Good video, but as a massive WHAM! Fan as a teenager, I've gotta say that was sacrilege listening to that version of wake me up, however I'm willing to forgive and forget as the video content was good lol 😄😁😆😅🤣😂❤
Good fix! A note though, the 10mOhm resistor could have been a current sense resistor for overcurrent detection. That's how shunt current sensors work, you feed the difference voltage from either terminal of the resistor to a differential op amp and it gives you measurable voltage from a few millivolts or less. a 0-ohm will yield 0 voltage drop, so your current sensor will always measure 0 amps. It's just a protection though, so it can work without. Cheers
Steve you need to replace that 0ohm resistor with a proper 0.01ohm 1% pronto, it might be part of the battery charging circuit and very bad things 🔥could happen if the battery is overcharged.
I looked at the RK817 data sheet and your suspicion is correct: That is the battery gauge sense resistor - It needs to be the correct value or you will overcharge the battery.
I'm thinking it probably acts as a shunt for sensing the battery current, either for charging or discharging. It probably won't cause an overcharge, but it might result in too much charging current, which isn't exactly good either. It might also cause issues for the accuracy of the battery percentage reading, since the current draw is usually used to compensate for the voltage drop.
Steve, when measuring small resistance (let's say less than 10 Ohms) with a handheld multimeter, you should always "zero your leads", i.e. check the reading on the multimeter with the leads shorted and, if it's not zero, substract it from the measured value. A good set of leads should read about 0.06 Ohms, which your multimeter should round up to 0.1 Ohms. If it doesn't, then the "0" Ohm resistor does indeed have some resistance. At my job I regularly measure resistances of 0.0001 Ohms or lower, so 0.01 Ohm is a fairly large one in the world of current measuring shunts.
@@BennyAlex98 Usually (but not always) part of a filter circuit (usually with capacitors to form an LC circuit) to suppress power supply switching noise from affecting sensitive components (micros etc). Measures like an inductor (low resistance).
I don't think they just fell off... Seems more likely that the circuit got overloaded somehow and burned up the 0 ohm resistor and torched that 100uF capacitor too.
@Sam Holdsworth It's a reflection of the repair worker in both work ethic and care about the item they're working on. Stez amplifies this by how he won't give up on most things until there's absolutely nothing else to try. If you sent in something to be repaired, you'd want it back as close to the factory, wouldn't you?
@@samholdsworth420 Dirt can promote corrosion, and of course it's harder to inspect your work for bridges and cold solder joints if you don't clean it properly. It seems to me that a lot of youngish men interpret cleanliness as fussiness and therefore weak. It's almost as if they're threatened by something looking good, as if that coded unmanly for some reason.
My Poppa was an electrical engineer and I have fond memories of watching him fixing the neighbourhood's broken electrical goods. Your channel has a similar vibe to those days I lost, thank you! (P.s I don't think you're an old man!)
I still remember my first zero ohm resistor fondly, I was so excited! My first room temperature superconductor! I had all kinds of stuff planned so you can probably tell how sad I was when I ran some amperage through and measured a voltage drop. :(.
Nice fix Steve! A 0,01 Ohm resistor (or any really low precize value resistor) is usually a current sensing resistor. The device is measuring the voltage drop on that specific value and then it can calculate the current draw. I do now know the entire circuit could be that it is measuring the current draw of teh device or charging current or something like this and if there would be a short for example it would know that there is an excess overcurrent so it would shut down. You might have killed this feature now because it will definitely measure some odd value.
These are often part of the smart battery management chipset in gaming devices with a battery. Sometimes it’s on its own micro board on the end of the battery, but often it’s either on its own separate board off the battery or on the main board itself.
If it's for measuring charge current, it could possibly damage the battery. Regardless, please replace it with a precise 0.01 Ohm resistor ASAP, Steve! 🙏😬😁
That was also my first guess, especially being located right next to the battery terminal. Looking at the datasheet confirmes it: the resistor is connected to the SNSP and SNSN pins of the RK817 chip, which are responsible for "Bat charging and discharging sense current".
Nice fix..... makes you wonder what exploded those components... likely the wrong power supply..... you are lucky the voltage regulator was not fried as well... GOOD STUFF Mate !!
What, you mean ceramic caps aren’t supposed to explode? I’ve been electronicing wrong all these years! Next you’ll tell me they don’t actually hide all the colors in every LED, your just not over currenting it enough.
@@hugegamer5988 Heh, if it worries you ceramic caps exploding, you should take a look at tantalum ones. They tend to explode like a little bombs... 😁 Cheers!
do you ever get stressed out with repairs ? I often feel flustered and overwhelmed at times doing repairs , most of the time is like repeat putting back together to tear down again to go over something again, or the likes, I dont know what the right words are but i like that you seem really calm and clear headed when doing these videos, couldnt be me, so props to you !
The small value resistor was a shunt resistor designed to measure battery current. It might not be a good idea to charge that unit until you get a correct value resistor.
That resistor is the current sense resistor. Not always needed for the console to work, but if you have charging issues later, at least you will know where is the fault.
I've seen surface mount 0-ohm resistors used a couple of ways, principally as a jumper instead of using a via to another layer to hop over another track on the PCB, I've also seen them used as a "poor man's fuse" since the component may be electronically inconsequential it still has a maximum power rating, which can be more practical than using an actual fuse ~ particularly around batteries where a fixed amperage fuse can be problematic
That was Battery Current Sense. The charge chip diverts a portion of the USB charge voltage to the battery for charging. The charge chip outputs the voltage towards the battery. To ensure the current is normal, the charge chip samples the voltage before and after it passes the resistor. Without the resistor the charge chip thinks there is a short and will not charge or supply power to the battery.
What on earth happened to that poor Odroid for it to have shat out its components?! Nice fix & video as always. Can we get a RUclips Repairmen Song, get together with some other tech repair peeps on RUclips and all have a singsong together? That'd be fantastic
No idea what happened to it, I'm guessing dropped, or someone took some pliers to the battery connector and starting pulling away for fun! Great idea on the song, I'll ask around, maybe a Christmas rap?! I'm sure everyone will hate that! 😁😬
R4 is a pulldown resistor. R3 and R62 seem pull-up resistors for servicing the board perhaps? R12 is a short between BAT- and ground. I wonder if anyone connected Bat+ there and R12 blew up.
Amazing work as always. Where did you get the little voltage reader gadget plugged into your powerbank ftom. That’s a wicked bit of kit. I’d also love to send you my megadrive 2 for an av port repair but no idea how
Steve, I’ve become a big fan of your channel! I’d really like it if you would talk about how you have learned all you know about electronics and your equipment. Cheers! 👍
I own an original of the Beavis & Butthead game for my SNES. It’s proper annoying to play. If I’m wanting something to annoy me to take my mind off something else annoying, I’ll play it. I mainly keep it as a novelty.
My theory is that the guy who assembled this finished putting it together, then went for a bathroom break. On the way he overheard that everyone was going to get fired, so he went back and performed component surgery out of spite. That day they also fired the QA guy who would have been responsible for this, so all the items on his plate got pushed through.
A mate of mine had a funny one come into his shop last week, chap brought in a motherboard missing some components and he was quite distressed as no matter what he did, the components he had changed kept falling off... so me friend said what solder are you using and the chap an older bloke said "Oh I used some of that low melt solder everyone raves on about"... mystery solved
Another great video as usual!! Thank you for sharing! Cant wait till the next one. Almost got all the past videos watched. Then what will I do while I wait for new ones? AHHHHHHHHH
I have a little HH console. It looks like a Game boy that's been shrunk in wash. It plays a lot of games from Regular GB, CB Colour, GB Advance, NES, Master System, MegaDrive, Snes, N64, Game Cube, PS1, and MAME. The only trouble is the screen is tiny and a bit shit. And some games require more buttons then the system has. But it was only £25 and it came with a 64G SD card filled with over 4000 roms.
Hi sir. Can you please tell me any hope for my switch that I didn't charge or use one year and this time. Didn't won't to charge left it in charge for two days still nothing I tried hold for 20 second and nothing. It did this before and works but this time seem nothing:(
Mate you are a great content maker, eewww I can believe I said content maker... Mate you make great videos, always make me smile, keep up the good work 😊
I miss Guy Fawkes night since moving abroad. I used to celebrate it for my kids until we were told fireworks outside of new years is illegal :( Oh...Great fix Steve. Sound like Steve Wright patting himself on the back there..."Great show Steve".
@@StezStixFix Hi Steve, just to let you know, there are people here that has confirmed that the 0.01ohm resistor is for measuring charge current. It's critical that this is not a zero ohm resistor, because the chip that manages charge, will think that it's charging with 0Amps, because there's no voltage drop over the resistor, and keep cranking up the voltage to whatever maximum it can, which will likely destroy the battery - but I hope that it won't fail violently. Regardless, please replace that resistor before charging the battery again 🙏😊 (EDIT: I'm not saying this to steal credit, please give it to the person who looked up the diagram - I just worry about battery safety)
C54 where are you? If anyone gets that reference, you will earn a hero cookie. Also R12 appears to be just a current sense resistor. Only reason they ask for a high precision resistor is for accurate stable results.
But as someone else pointed out, this is for charge current - with a 0 Ohm resistor, it'll charge with as much voltage as can be delivered, which likely will damage the battery
Good work Stevo, but for the love of all things good stop using that sh*tty conical tip, they're junk, throw it in the bin! You will have far better results using a larger tip, you need to try using either of the following which will help you a lot! T15-BC2, T15-BCM2 or the T15-JS02 all those 3 will do almost all jobs, for really large ground pads grab the T15-D32 and you'll be golden! Great video once again mate.
I'd love to know what happened to it, seems odd it would self destruct like that unless it was damaged already and popped out when the unit was dropped!?
@@StezStixFix I’ve designed electronic devices that are designed to be thrown and impact hard surfaces that regularly take upwards of 1k times earths gravity, small smd components like 1206 and under don’t even need potting and won’t come off unless there is a *ton* of board flex and likely many throws. When they fail from impact due to board bending, they crack a colder solder joint or crack an end often in a way that’s hard to see. Leaving both the pads and a bit of the substrate tells me it was outgassing causing an explosion likely from over voltage as another commenter suggested.
@@StezStixFix I do this for a living. I can almost guarantee someone has twatted it off the board when handling it, same with the current sense resistor. Likely either dropped the PCB and those components caught the brunt of it, or they've had an "oops!" moment with a screwdriver. You'll want to fit the correct value 0r01 too btw, it's how it'll measure the charge current, with that 0r link on there it'll think it's drawing a different amount of current than it actually is, unless you've got super lucky and picked one that is actually 0r01.
That *is* a weird fault. I wonder if the previous owner tried to fix it and messed it up or if those components just fell off on their own. Is it a design flaw maybe?
The Issues you have with Soldering might be because of the tip. Can you replace the round ones with chisel or knife tips? And you're using a little bit too much Solder. Not much, just a little.
That and alway use flux while soldering and not just for removing parts. You should first slightly tin just one pad with solder, then hold the component with a tweaser and solder it on while slightly pressing the component flat on the pcb. Then solder the other side while holding the compontent down.
Stupid... Stupid game
😝😝I'm watching just for this moment
Nice repair 🎉😊
Would you like a Gameboy Pocket present?
Good video, but as a massive WHAM! Fan as a teenager, I've gotta say that was sacrilege listening to that version of wake me up, however I'm willing to forgive and forget as the video content was good lol 😄😁😆😅🤣😂❤
You should learn how to make ur own resistors at home.
Or how to tweak the ones you already have.
I think that really really low value resistor was acting as a shunt so it could measure the power draw. That's why the power went through it.
I work in an industry where you just replace the board, the components are tiny. I salute you for being able to do it.
Good fix! A note though, the 10mOhm resistor could have been a current sense resistor for overcurrent detection. That's how shunt current sensors work, you feed the difference voltage from either terminal of the resistor to a differential op amp and it gives you measurable voltage from a few millivolts or less. a 0-ohm will yield 0 voltage drop, so your current sensor will always measure 0 amps. It's just a protection though, so it can work without.
Cheers
Steve you need to replace that 0ohm resistor with a proper 0.01ohm 1% pronto, it might be part of the battery charging circuit and very bad things 🔥could happen if the battery is overcharged.
I agree with this. Do not leave it charging for a long time until you fit the correct part.
I looked at the RK817 data sheet and your suspicion is correct: That is the battery gauge sense resistor - It needs to be the correct value or you will overcharge the battery.
I'm thinking it probably acts as a shunt for sensing the battery current, either for charging or discharging. It probably won't cause an overcharge, but it might result in too much charging current, which isn't exactly good either. It might also cause issues for the accuracy of the battery percentage reading, since the current draw is usually used to compensate for the voltage drop.
Exactly, you find the exact same type of resistor (but way bigger) on EVERY laptop on DC Side and Bat side, it's main propose is to sense current
Steve, when measuring small resistance (let's say less than 10 Ohms) with a handheld multimeter, you should always "zero your leads", i.e. check the reading on the multimeter with the leads shorted and, if it's not zero, substract it from the measured value. A good set of leads should read about 0.06 Ohms, which your multimeter should round up to 0.1 Ohms. If it doesn't, then the "0" Ohm resistor does indeed have some resistance.
At my job I regularly measure resistances of 0.0001 Ohms or lower, so 0.01 Ohm is a fairly large one in the world of current measuring shunts.
Great Job Steve! Those pesky resistors and capacitors falling off. On a side note FB1 FB2 or FB normally means ferrite bead, not a fuse :)
what are those for?
@@BennyAlex98 Usually (but not always) part of a filter circuit (usually with capacitors to form an LC circuit) to suppress power supply switching noise from affecting sensitive components (micros etc). Measures like an inductor (low resistance).
Pretty sure fb is Facebook
they don't just fall off, it's the stupid user doing stupid shit to their electronics.
I don't think they just fell off... Seems more likely that the circuit got overloaded somehow and burned up the 0 ohm resistor and torched that 100uF capacitor too.
Appreciation post for always super cleaning the area of work. I've seen other repairers leave stains on the board, which drives me nuts. Love it!
Who cares if you don't see it lol
@Sam Holdsworth It's a reflection of the repair worker in both work ethic and care about the item they're working on. Stez amplifies this by how he won't give up on most things until there's absolutely nothing else to try.
If you sent in something to be repaired, you'd want it back as close to the factory, wouldn't you?
@@GameRaveTV fair enough.
@@samholdsworth420 Dirt can promote corrosion, and of course it's harder to inspect your work for bridges and cold solder joints if you don't clean it properly.
It seems to me that a lot of youngish men interpret cleanliness as fussiness and therefore weak. It's almost as if they're threatened by something looking good, as if that coded unmanly for some reason.
@@Ea-Nasir_Copper_Co no I just wouldn't care... And I'm 42 years old I'm not very young lol
My Poppa was an electrical engineer and I have fond memories of watching him fixing the neighbourhood's broken electrical goods. Your channel has a similar vibe to those days I lost, thank you! (P.s I don't think you're an old man!)
I still remember my first zero ohm resistor fondly, I was so excited! My first room temperature superconductor! I had all kinds of stuff planned so you can probably tell how sad I was when I ran some amperage through and measured a voltage drop. :(.
Nice fix Steve! A 0,01 Ohm resistor (or any really low precize value resistor) is usually a current sensing resistor. The device is measuring the voltage drop on that specific value and then it can calculate the current draw. I do now know the entire circuit could be that it is measuring the current draw of teh device or charging current or something like this and if there would be a short for example it would know that there is an excess overcurrent so it would shut down. You might have killed this feature now because it will definitely measure some odd value.
These are often part of the smart battery management chipset in gaming devices with a battery. Sometimes it’s on its own micro board on the end of the battery, but often it’s either on its own separate board off the battery or on the main board itself.
@@hugegamer5988 yes, in most modern devices, battery management is solved by specific ICs and the implemented BMS on the battery.
If it's for measuring charge current, it could possibly damage the battery.
Regardless, please replace it with a precise 0.01 Ohm resistor ASAP, Steve! 🙏😬😁
The troubleshooting part never gets old. Keep it up!
12:41 is the reason I watch this channel. This flip would literally happen to all of us repairing stuff. Keep it real dude!
I have watched everyone of your videos, even though I understand zero of what you’re doing. Def one of my favorite channels.
The gold cylinder marked X1 is a crystal. The numbers are likely the frequency, just over 12mhz it looks like
0:58 the music is GoldenEye 64 Facility ❤
0.01 ohm resistor is most likely for sensing the charge current.
That was also my first guess, especially being located right next to the battery terminal. Looking at the datasheet confirmes it: the resistor is connected to the SNSP and SNSN pins of the RK817 chip, which are responsible for "Bat charging and discharging sense current".
I feared that, and it makes it pretty damned important to replace it
Love this channel for just how real you are.
You are amazing at being able to fix things.
Beauty!! Stupid exploding components.... 👍
🤣 I hope they did explode, no idea how that happens otherwise, unless it took a nasty fall and they fell out!
Great work it lives again.
Brilliant fix well spotted
i got one of these in the sale for £50
pretty fun to build and fun to play on
1,100 subscribers more than last week. Well done!
Well done bringing this one back to life!
Nice , always looking forward to a new episode.
Searched for use of that milli ohm resistor. Could be an amp-sensor, converting amps to volts for an IC to measure.
Nice fix..... makes you wonder what exploded those components... likely the wrong power supply..... you are lucky the voltage regulator was not fried as well... GOOD STUFF Mate !!
Cheers Ron, Yeah, good point, I wonder if the voltage regulator is gonna last? 🤔
What, you mean ceramic caps aren’t supposed to explode? I’ve been electronicing wrong all these years! Next you’ll tell me they don’t actually hide all the colors in every LED, your just not over currenting it enough.
@@hugegamer5988 HAHAHAHA
it was made in a Chinese factory so they were probably not put on correctly. It seems they are still on the factory floor somewhere.
@@hugegamer5988 Heh, if it worries you ceramic caps exploding, you should take a look at tantalum ones. They tend to explode like a little bombs... 😁
Cheers!
do you ever get stressed out with repairs ? I often feel flustered and overwhelmed at times doing repairs , most of the time is like repeat putting back together to tear down again to go over something again, or the likes, I dont know what the right words are but i like that you seem really calm and clear headed when doing these videos, couldnt be me, so props to you !
I wonder if the R3/R4 and R61/R62 pairs were just being used as configuration jumpers.
The fireworks graphics were a beautiful touch 🎆👌
Made me LOL
Good to see you fix your Odroid Go there Steve another nice fix mate 👍
The small value resistor was a shunt resistor designed to measure battery current. It might not be a good idea to charge that unit until you get a correct value resistor.
with that barrel type power plug likely somone applied way too much voltage and the 0ohm and 100uf cap gave up to protect the rest of the board
Well done Steve 😊👍
I love the fact that you fix things that other people can't.. but your phone (tablet?) screen has a crack in it just like everybody else's.
That resistor is the current sense resistor. Not always needed for the console to work, but if you have charging issues later, at least you will know where is the fault.
Your getting better and better and finding these faults.
Cool looking machine though
amazing video as always!! thanks Steve!!
I've seen surface mount 0-ohm resistors used a couple of ways, principally as a jumper instead of using a via to another layer to hop over another track on the PCB, I've also seen them used as a "poor man's fuse" since the component may be electronically inconsequential it still has a maximum power rating, which can be more practical than using an actual fuse ~ particularly around batteries where a fixed amperage fuse can be problematic
That was Battery Current Sense.
The charge chip diverts a portion of the USB charge voltage to the battery for charging.
The charge chip outputs the voltage towards the battery. To ensure the current is normal, the charge chip samples the voltage before and after it passes the resistor.
Without the resistor the charge chip thinks there is a short and will not charge or supply power to the battery.
Love the fireworks!! Great episode as always.
I have one of these, you got an original, the revised ones had usb c. They're cool, came in a kitset and you assembled it yourself :)
"I think there's something going on."
Stez, 2022
🤣🤣
What on earth happened to that poor Odroid for it to have shat out its components?! Nice fix & video as always.
Can we get a RUclips Repairmen Song, get together with some other tech repair peeps on RUclips and all have a singsong together? That'd be fantastic
No idea what happened to it, I'm guessing dropped, or someone took some pliers to the battery connector and starting pulling away for fun! Great idea on the song, I'll ask around, maybe a Christmas rap?! I'm sure everyone will hate that! 😁😬
@@StezStixFix Hmmmm, wouldn't that be C-rap? Great idea, look forward to hearing it!
R4 is a pulldown resistor. R3 and R62 seem pull-up resistors for servicing the board perhaps? R12 is a short between BAT- and ground. I wonder if anyone connected Bat+ there and R12 blew up.
Fantastic work Steve!
Amazing work as always. Where did you get the little voltage reader gadget plugged into your powerbank ftom. That’s a wicked bit of kit. I’d also love to send you my megadrive 2 for an av port repair but no idea how
2:33 Never trust battery voltage with no load. It could drop to 3v faster than you think ;)
Hi, where can I get a stand like the one you have for your microscope. The stock stand is kinda short, thanks.
He has a video about the microscopes, I don't have time to link it but I wanted to give you a hint in case Steve doesn't see this.
Steve, I’ve become a big fan of your channel! I’d really like it if you would talk about how you have learned all you know about electronics and your equipment. Cheers! 👍
That resistor was for sensing the present of battery current .
0.1 can be nasty! - Nice fix !!
Amazing work, as always.
Do you also offer repair / modding services?
Love watching you repair then despair, Steve lol. Enjoyable viewing as ever 👍👍
0.01R used for current sensing , maybe part of charge or battery management circuitry.
I own an original of the Beavis & Butthead game for my SNES.
It’s proper annoying to play. If I’m wanting something to annoy me to take my mind off something else annoying, I’ll play it. I mainly keep it as a novelty.
My theory is that the guy who assembled this finished putting it together, then went for a bathroom break. On the way he overheard that everyone was going to get fired, so he went back and performed component surgery out of spite.
That day they also fired the QA guy who would have been responsible for this, so all the items on his plate got pushed through.
A mate of mine had a funny one come into his shop last week, chap brought in a motherboard missing some components and he was quite distressed as no matter what he did, the components he had changed kept falling off... so me friend said what solder are you using and the chap an older bloke said "Oh I used some of that low melt solder everyone raves on about"... mystery solved
Good job on the fix, I can't believe how many pieces of tech have ended up in the garbage but just needed new capcitors. :D
Goldeye looked good until it loaded fully
great video
Idk crap about this stuff but it’s so entertaining lmao. Keep up the great humor and content.
Another great video as usual!! Thank you for sharing! Cant wait till the next one. Almost got all the past videos watched. Then what will I do while I wait for new ones? AHHHHHHHHH
Glad you found your soldering shoes again! 😊
You put the Boom Boom into my heart!
Can't wait to see the Retroid 5
Nice flow, even got a rhyme today!
😁 I hope I'm pronouncing your name correctly, but it does rhyme nicely with "throw your hands in the air!" the way I say it! 🤣
@@StezStixFix Your pronunciation is more than perfect! Even french people has trouble with my last name...
I have a little HH console. It looks like a Game boy that's been shrunk in wash.
It plays a lot of games from Regular GB, CB Colour, GB Advance, NES, Master System, MegaDrive, Snes, N64, Game Cube, PS1, and MAME. The only trouble is the screen is tiny and a bit shit. And some games require more buttons then the system has. But it was only £25 and it came with a 64G SD card filled with over 4000 roms.
in 3:14 on "Rockchip" the fifth and sixth from left side is " ----------- Joined together ------------ "
Hi sir. Can you please tell me any hope for my switch that I didn't charge or use one year and this time. Didn't won't to charge left it in charge for two days still nothing I tried hold for 20 second and nothing. It did this before and works but this time seem nothing:(
I think that consol just sold for content
any reason to explain how that component broken?
Mate you are a great content maker, eewww I can believe I said content maker...
Mate you make great videos, always make me smile, keep up the good work 😊
I miss Guy Fawkes night since moving abroad. I used to celebrate it for my kids until we were told fireworks outside of new years is illegal :( Oh...Great fix Steve. Sound like Steve Wright patting himself on the back there..."Great show Steve".
Another great upload and another great fix 👍⭐.
Nice It definitely looked like someone removed those components. maybe tried fix it but failed.
Nice one Steve - back of the net😀
Thanks Greg! 👍
@@StezStixFix Hi Steve, just to let you know, there are people here that has confirmed that the 0.01ohm resistor is for measuring charge current. It's critical that this is not a zero ohm resistor, because the chip that manages charge, will think that it's charging with 0Amps, because there's no voltage drop over the resistor, and keep cranking up the voltage to whatever maximum it can, which will likely destroy the battery - but I hope that it won't fail violently.
Regardless, please replace that resistor before charging the battery again 🙏😊
(EDIT: I'm not saying this to steal credit, please give it to the person who looked up the diagram - I just worry about battery safety)
The Rockchip at 3:15 has two pins soldered together on the left side... is that normal?
C54 where are you? If anyone gets that reference, you will earn a hero cookie.
Also R12 appears to be just a current sense resistor. Only reason they ask for a high precision resistor is for accurate stable results.
But as someone else pointed out, this is for charge current - with a 0 Ohm resistor, it'll charge with as much voltage as can be delivered, which likely will damage the battery
@@nemesis2264 Good jorb, you earned one cookie
Great vid again. 👍😀
When you solder surface mount, what temperature is your soldering iron at?
Great fix Steve. Those guys might have kept their fireworks for the end.
Uncle Steve is doing GoDs work
how do you find the scematics for stuff
Good work Stevo, but for the love of all things good stop using that sh*tty conical tip, they're junk, throw it in the bin! You will have far better results using a larger tip, you need to try using either of the following which will help you a lot! T15-BC2, T15-BCM2 or the T15-JS02 all those 3 will do almost all jobs, for really large ground pads grab the T15-D32 and you'll be golden! Great video once again mate.
Yeah i said it before, i'll say it again. I will not skip the rap. Love that shit.
Can you copy that card to a zip? I run botocera and some of my drivers are funky. I’d like to compare everything
Great Video !
my fsavourite part was when you ficed that LCD connector so easily that was clearly already broken
Oh man, RIP that poor capacitor.
I'd love to know what happened to it, seems odd it would self destruct like that unless it was damaged already and popped out when the unit was dropped!?
@@StezStixFix I’ve designed electronic devices that are designed to be thrown and impact hard surfaces that regularly take upwards of 1k times earths gravity, small smd components like 1206 and under don’t even need potting and won’t come off unless there is a *ton* of board flex and likely many throws. When they fail from impact due to board bending, they crack a colder solder joint or crack an end often in a way that’s hard to see. Leaving both the pads and a bit of the substrate tells me it was outgassing causing an explosion likely from over voltage as another commenter suggested.
@@StezStixFix I do this for a living. I can almost guarantee someone has twatted it off the board when handling it, same with the current sense resistor. Likely either dropped the PCB and those components caught the brunt of it, or they've had an "oops!" moment with a screwdriver. You'll want to fit the correct value 0r01 too btw, it's how it'll measure the charge current, with that 0r link on there it'll think it's drawing a different amount of current than it actually is, unless you've got super lucky and picked one that is actually 0r01.
Why use a soldering iron and not hot air for the little SMD components? Worried they'll blow away?
Not enough room for soldering the capacitor is likely because it's not the right package. Very likely a 0806 then.
Hi where did you get the microscope stand?
Another stzstix awesome video
That *is* a weird fault. I wonder if the previous owner tried to fix it and messed it up or if those components just fell off on their own. Is it a design flaw maybe?
What a 'gotcha' in the end. Weird that it won't even power on without the microSD card.
Gosh you had me at "Let's take it apart..." 😂🖖
Bordel la bande son de GoldenEye est juste magnifique. Que de souvenirs ❤
I love the raps… maybe it just me, but keep it “flowing” Steve.
The Issues you have with Soldering might be because of the tip.
Can you replace the round ones with chisel or knife tips?
And you're using a little bit too much Solder. Not much, just a little.
That and alway use flux while soldering and not just for removing parts. You should first slightly tin just one pad with solder, then hold the component with a tweaser and solder it on while slightly pressing the component flat on the pcb. Then solder the other side while holding the compontent down.
I have one of these, they were great, could even do some PSP :)