use for the outside vent? I can't seem to find that in a 3", do happen to have a link for that one also? Any help that you can give me I sure would appreciate. Thanks again for posting this video, look forward to hearing from you. 👍😃
You welcome
What about the gas service line?
What type of horizontal vent termination is that?
What is suggested in the manual
I have double wall type B pipe that is too big for the end of the inducer. Can I use a short piece of single wall to attach it, then attach that to my double wall?
Yes. Get a 4 to 3 reducer.
Read the manual. Vent size determined by heater btu. Sidewall requires special vent system. Can't use b vent unless vertical around here anyway
Hello. What thermostat did you use? I have the same heater and I'm thinking the Honeywell I have is not the correct one.
Yes I used a Honeywell. It straight forward as for wiring. Red goes to r and white goes to w
Sub'ed!
Thanks Kevin, we appreciate it
shouldnt you be using a double walled vent pipe?
why cut a 3" THEN a 5 1/2" hole. Lennox makes a 5 1/2" hole saw. Shouldn't the ceiling sprayfoam be sheetrocked ? I think it's flammable
What is the purpose of the sheetrock above? Is it required?
Fire protection and yes, some city codes require it. That being said, some cities require (2) layers of sheet rock.
hello, how did you connect these 3 wires to the thermostat?
I ran thermostat wire from the heater over into my other wall to my thermostat
This replaced an older wall unit that failed. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxQDiHf0Cagl2e3YNPX-bWnDMXQAL2A2Y8 The grill on the front is nice, the old unit did not have one, just the glass. Much more kid/dog friendly. Best feature is the battery operated igniter..... old one had the plunger type, which was quirky. This one fires right up with just a touch of the button. Takes the chill off a room very quickly, seems to put out more heat that the one that was there, even though they were the same BTUs. Very impressed.... so much so I bought a second one to replace the other old one even though it still works!
The only downward slope should be within the thimble. What you have there is way too much.. Oh my..
I don’t think it’s way too much and the only way to make it within the thimble is to have your venting like right next to the wall I’m not putting another extra elbows and stuff in there for no reason I’ve seen these vented in mini houses I do construction and I’ve asked #min and then install them as well and they told me what I did was right people do things differently state codes are different but I still appreciate your input and for watching
My heater says use an uphill to vent. I’m using mr heater big max
mhmm weird hope you figure it all out
I ended up just going straight up out the roof
Some units specify uphill and/or downhill slope on the venting. Check the manual for your unit.
This vent configuration in this video isn't in any manual. Should have used z vent
Have you had any issues with the venting yet? I just did this with double wall type b and used an adjustable elbow to get the angle right, come to find out you're not allowed to use this type b vent anymore horizontally... seems kind of silly to me, since cat 3 is much more hot for terminating through a wall.
No I haven’t had any issues yet honest truth and I live i North Dakota it’s in r the single digits today
How do you prevent the condensation coming back in to the heater if doing a ceiling vent?
So this I am not 100% positive on how but I think before you go straight up with your vent pipe if you make a t and make like a catch below before you go up. like a 4 inch bottom on it I think that would be for your condensation that it had a little bit of the angle on it so the condensation will fall down into there and evaporate I did this for the first time myself in this video so I’m no expert but thank you for watching the video I hope it was helpful
They make a special adapter for addition of a condensate line. It’s also recommended to have a 1/4 in rise for every foot of vent pipe.
I'm so confused with this horizontal venting.. My manual says 1/4" rise for every foot of pipe.. the key word is "rise"... upwards away from heater.. This vid shows downward slope "for condensation".. Whereas I thought it needed upward for carbon monoxide release.. But if it's an upward, wouldn't condensation travel back to the heater...or does it burn off..???
@@JoHa-dl5zr the longer your vent pipe the more condensation you’ll have due to the exhaust temp drop the farther you get from the unit.
Water is a byproduct of combustion. Same as with a vehicles exhaust. The muffler which is the farthest from the engine has a weep hole to allow condensation to escape. If there was a very short exhaust the heated vapors would not have time to condensate and therefore accumulate in the exhaust pipe.
Glasses man!! You can’t grow them back😂
Bro, is that a spade tat on your bicep?
Yes it sure is my friend pretty cool that you noticed and thank you for watching
Have one myself on my left bicep lol… SRH 🤙🏼
Sorry, but your your wiring is not to code. Did you check the WC pressure to the manifold. Be safe.
45,000 BTU's, you guys will be toasty this winter
Yea we will be for sure
@@kinzlerbrosdiy6813 Good working environment for all your restoration projects
Maybe that's fresh air coming in making it hot air blowing out maybe maybe not 🚫
Dude your flue should be pitched up not down. Ur unit is higher than your flue outlet
If it was higher than condensation would come back into the structure and sit the rot my piping the manual say to slope down and away
Does the manual show your configuration using c vent?
The termination for your exhaust outside needs to be 2 feet away from that soffit, also you need to have a combustion air intake for that garage.
That’s not true it has to be passed your soffit but not two feet passed at least in my area.
Watch out for carbon dioxide. No bullshit
I have a. Carbon dioxide detector in my garage and hasn’t went off in over two years and I live in North Dakota it gets cold here
your vent pipe should never run down in any part of the system. Yours runs down at the furnace. Aluminum pipe is for your dryer. The pipe should not be mixed, your running aluminum, double wall, and single wall galvanized together.
Well I actually just looked at the house that I am sheetrocking on their unit that they have and there’s just got set up and they’re running two separate kinds of metals for piping as well I don’t know your state codes I mean I’m not saying I’m right I just don’t think it’s going to be a problem a dryer vent also gets hot maybe not as hot as the venting for my unit but as far as the little bit of a slant to it it says in the manual that if your wall venting you have to have a small slope for condensation so My video is for DIY people I think that if they did the same thing I did they wouldn’t have an issue with the two metals being together I haven’t had an issue with it but I appreciate you bring it to my attention and thank you for watching
the vent kit i bought has two different types of pipe. So it must be fine
your vent pipe should run up its the other way you did the slope. It should be gradually going up not going down. Should be 1/4 of an inch for every foot@@kinzlerbrosdiy6813
So much crap wrong here, it’s embarrassing and a shame. From code violations to unsafe practices.
Well I have talked to hvac installers and they said I did it just fine. I have also had them watch the video. State codes are different everywhere. I had the gas hooked up professionally. So I don’t know what’s wrong with what I did. Since I have seen these mounted and vented similar at many homes I work in. When doing drywall. But thanks for your comment.
Tell me what’s wrong with it
@@kinzlerbrosdiy6813 I think you did an awesome job .. I think others are mad you didn't spend 300 on a class 3 vent kit that most of these guys on RUclips buy , but most of them are cracking out double the btu .. and I under stood the double 90 which some don't under stand if it wasn't done that way you wouldn't of been able to clear underneath your soffit ... and the fact you use screws to mount it .. instead of threaded rod .. which again your heater is small .. ppl don't realize it's very close to a range microwave , kept it simple , great video thanks for sharing
Yeah what's the deal on the vet vet supposed to be going up too? Very not downgraved my damn dog barking in the background. Somebody must be here. Maybe it's the vent people
Flue gases rise. Your venting is going to kill someone.
Very half assed
Well I have seen a lot of set ups and mine is the same way and my garage has been nicely heated and no issues at all. Throughout winter in North Dakota. But thanks for watching
Do not use that silver tape on your duct connections. It's a hack job looks like shit and the glue melts off it's toxic then the tape is useless anyway. High temp caulk people. This is why You Tube is not always the best place to get instructions on installs. Some great DIY help on You Tube That silver tape is not one of them.
Your venting is not to code.
All wrong...venting is supposed be higher than unit so residual gas can escape vent that slopes up not down.
Take this video down
I'm not sure where you live, but I highly recommend that everyone check the codes for their area. Where I live, it's a violation to install the outside rain cap in anything other than the vertical position, so you would need a 90 degree elbow to turn it upright. They do make caps for vertical use, but the one you have doesn't appear to be designed for it, and will likely not keep a heavy rain out, in that position.
Also... I have never, EVER seen a code that allows a flue pipe of ANY kind to turn downward more than an inch or two below the point where it exits the heater. Even if it has an exhaust blower pushing the flue gas out. The manual for that heater even states that a vertical vent shouldn't slope downwards more than 1/4" per foot to allow for drainage of condensation away from the heater, and that's only if your local code allows it. And it needs a proper drain leg.
(see page 10, section C7) www.modinehvac.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Hot-Dawg-Power-Vented.pdf
The way you have it, that pipe will collect and hold condensation, and rot through the pipe before long. You're also using a section of aluminum Dryer vent pipe inside. That's a HUGE code violation and SUPER dangerous. It's not made for flue gas venting and will corrode and rot through even with a proper condensation drain. It needs to be galvanized metal flue pipe.
I'm also really curious why you didn't just run it straight up through the roof instead. Not really any harder and it looks a hell of a lot nicer having it up top and out of the way of everything instead of sticking out of the wall like that. Might even use less pipe.
Be safe out there, friends.
It’s been like that for over two years and nothing has rotted at all and I do not have aluminum piping outside my garage. It’s all galvanized outside. My double wall goes through my wall and outside. My local ac guy hooked my fathers up just like this. Never had a problem with heavy rain either and it sits on the NE corner of my garage. But thanks for all your thought out comment