Slotted rotors are for venting gasses, race pads arent good for the street because they require them to be a hotter temp range to function properly but they resist fade better than oem, drilled rotors are for better heat dissipation, drag racers dont care about race pads because they only need to slow down once where as time attack racers need race pads due to constant hard braking.
Totally incorrect, slotted and or cross drilling it to release gas build up, remove shutter..... You always get better braking without slots or holes until a certain temperature, simply more surface area.. Facts my man, learn then post videos.
I have a 2017 honda pilot. Will the wilwood ones fit on my suv? I have upgraded my wheels to a smaller diameter for an off road look. I went from 20" rims to a 17" deep dish.
I was thinking about to buy stoptech brakes but at the end my car is more a summer daily car and I don't race the car for now I will just upgrade for the 300 instead better balance between price/perfomance for my situation
Hello, I am would like to upgrade the brakes of my 1994 Defender 90 with a new LS3 engine in it (Originally LHD 300 TDI but converted to LS3). I would like a full disc (calipers etc...) set for all 4 wheels. What do you suggest? Thanks.
I've been building an offroad 4x4 FJ cruiser with likely 1000lbs of added weight and bigger tires as well as a heavy duty suspension. Was ripping through Mojave doing about 70-80mph offroad with my oem brakes with performance metallic pads and got terrible brake fade, damn near had to put my foot through the firewall and it took a while to slow down, hit some woops a bit faster than I wanted to because of this. So I invested in some larger Stoptech 2 piece rotors and ST-60 6 piston calipers with some hawk performance ceramic performance pads. I'm incredibly happy with the results. also running a high temp fluid. I'm planning on installing some ST-41'S in the rear because with only the fronts the vehicle does squat a bit under heavy braking. The ceramic pads aren't noisy at all and make WAYYYYYY less of that sticky dust that my last pads made, I'm not running a super high HP rig so the ceramics with the larger setup seems to be working well for me. It changes the way I drive, before it felt a bit more like a boat and you need to brake a lot sooner now i can come in hotter on turns and brake last minute to a desired speed and cut in perfectly, makes it feel much more responsive as a whole and a lot less like a boat.
sounds like abrasive pads is the way to go, but how often would you need to change them if used for daily driving, i live in a city so idiots on roads are x10 as many
Would like to know what stop tech model and pads you went with for your S2K I own a 2007 S2K and almost bought stop power until I watched video complaints you get what you pay for.
On the wilwood caliper why is the one of the bleeder screw facing down low I thought the bleeder screws should always be on the top?so what’s the bleeding procedure if bleeder screw is down low?
Pad surface area makes a difference...looks like the willwood is a rear caliper, but hard to to tell from these angles...if you think you bought a 6pot caliper, you have been duped...yes, you are spouting misinformation...research is your friend in any large/significant purchase and/or YT video...gl on your projects
not only, as he shows in the beginning there are very abrasive pads that will eat out the disks, but will stop just as well, and the benefit is they are lighter, add carbon ceramic brake disks and you get formula 1
Hate to let you know about this but your Wilwood kit with the appropriate pads at the track will probably out break the stoptech. It's about the size of the pad and the surface area and the clamping Force coming from the caliper and how quickly it can dissipate Heat.(huge brake calipers don't cool down and provide a lot of surface area for brake fluid to boil) I would be really surprised in your S2000 if there was any noticeable difference in between the Wilwood and the stoptech... especially if both of them had the most aggressive pad available. Oh and every stoptech kit I've ever worked on has squealed horribly bad.(and I understand racing pads squeal) Used to work at a used car dealer and for whatever reason a lot of Mercedes would come through with stoptech on them. LOL probably because it's cheaper than OE parts. Also adding a bunch of mass by going too big on the rotor can hurt breaking and cornering.
Assuming both brake pads are using the same caliper and rotor, a multi piston caliper with more piston area will put more pressure and evenly on the pads to stop the car better than a single or dual piston caliper.
It doesn't sound like you have any real familiarity with StopTech kits. A StopTech two piece rotor will have less overall mass than the stock OE rotor while still having more thermal mass. (Thermal mass, the friction plates, would be the part you actually want to heat up and cool down to store and dissipate braking energy.) A two piece StopTech rotor will flow air far more effectively than anything from Wilwood. The greater thermal mass and efficient convective cooling will let the StopTech buyer run a less aggressive pad while not having to worry about fade at the track. None of the pads available from StopTech are known for high abrasion or noise. StopTech prefers to make pads that rely more on adherent friction instead. Something like a Hawk Blue or Hawk HP+ will be noisier. Pad size and pad area are important for how the pads heat up, but rotor surface area will have more effect on cooling. Any kit that goes to a larger rotor diameter will gain a huge advantage in radiation cooling. 14" rotors are a great option on a street car. I can run the local tracks and not worry about fade and then jump on the street and not worry about noise. I run StopTech kits on both my Mustang and Miata (11" rotor for Mazda.) Time Attack guys who don't want any extra weight will go back down to a smaller rotor diameter and then need to run a more aggressive pad, but they're trying to remove every last ounce. For that application. a StopTech CBK (competition brake kit) is going to be way nicer, lighter, and stiffer than anything Wilwood offers.
Forgot to mention depending on pads and setup they all perform best under different heat ranges. Some you have to heat up before they bite hard. All this is assuming your on the track with sticky semi slicks.
Please help me, I found these calipers on car ID, I own a chrysler 300 s 2015 v8 and I wondering if this will actually fit without adaptors, can u just confirm if it will fit or if I need a an adapter and which size
Hey how are you I was looking for a big kit for a Toyota Avalon 2006 limited but have not had any luck to find them any help would be appreciated it thanks
Dang. that caliper is HUGE. But, I just ordered a new 2022 WRX, and the brakes are the same size as previous year STI, or there about. 12.4" I believe. So, might need to change out rim sizes/type to make something like this fit. However, I have yet to find anything after market, or at least not $2-3k. I'm thinking to do a parts cross-check and put carrier, etc. off the Ascent that are 13.1", but doesn't seem worth the work, etc. just for 0.7" more
When I started driving it was looking trough the steering wheel and had to use two feet to push on the brakes . They were horrible. With the stop tech my mechanica says it is feather touch brakes. He is right one light push and it is great . With $7000 in a motor and $20,000 in body & paint . $ 4000 in brakes makes sense. And they work very good .
If you haven’t experienced brake fade then your not really getting any benefits from a BBK. There are tradeoffs: Increased rotating mass and unsprung weight will cause slower acceleration and less traction over bumps or requires heavier springs to compensate. The other thing people never mention is that increasing the piston surface area (4 and 6 piston brakes) will give you a spongy brake pedal if you also don’t increase the size of your master cylinder. It works like a simple lever and if you lengthen one side then your ratio will be affected unless you lengthen the other side. Hope this helps someone.
Lmao. I don't care much about longevity. I need a DD kit for a truck. 08 toy tund 5.7. Heavy braking and towing makes the from rotors star wobbling on me. Stock kit on it now, pretty much have had to replace once a year. Tire balance and alignment. Whole 9 yards, but I believe the rotors warp due to heat. Any thoughts? Thought about doing slotted rotor with a towing/performance pads.
Stoptech actually has a really great info page about the "myth" of warped brakes and a lot of info about breaking in brakes. check it out. www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
DTC or any track pad for that matter, will eat up your rotors if you daily with them. Only run them on the track. The track pads love to run in the hotter temps and when they run on the hot temps on the track, they wont dust or squeel as much.
If I remember correctly, Drilled rotors used to have a purpose(evacuating excess gasses made by using older pad formulations), but that purpose was lost with the advent of better formulations for brake pad materials and glues. Basically, drilled is just there for appearance now and slotted is the only thing that would get you any more performance.
I just want affordable brakes that can stop fast(with the right tires) but for street use *only*, since there are 0 tracks where I live. I just want to be safe. Any tips?
Tires. Factory brakes are more than capable of clamping tight enough to stop your wheels from rolling (queue the ABS), but your tires are what actually make contact with the ground. Don't buy cheap tires if your main concern is being as safe as possible.
Replace the brake fluid, put on braided brake lines. Get good brake pads and rotors, and you'll stop just fine. Unless you're driving mountains or hills constantly, a smooth rotor should be just fine. Richasianman is right too, well maintained, quality tires will also help.
And just so you and your audience are informed Brian at Fastbreak engineer the brackets so the big brake RL calipers would fit on almost any application. Also he was the first company to make a kit fit on the 2018 Honda Accord when all other companies stoptech Rotella roller face Mugen D2 racing said they have not come out with that. he made it in house so how's that for customer service! He is the king of fabrication it only takes three days to get pads rotors or hat from his location. And he will build you a kit for your application whatever your budget might be
get spoon caliper for ur s2k, not that much more than what u spending now, they were design to use stock size rotor and great at wheel clearance, because the number 1 headache on big brake kit is your brakes touching your wheel. and not to mention spoon caliper will get more jaw dropping than american brand brakes
Like the blog but you're misinformed that is willwoods economy kit they also make a super lightweight 6-piston 14in rotor kit. That weighs less than your stoptech and outbreak what you have they also have their aerokit 6-piston which will dwarf what you have on your car as far as caliber size if you're making extreme horsepower or if your car is this track focused car by that I mean autocross only. And those kids can go up to $5,000 so just cuz you got the cheap one doesn't mean your stoptech is better than the Wilwood.
I run on my EG brembo slotted rotors with Akebono performance ultras with just wilwood callipers not 2 piece rotors my pads with this setup have lasted longer than my AEM bbk
Wilwood kits that rely on you tuning them with their cheap "proportioning valves" can do this by locking up only two of the wheels well before the other. Normal brake systems are easily capable of locking up tires unless something is really poorly designed.
The slots on the discs are there to expell the gases built up between the pad and disc during the braking process. This help maintain friction and aids cooling a little. If you supply such things then please learn about them before you sell them to people..
I was considering a big brake kit for my Grand Marquis - stopping a 4,000# luxobarge doesnt sound so difficult until one considers that the driver finds corners far too fun to ignore hitting as quickly as reasonable - when a friend who drives the same year Crown Victoria got an inexpensive set of pads and rotors for all four corners and let me drive the result. Well, the ceramic pads have soft, controllable initial bite, but emergency stops were a "DROP ANCHOR!" matter. Looks like I'll he saving a buttload of money.
"Very affordable" for a mid level kit haha. This must have been before that same kit has since skyrocketed to $3,000-$4,000. Kind of like everything with cars now. We're in expensive times to be modding cars. Would love a stop tech kit but I'm not paying that kind of money! Great video.
The stop tech look like the same size of my 4 pot akebono 370z BBK and I have them tucked (less than 1/2” gap) under some 18” rims 😏. The wilwood look like fancy stock ones with 3 extra pistons.
Why do people keep repeating this? Off-gassing from volatile chemicals on pad friction hasn't been an issue since the 1960's. The slots can act as channels for debris and water. Slots work primarily to create leading edges that have a shaving effect on the pad. This increases bite and wear while dissipating heat a bit better.
Don't use race brake pad for daily drive. Dusty. Squeaks a lot. Also super expensive. And it doesn't really mean to stop your car. It means for better control and consistency through out the race (in super hot condition). It won't have enough friction to stop your car better than your stock pads since most of the time it won't be in it's ideal working temperature.
Randee C The HELL they don't! Call Hawk brake company and inform yourself. Their most aggresive brake pads ATE my EBC rotors in 3 months. He warned me, but I didn't really care. I wanted the best possible brakes I could get for my car...and they were.
In Randee's defense, they still shouldn't "harm" your rotors (assuming rotor temps aren't excessive). All pads will have rotor wear but yes, aggressive pads such as those with high metal content will eat your rotor much faster.
DO NOT INSTALL RACING PADS UNLESS YOU ARE RACING! They do not work correctly unless hot so you will not be able to stop adequately in normal day to day use. More aggressive street pads can be a big improvement but outright racing ones are a hazard. Also... If you never autocross or race, slotted or drilled disks are a waste of money and a ticket to more frequent brake replacement jobs. One exception is if you love where there are a lot of steep hills and gassing could be a problem.
this is just a re-upload of someone else's content. you can even see UPIs watermark in the bottom right corner. the original video which was uploaded 2 years before this one is named "Toyota Tacoma UPI rear drum to disc conversion kit installation guide"
Hi level description is fine. But as others have mentioned, this is light on specific detail. BBK systems offer little benefit over stock brakes. Even for track days, the lack of an upgraded master cylinder, and end to end brake lines which are both too small and inefficient for being able to really improve brake performance. Slotted or cross drilled also have limited advantages. Cross drilled rotors are banned from most racing series as they are susceptible to structural damage when they get supper heated. F1 brakes are neither slotted nor cross drilled, and they generate about 5G of braking force. Save your money and purchase performance pads, and high temp. brake fluid, as you'll get just as much out of your stock brakes. And remember there's a reason Brembo is found on F1 cars and not StopTech or Wilwood.
Or buy a BBK and don't worry about switching between overly aggressive pads and normal pads. Then enjoy confident braking response and a lack of knock-back from better caliper stiffness and a floating rotor. Why would a modern car need an upgraded master cylinder to be track-ready? If you maintain stock braking torque for a given pressure input, increase rotor size, and increase caliper stiffness, the required caliper piston area will be smaller and the stock master cylinder diameter will still be sufficient. Normally, master cylinder upgrades are for cars switching to radically different brake setups or overall demands. F1 uses carbon brakes and is a terrible example for talking about rotor slots. Look to something like IMSA where the cars are mandated to use iron rotors. All of them, including cars with Brembo setups, use slots.
He’s got black gloves on, he must know what he’s talking about lol Cross drilled rotors are for looks only. Bigger is not always best. It’s all about heat, yeah the bigger the surface area the better for heat but A smaller setup that’s in proportion to the rear with proper fluid and ducts will stop your car fine on the track.
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Slotted rotors are for venting gasses, race pads arent good for the street because they require them to be a hotter temp range to function properly but they resist fade better than oem, drilled rotors are for better heat dissipation, drag racers dont care about race pads because they only need to slow down once where as time attack racers need race pads due to constant hard braking.
So just break harder lmao.. problem solved
Totally incorrect, slotted and or cross drilling it to release gas build up, remove shutter..... You always get better braking without slots or holes until a certain temperature, simply more surface area.. Facts my man, learn then post videos.
SovL:Remedy h
Very True! Big Airbus aeroplanes have no frill rotors and they stop just fine.
I never had a problem with stop tech but I would recommend installing stainless steel brake lines makes a big difference
For a guy who deals with different brake kits a lot... You sound like you’re not sure what you’re talking about.
I really like EBC brakes, and rotors they are very well made, thanks bro.
U need more understanding on brake pads materials and differences ,your knowledge is more on brands
Is that Epoxy rust prevention similar to GeoMet rust prevention coating ???
Thanks for sharing.
The slots are for cleaning the pad and gas dissipation as the padds will heat up as the rotor rotates .
Do you think the Evolution X Brembo would fit on a Lancer ES as a cheap upgrade. I would want to buy them used
I have a 2017 honda pilot. Will the wilwood ones fit on my suv? I have upgraded my wheels to a smaller diameter for an off road look. I went from 20" rims to a 17" deep dish.
What brake setup are you recommending for 2021 Tahoe LT?
The original setup really is not similar to Toyota or the other brands.
What brake kit should you buy running a 500hp street car?
Do you know if those would work for 2019 Dodge Durango GT?
With the 1k kit would you need afrermarket wheels?
??? Dude this is false info. I road race and my 4piston Wilwood are more than enough for a civic. Also you can't compare S2000 vs Civic calipers.
You did not understand why there are slots dont ya?
I was thinking about to buy stoptech brakes but at the end my car is more a summer daily car and I don't race the car for now
I will just upgrade for the 300 instead better balance between price/perfomance for my situation
I have a 2010 Subaru Impreza. It’s not a WRX
16 inch rims. I want a slightly bigger break upgrade, what do you recommend?
Hello,
I am would like to upgrade the brakes of my 1994 Defender 90 with a new LS3 engine in it (Originally LHD 300 TDI but converted to LS3).
I would like a full disc (calipers etc...) set for all 4 wheels.
What do you suggest?
Thanks.
i did stop tech big brakes on my tacoma build for the front . i am doing the rear disk conversion. what master cylinder goes with this?
I've been building an offroad 4x4 FJ cruiser with likely 1000lbs of added weight and bigger tires as well as a heavy duty suspension. Was ripping through Mojave doing about 70-80mph offroad with my oem brakes with performance metallic pads and got terrible brake fade, damn near had to put my foot through the firewall and it took a while to slow down, hit some woops a bit faster than I wanted to because of this. So I invested in some larger Stoptech 2 piece rotors and ST-60 6 piston calipers with some hawk performance ceramic performance pads. I'm incredibly happy with the results. also running a high temp fluid. I'm planning on installing some ST-41'S in the rear because with only the fronts the vehicle does squat a bit under heavy braking. The ceramic pads aren't noisy at all and make WAYYYYYY less of that sticky dust that my last pads made, I'm not running a super high HP rig so the ceramics with the larger setup seems to be working well for me. It changes the way I drive, before it felt a bit more like a boat and you need to brake a lot sooner now i can come in hotter on turns and brake last minute to a desired speed and cut in perfectly, makes it feel much more responsive as a whole and a lot less like a boat.
Any suggestions for the 2018 Z71 ?
sounds like abrasive pads is the way to go, but how often would you need to change them if used for daily driving, i live in a city so idiots on roads are x10 as many
Would like to know what stop tech model and pads you went with for your S2K I own a 2007 S2K and almost bought stop power until I watched video complaints you get what you pay for.
On the wilwood caliper why is the one of the bleeder screw facing down low I thought the bleeder screws should always be on the top?so what’s the bleeding procedure if bleeder screw is down low?
Hi 1990 Chevy 3500. Is there any late model better calipers that interchange
Pad surface area makes a difference...looks like the willwood is a rear caliper, but hard to to tell from these angles...if you think you bought a 6pot caliper, you have been duped...yes, you are spouting misinformation...research is your friend in any large/significant purchase and/or YT video...gl on your projects
not only, as he shows in the beginning there are very abrasive pads that will eat out the disks, but will stop just as well, and the benefit is they are lighter, add carbon ceramic brake disks and you get formula 1
Hate to let you know about this but your Wilwood kit with the appropriate pads at the track will probably out break the stoptech. It's about the size of the pad and the surface area and the clamping Force coming from the caliper and how quickly it can dissipate Heat.(huge brake calipers don't cool down and provide a lot of surface area for brake fluid to boil) I would be really surprised in your S2000 if there was any noticeable difference in between the Wilwood and the stoptech... especially if both of them had the most aggressive pad available. Oh and every stoptech kit I've ever worked on has squealed horribly bad.(and I understand racing pads squeal) Used to work at a used car dealer and for whatever reason a lot of Mercedes would come through with stoptech on them. LOL probably because it's cheaper than OE parts. Also adding a bunch of mass by going too big on the rotor can hurt breaking and cornering.
Assuming both brake pads are using the same caliper and rotor, a multi piston caliper with more piston area will put more pressure and evenly on the pads to stop the car better than a single or dual piston caliper.
It doesn't sound like you have any real familiarity with StopTech kits. A StopTech two piece rotor will have less overall mass than the stock OE rotor while still having more thermal mass. (Thermal mass, the friction plates, would be the part you actually want to heat up and cool down to store and dissipate braking energy.)
A two piece StopTech rotor will flow air far more effectively than anything from Wilwood. The greater thermal mass and efficient convective cooling will let the StopTech buyer run a less aggressive pad while not having to worry about fade at the track.
None of the pads available from StopTech are known for high abrasion or noise. StopTech prefers to make pads that rely more on adherent friction instead. Something like a Hawk Blue or Hawk HP+ will be noisier.
Pad size and pad area are important for how the pads heat up, but rotor surface area will have more effect on cooling. Any kit that goes to a larger rotor diameter will gain a huge advantage in radiation cooling.
14" rotors are a great option on a street car. I can run the local tracks and not worry about fade and then jump on the street and not worry about noise. I run StopTech kits on both my Mustang and Miata (11" rotor for Mazda.)
Time Attack guys who don't want any extra weight will go back down to a smaller rotor diameter and then need to run a more aggressive pad, but they're trying to remove every last ounce. For that application. a StopTech CBK (competition brake kit) is going to be way nicer, lighter, and stiffer than anything Wilwood offers.
I’m using stoptech 328 on my k04 mk6 gti. No squealing yet
I got 22” wheels on a 96 Impala. The stock brakes suck. Is bigger better in my case?
Forgot to mention depending on pads and setup they all perform best under different heat ranges.
Some you have to heat up before they bite hard. All this is assuming your on the track with sticky semi slicks.
Please help me, I found these calipers on car ID, I own a chrysler 300 s 2015 v8 and I wondering if this will actually fit without adaptors, can u just confirm if it will fit or if I need a an adapter and which size
All great points, good vid man
wats the best for g37s coupe?
What brake kit would you buy for a 2016 honda accord touring for street use?
6 piston brembo
Can you plz a link for the stop tech kit
What Wilwood kit is this exactly for only $1k?
My 6 gen Camaro has Brembo, are they good? It's a 2017 50th anniversary
No that car is junk
Great video ... I wanted to ask, if I change / upgrade my brakes, does it void warranty & how does it affect insurance ?
thanks in advance
Hey how are you I was looking for a big kit for a Toyota Avalon 2006 limited but have not had any luck to find them any help would be appreciated it thanks
how can i get sponsors to start a project car ?
Where can I get one for my RT challenger? 2021
Dang. that caliper is HUGE. But, I just ordered a new 2022 WRX, and the brakes are the same size as previous year STI, or there about. 12.4" I believe. So, might need to change out rim sizes/type to make something like this fit. However, I have yet to find anything after market, or at least not $2-3k. I'm thinking to do a parts cross-check and put carrier, etc. off the Ascent that are 13.1", but doesn't seem worth the work, etc. just for 0.7" more
Cool vid! What's the minimum wheel size for the Stoptech? Do they make them for full-size 4x4 Chevy Suburbans with lifts?
You doing a lot of racing at 100mph in that 4x4 Suburban?
@@alexmelia8873 Lol. No, but making a 6000 lbs vehicle stop faster is always a good thing. ;)
That stoptech caliper is Not a 6 it's a 4 piston..
5.7L Hemi R/T he said it was a 4 pot so he did cover it
Jefferson Graves no he said 6 pot
I see you caught that too... I about spit out my drink when I heard him say, _"6 pot kit"_ as he laid his hand down on a Stoptech ST40 caliper.
Yeah it looked like it only had 2 bumps on the front. I have CTS-V2 6 piston calipers and those things are gigantic
This is real good man. What would you recommend for a 2017 lancer 5 speed. My brakes suck.
better tires and flush/bleed your brake fluids probably.
Does't the lancer (depending on your model) come with brembos from OE?
Unless you have the base model.
@@aoikazuya7716I don't think so, the Evo was axed in 15 or 16. The lancer es is the highest model now......no brembos !!!! :(
I just wonder if beening able to break sooner would increase your chances of hydroplaning in wet conditions.
Your tires should come into play.
You forgot to talk about the Spoon Calipers, any reviews about those calipers ?
If you want to reduce breaking distances and generally have a quicker stopping car for the street to make car safer what is the best type of upgrade?
pads
pads,fluid, discs, steel braded brake lines and most important tires
Thanks for your help guys
Maybe don't drive fast?
Wheels and tires, wider tires with a better compound
Very good video! Do u know what kit I can use to up grade my Honda Odyssey 2011? OEM brakes does not stop the car.
Where to get this brake kit
When I started driving it was looking trough the steering wheel and had to use two feet to push on the brakes . They were horrible. With the stop tech my mechanica says it is feather touch brakes. He is right one light push and it is great . With $7000 in a motor and $20,000 in body & paint . $ 4000 in brakes makes sense. And they work very good .
I got a 2017 tundra and wana do a big break kit for towin. What do you suggest?
Me 2!
Do you sell rotors for nissan?
If you haven’t experienced brake fade then your not really getting any benefits from a BBK. There are tradeoffs: Increased rotating mass and unsprung weight will cause slower acceleration and less traction over bumps or requires heavier springs to compensate. The other thing people never mention is that increasing the piston surface area (4 and 6 piston brakes) will give you a spongy brake pedal if you also don’t increase the size of your master cylinder. It works like a simple lever and if you lengthen one side then your ratio will be affected unless you lengthen the other side. Hope this helps someone.
Where can buy these products from you
Lmao. I don't care much about longevity. I need a DD kit for a truck. 08 toy tund 5.7. Heavy braking and towing makes the from rotors star wobbling on me. Stock kit on it now, pretty much have had to replace once a year. Tire balance and alignment. Whole 9 yards, but I believe the rotors warp due to heat.
Any thoughts? Thought about doing slotted rotor with a towing/performance pads.
Stoptech actually has a really great info page about the "myth" of warped brakes and a lot of info about breaking in brakes. check it out. www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
DTC or any track pad for that matter, will eat up your rotors if you daily with them. Only run them on the track. The track pads love to run in the hotter temps and when they run on the hot temps on the track, they wont dust or squeel as much.
If I remember correctly, Drilled rotors used to have a purpose(evacuating excess gasses made by using older pad formulations), but that purpose was lost with the advent of better formulations for brake pad materials and glues. Basically, drilled is just there for appearance now and slotted is the only thing that would get you any more performance.
I just want affordable brakes that can stop fast(with the right tires) but for street use *only*, since there are 0 tracks where I live. I just want to be safe. Any tips?
Tires. Factory brakes are more than capable of clamping tight enough to stop your wheels from rolling (queue the ABS), but your tires are what actually make contact with the ground. Don't buy cheap tires if your main concern is being as safe as possible.
Replace the brake fluid, put on braided brake lines. Get good brake pads and rotors, and you'll stop just fine. Unless you're driving mountains or hills constantly, a smooth rotor should be just fine. Richasianman is right too, well maintained, quality tires will also help.
And just so you and your audience are informed Brian at Fastbreak engineer the brackets so the big brake RL calipers would fit on almost any application. Also he was the first company to make a kit fit on the 2018 Honda Accord when all other companies stoptech Rotella roller face Mugen D2 racing said they have not come out with that. he made it in house so how's that for customer service! He is the king of fabrication it only takes three days to get pads rotors or hat from his location. And he will build you a kit for your application whatever your budget might be
The drilled & slowed rotors is to allow the bake pads to off gas while braking
get spoon caliper for ur s2k, not that much more than what u spending now, they were design to use stock size rotor and great at wheel clearance, because the number 1 headache on big brake kit is your brakes touching your wheel. and not to mention spoon caliper will get more jaw dropping than american brand brakes
I think you have to get the tech book in order to explain more the idea.
Like the blog but you're misinformed that is willwoods economy kit they also make a super lightweight 6-piston 14in rotor kit. That weighs less than your stoptech and outbreak what you have they also have their aerokit 6-piston which will dwarf what you have on your car as far as caliber size if you're making extreme horsepower or if your car is this track focused car by that I mean autocross only. And those kids can go up to $5,000 so just cuz you got the cheap one doesn't mean your stoptech is better than the Wilwood.
Alex Ross wilwood is junk
I run on my EG brembo slotted rotors with Akebono performance ultras with just wilwood callipers not 2 piece rotors my pads with this setup have lasted longer than my AEM bbk
Smooth Rotors are the best.
Is it possible to put big enough brakes to shred the tires as soon as you stop? You hit the brakes and it would just grind down through the wheels!
YES. The wheels will lock up immediately and the ABS will relieve some pressure to stop the wheel lock up and the tires screching
Wilwood kits that rely on you tuning them with their cheap "proportioning valves" can do this by locking up only two of the wheels well before the other. Normal brake systems are easily capable of locking up tires unless something is really poorly designed.
The slots on the discs are there to expell the gases built up between the pad and disc during the braking process. This help maintain friction and aids cooling a little. If you supply such things then please learn about them before you sell them to people..
Wil wood is made in usa too.
I was considering a big brake kit for my Grand Marquis - stopping a 4,000# luxobarge doesnt sound so difficult until one considers that the driver finds corners far too fun to ignore hitting as quickly as reasonable - when a friend who drives the same year Crown Victoria got an inexpensive set of pads and rotors for all four corners and let me drive the result. Well, the ceramic pads have soft, controllable initial bite, but emergency stops were a "DROP ANCHOR!" matter.
Looks like I'll he saving a buttload of money.
Nice
Willwood also has a 6 piston racing line
"Very affordable" for a mid level kit haha. This must have been before that same kit has since skyrocketed to $3,000-$4,000. Kind of like everything with cars now. We're in expensive times to be modding cars. Would love a stop tech kit but I'm not paying that kind of money! Great video.
Especially when there are thousands of big brakes sitting in junkyards across America.
Just go with a,Spoon Sports set up, import/import. Upgrade that digital caliper, jk-ha.
Been no is manufactured I in homer Michigan fun company to work for
Awe God take forever!
The stop tech look like the same size of my 4 pot akebono 370z BBK and I have them tucked (less than 1/2” gap) under some 18” rims 😏. The wilwood look like fancy stock ones with 3 extra pistons.
The slots prevent pad float by allowing the gasses made from the friction material to be vented.
Why do people keep repeating this? Off-gassing from volatile chemicals on pad friction hasn't been an issue since the 1960's.
The slots can act as channels for debris and water.
Slots work primarily to create leading edges that have a shaving effect on the pad. This increases bite and wear while dissipating heat a bit better.
Subbed!
Don't use race brake pad for daily drive. Dusty. Squeaks a lot. Also super expensive. And it doesn't really mean to stop your car. It means for better control and consistency through out the race (in super hot condition). It won't have enough friction to stop your car better than your stock pads since most of the time it won't be in it's ideal working temperature.
My Hawk max street pads killed my slotted rotors in 300 miles.
Slots cut into the brake pad!?!? Yikes!!
And Hawk HPS pads shouldn't really be creating any dust, or no more than OEM-type pads.
Weight reduction or actually being able to confidently use your brakes, lol, tough decision
Like everyone else commented, that is a fucking ST 40... StopTech’s 4 pistons BBK
Hahahahahaha and lol to everything you just said mate
Great Scott Marty! It's 1.21 gigawatts. Wtf r u talking about
Love your video's, projects, and products! Keep up the good work! But aggressive pads do NOT harm your rotors at all.
Randee C The HELL they don't! Call Hawk brake company and inform yourself. Their most aggresive brake pads ATE my EBC rotors in 3 months. He warned me, but I didn't really care. I wanted the best possible brakes I could get for my car...and they were.
In Randee's defense, they still shouldn't "harm" your rotors (assuming rotor temps aren't excessive). All pads will have rotor wear but yes, aggressive pads such as those with high metal content will eat your rotor much faster.
DO NOT INSTALL RACING PADS UNLESS YOU ARE RACING!
They do not work correctly unless hot so you will not be able to stop adequately in normal day to day use.
More aggressive street pads can be a big improvement but outright racing ones are a hazard.
Also... If you never autocross or race, slotted or drilled disks are a waste of money and a ticket to more frequent brake replacement jobs. One exception is if you love where there are a lot of steep hills and gassing could be a problem.
If you’re going to spend money on a vehicle the first two things you should buy are tires and brakes
this is just a re-upload of someone else's content. you can even see UPIs watermark in the bottom right corner.
the original video which was uploaded 2 years before this one is named "Toyota Tacoma UPI rear drum to disc conversion kit installation guide"
How can I contact to order from you
Hi level description is fine. But as others have mentioned, this is light on specific detail. BBK systems offer little benefit over stock brakes. Even for track days, the lack of an upgraded master cylinder, and end to end brake lines which are both too small and inefficient for being able to really improve brake performance. Slotted or cross drilled also have limited advantages. Cross drilled rotors are banned from most racing series as they are susceptible to structural damage when they get supper heated. F1 brakes are neither slotted nor cross drilled, and they generate about 5G of braking force. Save your money and purchase performance pads, and high temp. brake fluid, as you'll get just as much out of your stock brakes. And remember there's a reason Brembo is found on F1 cars and not StopTech or Wilwood.
Velocity Boy I have a Nissan Armada looking to put some big wheels on it(26 inches) So you're saying just upgrade the pads & fluid will be enough?
Or buy a BBK and don't worry about switching between overly aggressive pads and normal pads. Then enjoy confident braking response and a lack of knock-back from better caliper stiffness and a floating rotor.
Why would a modern car need an upgraded master cylinder to be track-ready? If you maintain stock braking torque for a given pressure input, increase rotor size, and increase caliper stiffness, the required caliper piston area will be smaller and the stock master cylinder diameter will still be sufficient. Normally, master cylinder upgrades are for cars switching to radically different brake setups or overall demands.
F1 uses carbon brakes and is a terrible example for talking about rotor slots. Look to something like IMSA where the cars are mandated to use iron rotors. All of them, including cars with Brembo setups, use slots.
He’s got black gloves on, he must know what he’s talking about lol
Cross drilled rotors are for looks only.
Bigger is not always best. It’s all about heat, yeah the bigger the surface area the better for heat but A smaller setup that’s in proportion to the rear with proper fluid and ducts will stop your car fine on the track.
Your going to need better brakes with all that weight your adding ... lol
2000 grand for one set or for all four ?
set of two, fronts or rears.
Where did you learn all this incorrect information?
Im trying to stop a 4k lb Town Car. By your standards, Im going to need freight train brakes.
Sweet video bro. Interesting.
What's your opinion on Ceika's big brake kit? Do you recommend any other brands?