Thanks for the video. I have a PV-1 that died and rather than dispose it, had it rewired as an passive speaker that I power via a dedicated class D subwoofer amp. Works beautifully.
7:49 Holy shit! Now I knew Velodyne makes some really nice stuff, and I expected the driver to be beefy. But that's just on a whole different level. It looks like the motor is bigger than the cone! That's just amazing.
I am currently looking for a pair of subs to "marry" nicely with my Quad 57 electrostatic speakers. The B&W PV1D is one I am concidering. I feel it might have a better transient response than normal box subs? Mainly for music listening but also videos. I'm not looking for thunderous volume levels! Having now seen the very high quality construction of the PV1 it will definitely be on the top of my list. Thank you for the video.
My aunt and her husband have a Accusound OM1050 system and it sounds surprisingly good for a cheap entry level system (just the towers in 2 channel mode). That Accusound OM1050 subwoofer would be a great restoration project. I'd replace the amp with something better, add extra (and thicker) internal foam and replace the driver with a Peerless. It is an MDF box but not that solid. I know when I updated a DSE sub to Dayton amp and very stiff Peerless XLS10 with extra internal foam/damping it sounded a lot better! (very heavy as well)
There are some really well-prices D-Class amplifiers available that can deliver plenty of power without taking up too much space or requiring a huge power supply. Have a look at some of the ICE modules.
Hey there - excellent video. I'm almost at the end of a PV1 breakdown and you make the separation of the two sides look so easy. Can you tell me a bit more about how you separated the sides - I'm stuck (no pun intended)? Do you remember if you can get the power supply and amp out without separating?
11:25 Did you ever try to remove this cosmetic radiator ? My PV1's one of driver is hitting this aluminum. I dont know how to remove and see why is it happening. It looks the aluminum radiator has detatched from driver cone which i want to fix. Please advise. Thank
Any chance i could buy one of these pv1 drivers off of you? I own one of these subs, but it has a single blown driver. It is still fully functional otherwise, just sounds awful. Thanks.
I have a B&W PV1D that I left plugged into the main power during the Winter in an area that is susceptible to power surges. When I returned, I found no sound coming out of the unit. The small LED screen is black. Only the navigation soft buttons are operational as well as the B&W logo button. The small LED light turns blue from red when I turn on my sound system but that's about it. Where would you suggest I look? Fuse? If so, where is it? Out of warranty since I bought this in 2020, hence I'm asking here.
That sounds like something has fried in the logic/processor section. If the fuse had popped, it wouldn't power up at all. I'd say it's time to find a dealer. It also may be worth checking with your insurance to see if you're covered for damages like this.
Where are you based? I’ve got a B&W PV1 that started popping once or twice a day and now it’s ticking. Be great to send it to you and see if you can fix it?
Great Vid. A bass driver in my PV1 just died after 10 years. Do you still have the components of the of the PV1 you took apart and if so did the bass drivers still work? I would be keen to buy them.
The two small compact subs mainly costs ALOT more since they need huge amps and DSD tuning to litteraly force bass and some kind of SPL from a physicly too small box. The first ones are bass reflex in a bigger box and higher sensitivity.. So the cheaper subs don't even need the same build quality and amplification to make basicly the same amount of bass or even more. You forgot to mention that part. Even though the two first where VERY basic but regardless.
The Velodyne has a 6ohm driver and most home subs are 4-6 ohms.. Almost none messure home amps into 2ohms.. The watts they often show is peak into 4ohms instead of continous power like i.e the Velodyne shows.
![Look inside $1000 Velodyne 15-inch subwoofer [Disassembly]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gj08wiekoSA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Look inside $1000 Velodyne 15-inch subwoofer [Disassembly]](/img/tr.png)
![BRASIL vs. PERÚ [4-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tbyOJKXfQnI/mqdefault.jpg)
i've always wanted to see the inside of one of those b&w subs. thanks for sharing.
Do they make good sub m trying to get the asw600
Yes
Same
Thanks for the video. I have a PV-1 that died and rather than dispose it, had it rewired as an passive speaker that I power via a dedicated class D subwoofer amp. Works beautifully.
That's a great idea. I'm doing the same with an old Velodyne in my workshop. 👍
Judging by how small the PV-1 cabinet is, there must be some quite complex DSP going on in the original amps?
7:49
Holy shit! Now I knew Velodyne makes some really nice stuff, and I expected the driver to be beefy. But that's just on a whole different level. It looks like the motor is bigger than the cone! That's just amazing.
Well then, you're going to love the Sunfire
I just pulled apart. 😉👍
oh sick teardown. I loved the PV1 teardown. always thought Hypex amplifiers was powering it.
Interesting video. Could you explain why the PV1 is not serviceable/repairable one you have opened it. Cant the Ice amplifier be replaced?
I am currently looking for a pair of subs to "marry" nicely with my Quad 57 electrostatic speakers. The B&W PV1D is one I am concidering. I feel it might have a better transient response than normal box subs? Mainly for music listening but also videos. I'm not looking for thunderous volume levels! Having now seen the very high quality construction of the PV1 it will definitely be on the top of my list. Thank you for the video.
Nice tear down of the pv1, they are a great looking sub, I love mine. What was wrong with this unit that couldn’t be fixed?
That's what I like to know too, must be the control panel or the power unit.
You should think you could order those parts at B&W.
@@mpazs from other tears downs, I think the panel is a B&O unit.
Apparently it is a common unit, so it must be available as a part
Great vid. Hows about the size difference in driver magnet. Holy shamoly.
My aunt and her husband have a Accusound OM1050 system and it sounds surprisingly good for a cheap entry level system (just the towers in 2 channel mode). That Accusound OM1050 subwoofer would be a great restoration project. I'd replace the amp with something better, add extra (and thicker) internal foam and replace the driver with a Peerless. It is an MDF box but not that solid. I know when I updated a DSE sub to Dayton amp and very stiff Peerless XLS10 with extra internal foam/damping it sounded a lot better! (very heavy as well)
There are some really well-prices D-Class amplifiers available that can deliver plenty of power without taking up too much space or requiring a huge power supply. Have a look at some of the ICE modules.
beautyfull B,W drivers and enclosure
Hey there - excellent video. I'm almost at the end of a PV1 breakdown and you make the separation of the two sides look so easy. Can you tell me a bit more about how you separated the sides - I'm stuck (no pun intended)? Do you remember if you can get the power supply and amp out without separating?
All good - a little bit more perseverance did the job.
Hi. Do you maybe have access to a working power supplier for PV1? The one in mine has been broken and even an authorized service can't fix it :sob:
I'd like to see a Rythmik teardown since there aren't a ton of servo companies
11:25 Did you ever try to remove this cosmetic radiator ? My PV1's one of driver is hitting this aluminum. I dont know how to remove and see why is it happening. It looks the aluminum radiator has detatched from driver cone which i want to fix. Please advise. Thank
Any chance i could buy one of these pv1 drivers off of you? I own one of these subs, but it has a single blown driver. It is still fully functional otherwise, just sounds awful. Thanks.
I have a B&W PV1D that I left plugged into the main power during the Winter in an area that is susceptible to power surges. When I returned, I found no sound coming out of the unit. The small LED screen is black. Only the navigation soft buttons are operational as well as the B&W logo button. The small LED light turns blue from red when I turn on my sound system but that's about it. Where would you suggest I look? Fuse? If so, where is it? Out of warranty since I bought this in 2020, hence I'm asking here.
That sounds like something has fried in the logic/processor section. If the fuse had popped, it wouldn't power up at all.
I'd say it's time to find a dealer. It also may be worth checking with your insurance to see if you're covered for damages like this.
hey what velodyne subwoofer is that? cuz i need a amp for one
I Love This SW, metal housing and powerful driver is very nice. I want to use.
Where are you based? I’ve got a B&W PV1 that started popping once or twice a day and now it’s ticking. Be great to send it to you and see if you can fix it?
Did you ever get the velodyne going?
I have a pair of the 800i amps that need attention.
Hi thanks how much that velodyne amp
Thank you very much, this was very informative!
That’s awesome, thanks.
Great Vid. A bass driver in my PV1 just died after 10 years. Do you still have the components of the of the PV1 you took apart and if so did the bass drivers still work? I would be keen to buy them.
Thanks for the comments!
I still have the drivers, but I'm unsure at this stage as to what I'm going to do with them.
as an amplifier, which chips are worth it, you can
write very interesting thanks in advance!
It's always repairable... Just components soldered on so everything is possible to fix since there are either identical or simular parts to find.
Excellent video
The two small compact subs mainly costs ALOT more since they need huge amps and DSD tuning to litteraly force bass and some kind of SPL from a physicly too small box. The first ones are bass reflex in a bigger box and higher sensitivity.. So the cheaper subs don't even need the same build quality and amplification to make basicly the same amount of bass or even more. You forgot to mention that part.
Even though the two first where VERY basic but regardless.
Do you have this and are you willing to sell it?
nice man
Velodyne will need all the capacitor changed even the pre amp caps if you change them all it should work fine and it's 8ohm driver👍✌️👌💯
The Velodyne has a 6ohm driver and most home subs are 4-6 ohms.. Almost none messure home amps into 2ohms..
The watts they often show is peak into 4ohms instead of continous power like i.e the Velodyne shows.
A car amplifier not mounted on the box will last 2x longer than any plate amplifier bass kills no joke that and cheap capacitors👍✌️👌💯
B&W Pressure Cooker
More info on the cheap systems: simon.oconnorlamb.com/ebayspeakers.html
did you just said B&O amplifier
👍👍😎😎🇩🇰🇩🇰🤟👌✌️🤟👌✌️
Honesty? 120 watts into a speaker is HUGE