This is the best knitting resource on the internet. I have spent years teaching myself from various online resources and you are the most knowledgeable on the widest variety of subjects, you explain the why behind everything, clear and easy to understand and access and no wasted time!! I have learned so much. Thank you for all you do!!
I was told by Amy Herzogg, who I took a class from, to use my upper bust measurement rather than my full bust for sweaters. All of my sweaters were riding up in back, and she said it was because they were not anchored around my shoulders and arms. So instead of knitting a 36 (full bust), I always knit a 33 (upper bust). I guess that means I have a smaller frame than my bust would suggest. I wear a size 32 bra, as well. I have started doing this, and measuring ease from 33, and I have been very happy with the results. I really recommend Amy for complex fit issues.
Ss usual, Roxy, I was rewarded by consulting your videos first when I needed to understand something. As my 'go-to', you never let me down. Thank you so much for your details, the precision and the range of considerations.
Perfect timing on this video. Learning to knit socks is on my to-do list for 2021, and this video prompted me to measure my feet and leg. Now I know to start with shorty socks; my calves are almost double the circumference of my ankles.
Thank you! I was always baffled about the finished size of the 1898 hat that was knit for an adult male. It knits up to 19” and my hubby I has a 22” head. Great info!
I am a new fan. I am binging your episodes. You saved me on a heel flap with odd number of stitches. I am so glad you go into detail on the why of things. Happy slightly belated anniversary , I think. I watched your story from a couple years ago. Thank you for the awesome work you are doing!
The blue mitts (alas, I lost one on a long road trip) are a free pattern called Adaptation, which you can find on my Ravelry designer page (there's a link in the description).
Thinks for a very interesting video. Lots of good information...as always. Except for hats, I don’t really knit, or crochet. garnets. I don’t make sweaters, socks, of gloves/Mittens. Mittens are the only thing I might consider learning to knit... But, I like to learn about such things...
I understand everything you said, but a couple of sweaters i knitted were never right because the designer had already added ease or expected me to, and neglected to explain that! I have since restricted myself to a limited number of designers!
One way to check/confirm sizing is to look at the "to fit" size (if there is one) and compare that to the finished size (which should be indicated in the schematic). Sometimes, the finished size is not listed, but you can figure it out based on the stitch count around the bust, and divide by the gauge. Some patterns list only the finished size, and leave it to the knitter to decide which of those finished sizes they want based on the amount of ease they like.
Have you got any technique videos about colour changing on a purl row with floats? I’m an English knitter but hold yarn in both hands when knitting colourwork. Knitting in the round is no problem but I’ve recently tackled colour changing on a garment worked flat in pieces and found the purl rows very fiddly. I’ve picked up a lot of useful tips from your podcast and wondered if you could help.
Are you talking about actually changing yarns (as in a new ball/new color), or are you asking about working stranded colorwork on the purl side, and alternating between two colors as you work across the row?
@@RoxanneRichardson working colourwork on the purl side with two colours and alternating across the row when you have to carry floats across more than one stitch. I wondered if their was a special technique for this.
10% negative ease is the same as 90% of the original circumference. So you multiply the original circumference by .9 to find out what 90% is. You often can't hit exactly 90% because you have to end up with a whole number of sts *and* you have to have a multiple of sts that works with your stitch pattern.
I love your videos! But here’s the problem I’m having with ease. Some yarns and some patterns knit up stretchier than others. A sample might stretch 200% of its width and 125% of its length, or 110 % of its width and 105% of its length. These obviously should allow different finished dimensions to fit with the correct amount of negative ease in socks. Is there any guideline to consider the percentage of stretch compared to the body part? It seems like one of the important dimensions in socks is instep/heel. If the sock can’t stretch over that dimension, it can’’t be worn, lol. On the other hand, the foot needs to be tight enough not to shift in the shoe, and the leg/cuff tight enough not to sag on the leg. Is there a guideline or chart that takes into account the percentage of stretch in the pattern stitch(es)?
Yes, I have the same questions about quantifying stretch. How do you use your gauge sample to extrapolate the finished stitch count to use for your knitted item?
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This is the best knitting resource on the internet. I have spent years teaching myself from various online resources and you are the most knowledgeable on the widest variety of subjects, you explain the why behind everything, clear and easy to understand and access and no wasted time!! I have learned so much. Thank you for all you do!!
I completely agree! 😊
I was told by Amy Herzogg, who I took a class from, to use my upper bust measurement rather than my full bust for sweaters. All of my sweaters were riding up in back, and she said it was because they were not anchored around my shoulders and arms. So instead of knitting a 36 (full bust), I always knit a 33 (upper bust). I guess that means I have a smaller frame than my bust would suggest. I wear a size 32 bra, as well. I have started doing this, and measuring ease from 33, and I have been very happy with the results. I really recommend Amy for complex fit issues.
You are one of the best teachers I've ever encountered! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills in such an approachable way.
Ss usual, Roxy, I was rewarded by consulting your videos first when I needed to understand something. As my 'go-to', you never let me down. Thank you so much for your details, the precision and the range of considerations.
Perfect timing on this video. Learning to knit socks is on my to-do list for 2021, and this video prompted me to measure my feet and leg. Now I know to start with shorty socks; my calves are almost double the circumference of my ankles.
I love how this sweater looks on you...just the right amount of ease -- everywhere! Plus the color is great.
Excellent video, with loads of precious information and tips. A real treasure! Thank you so much Roxanne!
Thank you! I was always baffled about the finished size of the 1898 hat that was knit for an adult male. It knits up to 19” and my hubby I has a 22” head. Great info!
To be fair, people back then were actually smaller
I am a new fan. I am binging your episodes. You saved me on a heel flap with odd number of stitches. I am so glad you go into detail on the why of things. Happy slightly belated anniversary , I think. I watched your story from a couple years ago. Thank you for the awesome work you are doing!
I’m so happy I found your channel!! Thanks for all the detailed information.
That sweater fits you perfectly! I know you had to change the sizing, as it only came in one size. Wow.
Comprehensive and easy to understand explanation. 👍👏👏Sharing! 🙏🏻Thank you. PS love those blue fingerless mitts Rox😉
The blue mitts (alas, I lost one on a long road trip) are a free pattern called Adaptation, which you can find on my Ravelry designer page (there's a link in the description).
@@RoxanneRichardson thanks so much. I will def check it out on Ravelry! 👍🏻🤗
Great video, fashion changes a lot through the decades.
Thanks, that's very clear and understandable. It makes things easier.
Thinks for a very interesting video. Lots of good information...as always.
Except for hats, I don’t really knit, or crochet. garnets. I don’t make sweaters, socks, of gloves/Mittens. Mittens are the only thing I might consider learning to knit...
But, I like to learn about such things...
Thanks for the explanations.
Extremely helpful and informative! Thank you!!
Wow...you are a wealth of knowledge...love your tutorials!
Glad you like them!
That was an outstanding video. Thanks!
Love your sweater, the color looks really good on you
Thank you
Very helpful!
I understand everything you said, but a couple of sweaters i knitted were never right because the designer had already added ease or expected me to, and neglected to explain that! I have since restricted myself to a limited number of designers!
One way to check/confirm sizing is to look at the "to fit" size (if there is one) and compare that to the finished size (which should be indicated in the schematic). Sometimes, the finished size is not listed, but you can figure it out based on the stitch count around the bust, and divide by the gauge. Some patterns list only the finished size, and leave it to the knitter to decide which of those finished sizes they want based on the amount of ease they like.
Very Helpful. Also, where did you get the mini mannequin?
I bought it from a seller on etsy. It's a 1/4 scale mannequin. www.etsy.com/shop/DeLiangDressForms
@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks!! They also have plus size ones .....yeahhh
Thank you this is so helpful!! 🐰🐰
Have you got any technique videos about colour changing on a purl row with floats? I’m an English knitter but hold yarn in both hands when knitting colourwork. Knitting in the round is no problem but I’ve recently tackled colour changing on a garment worked flat in pieces and found the purl rows very fiddly. I’ve picked up a lot of useful tips from your podcast and wondered if you could help.
I’d be interested too, I’ve just done a colour work cardigan knitted flat. I’m an English style knitter. The purl row is a faff.
Are you talking about actually changing yarns (as in a new ball/new color), or are you asking about working stranded colorwork on the purl side, and alternating between two colors as you work across the row?
@@RoxanneRichardson working colourwork on the purl side with two colours and alternating across the row when you have to carry floats across more than one stitch. I wondered if their was a special technique for this.
For the hats when calculating negative ease, where did you get .9 and .89?
10% negative ease is the same as 90% of the original circumference. So you multiply the original circumference by .9 to find out what 90% is. You often can't hit exactly 90% because you have to end up with a whole number of sts *and* you have to have a multiple of sts that works with your stitch pattern.
That makes sense! Thank you for your help!
I love your videos! But here’s the problem I’m having with ease. Some yarns and some patterns knit up stretchier than others. A sample might stretch 200% of its width and 125% of its length, or 110 % of its width and 105% of its length. These obviously should allow different finished dimensions to fit with the correct amount of negative ease in socks. Is there any guideline to consider the percentage of stretch compared to the body part? It seems like one of the important dimensions in socks is instep/heel. If the sock can’t stretch over that dimension, it can’’t be worn, lol. On the other hand, the foot needs to be tight enough not to shift in the shoe, and the leg/cuff tight enough not to sag on the leg. Is there a guideline or chart that takes into account the percentage of stretch in the pattern stitch(es)?
Yes, I have the same questions about quantifying stretch. How do you use your gauge sample to extrapolate the finished stitch count to use for your knitted item?
OMG!! Little Tiny Mannequin!! Love it!
Great video! Super essential for one perfect knit ! Lovely that! Best wishes for you! GV=Good Vibes?
This dovetails with what Suzanne Bryan is working on in her ITAG sweater project.