Just bought a fully refurbished 1979 model with red leather it’s a beautiful camera to shoot like new I used one back in the 80s when I was photographer at Butlins hotel it was our standard camera to use I fallen in love with it
My mom just gave me this vintage camera of my grandfather. Cannot wait to restore and play with this thing! I hope it's still working after years (or even decades) sitting in the cupboard
The selenium photocell works by the photoelectric effect. Electrons are liberated from selenium when light falls upon it. In a photocell, these electrons are collected in a transparent electrically conductive overlayer, usually made from cadmium oxide (CdO) with a metallic contact around the edge. On top of this, there is a layer of lacquer to protect the cell from the air. It is likely that the cells fail when long exposure to light damages the lacquer, allowing oxygen and water vapour to enter the cell and corrode the metal contacts. The electric current generated by the cell is passed through a galvanometer (which completes the circuit.) An system of mechanical linkages then sets the shutter speed and aperture depending on the angular deflection of the galvanometer. A great advantage of selenium cells is that their spectral response is similar to the human eye. Also, no battery is needed to operate the exposure meter, since it generates its own electricity, similar to a semiconductor photoelectric cell. Many other models of old cameras need 1.35-volt mercury cells to operate, which are no longer made. There are ways to get around this, but are clearly less satisfactory, and less convenient than using the originally specified cells.
The sensors do not deteriorate so much if the lens cap is left in place when the camera is not in use. To check if the camera sensor is working, set on 'A' (automatic), wind on (without film in), point at the light and press the shutter release button. The shutter should function. Then wind on again, cover the lens and press the shutter release button and this time it should not function and a red flag should appear in the viewfinder indicating that there is not enough light to take a picture and preventing the camera from doing so. These are great cameras. I have somehow managed to accumulate four of them which I bought cheap from charity shops many years ago. I bought them for travel (cycle touring) so it wouldn't be a great loss if they got lost or damaged. All are still functioning and despite the fact that I have digital cameras now (Olympus OMD and a Pen) I am now about to run a film through one of the trips....just for the pleasure of using it.
Thanks for the tip. I totally forgot to mention the red flag. I'll add it to the video description. These cameras last a long time due to their simplicity and excellent build quality. Unfortunately, because many original Trip owners were casual photographers at best, a lot of them tend to have been treated roughly and then left to gather dust in a drawer or box somewhere. If you're lucky they might have escaped long term exposure to light and then the selenium cells will be alright, but often that isn't the case. Regardless, it's just a minor issue in the context of what is a remarkably good camera. The fact that Olympus sold so many and didn't change the design over the course of 17 years goes to show just how right they got it. Enjoy shooting your Trip again!
I bought a Trip 35 two years ago because of your video and I love it! I wish these cameras were still produced and I wish everyone could enjoy the simplicity of taking photos like this. Thank you for the information and inspiration! Would love to see if you are still shooting with the Trip 35.
A marvelous invention in film photography for anyone and everyone. And dead easy camera to use??? Oh I don't know it's been a nightmare for some I know of people who have had no joy from it whatever. They just gave up The thing is to persevere and use the thing as much as possible you definitely will be a better photographer with practice I said. Well I have found I have gradually improved and the best camera for compact ability and build. Minox Rollei B 35 I don't know about?
Great cameras! It’s probably getting hard to find one with an accurate meter. I ended up modifying mine, so that I can get it to shoot manually at 1/200th. Otherwise, you can shoot them manually with the slower 1/40th, and maybe add a ND filter to shoot in daylight.
Tom Edwards it can be a bit tricky the first time you do it. But, is relatively easy after you figure it out. The best thing is, that it’s not a permanent modification. You can easily change it back if you don’t like the results. The easiest thing to do, would probably be to have a modded Trip 35, in addition to a normal one. The modded one will shoot at 200th, and the regular one can be shot at 40th.
Thanks Tom, great video! I just bought a restored one of these for my girlfriends 21st. Planning on getting it engraved and buying some film as well. What film would you suggest?
Is good got one... Is good now everyone would recommend getting a lens cap to look after the selenium cell light meter... One American I saw bought 400asa colour film but shot at 200 asa... maybe it gives a kind of Polaroid look to prints... dont forget you can shoot slide film and black and white... Happy shooting...guys and gals.
Nice and informative video 👍 Gonna pick one up myself on Saturday, really looking forward to it! I hope the cells haven't died off too much though 'cause it's pretty old (120 000 something serial number)
@@tomedwards81 The one I looked at didn't function properly. But I got another one that works like a charm. Put on new blue leathers and replaced the light seals, so it feels like new!
So please can you help me answer my question hehehe where should I put my ISO though? I am new to film photography and this is the first camera I’ve bought
The ISO is determined by the film you use. This is called ASA and is the same as ISO. So for example, Portra 400 is a 400 ASA (or ISO) film. You can set the ASA/ISO by using the dial on the side of the lens, which helps the camera automatically expose photos for you. The Trip caters for film speeds from 50-400. You can use others, but as you’re a beginner I would suggest using a 200 or 400 ASA film for now.
@@tomedwards81 The exposure meter in a 35RC needs obsolete 1.35-volt mercury cells, which are no longer made. For more information, please read my main comment posted today (07/10/2019).
Today I went to a garage sale and got this for $7 and it works to however the case was all melted and sticky the original price was $10 but moved it to $7 since the case was destroyed by the sun Lol
The camera has a flash sync mode where you can manually select the aperture. I would choose f2.8 in most situations. Just be aware that the camera automatically uses a 1/40th shutter speed when you have a flash connected and you can’t change this. That’s really quite slow and you will get motion blur if your subject is moving quickly.
Personally I wouldn't bother using a flash with this camera due to the limitation of 1/40th shutter speed. But that's just me. I'm a natural light kind of photographer. Your vibe might be different.
Just bought a fully refurbished 1979 model with red leather it’s a beautiful camera to shoot like new I used one back in the 80s when I was photographer at Butlins hotel it was our standard camera to use I fallen in love with it
My mom just gave me this vintage camera of my grandfather. Cannot wait to restore and play with this thing! I hope it's still working after years (or even decades) sitting in the cupboard
Put a cheap roll of film through it first and jut shoot anything to see if it’s working before you start capturing precious art/memories.
The selenium photocell works by the photoelectric effect. Electrons are liberated from selenium when light falls upon it. In a photocell, these electrons are collected in a transparent electrically conductive overlayer, usually made from cadmium oxide (CdO) with a metallic contact around the edge. On top of this, there is a layer of lacquer to protect the cell from the air. It is likely that the cells fail when long exposure to light damages the lacquer, allowing oxygen and water vapour to enter the cell and corrode the metal contacts.
The electric current generated by the cell is passed through a galvanometer (which completes the circuit.) An system of mechanical linkages then sets the shutter speed and aperture depending on the angular deflection of the galvanometer.
A great advantage of selenium cells is that their spectral response is similar to the human eye. Also, no battery is needed to operate the exposure meter, since it generates its own electricity, similar to a semiconductor photoelectric cell. Many other models of old cameras need 1.35-volt mercury cells to operate, which are no longer made. There are ways to get around this, but are clearly less satisfactory, and less convenient than using the originally specified cells.
Thanks for the detailed comment. Made for some interesting reading. I’ve learnt something I didn’t know before!
@@tomedwards81 Further reading: doi.org/10.7567/jjaps.21s2.73 and doi.org/10.1049/jbire.1953.0022
The sensors do not deteriorate so much if the lens cap is left in place when the camera is not in use. To check if the camera sensor is working, set on 'A' (automatic), wind on (without film in), point at the light and press the shutter release button. The shutter should function. Then wind on again, cover the lens and press the shutter release button and this time it should not function and a red flag should appear in the viewfinder indicating that there is not enough light to take a picture and preventing the camera from doing so. These are great cameras. I have somehow managed to accumulate four of them which I bought cheap from charity shops many years ago. I bought them for travel (cycle touring) so it wouldn't be a great loss if they got lost or damaged. All are still functioning and despite the fact that I have digital cameras now (Olympus OMD and a Pen) I am now about to run a film through one of the trips....just for the pleasure of using it.
Thanks for the tip. I totally forgot to mention the red flag. I'll add it to the video description. These cameras last a long time due to their simplicity and excellent build quality. Unfortunately, because many original Trip owners were casual photographers at best, a lot of them tend to have been treated roughly and then left to gather dust in a drawer or box somewhere. If you're lucky they might have escaped long term exposure to light and then the selenium cells will be alright, but often that isn't the case. Regardless, it's just a minor issue in the context of what is a remarkably good camera. The fact that Olympus sold so many and didn't change the design over the course of 17 years goes to show just how right they got it. Enjoy shooting your Trip again!
So if the shutter is working when you cover the lens and there is nothing shown in the viewfinder. It's not for use anymore?
I bought a Trip 35 two years ago because of your video and I love it! I wish these cameras were still produced and I wish everyone could enjoy the simplicity of taking photos like this. Thank you for the information and inspiration! Would love to see if you are still shooting with the Trip 35.
A marvelous invention in film photography for anyone and everyone.
And dead easy camera to use???
Oh I don't know it's been a nightmare for some
I know of people who have had no joy from it whatever.
They just gave up
The thing is to persevere and use the thing as much as possible you definitely will be a better photographer with practice I said.
Well I have found I have gradually improved and the best camera for compact ability and build.
Minox Rollei B 35 I don't know about?
such a great overview, Tom.
I still need to give one of these a go. The zone focus is what throws me.
Yeah the zone focus can be tricky to master. If you’re unsure then look at an Olympus 35RC. Same camera but with a rangefinder.
What film is best to use for these? Happy to pay a bit more for good stuff
Good job Tom enjoyed this video very much keep going
Thanks
Phenomenal review!
Thanks
Great cameras! It’s probably getting hard to find one with an accurate meter. I ended up modifying mine, so that I can get it to shoot manually at 1/200th. Otherwise, you can shoot them manually with the slower 1/40th, and maybe add a ND filter to shoot in daylight.
I've heard about that modification - great idea. Is it hard to do?
Tom Edwards it can be a bit tricky the first time you do it. But, is relatively easy after you figure it out. The best thing is, that it’s not a permanent modification. You can easily change it back if you don’t like the results.
The easiest thing to do, would probably be to have a modded Trip 35, in addition to a normal one. The modded one will shoot at 200th, and the regular one can be shot at 40th.
@@JP1050x thanks, good to know. But I probably don't need any more cameras!
Thanks for your tremendous review. Could you tell me who did your CLA? Thanks again.
Cheers. Ben Vang in Dubbo.
Thanks Tom, great video! I just bought a restored one of these for my girlfriends 21st. Planning on getting it engraved and buying some film as well. What film would you suggest?
That's a great gift! Kodak Portra 400 is a lovely (not so cheap) film.
Is good got one... Is good now everyone would recommend getting a lens cap to look after the selenium cell light meter...
One American I saw bought 400asa colour film but shot at 200 asa... maybe it gives a kind of Polaroid look to prints... dont forget you can shoot slide film and black and white... Happy shooting...guys and gals.
Nice and informative video 👍 Gonna pick one up myself on Saturday, really looking forward to it! I hope the cells haven't died off too much though 'cause it's pretty old (120 000 something serial number)
How did you go with the camera?
@@tomedwards81 The one I looked at didn't function properly. But I got another one that works like a charm. Put on new blue leathers and replaced the light seals, so it feels like new!
6:38 These are lovely though, for low light condition. I'm getting this. :D
Thanks. You have to hold very still and use a high ASA film like 400 or higher. Have fun with your Trip!
Thank you, I just got one on the Fb marketplace at 12 euros !
That’s a steal!
@@tomedwards81 😅
Awesome thanks!
You’re welcome 😉
So please can you help me answer my question hehehe where should I put my ISO though? I am new to film photography and this is the first camera I’ve bought
The ISO is determined by the film you use. This is called ASA and is the same as ISO. So for example, Portra 400 is a 400 ASA (or ISO) film. You can set the ASA/ISO by using the dial on the side of the lens, which helps the camera automatically expose photos for you. The Trip caters for film speeds from 50-400. You can use others, but as you’re a beginner I would suggest using a 200 or 400 ASA film for now.
@@tomedwards81 This is such a big help! Thanks will start trying it this weekend!!
You’re welcome. If I can be of any further help don’t hesitate to ask!
If shutter button plastic it means it's a 1970s one... an alloy one means earlier than that......
Black button came in in 1978 onward silver before that 👍🏻
Moisture kills selenium cells not exposure to light,keep it dry as you can.
Good to know thanks
Where abouts did you get your film camera?
Ben Vang in Dubbo. He's a professional vintage camera restorer.
The 35rc is much better as no selenium cell
I’ll have to try one!
@@tomedwards81 The exposure meter in a 35RC needs obsolete 1.35-volt mercury cells, which are no longer made. For more information, please read my main comment posted today (07/10/2019).
Today I went to a garage sale and got this for $7 and it works to however the case was all melted and sticky the original price was $10 but moved it to $7 since the case was destroyed by the sun Lol
oh yea forgot its the black one as well :)
also it has a sticker on it saying Passed dont know what that means
Hi Tom, if you have a flash which you can attach, which settings would you use? Thanks!
The camera has a flash sync mode where you can manually select the aperture. I would choose f2.8 in most situations. Just be aware that the camera automatically uses a 1/40th shutter speed when you have a flash connected and you can’t change this. That’s really quite slow and you will get motion blur if your subject is moving quickly.
Ah okay thank you! I was recommended a flash, when would you recommend using it, if using it at all? Thank you so much!!
Personally I wouldn't bother using a flash with this camera due to the limitation of 1/40th shutter speed. But that's just me. I'm a natural light kind of photographer. Your vibe might be different.