I've just purchased this kit, your videos will be a great help when i start building mine, which will be some time off, I'll start the build in the winter time too keep me occupied when i can't get out on my motorbike here in the UK, please keep the videos coming 😊
I admire your carving skills. Something I'm not at all talented at. It's turning out to be a fantastic looking boat. Will definitely be keeping an eye out for the paint job. Godspeed on your channel.
I have never tried the Clear Coat to fix the fibreglass cloth. Must give it a try on my next model. Many thanks. Enjoying watching the construction videos. 👍
I would have tried to see how easily the wood filler reactivates when exposed to water because if the fiber glass cracks and water seeps in via capillary action then it could be somewhat of a disaster, still looking forward to seeing the final project, you're awesome
Thanks for the comments 👍. I don’t think that will be a major risk. The wood filler was sealed with resin, then covered in fibreglass, then coated twice in resin. Then it will be coated in primer, paint and clear coat. And the boat will only be in the water for 20 minutes at a time. But only time will tell 🤞😉
I am working on the kit and am very new to model building you do not mention if you fibre glass the decking so I am not sure if the deck needs covering great video's very helpful thanks
I built the Precedent Perkasa over many years. They are fantastic looking scale boats and look great at speed. May I suggest a razor plane for timber work - they are great to use.
Have just used the eze-cote on the Sea Scout model, onky problem is, it doesn't seem to want to dry/set. Normally use a 2 part epoxy, thought I'd try this, but not happy with it. Good build of yours, you made the planking look easy.
In case nobody has mentioned it, the cross plank covering of the hull (in Part 1) is how the whole of the hulls of the orginal MTB's were constructed. It was easy to build and very strong but virtually impossibel to repair if the inner layer sustained water damage. For every advantage there is a disadvantage!
New subscriber here. I thought I was watching a bloke in the UK until I noticed TimberMate and when you were outside the trees were not British🤣 Best wishes from across the Nullaboor
Awesome video. I've been wanting to build a large scale PT boat or PIBR for some time, but can't find free plans. Can any of your viewers help me please ?
I'm loving that build mate we're you ever tempted to tinkercad that complex doorway shape as you are quite skilled in cad. I would have drawn it up in sketchup and and printed it out on my 3d printer .
Many people put a cooling system for the ESC and Motor on this type of Boat, you don't mention it, what are your thoughts on the need for it or not, I have just purchased the kit. Great Videos, Regards Paul
For the filler you could have gone to a luthier supplier and used a grain filler, you just paint it on - as many coats as needed and is easier to sand.
Hello, I accidentally saw your video and thought I'd keep watching. I'm a professional shipbuilder (also model builder) here in the Netherlands and I think you've done it a bit wrong. Normally you place the boat (with the deck) upside down on a flat wooden plank. The wooden plank needs to be a bit thick to be able to handle tensions and forces. If the boat is upside down you can secure it (it shouldn't be difficult to figure out how to do that) and if you screw that around the side of the boat (or with nails OR screws) into the plank you can use wooden wedges to clamp the slat around it and thus glue it. (I hope I was clear enough) (By the way? Aren't you going to cover the propeller shaft?) Greetings and succes from NL the Rotterdam area! Rob
Thanks for the comments and tips 👍. I can understand your recommendation but I still think it would have been difficult for this particular strip, especially to ensure it was perfectly aligned with the deck 🤔
I've just purchased this kit, your videos will be a great help when i start building mine, which will be some time off, I'll start the build in the winter time too keep me occupied when i can't get out on my motorbike here in the UK, please keep the videos coming 😊
Hope you enjoy the build 👍
What a great upload. Thoroughly enjoying this series.
Glad you are enjoying it 👍
The hull turned out really well ,that was an interesting method of fibre glassing ,the super structure fitted together nicely, a very nice kit .
Thank you! Cheers!
I admire your carving skills. Something I'm not at all talented at.
It's turning out to be a fantastic looking boat. Will definitely be keeping an eye out for the paint job.
Godspeed on your channel.
Thank you very much! 👍
I have never tried the Clear Coat to fix the fibreglass cloth. Must give it a try on my next model. Many thanks. Enjoying watching the construction videos. 👍
Thank you. It was EzyCote that was used to fix the fibreglass cloth, not Clear Coat. EzyCote is a resin rather than a varnish or lacquer.
@@modellingmisadventures I realised my mistake when I went onto the DeLuxe website 😂😂😂
Thanks for the update.
Thats really lovely looking kit.
Thanks go to SLEC for that 😉
@@modellingmisadventures i have and i will order one someday.
Very interesting videos John, its coming on nicely, i hope we get to see it operate on water , thanks again from Tony from Bedfordshire,
Thanks Tony. My name is Peter, not John 😉
Looking really nice, looking forward to the next part👍
Thanks so much 👍
I would have tried to see how easily the wood filler reactivates when exposed to water because if the fiber glass cracks and water seeps in via capillary action then it could be somewhat of a disaster, still looking forward to seeing the final project, you're awesome
Thanks for the comments 👍. I don’t think that will be a major risk. The wood filler was sealed with resin, then covered in fibreglass, then coated twice in resin. Then it will be coated in primer, paint and clear coat. And the boat will only be in the water for 20 minutes at a time. But only time will tell 🤞😉
This is shaping up nicely.
Thanks 😊
I am working on the kit and am very new to model building you do not mention if you fibre glass the decking so I am not sure if the deck needs covering great video's very helpful thanks
Another excellent video, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
I built the Precedent Perkasa over many years. They are fantastic looking scale boats and look great at speed. May I suggest a razor plane for timber work - they are great to use.
Yes, I should get one. Always seem to get by with blades and sandpaper 😂
What a great result this far! Congratz :)
Thank you! 😊
Have just used the eze-cote on the Sea Scout model, onky problem is, it doesn't seem to want to dry/set. Normally use a 2 part epoxy, thought I'd try this, but not happy with it. Good build of yours, you made the planking look easy.
I’m not sure why that has happened. Mine dried very quickly within 20 minutes.
My grandad served on one of these (mgb81) in the war it looks lovely
Wow, that is amazing. Very grateful for his service.
Great boat building , it’s motivated me to start having a go, can you do a glider next,( kiel Craft )
Thank you. I have done a Keil Kraft Super 60.
In case nobody has mentioned it, the cross plank covering of the hull (in Part 1) is how the whole of the hulls of the orginal MTB's were constructed. It was easy to build and very strong but virtually impossibel to repair if the inner layer sustained water damage. For every advantage there is a disadvantage!
Thanks for the insight 👍
Looking GOOOOOOD!! 😁👍👍🇺🇸
Thanks 👍
I can't wait for the next video .....hurry up 😉
Working on it!
Ive just ordered this kit myself.
That’s great news 👏
Do you overlap the cloth on the sides over the cloth you put on the bottom first, or just sand both pieces flush with the edge line where they meet?
I overlapped them to give a better seal.
@@modellingmisadventures Did you glass the above deck structure, or just fill and seal it befor painting
@@PaulElliott-b5vDidn’t glass the top. Just coated it with resin.
The slec kits looks lots better than the old precedent kit.
Good to hear. I haven’t seen a Precedent one, other than online.
An alternative to Wood grain filler is to use a sanding sealer (if you want to keep the wood appearance).
Yes, but for this the whole hill will be painted so I don’t think it matters 👍
New subscriber here. I thought I was watching a bloke in the UK until I noticed TimberMate and when you were outside the trees were not British🤣 Best wishes from across the Nullaboor
Yep, you worked it out 😂
Well you got me interested, Here's my Subscribe for you.
Wow she's look great, nice work so far, can't wait to see the next video.
Thank you very much 👍
Awesome video.
I've been wanting to build a large scale PT boat or PIBR for some time, but can't find free plans.
Can any of your viewers help me please ?
Good luck finding them 👍
I'm loving that build mate we're you ever tempted to tinkercad that complex doorway shape as you are quite skilled in cad. I would have drawn it up in sketchup and and printed it out on my 3d printer .
I could have tried that but wanted to stick with the wood if possible 😉
Iv just been given the Hull for the fully complete but with no top/wheelhouse/ bridge ect can you buy that part of the kit separately ?
Not that I’m aware of.
@modellingmisadventures looks like a home made jobby it is then thanks for the reply really appreciate it
If you could get hold of the Tamiya kit you could use that to get the parts right. Or you could just buy the SLEC kit and not build the hull.
Nice one😊
Thank you! Cheers! 👍
How can I order one I live in the USA
Many people put a cooling system for the ESC and Motor on this type of Boat, you don't mention it, what are your thoughts on the need for it or not, I have just purchased the kit. Great Videos, Regards Paul
Any thoughts on this please?
Dove si comprano la scatola di montaggio grazie
Sorry, which box do you mean?
For the filler you could have gone to a luthier supplier and used a grain filler, you just paint it on - as many coats as needed and is easier to sand.
Had to look up what a luthier was 😂
Hello,
I accidentally saw your video and thought I'd keep watching.
I'm a professional shipbuilder (also model builder) here in the Netherlands and I think you've done it a bit wrong.
Normally you place the boat (with the deck) upside down on a flat wooden plank.
The wooden plank needs to be a bit thick to be able to handle tensions and forces.
If the boat is upside down you can secure it (it shouldn't be difficult to figure out how to do that)
and if you screw that around the side of the boat (or with nails OR screws) into the plank you can use wooden wedges to clamp the slat around it and thus glue it.
(I hope I was clear enough) (By the way? Aren't you going to cover the propeller shaft?)
Greetings and succes from NL the Rotterdam area!
Rob
Thanks for the comments and tips 👍. I can understand your recommendation but I still think it would have been difficult for this particular strip, especially to ensure it was perfectly aligned with the deck 🤔
Where can we purchase this model ?
Check out the SLEC website, or look for it online 👍
How thick is that fibreglass mat?
Not sure of its thickness. It is measured by weight per area.
Exellent.
Thank you 👍
1st comment🎉🎉🎉🎉😊
U DONT NEED TO FIBERGLASS IT AT ALL.
Thanks for the advice.