Its even easier to hot-air the new chip back on, all pins soldered at once, gets pulled into place by surface tension, so long as enough flux is used. However sometimes hot-air blows components around which is annoying.
glad found your channel. amp repair is a great way to learn how these things work. also assists purchasing decisions. the other channel only speaks portuguese. these pesky american company car audio amplifiers seem unnecessarily complex compared to a well laid out korean board.
Kev, halleluijah, finally someone who knows what their doing. Have you worked on any of the PMP series Behringers (mixers/desks) ps, use a thinner solder, i.e. .2mm for small pins such as the DIL8
Great job Kevin, love to see your work...They are very inspiring. Thanks for the vid. What camera system do you use? I like the way you switch from different views. Looking to buy some cameras and your advice would be great.
Good video.. I found that I’m having some trouble with my jl “a” series. It seems to have some feed back when ever I adjust the sensitivity. Skipping in and out of the 1&2 channnels. I’ve seen that other people are having similar issue with their same amps. Seem like it’s came lose due to use over time. I need to check into it more closer, I’d hate to buy another one.
Thanks for The tips on the punch800a2 problem I did what you said and I'm geting 11.28v DC from outer shield of rca input to +power in put and 0.28vdc from outer shield to -input power and also I forgot to mention a damaged diode that is all that's visually damaged on this amp.
It's nice how you show how to proprely replace an IC taking care of not dammaging the board and redundant components, keeping the pads flux-wet, just beautiful!! , but, it also seems impractical to take thaaaaat much time to change an IC, i hope it's just for the show, really Clean!!! i can do the swap that you did from 8:20 to 17:30 in 2 or 3 minutes, anyways, really neat job you did there! :D
@@The_Active_Region I didn't mean it in that way, of course what you did is everything but dumb, sorry for using the word dumb, i'm the only dumb here! haha, what i mean is that from my experience, it seems impractical to take 13 minutes to change 1 IC using the same method for a damaged part, and a good part, so what i would do to remove the bad part is just heat the entire pads,alternating between both sides with a controlled temperature iron and a flat tip, and go all over the pins adding just enough solder for thermal mass until the chip is released, this takes not more than 20 seconds, then i would go on with the solder wick and clean the pads as you did, keeping it all flux-wet like you did, and then i would clean it with isopropylAlchl, like you did, then , for the good part, all being cleaned, i put the ic in possition then i solder 2 corner pads, then i make sure it is aligned, once aligned , and with a flat iron i add solder all over the pads, and then with solder wick clean the excess, this gives you a reflow finish to your end fix, and at the end clean it with isopropylAlchl, of course, like you did, try it, and tell me how it goes. Cheers! i like your channel! :D
I've done it that way as well. It all depends on how I want to do it at the moment. Sometimes the re flow method might add more heat than needed to the new IC and can be a small bit riskier with bad or cold solder joints if not done properly.
@The Active Region Hi. Is it normal that when this board is out of the heatsink that the 2x KA7812 get pretty warm but everything else stays cool? (normally bolted somewhere between all the the other transistors to the heat sink). Great video!
Hey, I always enjoy watching these tutorials. May I trouble you with a tiny little question??? I have a MM2000.1D amplifier that I accidently inserted the rca input into rca line out..... The amp still powers on normal with no protect but of course no sound. If you could steer me to the correct section to troubleshoot I should be able to repair it. For example the pre-amps? the PWM card?? any advice would help. Thanks in advance!!!
if you know anyone in wisconsin that repairs amps i have about 40 or more amps that need to be fixed , im tempted to try myself but i dont have steady hands for soldering , i think i even have all the equipment to do repairs in storage , would take me a day to setup a bench probably , i do subwoofer repair but its totally different
I may want to talk with you, I have a 1990's pioneer that who ever wired it to the battery only used a 15 mp fuse it wud blow if i listened loud for more than 15 mins so I put in a 20 amp fuse inline and now the amp will only go up a little before it cuts out like in protection mode Im going to put a inline 40 tube style fuse but whatever went wrong wont let me turn it up
I have a jbl amp that has 4 fuses well i hooked it up right but it blows fuses soon as i put them in i think its a 5 channel amp i didnt see any burnt spots
Hi Kev How how much would you charge to repair My Rockford Fostgate T2000/1bd and T800/4bd amps? I got stewed by a shop out here in Los Angeles would really like your help
Is that a schematic of the amp on your screen? Any chance I might get a copy of that from you? I'm studying class D amps and that would def help me better understand how that technology works. It looks very similar to the systems and parts used in 12v to 120vac power inverters that employ true sine wave outputs.
Maybe a stupid question but new at this. When cleaning with alcohol and toothbrush at 17.25 to 17.34 looks like you use something absorbent. What is this?? Thanks.
Hiiii...i have a jbl gt5 a604.. It was playing well but since 1 week... It has stopped.... When music is played in the stereo.. The sound plays for a sec and stop for like a minute... It continues like... Thinking if the radio is faulty.. I connected the speakers to the same and it played flawlessly... So am sure the problem is with the amp.. Do you have a solution for me please. Thanks.. Great video btw..
Hello Mr Kev31779 I have an older Rockford Fosgate Punch 200A4 I recently purchased 2nd hand it's a VERY clean looking for it's age but I think the previous owner may have ran the rear channels at a load lower than recommended. When I hook the amp up to a battery and head unit (no engine running) you can hear a high pitch coming out of the speakers at any volume even at 0 with nothing playing when the amp's crossover switch is on full or high. I'm wondering if you'd be willing to fix it. Please send me a message on here if we can do this.
Hi.. I have a JBL GTO 804ez 4 channel Class AB Amplifier, out of the 4 channels, 3 channels are doing good. But one channel (Rear Right) it plays but lacks power & noise in it. I am not sure, whats wrong in it. I have opened and checked, seems all the electronics good, I dont see any burnt of any electronics inside. Also, checked the FETs, seems good. What could be the issue? Please suggest
Class D Is more complicated with that. It is somewhat combined width a pulse with modulated signal. Then filtered. Some reading here if you like. www.maximintegrated.com/en/app-notes/index.mvp/id/3977
Dear sir i have rockmars 3000watt car amplifire when I give battery current its on for a second immediately its p55nf06 transistor dead I replaced that transistor but same process again all output transistor are ok
my father in law placed my ground on positive and ground on positive cause he was using all same color now amp blown how can I fix thanks guys for any feed back
Thanks for replying I honestly feel vary honored to have a chance to converse with you.Let me give you some more insight on the issue I'm having with this amp.I accedently for got to connect the ground input power to the amplifier first as I was connecting the amp to the out put phono to rca jack of flat screen witch I don't recommend doing and as I was going to connect the first rca to amp rca input stage the rca outer shield sparked and it took out the flat screen and Killed the amp but luckily I think my switching psu of my is still operating as i tested it and it is drawing about 3amps initial and sitals down to about 1amp constent draw. And I can hear stand by sound though the speaker that's connected to amp meaning that sound you hear when you have no audio tone going though the speakers but if you crank up the volume the hiss gets louder its like a light hiss but it's not distortion I hope you understand what I'm referring to. But when I go to connect the rcas as soon as they toch inputs of amp it cuts out like there's some type of short.Thanks in advance I'm wondering if I fried the opamps.
It might be possible that the op amps may have took a hit but I would check to see when the amp is powered on if you have DC voltage from the power supply ground to the outer shield of the RCA. It should be under a volt or nothing. If high DC is present there you may have some digging to do. You could have a cracked mica insulator on a Mosfet somewhere or something shorting to RCA ground. Without fully understanding the situation or not having a schematic, its hard to tell you what to look for.
Kev31779 Thanks for your help I appreciate it enormously.im just going to change out every single opamp I checked voltage on em and I'm only geting -1v amp running and I have about 20v going in to that section I hope I'm right I have 2 more rockford amps. for spear parts and I checked the other rockford running and it shows voltage on some of the pins on those opamps but none on the dead evil rockford 800a2 lol sorry to bother so much befor a change them out is there a another way I.Can check those opamps for function with a dmm.
Dear friend,I have 800w class D pioneer car subwoofer.It is not working now.I have measured internal voltage.voltage is fluctuate.can you advice what parts should I check ?
I have this amplifier and it is not a Class D. It is a Class AB. It's rated only for 2ohms. I hear you can run it at 1ohm tho. Highly underrated amplifier. Would like to see a dyno test on one.
@@The_Active_Region So I actually discovered it was being advertised incorrectly as AB. But JBL notified sellers site that it is a class D. I wonder if it is 1 ohm stable?
pop quiz - I have a class a/b amplifier for a year. one day at a street light, on low volume, my speakers decided to go crazy, popping and loud noises. turned off remote power and went to the fuse to the battery and the fuse housing was slightly melted. fuse was hot af, but not blown. my class d is fine, but the a/b has the "clip" light on even though remote power is off. any possible explanation?
bjtaudio Could have been too heavy a load, but things just fail sometimes, and when there’s problems in the drive output stage it will usually take other things with it.
Have you ever repaired a Harman kardon avr 7000 home receiver? I'm looking at repairing this myself as there aren't any repair shops where I live that could fix this. this model has a known dts board problem and has 6.3v caps that tend to swell up due to heat from being so close to 5v. from what I've heard/read is to replace them with 10v caps same capacitance 1000uf but 10v. what are your thoughts on this. I really love this receiver it's rated at 110 Watts per channel and 75 amps of high current. which is pretty beefy. let me know your thoughts on this and if I could pick your brain if I have any issues.
How can I get in touch with you? I've just replaced some fets. Can I test the amp without having the board attached to the case thermal pasted down? Would I get a power light if I don't? One of my fets of the 6 I replaced have a way different ohms reading while on the board.
I have this amp and love it, definitely a beast. Do you have an idea on how much power they actually produce? Also I've always thought it was a class ab amp, thanks for clarifying
supposed to be around 1400 or 1500 RMS, you can make It go to 1 ohm, watch the bare vids vid on it! Don't forget that there are people out there testing RMS in different ways. I think it's standard to test it at a certain % distortion at 510khz perhaps or something like this but some of these guys are testing at 40Hz and stuff like sweeping bass waves. Makes more sense to compare what is relevant in that frequency range they are working with but it's not a way to compare how we talk about classic RMS in the ~HIFi world etc. It's like they are creating a new standard for the world of what works with bass.
One of the amplifier fets shorted from source or drain to the gate pin causing it to kill the IC driving them. Whenever something shorts to gate it is never a good sign and could cause driving issues. How the fet died I have no idea. Maybe over driving, loose heat sink screws or just a part ready to fail.
@@The_Active_Region Yes!!, whenever there is a breakdown voltage reached betweet Gate and source (Vgs), there is no way of bringing back that FET, that is why it is so important to have Calmping diodes between these two pins to prevent any excessive level of (Vgs), hence keeping it below breakdown levels! check for instance the datasheet for The MOSFET STP7NK80ZFP, and look at how the dioes are clamping voltages between Gate and Source.
No, is class D. One website mislabeled it as class AB when they got it confused with the GTO1004. If you watch this video you'll see clearly it is a class D in fullbridge with high side bootstrap, 2010 class D mosfet driver and so on.
So probably more efficient than the average class a/b? I recently bought one used which is why i ask. Thanks for the reply by the way. I watch all your repair videos
Anunaki atlantis When you’re removing a bad chip its not so relevant how long you heat it. Long enough to remove it. He was also at different distances for even heat.
This was like watching bob ross paint and the accent was a bonus amazing video man just awesome to see you work
That’s some craftsmanship right there. I can tell you take pride man. True G...
A very good workbench.Sir you are a skilled engineer. Demonstration is highly informative.Thanks a lot.
hey thank for sharing ur work with us, u make it look so easy to do but it takes a lot a knowledge and know how keep up the good work brother
Sone of finest work i ever saw-congrats buddy you are real pro...
You make soldering those tiny pins look so easy! I'd have blobs touching all the pins and give up.. Great video.
Its even easier to hot-air the new chip back on, all pins soldered at once, gets pulled into place by surface tension, so long as enough flux is used. However sometimes hot-air blows components around which is annoying.
Keep up the good work sir thank you for sharing that video with me i appreciate it very much and you work very clean i like that.
Great video and work!
Very lovely nice work done like it thks r great videof
glad found your channel. amp repair is a great way to learn how these things work. also assists purchasing decisions. the other channel only speaks portuguese. these pesky american company car audio amplifiers seem unnecessarily complex compared to a well laid out korean board.
Excellent video and explanation concerning the diagnose and repair,..
great work kevin
Great Job as usual !! thx for post
Another interesting video Kev :D. Ps: try to soldering minifal on that's smd components
Ótimo vídeo
Kev, halleluijah, finally someone who knows what their doing. Have you worked on any of the PMP series Behringers (mixers/desks) ps, use a thinner solder, i.e. .2mm for small pins such as the DIL8
Great job Kevin, love to see your work...They are very inspiring. Thanks for the vid. What camera system do you use? I like the way you switch from different views. Looking to buy some cameras and your advice would be great.
nice video sir
Good job 👍
Good video.. I found that I’m having some trouble with my jl “a” series. It seems to have some feed back when ever I adjust the sensitivity. Skipping in and out of the 1&2 channnels. I’ve seen that other people are having similar issue with their same amps. Seem like it’s came lose due to use over time. I need to check into it more closer, I’d hate to buy another one.
What are some of the best 4 Channel amps you could recommend for great SQ. I was looking for one that has a 100Wx4 RMS min
it is a nice amp
Thanks for The tips on the punch800a2 problem I did what you said and I'm geting 11.28v DC from outer shield of rca input to +power in put and 0.28vdc from outer shield to -input power and also I forgot to mention a damaged diode that is all that's visually damaged on this amp.
The voltages seem normal but not the diode issue.
Another awesome video. I miss your videos. Come back!
Nice!
For what I was paying for solder wick, I moved brands to Chem-wik by chemtronics, less than $20 for 50 feet, the best I have ever used!
good one
It's nice how you show how to proprely replace an IC taking care of not dammaging the board and redundant components, keeping the pads flux-wet, just beautiful!! , but, it also seems impractical to take thaaaaat much time to change an IC, i hope it's just for the show, really Clean!!! i can do the swap that you did from 8:20 to 17:30 in 2 or 3 minutes, anyways, really neat job you did there! :D
Not dumb to take time to properly repair a paying persons amp. I don't want to see it again, but thanks.
@@The_Active_Region I didn't mean it in that way, of course what you did is everything but dumb, sorry for using the word dumb, i'm the only dumb here! haha, what i mean is that from my experience, it seems impractical to take 13 minutes to change 1 IC using the same method for a damaged part, and a good part, so what i would do to remove the bad part is just heat the entire pads,alternating between both sides with a controlled temperature iron and a flat tip, and go all over the pins adding just enough solder for thermal mass until the chip is released, this takes not more than 20 seconds, then i would go on with the solder wick and clean the pads as you did, keeping it all flux-wet like you did, and then i would clean it with isopropylAlchl, like you did, then , for the good part, all being cleaned, i put the ic in possition then i solder 2 corner pads, then i make sure it is aligned, once aligned , and with a flat iron i add solder all over the pads, and then with solder wick clean the excess, this gives you a reflow finish to your end fix, and at the end clean it with isopropylAlchl, of course, like you did, try it, and tell me how it goes. Cheers! i like your channel! :D
I've done it that way as well. It all depends on how I want to do it at the moment. Sometimes the re flow method might add more heat than needed to the new IC and can be a small bit riskier with bad or cold solder joints if not done properly.
@The Active Region Hi. Is it normal that when this board is out of the heatsink that the 2x KA7812 get pretty warm but everything else stays cool? (normally bolted somewhere between all the the other transistors to the heat sink). Great video!
Hey, I always enjoy watching these tutorials. May I trouble you with a tiny little question??? I have a MM2000.1D amplifier that I accidently inserted the rca input into rca line out..... The amp still powers on normal with no protect but of course no sound. If you could steer me to the correct section to troubleshoot I should be able to repair it. For example the pre-amps? the PWM card?? any advice would help.
Thanks in advance!!!
if you know anyone in wisconsin that repairs amps i have about 40 or more amps that need to be fixed , im tempted to try myself but i dont have steady hands for soldering , i think i even have all the equipment to do repairs in storage , would take me a day to setup a bench probably , i do subwoofer repair but its totally different
hey I got an orion cobalt not powering on but has voltage inside 12v and 30v...any ideas?
deja vu! you Literally JUST posted a video replacing almost the same thing.
I know, you begin to see a pattern.
I have a Rockford fosgate 2400 punch amplifier needs repair just wondering if you could fix it
I may want to talk with you, I have a 1990's pioneer that who ever wired it to the battery only used a 15 mp fuse it wud blow if i listened loud for more than 15 mins so I put in a 20 amp fuse inline and now the amp will only go up a little before it cuts out like in protection mode Im going to put a inline 40 tube style fuse but whatever went wrong wont let me turn it up
I have a jbl amp that has 4 fuses well i hooked it up right but it blows fuses soon as i put them in i think its a 5 channel amp i didnt see any burnt spots
My amp blew a resistors thing its behind the 4 round things there can i just solder a new resister in my amp is stuck in protect till that went out
I got the same problem on my mohawk class D monoblock... help me up.... please...
Great videos short question I found continuity between -ground power input of rockford p800a2 and outer shield of rca inputs.no rca signal connected
Might be normal but not sure on that amp.
Hi Kev How how much would you charge to repair My Rockford Fostgate T2000/1bd and T800/4bd amps? I got stewed by a shop out here in Los Angeles would really like your help
Is the gate drive always present without a input signal.
👍👍👍
Is that a schematic of the amp on your screen? Any chance I might get a copy of that from you? I'm studying class D amps and that would def help me better understand how that technology works. It looks very similar to the systems and parts used in 12v to 120vac power inverters that employ true sine wave outputs.
hi Kevin, old post... any chance of a HCA9001 datasheet?
Maybe a stupid question but new at this. When cleaning with alcohol and toothbrush at 17.25 to 17.34 looks like you use something absorbent. What is this?? Thanks.
Hiiii...i have a jbl gt5 a604.. It was playing well but since 1 week... It has stopped.... When music is played in the stereo.. The sound plays for a sec and stop for like a minute... It continues like... Thinking if the radio is faulty.. I connected the speakers to the same and it played flawlessly... So am sure the problem is with the amp.. Do you have a solution for me please. Thanks..
Great video btw..
Hi kev,,where do you do these vorks,are you in usa or brittain.
i have some old school ab a,ps i need to get repaired..
interrested ?
How much well u change too fix my AMP and can you put fan of it IF possible
Hello Mr Kev31779 I have an older Rockford Fosgate Punch 200A4 I recently purchased 2nd hand it's a VERY clean looking for it's age but I think the previous owner may have ran the rear channels at a load lower than recommended. When I hook the amp up to a battery and head unit (no engine running) you can hear a high pitch coming out of the speakers at any volume even at 0 with nothing playing when the amp's crossover switch is on full or high. I'm wondering if you'd be willing to fix it. Please send me a message on here if we can do this.
Its simple if you have the manufactures schematic blueprint
I was wondering if you can help me with a amp question thanks
Hi.. I have a JBL GTO 804ez 4 channel Class AB Amplifier, out of the 4 channels, 3 channels are doing good. But one channel (Rear Right) it plays but lacks power & noise in it. I am not sure, whats wrong in it. I have opened and checked, seems all the electronics good, I dont see any burnt of any electronics inside. Also, checked the FETs, seems good. What could be the issue? Please suggest
Are those the power supply mosfets u replaced?
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍✌✌✌✌✌✌✌
Hey how do you get your repair schematics or service manuals ?
my jbl bass power speaker model EON618S no power but the fuse no damage?
Just one thing I don't quite get. Mustn't you have a signal present at the inputs in order to see that squarewave at the FET gates?
Class D Is more complicated with that. It is somewhat combined width a pulse with modulated signal. Then filtered.
Some reading here if you like.
www.maximintegrated.com/en/app-notes/index.mvp/id/3977
Which site do you get your shematic diagrams bro????
Dear sir i have rockmars 3000watt car amplifire when I give battery current its on for a second immediately its p55nf06 transistor dead I replaced that transistor but same process again all output transistor are ok
my father in law placed my ground on positive and ground on positive cause he was using all same color now amp blown how can I fix thanks guys for any feed back
Thanks for replying I honestly feel vary honored to have a chance to converse with you.Let me give you some more insight on the issue I'm having with this amp.I accedently for got to connect the ground input power to the amplifier first as I was connecting the amp to the out put phono to rca jack of flat screen witch I don't recommend doing and as I was going to connect the first rca to amp rca input stage the rca outer shield sparked and it took out the flat screen and Killed the amp but luckily I think my switching psu of my is still operating as i tested it and it is drawing about 3amps initial and sitals down to about 1amp constent draw. And I can hear stand by sound though the speaker that's connected to amp meaning that sound you hear when you have no audio tone going though the speakers but if you crank up the volume the hiss gets louder its like a light hiss but it's not distortion I hope you understand what I'm referring to. But when I go to connect the rcas as soon as they toch inputs of amp it cuts out like there's some type of short.Thanks in advance I'm wondering if I fried the opamps.
It might be possible that the op amps may have took a hit but I would check to see when the amp is powered on if you have DC voltage from the power supply ground to the outer shield of the RCA. It should be under a volt or nothing. If high DC is present there you may have some digging to do. You could have a cracked mica insulator on a Mosfet somewhere or something shorting to RCA ground. Without fully understanding the situation or not having a schematic, its hard to tell you what to look for.
Kev31779 Thanks for your help I appreciate it enormously.im just going to change out every single opamp I checked voltage on em and I'm only geting -1v amp running and I have about 20v going in to that section I hope I'm right I have 2 more rockford amps. for spear parts and I checked the other rockford running and it shows voltage on some of the pins on those opamps but none on the dead evil rockford 800a2 lol sorry to bother so much befor a change them out is there a another way I.Can check those opamps for function with a dmm.
hey what outputs this amp uses?
What adhesive/glue is safe for amplifier board if I wanted to glue around some parts inside? Something that's also safe for high temps?
Pure Silicone
Dear friend,I have 800w class D pioneer car subwoofer.It is not working now.I have measured internal voltage.voltage is fluctuate.can you advice what parts should I check ?
Thanks Kevin. Are you using a audio signal generator or a function generator?
I use an arbitrary waveform generator. Either type would work.
Excellent job where do you get your schematics?
I just dig around on google. Sometimes I get lucky, sometimes not.
I have this amplifier and it is not a Class D. It is a Class AB. It's rated only for 2ohms. I hear you can run it at 1ohm tho. Highly underrated amplifier. Would like to see a dyno test on one.
Hmm bizarre. From what I remember it had class D pre-drive circuits. Only worked on one of these models so I don't know the amp all that well.
@@The_Active_Region
So I actually discovered it was being advertised incorrectly as AB. But JBL notified sellers site that it is a class D. I wonder if it is 1 ohm stable?
pop quiz - I have a class a/b amplifier for a year. one day at a street light, on low volume, my speakers decided to go crazy, popping and loud noises. turned off remote power and went to the fuse to the battery and the fuse housing was slightly melted. fuse was hot af, but not blown. my class d is fine, but the a/b has the "clip" light on even though remote power is off. any possible explanation?
Bugs Bunnay High current failure of some kind. Would require inspection/diagnostics.
But the question what caused the mosfet(s)? to fail in the first place, and as usual it takes out the low and high side driver ic too.
bjtaudio Could have been too heavy a load, but things just fail sometimes, and when there’s problems in the drive output stage it will usually take other things with it.
Yes it certainly does, it can make an expensive mess..
Have you ever repaired a Harman kardon avr 7000 home receiver? I'm looking at repairing this myself as there aren't any repair shops where I live that could fix this. this model has a known dts board problem and has 6.3v caps that tend to swell up due to heat from being so close to 5v. from what I've heard/read is to replace them with 10v caps same capacitance 1000uf but 10v. what are your thoughts on this. I really love this receiver it's rated at 110 Watts per channel and 75 amps of high current. which is pretty beefy. let me know your thoughts on this and if I could pick your brain if I have any issues.
yes, you're fine to put in higher voltage caps.
75 amps of high current but only 110 watts a channel... Eh, I don’t think so.
Ok, where do you live.. I'm bringing an amp and a pile of money...
How can I get in touch with you?
I've just replaced some fets. Can I test the amp without having the board attached to the case thermal pasted down? Would I get a power light if I don't? One of my fets of the 6 I replaced have a way different ohms reading while on the board.
Zander Nicholas its not just replace fets you need to balance the amp
I have this amp and love it, definitely a beast. Do you have an idea on how much power they actually produce? Also I've always thought it was a class ab amp, thanks for clarifying
supposed to be around 1400 or 1500 RMS, you can make It go to 1 ohm, watch the bare vids vid on it! Don't forget that there are people out there testing RMS in different ways. I think it's standard to test it at a certain % distortion at 510khz perhaps or something like this but some of these guys are testing at 40Hz and stuff like sweeping bass waves. Makes more sense to compare what is relevant in that frequency range they are working with but it's not a way to compare how we talk about classic RMS in the ~HIFi world etc.
It's like they are creating a new standard for the world of what works with bass.
Hey can ya fix my xtant 1001x
Where are you located ?
Any idea what caused these parts to fail?
One of the amplifier fets shorted from source or drain to the gate pin causing it to kill the IC driving them. Whenever something shorts to gate it is never a good sign and could cause driving issues. How the fet died I have no idea. Maybe over driving, loose heat sink screws or just a part ready to fail.
Thank you.
@@The_Active_Region Yes!!, whenever there is a breakdown voltage reached betweet Gate and source (Vgs), there is no way of bringing back that FET, that is why it is so important to have Calmping diodes between these two pins to prevent any excessive level of (Vgs), hence keeping it below breakdown levels! check for instance the datasheet for The MOSFET STP7NK80ZFP, and look at how the dioes are clamping voltages between Gate and Source.
man in in fargo nd lol can I ship you my jbl prx 615m module
these JBL connectors are made from chinesium so watch out! solder direct!
Anybody there for help me?
Do you use 70% Alcohol to clean PCB's or 99%?
I use 99%
It's not class D, but a class AB monoblock amplifier
No, is class D. One website mislabeled it as class AB when they got it confused with the GTO1004. If you watch this video you'll see clearly it is a class D in fullbridge with high side bootstrap, 2010 class D mosfet driver and so on.
I need you to repair my Amps! Need your info please
jerry davison if u were in ajax ontario i can fix all ur audio gear as i have in the repair business 22+yrs .
i charge from $15-80
Most I know would just use the suction instead of braid... meh.
I thought this was a class a/b amp?
I think it is some kind of hybrid. The pre-driver board was class D or something from what I remember.
So probably more efficient than the average class a/b? I recently bought one used which is why i ask. Thanks for the reply by the way. I watch all your repair videos
No problem and thanks.
Kev31779 I need to get in touch with you please please please.
Heated ic too long more than 10 seconds
Anunaki atlantis When you’re removing a bad chip its not so relevant how long you heat it. Long enough to remove it. He was also at different distances for even heat.
praestant8 i mean for new chip
I don't know why 20 people dislike this? Are they from demon planet?
JBL amp product Batti jal rahe
kiya fault hai
Itu kelas D palsu