One of the best bike video blog I have ever seen - informative, full of details, with nice illustrative. As i'm also looking to have my gravel bike set up in 1x Di2 configuration, this should be the best reference. Thank you and keep up great work!
I ordered a narrow wide chainring from China to make an one by drivetrain and it arrived in the middle of this video lol! I can't wait to get home and install it. Hope it stops the problem of my chain dropping all the time with the normal index chain which the teeth are smaller
Thank you so much!! An offset oval chainring is exactly what I was looking for for my 1x conversion. Wolf Tooth seems to be the only brand who makes offset ones to fit the chainline on an 2x road crank.
NIce setup, very clean looking. Just in the process of converting my 52/36 oval crank to a single 52t oval and changing the cassette from 11-28 to 11-36. Second bike I've set up like this so I'm confident about the gear ratios I've chosen. First time I did the conversion I went with mechainical mountain rear derailleur but this time its all mechanical and road derailleur. Absolutely love the setup so simple, I'm considering setting my race bike up as a single.
Rides of Japan roadlink on 6800 short cage. Previously ran 11-34 with 9speed MTN rd but swapped that for tiagra 4700 GS. Worked well without narrow wide chainring. Will be using standard oval (non ramped) chainring again but will change the P spring tension setting in the body of the rear derailleur. Not as effective as clutch mech but sufficient for road use.
A couple years ago I took my old Giant TCR 0, 2003 model and put a XT rear derailleur on it with a 11x40 and put a Wolf Tooth 50t wide-narrow up front. I had to install a Wolf Tooth Tanpan so the shifting would work with the road shifters.
I run a wolf tooth road link on my 6770 Di2, and I switched out the medium cage for a long cage from a mechanical RD-6700... not sure if it would accommodate a 42, but it handles a 36 perfectly. I think I could go up to 40 comfortably. Saved me the extra money on buying a new RD. I'm still up 2 chainrings up front though :-)
Thanks! Yeah, currently recovering from being hit by taxi (while walking) but hopefully I can give an update on durability etc as I get some distance on it.
@@ridesofjapan your experience inspired me to build my own custom gravel bike on the Cannondale Slate's platform. So, a frame is on the way from Australia, some parts are going from England and Germany, some special kits will be sent from USA. It's very interesting to do this)
I know I am a little late to the game on this video so I checked the comments and did see any about weighing the the chainring AFTER the tabs were cut off 😀
Been a Di2 user since 2012, I'm a hardcore shimano fanboy. Like the Shimano ergonomics better (Especially the new GRX di2 levers which I don't own unfortunately), mineral oil instead of DOT, only one battery to worry about that I only charge max 2 times/year. The only thing that tempts me about SRAM is 12speed... but hopefully that will change this year. (Again, totally subjective, full fanboy, no one should base their choice base on my opinion here hehe)
Nice work....I would of put one more link in it.....otherwise pretty cool.....need weight credit for cable and housing n if you change out the shifter/brake for just a brake.....both my mtbs are 1x....one xtr, one eagle....road is 2x but I'm a fan....its the future for many roadies - they just don't wanna know it yet.
+Cliff Clermont thanks mate! I’ll keep that in mind for the next chain or if I run into any problem shifting... first time on 1x for me so still a lot to learn. Did not change anything with the shifters. Instead I configured both left end right to shift the same way, that way I can shift one-handed while taking photos (just asking for an accident to happen hehe) I also think we’ll see more of this in the future. But I recognize there are strong points against it for real racers. I’m sure technology will evolve though, seeing Aqua Blue Sport on the 1x Strada next year will be interesting.
My gravel/adventure/road - jack of all things is my main commuting choice and since I don't climb much I am finding the whole front derailleur thing extremely annoying. I have a Shimano Sora and while the rear derailleur is fluid yet snappy - the front is a chore. I don't know if I got a bad one or if Sora is just shy of being on the worthy list of drive train to use. Anyway, I am considering taking off the front derailleur, taking off the never used small ring and sticking with the large ring. I don't know off the top of my head but I believe it is a 52t ring and the thing that has been holding me back on going with a proper 1x setup is I had seen the mtb 1x setups and thought to myself that I would hamster wheel myself to death with that small of a front ring. Thank God someone out there has been doing the thinking for me and now I see what is possible. I can have my 1x and not have to eat it too! So, I just wonder if the 2x is still the future for roadies or if it's now - for us commuties I don't care for it, but can see it's benefits!
Shimano instructions for chain, (modern shadow geometry), outside der, big and big, plus two links. Install through der, shift to small-small (or 9 and secondary for di2) and extend B tension to take out slack. One link is one inner and one outer. Sram is b tension pre-set in middle travel, big-big outside der, plus one inch, plus power link. Then route through der .If small-small produces slap, (tuff luck) avoid combinations. (which seems goofy) Develop a B-tension system that works.
I wanna do this on my road bike but not sure if the mechanical version is for disc or rim brake.... Only reason I want to go 1X is cause it's flat here. No need for the second chain ring. I hardly use it
It's a single chainring so the 180 degree orientation wouldn't have mattered. The nub for correct orientation would only make a difference if the ring needed to be paired with another ring for shifting the chain.
I bought the ultegra r8000 crankset arms only, not the full crankset meaning no Shimano chainrings. How can i trace the cutting point for the Wolftooth chainring tab without the Shimano chainring as a template? Any tips?
l33america hmm, that a tough one 🤔 Unfortunately I sold my DA cranks so can’t confirm, but I wonder if you some could use the crank as a “reverse” template for the cut.... other wise just file of a little bit at a time until it fits.
Great video!!! Just what I needed on my two weeks research (so far) Need your advice 🙏🏽 ... I want to run a 1x setup conversion on my shiv 2017 for mostly flat roads (ironman, 31 kph average ) current setup mechanical 105 (11x28 / 50x34, pretty standard) On the other hand I already have sitting at my desk a (a) a set of di2 bar end shifters sw671 right and left (b) a praxis 42T 1x chainring / another 40t praxis 1x chainring (c) a cs m8000 cassette ...(d) one di2 xt m8050 rd. | I really don’t mind about weight. I just want to convert into 1x and have a much nicer shifting feeling on my tt bike (get rid of the fd as well) Specific questions (a) should I go for the 40T or 42T or even a longer one? Praxis wave offers 46T 1x (60-70us) (b) does the di2 would run something lower than 11x42 cassette? 11x40 / 11x38? Again ... no hilly roads over here... Would love to hear your advice 😌
I was mostly curious to try once. Jumping from my oval to my mates bike with round mid ride I definitely felt a difference, if it’s good or bad I can’t say. I didn’t suddenly start to break my PB’s or anything like that. In the end round looks better in my option and you have more choices so went back to round.
tbh with a 11-42 cassette and that small chainring i would consider getting the e13 trs+ cassette(9-46t) although you need an XD-driver for your freehub. But considering you are willingly to get a XT-level cassette and a XT Di2 rear mech i think that you have the money for that as well. plus quite a lot lighter. or the Sram 10-42 cassette. but would that still be a good idea? i mean the jumps are quite huge for roading. i myself use a 11-46 slx cassette on my MTB with a 32t chainring which works just fine in offroad terrain but on the flat the jumps are utterly unpleasant because im very picky with cadence
Calvin Pessl thanks for the well thought out suggestions! Would definitely love to try either of those options. But I’m very satisfied with the current set up gear wise. Don’t really have the need for 9t cog... and while I’m not very sensitive when it comes to cadence, like you pointed out, don’t really want bigger gaps if I can avoid it. That 46t would be nice on bikepacking trips in the mountains though. I think the main reason to change my current set up will be for weight saving reasons hehe. For general riding the hope 10-40t cassette would also be nice to try. But very low in the list of priorities.
I mean ifit works for you thats fine, only my suggestion. You don't have the need? Yes, it's mechanically quite unefficient but even for a very tame descender a compact 50/34 and a 11-25 is simply too slow on descents. a 44t chainring with a 11t cog is only 65km/h fast at 130rpm. compare that to 80km/h with a 9t cog. the XD-driver cassettes are quite a lot lighter than the regular shimano ones. 339g for the e13 cassette. the hope one would definitely work but if it's not on your mind srly unimportant
Calvin Pessl thanks! I love getting suggestions for all kind of setups, very appreciate the suggestions 👍 We don’t really ride many long “mellow” descents here where you need to pedal, everything is steep and twisty... no need to pedal at all haha. But again if you’re racing or do “training” rides I’m sure you have other requirements than what I have. Happy we have as many options as we have :)
Any thoughts on swapping to an XD driver, and doing g a 10-42 cluster for a higher road gear? I'm running a 1x11 (11-42 and a 44t chainring) on my Surly travelers travlers check, and have found the only complaint I have is... it spins out on descents sooner than I would like. I can climb 20% on the 44/42 no problem.
Sam Grice no, it won’t work of the box unfortunately. The mechanical XT has a different cable pull ration than the road mechanical shifters. You can get around this by using a something like a wolftooth tanpan, but it definitely adds another “link” in the system than can go wrong. Instead I would look at Shimano’s new GRX (RD-RX812) rear mech which can take up to 42t.
Hey buddy very nice video and conversion done! Hope you don't mind me tapping into your wealth of knowledge. I'm buying a new road bike with 1x and I'm also into climbing and doing hill repeats. Would XTR Di2 rear derailleur fit if I run 42 or 40 chainring with an ethirteen 9-46 cassette? I'm kinda confused if I need the Wolftooth roadlink or goat link to make sure the upper pulleys clear the 46t. I have seen examples of both road and goat link used on XTR thus the question here. Another idea I have is to get Sram etap wifli with 2 road links to make sure it hangs low enough as I have seen it done before on a shimano short cage rear d for a 46t. I only do road riding, no gravel no adventure so I think a rear d with no clutch is fine. Any help is appreciated!
Jin KX hey mate, The xtr di2 officially supports up to a 40t cassette, so I guess the it would need some kind of extension as you suggested. I have no experience with that personally so can say more than that. The XT di2 rear mech does support the 46t as long as you run it 1x which you are so that could be one solution. Road derailleurs with the road/goat links is a option of you’re keeping it strictly on the road as you say... but two road links won’t be very “stable” I would imagine and probably result in inaccurate shifting... maybe even bent hanger because increased leverage. (Just speculation though.) Personally I would go XT di2 with no link and 46t. Don’t know it that was of any help but good luck!
Hey man! Thanks for the quick reply and for taking the time to write back. Shimano's site did state the XTR as having 46t as the max capacity for a 1x setup. Here's where I saw it.. bike.shimano.com.sg/content/bike/asia/sg/en/homepage/product.P-RD-M9050-GS.html Here's the link for XT Di2 rear derailleur. bike.shimano.com.sg/content/bike/asia/sg/en/homepage/product.P-RD-M8050-GS.html It also mentioned a max front difference of 10t. Does this mean that the difference in teeth between the largest cassette cog and my chainring cannot be more than 10t? I'm unable to tell much of a difference in specs between XTR and XT so kindly shed some light here if I'm missing something. The question I have in mind is then what is the limit on the chainring size for XTR rear derailleurs on a 1x configuration? This is why I'm so glad I chanced upon your video as you have a 42t chainring which is what I was planning to get (or maybe a 40). MTB chainrings are usually smaller so I'm not sure if 46t for 1x would work for a 40 or 42t chainring.. Damn this question kept me awake! I think you've also raised a valid point on stability if two road links were used. I was all too focused on making sure that the upper pulley can clear the 46t with some proper B screw adjustment and overlooked stability and possible excessive leverage against the derailleur hanger. Thanks once again, much appreciated. You've definitely helped and I'm more inclined to think that Shimano is a safer option than etap with 2 road links.
Jin KX oh! You are correct! So it’s the exact same spec as the XT di2. Now I wanna get an XTR RD haha! The 10t limit is most likely the difference between the chain rings if you run a 2x setup. So nothing you need to worry about. XTR with 46t on 1x ring should work straight out of the box 👌
I must be too tired when I was researching on this last night. I just noticed that both XTR and XT have a max capacity of 35. 46 - 9 = 37 so this seemed to have exceeded the official capacity. I was of the opinion that this figure would only be applicable to a 2x, not sure if it applies for 1x since we don't have a small inner chainring to subtract from. I saw another roadie on RUclips using XT having a 46t cassette on 1x but he was running 38t chainring. Anyway, thanks for reading all these! =)
What doesn’t work? I’d keep all the firmware updated just to be sure, but from what I understand old firmware shouldn’t really impact the basic functions
@@ridesofjapan The shifting does not work.. When I read this.. I thought I was not able to use it.. gravelcyclist.com/bicycle-tech/tinkering-shimano-xtr-di2-road-shifters/
@@jsac826 looks like if you have the old battery and the battery firmware is really old it might not work, firmware update should fix that. I’m Currently running the old BRT2 battery with no issues.
Luke Toms its an older model Minoura work stand that I modified to take tru-axles. It’s discontinued now though. Don’t need a chain guide with a narrow-wide chainring and a clutch rear derailleur. Not for gravel at least. For rougher MTB style single track, enduro and downhill it’s probably a good idea though.
Christian Schaefer do you mean use the 9100 shifter with a mechanical XT derailleur? If so then not straight out of the box, the cable pull don’t match up. But you can use something like a wolftooth Tanpan to make it work though.
yep. First I intended to use my road shifters with the XT derailleur. using the tanpan ist a good idea in this case. then i thought one might use the original r9100 shifter and extend its shifting performance with a "wolftooth goat link" up to 42 teeth. hope this will work with the shimano 11-42 cassette. cheers
Christian Schaefer sounds like a good plan! I know the roadlink “officially” support up to 40T on the 9000/6800, but hopefully the extra range of the new 9100 will let you use 42t without issue. Would be very interested to know if it works for you. Good luck!
I just made blog posts about converting to 1x10 with Shimano 5700, including how to remove the shift paddle from the left hand shifter :) Also, I consider 2 pins to be 1 link, as a full link is an inner and outer plate. So you added 2 full links of overlap to compensate for the oval chainring.
Nice! Yeah, no left shifter needed on mechanical. The bonus with Di2 is that you can program the sifters so that you can shift on both levers... I feel spoiled hehe. I actually always wondered what the correct way to count chain "links" is, that's why in the end I made sure in the video to show how I counted them, because on most other instructions they just say "add 4 links" and never actually show it clearly... so even if I defined the "link" wrong you could still see what I meant... I hope :)
I agree that you are lucky! As a tinkering mechanic I often experiment cheap hacks on my own machines. I basically wanted to do what you can do with SRAM road shifters and mechs, but with Shimano. Here is a link to my blog: www.tobiasfeltus.com/site/blog/shimano-105-1x-drivetrain-considerations-part-1/ Also, Sheldon describes a "full link" as two pins www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain Interestingly Shimano's tech docs describe the same as "2 links". They also do use two different chain length determination methods (the other method being for cassettes with fewer than 27t large ring).
Tobias A. Feltus very cool blog posts! Like the super detailed instructions and how you explained your gear ration choices! 👌 Also, we share the same name, must be fate ;)
Jack Kanov the Shimano quick link was not available when I got the this chain. Also I never remove my chain until it’s time to change it so a quick link is not really necessary for me. (I keep one in my ride kit though)
How's is the elliptical chainring? Do you like it? Do you feel any benefit compared to the round one? I just ordered a wt 42 elliptical so hopefully your answers are positive :) I was also curious to try.
Marc Marin when I got on it I didn’t feel anything special at all. It wasn’t until I swapped bike with a mate mid-climb that I felt the difference... felt like I was pedaling square chain rings once I jumped on his round ring! So I’m definitely happy with it. If actually makes you faster though I have no idea... probably more of getting used to it kind of deal.
I've been umming and aahing about converting my Ultegra R8000 groupset on my Jamis Renegade (with 38mm tyres) to a 1x ever since this video! I see you're running a 42t Chainring x 11-42t rear cassette. Now that you've had it for a while, how have you gone with the gearing dor your hill climbing focus riding? Equivalent to a 34x34 so I imagine it's a nice sweet spot for steep days. I rarely use the 11t and 12t so figure a 42 x 11 would be perfect gear inches wise as it's the same as a 50 x 13. So I was thinking of copying your setup but with a Tampan as I'm not Di2. I would like to use the same bike for lightweight bikepacking (just like in your other vid). If I bolt on an extra 10kg to the bike in luggage I can throw on an 11-46 and the same chain should work fine. Your thoughts? Love the channel. Thanks for your tip on the Panaracer Gravelkings in 38mm... ordered a couple yesterday!
Thanks mate! Yeah, most rides we do are climbing focused... bit less long climbs now in the winter though. But it's pretty much perfect! On steeper gravel climbs when your speed is lower the 42-42 is very nice to have. I've spun out 42x11 on some downhills which is not an issue for me personally but if you really like to hammer it a sram 10-42 cassette, or even an e*13 9-46 could be an alternative, you need that XD driver though. I haven't had a chance to go bikepacking with this set up yet, did it on the 2x11 setup just before the conversion with 34-32 gearing and it was pretty much fine on a 10km climb up to ~1100m avg 7-8%. 42-42 would only have made it more enjoyable I think :) Only thing I would do in your case is to size the chain for the bigger 46T cassette. Using the same length on the smaller 42T wouldn't be a problem. Good luck!
Thanks for the reply! Bike came with a Shimano setup - and the cost for that 10t was beyond 'reasonable' for me (I think we're in the same boat). It's a pity that the majority of gravel bikes are stocked with old school Compact 34/50 cranksets. Even on a relatively conservative 35mm larger diameter tyre, that 50x11 is pretty much unusable even for someone with above average fitness etc. Have you had any issues with adjusting to the larger gaps? I mean... TT riders are starting to use 1x and if anyone would be super knit-picky about cadence it would be them?! Have 1x on all my mountain bikes but a lot more body language etc means tight cadence isn't an issue.
While I'm not that sensitive to cadence, in a perfect world I would have like to have had the 14T cog in there. The jump between 13T and 15T is the only situation where it took me a few rides to get to get used to. If I ever where to race or do a TT (which I'm not) I would just slap a "normal" road cassette on there. like a 11-28 or the new Ultegra 11-34T would be good I reckon depending on terrain. Not the type of riding I'm doing though, no power meters or TSS scores in my arsenal ;)
Pulled the trigger! Same setup as you + Tanpan for mechanical. 42 x 37 = 34 x 32.5 (So I’ll have that nice juicy 42 x 42 for when I load up ~10kg for light touring). 42 x 11 = 50 x 13 (never used the 50 x 11/12 with 35-38mm tyres) Came across this article in Bicycling Magazine who went the same route, except with a dropper! Toyed with the idea but the dropper lever solutions out there (except for hacking a brifter) didn't satisfy me. They mention though that you can shift up + shift down as an alternative. Has got me thinking... ha. www.bicyclingaustralia.com.au/news/testing-the-boundaries-the-perfect-allround-bike
The 42X42 feels a bit noisier Maybe, but nothing crazy at all. With a well maintained drivetrain I wouldn’t think about it riding next to my 2x riding mates
I own the sunrace csmx8 11-46 and been using it for bike packing. No problem but a bit noisier than Shimano and not quite as crisp shifting. Good value for money though. Sorry have no experience with the r3000 crank.
Geoff Semon That would have been a good solutions as well. I wanted the clutch and the shadow technology for the rougher stuff we’ve started riding lately, a bit more security. If it would been only for road riding and light gravel, the roadlink would have been an excellent solution 👍
Thanks for the reply. I have a friend who is looking at doing something like this for his wife bike but it will just be used for on the road so I'm going to forward your video to him for useful info. I'm just in the process of changing our tandem from a triple to a double chainring gearing but I'll be using eTap WiFli rear derailleur and a goat link 11
Anthony HT good question. The chainring is offset, don’t know the exact measurements but it should end up in the middle of the small and big chainring on a 2x crank. So the chain will not be as tightly angled as it would on 2x big-big combination. On this Bokeh out on the road, I felt that chain line was worse on the 11t than on the 42t. Nothing to worry about however.
Good to know. I would like to do the 1by conversion on my bike but the chainring would have to be on the inside of the crank so that the chain line would be appropriate, and that probably means changing the Ultegra crank.
"flats" here in FL USA. Been thinking 1x, oval also, yet with 53t, more aero, more lightwgt....for triathlons. Appreciate seeing this as good to understand what's involved. Curious as to why u chose "Wolf-Tooth" and not another brand; price alone? +Rides of Japan
al karg at the time I made this conversion I could not find any brand (including wolftooth) that made any narrow-wide rings for the 9100 crank, I contacted them and they told me I could fit their chainrings with the modification I did in the video. They also had the oval option available that I’ve been curious of trying for a long time, so it was a simple choice. I’m sure other brands would work just as good though. Absolute black come to mind as a good alternative.
adamcobban sorry not on video, but that was removed as well when the crank was taken off. As it this was a threaded BB it was easy to remove and access the di2 junction. If it had been a pressfit BB I would most likely just taped the connector and push it into the frame. Might have put some zip-ties around it to keep it from rattling.
Philip Canete without the FD an only one “normal” chainring you would have a lot of dropped chains. The chainring on 2x system are designed to move the chain between the rings, a narrow-wide chainring is designed to secure the chain so it doesn’t drop. You could use a “normal” chainring with chain guide however. But then you might as well the get the narrow-wide ring instead.
Oscar Mejia sorry don’t know if that is possible or not. But I guess that you probably would need to invest in a lot of new components to get that to work.
Hey, I'm a bit stupid so forgive me for asking but does your 1x ratio of 42/42 give you an easier climbing ratio than the 34/32 on your 2x set-up? And if so did you do this for a reason?
Yes it will be easier than 34/32... not a humongous difference, but when I’m fully loaded for bike packing I take anything I can :) Not the only reason though, I dig the simplicity, combined with di2 get a few extra shifting options. I also like the esthetics... of course it’s all in eye of the beholder.
@@ridesofjapan Thanks for the swift reply. I was actually watching your Easton crank and KMC chain video (for the third time!) when I was alerted. Love your bike build video and the one where you display every item and weigh it. Nicely paced, with good graphics backing up the vocal. Please let us know if you manage to drop any more weight.
Medium Rick not straight out of the box. The cable pull is different between mechanical road 11spd shifters and 11spd MTB derailleurs. You can get around that though with some like a wolf tooth tanpan: amzn.to/2H4QBW8
@@ridesofjapan You forgot to weigh the deleted front derailluer cable, and whatever housing it had. You probably DID save a couple grams... even with the extra two chain links. SIS housing is suprisingly heavy for what it is. Edit: OOF, you are Di2... well, you also saved E tube from front shifter to junction and junction to front mech... whatever that wire run weighed.
TheAshKicker to run a single chainring I would recommend a rear mech with a clutch to keep that chain in check. I don’t if there are any 10speed derailleurs that has that? And mixing mechanical road shifters with MTB derailleurs might also be a problem as they have different cable pull ratios (I don’t know if that is the case with 10speed however.)
breathestrongcycling should work no problem as long as it’s the di2 E-TUBE protocol. I think Shimano has some kind of compatibility chart that could be worth researching just to be safe
Lo he probado y no trabaja correctamente la cadena porque el plato no va centrado con los piñones. Si lo pones en el lugar del plato grande va muy cruzada (demasiado) y en el pequeño igual.
Stress FreeLou yes no problem, all di2 components are compatible with each other. (with the one exception that you can’t mix MTB and road derailleurs, but that is nothing you need to worry about with a 1x setup)
Scooby what do you mean? Changing them for 1x? As the shifter are di2 there no need to change sifters. You can program them to shift however you want as well with Shimano di2 e-tube app.
Edgar Studillo no, in case of Wolf Tooth they make chainrings for Shimano road cranks down to 36T. Other brands might make smaller though. 42T was a good balance for me and the type of rides I do.
yeah I don't get it either. an 11-34 would give the same bottom gear. better high gears(you are GONNA spin out a 42-11 on slight descents, or with heavy tailwind), smaller steps inbetween and weigh basically the same. Isn't it just a strict downgrade? This 1x fad is really strange to me
I'm converting my road bike to 1x. With 2x, I rarely use the small cogs. Too much cross chaining/redundant gearing when on the 34t and too tall to push anywhere but downhill on the 50t. With 38t and a slight cassette change, I have the same climbing gears, and my top end is 94gi, which is plenty. I'm a clyde, so on downhills, I usually coast anyway.
You you think you'll cross chain less with a 1x? ok. makes little sense to me but maybe in your case the gears work out that way. I ran 1x on two bikes for a year. Upgraded both to 2x and I'm happy with it.no extra weight since you don't need a dinnerplate-sized cassette, and front mechs have always been adjustment and trouble-free for me). Had an adventure bike with a 1x 38t front cog and I switched over to a 40/28 double and it's great
You had a super-efficient 2x drivetrain and made a heavier, more expensive 1x drivetrain with the inefficiency of cross-chaining. I see how it can be done but I certainly can't recommend that.
Rides of Japan Sorry. I mean i heard somewhere the di2 electronic chose workable gears automatically. It wont go bigest cassette with big ring right. So out of 22 gears only 12 is actual workable gears right?
aezif dhom ah I see what you mean. That occurs when you configure your ETUBE app with road derailleurs and road cranks like 50/34. In this case as I use a MTB rear derailleur the ETUBE switched to “MTB” mode and you don’t have those settings. But yes, You can use all gears, obviously only 11 gears as I’m using a single front ring :)
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One of the best bike video blog I have ever seen - informative, full of details, with nice illustrative. As i'm also looking to have my gravel bike set up in 1x Di2 configuration, this should be the best reference. Thank you and keep up great work!
Thanks mate! Glad someone can use it as a reference.
I ordered a narrow wide chainring from China to make an one by drivetrain and it arrived in the middle of this video lol! I can't wait to get home and install it. Hope it stops the problem of my chain dropping all the time with the normal index chain which the teeth are smaller
Thank you so much!! An offset oval chainring is exactly what I was looking for for my 1x conversion. Wolf Tooth seems to be the only brand who makes offset ones to fit the chainline on an 2x road crank.
NIce setup, very clean looking.
Just in the process of converting my 52/36 oval crank to a single 52t oval and changing the cassette from 11-28 to 11-36. Second bike I've set up like this so I'm confident about the gear ratios I've chosen. First time I did the conversion I went with mechainical mountain rear derailleur but this time its all mechanical and road derailleur. Absolutely love the setup so simple, I'm considering setting my race bike up as a single.
Stephen Connor nice! Ultegra medium cage for the 36t or are you getting a roadlink?
Rides of Japan roadlink on 6800 short cage. Previously ran 11-34 with 9speed MTN rd but swapped that for tiagra 4700 GS. Worked well without narrow wide chainring. Will be using standard oval (non ramped) chainring again but will change the P spring tension setting in the body of the rear derailleur. Not as effective as clutch mech but sufficient for road use.
Always mindblowing going back to your videos and finding great hacks like the chain hook. Need to make one myself!
Great video. Thanks for not wasting time on how to remove and install basics that you covered in other videos.
this is tottaly amazing conversion. Great work
Nicely done! Would like a follow-up review after few rides
Sick build! I appreciate your tidy work, keep it up! *subscribed* Cheers from germany
A couple years ago I took my old Giant TCR 0, 2003 model and put a XT rear derailleur on it with a 11x40 and put a Wolf Tooth 50t wide-narrow up front. I had to install a Wolf Tooth Tanpan so the shifting would work with the road shifters.
Wick Werks makes chain rings that have the tap ground off so they fit the 4 arm shimano.
Thank you for the excellent tutorial!
Exactly what i need. Thank you so much;)
I run a wolf tooth road link on my 6770 Di2, and I switched out the medium cage for a long cage from a mechanical RD-6700... not sure if it would accommodate a 42, but it handles a 36 perfectly. I think I could go up to 40 comfortably. Saved me the extra money on buying a new RD. I'm still up 2 chainrings up front though :-)
Brilliant, looks good, will look forward to a durability update.
Thanks! Yeah, currently recovering from being hit by taxi (while walking) but hopefully I can give an update on durability etc as I get some distance on it.
Man... Get well soon!
Hope you have a speedy recovery, man :D
Your videos are great, very useful information, thank you
Happy to hear that, thanks mate!
@@ridesofjapan your experience inspired me to build my own custom gravel bike on the Cannondale Slate's platform. So, a frame is on the way from Australia, some parts are going from England and Germany, some special kits will be sent from USA. It's very interesting to do this)
@@Андрей-в1г8я Awesome! Nothing more fun than to build up your own bike! Good luck!
I bet you made that "mistake" on purpose to shave an extra half gram!
How fast can you go down hill? Nice job but a 42 up front will only work in a flat area like Florida.
Damn, and here I’ve been riding in the mountains for 3 years... wish I knew it wouldn’t work before I converted 😉
I have a 1x with 38t chain ring and I still never use the 11t cog. On gravel downhills I don't pedal beyond 40 kph, just coast and try to stay alive.
Great video. Old spokes are good for making chain hooks ✌🏼
Do these Wolf tooth chainrings require the special 10mm bolts from wolf tooth? Looks like the chainring has threads on it which is not like most.
I'm looking to go one by on my new bike , it's a rim brake bike will GRX derailleurs work no problem with Ultegra di2 shifters
Great work. What did you do with the left shifter controls? How did you reprogram them?
Check this video, ruclips.net/video/TaaVWHOltUc/видео.html
cheers!
I know I am a little late to the game on this video so I checked the comments and did see any about weighing the the chainring AFTER the tabs were cut off 😀
JBratt my weight weenie game has evolved since this video ;)
Rides of Japan thanks for the videos👍
"Accidentally" cuts off a second tab and, surprise surprise, lost 3 grams in the process! ;)
The old school guys remember the old straight blocks 42t -11-21 Like to see inch conversion.
Hey man, what are your thoughts on Sram vs. Shimano? What's your reason for choosing one over the other (Engineering, Price, etc.)?
Been a Di2 user since 2012, I'm a hardcore shimano fanboy. Like the Shimano ergonomics better (Especially the new GRX di2 levers which I don't own unfortunately), mineral oil instead of DOT, only one battery to worry about that I only charge max 2 times/year.
The only thing that tempts me about SRAM is 12speed... but hopefully that will change this year.
(Again, totally subjective, full fanboy, no one should base their choice base on my opinion here hehe)
@@ridesofjapan thanks!
Nice work....I would of put one more link in it.....otherwise pretty cool.....need weight credit for cable and housing n if you change out the shifter/brake for just a brake.....both my mtbs are 1x....one xtr, one eagle....road is 2x but I'm a fan....its the future for many roadies - they just don't wanna know it yet.
+Cliff Clermont thanks mate! I’ll keep that in mind for the next chain or if I run into any problem shifting... first time on 1x for me so still a lot to learn.
Did not change anything with the shifters. Instead I configured both left end right to shift the same way, that way I can shift one-handed while taking photos (just asking for an accident to happen hehe)
I also think we’ll see more of this in the future. But I recognize there are strong points against it for real racers. I’m sure technology will evolve though, seeing Aqua Blue Sport on the 1x Strada next year will be interesting.
My gravel/adventure/road - jack of all things is my main commuting choice and since I don't climb much I am finding the whole front derailleur thing extremely annoying. I have a Shimano Sora and while the rear derailleur is fluid yet snappy - the front is a chore. I don't know if I got a bad one or if Sora is just shy of being on the worthy list of drive train to use. Anyway, I am considering taking off the front derailleur, taking off the never used small ring and sticking with the large ring. I don't know off the top of my head but I believe it is a 52t ring and the thing that has been holding me back on going with a proper 1x setup is I had seen the mtb 1x setups and thought to myself that I would hamster wheel myself to death with that small of a front ring. Thank God someone out there has been doing the thinking for me and now I see what is possible. I can have my 1x and not have to eat it too! So, I just wonder if the 2x is still the future for roadies or if it's now - for us commuties I don't care for it, but can see it's benefits!
How come you added 4 links to the chain when sizing? I thought you should only add 2? According to the park tool video anyway.
Shimano instructions for chain, (modern shadow geometry), outside der, big and big, plus two links. Install through der, shift to small-small (or 9 and secondary for di2) and extend B tension to take out slack. One link is one inner and one outer. Sram is b tension pre-set in middle travel, big-big outside der, plus one inch, plus power link. Then route through der .If small-small produces slap, (tuff luck) avoid combinations. (which seems goofy) Develop a B-tension system that works.
I wanna do this on my road bike but not sure if the mechanical version is for disc or rim brake.... Only reason I want to go 1X is cause it's flat here. No need for the second chain ring. I hardly use it
It's a single chainring so the 180 degree orientation wouldn't have mattered. The nub for correct orientation would only make a difference if the ring needed to be paired with another ring for shifting the chain.
Good job! A question... How does the XT Shimano rear derailleur feel with the road bike shifters?
Exactly the same as it’s Di2 :)
I bought the ultegra r8000 crankset arms only, not the full crankset meaning no Shimano chainrings. How can i trace the cutting point for the Wolftooth chainring tab without the Shimano chainring as a template? Any tips?
l33america hmm, that a tough one 🤔
Unfortunately I sold my DA cranks so can’t confirm, but I wonder if you some could use the crank as a “reverse” template for the cut.... other wise just file of a little bit at a time until it fits.
Great video!!! Just what I needed on my two weeks research (so far) Need your advice 🙏🏽 ... I want to run a 1x setup conversion on my shiv 2017 for mostly flat roads (ironman, 31 kph average ) current setup mechanical 105 (11x28 / 50x34, pretty standard) On the other hand I already have sitting at my desk a (a) a set of di2 bar end shifters sw671 right and left (b) a praxis 42T 1x chainring / another 40t praxis 1x chainring (c) a cs m8000 cassette ...(d) one di2 xt m8050 rd. | I really don’t mind about weight. I just want to convert into 1x and have a much nicer shifting feeling on my tt bike (get rid of the fd as well) Specific questions (a) should I go for the 40T or 42T or even a longer one? Praxis wave offers 46T 1x (60-70us) (b) does the di2 would run something lower than 11x42 cassette? 11x40 / 11x38? Again ... no hilly roads over here... Would love to hear your advice 😌
Do you know if the dura ace or ultegra di2 duals can use whit XT di2 derailleur??
I see that you don't have an oval chainring on more recent videos. Was there not much of a benefit compared to a round ring?
I was mostly curious to try once. Jumping from my oval to my mates bike with round mid ride I definitely felt a difference, if it’s good or bad I can’t say. I didn’t suddenly start to break my PB’s or anything like that.
In the end round looks better in my option and you have more choices so went back to round.
tbh with a 11-42 cassette and that small chainring i would consider getting the e13 trs+ cassette(9-46t) although you need an XD-driver for your freehub. But considering you are willingly to get a XT-level cassette and a XT Di2 rear mech i think that you have the money for that as well. plus quite a lot lighter. or the Sram 10-42 cassette. but would that still be a good idea? i mean the jumps are quite huge for roading. i myself use a 11-46 slx cassette on my MTB with a 32t chainring which works just fine in offroad terrain but on the flat the jumps are utterly unpleasant because im very picky with cadence
Calvin Pessl thanks for the well thought out suggestions! Would definitely love to try either of those options. But I’m very satisfied with the current set up gear wise. Don’t really have the need for 9t cog... and while I’m not very sensitive when it comes to cadence, like you pointed out, don’t really want bigger gaps if I can avoid it. That 46t would be nice on bikepacking trips in the mountains though.
I think the main reason to change my current set up will be for weight saving reasons hehe.
For general riding the hope 10-40t cassette would also be nice to try. But very low in the list of priorities.
I mean ifit works for you thats fine, only my suggestion. You don't have the need? Yes, it's mechanically quite unefficient but even for a very tame descender a compact 50/34 and a 11-25 is simply too slow on descents. a 44t chainring with a 11t cog is only 65km/h fast at 130rpm. compare that to 80km/h with a 9t cog.
the XD-driver cassettes are quite a lot lighter than the regular shimano ones. 339g for the e13 cassette.
the hope one would definitely work but if it's not on your mind srly unimportant
Calvin Pessl thanks! I love getting suggestions for all kind of setups, very appreciate the suggestions 👍
We don’t really ride many long “mellow” descents here where you need to pedal, everything is steep and twisty... no need to pedal at all haha.
But again if you’re racing or do “training” rides I’m sure you have other requirements than what I have.
Happy we have as many options as we have :)
no way i would ride that chainring. not enough material to be safe. you got big balls
Any thoughts on swapping to an XD driver, and doing g a 10-42 cluster for a higher road gear?
I'm running a 1x11 (11-42 and a 44t chainring) on my Surly travelers travlers check, and have found the only complaint I have is... it spins out on descents sooner than I would like. I can climb 20% on the 44/42 no problem.
Went xd on my Extralite’s first... couldn’t stand the noisy sram cassette. Don’t really need the 10t personally anyway.
Nice content , I wish to transform my tcr 2*11 to 1*11 but it's mechanic groupset. Do you know if it's possible ? (Grx or stuff for mtb)
Hey there, love the vids mate! Question will a xt rear mechanical derailleur work with ultegra mechanical shifters on a 11-42 cassette ? Cheers mate👍
Sam Grice no, it won’t work of the box unfortunately. The mechanical XT has a different cable pull ration than the road mechanical shifters.
You can get around this by using a something like a wolftooth tanpan, but it definitely adds another “link” in the system than can go wrong.
Instead I would look at Shimano’s new GRX (RD-RX812) rear mech which can take up to 42t.
Rides of Japan awesome! Thanks heaps for your reply🙏🏻 will buy one of those.
Thank you for inspiration!
could you use an existing 32,36,39 chainring with the updated wolf tooth bolts?
Hey buddy very nice video and conversion done!
Hope you don't mind me tapping into your wealth of knowledge. I'm buying a new road bike with 1x and I'm also into climbing and doing hill repeats.
Would XTR Di2 rear derailleur fit if I run 42 or 40 chainring with an ethirteen 9-46 cassette?
I'm kinda confused if I need the Wolftooth roadlink or goat link to make sure the upper pulleys clear the 46t.
I have seen examples of both road and goat link used on XTR thus the question here.
Another idea I have is to get Sram etap wifli with 2 road links to make sure it hangs low enough as I have seen it done before on a shimano short cage rear d for a 46t. I only do road riding, no gravel no adventure so I think a rear d with no clutch is fine.
Any help is appreciated!
Jin KX hey mate,
The xtr di2 officially supports up to a 40t cassette, so I guess the it would need some kind of extension as you suggested. I have no experience with that personally so can say more than that.
The XT di2 rear mech does support the 46t as long as you run it 1x which you are so that could be one solution.
Road derailleurs with the road/goat links is a option of you’re keeping it strictly on the road as you say... but two road links won’t be very “stable” I would imagine and probably result in inaccurate shifting... maybe even bent hanger because increased leverage. (Just speculation though.)
Personally I would go XT di2 with no link and 46t.
Don’t know it that was of any help but good luck!
Hey man! Thanks for the quick reply and for taking the time to write back.
Shimano's site did state the XTR as having 46t as the max capacity for a 1x setup. Here's where I saw it..
bike.shimano.com.sg/content/bike/asia/sg/en/homepage/product.P-RD-M9050-GS.html
Here's the link for XT Di2 rear derailleur.
bike.shimano.com.sg/content/bike/asia/sg/en/homepage/product.P-RD-M8050-GS.html
It also mentioned a max front difference of 10t. Does this mean that the difference in teeth between the largest cassette cog and my chainring cannot be more than 10t? I'm unable to tell much of a difference in specs between XTR and XT so kindly shed some light here if I'm missing something.
The question I have in mind is then what is the limit on the chainring size for XTR rear derailleurs on a 1x configuration? This is why I'm so glad I chanced upon your video as you have a 42t chainring which is what I was planning to get (or maybe a 40). MTB chainrings are usually smaller so I'm not sure if 46t for 1x would work for a 40 or 42t chainring.. Damn this question kept me awake!
I think you've also raised a valid point on stability if two road links were used. I was all too focused on making sure that the upper pulley can clear the 46t with some proper B screw adjustment and overlooked stability and possible excessive leverage against the derailleur hanger.
Thanks once again, much appreciated. You've definitely helped and I'm more inclined to think that Shimano is a safer option than etap with 2 road links.
Jin KX oh! You are correct! So it’s the exact same spec as the XT di2.
Now I wanna get an XTR RD haha!
The 10t limit is most likely the difference between the chain rings if you run a 2x setup. So nothing you need to worry about.
XTR with 46t on 1x ring should work straight out of the box 👌
I must be too tired when I was researching on this last night. I just noticed that both XTR and XT have a max capacity of 35.
46 - 9 = 37 so this seemed to have exceeded the official capacity. I was of the opinion that this figure would only be applicable to a 2x, not sure if it applies for 1x since we don't have a small inner chainring to subtract from.
I saw another roadie on RUclips using XT having a 46t cassette on 1x but he was running 38t chainring.
Anyway, thanks for reading all these! =)
Oh you actually replied me while I was replying to your first reply. Thanks so much once again.
Does anyone know if you need the Wolftooth Bolts to attach it to a GRX crank?
What does the 1X chain line end up at with the Dura Ace 9100 crankset? Thanks
Would this work with a XTR 9050 Di2 Rear Derailleur? Thanks!
Yes it would.
@@ridesofjapan Do I have to update the firmware? I doesn't seem to work now.
What doesn’t work?
I’d keep all the firmware updated just to be sure, but from what I understand old firmware shouldn’t really impact the basic functions
@@ridesofjapan The shifting does not work.. When I read this.. I thought I was not able to use it.. gravelcyclist.com/bicycle-tech/tinkering-shimano-xtr-di2-road-shifters/
@@jsac826 looks like if you have the old battery and the battery firmware is really old it might not work, firmware update should fix that.
I’m Currently running the old BRT2 battery with no issues.
Hi what workstand are you using nice job on the conversion what about a chain guide.
Luke Toms its an older model Minoura work stand that I modified to take tru-axles. It’s discontinued now though.
Don’t need a chain guide with a narrow-wide chainring and a clutch rear derailleur. Not for gravel at least. For rougher MTB style single track, enduro and downhill it’s probably a good idea though.
Nice work! Does this also work for mechanical dura ace r9100 shifter???
Christian Schaefer do you mean use the 9100 shifter with a mechanical XT derailleur? If so then not straight out of the box, the cable pull don’t match up. But you can use something like a wolftooth Tanpan to make it work though.
yep. First I intended to use my road shifters with the XT derailleur. using the tanpan ist a good idea in this case. then i thought one might use the original r9100 shifter and extend its shifting performance with a "wolftooth goat link" up to 42 teeth. hope this will work with the shimano 11-42 cassette. cheers
Christian Schaefer sounds like a good plan! I know the roadlink “officially” support up to 40T on the 9000/6800, but hopefully the extra range of the new 9100 will let you use 42t without issue.
Would be very interested to know if it works for you. Good luck!
I just made blog posts about converting to 1x10 with Shimano 5700, including how to remove the shift paddle from the left hand shifter :)
Also, I consider 2 pins to be 1 link, as a full link is an inner and outer plate. So you added 2 full links of overlap to compensate for the oval chainring.
Nice! Yeah, no left shifter needed on mechanical. The bonus with Di2 is that you can program the sifters so that you can shift on both levers... I feel spoiled hehe.
I actually always wondered what the correct way to count chain "links" is, that's why in the end I made sure in the video to show how I counted them, because on most other instructions they just say "add 4 links" and never actually show it clearly... so even if I defined the "link" wrong you could still see what I meant... I hope :)
I agree that you are lucky! As a tinkering mechanic I often experiment cheap hacks on my own machines. I basically wanted to do what you can do with SRAM road shifters and mechs, but with Shimano. Here is a link to my blog:
www.tobiasfeltus.com/site/blog/shimano-105-1x-drivetrain-considerations-part-1/
Also, Sheldon describes a "full link" as two pins www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain
Interestingly Shimano's tech docs describe the same as "2 links". They also do use two different chain length determination methods (the other method being for cassettes with fewer than 27t large ring).
Tobias A. Feltus very cool blog posts! Like the super detailed instructions and how you explained your gear ration choices! 👌
Also, we share the same name, must be fate ;)
Rides of Japan I have only ever met one other Tobias. Really? This is exciting.
Rides of Japan great video! So shifting performance is solid and you can then program “etap” style shifting?
why do you not use a quick link?
Jack Kanov the Shimano quick link was not available when I got the this chain. Also I never remove my chain until it’s time to change it so a quick link is not really necessary for me. (I keep one in my ride kit though)
Then how do you clean your chain?
Like this: ruclips.net/video/I-wNK3GOzE4/видео.html
Or like this ruclips.net/video/wDqXBmHtl6k/видео.html
😬
Right on, that's essentially the GCN method. I have a broken arm and just binging on cycling vids until I can remount and ride again. Ride on.
Jack Kanov ouch! Heal up fast mate!
How's is the elliptical chainring? Do you like it? Do you feel any benefit compared to the round one? I just ordered a wt 42 elliptical so hopefully your answers are positive :) I was also curious to try.
Marc Marin when I got on it I didn’t feel anything special at all. It wasn’t until I swapped bike with a mate mid-climb that I felt the difference... felt like I was pedaling square chain rings once I jumped on his round ring! So I’m definitely happy with it. If actually makes you faster though I have no idea... probably more of getting used to it kind of deal.
Rides of Japan Cool! Will let you know when I try mine for the first time :)
I've been umming and aahing about converting my Ultegra R8000 groupset on my Jamis Renegade (with 38mm tyres) to a 1x ever since this video!
I see you're running a 42t Chainring x 11-42t rear cassette. Now that you've had it for a while, how have you gone with the gearing dor your hill climbing focus riding? Equivalent to a 34x34 so I imagine it's a nice sweet spot for steep days.
I rarely use the 11t and 12t so figure a 42 x 11 would be perfect gear inches wise as it's the same as a 50 x 13. So I was thinking of copying your setup but with a Tampan as I'm not Di2.
I would like to use the same bike for lightweight bikepacking (just like in your other vid). If I bolt on an extra 10kg to the bike in luggage I can throw on an 11-46 and the same chain should work fine. Your thoughts?
Love the channel. Thanks for your tip on the Panaracer Gravelkings in 38mm... ordered a couple yesterday!
Thanks mate!
Yeah, most rides we do are climbing focused... bit less long climbs now in the winter though. But it's pretty much perfect! On steeper gravel climbs when your speed is lower the 42-42 is very nice to have. I've spun out 42x11 on some downhills which is not an issue for me personally but if you really like to hammer it a sram 10-42 cassette, or even an e*13 9-46 could be an alternative, you need that XD driver though.
I haven't had a chance to go bikepacking with this set up yet, did it on the 2x11 setup just before the conversion with 34-32 gearing and it was pretty much fine on a 10km climb up to ~1100m avg 7-8%. 42-42 would only have made it more enjoyable I think :)
Only thing I would do in your case is to size the chain for the bigger 46T cassette. Using the same length on the smaller 42T wouldn't be a problem. Good luck!
Thanks for the reply! Bike came with a Shimano setup - and the cost for that 10t was beyond 'reasonable' for me (I think we're in the same boat).
It's a pity that the majority of gravel bikes are stocked with old school Compact 34/50 cranksets. Even on a relatively conservative 35mm larger diameter tyre, that 50x11 is pretty much unusable even for someone with above average fitness etc.
Have you had any issues with adjusting to the larger gaps? I mean... TT riders are starting to use 1x and if anyone would be super knit-picky about cadence it would be them?!
Have 1x on all my mountain bikes but a lot more body language etc means tight cadence isn't an issue.
While I'm not that sensitive to cadence, in a perfect world I would have like to have had the 14T cog in there. The jump between 13T and 15T is the only situation where it took me a few rides to get to get used to.
If I ever where to race or do a TT (which I'm not) I would just slap a "normal" road cassette on there. like a 11-28 or the new Ultegra 11-34T would be good I reckon depending on terrain.
Not the type of riding I'm doing though, no power meters or TSS scores in my arsenal ;)
Pulled the trigger! Same setup as you + Tanpan for mechanical.
42 x 37 = 34 x 32.5 (So I’ll have that nice juicy 42 x 42 for when I load up ~10kg for light touring).
42 x 11 = 50 x 13 (never used the 50 x 11/12 with 35-38mm tyres)
Came across this article in Bicycling Magazine who went the same route, except with a dropper! Toyed with the idea but the dropper lever solutions out there (except for hacking a brifter) didn't satisfy me. They mention though that you can shift up + shift down as an alternative. Has got me thinking... ha.
www.bicyclingaustralia.com.au/news/testing-the-boundaries-the-perfect-allround-bike
Leonard Lieu nice one! Haven’t thought about using a dropper post, di2 battery in the seatpost is a problem :p would be fun to try though
What about the noise? Is the 1x setup noticeable noiser than the Classic 2x?
The 42X42 feels a bit noisier Maybe, but nothing crazy at all. With a well maintained drivetrain I wouldn’t think about it riding next to my 2x riding mates
Nice! Maybe i will try a similar setup with Ultegra RX and Wolftooth
Hi, need some advice.. Have u considered SunRace CSMX8 419g? And the Wolftooth chainring, will it work with R3000 crank arm? Thank you.
I own the sunrace csmx8 11-46 and been using it for bike packing. No problem but a bit noisier than Shimano and not quite as crisp shifting. Good value for money though.
Sorry have no experience with the r3000 crank.
Very good job guy!!!!!!!interesting
Add a dropper and you can ride megavalanche on that bike.
Do you know if your setup would work with an 46T tooth chainring up front?
No problem, just need a longer chain
@@ridesofjapan do you think an 114 link chain will be long enough?
What kind of bike stand do you have?
just wondering why you didn't keep the original derailleur and use a wolf tooth roadlink??
Geoff Semon That would have been a good solutions as well. I wanted the clutch and the shadow technology for the rougher stuff we’ve started riding lately, a bit more security.
If it would been only for road riding and light gravel, the roadlink would have been an excellent solution 👍
Thanks for the reply. I have a friend who is looking at doing something like this for his wife bike but it will just be used for on the road so I'm going to forward your video to him for useful info. I'm just in the process of changing our tandem from a triple to a double chainring gearing but I'll be using eTap WiFli rear derailleur and a goat link 11
Geoff Semon yeah, for road only a roadlink will be a much cheaper alternative 👍 good luck to both you and your friend.
How is the chain line affected? Isn't the chain a bit crossed when you are on the 42t rear sprocket?
Anthony HT good question. The chainring is offset, don’t know the exact measurements but it should end up in the middle of the small and big chainring on a 2x crank. So the chain will not be as tightly angled as it would on 2x big-big combination.
On this Bokeh out on the road, I felt that chain line was worse on the 11t than on the 42t. Nothing to worry about however.
Good to know. I would like to do the 1by conversion on my bike but the chainring would have to be on the inside of the crank so that the chain line would be appropriate, and that probably means changing the Ultegra crank.
Do you change the LH shifter? Or do you keep it as is without any shift function?
Check this: ruclips.net/video/TaaVWHOltUc/видео.html
"flats" here in FL USA. Been thinking 1x, oval also, yet with 53t, more aero, more lightwgt....for triathlons. Appreciate seeing this as good to understand what's involved.
Curious as to why u chose "Wolf-Tooth" and not another brand; price alone? +Rides of Japan
al karg at the time I made this conversion I could not find any brand (including wolftooth) that made any narrow-wide rings for the 9100 crank, I contacted them and they told me I could fit their chainrings with the modification I did in the video. They also had the oval option available that I’ve been curious of trying for a long time, so it was a simple choice. I’m sure other brands would work just as good though. Absolute black come to mind as a good alternative.
Çok güzel Anlatmış.. Tebrikler..
Do you really need a derailleur with a clutch or is the narrow wide change ring alone enough?
If it’s only on smooth tarmac you might be able to get away with it, but I wouldn’t not recommend it.
Hi. What did you do with the cabling for the FD? Thanks
adamcobban sorry not on video, but that was removed as well when the crank was taken off.
As it this was a threaded BB it was easy to remove and access the di2 junction.
If it had been a pressfit BB I would most likely just taped the connector and push it into the frame. Might have put some zip-ties around it to keep it from rattling.
Thanks 👍
Just wondering would it still be the same as just removing the fd and the 2nd/smsller chainring?
Philip Canete without the FD an only one “normal” chainring you would have a lot of dropped chains. The chainring on 2x system are designed to move the chain between the rings, a narrow-wide chainring is designed to secure the chain so it doesn’t drop.
You could use a “normal” chainring with chain guide however. But then you might as well the get the narrow-wide ring instead.
Do you know if this can be done with a Tiagra system 2x10 on a TREK Checkpoint 4?
Oscar Mejia sorry don’t know if that is possible or not.
But I guess that you probably would need to invest in a lot of new components to get that to work.
Such neat-looking with 1x
do you keep the same shimano STI shifters? if so does the left work properly without a gear cable?
It’s Di2 so I have configured to shift the same on both shifters.
Rides of Japan lol oh right I forgot I’m still living in the Stone Age
Nice footage
Hey, I'm a bit stupid so forgive me for asking but does your 1x ratio of 42/42 give you an easier climbing ratio than the 34/32 on your 2x set-up? And if so did you do this for a reason?
Yes it will be easier than 34/32... not a humongous difference, but when I’m fully loaded for bike packing I take anything I can :)
Not the only reason though, I dig the simplicity, combined with di2 get a few extra shifting options. I also like the esthetics... of course it’s all in eye of the beholder.
@@ridesofjapan Thanks for the swift reply. I was actually watching your Easton crank and KMC chain video (for the third time!) when I was alerted.
Love your bike build video and the one where you display every item and weigh it. Nicely paced, with good graphics backing up the vocal. Please let us know if you manage to drop any more weight.
Darren Halford cheers mate! Will do 👍
Would this conversion work equally well on mechanical 11 Spd DA???
Medium Rick not straight out of the box. The cable pull is different between mechanical road 11spd shifters and 11spd MTB derailleurs.
You can get around that though with some like a wolf tooth tanpan:
amzn.to/2H4QBW8
Loved the conversion, can you tell me how much weight it saved?
Fastest milkman 3:43 😜 +3g
@@ridesofjapan
You forgot to weigh the deleted front derailluer cable, and whatever housing it had.
You probably DID save a couple grams... even with the extra two chain links.
SIS housing is suprisingly heavy for what it is.
Edit: OOF, you are Di2... well, you also saved E tube from front shifter to junction and junction to front mech... whatever that wire run weighed.
Will this work with Tiagra Shifter? 10 sp cassette & mech?
TheAshKicker to run a single chainring I would recommend a rear mech with a clutch to keep that chain in check.
I don’t if there are any 10speed derailleurs that has that?
And mixing mechanical road shifters with MTB derailleurs might also be a problem as they have different cable pull ratios (I don’t know if that is the case with 10speed however.)
Rides of Japan got it! Thanks
Does anyone know if shimano Alfine 11 di2 shifters would work? They are already a 1x....
breathestrongcycling should work no problem as long as it’s the di2 E-TUBE protocol. I think Shimano has some kind of compatibility chart that could be worth researching just to be safe
problems with chain tension?
No, rear mech has a clutch
@@ridesofjapan yes me too ,I have grx, but is it correct works always with clutch on "?
Yep, only need to switch off the when Removing the wheel
@@ridesofjapan ok I understand, thanks 😊
Why did you replace the Dura Ace derailleur with XT?
EdwinPauli I replaced an ultegra 6870 derailleur.
I wanted the clutch for better chain retention and the range for a 42 cassette.
Thank you. I want to do the same for my new cyclocross bike.
Lo he probado y no trabaja correctamente la cadena porque el plato no va centrado con los piñones. Si lo pones en el lugar del plato grande va muy cruzada (demasiado) y en el pequeño igual.
The xt dreuiler works out with ultegra 6770 di2 shifters?
Yep, should work.
But remember you can not pair the xt rear mech with a road front mech
Okey thanks!
Let me ask you this, what shifters are you using ?
I currently use the Shimano Ultegra Di2 8070 Shifters would it be compatible ?
Stress FreeLou yes no problem, all di2 components are compatible with each other.
(with the one exception that you can’t mix MTB and road derailleurs, but that is nothing you need to worry about with a 1x setup)
Nice one, job done!
At least I'm not oval curious anymore, looks like it'd be chaindroparama, even if it ain't, I'll stick to round
すごく分かりやすいです！
1×の方、クランクの重さ入れ忘れてませんか…？？
+Ride Lines ありがとうございます！
クランク自体は変えなかったので、重さ変わらないです。チェーンリングだけ交換しましたね。^_^
Rides of Japan Rides of Japan あ、そういう事ですか！
後者にだけクランクの項目がなかったのかと思ったら、どちらにも｢Crank ○○g｣とは記載してなかったんですね！
how about the shifters?
Scooby what do you mean? Changing them for 1x?
As the shifter are di2 there no need to change sifters. You can program them to shift however you want as well with Shimano di2 e-tube app.
I used a 1X narrow wide chainring with a Dura-Ace 11 spd chain and it fucked it up very quickly. I don't recommend do it.
とても見やすいです。
High school 北海道 R&B ありがとうございます😊
How is this setup holding up?
Crank is long gone (sold) but shifters and rear mech are still in use today.
@@ridesofjapan Any issues with the crank? Would like to do this on a SRAM Red 22 setup
No issues at all 👍
42t is the smallest chainring you can fit?
Edgar Studillo no, in case of Wolf Tooth they make chainrings for Shimano road cranks down to 36T. Other brands might make smaller though. 42T was a good balance for me and the type of rides I do.
mountainbike cranks for 1x go at least down to 32t maybe even lower,
but you'll regret that on a road bike
great video but my ears are bleeding from this music
Ngl I didn't mind it
what hub is that
Fabian O DT240s hub (dt Swiss rr21db wheelset)
Rides of Japan are you using only 1 lever at the cockpit to control the front and rear derailleur?
Fabian O I use both levers to control the rear derailleur. (No front derailleur)
if weight saving isn't the reason for this conversion, then what is?
Jogie Glen Mait for me the main reason is the simplicity and lighter climbing gear (42-42)
well, you got a point. cadence is super important for long climbs.
yeah I don't get it either. an 11-34 would give the same bottom gear. better high gears(you are GONNA spin out a 42-11 on slight descents, or with heavy tailwind), smaller steps inbetween and weigh basically the same.
Isn't it just a strict downgrade?
This 1x fad is really strange to me
I'm converting my road bike to 1x. With 2x, I rarely use the small cogs. Too much cross chaining/redundant gearing when on the 34t and too tall to push anywhere but downhill on the 50t. With 38t and a slight cassette change, I have the same climbing gears, and my top end is 94gi, which is plenty. I'm a clyde, so on downhills, I usually coast anyway.
You you think you'll cross chain less with a 1x? ok. makes little sense to me but maybe in your case the gears work out that way. I ran 1x on two bikes for a year. Upgraded both to 2x and I'm happy with it.no extra weight since you don't need a dinnerplate-sized cassette, and front mechs have always been adjustment and trouble-free for me).
Had an adventure bike with a 1x 38t front cog and I switched over to a 40/28 double and it's great
You should of loosened the chainring bolts before you removed the crankset from the bike.
GNX157 that’s an excellent tip! Cheers!
You didn't weigh the chainring after grinding again!!
Faaackin sweet m8
You had a super-efficient 2x drivetrain and made a heavier, more expensive 1x drivetrain with the inefficiency of cross-chaining. I see how it can be done but I certainly can't recommend that.
この改造でいくらぐらいしましたか？？
KAWASAKI ディレーラーとスポロケットは32000円ぐらいです。チェーンリングとボルトは100ドルです。
チェーンリングを削る道具は
何という物ですか？
N. Y グラインダーです。僕が使ったものはこちら: www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B006PPNTV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_c_yHKQAbTWE4C8T
How could you even make that misstake with the chainring when you hot a bike channel on youtube?
How many working gears in Di2?
aezif dhom What Do you mean? All of them is working fine.
Rides of Japan
Sorry. I mean i heard somewhere the di2 electronic chose workable gears automatically. It wont go bigest cassette with big ring right. So out of 22 gears only 12 is actual workable gears right?
aezif dhom ah I see what you mean. That occurs when you configure your ETUBE app with road derailleurs and road cranks like 50/34.
In this case as I use a MTB rear derailleur the ETUBE switched to “MTB” mode and you don’t have those settings. But yes, You can use all gears, obviously only 11 gears as I’m using a single front ring :)
Rides of Japan
Haha alrite. Thanks for the info bro.
i think you dont't need to cut the chainring, cuz wolf tooth did it for you already......