Add a 470 uF 25V capacitor directly next to pin 1 and 8 of the 555 timer, it will help with the stability of the oscillator. As to the 4017 not reliably clocking, you can also add a 1k resistor between pin 3 of the 555 and Vcc, as the 555 with a 5V supply often does not always have enough output drive voltage to reliably clock the 4017, needing to be within 200mV of the Vcc rail, and often with 5V not reaching much above 4V. Might work, might not always work, so at a minimum pull up needed, as the output will definitely pull down to under 300mV, even with a lamp loading it. Resistor value here not too critical, anything from 100R to 10k will likely work, but with all sorts of manufacturers making what they call a 555 timer, but only in respect of pinout and probable ability to oscillate (remember this is one of the oldest production IC's, long out of copyright, and the production likely is in the billions per year still) so 1k likely is a good compromise.
I remember playing with that circuit back in the early 80s, when I was a teen. Then Popular Electronics magazine published a design for an LED oscilliscope that used a new chip (the LM3914) which converted an analog voltage to a 1-of-10 output, and the 4017 for the horizontal sweep. The fun part was wiring the 10x10 grid of leds. You pretty much had to use it in a darkened room because each LED only had a 10% duty cycle at most, but it was so cool to have your own oscilliscope at all.
I'd like to get an oscilliscope but right now I can't afford it, When I search on some circuits people say that it's a must have for those messing with electronics. Maybe if I ever reach 1000 subrscribers I'll get one
@@NevesProjects If you stick to digital electronics, it's rarely useful. For analog electronics, it's certainly a very nice to have. My favorite device, after a digital multimeter, is an LCR tester. That way you can identify interesting components you scavenge from boards, most things with 2 or 3 pins. The ones with a ZIF (zero insertion force) socket are the most convenient to use (google for LCR TC1). Being able to measure inductance is great for figuring out scavenged coils, or if you want to wind your own.
@@ericthecyclist I'll google it, I do scrap to make an extra buck here and there and I find a lot of electronics that people throw out, some pc's and stuff that still work, so yea I'll check it out
Hey hows it going, my 3d printer broke down, I keep getting a 2509 temp sensor error, I already ordered 3 different hot ends but problem still there, I'm waiting for a hot end circuit board from aliexpress to see if that will fix it so till then the tank is on hold. I emailed you a few days ago
@NevesProjects buddy I sent an email back but never got a reply, and did you check your board on your printer and the wires? It sounds like a bad connection, since you have to open it up to replace, do a check on it and get it going sooner. If you just replace the board and get the same issue, try the wires, I've notice China uses weak wires that can wear out, they sometime don't anneal the copper on their wires during manufacturing and the wire can be stiff and break like a coat hanger when you bend it many times. I think when you finish that tank, it should be used as a museum piece for the family and the world buddy. Make a cool video when it's done, you could go viral and if you become rich, throw me a bone for setting you up lol. Your efforts and talents should be shown. Project guys always have the most intelligence, why you think we all get along lol
@@TheToolReview I'll recheck my email, yea, I checked all connects but never thought to check them with a volt meter until now, I'll do that. I just bought this printer Ender 3 v3 KE 4 mouths ago
Hi, I would like to ask why you don't have the first led connected to pin 1, second led to pin 2 and so on in the circuit diagram? Is there a reason or doe's it not matter which led is on which pin? Your chaser still appears to go from left to right though. I know it's a basic question but I am a beginner also and I am trying to understand completely. Thanks for sharing.
Hi, I know I find it weird also but that's the way that the 4017 ic works, It was most likely designed for a different type of circuit, so If you connect the first led to pin 1, and the second led to pin 2 and the third to pin 3, then the 6th led would light up first then the 2nd and then the 1st , it wouldn't light up like it doe's. I will put up a circuit with 20 led's (10 going one way while 10 goes the other way soon) for those that want to play around with it and make different chasers. if you want it to go from right to left, just reverse the led connections, connect led 10 to pin 3, led 9 to pin 2, led 8 to pin 4 and so on, hope that helps.
Also make sure your Potentiometer is making good contact with the breadboard, the pins on those are not that great for use on breadboards.
Muy bueno, saludos desde Barcelona España
Thank you
Add a 470 uF 25V capacitor directly next to pin 1 and 8 of the 555 timer, it will help with the stability of the oscillator. As to the 4017 not reliably clocking, you can also add a 1k resistor between pin 3 of the 555 and Vcc, as the 555 with a 5V supply often does not always have enough output drive voltage to reliably clock the 4017, needing to be within 200mV of the Vcc rail, and often with 5V not reaching much above 4V. Might work, might not always work, so at a minimum pull up needed, as the output will definitely pull down to under 300mV, even with a lamp loading it.
Resistor value here not too critical, anything from 100R to 10k will likely work, but with all sorts of manufacturers making what they call a 555 timer, but only in respect of pinout and probable ability to oscillate (remember this is one of the oldest production IC's, long out of copyright, and the production likely is in the billions per year still) so 1k likely is a good compromise.
I remember playing with that circuit back in the early 80s, when I was a teen.
Then Popular Electronics magazine published a design for an LED oscilliscope that used a new chip (the LM3914) which converted an analog voltage to a 1-of-10 output, and the 4017 for the horizontal sweep. The fun part was wiring the 10x10 grid of leds. You pretty much had to use it in a darkened room because each LED only had a 10% duty cycle at most, but it was so cool to have your own oscilliscope at all.
I'd like to get an oscilliscope but right now I can't afford it, When I search on some circuits people say that it's a must have for those messing with electronics.
Maybe if I ever reach 1000 subrscribers I'll get one
@@NevesProjects If you stick to digital electronics, it's rarely useful. For analog electronics, it's certainly a very nice to have.
My favorite device, after a digital multimeter, is an LCR tester. That way you can identify interesting components you scavenge from boards, most things with 2 or 3 pins. The ones with a ZIF (zero insertion force) socket are the most convenient to use (google for LCR TC1). Being able to measure inductance is great for figuring out scavenged coils, or if you want to wind your own.
@@ericthecyclist I'll google it, I do scrap to make an extra buck here and there and I find a lot of electronics that people throw out, some pc's and stuff that still work, so yea I'll check it out
thats awesome neves! can't wait to see your tank in action
Hey hows it going, my 3d printer broke down, I keep getting a 2509 temp sensor error, I already ordered 3 different hot ends but problem still there, I'm waiting for a hot end circuit board from aliexpress to see if that will fix it so till then the tank is on hold. I emailed you a few days ago
@NevesProjects buddy I sent an email back but never got a reply, and did you check your board on your printer and the wires? It sounds like a bad connection, since you have to open it up to replace, do a check on it and get it going sooner. If you just replace the board and get the same issue, try the wires, I've notice China uses weak wires that can wear out, they sometime don't anneal the copper on their wires during manufacturing and the wire can be stiff and break like a coat hanger when you bend it many times. I think when you finish that tank, it should be used as a museum piece for the family and the world buddy. Make a cool video when it's done, you could go viral and if you become rich, throw me a bone for setting you up lol. Your efforts and talents should be shown. Project guys always have the most intelligence, why you think we all get along lol
@@TheToolReview I'll recheck my email, yea, I checked all connects but never thought to check them with a volt meter until now, I'll do that. I just bought this printer Ender 3 v3 KE 4 mouths ago
Hi, I would like to ask why you don't have the first led connected to pin 1, second led to pin 2 and so on in the circuit diagram? Is there a reason or doe's it not matter which led is on which pin? Your chaser still appears to go from left to right though. I know it's a basic question but I am a beginner also and I am trying to understand completely. Thanks for sharing.
Hi, I know I find it weird also but that's the way that the 4017 ic works, It was most likely designed for a different type of circuit, so If you connect the first led to pin 1, and the second led to pin 2 and the third to pin 3, then the 6th led would light up first then the 2nd and then the 1st , it wouldn't light up like it doe's.
I will put up a circuit with 20 led's (10 going one way while 10 goes the other way soon) for those that want to play around with it and make different chasers.
if you want it to go from right to left, just reverse the led connections, connect led 10 to pin 3, led 9 to pin 2, led 8 to pin 4 and so on,
hope that helps.