Nick I will definitely watch this whole video in my shop tomorrow.Your transmission videos are some of the best on RUclips.Thanks for sharing your knowledge I or I should say we all appreciate it..
Agree; for an overwhelming majority of applications, the TH350C is perfectly fine...The TCC lock up def helps w/keep trans temps lower and fuel economy (which any little bit is a plus w/ a three speed non-OD transmission). I'll get into some of the justifications for converting when I film my TH350C-to-non-lockup conversation video this weekend...it should be out on the channel around this time next week. Thank you for watching, bunkster90!
@mytransmissions5390 absolutely sir we love your content currently, I've always loved the lockup style which is why I have a 700r4 ealy model in My 1969 pontiac tempest restoration, also have several high performance builds we are doing here at Bunker Transmissions along with our personal frame off restorations so it's always busy busy.
Wow, never knew the possibility of a 700r4/4l60e planet and ring gear to be used in the TH350 ! Your content is always AWESOME ! I'm am astonished that you are under 2k in subscribers. You have so much to offer to the "old school" transmission scene for the hot rodder's as well as more modern stuff. Keep up the good work !
Thanks, Edward! Appreciate the kind words as always. Not sure why channel isn't growing as fast as I and others may expect but anything you and others can do to spread the word would be an immense help. The more folks sub and watch, the more content I can deliver. Have a great day!
great video, as always. Very helpful for making sense of my TH350C. If you put a 4L60E low roller clutch assembly in, is it necessary to also upgrade to a 4L60E center support and inner race, or can you drop the 4L60E roller assembly into the TH350 center support and keep the TH350 inner race? Thanks!
Thanks, Matt - appreciate the feedback. You will need to swap the center support and the 4L60E low roller as a service pack, they won't interchange individually...The 4L60E low roller is too tall to fit properly into the TH350 (or very early 700R4) center support. The races are the same, I believe but you'll want to verify....
About normal th350 transmission, I don't know if it was bad. I don't know if it needs rebuilt. I bought it from a friend for 400 bucks. It's been sitting for 2 to 3 years but they said it worked when it was pooled. How can I tell if it'll work before I put it in
Hi Malachi, thanks for watching...I'll be putting out a video on how to buy a used TH350 and share all the things I do from an inspection standpoint soon...But to answer your question now, I'd remove the pan and look for anything concerning (metal shavings, clutch material, etc...) and check the filter to see if a) it's a screen type or cloth type - replace if it's a cloth type with a screen type filter b) clogged - if so, I'd be concerned about damage Spin the converter when installed onto the transmission - make sure it spins freely, smoothly and makes no noise...If it sounds like a bucket of bolts when spun, it's no good. Spin input shaft while holding the output shaft - they should spin independently of each other Push/Pull on the input shaft - you should have some end play...If it's bound (i.e. zero percievable travel in and out) then it's no good and has to be rebuilt (or end play corrected at the very least). Check the modulator (vac test if you have a vacuum test kit) and inspect the modulator valve for freedom of movement...Lube with ATF or WD40 then reinstall. Those are the main things.
@@nickstransmissions Thanks, that's what I think too but can't remember. The two problems I found going through this spare 350C were a broken clunk spring and the end of the input shaft was broken off where it inserts into the output shaft.
Rgr, I've seen both before as well...Use a case saver for anything HD or performance; supplement with a billet input shaft if doing wild and crazy things as that rear pilot does like to break, esp if the case is set up loose.
My question that concerns me, I have a th350c of unknown year, but pressure sensor on the valve body is in a different spot, the direct drive wave disc is missing but I see in this videos that may be a mod, and I have a Torrington bearing on the pump but no spacer, this transmission was given to me in unknown condition and I’m curious what this all means
Hi Jay, do you have the ATSG manual for these transmissions? If not, I'd recommend you grab it as some of the variations/differences and engineering changes are discussed in that manual...You don't need the wavy plate in the direct clutch, most of the time I leave it out and machine the piston for an addl flat steel and friction. The pump torrington bearing was introduced in the mid-70s (76-78 timeframe) - anything prior would have had the tabbed selective washer...You only install one, not both. If you have a pressure sensor on the VB you prob have a TH350C unless someone retroed a TH350C VB onto a non-lock up case...TH350 non-lock ups were in prod from 69-79 and the lock up TH350C was in prod from 1978 (or 77) to 1984 or 85...
@@nickstransmissions my Torrington bearing on the pump doesn’t have the spacer behind it that yours does though but it does have the added seals and that sleeve thing, and also the first planetary you remove mine has the flat tabbed washer instead of Torrington like yours, thinking my transmission is frankensteined a bit? I notice the wave plate is gone but didn’t notice an added friction plate on the direct drive
@jay-kobdavis7724 Think you're referring to the selective shim behind the bearing...The presence of absence of those shims depends on how the unit's front end play was adjusted. Sometimes they arent needed but most of the time one shim is required to get end play within spec. Later 350s had torrington bearings on the front planet...
@@nickstransmissionsthanks for all the input, from what I found this unknown transmission was fine when pulled! Still going to put new clutches seals bearing etc and a shift kit, very helpful video thank you!
Hmmm...I have never heard of that...Using late 4L60E low reverse tubular steels w/the slots cut in them is a popular, cheap mod to reduce drag while keeping the lr clutch pack cooler than otherwise is something I and others frequently do. Thank you for watching!
Nick I will definitely watch this whole video in my shop tomorrow.Your transmission videos are some of the best on RUclips.Thanks for sharing your knowledge I or I should say we all appreciate it..
Thanks, BF4L! Let me know if you have any ?s...btw - did you end up ordering that one bushing for your 4L80?
@@nickstransmissions not yet but I appreciate the link..
Your explanations and visuals to go along are unmatched. Really great content always learning more than I can comprehend !
Thanks a bunch, man!! Glad to have you on the channel and appreciate your viewership!
Currently have a 350c and definitely keeping it as a lockup style. Can't ever.go wrong with the lockup always nice to have
Agree; for an overwhelming majority of applications, the TH350C is perfectly fine...The TCC lock up def helps w/keep trans temps lower and fuel economy (which any little bit is a plus w/ a three speed non-OD transmission). I'll get into some of the justifications for converting when I film my TH350C-to-non-lockup conversation video this weekend...it should be out on the channel around this time next week.
Thank you for watching, bunkster90!
@mytransmissions5390 absolutely sir we love your content currently, I've always loved the lockup style which is why I have a 700r4 ealy model in My 1969 pontiac tempest restoration, also have several high performance builds we are doing here at Bunker Transmissions along with our personal frame off restorations so it's always busy busy.
Thanks again, man!
I appreciate the time put into these videos. So much great content. Thanks!
Thank you for the support, Ben! I greatly appreciate it!!!
Wow, never knew the possibility of a 700r4/4l60e planet and ring gear to be used in the TH350 ! Your content is always AWESOME ! I'm am astonished that you are under 2k in subscribers. You have so much to offer to the "old school" transmission scene for the hot rodder's as well as more modern stuff. Keep up the good work !
Thanks, Edward! Appreciate the kind words as always.
Not sure why channel isn't growing as fast as I and others may expect but anything you and others can do to spread the word would be an immense help. The more folks sub and watch, the more content I can deliver.
Have a great day!
great video, as always. Very helpful for making sense of my TH350C. If you put a 4L60E low roller clutch assembly in, is it necessary to also upgrade to a 4L60E center support and inner race, or can you drop the 4L60E roller assembly into the TH350 center support and keep the TH350 inner race? Thanks!
Thanks, Matt - appreciate the feedback. You will need to swap the center support and the 4L60E low roller as a service pack, they won't interchange individually...The 4L60E low roller is too tall to fit properly into the TH350 (or very early 700R4) center support. The races are the same, I believe but you'll want to verify....
@@nickstransmissions thanks for the clarification, Nick. I'll make that upgrade on the next transmission I do. Great tip.
Sounds good, Matt and you're welcome!
thanks for the detail provided
You're welcome and thank you for watching, Sheepdog.
About normal th350 transmission, I don't know if it was bad. I don't know if it needs rebuilt. I bought it from a friend for 400 bucks. It's been sitting for 2 to 3 years but they said it worked when it was pooled. How can I tell if it'll work before I put it in
Hi Malachi, thanks for watching...I'll be putting out a video on how to buy a used TH350 and share all the things I do from an inspection standpoint soon...But to answer your question now, I'd remove the pan and look for anything concerning (metal shavings, clutch material, etc...) and check the filter to see if
a) it's a screen type or cloth type - replace if it's a cloth type with a screen type filter
b) clogged - if so, I'd be concerned about damage
Spin the converter when installed onto the transmission - make sure it spins freely, smoothly and makes no noise...If it sounds like a bucket of bolts when spun, it's no good.
Spin input shaft while holding the output shaft - they should spin independently of each other
Push/Pull on the input shaft - you should have some end play...If it's bound (i.e. zero percievable travel in and out) then it's no good and has to be rebuilt (or end play corrected at the very least).
Check the modulator (vac test if you have a vacuum test kit) and inspect the modulator valve for freedom of movement...Lube with ATF or WD40 then reinstall.
Those are the main things.
Would all the th350C's be using a torrington setup on the pump stator? It's been many years since going through mine and I can't recall.
Thanks,
I believe they all do; that bearing came out between 1976-1977, prior to the introduction of the TH350C.
@@nickstransmissions Thanks, that's what I think too but can't remember. The two problems I found going through this spare 350C were a broken clunk spring and the end of the input shaft was broken off where it inserts into the output shaft.
Rgr, I've seen both before as well...Use a case saver for anything HD or performance; supplement with a billet input shaft if doing wild and crazy things as that rear pilot does like to break, esp if the case is set up loose.
People don’t understand how much time it takes to make a trans work right at least 17 hours of labor.
Yep, its not something that can be done in an hour or so (unfortunately). Thanks for watching, Keys Auto!
Big fan of your work! I have a TH350C that I would like built for performance. Where are you located?
Thank you, Agustin! Appreciate the kind words....I'm in the western US...Where are you located?
@@nickstransmissions I’m in Texas DFW area.
Ah, you're a bit too far from me, otherwise I would gladly help you.
My question that concerns me, I have a th350c of unknown year, but pressure sensor on the valve body is in a different spot, the direct drive wave disc is missing but I see in this videos that may be a mod, and I have a Torrington bearing on the pump but no spacer, this transmission was given to me in unknown condition and I’m curious what this all means
Hi Jay, do you have the ATSG manual for these transmissions? If not, I'd recommend you grab it as some of the variations/differences and engineering changes are discussed in that manual...You don't need the wavy plate in the direct clutch, most of the time I leave it out and machine the piston for an addl flat steel and friction. The pump torrington bearing was introduced in the mid-70s (76-78 timeframe) - anything prior would have had the tabbed selective washer...You only install one, not both. If you have a pressure sensor on the VB you prob have a TH350C unless someone retroed a TH350C VB onto a non-lock up case...TH350 non-lock ups were in prod from 69-79 and the lock up TH350C was in prod from 1978 (or 77) to 1984 or 85...
@@nickstransmissions my Torrington bearing on the pump doesn’t have the spacer behind it that yours does though but it does have the added seals and that sleeve thing, and also the first planetary you remove mine has the flat tabbed washer instead of Torrington like yours, thinking my transmission is frankensteined a bit? I notice the wave plate is gone but didn’t notice an added friction plate on the direct drive
@jay-kobdavis7724 Think you're referring to the selective shim behind the bearing...The presence of absence of those shims depends on how the unit's front end play was adjusted. Sometimes they arent needed but most of the time one shim is required to get end play within spec. Later 350s had torrington bearings on the front planet...
I lied it does have an added flat steel and friction disc
@@nickstransmissionsthanks for all the input, from what I found this unknown transmission was fine when pulled! Still going to put new clutches seals bearing etc and a shift kit, very helpful video thank you!
I HAVE HEARD OF GUYS PUTTING SWIRL CUTS IN THE STEELES DOES THAT REALY HELP ANYTHING
Hmmm...I have never heard of that...Using late 4L60E low reverse tubular steels w/the slots cut in them is a popular, cheap mod to reduce drag while keeping the lr clutch pack cooler than otherwise is something I and others frequently do.
Thank you for watching!
WAS HOPING YOU KNEW SOMETHING ABOUT THAT. I REALY CAN'T SEE WHAT GOOD IT WOULD DO @@nickstransmissions
WAS HOPING YOU WOULD KNOW SOMETHING ABOUT THIS .I CANT REALY SEE WHAT GOOD THIS COULD DO
@@nickstransmissions
Let’s get it
For sure!