Going to consider this model for my Harker EDC. I’ve needed a third brake light for a while so this will be overkill, but at least it’ll look cool and add some functionality off-road. Great video as always!
I’ve seen a few guys on RUclips were they silicon the lenses in the water gets in there and also seeing people stick ceramic window tent they can be clear yellow or smoke on the lens of the light bar you can do you can do that to your headlights fog lights any lights it helps protects any lights from the rocks hitting the lights damaging the lenses condensation inside the lights once they’re damaged but if they’re already getting yellow in them then they needto get waterproof
@@BaptismOverland that’s great these companies been making these light bars long enough are they know how to get it done the right way even if they build quality light bars and pods and whatever table like you have I would still protect the lenses clear film protection🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🗽🗽🗽🗽🗽🗽🗽
This is more of a question than a Good comment.... I have watched both videos about the Xprite chase lights. Now the question; There is no way to isolate Block 1 and 6 (the Red Running and Stop) lights?. As you mentioned, there will be the time when you just want the White LEDs (with its dedicated switch on the POD) when chilling out at the campsite and that is what I would like to do.
You can! But it becomes a title bit more complicated. I isolated the reverse light once by putting the white wire to a switch pod (or rig a switch to it) but because the whole thing is on a harness, you would now have to turn the chase light on first THEN flip the switch for the white. So that's flipping two switches just to get that part to light up (unless your chase light switch stays on all the time anyway). So if you don't mind running it like that then yes you can do that with pretty much any of the wires that you would NORMALLY tap into a stock wire on your taillights. Basically instead of taking the turn signal wires or the reverse wires and tapping it to your taillight, you'd run it to a separate switch pod or its own switch with relay and fuse to a power source. That's a bit too much pointless work just for that capability.
I’ve had this lightbar since December and EVERY light has water intrusion into them. And randomly the ambers will light up when turn signals are used. Thought it would be good from your video. Sadly it’s not
Dang bro I'm sorry to hear that. I've never had issues with mine EXCEPT the turn signal thing (it's why I never connected it). I'm not sponsored by Xprite but I'll def bring it up to them. Sadly too I don't see any waterproof rating on their specs
I really want this light bar, the only thing that in Europe must have amber turn light, what's a pain recable my mustang 07 and the JKU too, hope it's possible with this ( or they have a EU version red runnung/brake amber turn)!
Ok I'll tell you why...this comes with a 3 way switch...first position off, 2nd position turns on the unit and 3rd position that you push and it doesn't stay. It's meant for you to toggle through the different amber blink patterns or turn it off. And therein lies your problem. To get those to activate you'll need to first turn the whole unit on. So if I put this to an S Pod you'd need to first press the s pod to bring power to the unit THEN press the 3 position switch so you can turn on the unit THEN choose your ambers. I don't wanna be pressing all those buttons just to turn the unit on. All the wiring is built in too so you'd have to take it all apart just to run to the S Pod which would then take up two slots on your s pod...one for power and one for amber options. And with the S Pod buttons just being in on or off positions, how then will you toggle through the patterns? TLDR: it's not just a simple on and off with chase lights. Trust me, I tried lol
@@BaptismOverland fair point. I love this product but dont want to have a one off button. That is not on my SPod. Thanks for the reply. Also great video.
@@Bifrost_jt thanks! If I'm being honest though I may be removing my chase lights. They're great don't get me wrong but we don't use them as much as I thought I'd be using them. I might just get a pair of ambers and put it to a switch pod. Sure it won't have the blinking patterns but I also found that many of those who follow me get annoyed by the blinking lights after being on the trail for hours.
Are you experiencing any interference with your two way radio or your key fob? The other xprite chase light that i bought causes major interference with my key fob and two way radio.
I almost did. Had the dremel out and everything ready to go. But after measuring the switch actually runs into the other bulge of the dash. It wasn't the interior part that was hindering. And because those areas are nicely molded along with the other factory switches, I DID NOT want to f** that area up and make it look horrible.
Then they should have given you the long wire then the short..just to get more $ from customers. For that price they need to give you both. But that's my view.
Fair. And I agree until you consider the KC Baja and Rigid are 3x the cost and there's no harness at all. Just wires coming out of the bar. These are sub $200. Extension is sub $50. Not bad.
Hey man, thanks for the video. So I tried to follow your instructions as best I could but I couldn't get it working. I'm going to provide what I did in hopes that you can identify where I might be going wrong. 1. Removed stock terminal from negative wire and reconnected wire to a terminal ring. 2. Connected terminal wring to the same place you grounded in the video. 3. Cut and connected positive wire to an Add-A-Curcuit adapter then connected that with the fuse (7.5) in the ACC slot. I left the other slot empty. Now step 3 is where I slightly differ from you as my ACC position is at the bottom right (right next to where i grounded the negative terminal ring). After that, I turned on the car and when I hit the switch, nothing happened. Any ideas what I could be missing. I have a 2021 4runner. Could it be where I'm plugging the positive in to?
@BaptismOverland hey. Nothing at all. The differences is I see between what I did is that since I didn't have any previous lights/switches, I wired up the xprite positive wires directly to the add-a-circuit adapter. I then connected the adapter to the acc and used the 7.5 fuse from the acc and put it in the new position on the adapter. I noticed you're using a 15amp? Would that not be too powerful or possibly cause overheating/fire? If it's safe, which position did you plug it into on the adapter?
I wouldn't chance it- at least not the ambers. Once I did have the red lights on by accident and there was a cop behind me but he never pulled me over.
I do not understand how this channel isn't a 100k+ sub channel
Thanks brotha!
Great content and personality as always! Appreciated your time. I can relate to the mods before a trip, mods before a mod!!!
Going to consider this model for my Harker EDC. I’ve needed a third brake light for a while so this will be overkill, but at least it’ll look cool and add some functionality off-road.
Great video as always!
Great video, especially with the wiring diagrams. Well done. Many thanks for your efforts.
Asia Samson; Outstanding review video and "How to". Definitely very well clearly explained. Thank You.
I used a Rigid Chase light as a third brake light / backup light. You will like it a lot. Love your work.
I wanted that one originally! It's just so pricey
Quality of your videos are sick. You’ll blow up soon!
Hope so!
Love your videos Asia. Keep up the great work dude.
I’ve seen a few guys on RUclips were they silicon the lenses in the water gets in there and also seeing people stick ceramic window tent they can be clear yellow or smoke on the lens of the light bar you can do you can do that to your headlights fog lights any lights it helps protects any lights from the rocks hitting the lights damaging the lenses condensation inside the lights once they’re damaged but if they’re already getting yellow in them then they needto get waterproof
They yellowed out on me. I've since replaced it with the RZ series which has held up great
@@BaptismOverland that’s great these companies been making these light bars long enough are they know how to get it done the right way even if they build quality light bars and pods and whatever table like you have I would still protect the lenses clear film protection🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🗽🗽🗽🗽🗽🗽🗽
great video...I need to get me one of these for my 3rd gen
This is more of a question than a Good comment.... I have watched both videos about the Xprite chase lights. Now the question; There is no way to isolate Block 1 and 6 (the Red Running and Stop) lights?. As you mentioned, there will be the time when you just want the White LEDs (with its dedicated switch on the POD) when chilling out at the campsite and that is what I would like to do.
You can! But it becomes a title bit more complicated. I isolated the reverse light once by putting the white wire to a switch pod (or rig a switch to it) but because the whole thing is on a harness, you would now have to turn the chase light on first THEN flip the switch for the white. So that's flipping two switches just to get that part to light up (unless your chase light switch stays on all the time anyway). So if you don't mind running it like that then yes you can do that with pretty much any of the wires that you would NORMALLY tap into a stock wire on your taillights.
Basically instead of taking the turn signal wires or the reverse wires and tapping it to your taillight, you'd run it to a separate switch pod or its own switch with relay and fuse to a power source. That's a bit too much pointless work just for that capability.
"don't go chasing waterfalls"
I wish these were Bluetooth enabled and worked with an app so you don’t have to run them to the front
Great review
I’ve had this lightbar since December and EVERY light has water intrusion into them. And randomly the ambers will light up when turn signals are used. Thought it would be good from your video. Sadly it’s not
Dang bro I'm sorry to hear that. I've never had issues with mine EXCEPT the turn signal thing (it's why I never connected it). I'm not sponsored by Xprite but I'll def bring it up to them. Sadly too I don't see any waterproof rating on their specs
Hi. I have a question for the light bar wiring it doesn’t need relays? Just straight to positive and negative?
Relays are built inside the unit already
Ok. Thank you.
Where did you get those rocker switch panels? Want to make sure the size is the same for mine
Amazon. This is what I got but it looks like it isn't avail anymore
a.co/d/h0JcvOH
I really want this light bar, the only thing that in Europe must have amber turn light, what's a pain recable my mustang 07 and the JKU too, hope it's possible with this ( or they have a EU version red runnung/brake amber turn)!
Why didn't you hook this up to your SPod? Can you still get all the functionality if you hook it up to a SPod?
Ok I'll tell you why...this comes with a 3 way switch...first position off, 2nd position turns on the unit and 3rd position that you push and it doesn't stay. It's meant for you to toggle through the different amber blink patterns or turn it off. And therein lies your problem. To get those to activate you'll need to first turn the whole unit on. So if I put this to an S Pod you'd need to first press the s pod to bring power to the unit THEN press the 3 position switch so you can turn on the unit THEN choose your ambers. I don't wanna be pressing all those buttons just to turn the unit on. All the wiring is built in too so you'd have to take it all apart just to run to the S Pod which would then take up two slots on your s pod...one for power and one for amber options. And with the S Pod buttons just being in on or off positions, how then will you toggle through the patterns?
TLDR: it's not just a simple on and off with chase lights. Trust me, I tried lol
@@BaptismOverland fair point. I love this product but dont want to have a one off button. That is not on my SPod. Thanks for the reply. Also great video.
@@Bifrost_jt thanks! If I'm being honest though I may be removing my chase lights. They're great don't get me wrong but we don't use them as much as I thought I'd be using them. I might just get a pair of ambers and put it to a switch pod. Sure it won't have the blinking patterns but I also found that many of those who follow me get annoyed by the blinking lights after being on the trail for hours.
Are you experiencing any interference with your two way radio or your key fob? The other xprite chase light that i bought causes major interference with my key fob and two way radio.
I haven't no.
You should of took a Dremel and routed out the factory hole to make the switch fit
I almost did. Had the dremel out and everything ready to go. But after measuring the switch actually runs into the other bulge of the dash. It wasn't the interior part that was hindering. And because those areas are nicely molded along with the other factory switches, I DID NOT want to f** that area up and make it look horrible.
Then they should have given you the long wire then the short..just to get more $ from customers. For that price they need to give you both. But that's my view.
Fair. And I agree until you consider the KC Baja and Rigid are 3x the cost and there's no harness at all. Just wires coming out of the bar. These are sub $200. Extension is sub $50. Not bad.
have you had a leaking problem running the wires in the rear? can you route it through the taillight area?
I have not! It's been great. I've monitored it and it's been doing good
cool!
Hey man, thanks for the video. So I tried to follow your instructions as best I could but I couldn't get it working.
I'm going to provide what I did in hopes that you can identify where I might be going wrong.
1. Removed stock terminal from negative wire and reconnected wire to a terminal ring.
2. Connected terminal wring to the same place you grounded in the video.
3. Cut and connected positive wire to an Add-A-Curcuit adapter then connected that with the fuse (7.5) in the ACC slot. I left the other slot empty.
Now step 3 is where I slightly differ from you as my ACC position is at the bottom right (right next to where i grounded the negative terminal ring).
After that, I turned on the car and when I hit the switch, nothing happened. Any ideas what I could be missing. I have a 2021 4runner. Could it be where I'm plugging the positive in to?
So nothing at ALL happened? Did the switch illuminate at least or just nothing at all
@BaptismOverland hey. Nothing at all. The differences is I see between what I did is that since I didn't have any previous lights/switches, I wired up the xprite positive wires directly to the add-a-circuit adapter. I then connected the adapter to the acc and used the 7.5 fuse from the acc and put it in the new position on the adapter. I noticed you're using a 15amp? Would that not be too powerful or possibly cause overheating/fire? If it's safe, which position did you plug it into on the adapter?
So does a flashlight come in box..lol jk. Great video. I love ur light special affects box opening
Hahahahahaha i was inspired by Pulp Fiction
Is this legal to run on the road?
I wouldn't chance it- at least not the ambers. Once I did have the red lights on by accident and there was a cop behind me but he never pulled me over.
You have good vids with some nice tips. But when you try to do weird asmr noises I lose it
Huh? Lol. What asmr noises? Without a doubt the weirdest critique I've gotten yet