I know Marty spent a bit of time ditching on measurements... and that's okay. But a couple of tips from a service technician, who replaces these things as part of the job, if you don't mind... 1) The best technique when pulling a chip out of a socket is to pull straight up with a very gentle end to end wiggling motion. The socket is a friction fit, there's no lock. It might take a bit of pull but it won't bend the pins as long as you have the chip firmly locked into the extraction tool. Apply pressure to clamp the chip. 2) Take a real close look at those sockets under a magnifying glass. In the true military grade socket, those are copying, the gold inserts are shaped like a little funnel that will guide the pins into place automatically. However these imitations have a flat bottom on them. If you don't get the pins started into the bottom holes before you press down you're going to bend them and you may have one or more that are not making contact. What I do is view it through a magnifier and use the big end of a sewing pin to nudge the tips of the pins into the bottom holes first. Then I press it into place. 3) As a general precaution and because these op-amps are so cheap, I never reinsert one after pulling it out. I always use a new chip, every time. 4) Be aware that in a service scenario these chips might get replaced once in the lifetime of a device. The sockets are there to accommodate that. They are not designed to be tugged and pressed on a whole bunch of times. Since this whole "chip flipping" craze started, I've replaced more damaged sockets than chips. I replace them with true military grade sockets. 5) The op-amps in these mini-amps (V3, A07, etc.) are not providing any gain. They run at "unity gain" serving as a "phase splitter" for the balanced inputs of the TPA3255 amplifier chip. Thus any differences we notice will be truly slight and at some point not worth the price of the replacement chips. I certainly wouldn't be spending $75.00 for the discrete op-amps in this case... even $10.00 each is questionable value. Hope this helps....
Owning a 07 i'm considering a new op amp. However i'm thinking if it is worth it OR just go for a $200 better amp. Feels like getting the cheapest guitar and upgrading it with pickups twice the cost...worth it?
@@treishtrei First off... price is not a good indicator of quality. There are some very good op-amps that are dirt cheap because they make literally millions of them (because they're good op-amps) where the more expensive ones tend to be made in small batches, some even by hand and quite frankly tend not to be much better. The RC4558 is a good choice for under $1.00 each as is the TL072 which runs about $1.00 each ... both will give you some improvement in deep bass (because of their higher input impedances) and both offer better fidelity than the NE5532 chips.
Might need to use some good headphones.. those speakers / cables combo are not very ravealing in the midrange region. I hear very little difference if any.
I thought the difference was too small to hear over the internet! It could differ depending on location, but I think it was minimal. Friendly greetings from The Netherlands! Rob
I never had any luck with that style of IC extractor, or even the posher ones. I found it MUCH safer and easier, to just gently pry each end of the chip with a small flat screwdriver. Prying slightly at each end of the chip in turn, you get very used to it after a while. Just be careful not to shove the screwdriver between the socket and the PCB. I've done that once or twice in the past. lol
That's a bit of a quandry. The TPA3255 chip is fixed gain. It doesn't matter what the supply voltage is (within it's safety range) the gain and general audio performance remains the same. I've tried this and some of my clients have tried it... Set the volume to a comfortable level, free of clipping or distortion. Now without changing anything else, unplug the 32 volt supply and plug in the 48 volt one... it will sound exactly the same. The extra voltage gives you about 3db of extra headroom, and not much else. The only time you really need the 48volt supply is if you are clipping the 32volt one all the time.
Interesting. I've read so many reviews mentioning OPA2604AP as a very good choice, with warm, but like a super detailed, wide and balanced sound. Although here I found it rather muddy, I tried to perceive it like a certain "dark" colouring, but failed cause having in fact a bit wider stage it performs som that I found pretty much every band to sound grainy and kinda overlapping, interfering each other what makes the overall sound noticeably less clear than the stock IC did. Sure, it can be my setup's sound that makes it sound like that.
NE 5532 Sounds very slightly more „Open“ so no Need to Switch at all! Only SPARKOS will make a noticeable difference - but they cost as much as the whole amplifier! Use carpets! Everything will sound better!
Why does nobody experience piercing sounds with the stock NE5532 op amp, while on some recordings, sibilance becomes uncontrollably pronounced? I only find one reviewer reporting that so far.
In your test and as you mentioned the 2604s sounded better to me with how RUclips presents the audio. Thank you for the test but the only real test will be in each listing room with their individuals speakers. Everyone needs to take this test as a reference point and decide if the difference represented here is headed in the direction they want or go. It will be fun to try them all but I'm afraid each set of op amps will work better in different music genre.
Rolling dead spiders. 😎👍 Well done. RUclips compression makes it near impossible to hear. Even hi-resolution recorded files are near impossible to hear. I have an ESS Sabre DAC with switchable filters. The audible changes are very, very small. Some of the filters can cause a sense of pleasure or aggravation after a period of time listening on a fairly highly resolving system. Like some cable / Interconnect changes. I have a few different DAC's and amplifiers on hand now, and I'm thinking that I will not be rolling anything, unless I'm displeased with something about the sound on a longer term. At least rolling dead spiders is cheaper than constant amp and speaker changes 😎👍
I tried a few under $20 opamps in the V3 I could not tell much of a difference then I tried the muses02 and finally yes better sound but they cost more than the amp.
Here on a k5 pro ess+custom u3 (ups+apo2134apq) on an hifiman ananda v3 stealth the diference is quite perceptible in less than even a single second hearing it. Ofc, depending on your sound equipment your mileage may vary.
I don't think you can. They probably get the board pre-stocked with the default OpAmps from the factory anyway. So you always kinda have to do a bit of DIY modding.
I have swapped the op amps on some of my cd players i always solder in a socket so they can be changed back if needed .I normally just use a small screw driver to get the out of the sockets but this .I preferred a but so many other things to take into account hearing it in person would be the true experience listening from your recording of the audio and thrue my laptop and speakers or reciever it could all sound a bit different here .
Hahaha you make me laugh. I love how you just try stuff 😉👍 swapped my opamps in my aiyima 07max with muses8920. They sound superb! Would advise you a bit more expensive opamps 👍 then the sound difference is huge!
thank you for the comparison . it`s also a matter of taste and 5532 is much more like an allrounder . the other components like room acoustics before all would have a tremendous impact on listening experience . the circuit components are also very critical for the desired sound .
Installing an operational amplifier with a field input into the I-V converter is not the best idea, better than LT1496, OPA2211, LT1364, in a high-pass filter you can use OP 2604, but better than OPA2132P, Muses 8920.
Opamp rolling without understanding the entire circuit is pretty much rolling the dice. I mean in textbook designed line and buffer stages the chance the get lucky with a boutique opamp are the highest. However if more engineering was involved to squeeze out max sound- quality at a low budget even line and bufferstages can be taylored to a specific opamp and simply changing only it can result in frustration.
You would not want that in this application. The circuitry on the board configures the standard 8 pin layout as a phase splitter. Whatever you put in there has to conform to that layout.
A - more upfront and parallel to your face as an audience. Less imaging due to closeness, but main tonal dynamics are more vivid. B- slightly further back and higher as an audience. More imaging, less pronounced main tonal dynamics.
I thought they sounded different rather than better/worse (My Pc has a pair of jbl104 monitors attached and with you tube compression, I could be talking complete rubbish) However to me it was more a different presentation rather then a better one. But deffo as you say, if I were sitting in your room I might think differently. Like you I like to read what everyone else thinks.
I played your video through a Adcom GFA-4302 class A amp. I actually thought A sounded better. There isn’t a op amp IC in my amplifier. It’s all discrete stages built into the circuit board. At least on my stereo, A sounded better. To each their own. Thanks for the video. I’m going to buy some Burson discrete op amps and install them into my Soundstream reference class A Picasso and see if it makes a difference. It currently has OP257GP op amps.
I thought a little cleaner bass from one and the other a little deeper but not really listening again, the highs on one of the first songs sounded ever so little brighter,more open switching to A
Anyone with a Ultrvox LP gets my respect! LOL the opa2604 was my fav some 20 yrs ago....cheap and did a good job. Overall, it provided better definition, you feel you get a bit more of this and that but in actual fact, it's just more details, making tones more defined
Despite the. Limitations of RUclips sound quality (and the horrid recordings used), I felt that the OPA2604 sounded a bit better. Will have to try on my own amplifier. Thanks
"RUBBISH!" where the earphones I had now at hand to listen to. SO, given that, I could hear the difference on vocals and highs, even through the phone speakers while I was reaching for the earphones. If it's noticeable from a recorded sound, with compressed audio, through a phone, on not so good earphones, I would say it's worth it 💪🏻
Definitley 2604 were superior. The snare sounded more whole and fuller. Sounds like a LPF on the 2604. What I noticed was the vocals sounded much better. I'm not sure if the difference is worth the effort to be honest.
I replaced the 5532NE with an OPA2604 on my Fosi V3 today. The replacement is justified, the sound is much better, the vocals are livelier, not as cloudy as on the 5532NE, the sound stage is wider, in the upper range can hear more nuances, the sound is more detailed. I took the original ones around town, they are cheaper here 16 dollars for two. I recommend them in particular. You don't need more expensive ones here, there is definitely no point in putting Muses, Burr Brown steers well in terms of sound.
P.S. Supplement after 4 hours of listening. OPA2604 has a more "fatter" sound in contrast to the 5532, this is especially felt on heavy music. At medium frequencies, the vocals are better, however, it is slightly distributed to the left and right sides, on the 5532 it is clearly in the center, which at first glance may not be in favor of OPA2604, but in general it adds more expressiveness and volume to the vocals.
i had muse 2 on my aune dac and tried a 2604 and the sound stage died completely my muse was so much alive it like my sound went mono and the crazy part i paid like 6 buck for the muse on a well known web site from china so it could be fake but i recommend it made my nad semi hifi system awesome so seriously listen to me for couple buck u wont regret it
In my opinion, the NE5532 is better, the sound is noticeably cleaner, but there is less bass. With the OPA2640, what remains in my ears is a slightly noticeable, dirty, indistinct sound. I think both op-amps are great, but the NE5532 wins for me in this presentation.
@@muppetpaster given the many anomalies from listening on my system to another system played over RUclips….then yes I found a difference in the systems.
bought a pair of those, i didn't do the switch yet because i'm afraid they are fake and might harm my amp (bt20a pro) . from where did you bought yours?
I choose A, the NE5532 op-amp as the sound is more natural and transparent; however, the amplifier was designed and tested using the venerable NE5532 op-amp, which underwent rigorous testing and measured well in the laboratory, with meticulously selected passive and active components for the best matching, though changing op-amps to another one, such as the OPA2604 FET op-amp, seems a good idea but must be measured for generated noise and distortion, as it is the surrounding circuit in the op-amp that also determines the sound quality based on how it was designed, the degree of transparency, nuance, and timbral accuracy, and since the amplifier was designed using a bipolar op-amp, the NE5532 was chosen.
Just sounded like things got tighter and crispier with the new op amp. 10-15% difference at most, not worth the extra money. At that point I'd be considering a proper pre/amp from Yamaha/Sony that will have extra inputs, Bluetooth and a remote control. This amp is only good for desktop setups, or if you have a DAC/preamp with a remote control. Otherwise we're back in the 80's, coming up to the stereo to change the volume ;) Thx for the review! Btw, I got me a Q Acoustics 3090C Centre Speaker and wow, the sound is so transparent, no cabinet resonance or any sound coloration, only $99 and already out of stock ;)) Love Q Acoustics, it's my first experience too!
Replacing an op amp is more likely to add distortion as the Equipment you have is designed around the opamp inside. Most people don't have enough electronic knowledge to do this. Every mixing desk in the audio chain has gone through hundreds of NE5532. So you put in an unsuitable JFet OPamp in a little box in your living room, you hear some high frequency noise and think it sounds better because you paid more for it, Unless you can test an improvement you are probably making things worse. Plenty of High End audio use Philips / Signetics NE5532 because they are perfect for audio,
On the NE5532 the stage sounds natural and cohesive, the sound on the left, middle and right is clearly audible, but on the OPA2604AP the stage is disrupted, audible on the left, the middle is crushed, and the right is crushed. I do not take any responsibility for google translate :)
For me, the original op-amp sound much clearer, coherent and musical. The 2604 sounds slightly harsh and all over the place, has a weaker bass, and lacks coherence. But maybe it's just youtube 😄
Mmm. Don't agree. The 2604 sounds like its got a LPF on it, so how it could sound harsher? To me the main difference seem to be in the mids and upper mids. On the 2604 has a fuller sounding snare. But what what really struck me was the vocals on the rap song popped on the 2604, really came forward.
A had a little more space …B had a little more bass if you could have the best of both that would be good for a decent price. These amps are good for designing and we will have some interesting versions to come. For the price it’s a good place to start! It’s a new Dynaco and Heathkit era .
I hardly heard any difference, all these Fosi, Ayima "budget"chipamps sound more or less the same, that is FLAT HARSH and therefor quicky fatiguing, what REALLY makes a HUGE and instant notaceble difference is audition a REAL CLASS A amp.... like the still pretty affordable BRZHIFI MUSIC FAX A21 , availeble from Alie express for around 250 Euro's , this is a chinese Clone; of the Famous Britisch made, Musical Fidelety a1 amp from the 80"s, that whas a real "High End amplifier, with a lovely warm and deteiled sound, with even today very few amps can touch....only drawback was its ernomous heat production ( you coold cook an egg on it) and of course the price ( the make an improved version witch does not run that hot but at a price, the chinese copied the most of the amp, and put newer an much better parts in it aswell gave it a very sturdy and bigger housing, that manage the heat way better, i was toyying just as you with a few chipamps but one day ( fed up with their schrill sound) ordered one from alie, result? MUch more "musical sound" detail, stereo with AND dept, a spound wich invites you to keep listening for hours on end, no more Harschness, the brzhifi is "only 20 watts per channel, but has way more current drive than these chip amps . so behaves like a 2X100 watt amp, even with 88 db eficient speakers you can get the police nokkong at your door. try to audician one , bet you be amazed.
I personally blind tested many times the NE5532P aginst straight wire (level matched of course), and to my ears it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever to the sound. So, any "OP-amp swap" is going to make either no change, or DEGRADE the sound. The fact that you hear a difference when replacing the NE5532P with a different OP-amp does not mean that you're getting an improvement. Anything sounding different than straight wire is in fact a degradation.
Despite the compression everything is perfectly audible on RUclips, the main thing is that everything was filmed and recorded correctly before it went on RUclips.
Very funny//Texas audio amp chip has clearer and better treble while BB OPA is better in bass. I don't think there is a winner...it's not Opa better, sorry Mr. Presenter.😂
OPA2604 might sound "impressive" in some aspects, but it is a colored sound, and has completely unnatural timbre. It's glair-y, and artificial, like most BB amps. Because it's a FET op-amp, it has the precision of a "class D" amp, but that also means it's got it's harshness and sterility as well. 5532 is the most natural sounding op-amp to this day, however the TI version is the worst sounding one. Try an NJM5532DD by JRC/Nisshinbo. It's smoother and even more natural. The 2604's you got looks real. They should have "Thailand" on the bottom.
I don't agree with you, maybe 5532 sounds bad, but 2604 is very musical and not natural as you say. It suits V3 very well, for this little money it's a good step up.
As a former drummer I can attest that the snare sounds paper thin on 5532. It sounds like a snare should on the 2604. Imo. Im not sure about any compromises elswhere but the vocals sounded better too. B over A for me.
@@johnmellor932 Which 5532? If it's the Texas Instruments version, yeah. They are the poorest sounding, and they are "thin" in the midrange. The NJM though is really good, although it can be a bit "muddy". ROHM's BA15532 probably performs the best, I would use that for music production if 5532 is needed. The 2604 is a completely colored op-amp, especially at the bass and mids, and it's timbre is way off from neutrality. I wouldn't use that op-amp for ANY music production. The LM833 is probably the most transparent OP-AMP, meaning it amplifies purely, without any coloration. Different manufacturers also sound different, with the original National Semiconductor ones sounding the best (they are found in some old CD players). Current production best sounding LM833 is made by ST in SOP8 package. The TI version sounds atrocious, similar to their NE5532 - avoid it. The OnSemi version also doesn't sound as good, it's dull and rounded. When it comes to the 5532, MULTICOMP has started production of their own version (KM5532), which I am going to test soon as well.
I know Marty spent a bit of time ditching on measurements... and that's okay.
But a couple of tips from a service technician, who replaces these things as part of the job, if you don't mind...
1) The best technique when pulling a chip out of a socket is to pull straight up with a very gentle end to end wiggling motion. The socket is a friction fit, there's no lock. It might take a bit of pull but it won't bend the pins as long as you have the chip firmly locked into the extraction tool. Apply pressure to clamp the chip.
2) Take a real close look at those sockets under a magnifying glass. In the true military grade socket, those are copying, the gold inserts are shaped like a little funnel that will guide the pins into place automatically. However these imitations have a flat bottom on them. If you don't get the pins started into the bottom holes before you press down you're going to bend them and you may have one or more that are not making contact. What I do is view it through a magnifier and use the big end of a sewing pin to nudge the tips of the pins into the bottom holes first. Then I press it into place.
3) As a general precaution and because these op-amps are so cheap, I never reinsert one after pulling it out. I always use a new chip, every time.
4) Be aware that in a service scenario these chips might get replaced once in the lifetime of a device. The sockets are there to accommodate that. They are not designed to be tugged and pressed on a whole bunch of times. Since this whole "chip flipping" craze started, I've replaced more damaged sockets than chips. I replace them with true military grade sockets.
5) The op-amps in these mini-amps (V3, A07, etc.) are not providing any gain. They run at "unity gain" serving as a "phase splitter" for the balanced inputs of the TPA3255 amplifier chip. Thus any differences we notice will be truly slight and at some point not worth the price of the replacement chips. I certainly wouldn't be spending $75.00 for the discrete op-amps in this case... even $10.00 each is questionable value.
Hope this helps....
Thanks, very helpful and well put.
@@UTILITARIANTVUK
You're welcome.
I just don't want to see people have problems.
Owning a 07 i'm considering a new op amp. However i'm thinking if it is worth it OR just go for a $200 better amp. Feels like getting the cheapest guitar and upgrading it with pickups twice the cost...worth it?
@@treishtrei
First off... price is not a good indicator of quality. There are some very good op-amps that are dirt cheap because they make literally millions of them (because they're good op-amps) where the more expensive ones tend to be made in small batches, some even by hand and quite frankly tend not to be much better.
The RC4558 is a good choice for under $1.00 each as is the TL072 which runs about $1.00 each ... both will give you some improvement in deep bass (because of their higher input impedances) and both offer better fidelity than the NE5532 chips.
@@Douglas_Blake_579 thanks a lot man!!!
That’s what I swapped on my v3. More sound stage. Mids. Vocal is superior. You definitely can hear the difference.
I'm convinced
Oh wait
No I'm not
In a properly conducted double blind test you couldn't pick which is which if your life depended on it
Might need to use some good headphones.. those speakers / cables combo are not very ravealing in the midrange region. I hear very little difference if any.
I thought the difference was too small to hear over the internet!
It could differ depending on location, but I think it was minimal.
Friendly greetings from The Netherlands!
Rob
I've used the op amp removal tool many times and can't comprehend how proper use would mangle an op amp that badly. Maybe just operator error?
That kind of devistation usually results from thinking you're changing a tire... grab loosely and yank.
I never had any luck with that style of IC extractor, or even the posher ones.
I found it MUCH safer and easier, to just gently pry each end of the chip with a small flat screwdriver.
Prying slightly at each end of the chip in turn, you get very used to it after a while.
Just be careful not to shove the screwdriver between the socket and the PCB. I've done that once or twice in the past. lol
I ttok the test and preferred A - the 5532
I concur. The 5532 does sound better.
Me too.
Your op amp removal is a very good part of the video, showing HOW NOT TO DO. Maybe you should do more HOW NOT TO DO videos. 😉👍
Alternatively, just take the amp to a qualified technician and pay a few bucks to have it done properly.
Have you thought of getting the bigger 48v power supply, to change the sound even more?
That's a bit of a quandry. The TPA3255 chip is fixed gain. It doesn't matter what the supply voltage is (within it's safety range) the gain and general audio performance remains the same.
I've tried this and some of my clients have tried it... Set the volume to a comfortable level, free of clipping or distortion. Now without changing anything else, unplug the 32 volt supply and plug in the 48 volt one... it will sound exactly the same.
The extra voltage gives you about 3db of extra headroom, and not much else. The only time you really need the 48volt supply is if you are clipping the 32volt one all the time.
Interesting. I've read so many reviews mentioning OPA2604AP as a very good choice, with warm, but like a super detailed, wide and balanced sound. Although here I found it rather muddy, I tried to perceive it like a certain "dark" colouring, but failed cause having in fact a bit wider stage it performs som that I found pretty much every band to sound grainy and kinda overlapping, interfering each other what makes the overall sound noticeably less clear than the stock IC did. Sure, it can be my setup's sound that makes it sound like that.
NE 5532 Sounds very slightly more „Open“ so no Need to Switch at all! Only SPARKOS will make a noticeable difference - but they cost as much as the whole amplifier! Use carpets! Everything will sound better!
I swapped to Muse 02, is less bright but with more detail. I like both. The NE5532 (stock) do a good job.
Try the 8920 also, they sound even better tbh
stock have no details at all :/
I think the muses02 is good with the V3 monos.
The Za3 need a bit more soundstage via the sparkos discreet (pricey)
Why does nobody experience piercing sounds with the stock NE5532 op amp, while on some recordings, sibilance becomes uncontrollably pronounced? I only find one reviewer reporting that so far.
That is far more likely to be the fault of the recordings, than the op-amp.
If it was the op-amp you'd hear the same thing in every recording.
In your test and as you mentioned the 2604s sounded better to me with how RUclips presents the audio. Thank you for the test but the only real test will be in each listing room with their individuals speakers. Everyone needs to take this test as a reference point and decide if the difference represented here is headed in the direction they want or go. It will be fun to try them all but I'm afraid each set of op amps will work better in different music genre.
Rolling dead spiders. 😎👍
Well done.
RUclips compression makes it near impossible to hear.
Even hi-resolution recorded files are near impossible to hear.
I have an ESS Sabre DAC with switchable filters.
The audible changes are very, very small.
Some of the filters can cause a sense of pleasure or aggravation after a period of time listening on a fairly highly resolving system.
Like some cable / Interconnect changes.
I have a few different DAC's and amplifiers on hand now, and I'm thinking that I will not be rolling anything, unless I'm displeased with something about the sound on a longer term.
At least rolling dead spiders is cheaper than constant amp and speaker changes 😎👍
I tried a few under $20 opamps in the V3 I could not tell much of a difference then I tried the muses02 and finally yes better sound but they cost more than the amp.
Try the RC4558 or TL072 chips ... both give better bass extension and they cost less than $1.00 (cdn) each.
@@Douglas_Blake_579
Is it compatible with V3, because Fosi never recommended this two op amp and I don't know about technical.
@@familyng7223
I would not recommend them if they weren't.
You should try AD712
Here on a k5 pro ess+custom u3 (ups+apo2134apq) on an hifiman ananda v3 stealth the diference is quite perceptible in less than even a single second hearing it. Ofc, depending on your sound equipment your mileage may vary.
Can you buy an upgraded opamp version? Don't need the inferior ones.
I don't think you can. They probably get the board pre-stocked with the default OpAmps from the factory anyway. So you always kinda have to do a bit of DIY modding.
Keep the originals as spares.
I have swapped the op amps on some of my cd players i always solder in a socket so they can be changed back if needed .I normally just use a small screw driver to get the out of the sockets but this .I preferred a but so many other things to take into account hearing it in person would be the true experience listening from your recording of the audio and thrue my laptop and speakers or reciever it could all sound a bit different here .
Both sound good but the OPA2604APs sounds better to me and more three dimensional.
Hahaha you make me laugh. I love how you just try stuff 😉👍 swapped my opamps in my aiyima 07max with muses8920. They sound superb! Would advise you a bit more expensive opamps 👍 then the sound difference is huge!
thank you for the comparison . it`s also a matter of taste and 5532 is much more like an allrounder . the other components like room acoustics before all would have a tremendous impact on listening experience . the circuit components are also very critical for the desired sound .
Installing an operational amplifier with a field input into the I-V converter is not the best idea, better than LT1496, OPA2211, LT1364, in a high-pass filter you can use OP 2604, but better than OPA2132P, Muses 8920.
Use a flat blad micro screw driver and pry it upwards to release . The pins stay intact.always, photograph before removal just in case.
Opamp rolling without understanding the entire circuit is pretty much rolling the dice.
I mean in textbook designed line and buffer stages the chance the get lucky with a boutique
opamp are the highest. However if more engineering was involved to squeeze out max sound-
quality at a low budget even line and bufferstages can be taylored to a specific opamp and
simply changing only it can result in frustration.
Fosi Audio recommended this Op amp for V3
Which are Rail-To-Rail Balanced outs?
You would not want that in this application. The circuitry on the board configures the standard 8 pin layout as a phase splitter. Whatever you put in there has to conform to that layout.
A - more upfront and parallel to your face as an audience. Less imaging due to closeness, but main tonal dynamics are more vivid.
B- slightly further back and higher as an audience. More imaging, less pronounced main tonal dynamics.
I thought they sounded different rather than better/worse (My Pc has a pair of jbl104 monitors attached and with you tube compression, I could be talking complete rubbish) However to me it was more a different presentation rather then a better one. But deffo as you say, if I were sitting in your room I might think differently. Like you I like to read what everyone else thinks.
I played your video through a Adcom GFA-4302 class A amp. I actually thought A sounded better. There isn’t a op amp IC in my amplifier. It’s all discrete stages built into the circuit board. At least on my stereo, A sounded better. To each their own. Thanks for the video.
I’m going to buy some Burson discrete op amps and install them into my Soundstream reference class A Picasso and see if it makes a difference. It currently has OP257GP op amps.
I thought a little cleaner bass from one and the other a little deeper but not really listening again, the highs on one of the first songs sounded ever so little brighter,more open switching to A
Anyone with a Ultrvox LP gets my respect! LOL
the opa2604 was my fav some 20 yrs ago....cheap and did a good job. Overall, it provided better definition, you feel you get a bit more of this and that but in actual fact, it's just more details, making tones more defined
Despite the. Limitations of RUclips sound quality (and the horrid recordings used),
I felt that the OPA2604 sounded a bit better. Will have to try on my own amplifier. Thanks
I heard no difference
ON paper they are about the same, with the OPA2604 slightly flatter high end, and the NE5532 half the noise!
Just like to know the difference between quid in American dollars because I live in crummy America
1 quid (pound) is equivalent to $1.25c
I don’t particularly like the stereo version of the v3 relative to the mono version…
He's such a funny guy 😄 I'm watching you in south korea
"RUBBISH!" where the earphones I had now at hand to listen to. SO, given that, I could hear the difference on vocals and highs, even through the phone speakers while I was reaching for the earphones.
If it's noticeable from a recorded sound, with compressed audio, through a phone, on not so good earphones, I would say it's worth it 💪🏻
Definitley 2604 were superior. The snare sounded more whole and fuller. Sounds like a LPF on the 2604. What I noticed was the vocals sounded much better. I'm not sure if the difference is worth the effort to be honest.
How to feel the difference with my inferiors amps? LOL. Your conclusion is what matters!
I replaced the 5532NE with an OPA2604 on my Fosi V3 today. The replacement is justified, the sound is much better, the vocals are livelier, not as cloudy as on the 5532NE, the sound stage is wider, in the upper range can hear more nuances, the sound is more detailed. I took the original ones around town, they are cheaper here 16 dollars for two. I recommend them in particular. You don't need more expensive ones here, there is definitely no point in putting Muses, Burr Brown steers well in terms of sound.
P.S. Supplement after 4 hours of listening. OPA2604 has a more "fatter" sound in contrast to the 5532, this is especially felt on heavy music. At medium frequencies, the vocals are better, however, it is slightly distributed to the left and right sides, on the 5532 it is clearly in the center, which at first glance may not be in favor of OPA2604, but in general it adds more expressiveness and volume to the vocals.
i had muse 2 on my aune dac and tried a 2604 and the sound stage died completely my muse was so much alive it like my sound went mono and the crazy part i paid like 6 buck for the muse on a well known web site from china so it could be fake but i recommend it made my nad semi hifi system awesome so seriously listen to me for couple buck u wont regret it
B was better or me
more deffinition on ne5532 and little warm on opa2604 ap
The 5532 is suitable for high gains >10.Try jrc 2068 DD and will be suprised..
In my opinion, the NE5532 is better, the sound is noticeably cleaner, but there is less bass. With the OPA2640, what remains in my ears is a slightly noticeable, dirty, indistinct sound. I think both op-amps are great, but the NE5532 wins for me in this presentation.
I found that A sounded better for me 🤔👍
Hahahaha... That's neat...😂😂😂 Through all the RUclips algorithms and compression...
@@muppetpaster quite correct…I’d already commented on a similar post from this RUclipsr saying a similar thing.
@@muppetpaster given the many anomalies from listening on my system to another system played over RUclips….then yes I found a difference in the systems.
Difference is less than moving your head 1CM up or down
And your shoulder was really close on the tweeter dome of the speaker! be careful.
We listening can't hear a difference. Not enough for us to know what is a and B. Or the difference between the two is to suttle.
Opa2604 is really cold and nasty. Try opa2134 ! This one is better. fuller sound, warmer, nice harmonics.
Yep. Added a pair to my Aiyima A07. Much improvement in sound. Very happy with change.
bought a pair of those, i didn't do the switch yet because i'm afraid they are fake and might harm my amp (bt20a pro) . from where did you bought yours?
I buy mine at mouser.
Slight difference in midbass, and focus.
I choose A, the NE5532 op-amp as the sound is more natural and transparent; however, the amplifier was designed and tested using the venerable NE5532 op-amp, which underwent rigorous testing and measured well in the laboratory, with meticulously selected passive and active components for the best matching, though changing op-amps to another one, such as the OPA2604 FET op-amp, seems a good idea but must be measured for generated noise and distortion, as it is the surrounding circuit in the op-amp that also determines the sound quality based on how it was designed, the degree of transparency, nuance, and timbral accuracy, and since the amplifier was designed using a bipolar op-amp, the NE5532 was chosen.
Naaa ... they probably used the 5532 because it's dirt cheap and easily available.
NE5532는 소리가 퍼지고 OPA2604는 소리가 단단한 느낌입니다.
My painted on ears don't detect any difference. But that's me, your mileage will vary...
I guessed it correctly...OPA2604 is smoother
Just sounded like things got tighter and crispier with the new op amp. 10-15% difference at most, not worth the extra money. At that point I'd be considering a proper pre/amp from Yamaha/Sony that will have extra inputs, Bluetooth and a remote control. This amp is only good for desktop setups, or if you have a DAC/preamp with a remote control. Otherwise we're back in the 80's, coming up to the stereo to change the volume ;) Thx for the review! Btw, I got me a Q Acoustics 3090C Centre Speaker and wow, the sound is so transparent, no cabinet resonance or any sound coloration, only $99 and already out of stock ;)) Love Q Acoustics, it's my first experience too!
11:56 "B" le hitt (i piatti) quasi non si sentono
Replacing an op amp is more likely to add distortion as the Equipment you have is designed around the opamp inside. Most people don't have enough electronic knowledge to do this. Every mixing desk in the audio chain has gone through hundreds of NE5532. So you put in an unsuitable JFet OPamp in a little box in your living room, you hear some high frequency noise and think it sounds better because you paid more for it, Unless you can test an improvement you are probably making things worse. Plenty of High End audio use Philips / Signetics NE5532 because they are perfect for audio,
On the NE5532 the stage sounds natural and cohesive, the sound on the left, middle and right is clearly audible, but on the OPA2604AP the stage is disrupted, audible on the left, the middle is crushed, and the right is crushed.
I do not take any responsibility for google translate :)
There is a lot of this middle in the "middle", as you can say, in 5532, due to which the sound seems sluggish and flat.
the rap sonG was at home w. B. and A was more appropriate on every other sound example.
For me, the original op-amp sound much clearer, coherent and musical. The 2604 sounds slightly harsh and all over the place, has a weaker bass, and lacks coherence.
But maybe it's just youtube 😄
On my setup they both sounded exactly like my headphones ... go figure.
Mmm. Don't agree. The 2604 sounds like its got a LPF on it, so how it could sound harsher? To me the main difference seem to be in the mids and upper mids. On the 2604 has a fuller sounding snare. But what what really struck me was the vocals on the rap song popped on the 2604, really came forward.
Thumbs up for showing the mistake you make. Thanks
No differences for me
the original ne5532's looked fake to me, not saying they definitely are.
A had a little more space …B had a little more bass if you could have the best of both that would be good for a decent price. These amps are good for designing and we will have some interesting versions to come. For the price it’s a good place to start! It’s a new Dynaco and Heathkit era .
Guess you bought fake rebranded opa2604, they both sound as 5532 lol 😂
I couldn't hear much difference at all.
Another audio component saved from the cursed NE5532 garbage. Well done!
Treating your room will give you lightyears better audio quality than all this questionable OPAMP rolling :)
B. The simbal almost real.
Both sound exactly the same, no real surprise.
1:45 And then you still don't know.....😉
I hardly heard any difference, all these Fosi, Ayima "budget"chipamps sound more or less the same, that is FLAT HARSH and therefor quicky fatiguing, what REALLY makes a HUGE and instant notaceble difference is audition a REAL CLASS A amp.... like the still pretty affordable BRZHIFI MUSIC FAX A21 , availeble from Alie express for around 250 Euro's , this is a chinese Clone; of the Famous Britisch made, Musical Fidelety a1 amp from the 80"s, that whas a real "High End amplifier, with a lovely warm and deteiled sound, with even today very few amps can touch....only drawback was its ernomous heat production ( you coold cook an egg on it) and of course the price ( the make an improved version witch does not run that hot but at a price, the chinese copied the most of the amp, and put newer an much better parts in it aswell gave it a very sturdy and bigger housing, that manage the heat way better, i was toyying just as you with a few chipamps but one day ( fed up with their schrill sound) ordered one from alie, result?
MUch more "musical sound" detail, stereo with AND dept, a spound wich invites you to keep listening for hours on end, no more Harschness, the brzhifi is "only 20 watts per channel, but has way more current drive than these chip amps . so behaves like a 2X100 watt amp, even with 88 db eficient speakers you can get the police nokkong at your door.
try to audician one , bet you be amazed.
Listening to this on my Fosi Audio V3 with stock NE5532's in it, they both sound exactly the same...like NE5532's oddly enough! Go figure!
no difference
2604's suck, keep rolling, and use risers for God's sake. I need to start my own channel, it isn't this hard.
Not sure if God cares much about op amp risers? I would subscribe to your channel and gaze in awe at your brilliance!
2 is more better and clear
I personally blind tested many times the NE5532P aginst straight wire (level matched of course), and to my ears it makes absolutely no difference whatsoever to the sound. So, any "OP-amp swap" is going to make either no change, or DEGRADE the sound. The fact that you hear a difference when replacing the NE5532P with a different OP-amp does not mean that you're getting an improvement. Anything sounding different than straight wire is in fact a degradation.
Everything you said is not possible , A OP-Amp cannot be straight wired.
Without a resolving system it's not likely you would hear change anyway.
Второй вариант всё-же чётче!
The indent on top is simply a cap covering an opening to UV wipe the chips 😵💫
No it isn't. Op-Amps are built on fixed dies that cannot be re-programmed. The top indent actually indicates pin 1.
A is superior
di cukil nggae potongan kuku penak lo makde...
The A B comparison is totally pointless.....With YT algorithms and compressions over it....😂😂😂
Yup, as pointless as your comment! 😄😄😄
Despite the compression everything is perfectly audible on RUclips, the main thing is that everything was filmed and recorded correctly before it went on RUclips.
The problem is not youtube but the piece of crap used in the comparison, there are diferences in the two opamps in others set ups.
@@EduardoCruz-ur4wq You cant hear the difference?
@@Crmsnraider wrong, i can, believe it or not it is my work everyday not an hobby.
A are superior.
Noise at B class
no diff
Very funny//Texas audio amp chip has clearer and better treble while BB OPA is better in bass.
I don't think there is a winner...it's not Opa better, sorry Mr. Presenter.😂
You overdrive both of them so hard and sounds AWFUL.
I should have played Mina! 😄
@@UTILITARIANTVUK iF you overdrive and the distortion is unacceptable has no mater if you play Mina or Granganielo or Domingo
@@gamiwv The gain sounds fine on my HiFi & headphones. Maybe your equipment is faulty?
Wasting money
I love your channel, but you shouldnt use the Lords name in vain. Its very offensive.
This .......tries too hard. Nobody listens.
Just for future reference, when you use an ellipsis, it's just 3 dots...
This nerd just wants our attention
Looks like I got it! 😄
OPA2604 might sound "impressive" in some aspects, but it is a colored sound, and has completely unnatural timbre. It's glair-y, and artificial, like most BB amps. Because it's a FET op-amp, it has the precision of a "class D" amp, but that also means it's got it's harshness and sterility as well. 5532 is the most natural sounding op-amp to this day, however the TI version is the worst sounding one. Try an NJM5532DD by JRC/Nisshinbo. It's smoother and even more natural. The 2604's you got looks real. They should have "Thailand" on the bottom.
I don't agree with you, maybe 5532 sounds bad, but 2604 is very musical and not natural as you say. It suits V3 very well, for this little money it's a good step up.
Huh? 5532s sound smeared and lack definition. Especially in the bass
As a former drummer I can attest that the snare sounds paper thin on 5532. It sounds like a snare should on the 2604. Imo. Im not sure about any compromises elswhere but the vocals sounded better too. B over A for me.
@@johnmellor932 Which 5532? If it's the Texas Instruments version, yeah. They are the poorest sounding, and they are "thin" in the midrange. The NJM though is really good, although it can be a bit "muddy". ROHM's BA15532 probably performs the best, I would use that for music production if 5532 is needed. The 2604 is a completely colored op-amp, especially at the bass and mids, and it's timbre is way off from neutrality. I wouldn't use that op-amp for ANY music production. The LM833 is probably the most transparent OP-AMP, meaning it amplifies purely, without any coloration. Different manufacturers also sound different, with the original National Semiconductor ones sounding the best (they are found in some old CD players). Current production best sounding LM833 is made by ST in SOP8 package. The TI version sounds atrocious, similar to their NE5532 - avoid it. The OnSemi version also doesn't sound as good, it's dull and rounded.
When it comes to the 5532, MULTICOMP has started production of their own version (KM5532), which I am going to test soon as well.
@Astralify Well thanks for that. Good to know. Im learning about this stuff as I want to try improve my interface.
A are superior.