I love how the silkscreen label proudly announces "CY1" on the common mode suppression cap when there is no way a class Y cap would even fit on that footprint and they just used a regular SMD ceramic
It shows that at least one person that designed this knew what to put there. Although I also wouldn't be surprised if that person didnt work for this company and they just copied/stole the design with noone that understands what they are doing.
@@Basement-Science Yeah probably they find that CY1 is just how everybody else named a capacitor on that part of the schematic while they had no clue about its purpose.
Ok, I had one of those chargers and I used it for quite a long time for some small projects(bought in Poland, marked on sticker as 5V/1,5A, but under the sticker there was the same description as on the video). Today I opened it and found that electrolytic capacitor probably leaked, there was some yellow fluid on top of the cap and inside the box. There were some small differences in PCB layout, but dangerous SMD cap was present. Thanks for uploading this video, I am not gonna use that charger again.
What's required to properly test these devices is an insulation tester. A few years ago a women down here in Au lost her life to a dodgy USB power supply she'd bought at a market. Off the top of my head the local specification is 500V mains to output but I'd prefer 1,000V before I'd trust my life to anything in contact with my body. The greatest risk is now mitigated to some extent by mobile phones not having headphone sockets.
Unfortunately insulation standards are really low in a lot of places... For example in Germany a PSU like this only needs to have 1Mohm after 1 minute of runtime at 500V (I think) and that's it.. Even the most dodgy power supplies in this video series can probably manage that, but that doesnt mean they wont break down after more than a few minutes... Meanwhile a good SMPS can have >1Gohm at 1000V or even higher.
Everything was kinda acceptable beside that capacitor between primary and sec. My question is, if I came across one of those chargers and really want to use it, isn't it safer to just remove that capacitor entirely and leave that track floating? I know it's job is to remove interference but, what kind of interference? I never quite really get it. Can you show it in a next video, what really changes in the secondary waveform or whatever change if that capacitor is omited? Also, which is the maximum voltage for a SMD cap like that? I bet much less than those 1KV caps which is already low for that purpose, but better than this one.
@@WagTsXA think you’ll feel a tickle when you’d touch one of the low voltage leads because of the coupling in the transformer. Anyone: please correct me when I’m wrong.
The transformer is quite bad and it's impossible to fix that. There's no fusible resistor or filter at the input. In case of a problem, the primary side controller will become a short and a lot of current can pass and could create a fire. Honestly this is SUPER DODGY. There's room to add a fusible resistor so this can be partially fixed. Otherwise it could have been possible to remove the SMD cap, shorten the tracks to maintain a safe distance (removing the protection and etching the copper) then solder a Y class cap. But that's a lot of work and not really worth it.
I bought the exact same charger two years ago, wasn't even concerned about it sharing 3 amps between devices since i leave my stuff charging overnight Now i want to get rid of it
I think that conclusion should be "super duper dodgy" because of that cap and track under it which compromise safety distance between prim and secnd sides od transf. I have never seen somethting like that!
powering with no explosion is a nice thing to have, but the sound before the explosion as an alarm that you need to give the credit - of course, no explosion, false alarm which is not a good alarm :p
My wife bought me a Spin Power Wireless Model 7896FED USB charger, wireless charger and AC power strip. I am on Canada, it is 120 volt. I did not trust it so I looked inside. It looks ok, transformer with extended well insulated secondary, fuse, RF filtering, good AC caps, good spacing. I did not test the current capability or the wireless. I think it looks safe to use. Maybe you would be interested in testing it. I could not find a European version.
There are some tests like that for the complete device on youtube. Most survive but remember it's a very short test. Components gradually get worse after sitting hundreds of hours in a tiny plastic package at 90 degrees C.
Interesting, coincidentally I found a powerbar with 4 usb input that dont work and always wondered how the USB failed, but never thought to open and check hehe However it failed it must of done so safely because theres nothing comming out, well at leaste according the the devices ive plugged into them, never actually measured. Now i think Ill take it apart and curiouse to see if a different/better design saved my devices from being destroyed by mains.
Just ‘Dodgy’ eh? The fact that they really cheaped out on safety and instead used that SMD Capacitor. “I mean… if you really round up 2.7 Amps, its considered 3 Amps!” -the manufacturer that made that charger I would consider that as “Super Dodgyyy!”
I had I think a 6 or 8 port version of this, it was much better built, with proper isolation, components, etc. I bought the exact same one from the same company a second time, it was much worse quality. These things are kinda hit and miss
Ideally yes, but it also increases the losses. They just hope the diodes will not go into thermal disbalance runaway. After all, the diodes are thermally coupled via the board tracks, so their temperature should be similar. Even some good power supplies have parallel power diodes, as long as they share the same heatsink.
@@DiodeGoneWild Thank you for the explanation, I was thinking of slight manufacturing tolerance differences in the diodes Vf / forward current but if both were made in the same batch they would be identical anyway. Your heat dissipation explanation is more elegant though
I have and idea why don't you make a video where you design and make your own phone chager.How a phone chager should be so alot of people here can benefit from it since the circuit look like something we can solder at home.
"So the conclusion is..." Why not super extreme dodgy? No fuse, just the wires inside will act "somewhat like" a type of "fuse" or just the 13/16 amps line breaker. And a capacitor that's rated for... Uhm... Maybe up to 100 volts? Misses the claimed specs by 10% - okay that's somewhat acceptable. Nice and very informative videos anyway. Good job 👍🏼
I was curious if we can convert a flyback smps supply from 0-12 volt.. The minimum i got was 3.3 volt but i need 0-12 volt... Is it possible i can give external supply to main switching control ic ... Will tl431 and other circuit work with it ??? Share your views.... It would highly appreciated... Thanks.
It may not charge correctly if the charger cannot give the required current. Some dubious chargers give the wrong voltage: over 5.25V can possibly damage devices that expect a 5V power supply, whereas under 4.75V will fail to charge the device properly if at all. If the charger overheats in its case, it can melt the plastic and cause a fire (risk of fire). If any of the components short across to the secondary side, it can make the output live at whatever your mains voltage is (risk of electric shock and death). Basically, stay safe and only use proper chargers from a trustworthy source.
Hello, I have a question, is it beneficial when we use 2 diode (or more) in parallel, from what I read in the past they said using 2 diode in parallel cannot double it's current capability. But when diode in series it can increase the voltage rating... Is it true? From what I tried in the past I used 2 diode in parallel to supply some load and both of the diode is getting warm, so I think the load is distributed to both diode. I really appreciate all your video, they give me so much new knowledge since I'm not really have degree in this kind of electronics 😀
When you connect diodes in parallel, the current through them is split, BUT NOT EQUAL. Diodes of the same type even from the same manufacturer will have a slight difference in voltage drop. The diode which has a lower voltage drop will have a slightly greater current than the other diodes if connected in parallel. The greater the difference in voltage drop, the greater the difference in current flowing in the diode.
Similar diodes in parallel will share some current, but without additional series resistance it's very unlikely to be an equal share. The worst problem is that the forward voltage of a silicon diode _decreases_ as it gets hotter, so the diode carrying more current will naturally get hotter and then take even more current. Having the diodes in good thermal contact (e.g. bolted to the same heatsink in a TO220 package) will help minimise this effect.
Question... I got a 240v power drill instead of a 110v one. My question is is there anything I can do with the 240 volt? Or should I just rip the copper winding off to reuse the wire?
Scenario #1: You go to plug in your phone, and that's the last thing you do. Scenario #2: Burns your house down, insurance claims the fire chief says it was the fake uncertified Chinese charger responsible for the fire, and refuses to pay! Just the excuse they needed. You become homeless just because you thought it was OK to buy the cheapest charger from AliExpress or Amazon. Then you cry some more....
I have to disagree. It's dangerous, not dodgy. Another reason to stay away from Chinese chargers. Any made by names like apple, or any real Japanese brands, is the best way to go. The rest is garbage imo. Specially these Chinese knockoffs and El Cheapos with fake certifications.
this guy has some wierd fetish on destroying perfectly functioning USB power supplys. Im much more pissed with recent things like millions of swollen lithium batteries purposely made impossiible to inspect or change, inside laptops or phones, that people even dont know they are swolen for years.
Hi DiodeGoneWild, I have been following you. You do a great work. I work for NextPCB. We would like to sponsor your projects. You can send a DM for more details. /Dolphin
The "M7" diode is a 1n4007 - NO WAY USEFUL for SNUBBER!!!!!!!!!!! ....way too slow! The snubber will actually be a RC ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ....NOT GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am not a safety nazi but holy shit. That MLCC between primary and secondary gave me goosebumps. These caps are well known for failing dead short.
You would be surprised how many cheap shady ones do that
"safety nazi" hahahaha.. i loved that.
yup, you are correct!
I expected that to be rated "Super Dodgy" especially with the track under the capacitor.
Same here. I sometimes 'join in' and say it out loud at the end of these videos (I know!) but this time I said 'Syooper...Oh,'! 😄
Same here
I love how the silkscreen label proudly announces "CY1" on the common mode suppression cap when there is no way a class Y cap would even fit on that footprint and they just used a regular SMD ceramic
It shows that at least one person that designed this knew what to put there. Although I also wouldn't be surprised if that person didnt work for this company and they just copied/stole the design with noone that understands what they are doing.
@@Basement-Science Yeah probably they find that CY1 is just how everybody else named a capacitor on that part of the schematic while they had no clue about its purpose.
The SMD capacitor and HV track under it, are a safety feature.
They wanna make sure you don't live to make any trouble for them.🤷♂
Lmao
True...😅
Ok, I had one of those chargers and I used it for quite a long time for some small projects(bought in Poland, marked on sticker as 5V/1,5A, but under the sticker there was the same description as on the video). Today I opened it and found that electrolytic capacitor probably leaked, there was some yellow fluid on top of the cap and inside the box. There were some small differences in PCB layout, but dangerous SMD cap was present. Thanks for uploading this video, I am not gonna use that charger again.
Thanks!
Thank you for your support!
I like the icon on the electrolythic capacitors. That is all.
it almost seems like they are designing them on purpose to kill you, it's crazy
Dodgy ? No! It's SUPER DODGY !!!
this charger should be in super dodgy category
What's required to properly test these devices is an insulation tester. A few years ago a women down here in Au lost her life to a dodgy USB power supply she'd bought at a market. Off the top of my head the local specification is 500V mains to output but I'd prefer 1,000V before I'd trust my life to anything in contact with my body. The greatest risk is now mitigated to some extent by mobile phones not having headphone sockets.
Unfortunately insulation standards are really low in a lot of places... For example in Germany a PSU like this only needs to have 1Mohm after 1 minute of runtime at 500V (I think) and that's it.. Even the most dodgy power supplies in this video series can probably manage that, but that doesnt mean they wont break down after more than a few minutes...
Meanwhile a good SMPS can have >1Gohm at 1000V or even higher.
C'mon, we've seen similar called 'super dodgy' but this has to be the first with an SMD suppression cap, WITH A TRACK UNDER IT
Souper Dodgy
Everything was kinda acceptable beside that capacitor between primary and sec. My question is, if I came across one of those chargers and really want to use it, isn't it safer to just remove that capacitor entirely and leave that track floating? I know it's job is to remove interference but, what kind of interference? I never quite really get it. Can you show it in a next video, what really changes in the secondary waveform or whatever change if that capacitor is omited? Also, which is the maximum voltage for a SMD cap like that? I bet much less than those 1KV caps which is already low for that purpose, but better than this one.
SMD capacitors usually short circuit when they fail. 😱
@@Conservator. yes, that's why I suggest to remove and omit it, but what's the implications of doing so?
@@WagTsXA think you’ll feel a tickle when you’d touch one of the low voltage leads because of the coupling in the transformer.
Anyone: please correct me when I’m wrong.
The touchscreen on your phone may stop working when plugged in with that type of interference source.
The transformer is quite bad and it's impossible to fix that. There's no fusible resistor or filter at the input. In case of a problem, the primary side controller will become a short and a lot of current can pass and could create a fire. Honestly this is SUPER DODGY. There's room to add a fusible resistor so this can be partially fixed.
Otherwise it could have been possible to remove the SMD cap, shorten the tracks to maintain a safe distance (removing the protection and etching the copper) then solder a Y class cap. But that's a lot of work and not really worth it.
7:38 so be careful, do not buy and use! Thank you Dany! Another great vid!
I was waiting so much for another charger video
A nice dodgy one...!!! Those caps usually fail ........ with a solid dead short...!!!
I bought the exact same charger two years ago, wasn't even concerned about it sharing 3 amps between devices since i leave my stuff charging overnight
Now i want to get rid of it
I thought that one would be ‘super dodgy’
I think it should be stamped super dodgy with that SMD cap and the trace running under it my self
I think that conclusion should be "super duper dodgy" because of that cap and track under it which compromise safety distance between prim and secnd sides od transf. I have never seen somethting like that!
Thanks
I would have called it super dodgy after seeing that "safety" capacitor setup. Eugh!
powering with no explosion is a nice thing to have, but the sound before the explosion as an alarm that you need to give the credit - of course, no explosion, false alarm which is not a good alarm :p
Shouldn't this be classified as SUPER DODGY?
I'm kind of surprised you didn't label it Super Dodgy. That ceramic "Y class" capacitor gave me the heebie-jeebies.
What a powerful DODGYYYY!
My wife bought me a Spin Power Wireless Model 7896FED USB charger, wireless charger and AC power strip.
I am on Canada, it is 120 volt.
I did not trust it so I looked inside.
It looks ok, transformer with extended well insulated secondary, fuse, RF filtering, good AC caps, good spacing.
I did not test the current capability or the wireless.
I think it looks safe to use.
Maybe you would be interested in testing it.
I could not find a European version.
Can we see a dielectric strength test for some of these transformers and capacitors? It would be good to see if any fail and at what voltage.
He already did a video, using a microwave oven transformer as the HV source
There are some tests like that for the complete device on youtube. Most survive but remember it's a very short test. Components gradually get worse after sitting hundreds of hours in a tiny plastic package at 90 degrees C.
Hey, where is the long copper wires number??? I like that part.
please create content to review the wide step down input module 16v ~ 120v to 12v 3A
Interesting, coincidentally I found a powerbar with 4 usb input that dont work and always wondered how the USB failed, but never thought to open and check hehe However it failed it must of done so safely because theres nothing comming out, well at leaste according the the devices ive plugged into them, never actually measured. Now i think Ill take it apart and curiouse to see if a different/better design saved my devices from being destroyed by mains.
Luv your reviews! POS - yes.
my god this is one of the worst.
It's not the worst though, I've seen chargers that literally have everything wrong with them.
Just ‘Dodgy’ eh? The fact that they really cheaped out on safety and instead used that SMD Capacitor.
“I mean… if you really round up 2.7 Amps, its considered 3 Amps!”
-the manufacturer that made that charger
I would consider that as “Super Dodgyyy!”
the "Y1" caps is probably a standard MLCC. smd safety caps would have some kind of marking as far as i know
Bhai jaan charger 1 sal istemal karne ke bad slow kyon Ho jata hai
I had I think a 6 or 8 port version of this, it was much better built, with proper isolation, components, etc. I bought the exact same one from the same company a second time, it was much worse quality. These things are kinda hit and miss
When running 2 rectifiers in parallel shouldn't there be a small resister in series with each to force current share?
Ideally yes, but it also increases the losses. They just hope the diodes will not go into thermal disbalance runaway. After all, the diodes are thermally coupled via the board tracks, so their temperature should be similar. Even some good power supplies have parallel power diodes, as long as they share the same heatsink.
@@DiodeGoneWild Thank you for the explanation, I was thinking of slight manufacturing tolerance differences in the diodes Vf / forward current but if both were made in the same batch they would be identical anyway. Your heat dissipation explanation is more elegant though
"It's Running it's Failing..." lol
I have and idea why don't you make a video where you design and make your own phone chager.How a phone chager should be so alot of people here can benefit from it since the circuit look like something we can solder at home.
Does anyone know to which address I can send a device to be analyzed?
Happy Independence Day. Savor your independence; it's not guaranteed.
Super Dodgy....
How long melted hair dryer will survive 😝
Why does brother charger slow down after using 1 year?
Plz solutions with new video
"So the conclusion is..." Why not super extreme dodgy?
No fuse, just the wires inside will act "somewhat like" a type of "fuse" or just the 13/16 amps line breaker. And a capacitor that's rated for... Uhm... Maybe up to 100 volts?
Misses the claimed specs by 10% - okay that's somewhat acceptable.
Nice and very informative videos anyway. Good job 👍🏼
I would class this as super dodgy.
No extreme dodgy?
Thank you for another excellent video, Sir! :) Have an great weekend.
And of course the cat is very cute 😃
I was curious if we can convert a flyback smps supply from 0-12 volt.. The minimum i got was 3.3 volt but i need 0-12 volt... Is it possible i can give external supply to main switching control ic ... Will tl431 and other circuit work with it ??? Share your views.... It would highly appreciated... Thanks.
What are the potential risks a device may face (a phone for example) when being charged by this dodgy charger.
It may not charge correctly if the charger cannot give the required current. Some dubious chargers give the wrong voltage: over 5.25V can possibly damage devices that expect a 5V power supply, whereas under 4.75V will fail to charge the device properly if at all. If the charger overheats in its case, it can melt the plastic and cause a fire (risk of fire). If any of the components short across to the secondary side, it can make the output live at whatever your mains voltage is (risk of electric shock and death).
Basically, stay safe and only use proper chargers from a trustworthy source.
BLOODY HELL
@4:27 what's its name?
Could at least used 2 caps in series instead of Y1 class.
they cost less than a cent FFS !
Hello, I have a question, is it beneficial when we use 2 diode (or more) in parallel, from what I read in the past they said using 2 diode in parallel cannot double it's current capability. But when diode in series it can increase the voltage rating... Is it true? From what I tried in the past I used 2 diode in parallel to supply some load and both of the diode is getting warm, so I think the load is distributed to both diode.
I really appreciate all your video, they give me so much new knowledge since I'm not really have degree in this kind of electronics 😀
In fact, I've seen a guy from Kasyan TV doing it
When you connect diodes in parallel, the current through them is split, BUT NOT EQUAL. Diodes of the same type even from the same manufacturer will have a slight difference in voltage drop. The diode which has a lower voltage drop will have a slightly greater current than the other diodes if connected in parallel. The greater the difference in voltage drop, the greater the difference in current flowing in the diode.
Similar diodes in parallel will share some current, but without additional series resistance it's very unlikely to be an equal share. The worst problem is that the forward voltage of a silicon diode _decreases_ as it gets hotter, so the diode carrying more current will naturally get hotter and then take even more current. Having the diodes in good thermal contact (e.g. bolted to the same heatsink in a TO220 package) will help minimise this effect.
Okay, thankyou everyone.
Question... I got a 240v power drill instead of a 110v one. My question is is there anything I can do with the 240 volt? Or should I just rip the copper winding off to reuse the wire?
Sell it on ebay
My friend gave me one of these but it has 6 USB ports but otherwise it's the same, I never used it
Super doggy
👍
That thing seems to be a shitty joke: no fuse, an tiny cy-capacitor and a dodgy transformer.
Chinesium as we know it ...
don t destroy good chargers
Scenario #1: You go to plug in your phone, and that's the last thing you do.
Scenario #2: Burns your house down, insurance claims the fire chief says it was the fake uncertified Chinese charger responsible for the fire, and refuses to pay! Just the excuse they needed.
You become homeless just because you thought it was OK to buy the cheapest charger from AliExpress or Amazon.
Then you cry some more....
Charger from outside:
When you see a beautiful women 😱
Charger from inside:
When you hear her carecter is loose 🤧
Noice🗿
Cat is wrong😡 like all cat.
I have to disagree. It's dangerous, not dodgy.
Another reason to stay away from Chinese chargers.
Any made by names like apple, or any real Japanese brands, is the best way to go.
The rest is garbage imo. Specially these Chinese knockoffs and El Cheapos with fake certifications.
this guy has some wierd fetish on destroying perfectly functioning USB power supplys.
Im much more pissed with recent things like millions of swollen lithium batteries purposely made impossiible to inspect or change, inside laptops or phones, that people even dont know they are swolen for years.
Hi DiodeGoneWild, I have been following you. You do a great work. I work for NextPCB. We would like to sponsor your projects. You can send a DM for more details.
/Dolphin
The "M7" diode is a 1n4007 - NO WAY USEFUL for SNUBBER!!!!!!!!!!! ....way too slow! The snubber will actually be a RC ONLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ....NOT GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks
👍