I always enjoy your videos. As far as the sound, today I watched 5-7 videos from other channels before this one and I still had to turn up my volume about 30+% to come close to the volume of the other others vids. I hope this is just looked at as helpful. Your Videos are Very Helpful and Appreciated.
Great little video Jeff. Keep up the good fight. Suggestion, how about a little video on how to test whether the galvanic isolator is operating properly using a multimeter. Thanks
Other boaters in the marina used to ask me how I could justify spending so much on a piece of kit that just seemed to sit there doing nothing. I just told them that it meant their boat was probably going to 'dissolve' before mine did. That usually got their attention and many then went out and bought one.
Well said. Rather have a little pain now (buying and installing a galvanic isolator) or perhaps insane pain later (stray current damage to underwater metals).
Hi there. Great video, as always. I have a 20' 2005 Bayliner 195. It's moored. I'm going to be adding a Noco Gen 5x1 battery charger connected to shore power via a plug adapter (three prong to 30A shore power adapter). There is no other shore power on the boat - only the battery charger. There is no AC system on the boat and I don't want to install one - it'd be overkill. I just need to plug in the battery charger. I'm stumped as to whether or not a) I truly need a galvanic isolator in this scenario; and b) how the isolator would be connected as there is no AC panel / power system on the boat. I *think* I'm OK without the isolator, especially if I use a GFCI extension cord when connecting the battery charger, but I can't find full information anywhere or any schematics for such a simple scenario. Thank you for whatever insight you can provide.
When installing AC onboard a boat, you should have the AC ground and DC ground connected together. This connection between AC and DC grounds is the reason we need Galvanic Isolators or Isolation transformers. Without the AC and DC bounded, there is no need for a Galvanic Isolator.
My boat is 30 amps but when I go to certain marinas they only have 50 amp. I use a step down plug but does this mean I should have a 50 amp galvanic isolator or is the 30 okay?
47’ Dufour and our Marina only has single line 30 amp shore power service. Looks like we will need a “Y” and take two 30 amp shore lines and plug into the one receptacle on the boat. With aircon and multiple appliances total amperage will certainly be over 35-45 amps maybe higher...what size galvanic isolator is recommended? One that is higher than 60 amps? Thanks.
Hi Hank, you should size the Galvanic Isolator to match the onboard shore power receptacle. If you have two 30 amp shore power receptacle, you should have two 30 amp Galvanic Isolators.
Do you have a video on how to hook up the ELCI breaker and reset? The instructions supplied are not clear to me. I install this after the galvanic isolator....correct?
Hi Jeff I have a ProSafe 30 amp galvanic isolator that is not fail safe. The normal testing procedures to test for an open circuit are somewhat complicated, so this is what I came up with. When I upgraded my AC Panel I added an AC ground to the engine (it didn’t have one), but I put a 30 amp AC switch on the ground wire. Every time I get on my boat, I turn off the ground switch and then check a receptacle polarity checker that I leave in a nearby 120 volt AC receptacle. If it indicates a proper ground to shore power I assume that the isolator is in a closed state and I immediately turn the engine ground switch back on. I am not asking for a legally binding opinion, but is my reasoning sound? Thoughts? Love this new format. Thanks.
Thanks for the Jeff, good info. I'm not really clued up on galvanic isolation, still as far as safety on a boat does it use the water as the ground reference through the ground plate ..? And is that capable of tripping an rcd?.. I'm Not really sure how they're wired, I probably need to research a bit more. FYI The sound level is a little low on the video. . Regards stormer
There is no grounding on a Galvanic Isolator, it's a device install on the grounding AC wire to shorepower, check this schematic from the PYS website: www.pysystems.ca/site/assets/files/2536/pys_galvanic_isolator.pdf
@@PacificYachtSystems thanks Jeff, much appreciated I'll have a look.. So it's purely a series device for the earth wire? Will Rcd's still will work on a boat?
Do you see many operating where the diodes are conducting so much injected noise from onboard appliances that their protection is rendered ineffective Jeff?
I've not seen it myself but I do all sorts not just boats so I've not vast experience in that aspect. Some galvanic isolators have illuminating indicators if they are being bypassed as a warning. I've not measured it myself. Anything I've done has been shore power independent. Here's the principle and reason for the question; www.smartgauge.co.uk/galv_tran.html
Hey Jeff. I have a main battery bank, a starter battery for my generator and a starter battery for my outboard. Should all the grounds be connected to the same bus?
Jeff, I have a 1981 Morgan 462 Ketch. It does not have a galvanic isolator. The boat has two 30 amp shore power connections. Do I need a separate isolator for each connection?
I have 2 30amp inputs on my boat. Do I need 2 isolation transformers.. I currently have no protection and I want to protect my new investment of lithium and all new through hulls and shafts and props
In short yes, from experience and observation, shore power inputs are normally paired to a dedicated isolation transformer. Curious if other fellow boaters have seen other types of installations.
@@PacificYachtSystems Very new to me sailboat owner. I also have two 30 amp inputs. I have two separate ac banks on the switch panel. Going to find out this weekend if one 30 amp plug feeds only one switch bank. I want a shirt to buy not a hat :)
I always enjoy your videos. As far as the sound, today I watched 5-7 videos from other channels before this one and I still had to turn up my volume about 30+% to come close to the volume of the other others vids. I hope this is just looked at as helpful.
Your Videos are Very Helpful and Appreciated.
Hi Robert, thanks for sharing about the videos... we are working on this and looking at new video and sound gear to purchase.
Great little video Jeff. Keep up the good fight. Suggestion, how about a little video on how to test whether the galvanic isolator is operating properly using a multimeter. Thanks
Great suggestion!
Other boaters in the marina used to ask me how I could justify spending so much on a piece of kit that just seemed to sit there doing nothing. I just told them that it meant their boat was probably going to 'dissolve' before mine did. That usually got their attention and many then went out and bought one.
Well said. Rather have a little pain now (buying and installing a galvanic isolator) or perhaps insane pain later (stray current damage to underwater metals).
Another good video. Thank you for working on the sound, it’s a huge improvement👍
Good to hear!
Thank you Jeff! Would you also recommend a diff model such a Newmar? The advantage in that for me would be the more compact size.
Yes, absolutely
Hi there. Great video, as always. I have a 20' 2005 Bayliner 195. It's moored. I'm going to be adding a Noco Gen 5x1 battery charger connected to shore power via a plug adapter (three prong to 30A shore power adapter). There is no other shore power on the boat - only the battery charger. There is no AC system on the boat and I don't want to install one - it'd be overkill. I just need to plug in the battery charger. I'm stumped as to whether or not a) I truly need a galvanic isolator in this scenario; and b) how the isolator would be connected as there is no AC panel / power system on the boat. I *think* I'm OK without the isolator, especially if I use a GFCI extension cord when connecting the battery charger, but I can't find full information anywhere or any schematics for such a simple scenario. Thank you for whatever insight you can provide.
When installing AC onboard a boat, you should have the AC ground and DC ground connected together. This connection between AC and DC grounds is the reason we need Galvanic Isolators or Isolation transformers. Without the AC and DC bounded, there is no need for a Galvanic Isolator.
@@PacificYachtSystems Thank you! And thanks again for all the great videos!
Good. video Jeff. Also took me years to understand what ‘closed’ and ‘open’ mean..
Thanks! Glad my reasoning made sense.
Hi, I have 2 30 amp 110 v Shore power cords coming in , Do I need 2 galvanic isolators? One is in the bow the others in the Stern.
My boat is 30 amps but when I go to certain marinas they only have 50 amp. I use a step down plug but does this mean I should have a 50 amp galvanic isolator or is the 30 okay?
47’ Dufour and our Marina only has single line 30 amp shore power service. Looks like we will need a “Y” and take two 30 amp shore lines and plug into the one receptacle on the boat. With aircon and multiple appliances total amperage will certainly be over 35-45 amps maybe higher...what size galvanic isolator is recommended? One that is higher than 60 amps? Thanks.
Hi Hank, you should size the Galvanic Isolator to match the onboard shore power receptacle. If you have two 30 amp shore power receptacle, you should have two 30 amp Galvanic Isolators.
@@PacificYachtSystems I have one receptacle...
Do you have a video on how to hook up the ELCI breaker and reset? The instructions supplied are not clear to me. I install this after the galvanic isolator....correct?
Good suggestion for a future video.
Hi Jeff
I have a ProSafe 30 amp galvanic isolator that is not fail safe. The normal testing procedures to test for an open circuit are somewhat complicated, so this is what I came up with. When I upgraded my AC Panel I added an AC ground to the engine (it didn’t have one), but I put a 30 amp AC switch on the ground wire. Every time I get on my boat, I turn off the ground switch and then check a receptacle polarity checker that I leave in a nearby 120 volt AC receptacle. If it indicates a proper ground to shore power I assume that the isolator is in a closed state and I immediately turn the engine ground switch back on. I am not asking for a legally binding opinion, but is my reasoning sound? Thoughts?
Love this new format. Thanks.
Interesting approach as a work around. Never tried this and not sure if there is any gotchas we aren't thinking about.
Thanks for the Jeff, good info. I'm not really clued up on galvanic isolation, still as far as safety on a boat does it use the water as the ground reference through the ground plate ..? And is that capable of tripping an rcd?.. I'm Not really sure how they're wired, I probably need to research a bit more. FYI The sound level is a little low on the video. . Regards stormer
There is no grounding on a Galvanic Isolator, it's a device install on the grounding AC wire to shorepower, check this schematic from the PYS website:
www.pysystems.ca/site/assets/files/2536/pys_galvanic_isolator.pdf
@@PacificYachtSystems thanks Jeff, much appreciated I'll have a look.. So it's purely a series device for the earth wire? Will Rcd's still will work on a boat?
Do you see many operating where the diodes are conducting so much injected noise from onboard appliances that their protection is rendered ineffective Jeff?
Never heard of this... is this prevalent?
I've not seen it myself but I do all sorts not just boats so I've not vast experience in that aspect. Some galvanic isolators have illuminating indicators if they are being bypassed as a warning. I've not measured it myself. Anything I've done has been shore power independent.
Here's the principle and reason for the question;
www.smartgauge.co.uk/galv_tran.html
Hey Jeff. I have a main battery bank, a starter battery for my generator and a starter battery for my outboard. Should all the grounds be connected to the same bus?
Absolutely, all DC negatives need to be common and grounded.
Jeff, I have a 1981 Morgan 462 Ketch. It does not have a galvanic isolator. The boat has two 30 amp shore power connections. Do I need a separate isolator for each connection?
Yep, a dedicated 30 amp galvanic isolator per shore power inlet.
Where do I connect AC ground from Shore power? DC negative bus?
Yep, AC ground and DC ground need to be common, i.e. connected.
@@PacificYachtSystems Thank you
I have 2 30amp inputs on my boat. Do I need 2 isolation transformers.. I currently have no protection and I want to protect my new investment of lithium and all new through hulls and shafts and props
In short yes, from experience and observation, shore power inputs are normally paired to a dedicated isolation transformer.
Curious if other fellow boaters have seen other types of installations.
@@PacificYachtSystems Very new to me sailboat owner. I also have two 30 amp inputs. I have two separate ac banks on the switch panel. Going to find out this weekend if one 30 amp plug feeds only one switch bank.
I want a shirt to buy not a hat :)
I too would love shirts
With all the electronics around you it's still sounds like you're talking in a closet something's off on the audio
Working on it... it's a journey. Thanks for the feedback.