Basics: 5 ways of getting your 3D prints to stick!
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- Опубликовано: 19 авг 2024
- Everyone's been there: Prints just not sticking to the bed or worse, coming off a few layers in after you've already left the printer to itself. Here are five easy ways, including bed leveling, to make your bed adhesion great again!
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I tried the following and it changed my life
- Precise bed calibration
- Switched to glass bed
- First Layer slow speed
- Increased base layer thickness
@Floppy the Whale Till now I have tried Two PLA and one PETG and didn't see any problem.
I bought a glass bed, but it was warped :/. I’m not sure what the point of a warped glass bed is, but apparently it was fine to some people because it got mostly 5 star reviews
@@andypandy5781 you probably got the bad one in a thousand😂
Cold bed with spray glue works EVERY time.
@@ianjacklin7282 cold bed? Mine preheats to 60
You cannot imagine how much you helped a newbie with this video. I was very close to throw the printer out of window. Now printing my abs 20mm test cube with a bottle of soda and tears :)
Thats good!
Same deal with me life saver
W8 you're using a bottle of soda for filament?
@@ramgladore Haha I thought the same thing, except soda bottles are usually PET
Same here! That's literally how I feel now 😂
"bed adhesion" - me in the mornings
Haha, if only prints stuck down that easily! :D
lol yeah
That's a good one.
Lol
I know nobody actually cares but I got 666th like so uhh nice?
I don't normally comment on videos, but this one has saved me after months of frustration with non-hatchbox PLA. Wiped my bed with acetone and over extruded the first layer, and it worked flawlessly. You da real MVP!
The best tip I ever got (after proper levelling of course) was to apply salt to the bed. You mix salt with water almost until the point of saturation, put the water on a tissue paper (but don't make it too soggy) and wipe that on the heated bed at about 70°C. The saltwater should evaporate after 3 or 4 seconds and the bed should be white and sparkle a bit under strong light. This will work better than glue stick, is cheaper and can be cleaned off in an instant. Even PETG will stick really well.
Thanks, I'll give this a try at some point
This was invaluable to me. I received my first 3D printer two days ago and it wasn't until watching THIS video that I managed to get my first successful print. THANK YOU.
My very first print was so disastrous that it drilled a hole into the bed of the printer. I had the bed too high and.... that was not good. Obviously. I thought I had it leveled but, nope. Now I know how to level it correctly and how to set things up properly, thanks in a great part to you.
I wish i could press like on this video more than once. honestly your channel has made the process of "getting to the fun part" easier. cant thank you enough
My printer came with a magnetic sandpaper-like surface that is a great low-effort adhesion surface that basically just needs a good manual leveling of the bed and slow first layer, as you mentioned.
I use lemon juice as my bed adhesion 'glue' with 60C bed temp.
I know it sounds weird, but it works great for large surface area parts in PLA. If they aren't too tall, they stick so well I can pick up the printer by the print, but after the bed cools, it's as if the print was just set on the bed; it just lifts right off.
That's pretty cool! Have you tried it for ABS?
Not yet, I doubt it will work, but I can see what happens.
Sounds awesome! Have you tried to use lemon juice without a heated bed and see if it works? This would be the cheapest alternative solution!
I don't think it works unheated. Again, I haven't tried it, but with the
ways it's been behaving with me, when the bed gets down to room
temperature (14C for me, lol), it basically loses all of its adhesive
properties. That's great for detaching after the bed cools, but for
unheated, I don't think it would work.
Maybe when i make a heater for my bed i will try it. For the moment i have found that the best solution for an unheated bed is to use uhu stick glue. It even works for small ABS parts!!!
Those first layer printer settings are gold. I have saved them as a specific config called "Toms ABS Settings". I also added at the same time mouse ears at every sharp corner for a simple print I was trying to do with ABS tthat failed 5 times in a row on a Prusa Mk3S+ (without an enclosure), and it now sticks and prints perfectly. Big thanks for this old gold.
Great tips in this video. I'm using Cura that came with my cheap $100 printer from Amazon but I'd had more than enough print failures. But sure enough Cura had a setting to reduce the print speed for the first layer. I've had more luck with this that I feel I can walk away from my printer without having to check up on it. Thanks for the video!
This is without a doubt the best video discussing print bed adhesion. Thank you Thomas!
Thank you so much Thomas! I've almost chucked my printer out of the window because my prints wouldn't stick to the build plate. Your videos help me so much!
Thank you so much!! Havent had a good print in days now without it warping off of the bed after a while. The first tip about it gowing slower and extruding more filament solved this almost instantly. I noticed the print looks cleaner at the bottom with this setting as well.
Man I went through this stage too, always thinking it was the hardware. The key is proper bed leveling, which you have to keep a eye on. Something I forget so often from flashforge auto bed leveling. What I do is spray down the board every use. Make sure I’m leveled right (just a quick eyeball check just to make sure my hot end looks close to the bed as possible, if I see air between the nozzle and bed, I adjust. I always preheat for 15-30min. But personally I only check the brim to see how closely they are on the first layer. If the lines are messed up in any way, or if I see air in any of my brim lines. That’s a automatic stop print. The build won’t stick. The brim lines should look the same every time and go down the same. I found this helpful when I was pulling my hair
Grrr!!! I hated this, as a problem, for the longest time. Researched and tried every article and video to no avail...
...the way you've put it in laymen's terms is genius, Thomas...
...Now, if it were to happen again, I would probably consider the matter my own fault. Thanks for the extremely simple and difficult lesson in self awareness (I mean: 3d printing). I've always loved the elegance of being precise and concise.
No problem, my new friend. I just call it like I see it.
One way to make the prints stick too, is to aply normal glue from a gluestick to the area where the print is printed,but not too much. I know it sounds weird but trust me it works fine!
I have used the raft function in the Marlin system all along since I found out about it. You will get a perfect bottom on your print because the whole system has settled down. You will get super adhesion.
I have excellent adhesion by printing onto a piece of masking tape. Also use four patches of tape in the corners of the bed for leveling. I'm printing ABS @ 220°
Sanding the glass plate with a grain400 sanding paper works well for me.
Print sticks perfectly to the heated bed.
Just be patient and let it cool down to 30 degree C and take it off
I've used a glass build plate w/PCB heater for nearly five years and I've used painter's tape, alcohol, etc. for improving bed adhesion. However, early on, distilled white vinegar was recommended to me and it's never let me down. Before each print, I simple saturate a small portion of a rag and wipe the entire surface. Using a dry portion of the rag, I wipe the surface dry until it literally squeaks. As they say, squeaky clean. Where many struggle with warping, corner adhesion with ABS prints, I've no issues like that. This technique also works for PLA.
First print (the sample dog) was basically perfect. Second print - NOTHING worked. Tried 3 different surface types (default pad, Creality 3D glass, Lowe’s mirror tiles), cleaned with alcohol, tried glue sticks, hairspray, repeatedly leveled the bed - first layer kept curling up.
What finally worked was increasing the bed temp by 10 degrees to 70, increasing the initial layer line width to 150 percent, increasing the filament flow and reducing the initial layer speed.
Do you have to make changes like what he did to every print file from the slicer?? Or can you tell the machine to adjust when you preheat for pla, abs etc?. I'ma complete noob
@@jackkuehneman9300 prob late, but you should be able to store these adjustments into the printer or in your sliced software-aka more RUclips!
Thank you so much for the guide have been fighting my new 3d printer for almost a week nothing would stick changed the first layer height and we are good now
85% finished vase...
Printhead hits a blob...
tears the piece off the bed and shits all over it...
fml...
I know the feeling.
I am absolutely loving these sponsored videos. Helpful information for everyone, not just the sponsor.
Calibrating layer to 0 made my prints working perfect and not getting out at build plate. This helped. :DD
Maybe you could do a series of videos, trying different bed surfaces, often even weird ones, just to see what works. I have tried printing PLA onto regular sheet paper or that carbon fibre-looking PVC foil with good results. That one guy below me says he's using lemon juice. Basically, whatever you find around your house, stick it onto the printbed and see if you can get the print to stick.
Adolf Valášek you can try with soda drinks like coca cola . You put coca cola on the bed then wipe it and after its dry the bed will be very stcky from the sugar:)).
Thank you! You helped me fix my print! I've never seen such a clean first layer for the thing I'm printing!
Hey Tom, I've been printing directly on glass now for about 2 months without any(ANY) adhesives. It occurred to me that there is no better bond than nature, so I replaced my borocilite glass with a 1/4" mirror plate I got from the hardware store, then I gave it a nice static charge with a piece of silk; rubbing it back/forward in a single direction. It holds better than anything I've tried so far! You do need to give it a little time to even the mirror temperature, and it is definitely breeze sensitive, but other than that, it works perfect every time! It works for pla and PETG but I have not tried ABS(yet) You should try it! also, send me some ABS!!
i was struggling to print the frist layer for a while and it works after watching yout video. thanks for the help
This actually solved my printing problem, many thanks Thomas!
Thanks Thomas. I've been having trouble with my Ender 3 for the last couple of weeks after 2 months of no problems. I'll try out your test prints to see what I can do about it.
Do you use a glass bed? I just assembled mine and had sliding test pieces on the magnetic spongy bed that came in the box.
Definitely my favorite 3D printing channel. Keep up the good work!
This is one of the most helpful videos ever T-T thank you! My current print's first layer is so pretty!! ^-^
this helped immensely, had been using a4 paper and getting no where, flipped my build plate over to the cleanest side, used a business card like you said, did all the setting 0 stuff in marlin gcode, and bam! perfect out the gate! now i can print a fan duct.
tried to use a rubbing alcohol based cleaner for computers, didn't help and will have to get the pure stuff for next time it needs wiped down.
Hey man, you’re really helping me out with these tips bro. I’m just a hobbyist and my prints suck, but I would like to someday print my own figures. Officially subscribed
Note that some special beds specifically state to NOT use Alcohol to clean them: PrintBite and possibly Pursa I3 Mk2. Follow the manufacture's directions to be safe
My first printer was the FlashForge Dreamer, and several recommend a business card, which was hit and miss. By profession I am a high end tool and die automation master craftsman. Since I also used to teach at National Oilwell Varco I decided to stop using paper and use a .002 Mititoyo gauge shim. This not only did the trick, but I have to wait until everything is cool or I will pull the Kapton tape off the bed with the part. I've also managed to accidentally cut thru the tape even with the blade bevel side down. Like you say first layer is everything.
Going to try this today, I've been struggling when I went from pla which worked perfect everytime to petg, but I see where this makes sense. Thank you!
Wish I’d seen this video a week ago. I was struggling for ages with the first layer and tried EVERYTHING. In the end i just had to increase the 1st layer height slightly
Thanks Tom! Good subject and a very good video as always, but this time, i wished it was a little longer :-) !! Perhaps you could go into this subject a little deeper and discuss the different options for adhesion on a per-material basis. Especially getting Nylon 12 to stick on the bed has turned out to be a big challenge for me. I have got good results with Nylon by putting down a thin even layer (0.2mm) of the water resistant version of white wood-glue (Bison) on the bed. After heating up the bed this glue hardens within minutes and lays down a beautiful transparent glass-like layer on the bed that is suitable as a good adhesive surface for ABS PLA and Nylon and even (be it a little less sturdy) for Polycarbonate. Since this glue is capable of attaching to anything that is cellulose based (such as wood) and since Nylon tends to stick to anything cellulose based, I thought I 'd give this glue a try and it turns out to be the material of my choice now for Nylon adhesion to the bed.. but I think there must be some kind of "more standard procedure" for Nylon that I still haven't heard about, because I could not find anyone else using white wood glue for Nylon, so there must be other materials that I haven't heard of that works well with Nylon I think. Perhaps you could enlighten us on this? Another material that is very interesting to print with nowadays is the earlier mentioned Polycarbonate. I now use the very expensive Buildtak surfaces for that purpose, but I wonder if there is a more DIY method for getting PC to stick to the bed. (For larger prints the Bison glue I mentioned does not work as well as Buildtak, but it still does work relatively well, and I would say good enough for most prints with a smaller footprint (up to 5x5 cm) on the bed (due to the high shrink rate of Nylon). Once again, my compliments on your videos, you are by far the most knowledgeable person on the subject of 3D printing on youtube in my opinion and I have the utmost respect for your work and the knowledge that you share with us on your channel.
This was absolutely beyond helpful thank you
Thomas, thank you so much for your very helpful tips! The video was very clear and informative and I appreciate your help! Officially subscribed!🎉😂❤
I have an print bed sticker and sometimes the filament (especially ABS) does not stuck. So I use hair gel and brush it on the bed. It works for me. Greetings from the Netherlands!
Tried all this and found out it was my own error, so just putting it here just in case someone else is going crazy like I was: Make sure you are printing with the correct line width. I was trying to print using 0.28 line width with a 0.4 nozzle. Worked fine with smaller prints, but caused a lot of problems with larger prints. Your minimum line width needs to be, at minimum, equal to your nozzle diameter.
Thank you! I had a print fail 4 times on the first layer only to discover my bed height was off by 0.05mm (I have an auto bed leveller).
I went from a heated glass bed with hair spray, (Messy!) to using Elmer's Glue Stick.
It worked, but I started pulling chips from the borosilicate glass and my bed began to look like the moon.
Finally, I tried a sheet of PEI and not only did it cover the craters in the glass, but worked wonders for ABS sticking to the bed.
I was printing large objects that would go beyond the heating element under the glass.
The temperature would drop drastically beyond the element and I was getting bed separation.
The PEI solved that. It seems to keep ABS stuck to the bed at lower temps. Even down to 70º C.
Thanks for this; really good tips to try. My Ender 3 was working great but now will not stick, I will give this all a go! Glue stick, who knew?!!!
I love the dinosaur u were printing, is my most common print
this is exactly what I was looking for!
PLA + GLUE STICK 100% ADHESION. THKS
Sorry for the late reply. Can you tell me if you included heated beds in the equation? Because my heated bed just stopped responding and i am forced to print on a cold glass + gluestick. I haven't tried yet but i'm having such a low morale because of the heated bed, so i require more time. Please tell me if glass + gluestick will do the trick . Thank you very much and sorry for bothering you after 7 months since your comment.
I don’t know about glue stick+ glass bed, but I have a glass bed on my printer, and I use hairspray on it. It works great; the prints stick really nicely, and (as long as you don’t apply too much) it comes off pretty easier afterwards.
When printing an object with a large square surface, and printer moves diagonally to fill, i get filament rising slightly between lines - like a landscape. I suspect this is due to filament being squished out and pushing the previous line which then rises. I am going to try following fix/calibration: Set first layer thickness, e.g. 0.2mm. Start printing, stop when a line has been laid. Use a micrometer to measure thickness of line - then live adjust difference to get precisely 0.2mm thickness in next print. Repeat and remeasure to take into account material squished upward first run. Then print the part. This should make the material squish the exact extrusion width and produce a smooth surface. Final factor is extrusion multiplier, this has to be correctly calibrated for this to work since otherwise the width will differ even if layer height is perfect. Suggest printing a tall H (10mm) where middle measures 1mm in cad, with two perimiters each 0.5mm. Measure thickness with micrometer and calibrate the difference as this indicates over/under extrusion. Agreed anyone?
I found the best ever adhesion is obtained by using acetate sheet stuck (or clipped) to the bed with glue stick. And the best ones are those meant for inkjet printers with a bluish coating on one side (coating on print side). Those meant for laser printer (no coating) are excellent but difficult to unstick.
Love your channnel :)
I'm about to buy my first 3D printer and i really enjoy all your videos!
Happy holidays to you and all your family!
Keep it the great job and all the best for 2017 :)
Before first leveling I usually adjust my bed endstops because for the most cheap printers springs are too loose.
So far my test friends have come out perfect I'm printing something a lot bigger with more dimension 8017 lower receiver the two hours I noticed it wasn't sticking it would bent so I stopped it and now I'm doing it again this time I'm adding little drops of crazy glue on the corners to make it stick during the process it's working very very well
Thanks again for another awesome video, Tom!
Haha, printing the low poly bulbasaur. I've printed that enough times to know what the first layers look like
Old tricks but always good to know, be reminded of and for others to find out about.
If you see it and still regually use glue sticks, try Elmer's 'disappearing purple' as it seems to work better than the normal stuff.
(Switched from Uhu to that when there was a shortage some time bacl. Don't like the smell and I liked that the Uhu was German, but the purple one outperforms. The normal not so much. At least on glass with 100c first layer printing ABS)
Only thing I've never found out how to get to stick is 'FlexPLA'. That sticks to /nothing/. Closest is buildtak running hot.)
Hi everybody, I print on the glass bed and for me the best solution for good adhesion is ... WATER WITH SUGAR. Just before printing I wipe the warm bed (50-60 deg C) with cloth soaked sweet water. After 1 minute you have thin sticky layer on your bed - IT WORKS GREAT !
its 4:30 am and im still at my ender 3 trying to tune my first layer. ahh the joys of 3d printing!
Same lol
Thanks for the video. I'm just starting out and this info helps out a lot.
I have the prusa print that you used and I could never get anything to stick to it so I used painters tape and I wipe it down with a towel after every print and it works great!
Thank you so much for helping me
Thank you for sharing Tom.
This is going to help a massively.
Great tips! Thank you!
Very good advises my friend thank you 👍🏻😀
I leave this under every video I watched, it helps the algorithm..
Sanded glass works very well for me.(using PETG)
You can take this guy's advice or mine. Don't change the settings for the first layer in your slicer! That's just plan stupid. Learn what M220 does. Normally on the first layer I go m220 s 20 then after I might go M220 S50 for the second layer and then bring everything back up to full speed with m220 s 100. Also on the first layer I might increase the extrusion with m221 s 140. Then bring it back to normal with m221s100. Also I might change the z height which typically is Z 0.02 to Z0.009 with the machines I'm using. but this one you have to be F-ing careful with this setting. Start with Z0.018 snd slowly go down. And see what kind of squish you get. If you're layer is putting down a string of filament you're way too high. But if it's squishing it flat spreading it out you got to be careful. Also I use m140 to change the bed temperature. That way I can go from 60c at the start of the print to say 40c after the first three or four layers.
This way you can use almost any slicer you want to get the first layer correctly.
Dale
Klasse Tipps, kurz und knackig !
it help me a lot. tank you
Really helpful, Thomas! Thank You!
Thank you
very helpful
Hi guys, the mirror never worked for me but I saw a video on RUclips that recommended polycarbonate sheet and it worked so good that I had difficulty releasing my print from the sheet. Cheers
Nice this fixed my problems
I'm a hairspray guy. It's basically a witch's brew of nylon, polyurethane, and acrylic. Inexpensive, easy to apply in a super thin coat, and simple to clean up. But yeah, level your bed and tune your temps and speeds.
John Girotti It's awesome on glass, I never got it to work on aluminium I use uhu gluestick on that
John Girotti I use hair spray on unheated bed covered with kapton tape to print PLA, worked well for a lot of parts now not sticking anymore my printer is quite hobby like . older Printrbot . Usually brim from Cura is much better than brim from slic3r as it surrounds all the contours . I will try the over ectruded first layer on unheated kapton to see how that goes . Anybody know how to set fill in cura parallel to x or y not diagonslly ? my printer vibrated like crazy on diagonal infill
It can be difficult, to the point of frustration, to use on metal build plates. Who wants to put multiple layers of adherent down? The only aluminum plate I use now has a chemically etched surface that has pretty good adherence, even dry. The problem I run into with it is the high heat transfer rate, so I only use it heated, with skirts or mouse ears. I do use glue stick occasionally, mostly for prints that only use a small portion of the plate. It's kept in the fridge. It seems to lay a thinner, more consistent coat when chilled. Also, it's minty. Who doesn't like a fresh-smelling print?
I run what started as a Simple 2013 (#4698!) on a daily basis. Try a couple prints without the Kapton. I'm going to assume you are using Cura 2.3.1. In the "Print Setup" sidebar to the right, click on the "Custom" button. Hover your mouse over "Infill" and you should see a gear icon. Click the icon to open the "Infill" settings. Expand the menu listing and you'll see "Infill Pattern." Make sure the box is checked. Close the "Preferences" pop-up. You should now have the "Infill Pattern" pull-down menu in the menu, right underneath "Infill Density." Also, consider lowering the X and Y acceleration speeds.
John Girotti Ok hope I find it great !
6 years ago? The Bambu Lab 3d printer I have now does bed leveling and measuring of heights. What's frustrating is all the fans being maxed out by default. After lowering their speeds, the warmer filament seems to be sticking to the plate better. Still playing with settings though.
Awesome!! I have been having issues with stick.
thankyou, 1st layer width fix it for me,~
Why didn't I found this video when I started printing? xD Really helpfull man thank you ;D
Level you bed perfectly, for PLA heat bed to 60° and nozzle to 196°, print on glass. That's all! On my CR10S prints come out perfectly. No glue nor tape.
All great advice! Keep up the good work.
Keep up with the good work, Gaylord!
Why do I have great bed adhesion when i wake up but little before i sleep
Thomas, I used to print on glass, PLA is OK, but never got it to stick with ABS, I even pushed the bed to 130 degree, still did not work. Also tried kapton tape, blue tape, glue stick, spray, still not satisfied with results. Then I tried to 3D print on Acrylic Sheet (got it from here: www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.clear-acrylic-sheet---220-inch-x-18-inch-x-24-inch.1000126448.html ), and I LOVE IT!! You have to print on a cold bed because the sheet bends a lot with heat. My prints stick to it really well! I broke a few parts because I could not remove them. You have to get the first layer perfect, if it's too squished, you can't remove the part, it becomes one with the Acrylic Sheet. ABS sticks well, but corners still bend, so brim solves the problem. But considering that it's on cold bed, I think it's awesome! Please TRY IT!! TRY IT !! TRY IT !!
Try print on beer on the glass. I'm really happy with this method. Prints with ABS at 240 deg. C, and 105 deg. C for the bed.
Since I print on Acrylic Sheet, I don't need a heated bed. I print ABS at 240 deg C, and heated bed is OFF
But how many prints will withstand your acrylic sheet? And they cost money. And this problems with prints, that sticks to the sheet...
I've been using it for over a month, so it's hard to say. I printed about 30 parts on it, all of them in the center of the bed, and so far no sign of degradation. Yes it costs money, but it's not that much considering the money I spent on other things I have tried that did not work. Also the sheet in the link above it's quite big, you can probably cut out 6 smaller sheets 20cm by 20 cm for the 3D printer. And if it does loose stickiness over time, you can use the other side also. Also... you can use sand paper, to remove a tiny layer, and make the surface abrasive for even better stickiness. The way I see it, the sheet I am using right now, it should last for quite some time, a year or more... I don't know... but it looks promising so far. About "problems with prints, that sticks to the sheet"; once you get that first layer to be at the correct height, then every part will print perfect, and have moderate stickiness. The Acrylic Sheet is flexible, so after I print, I take it out of the printer, bend the sheet to unstick parts of the print, then I use a cutter to insert the blade in between to remove / unstick the rest. Look... I don't sell this Acrylic Sheet, I am not trying to benefit from it... I just want to share my success with what I have tried, because I am really happy with this solution. It's up to you to try it, and spread the word...
This is good result! I was thinking that one sheet last about 2-3 prints maximum. :) Thanks, must try it in this case. :)
BuildTak + 25C bed temp for PLA seems to work pretty well :)
xKatjaxPurrsx 45 to 60 c is best
Nice explanation. It helps me.
Hi Tom
I have a Folgertech FT-5 printer. If the printer is setup good then its a very nice printer.
My 1st layer is sticking very well to my glassplate with a sheet of capton & some hairspray.
Also my BLTouch did work like magic. It took a long time to find out how to use it but now it's working very well.
My 1st layer sticks very good to the bed. However i do have another problem.
My support is not sticking to the baselayers.
The main structure (the part itself) prints very well but the support is not sticking in all places on the baselayer (raft or any flat printed part).
There are parts of the support that do stick but after a while the nozle drags the support lose. That's when i get garbage.
These are my settings:
Filament:PetG, Nozle:0.4mm, Multiplier:1.0
Temps: Nozle:220 c, Bed:60 c., Fan:0% on 1st layer then at 100%.
Primary Layer : LayerHeight:0.1500, Top/Bottomlayers:4, OutlineShells:3(Inside-Out),
1st Layer : Height:90%, With:100%, Speed:50%
Additions: Skirt: 2 layers, offset:0 (directly to part), Outlines: 15 (about 6mm). (So on the edge of the print there is a 0.3mm thick layer of 0.6mm outside the print. This acts as a sort of raft and works very well). So i don't use a raft if not needed.
Infill: Full Honicomb, Concentric, Interior Fill Percentage:10%, Outline Overlap: 15%, Infill Extrusion With:100%, Min.Infill Length:5mm, Print Sparse Infill Every:1 layers, Incl. Solid Diaphragm every:20 layers [active], Print every infill angle on each layer:[active]
Support: 20%, Extra Inflation Distance:2mm, Dense Support Layers:10, Dense Infill Perc.: 80%, Print support after every: 1 layers, Support Type:Normal, Support Pillar Resolution:10mm, Max.Overhang Angle:45deg., Angles: 0-45-135.
I hope these settings are enough to see where it goes wrong. If you need more info please ask.
Can you, or anyone else please help me?
Thank you
This helped a lot thanks
i heat bed to 80, put a layer of hot melt glue on bed...then turn off heat all-together, wait till it hits under 40 then print...with cold bed cura bed set to 0...when you have finished print heat up again to 80 then remove...simple..
You made my day! Thanks!
Some printers actually do have a sensor so they can detect when the nozzle is touching the bed.
having bed adhesion problems now.... using an Ender magnetic bed on an anycubic mega zero.
sugestions are welkom.
I've been trying to print a new phone case for a week, the print just won't stick. I'm using this video to fix it.
Can you show us a close up video of your Display Settings how to change the temperature for the print. I can get the temp up to 220 in the settings but when it starts printing, the Temp drops down to 200. I wanna be able to make it print at 220 because the Filament isn't sticking and it's blobbing up out of the extruder tip. Thanks
concetric infill could halp too
i go as low as i can get away with on my anet a8, It has a glass bed, and the first layer is so thin It is transparent, my prints stick very well and look amazing, but It took 7 months of fiddling on my anet till i became a master at it
for some reason this had the opposite effect on my ender 5 and im stuck calibrating it all day again now
Funnily its normally the 2nd or 3rd layer which gets me. 1st layer goes down fine, then the 2nd might have some problem approaching one corner and then the 3rd is a disaster. Even if I diligently level every corner it seems to happen. Fortunately most of my prints the 3rd layer is on the inside of something so it doesn't matter and usually it improves a bit after that.
Thanks so much it worked like a charm :)