Well, may I offer you a suggestion in finding a good honest shop. Two places to visit.. a couple of barber shops and a couple of beauty shops. Customers talk about their auto repair and how they were treated. The shop owners will share this with you if you inquire. So you will start to see where is best shops for repair. Also go to your NAPA parts store, even if you have to travel out of your town to visit one. They have seasoned counter help that know the “best honest shops”. No 17 year counter help giving you advice. This is good advice to remember..file it away in your brain.😊😊
@williamoneal2763 you're absolutely correct. Mrs Wrenching says the customers at the salon she goes to talks about their repair shops all the time. The auto parts store is another good place to find a reputable shop. Thanks for sharing & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
@ I actually use a young man that works in our plant that is unbelievable and very reasonable. He always says I tip him too much (25%) but to me that is part of the appreciation for his talents and honesty! Well worth the money. Plus, at 61, who wants to be freezing your butt off outside when it’s 10 degrees out. My shop is sized perfectly for small engine and tractor work, not cars and trucks!
This question is for Mr. Kenny, and everyone here: 2012 Nissan Pathfinder 4.0 V6. 4X4 Model S Symptoms: #1; when coming to a stop the rpms will fluctuate/jump just before hitting the 1500/2000 rpm mark #2; when accelerating from 40 to 70/80 and when stepping off the gas pedal the rpms will fluctuate/jump up and down. #3; Sometimes, not all the time, while driving when stepping off the gas pedal, the vehicle will jerck forward when stepping on the gas again. NO ERROR CODE TRANSMISSION CHECKED OUT OK NEW OEM THROTTLE BODY, SPEED SENSOR, CRANKSHAFT SENSOR, ALL OEM. This situation is driving my husband insane, he usually is able to find a solution, but with no error code it's been extremely difficult. He is a M.H. disabled Veteran, he really doesn't need any more stress. Any, and all, comments, advised, will be greatly appreciated. P.S. Been to the Nissan dealership, 2 times The last one tried to charge my husband over a $1000.00 for the diagnostic, but without any warrantys that they will find what's the problem.
A very happy customer no doubt. and kudos to the customer asking for a second opinion. And to you too Kenny for being honest and thinking as an Engineer and not a greedy pig. Find it, fix it, ship it. win win.
Just love your videos Kenny. You are an amazing technician. I just can't help but wonder if maybe the possible problem might have been an intermittent fault in the connection? Might it have been worthwhile to plug the old sensor in and test it like you originally tested the new sensor with the metal object? IDK. Just a thought.
Got a 2010 Fit, in the lineup I’ll be doing the same thing with. Range Switch Connector (5 pin, has the S in shifter) P0812. By the time I do the continuity diag procedure I could’ve just replaced the sensor, 3 times probably. Those hose pulling pliers come in handy a lot. I enjoy learning more about CVTs , good stuff. 👍🏼 🔧
My sons buddy had a Taurus that had "transmission" issues and wanted me to confirm it. I opened the hood, checked the fluid level, then test drove it. Had the young man take one of my insulted screw drivers and follow along his plug wires...he arched on one. He replaced it, "transmission" issue solved. Always get a second opine on big jobs.
Kenny, is that a two wire sensor? Long story, but I am a measurement technician. Many sensors in our industry are tested just like that. Common in a ‘turbine’ liquid flow meter that uses a stainless impeller with a small piece of steel on one of the turbine blades for the inductive pickup (the sensor) to sense. The steel goes by and it induces a pulse out of the sensor. Long story short, it is a coil of wire. Do a continuity test. If you get an open circuit it is bad because the wire in the coil broke somewhere. If you are reading say 1000 ohms resistance (really any resistance other than open circuit as it will vary by sensor) your sensor is likely still working. It was just a quick and easy test that you can do without removing the sensor from the car. Your demonstration also works but can be easily confirmed with your multimeter.
For every good shop with good mechanic, there are a least a dozen shops that are just below average in doing true, honest repair. If a big dollar repair is said to be needed, always get a second opinion. 😊😊
The problem is a new transmission will make the shop and the technician more money than a sensor does. The technician can probably make on the flat rate book time for the job and the service writer makes a big sale. There is no money in diagnostic time so a quick verification that a transmission replacement will fix the issue is all that is required. Unless the customer takes it to someone like you that would have been pleased with their new transmission...
The new tranmission wouldn't have fixed the problem, though. So there's that. I just couldn't do business that way. I'm glad my boss can't either. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
I once had a customer bring their car in tho the dealership where I was working for a fuel pump replacement. Absolutely refused a diagnosis, was adamant they wanted the fuel pump replaced. Another place had diagnosed it. So after me clearly writing on the work order "NO DIAGNOSIS, REPLACE FUEL PUMP ONLY" and having them sign it, workshop leading hand asks me what's going on. Told him I couldn't get any info out of the customer about what it's doing or symptoms, just the demand for repair. He decided to check anyway, found there was some dodgy wiring in the area of the relay for the fuel pump. I called the customer, told him what was going on and that it would be $500 CHEAPER to fix it, he got very upset and told us to just do the repair he'd asked for. Cue a $450 part - non returnable now, as it's been fitted - plus around $150 in labour - I made sure to NOT charge for diagnosis time, just the book replacement time for the pump - and he was furious when he came to collect it that the car still didn't run. Thankfully I'd made the service manager aware of the entire situation, he backed me 100 percent, pointing out that I'd had the customer's explicit instructions to NOT diagnose. And that even though we actually HAD done some testing and found the issue - for which he was not charged - the customer refused our advice, telling us to carry on regardless. It would have saved him $500 or thereabouts and left him with a mobile, running car he could use rather than organising yet another tow to remove it.
Driving a 2013 with the auto manual that has nearly 267 thousand miles. The fluid has never been changed. Looks and smells bad. I won't change it at this point. The transmission acts fine 98% of the time. Once in awhile there is a shutter/jerk in I think 3rd. Fairly sure but it does it so rare I am not paying attention. More comment thing it does it will upshift to 3rd and shift right back down to 2nd. If I drive it just a little aggressive it doesn't do any of that. Been a great little car
I tell ya, it's ridiculous the diagnoses some of these shops come up with. They either don't understand how the vehicle's systems function, want to sell a transmission job or just want to send the customer down the road, because they don't want to admit their incompetence.
lol, I googled the P0717 for Honda while I was watching this video and the first site the pops up shows a picture of the sensor. What kind of shop wouldn't at least do that? And there is no way that old sensor was removed and checked. I guess you can make more money replacing the transmission instead of a $30 sensor
I see you used Standard Parts. I'm not happy with them right now. I lost 2 coil packs when the cold snap came thru last week. I bought them based on the 3 year warranty. They have about 3K miles on them. Good thing I keep all the old ones for emergency spares. I have a big trip coming up and I will be taking my spares and some tools with me just in case I have any failures. What do you guys think of "Standard Parts"???🤔🤔🤔
Here is my take..I am 85 self taught, work only on my or family’s cars. I will use a standard part if it is somewhat easy to get to for replacement. Now if I am putting a part internally and if difficult to get to, I will use a good well known repair part. I may even buy a dealer part. Sometime a cheap part to put in a difficult place is not worth the risk. Best to you.😊😊
@maraudersr1043 They are not my first choice but if that is all that is available at the time, that's what I go with. Not the best but certainly not the worst by a long shot. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
@williamoneal2763 I completely agree with you.Time constraints often dictate what I end up putting in. Standard Parts are a good mid level grade part & readily available. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It's always appreciated. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
@milfordcivic6755 Honda said the part was a minimum of 3 days out, Monday was a holiday & the customer needed their car. The customer was thrilled to not need a transmission. Plus, the Standard Part comes with the same warranty as the Honda part. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
@@Justiceincorporated. Sometimes on computers there's two separate volume controls, and they like to 'update' and move things around, so it can be confusing... If he's viewing on a computer. No need to be rude.
Thar sensor reminded me of the F250 I used to have wouldn't shift then would slam in to gear i thought my transmission was going out and it turned out to be speed sensor on rearend replaced it and shifterd good after that
![Путин и ПЕСКОВ ждут звонка от ТРАМПА 😁 [Пародия]](/img/1.gif)
Once again, finding a reputable, trustworthy mechanic is very hard these days. Good on you for being one of those mechanics.
Well, may I offer you a suggestion in finding a good honest shop. Two places to visit..
a couple of barber shops and a couple of beauty shops. Customers talk about their
auto repair and how they were treated. The shop owners will share this with you
if you inquire. So you will start to see where is best shops for repair. Also go to your
NAPA parts store, even if you have to travel out of your town to visit one. They
have seasoned counter help that know the “best honest shops”. No 17 year counter
help giving you advice. This is good advice to remember..file it away in your brain.😊😊
@williamoneal2763 you're absolutely correct. Mrs Wrenching says the customers at the salon she goes to talks about their repair shops all the time. The auto parts store is another good place to find a reputable shop. Thanks for sharing & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
@@williamoneal2763 All my small engine work is word of mouth, 25 years so far, over 700 customers. Good Honest Tech's will always have work!
Go to North Carolina! Mr. Kenny shop is never NOT busy 😃
@ I actually use a young man that works in our plant that is unbelievable and very reasonable. He always says I tip him too much (25%) but to me that is part of the appreciation for his talents and honesty! Well worth the money. Plus, at 61, who wants to be freezing your butt off outside when it’s 10 degrees out. My shop is sized perfectly for small engine and tractor work, not cars and trucks!
I always appreciate and even admire your determination and ability to find and fix whatever comes along.
Thank you for your kind words. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
I love how you talk the way normal people do. You and Eric O. Awesome with my coffee in the morning..
Thank you for the awesome compliment & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Good morning Mr Kenny, Happy Friday 🎉😅. Hope you and Mrs Meg have a great weekend 😊Oh and hello Mrs Meg 😅
Thanks! Happy Friday and you too. Meg says HI Bobby!!! Keep wrenching, brother Kenny
This question is for Mr. Kenny, and everyone here:
2012 Nissan Pathfinder
4.0 V6. 4X4 Model S
Symptoms: #1; when coming to a stop the rpms will fluctuate/jump just before hitting the 1500/2000 rpm mark
#2; when accelerating from 40 to 70/80 and when stepping off the gas pedal the rpms will fluctuate/jump up and down.
#3; Sometimes, not all the time, while driving when stepping off the gas pedal, the vehicle will jerck forward when stepping on the gas again.
NO ERROR CODE
TRANSMISSION CHECKED OUT OK
NEW OEM THROTTLE BODY, SPEED SENSOR, CRANKSHAFT SENSOR, ALL OEM. This situation is driving my husband insane, he usually is able to find a solution, but with no error code it's been extremely difficult. He is a M.H. disabled Veteran, he really doesn't need any more stress. Any, and all, comments, advised, will be greatly appreciated.
P.S. Been to the Nissan dealership, 2 times
The last one tried to charge my husband over a $1000.00 for the diagnostic, but without any warrantys that they will find what's the problem.
I would still service the transmission ! But good call !
A very happy customer no doubt. and kudos to the customer asking for a second opinion. And to you too Kenny for being honest and thinking as an Engineer and not a greedy pig. Find it, fix it, ship it. win win.
Thank you for your kind words. People are struggling. I just try to do the right thing & fix what is broken. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Kenny just gained an other customer 👍👍👍
They were very happy. Thanks for watching. I hope you are doing well. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Every day is a learning day with Kenny ,Honest, loads of tips and little gems ,brilliant
1", and 1/2" extensions come in clutch in situations like this for that bolt. Great show Kenny!!!
Great job, thanks for teaching us shade tree mechanics.
That damn compressor needs to be outside! Lol
😂
That person lives down one of those red, sandy/clay dirt roads in N.C.
Dr Bill for win. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
I would say pull the old sensor and test it like you did the new one to see if that's the trouble then. If bad, buy a new one
Experience, logic and good diagnostic skills.
Just love your videos Kenny. You are an amazing technician. I just can't help but wonder if maybe the possible problem might have been an intermittent fault in the connection? Might it have been worthwhile to plug the old sensor in and test it like you originally tested the new sensor with the metal object? IDK. Just a thought.
Got a 2010 Fit, in the lineup I’ll be doing the same thing with. Range Switch Connector (5 pin, has the S in shifter) P0812. By the time I do the continuity diag procedure I could’ve just replaced the sensor, 3 times probably.
Those hose pulling pliers come in handy a lot.
I enjoy learning more about CVTs , good stuff. 👍🏼 🔧
You're right, sometimes replacing the part is faster than testing it. I'm glad you learned some things! Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
My sons buddy had a Taurus that had "transmission" issues and wanted me to confirm it. I opened the hood, checked the fluid level, then test drove it.
Had the young man take one of my insulted screw drivers and follow along his plug wires...he arched on one.
He replaced it, "transmission" issue solved.
Always get a second opine on big jobs.
Kenny, is that a two wire sensor?
Long story, but I am a measurement technician. Many sensors in our industry are tested just like that.
Common in a ‘turbine’ liquid flow meter that uses a stainless impeller with a small piece of steel on one of the turbine blades for the inductive pickup (the sensor) to sense. The steel goes by and it induces a pulse out of the sensor.
Long story short, it is a coil of wire. Do a continuity test. If you get an open circuit it is bad because the wire in the coil broke somewhere. If you are reading say 1000 ohms resistance (really any resistance other than open circuit as it will vary by sensor) your sensor is likely still working. It was just a quick and easy test that you can do without removing the sensor from the car.
Your demonstration also works but can be easily confirmed with your multimeter.
For every good shop with good mechanic, there are a least a dozen shops
that are just below average in doing true, honest repair. If a big dollar repair is
said to be needed, always get a second opinion. 😊😊
Absolutely!! You are so right about that! Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Awesome brilliant repair 😊
Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Good fix 👊🏻
The problem is a new transmission will make the shop and the technician more money than a sensor does.
The technician can probably make on the flat rate book time for the job and the service writer makes a big sale. There is no money in diagnostic time so a quick verification that a transmission replacement will fix the issue is all that is required.
Unless the customer takes it to someone like you that would have been pleased with their new transmission...
The new tranmission wouldn't have fixed the problem, though. So there's that. I just couldn't do business that way. I'm glad my boss can't either. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
You're a master!!
Great work Kenny saving the customer alot of money and a big headache....Experience goes a long ways
I have a 3/8" Snap-On ratchet head snapped off in my new Honda drain bolt.. you'll see sometime soon 🙂
Awfully tricky replacing that sensor. Good diagnostic 👍
Great video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching! Kenny
i think you should check this sensor if its change resistance with temperatures change its bad.
You need chopsticks fingers to get to the sensor!
😂😂😂 mine are more like egg rolls! Thanks for the laugh. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
I once had a customer bring their car in tho the dealership where I was working for a fuel pump replacement. Absolutely refused a diagnosis, was adamant they wanted the fuel pump replaced. Another place had diagnosed it. So after me clearly writing on the work order "NO DIAGNOSIS, REPLACE FUEL PUMP ONLY" and having them sign it, workshop leading hand asks me what's going on. Told him I couldn't get any info out of the customer about what it's doing or symptoms, just the demand for repair. He decided to check anyway, found there was some dodgy wiring in the area of the relay for the fuel pump. I called the customer, told him what was going on and that it would be $500 CHEAPER to fix it, he got very upset and told us to just do the repair he'd asked for.
Cue a $450 part - non returnable now, as it's been fitted - plus around $150 in labour - I made sure to NOT charge for diagnosis time, just the book replacement time for the pump - and he was furious when he came to collect it that the car still didn't run. Thankfully I'd made the service manager aware of the entire situation, he backed me 100 percent, pointing out that I'd had the customer's explicit instructions to NOT diagnose. And that even though we actually HAD done some testing and found the issue - for which he was not charged - the customer refused our advice, telling us to carry on regardless. It would have saved him $500 or thereabouts and left him with a mobile, running car he could use rather than organising yet another tow to remove it.
Aside from transmission assembly gel, what kinds of grease or lubricants are safe to use on sensors and O-rings?
Driving a 2013 with the auto manual that has nearly 267 thousand miles. The fluid has never been changed. Looks and smells bad. I won't change it at this point. The transmission acts fine 98% of the time. Once in awhile there is a shutter/jerk in I think 3rd. Fairly sure but it does it so rare I am not paying attention. More comment thing it does it will upshift to 3rd and shift right back down to 2nd.
If I drive it just a little aggressive it doesn't do any of that. Been a great little car
Good info😊
I tell ya, it's ridiculous the diagnoses some of these shops come up with. They either don't understand how the vehicle's systems function, want to sell a transmission job or just want to send the customer down the road, because they don't want to admit their incompetence.
I've heard that same story a hundred times. I know exactly what you mean. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Nice.
lol, I googled the P0717 for Honda while I was watching this video and the first site the pops up shows a picture of the sensor. What kind of shop wouldn't at least do that? And there is no way that old sensor was removed and checked. I guess you can make more money replacing the transmission instead of a $30 sensor
Nice...
Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
I see you used Standard Parts. I'm not happy with them right now. I lost 2 coil packs when the cold snap came thru last week. I bought them based on the 3 year warranty. They have about 3K miles on them. Good thing I keep all the old ones for emergency spares. I have a big trip coming up and I will be taking my spares and some tools with me just in case I have any failures. What do you guys think of "Standard Parts"???🤔🤔🤔
Here is my take..I am 85 self taught, work only on my or family’s cars. I will use a
standard part if it is somewhat easy to get to for replacement. Now if I am putting
a part internally and if difficult to get to, I will use a good well known repair part.
I may even buy a dealer part. Sometime a cheap part to put in a difficult place is
not worth the risk. Best to you.😊😊
I would have bought the sensor direct from Honda. You can't ever go wrong with OEM parts.
@maraudersr1043 They are not my first choice but if that is all that is available at the time, that's what I go with. Not the best but certainly not the worst by a long shot. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
@williamoneal2763 I completely agree with you.Time constraints often dictate what I end up putting in. Standard Parts are a good mid level grade part & readily available. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It's always appreciated. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
@milfordcivic6755 Honda said the part was a minimum of 3 days out, Monday was a holiday & the customer needed their car. The customer was thrilled to not need a transmission. Plus, the Standard Part comes with the same warranty as the Honda part. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Amazing
LAUNCH X431 CRP919E Elite OBD2 Scanner currently unavailable on Amazon.
Your hand injury looks like a Morse Code. _ __ _.
...Two auto shop students drove their car into the classroom, "... ba dum-psssh
Thought Hondas never broke. That is the kool-aid that Honda is selling.
Chevy told me iI needed a trans, the plug to it was broken dummies.
Needing a new transmission. Toyota and Honda NO, Nissan YES.
Like your videos, but your volume. You need to do something about that.
Thanks for the feedback! I'll see what I can do. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Nothing wrong with the volume
Nothing wrong with volume here.
There’s a control on your device…use it.
@@Justiceincorporated. Sometimes on computers there's two separate volume controls, and they like to 'update' and move things around, so it can be confusing... If he's viewing on a computer. No need to be rude.
Great video Kenny very informative
Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
Thar sensor reminded me of the F250 I used to have wouldn't shift then would slam in to gear i thought my transmission was going out and it turned out to be speed sensor on rearend replaced it and shifterd good after that