I think you explained the process well. A person must own one of these drills to completely understand. I no longer use mixes with small seed and large seed together. I buy them separately and put them in the correct seed box. Great job thanks!
Mark It is because of you and your “Detailed” explanations (they are great), that I bought a Tar River DEL-072 drill. You should be getting some type of compensation from Tar River for your explanations. The depth adjustments and the seed distribution adjustments are exactly like you explained. FYI. By my math computations I came up to using 18 revolutions of the roll cage for the seed cup weight. Once again, Thank You for these videos. You’re right about the manual being wrong regarding the clockwise turning of the depth control knob. Turning clockwise does raise the roll cage, which in turn makes the discs go deeper. And your notation about removing the knobs and using a wrench is spot on! Thanks
Hey Earl, thank you for the kind words, and confirmation about the users manual. I probably should be getting some kind of compensation from those guys, but I NEVER intended to be a voice for them or to sell anything, and don't want to either to keep the integrity of the channel (NO conflict of interest allowed!) . I just wanted to get info out to all of us guys tring to convert to no-till on a budget. Hope the drill is working out as intended. All the best to you.
I recently picked up the Tar River Saya 507 and used it for my spring planting. Upon inspection of the fields it appears that maybe my seed depth was too shallow because of the clay soil in Virginia. I kept manually trying to tighten the black knob with my hands and just couldn’t turn it much and was afraid I would break something so I stopped. I searched RUclips for help but there wasn’t much available. Just watching your video added several years of experience without going through the trial and error process. I cannot thank you enough and I bet you know how I’m feeling now. Really happy and now have more confidence for the fall planting. David
Hey Justin, hope all is well with you. It was never my intent to promote Tar River in any way, just to help guys find an affordable way to convert to no-till. If I have accomplished that, then I can sleep well at night. All the best to you.
I do not own one of these drills or any drill. Saying that, this video was helpful beyond measure! Every manufacturer of equipment should just hire you to do an explanation video and use video of said equipment. I’ve thought about investing in a drill, and besides cost, I was always leery because I don’t know the first thing on how to use it or how it works. After watching this video, I’m confident that I could use that drill without issue. This video deserves 100,000 views.
Great info. Last year I no-tilled alfalfa and red clover with my DRL072. What I did was I added milorganite to the seed and then set the drill on a very low setting. It actually worked really well. The seed was about the same size as the fertilizer so I didn't have any sifting or settling of the seed.
Great idea! I have a small plot of clover I am going to drill in up by the house this year, so will get experience using the small seed box and calibration. Looking forward to seeing how it performs. All the best to you.
Hey Craig, thank you. No, I haven't used fertilizer on the food plots at all since starting the no-till process, so can't help you there. Good luck this season!
I think you did pretty good with the presentation on this drill Mark. Kudos. The SAYA is a bit more complicated on depth due to the slicing coulters and it can be a bit wonky to adjust. Same principles....but the drill openers can "teeter" between the slicer coulters and the drive wheel to complicate these settings. A hydraulic top link is a savior to many of us with the SAYA drills. Easy to tweak a bit to change depth slightly. I do my calibrating a bit different too....but there are allot of ways to skin that cat. I used a pair of long "under the bed" plastic tubs from Fleet Farm to catch the seeds under all of my double disk openers. 24 revolutions of the drive wheel is 100 feet of travel on these drills. Then its easy to do the math to get an acre's worth of seed. Also....when doing it with all the openers.....you can easily see that all the seed cups are operating about the same by the seed that drops though the openers and into those "totes". No bags or fooling around with clamps.....etc. No "right" or "wrong".....just do whatever works for you. I like your content.....and you offer allot of common sense to these issues. Best.
Hey Joe, thanks. Yes, still like the Tar River and am happy with the purchase and it's performance, although I would rather have an old farm duty drill. The Tar River gets the job done, but is light duty, and I don't know the long term durability. It's still fine after a few years of use now, and I can't say that I see any issue coming, but a farm drill is much much more durable. My opinion is that you should check the used market for farm duty drills for a while first, and if you don't find something, or the used market prices are too high now, then pull the trigger on the Tar River. All the best to you.
I too have the DRL 072, and really like the way it seeds in the sandy soil that I have to work with. I've found that grasses grow very well in this type of soil and I'm going to try a mix from Outsidepride seed company in Oregon. It's a food plot mix called Sweet Spot Northern Blend, a perennial mix of high sugar grasses, clover, chicory, and a small amount of purple top turnips. I wanted to let you know that an oil filter wrench works excellent at turning the black plastic knob for depth adjustment.
Thanks for the info on the mix. Let us know how it performs and if you would plant it again. The oil filter wrench is a great idea! All the best to you.
Thanks for the video. I am having trouble getting my drill to the 3/4 inch on the roller like you have. Are there any additional tips that you could share to make this adjustment. Thanks in advance.
@@theback40 I leveled the machine on the concrete as you suggested but for some reason I cannot get the roll cage to raise up to the 3/4 inch as you demonstrated in the video. I cranked the adjustment rods well past the 3.5 inches suggested and the roll cage moved some and it seemed that we were putting a sever amount of stress on the adjustment rods. I even set the machine up on some blocks to take the weight off of the frame but still wasnt able to get the depth set. I did take the machine out out to level ground to see just where we were on the depth and it appeared that the depth was close but then the roll cage wasnt contacting the ground.
@@rodneycole4580 I discovered this year that adding weight to the drill significantly helped with depth control and keeping the roll cage in contact with the ground. I filled 5 gallon buckets with water (they have screw on covers to keep the water from splashing out) so were around 40 pounds each, and put 5 of them on the back shelf, PLUS two old window weights, for a grand total of around 250-300 pounds. Sorry, but I can't figure out why your drill isn't adjusting without being there to see it? I will say that the deeper you adjust it, the tension on the frame gets more intense. The deepest I ever planted was 1.5", and it was a little scarey cranking it that far, which is what probably broke the small handles on the adjustment nuts, and why I now have to use a wrench. but getting to 3/4" shouldn't be a problem. Hmmmm. Maybe I just need more coffee this morning?
@@theback40 Thanks for the response. I thought about adding weight which should help. I just can’t figure out why i cant get the depth needed. Anyway i will keep trying. An additional question is how do you clean your drill? We are thinking about mixing pellet lime in with the clover seed to control the seed rate. Just wondering how one would clean the drill after using the lime.
@@rodneycole4580 I have only run seed through it, no fertilizer or lime, so I just vacuum out the cups when done. Most of the parts are stainless steel or plastic, I think the only parts that could be a problem are the bolts, they are not stainless steel. They will probably corrode, but I don't see where that would affect performance?
WOW...a fantastic video...thanks. The BEST I have seen explaining the adjustments on the drill. Have you used the small seed box to do any planting? We have not, just the large one. We will calibrate the unit using your suggestions. With no rain for 6 weeks and the ground being so hard we had to lightly disc we had to lightly disc to get the seed in the ground. Thanks again for an EXCELLENT VIDEO. Bob
Thanks Mark, let me know your setting. I think my 507 is a little different as I have some down pressure wheels to turn for adjustment on the disc wheels...but your videos hare REALLY helpful. We had 1/10" of rain yesterday. Bob
Mark, thanks for sharing your research. I'm interested in your experiences in drilling seed mixes. In your video you set your drill at 3/4 of an inch as a compromise between big seed maybe around 1 1/2- 2 inches and small seed around 1/4-1/2 inches. I think you posted your video about a month ago, how did that 3/4 inch setting work out for the germination of both the big and small seeds? I have been taking two passes one at 1 1/2 inch with my big seeds and one at 1/2 inch for small seeds. I'd like to drill it all in one pass but haven't had good germination when I do. thanks again for your videos I look forward to each new session.
Hey Joe, it is hard to tell this year, since we got a 6 week drought immediately after planting. I don't think the results would give you or me the right answer to the depth question, so I am going to pass on this one. I'll have more confidence in the answer if we have normal precipitation amounts at planting. Let's see what this fall comes up with... All the best to you.
Thank you!! First months and season with DRL072 here. VERY helpful video and explanations!! One question; Have you looked at and adjusted the pins holding the “flaps” just under each seed cup?
@@theback40 It seems they could restrict flows, and potentially create a bottle neck just passed the seed feed gear slots if not “opened” enough. Just curious on your thoughts. Thanks!
Mark. Finally got the depth right on the drill and have actually planed some of my food plants. As a result of the planting I had a disk work itself off of the drill. I managed to find the dust cap and the nut that hold the disk on the drill. I looked at the other disks and noticed several of the screws had come out or were very loose. Now i have to replace the nuts and figure out how to do that without taking the disks off of the drill. Have you experienced this issue? If so how did you secure the drill high enough to work on it. Looking for suggestions.on how to work on this thing safely without having to get under it or how to block it up so i can work on it without it falling on me??????
Hey Rodney, good to hear you got some seed in the ground. I hope I don't jinx myself, but no, I haven't had that issue with the drill, but I'll be checking next spring before planting for sure! Sorry I can't help you on that one. Good luck this season!
@@theback40 thanks for the feedback. I actually have several of the dust caps that have dropped screws around the disk mounting plate. I just have to figure out how to get to the plate to replace the bolts and nuts etc.
Unfortunately, I can't say one way or the other. I do not have any experience with any other drills, so don't know if Tar River made any changes to their design or parts that would make this measurement obsolete. All the best to you.
THanks for the reply. Your videos have been extremely helpful. I am using a Tar River DRL 072 for the first time to plant my fall plots. Just waiting for rain. @@theback40
Hey Mark, got mine from Burnips in Coopersville: www.burnips.com/locations-hours/. However, my buddy was just up in to Ebels in Faulmouth and said he saw a couple in stock there, might want to give them a call? www.ebelshardware.com/. Good luck!
Hey Joe, I added even more this year, so around 250-300 pounds. This year in addition to a couple old window weights, I filled five 5 gallon buckets with water (they have screw tops on them) and strapped them on the back shelf, worked MUCH better. All the best to you.
Hey Steve, my opinion would be the Genesis would outlast the Tar River by many many planted acres. The Genesis is by far a superior machine. However, If you are only planting a few acres each year, the Tar River would do you well enough and keep a lot of cash in your pocket. If you are planting a lot of acres every year, the Genesis would put you ahead over time. All the best to you.
@@theback40 thanks for the reply. My 30hp tractor could only handle the smallest genesis because they are so heavy. We do only plant a few acres on our 80 acres. After searching last night, we don’t have a dealership for a tar river near us. We are in ste gen, mo. I can always travel to pick up a drill but I worry about part support.
@@hickoryridgefarms Good point on the parts availability. You might do better to keep looking for a used one in the same price range for brands that have dealerships around you so you can get parts if needed.
The reason for putting down and driving 500ft in the field is depending on soil type, soil moisture and even temperature of the soil can cause the driver roller to slip and throw off your calibration/application rate. I've seen it change as much as 20% because of the changing conditions
Great point, I never thought of that! This process assumes 100% contact and perfect roller performance, which is probably not always true out in the field, hmmmm. All the best to you.
Hey Steven, I never even thought about it, but that would make a few of my other attachments much easier too (brush hog, box blade etc...). I'll be looking into this. You probably have one on the Kioti? All the best to you.
I think you explained the process well. A person must own one of these drills to completely understand. I no longer use mixes with small seed and large seed together. I buy them separately and put them in the correct seed box. Great job thanks!
That is a good idea, too, and you probably get much more accurate seeding dispersion. I might have to give this a try sometime. All the best to you.
Mark
It is because of you and your “Detailed” explanations (they are great), that I bought a Tar River DEL-072 drill. You should be getting some type of compensation from Tar River for your explanations. The depth adjustments and the seed distribution adjustments are exactly like you explained. FYI. By my math computations I came up to using 18 revolutions of the roll cage for the seed cup weight. Once again, Thank You for these videos. You’re right about the manual being wrong regarding the clockwise turning of the depth control knob. Turning clockwise does raise the roll cage, which in turn makes the discs go deeper. And your notation about removing the knobs and using a wrench is spot on! Thanks
Hey Earl, thank you for the kind words, and confirmation about the users manual. I probably should be getting some kind of compensation from those guys, but I NEVER intended to be a voice for them or to sell anything, and don't want to either to keep the integrity of the channel (NO conflict of interest allowed!) . I just wanted to get info out to all of us guys tring to convert to no-till on a budget. Hope the drill is working out as intended. All the best to you.
I recently picked up the Tar River Saya 507 and used it for my spring planting. Upon inspection of the fields it appears that maybe my seed depth was too shallow because of the clay soil in Virginia. I kept manually trying to tighten the black knob with my hands and just couldn’t turn it much and was afraid I would break something so I stopped. I searched RUclips for help but there wasn’t much available. Just watching your video added several years of experience without going through the trial and error process. I cannot thank you enough and I bet you know how I’m feeling now. Really happy and now have more confidence for the fall planting. David
Hey David, congrats on the new drill! Enjoy the process of learning the "art" of adjusting your machine. All the best to you.
Thank you for sharing. I know multiple people that watch your videos and based on that, have purchased a tar river!
Hey Justin, hope all is well with you. It was never my intent to promote Tar River in any way, just to help guys find an affordable way to convert to no-till. If I have accomplished that, then I can sleep well at night. All the best to you.
I do not own one of these drills or any drill. Saying that, this video was helpful beyond measure! Every manufacturer of equipment should just hire you to do an explanation video and use video of said equipment. I’ve thought about investing in a drill, and besides cost, I was always leery because I don’t know the first thing on how to use it or how it works. After watching this video, I’m confident that I could use that drill without issue. This video deserves 100,000 views.
Thank you so much for the kind words. All the best to you.
best content on youtube today. thanks for the lesson.
Thanks James! All the best to you.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It has helped me tremendously with my new 507. The manual is pretty much useless.
Glad it helped! Hope your planting goes well. All the best to you.
Great info. Last year I no-tilled alfalfa and red clover with my DRL072. What I did was I added milorganite to the seed and then set the drill on a very low setting. It actually worked really well. The seed was about the same size as the fertilizer so I didn't have any sifting or settling of the seed.
Great idea! I have a small plot of clover I am going to drill in up by the house this year, so will get experience using the small seed box and calibration. Looking forward to seeing how it performs. All the best to you.
Lee...what setting did you use on the small box and how many lbs. of Milorganite and how many lbs. clover did you use?
Good video on settings. What about a fertilizer video? Do you use the small seed hopper for fertilizer?
Hey Craig, thank you. No, I haven't used fertilizer on the food plots at all since starting the no-till process, so can't help you there. Good luck this season!
I think you did pretty good with the presentation on this drill Mark. Kudos. The SAYA is a bit more complicated on depth due to the slicing coulters and it can be a bit wonky to adjust. Same principles....but the drill openers can "teeter" between the slicer coulters and the drive wheel to complicate these settings. A hydraulic top link is a savior to many of us with the SAYA drills. Easy to tweak a bit to change depth slightly.
I do my calibrating a bit different too....but there are allot of ways to skin that cat. I used a pair of long "under the bed" plastic tubs from Fleet Farm to catch the seeds under all of my double disk openers. 24 revolutions of the drive wheel is 100 feet of travel on these drills. Then its easy to do the math to get an acre's worth of seed. Also....when doing it with all the openers.....you can easily see that all the seed cups are operating about the same by the seed that drops though the openers and into those "totes". No bags or fooling around with clamps.....etc. No "right" or "wrong".....just do whatever works for you.
I like your content.....and you offer allot of common sense to these issues. Best.
Thanks Tom. Agree on a lot of ways to skin the cat on this one, and most of them are probably better than how I do it, LOL. All the best to you.
Hey, great video and information! I just assembled the Chinese version of your seeder. Would it be possible to get a copy of your excel spreadsheet?
Yes, send me your email. You can get my email on the "About" tab on our channel. All the best to you.
Thank you! Really appreciate the explanation! Considering purchasing a 72- and I not really good with Manuals. Followed along to the T- Thank again.
Hey Scott, thanks for the comment. All the best to you.
Great video. You still like the Tar River? I’ve been thinking of getting the 507 no till.
Hey Joe, thanks. Yes, still like the Tar River and am happy with the purchase and it's performance, although I would rather have an old farm duty drill. The Tar River gets the job done, but is light duty, and I don't know the long term durability. It's still fine after a few years of use now, and I can't say that I see any issue coming, but a farm drill is much much more durable. My opinion is that you should check the used market for farm duty drills for a while first, and if you don't find something, or the used market prices are too high now, then pull the trigger on the Tar River. All the best to you.
Great video keep them coming
Thanks! Will do!
I too have the DRL 072, and really like the way it seeds in the sandy soil that I have to work with. I've found that grasses grow very well in this type of soil and I'm going to try a mix from Outsidepride seed company in Oregon. It's a food plot mix called Sweet Spot Northern Blend, a perennial mix of high sugar grasses, clover, chicory, and a small amount of purple top turnips. I wanted to let you know that an oil filter wrench works excellent at turning the black plastic knob for depth adjustment.
Thanks for the info on the mix. Let us know how it performs and if you would plant it again. The oil filter wrench is a great idea! All the best to you.
Thanks for sharing Mark to the people who hasn’t run a drill
Hey Randy, you bet! All the best to you.
Thanks for the video. I am having trouble getting my drill to the 3/4 inch on the roller like you have. Are there any additional tips that you could share to make this adjustment. Thanks in advance.
Hey Rodney, could you please expand a bit on what problems you are having? I can't think of anything else to suggest at this moment.
@@theback40 I leveled the machine on the concrete as you suggested but for some reason I cannot get the roll cage to raise up to the 3/4 inch as you demonstrated in the video. I cranked the adjustment rods well past the 3.5 inches suggested and the roll cage moved some and it seemed that we were putting a sever amount of stress on the adjustment rods. I even set the machine up on some blocks to take the weight off of the frame but still wasnt able to get the depth set. I did take the machine out out to level ground to see just where we were on the depth and it appeared that the depth was close but then the roll cage wasnt contacting the ground.
@@rodneycole4580 I discovered this year that adding weight to the drill significantly helped with depth control and keeping the roll cage in contact with the ground. I filled 5 gallon buckets with water (they have screw on covers to keep the water from splashing out) so were around 40 pounds each, and put 5 of them on the back shelf, PLUS two old window weights, for a grand total of around 250-300 pounds. Sorry, but I can't figure out why your drill isn't adjusting without being there to see it? I will say that the deeper you adjust it, the tension on the frame gets more intense. The deepest I ever planted was 1.5", and it was a little scarey cranking it that far, which is what probably broke the small handles on the adjustment nuts, and why I now have to use a wrench. but getting to 3/4" shouldn't be a problem. Hmmmm. Maybe I just need more coffee this morning?
@@theback40 Thanks for the response. I thought about adding weight which should help. I just can’t figure out why i cant get the depth needed. Anyway i will keep trying. An additional question is how do you clean your drill? We are thinking about mixing pellet lime in with the clover seed to control the seed rate. Just wondering how one would clean the drill after using the lime.
@@rodneycole4580 I have only run seed through it, no fertilizer or lime, so I just vacuum out the cups when done. Most of the parts are stainless steel or plastic, I think the only parts that could be a problem are the bolts, they are not stainless steel. They will probably corrode, but I don't see where that would affect performance?
WOW...a fantastic video...thanks. The BEST I have seen explaining the adjustments on the drill. Have you used the small seed box to do any planting? We have not, just the large one. We will calibrate the unit using your suggestions. With no rain for 6 weeks and the ground being so hard we had to lightly disc we had to lightly disc to get the seed in the ground. Thanks again for an EXCELLENT VIDEO. Bob
Thanks Bob. I haven't used the small seed box, yet. But plan to drill in some clover around the house if we ever get rain. All the best to you.
Thanks Mark, let me know your setting. I think my 507 is a little different as I have some down pressure wheels to turn for adjustment on the disc wheels...but your videos hare REALLY helpful. We had 1/10" of rain yesterday. Bob
@@rfb7117 Hey Bob, we are finally getting a few sprinkles today, and I drilled in our crop last night, so perfect timing!
GREAT...we only got 1/10" today, but better than nothing.
@@rfb7117 1/4" here yesterday!
Mark, thanks for sharing your research. I'm interested in your experiences in drilling seed mixes. In your video you set your drill at 3/4 of an inch as a compromise between big seed maybe around 1 1/2- 2 inches and small seed around 1/4-1/2 inches. I think you posted your video about a month ago, how did that 3/4 inch setting work out for the germination of both the big and small seeds? I have been taking two passes one at 1 1/2 inch with my big seeds and one at 1/2 inch for small seeds. I'd like to drill it all in one pass but haven't had good germination when I do. thanks again for your videos I look forward to each new session.
Hey Joe, it is hard to tell this year, since we got a 6 week drought immediately after planting. I don't think the results would give you or me the right answer to the depth question, so I am going to pass on this one. I'll have more confidence in the answer if we have normal precipitation amounts at planting. Let's see what this fall comes up with... All the best to you.
Thank you!! First months and season with DRL072 here. VERY helpful video and explanations!! One question; Have you looked at and adjusted the pins holding the “flaps” just under each seed cup?
Hey Erik, congrats on the new drill! And no, I have not looked at the pins, I'll have to check that out later today. All the best to you.
@@theback40 It seems they could restrict flows, and potentially create a bottle neck just passed the seed feed gear slots if not “opened” enough. Just curious on your thoughts. Thanks!
Great video, thanks!!
Thanks Steve. All the best to you.
Mark. Finally got the depth right on the drill and have actually planed some of my food plants. As a result of the planting I had a disk work itself off of the drill. I managed to find the dust cap and the nut that hold the disk on the drill. I looked at the other disks and noticed several of the screws had come out or were very loose. Now i have to replace the nuts and figure out how to do that without taking the disks off of the drill. Have you experienced this issue? If so how did you secure the drill high enough to work on it. Looking for suggestions.on how to work on this thing safely without having to get under it or how to block it up so i can work on it without it falling on me??????
Hey Rodney, good to hear you got some seed in the ground. I hope I don't jinx myself, but no, I haven't had that issue with the drill, but I'll be checking next spring before planting for sure! Sorry I can't help you on that one. Good luck this season!
@@theback40 thanks for the feedback. I actually have several of the dust caps that have dropped screws around the disk mounting plate. I just have to figure out how to get to the plate to replace the bolts and nuts etc.
@@rodneycole4580 This was some of my hesitation with a light duty drill, ugh.
What seed company are you using mark I like how you can adjust it to what you want
Hey Cory, Green Cover Seed. Here's the link to their "Smart Mix" site: smartmix.greencoverseed.com/
Will the 3.5 inch adjustment on the wheel equate to 3/4 inches of seed depth on all DRL 072 seeders?
Unfortunately, I can't say one way or the other. I do not have any experience with any other drills, so don't know if Tar River made any changes to their design or parts that would make this measurement obsolete. All the best to you.
THanks for the reply. Your videos have been extremely helpful. I am using a Tar River DRL 072 for the first time to plant my fall plots. Just waiting for rain. @@theback40
@@arobi6269 Good luck!
Thank you for this video!!!! I’ve been struggling to find one regarding the model I have and this was super helpful.
Glad to help! All the best to you.
I am also in W MI, where did you buy your drill? Cannot find any nearby dealers
Hey Mark, got mine from Burnips in Coopersville: www.burnips.com/locations-hours/. However, my buddy was just up in to Ebels in Faulmouth and said he saw a couple in stock there, might want to give them a call? www.ebelshardware.com/. Good luck!
Thank you!
would love to get that spreadsheet
Hey Brandon, send me an email to markvwal@gmail and I'll get you a copy.
@@theback40 email sent
@@brandonbank3861 Didn't get it yet?
@@theback40 sent again see if that one makes it
how much weight did you add to your drill?
Hey Joe, I added even more this year, so around 250-300 pounds. This year in addition to a couple old window weights, I filled five 5 gallon buckets with water (they have screw tops on them) and strapped them on the back shelf, worked MUCH better. All the best to you.
I know there is a price difference but I wonder how the genesis drill does against this tar river
Hey Steve, my opinion would be the Genesis would outlast the Tar River by many many planted acres. The Genesis is by far a superior machine. However, If you are only planting a few acres each year, the Tar River would do you well enough and keep a lot of cash in your pocket. If you are planting a lot of acres every year, the Genesis would put you ahead over time. All the best to you.
@@theback40 thanks for the reply. My 30hp tractor could only handle the smallest genesis because they are so heavy. We do only plant a few acres on our 80 acres. After searching last night, we don’t have a dealership for a tar river near us. We are in ste gen, mo. I can always travel to pick up a drill but I worry about part support.
@@hickoryridgefarms Good point on the parts availability. You might do better to keep looking for a used one in the same price range for brands that have dealerships around you so you can get parts if needed.
How much does one of these drills go for, if you don’t mind my asking?
Hey Paul, this one was $3500 out the door a couple years ago. All the best to you.
Danm good video. Thank you.
Thanks Perry. All the best to you.
The reason for putting down and driving 500ft in the field is depending on soil type, soil moisture and even temperature of the soil can cause the driver roller to slip and throw off your calibration/application rate. I've seen it change as much as 20% because of the changing conditions
Great point, I never thought of that! This process assumes 100% contact and perfect roller performance, which is probably not always true out in the field, hmmmm. All the best to you.
well said...
Thank you!
You need to get a hydraulic top link
Hey Steven, I never even thought about it, but that would make a few of my other attachments much easier too (brush hog, box blade etc...). I'll be looking into this. You probably have one on the Kioti? All the best to you.
I do and worth the investment for sure.
And a quick hitch.
youre really over complicating things. all that math and calculations arent gunna help if you dont have a green thumb.
I have great skill at over complicating things! All the best to you.