The checking tends to heal itself to a large degree when warming. Rub some dark walnut danish oil over it right after and wipe it off and you’ll you maintain that great look.
@@downshift00 Made a huge difference on my blond strat. Brought out checking I couldn’t even see before. Any dark die will work. I chose danish oil because I knew it would stain the paint. Just get into the cracks s lithe.
I've had my Gibson SG since 2000. I only have natural checking happening around Gibson and crown logos on the headstock and possibly near the bass/treble switch. If you catch it in the light at a certain angle however, you can see that the laquer has visibly thinned over the years and you can see the grain of the wood through the ebony finish which wasn't visible when I got it.
Gibsons nitro usually checks fast enough on its own. I’ve always thought they use quite a lot of hardener in their lacquer, it does make a beautiful, glossy finish but they check easier than a more flexible lacquer will.
@@downshift00 it seems like some colors actually check faster too. The metallic colors Gibson uses seem to start in a few years. I really like the look when they start yellowing, the binding looks great then and the overall color can get very interesting.
Looks super cool on the instagram pictures. Btw doesn't this damage the glues or the fretboard wood, drying it too much? Also how would you turn a white LP studio into the cream/light yellow color? I have barely any direct sunlight in my home, some say to use a UV lamp, what do you think? Thanks
So I have a 2017 USA production Firebird in Pelham blue, just a normal run of the mill Firebird, I bought two UV light boxes, one for the front and one for the back, I placed the guitar in a dark closet for 3 weeks with those UV lights one it, absolutely no change…so idk how you could yellow it out, other than just staying the white with a vintage amber or something similar to the cream yellow you want. Good luck!
I think you could also get better results by using this method after applying some light dings. The finish checking tends to form more around light dings in the finishing but other than that it looks cool! Nice work!
@@guitarskeepmesane4958 if you are in the GIBSON GUITAR OWNERS group on fb, this is the link to closeup pics facebook.com/groups/3384253766/permalink/10159511961193767/
You did know that Gibson uses extra plasticizers in the Nitro on the standards so it won't crack right? That 2002 does not have the same Nitro finish they use on the Murphy lab guitars!
I appreciate the tutorial. It doesn't have the same vintage horizontal parallel lines as the naturally checked LP's. I have a replica that I may take out in the winter cold, to see if I can achieve more natural looking results. I'm surprised yours hasn't checked on its own.
Ya, I noticed the same thing. Maybe its because its not done to the entire guitar at once and the check lines dont run that way? Ive also heard that goldtops tend to check in the direction across the guitar (left to right if the guitar is standing vertically). Not sure how Gibson is aging them. Their checking is way too nice and neat, I heard they used to actually use razors to cut it when they would "age" them. Mine hasnt done it naturally because I never exposed it to extreme heat/cold in a short amount of time I guess. Your replica is nitro laquer hopefully?
@@downshift00 I can tell by looking that Gibson's Tom Murphy reliced guitars are done with a razor. The lines don't look natural to me. It's similar repetitive patterns. Like how someone signs their name the same way each time. I'll agree that the natural checking is likely due to the entire guitar expanding/ contracting at once. If it makes you feel better, I seen a few 60's LP's check like yours back in the day (more random small cracks). I did paint my replica with thin coats of nitro for this reason (quarts of Watco mixed 50/50 with thinner). It should be similar to vintage. I also used aniline dye that fades. I faded it in the sun to about the color yours is in the video. I don't think the finish has hardened enough for checking yet. I finished it last month, and wet sanded, and polished it today. If I could get it to check now, the cracks would likely heal up. By winter the finish should be hard enough. That is the plan anyway.
@@downshift00 Nitro has a certain behavior. It's chemistry relays on it being a certain way. It is an unstable chemical in my opinion, but I go out of my way to finish my guitars with it. There is a craft to it, and once you know it, it becomes part of the hobby of playing. I have also built a few amps, and have done some tube rolling, as well as speaker rolling. I am in my 50's, but had a career outside of the music industry. I have always kept building and playing as strictly a hobby. Few make money in the music industry.
You can yes use a razor blade as long as you have a reference model and a lot of time and patience I tried with pretty good results on a custom color Tele Sanded w super fine paper then use the blade I rubbed a little dirt on then fine sanded again Kinda have to do it a few times cause it's quite a process
Sure, I would think that would work... But it would take more time to freeze it then heat it with a heat gun first. I'd run out of canned air.. You could store the entire guitar in a freezing car and shock it when bringing it inside. I guess you are trying to shock it quickly, so heating it up and shocking it with cold air seemed to be the best method without having to use a bunch of cans of air lol.
@@downshift00 lol..true, but you can put it in a freezer or just leave out in a car in winter and then hit with the heat gun. I only say that because I saw it done this way in another youtube video with also great results. Either way, yours looks great.
@@Jethlin2020 I did think about that. But was worried the long cold duration could hurt the wood somehow lol. Seems harsh to leave out in the freezing temps lol. Thanks, ya 8t didn't come out half bad.. At least it was free lol.
@@Jethlin2020 lol ya I was pretty worried, but figured what the hell.. I bought this new in 2003. I'm not a fan of plain tops so I figured it would make it look more interesting 😂. Don't think I would have tried it if it was a flame top. I do also have a coppertop that I thought about trying it on, but decided against that lol.
That's an awesome result, what about the Gibson logo on the headstock? I've always been fascinated by the aged amber style logo, I have a 2013 LP Traditional that still has a silver Gibson logo, I wonder if I can yellow it a bit by leaving the guitar in direct sunlight
@@downshift00 Unfortunately I don't have a UV light to try it myself, but maybe I could do it leaving the guitar in direct sunlight, I will let you know! Anyway keep up with the great work!
I only did the front for now. Haven't attempted the rest of it. I plan on that sometime soon. I just used the canned compressed air and held it upside down.
@@downshift00 Great! Now you have holes in your finish in the form of cracks. The structural integrity has now been compromised. Who thinks that this looks good? I hate it. I have nicks and dings all over some of my guitars and some even have light checking but I've never thought that this looks "cool" or more authentic. I try to avoid this as much as I can. Now I have to worry about sweat, water and other things leeching their way into the wood through those cracks.
@@solarismoon3046 I wonder how all those guitars from the 50s are still playing with cracks and holes and sound good to this day then. Actually the finish cracking all over releases surface tension and in theory the guitar will resonate more. He thinks it looks good and thats all that matters.
@@user-ev2qo1hj1g Just like wrinkles don't make you look older? This has nothing to do with resonance. It's a SOLID BODY. The only thing that will affect the tone is the neck - bolted or glued on, the bridge - more mass = harder tone, the pickups, the body wood in hardness, and the size of fret wire. The bigger the frets the harder the tone as it makes for more mass as well.
Terrible job of showing the results in the video lol, but I saw your picture in a Facebook comment and this definitely worked. Idk how your checking results look compared to a naturally aged guitar, but you just proved how easy it is to artificially age a guitar. Gibson must be making an absolute killing on those Murphy guitars lol. My opinion, they are a complete ripoff, but good for Gibson for making a lot of money off of it.
Also, what makes finish checking look natural? Some guitars have similar checking to others, but I've seen a lot of vintage guitars have some crazy finish checking that looks completely unnatural. Side note: you should repost this video with a picture of the results at the end.
Lol, I know, sorry about that. I couldn't tell if it was showing on video while filming it, it was more of the process I used to do it.. I should have put the still images at the end.. I might have to do that and re-upload the video.
Use the freezer method or you may and probably will ruin the finish of your guitar. No checking but it did turn the lacquer all grisly and cloudy. Going to cost a lot to fix it now. Put it in the freezer and tried that method as it couldn't make it any worse and when taken out 8 hrs later had beautiful checking
Correct. I have heard that those horizontal lines are dependent on the finishes.. Like gold tops, apparently the transparent finishes don't do that always. Murphy still uses razors and crap to do theirs.
if those PAFs were waxed...say goodbye to the original tones that guitar has. Always...ALWAYS remove the pickups. Aging the pickup covers also has a different method.
Hmmm wonder if rubbing ice on it after the heat would cause the same thing It is hard to see I could see a little early on when you had the camera at a good angle
The final result looked pretty damn good man. I just couldn't do it to my baby's lol. The Canadian winters should let them naturally do this after some time. Cold and dry as hell where i am ! Later 🤟🏽
Thanks man. Ya i know it was a big risk. Since it was a plain top, I figured I would try and see what would happen. Don't think I would have done it if it was flame top LOL. If I didn't have this thing for 18 years and it was new, I also wouldn't have done it :)
On 2 of my fender style bodies, specified as "nitro", this actions does not lead to the desireble result:( Maybe they sold me some fake nitro, im confused. On is super-hard and thin, a nd the other one is super doft and thin, far from the fat polyuritaine lacquer, but its not a realy nitro i assume.
It looks like everybody can get the 'small crackles' from this technique, but I haven't seen anyone be able to the the long sparse checking. Wonder how the process needs to change to get that.
Probably have to not "shock" the guitar and gradually have it experience the heat/cold cycle? I thought about leaving it in the car overnight in the cold, but worry about the neck being damaged or something that I can't repair. 🤷♂️
From everything I’ve read over the years it’s cold nights in car boots and then opening the case in the warm, or just very hot and humid. Gibson always used to recommend that you open the cases slowly to allow a more gradual change in temperature to prevent it. My thought with this method, which clearly works, is it doesn’t allow the wood to chill and contract before expanding as it warms, this is just shocking the lacquer and not the body itself. I believe the long lines come from the whole guitar responding to changes in temperature, not just the finish. Anyway, just my two pence worth.
If only your recommendation actually made sense and wasn't extremely dumb. Try coming up with something real that might actually work and then I'll give you credit for being witty. 😂
@@downshift00 That method yeilds a very FAKE looking checking, not at all like a vintage guitar, it will cause the checking to have a spider web pattern. Unfortunately only certain types of n. lac. will check that way, and it is done by putting them in a freezer a few times for several hours. If the lacquer is not correct, it won't check at all, and freeze spray (your method) is the only way it will check at all. As most would agree, I would rather have no checking than fake looking checking. The relic job goes the same way, if done well, it looks realistic, unfortunately many attempt to do it cheap and dirty, not saying you do it that way (if at all), just saying if you can't do it correct, than why bother to do it at all?
Video fail. I felt like I was watching a search for bigfoot program. You may have heard a rustling, smelled a terrible stench and are convinced that you experienced bigfoot, but you haven't convinced me. I just want to SEE it for myself.
Who cares what the naysayers think. U are on the right track. You could try sheening it down if u want that vintage look. Remove your bridge and tail piece and pickup rings. Put tape on your magnets to keep the steel wool from sticking. After you sheen it down you could ding it up here and there, and take some chips up with an exacto knife. Some will use dark stain after the chips are up to make the wood look old underneath. Just dark mahogany stain, dab it on then wipe it off. Follow everything up with the checking method u are doing. I actually did this to a used Les Paul I made and it looked really good. Sold it and made money on the guitar. Also you can use vinegar or acid etch the hardware. The bright shine yells newer guitar. The plastic needs the work too. Sheened down and a few nicks and light scratches if u like. Some like it, some don't, its all about you
I think those varnish cracks are actually a defect, rather than anything else. The only thing good about that nitro varnish is the that it does support a good vibration, but still. A varnish is not meant to only support the tone. It should never crack. However, it became iconic like everything Gibson older than 1977.
Not very convincing. You'd get more realistic results leaving it in your car on a really cold night, then bringing it right inside your warm home the next morning. Also wouldn't take nearly so much effort.
That’s some good checking I’ve done the same but with a hairdryer and the results aren’t as authentic as yours … maybe not enough heat to shock the lacquer
You have to hold the heat gun in (one spot ) for at least 5 -10 minutes then just hold your can of air upside down.Don’t shake your air can.Dude it’s not hair! Hold the dryer in one spot OMG I can’t watch this
I mean no disrespect to downshift00, because I completely understand the difficulty in shooting guitars with a camera, especially if you’re working by yourself, but this comment had me laughing out loud…full belly laughing. And I thank you!
to piss you off LOL. Seriously though, I wanted to experiment and see how well it would come out. I have had this thing for almost 20 years now. This guitar isn't being sold, so its not a big deal. It came out great if you look at the link in the description.
@@downshift00 ok I apologize, it came out really really well, im sorry usually I'm against the artificial aging of guitars because i think is not worth it, but damn, that guitar its gorgeous
@@gekojazz798 I wouldn't pay the crazy price to have Murphy do it that's for sure. But for 20 min of my time it was worth the try. This was the 1st time I've ever tried this LOL.
@@downshift00 wow, of it's you first time doing its impressive, i wouldn't been able to trust myself lol, I wouldn't pay Murphy lab neither, im more by the: let it age by itself rule
Dude - you're doing this the wrong way. It's all backwards. Going from hot to cold doesn't make it check - but going from cold (for a long time) to a very warm environment is what causes checks to form in the finish. Try putting it in the freezer for an hour then hit it with the heat gun.
Why???...WHY???...Pure decadence...My 1992 Standard,bought new,shows scratches and dings after 32 years of heavy playing and gigin' but everyone has a story to tell...what story can tell a guitar battered with a hammer,freezed and warmed with a phon to crack the laquer???😢😢😢 PURE DECADENCE... NOTHING ELSE AND NOTHING TO SAY🤢🤮
@@downshift00 It’s your guitar dude! All I’m saying is I would’ve played it another 20 years and got that wear honestly. The people that pay crazy money for that is because they’re getting actual replicas from the Murphy lab. I picked up at 64 heavy aged Murphy lab SG, and you almost can’t tell the difference between a vintage.
@@captainhotbunz659 that type of aging only happens if you are constantly taking it in and out of the cold/hot. I'm definitely not doing that. It hangs on the wall nowadays and I pick it up and play it lol
![Gibson Les Paul R9 refinish. PART 1 [How to remove Gibson factory lacquer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yks_xVrv3y4/mqdefault.jpg)
![Gibson Les Paul R9 refinish. PART 1 [How to remove Gibson factory lacquer]](/img/tr.png)
Don't forget to melt the humbucker mounts. That will add a real Vintage look
😂 😂 😂 I could also set it on fire 🔥 BTW, cool malamute, I have a mal/husky mix.
I love dogs
The checking tends to heal itself to a large degree when warming. Rub some dark walnut danish oil over it right after and wipe it off and you’ll you maintain that great look.
Hmm will have to try that.
@@downshift00
Made a huge difference on my blond strat. Brought out checking I couldn’t even see before. Any dark die will work. I chose danish oil because I knew it would stain the paint. Just get into the cracks s lithe.
I've had my Gibson SG since 2000. I only have natural checking happening around Gibson and crown logos on the headstock and possibly near the bass/treble switch. If you catch it in the light at a certain angle however, you can see that the laquer has visibly thinned over the years and you can see the grain of the wood through the ebony finish which wasn't visible when I got it.
This dude had to be high as a kite after this😂
Gibsons nitro usually checks fast enough on its own. I’ve always thought they use quite a lot of hardener in their lacquer, it does make a beautiful, glossy finish but they check easier than a more flexible lacquer will.
I've had the guitar for 18 years, no checking. Guess it just depends the environment it is used in. If it goes in and out if the cold/hot etc.
@@downshift00 it seems like some colors actually check faster too. The metallic colors Gibson uses seem to start in a few years. I really like the look when they start yellowing, the binding looks great then and the overall color can get very interesting.
Looks super cool on the instagram pictures. Btw doesn't this damage the glues or the fretboard wood, drying it too much? Also how would you turn a white LP studio into the cream/light yellow color? I have barely any direct sunlight in my home, some say to use a UV lamp, what do you think? Thanks
So I have a 2017 USA production Firebird in Pelham blue, just a normal run of the mill Firebird, I bought two UV light boxes, one for the front and one for the back, I placed the guitar in a dark closet for 3 weeks with those UV lights one it, absolutely no change…so idk how you could yellow it out, other than just staying the white with a vintage amber or something similar to the cream yellow you want. Good luck!
I think you could also get better results by using this method after applying some light dings. The finish checking tends to form more around light dings in the finishing but other than that it looks cool! Nice work!
There are some light dings on it, nothing major though. More so on the back, but I didn't do the back. It's hard to see the true effect in the video.
@@downshift00 oh ok, yeah it maybe been the lighting
@@guitarskeepmesane4958 ya I should have put in pics of the after effects. I need to do a short Part2 and attach it to this one.
@@downshift00 fs I would love to see the checking Tim the right lighting
@@guitarskeepmesane4958 if you are in the GIBSON GUITAR OWNERS group on fb, this is the link to closeup pics facebook.com/groups/3384253766/permalink/10159511961193767/
You did know that Gibson uses extra plasticizers in the Nitro on the standards so it won't crack right? That 2002 does not have the same Nitro finish they use on the Murphy lab guitars!
😂
Lol, yeah I read that, too. All these guys trying to fake the look without doing any research.
I appreciate the tutorial. It doesn't have the same vintage horizontal parallel lines as the naturally checked LP's. I have a replica that I may take out in the winter cold, to see if I can achieve more natural looking results. I'm surprised yours hasn't checked on its own.
Ya, I noticed the same thing. Maybe its because its not done to the entire guitar at once and the check lines dont run that way? Ive also heard that goldtops tend to check in the direction across the guitar (left to right if the guitar is standing vertically). Not sure how Gibson is aging them. Their checking is way too nice and neat, I heard they used to actually use razors to cut it when they would "age" them. Mine hasnt done it naturally because I never exposed it to extreme heat/cold in a short amount of time I guess. Your replica is nitro laquer hopefully?
@@downshift00 I can tell by looking that Gibson's Tom Murphy reliced guitars are done with a razor. The lines don't look natural to me. It's similar repetitive patterns. Like how someone signs their name the same way each time. I'll agree that the natural checking is likely due to the entire guitar expanding/ contracting at once. If it makes you feel better, I seen a few 60's LP's check like yours back in the day (more random small cracks).
I did paint my replica with thin coats of nitro for this reason (quarts of Watco mixed 50/50 with thinner). It should be similar to vintage. I also used aniline dye that fades. I faded it in the sun to about the color yours is in the video. I don't think the finish has hardened enough for checking yet. I finished it last month, and wet sanded, and polished it today. If I could get it to check now, the cracks would likely heal up. By winter the finish should be hard enough. That is the plan anyway.
@@qua7771 Very cool! When I was doing mine, the checks would try to heal up somewhat, probably because the cold blast isn't for a long time.
@@downshift00 Nitro has a certain behavior. It's chemistry relays on it being a certain way. It is an unstable chemical in my opinion, but I go out of my way to finish my guitars with it. There is a craft to it, and once you know it, it becomes part of the hobby of playing. I have also built a few amps, and have done some tube rolling, as well as speaker rolling.
I am in my 50's, but had a career outside of the music industry. I have always kept building and playing as strictly a hobby. Few make money in the music industry.
You can yes use a razor blade as long as you have a reference model and a lot of time and patience I tried with pretty good results on a custom color Tele Sanded w super fine paper then use the blade I rubbed a little dirt on then fine sanded again Kinda have to do it a few times cause it's quite a process
WOW the modern plasticizers must be really good!
Can't believe I sat through a 10 minute video to see basically nothing and all your "close ups" showed nothing still
Look at the link in the description
You did it though. Hope you learned your lesson. The internet is bullshit and everyones a retard. try hiding your phone for three days.
@@downshift00looks great, just did my gold top tonight
Im by no means an expert on this but would freezing it first and then heating work any different?
Sure, I would think that would work... But it would take more time to freeze it then heat it with a heat gun first. I'd run out of canned air.. You could store the entire guitar in a freezing car and shock it when bringing it inside. I guess you are trying to shock it quickly, so heating it up and shocking it with cold air seemed to be the best method without having to use a bunch of cans of air lol.
@@downshift00 lol..true, but you can put it in a freezer or just leave out in a car in winter and then hit with the heat gun. I only say that because I saw it done this way in another youtube video with also great results. Either way, yours looks great.
@@Jethlin2020 I did think about that. But was worried the long cold duration could hurt the wood somehow lol. Seems harsh to leave out in the freezing temps lol. Thanks, ya 8t didn't come out half bad.. At least it was free lol.
@@downshift00 I'm so tempted to try it but scared...lol. I give you credit for going through with it.
@@Jethlin2020 lol ya I was pretty worried, but figured what the hell.. I bought this new in 2003. I'm not a fan of plain tops so I figured it would make it look more interesting 😂. Don't think I would have tried it if it was a flame top. I do also have a coppertop that I thought about trying it on, but decided against that lol.
Take guitar to the mid west in January. Leave it in the car during the day. At night, bring it into the warm house and just open the case.
Ya that's definitely one way to do it!
@@downshift00 Not today (Feb 7th 2022)…. it’s 50 degrees in North Dakota 😂
That's an awesome result, what about the Gibson logo on the headstock? I've always been fascinated by the aged amber style logo, I have a 2013 LP Traditional that still has a silver Gibson logo, I wonder if I can yellow it a bit by leaving the guitar in direct sunlight
Ya. I wonder if you got a UV light and put it over the logo if it would yellow? I haven't tried to yellow mine.
@@downshift00 Unfortunately I don't have a UV light to try it myself, but maybe I could do it leaving the guitar in direct sunlight, I will let you know! Anyway keep up with the great work!
@@AleshotgunAny results?
Youre heating the spot at the same time as youre cooling it, I dont get that.
But Why?
Can you Talk me what kind of spray did you used? Did you realice the same job on the Back, sides and the headstock?
I only did the front for now. Haven't attempted the rest of it. I plan on that sometime soon. I just used the canned compressed air and held it upside down.
@@downshift00 Great! Now you have holes in your finish in the form of cracks. The structural integrity has now been compromised. Who thinks that this looks good? I hate it. I have nicks and dings all over some of my guitars and some even have light checking but I've never thought that this looks "cool" or more authentic. I try to avoid this as much as I can. Now I have to worry about sweat, water and other things leeching their way into the wood through those cracks.
@@solarismoon3046 I wonder how all those guitars from the 50s are still playing with cracks and holes and sound good to this day then. Actually the finish cracking all over releases surface tension and in theory the guitar will resonate more. He thinks it looks good and thats all that matters.
@@user-ev2qo1hj1g Just like wrinkles don't make you look older? This has nothing to do with resonance. It's a SOLID BODY. The only thing that will affect the tone is the neck - bolted or glued on, the bridge - more mass = harder tone, the pickups, the body wood in hardness, and the size of fret wire. The bigger the frets the harder the tone as it makes for more mass as well.
Terrible job of showing the results in the video lol, but I saw your picture in a Facebook comment and this definitely worked. Idk how your checking results look compared to a naturally aged guitar, but you just proved how easy it is to artificially age a guitar. Gibson must be making an absolute killing on those Murphy guitars lol. My opinion, they are a complete ripoff, but good for Gibson for making a lot of money off of it.
Also, what makes finish checking look natural? Some guitars have similar checking to others, but I've seen a lot of vintage guitars have some crazy finish checking that looks completely unnatural.
Side note: you should repost this video with a picture of the results at the end.
Lol, I know, sorry about that. I couldn't tell if it was showing on video while filming it, it was more of the process I used to do it.. I should have put the still images at the end.. I might have to do that and re-upload the video.
@@gavinfreeman7453 ya i have no idea. I've also heard that different finishes check differently.
Use the freezer method or you may and probably will ruin the finish of your guitar.
No checking but it did turn the lacquer all grisly and cloudy.
Going to cost a lot to fix it now. Put it in the freezer and tried that method as it couldn't make it any worse and when taken out 8 hrs later had beautiful checking
This doesn't produce the linear/horizontal checking that old nitro finish guitars get with natural age.
Correct. I have heard that those horizontal lines are dependent on the finishes.. Like gold tops, apparently the transparent finishes don't do that always. Murphy still uses razors and crap to do theirs.
if those PAFs were waxed...say goodbye to the original tones that guitar has. Always...ALWAYS remove the pickups. Aging the pickup covers also has a different method.
I didn't heat the pickups with the heat gun just the body.
Waste of time, looks the same 😮
Hmmm wonder if rubbing ice on it after the heat would cause the same thing It is hard to see I could see a little early on when you had the camera at a good angle
Hard to tell I know.. Here are some still pics of the results. instagram.com/p/CNFkuX7Hn4c/
Totally escapes me why one would ever want to do this!
they don’t,
but they pay $100,000 for
it!
@@looking_33 : I chalk it up to mass insanity!
Bij. J jbb jj j. If ijn j in j. J j. If. Jo n j o j I. I. I j j. I j just. J. In j. In. I need jj j j j j. Jjnj I. In
The final result looked pretty damn good man. I just couldn't do it to my baby's lol. The Canadian winters should let them naturally do this after some time. Cold and dry as hell where i am ! Later 🤟🏽
Thanks man. Ya i know it was a big risk. Since it was a plain top, I figured I would try and see what would happen. Don't think I would have done it if it was flame top LOL. If I didn't have this thing for 18 years and it was new, I also wouldn't have done it :)
On 2 of my fender style bodies, specified as "nitro", this actions does not lead to the desireble result:( Maybe they sold me some fake nitro, im confused. On is super-hard and thin, a nd the other one is super doft and thin, far from the fat polyuritaine lacquer, but its not a realy nitro i assume.
It looks like everybody can get the 'small crackles' from this technique, but I haven't seen anyone be able to the the long sparse checking. Wonder how the process needs to change to get that.
Probably have to not "shock" the guitar and gradually have it experience the heat/cold cycle? I thought about leaving it in the car overnight in the cold, but worry about the neck being damaged or something that I can't repair. 🤷♂️
I’m pretty sure after they crack it a little they use razor blades. I heard that some where but don’t quote me on that.
From everything I’ve read over the years it’s cold nights in car boots and then opening the case in the warm, or just very hot and humid. Gibson always used to recommend that you open the cases slowly to allow a more gradual change in temperature to prevent it. My thought with this method, which clearly works, is it doesn’t allow the wood to chill and contract before expanding as it warms, this is just shocking the lacquer and not the body itself. I believe the long lines come from the whole guitar responding to changes in temperature, not just the finish. Anyway, just my two pence worth.
You should drag it behind your pickup truck. That would look just as authentic.
Here I am trying to figure out how to get rid of a single check and hes adding them?! 😅
You could side step this whole process by dragging it behind your car a few miles.
If only your recommendation actually made sense and wasn't extremely dumb. Try coming up with something real that might actually work and then I'll give you credit for being witty. 😂
@@downshift00 That method yeilds a very FAKE looking checking, not at all like a vintage guitar, it will cause the checking to have a spider web pattern. Unfortunately only certain types of n. lac. will check that way, and it is done by putting them in a freezer a few times for several hours. If the lacquer is not correct, it won't check at all, and freeze spray (your method) is the only way it will check at all. As most would agree, I would rather have no checking than fake looking checking. The relic job goes the same way, if done well, it looks realistic, unfortunately many attempt to do it cheap and dirty, not saying you do it that way (if at all), just saying if you can't do it correct, than why bother to do it at all?
Thanks but you can't see anything in your video. you only see a glimpse of checking on the edges. you just hear the sound of your heat gun.
Great tutorial. Can i also crack a nitro finish with a poly undercoat finish beneath it?
Hmm that I am not sure. I guess you find out if you tried it 😂
Video fail. I felt like I was watching a search for bigfoot program. You may have heard a rustling, smelled a terrible stench and are convinced that you experienced bigfoot, but you haven't convinced me. I just want to SEE it for myself.
Lol I include the Instagram link for the pictures in the description.. The video was to show the process.
Nope cant see jack. Ok I want my 10:33 back
See the link in the description 😁
Who cares what the naysayers think. U are on the right track. You could try sheening it down if u want that vintage look. Remove your bridge and tail piece and pickup rings. Put tape on your magnets to keep the steel wool from sticking. After you sheen it down you could ding it up here and there, and take some chips up with an exacto knife. Some will use dark stain after the chips are up to make the wood look old underneath. Just dark mahogany stain, dab it on then wipe it off. Follow everything up with the checking method u are doing. I actually did this to a used Les Paul I made and it looked really good. Sold it and made money on the guitar. Also you can use vinegar or acid etch the hardware. The bright shine yells newer guitar. The plastic needs the work too. Sheened down and a few nicks and light scratches if u like. Some like it, some don't, its all about you
I think those varnish cracks are actually a defect, rather than anything else. The only thing good about that nitro varnish is the that it does support a good vibration, but still. A varnish is not meant to only support the tone. It should never crack. However, it became iconic like everything Gibson older than 1977.
Not very convincing. You'd get more realistic results leaving it in your car on a really cold night, then bringing it right inside your warm home the next morning. Also wouldn't take nearly so much effort.
I mean it literally took the effort length of the video lol.
Like dude said - the melted humbuckers scream vintage
i love it when people srew up an aging job
The job wasn't screwed up at all. You can't even see it in this video 😂
You kinda have to screw up an aging job for it to be considered screwed up. This guy did it right.
That’s some good checking I’ve done the same but with a hairdryer and the results aren’t as authentic as yours … maybe not enough heat to shock the lacquer
Thanks. I was worried it was going to come out really badly 😂 but Im very happy with the result for my 1st time trying it.
Easiest way to relic get a can of lighter fluid and set it on fire like Jimmie Hendrix .
You have to hold the heat gun in (one spot ) for at least 5 -10 minutes then just hold your can of air upside down.Don’t shake your air can.Dude it’s not hair! Hold the dryer in one spot
OMG I can’t watch this
Look at the link in description. My method worked just fine. 5-10 min?? Lol you are high.
And nothing happened...
this tutorial should be called how to place your camera in the damndest angle lol
Lol I know. Not easy to get it to show on video with that color finish. I left links of the after pics in the description.
I mean no disrespect to downshift00, because I completely understand the difficulty in shooting guitars with a camera, especially if you’re working by yourself, but this comment had me laughing out loud…full belly laughing. And I thank you!
Youre doing that totally wrong in a lot of ways. but Im guessing youve figured it out by now.
Terrible video. Can’t see a single thing.
I was documenting the process. See the link in the description for images.
I’d have a really hard time doing that to a perfectly good instrument, it’s silly imo
It'd still a perfectly good instrument lol.
Stop, just wait 2003, it should already have cracks in the finish.
Lol nope, I've had it 20 yrs and gigged it for a few of those years.
Bro why? Just why?
to piss you off LOL. Seriously though, I wanted to experiment and see how well it would come out. I have had this thing for almost 20 years now. This guitar isn't being sold, so its not a big deal. It came out great if you look at the link in the description.
@@downshift00 ok I apologize, it came out really really well, im sorry usually I'm against the artificial aging of guitars because i think is not worth it, but damn, that guitar its gorgeous
@@gekojazz798 I wouldn't pay the crazy price to have Murphy do it that's for sure. But for 20 min of my time it was worth the try. This was the 1st time I've ever tried this LOL.
@@downshift00 wow, of it's you first time doing its impressive, i wouldn't been able to trust myself lol, I wouldn't pay Murphy lab neither, im more by the: let it age by itself rule
@@gekojazz798 Thanks. I got lucky 😂, I was worried it was gonna go very badly lol. I got tired of looking at the plain top I guess 😂
Boy grade A material here
If you play it everyday, son or later it will get a normal vintage look.
In 40 years maybe.
@@marfg12345 Im sure in 20 it will look old if you play everyday, and playing it in gigs.
No, no, no. Unbelievable.
WTF! Not a good idea.
LOL 😂 😂 😂 OK
Looks no different lol, what a waste of time.
Did you look at the link in the description? I'm guessing you didn't.
Dude - you're doing this the wrong way. It's all backwards. Going from hot to cold doesn't make it check - but going from cold (for a long time) to a very warm environment is what causes checks to form in the finish. Try putting it in the freezer for an hour then hit it with the heat gun.
Boy, I don't see anything. What a waste of time 😢😮😅
Why???...WHY???...Pure decadence...My 1992 Standard,bought new,shows scratches and dings after 32 years of heavy playing and gigin' but everyone has a story to tell...what story can tell a guitar battered with a hammer,freezed and warmed with a phon to crack the laquer???😢😢😢 PURE DECADENCE... NOTHING ELSE AND NOTHING TO SAY🤢🤮
That was not great.
I guess you didnt see the link in the description. instagram.com/p/CNFkuX7Hn4c/
Katastrophe
I just don't understand poser moves.
That’s so cheesy
Lol why? People pay dumb money to have it done. I did it for free on my guitar as an experiment that I've owned for 20yrs. 😁
@@downshift00 It’s your guitar dude! All I’m saying is I would’ve played it another 20 years and got that wear honestly. The people that pay crazy money for that is because they’re getting actual replicas from the Murphy lab. I picked up at 64 heavy aged Murphy lab SG, and you almost can’t tell the difference between a vintage.
@@captainhotbunz659 that type of aging only happens if you are constantly taking it in and out of the cold/hot. I'm definitely not doing that. It hangs on the wall nowadays and I pick it up and play it lol