Thanks for doing this. Just got one from SantaMe for Christmas. Twas hard acting surprised. The thing that has so far struck me about these, is how light-weight they appear in photos and even videos, but man, you get one in your hands and they are big and heavy but that is of course where their accuracy comes from.
Thanks Joe. Yeah it’s heavy alright. As you say, it helps with stability. If it makes you feel any better, the EQ8-R Pro is much heavier!!!! On the limit of what I can carry.
fantastic, you should be hired by skywatcher, their documentation is so ridiculously complicated to describe the same info that u so simply explain in this video
Thanks, Martin for a very detailed and easy-to-follow Presentation...I am a Newbie...with the EQ-R Pro Mount...and really needed your excellent Presentation...
Thanks for the great feedback Wills. I’m glad you liked the video. Welcome to an incredible hobby that will delight you and frustrate you in equal measure. Just always remember…there is no such thing as a bad imaging session…when it all goes wrong … that’s when you learn the most!! Check out the other videos on my channel. You should find some of them very useful. Clear skies.
Superb Video and super helpful, thanks! Just ordered an EQ6-R myself, really excited for when it arrives. Will most likely have watch this video again onces it's here though haha
As always, thanks for another informative video. I totally recommend a right angle viewer if you're using the polar scope on the mount. It's good to eliminate pain points.
Thank you Martin, nice video. Just got my EQ6R-Pro, so very helpful. I am very interested in your focuser/auto-focus system as I want to upgrade my setup. Any chance you can let us know what is and your thoughts on it? Thanks Steve
Hi Stephen. I’m glad it was useful. My focusing system on the Sky-Watcher Quattro 8CF 8” Newtonian is based on a HiTec Astro DCFocus Controller (now sold as V2 for £79) and a Sky-Watcher Auto Focuser (£57). I then made my own brackets from steel plate, and I used GT2 pulleys and a GT2 belt to connect the motor to the focuser. If you want more details than this, please drop me an email at martinc1966@hotmail.co.uk
@@martinsastrophotography Thanks Martin for such a quick replay, I will check out these and come back to you. Much appreciated. Just need to figure out why PHD cant seem to track thru' EQMOD.... some googling required.. Thanks Steve
Thanks for this video, Martin. I've watched it several times to glean as much as I can. One quick question about the process of setting the home position: Do you need to re-set the graticules to the home position settings every time you set up the mount, or does the position of the graticules remain good as long as they are not moved? Just trying to avoid the step, if possible, of having to level the RA and DEC every time with the bubble level. P.S. I have a digital level that works really great, by the way. Very precise.
Thanks for your feedback. Firstly, it is important to understand that the accuracy of the home position only affects how close your first slew is to a chosen object (e.g. alignment star) and has no effect on polar alignment. In the future you will discover plate solving which eliminates the need for star alignment altogether. I use a spirit level to get the counterweight bar horizontal and then use the graticule to measure 90 degrees to rotate the RA (with clutch open) to get the counterweight bar vertical before locking the clutch. If you have a digital level you could simply place it along the counterweight bar and set it to vertical. Then you wouldn’t need the RA graticule at all. For the Dec part of the home position setting I use a spirit level somewhere suitable, such as on the top of the telescope. Again, I set it to horizontal then use the Dec graticule to rotate 90 degrees with clutch open, then lock the clutch. You can do the same, or similar. Once you discover plate solving you can set the home position by eye because the silver is so fast it find where you are actually pointing after the first slew very quickly, creates an alignment sync point and after that you are good to Goto just about any object, although adding additional sync points improves the accuracy further away from the first sync point. I hope this helps.
@@martinsastrophotography I did watch this and found the info very helpful. I didn’t know if you did a polar alignment specifically for the EQ-R 6 mount or if they were basically all the same. Thanks again!
@@TheSplashingPirate EQ6-R Pro and HEQ5 are the same process. So this video is all you need: Astrophotography Polar Alignment Tutorial ruclips.net/video/AlCq_TDYDGg/видео.html
Thank you for this explanation, very helpful. As an aside would you happen to know the make and model of the case holding the mount? Just what I need. Thanks
The case is from Amazon where the description is "Max MAX540H245S IP67 Rated Waterproof Durable Watertight Equipment Photography with Hard Carry Plastic Transit Case/Pull Handle/Pick and Pluck Cubed foam/Flight Case Tool Box - Nero". Costs £120.
Hi, really useful. I'm looking at getting a new scope for visual and basic astrophotography. I've considered the EQ-6R Pro because I know its very good, but was slightly put off by the weight. How easy is it to move around? It didn't seem too difficult for you in that video, but is it possible for one person to move the mount on its tripod without the counterweights, and then go through the rest of the setup you've demonstrated there? Or do you basically have to set it up and break it down at the beginning and end of each session? I'd only have to move it from my study to my patio, which is about maybe ten to twelve feet. Thanks! Malcolm (Canberra, Australia)
Hi Malcolm. Great to hear from someone down under! It depends how far you need to move it and how awkward it is with the tripod legs crashing into things! Personally I would always break it down each time. It’s safer to carry less weight and be able to fold the tripod legs in when carrying it. If you are considering HEQ5 versus EQ6-R then assuming no budget issues and that you are not limited physically when carrying fairly heavy items, I would go for the EQ6-R Pro to future proof you for later upgrades to heavier telescopes. Both are excellent…it’s a straight choice between how heavy it is versus how much payload it can handle. I hope this helps.
+1 incredibly clear and very well explained. I do have one question: once home position is achieved and you fire up the mount to track a target, do you leave the clutches engaged or should they be released? I am working through EQMOD and ASCOM to connect direct to my PC, but am unsure of the required clutch state. Don't want unnecessary strain on the motors.
Thanks Randy. It is very important that after polar alignment you put the mount in the home position then lock both clutches and power cycle the mount. Then perform a star alignment. You must not unlock the clutches after placing in home position or the Goto function will not work! I hope this helps.
@@martinsastrophotography Helps a lot. Thanks! It does, however, bring up another question. Polar alignment I get, understand it, have done it successfully now, but star alignment is a new one. I have watched a few videos on tracking calibration, which I think is what you mean, but I wanted to be sure that's what you meant before I assume and miss another minor, but significant element.
@@randyhammons9707 No worries. Star alignment is performed after balancing, polar alignment and home positioning on a Goto mount to correct for the mounting orientation of your telescope relative to the mount, and any imperfection in your home position (which means your home position does not need to be super accurate). After entering some required info on your handset, you command a 1-star or 2-star alignment (I recommend you use 1-star at first while you get used to it). You choose a bright star from the list in the handset, that is not too far from the part of the sky you want to image. The mount then attempts to slew to that star. You then adjust the mount pointing using the four arrow buttons on the handset until that star is centred in your imaging camera’s field of view. Then you confirm you have done that and the mount should say “alignment successful”. Once that is done, you can select your target and it should slew to it so that it is bang in the centre of your camera’s field of view. That is the magic of Goto mounts!!! I hope this completes the jigsaw for you! I use a Telrad to help get the alignment star centred in my camera view. It helps a lot if the alignment star is outside the camera field of view after the star alignment slew, which happens a lot with higher focal length telescopes. Check out my video about the Telrad.
@@martinsastrophotography handset - that's the key :). Clearly I'm new to the hobby. So many details, but oh so immersive and enjoyable. Thanks so much for all your responses.
GREAT VIDEO .. albiet. I feel using the spirit level defeats the purpose of using the Bubble on the mount? unless you don't trust it?? I'm a little confused by all this, and still don't know if I need to do it? I was on an Alt/az mount 8SE .. but I have a Starsense on it. and it does my polar alignment etc for me.. now that i'm on a EQ mount.. I"m not sure if I can just use the startsense? or if I need to go thru all this each time?
Thanks. The spirit level is just a way of getting the home position right so that the star alignment slews reasonably close to the chosen star(s). I personally don’t trust any spirit level unless I can prove it is good. Circular bubble levels on the mount are certainly not trustworthy and cannot easily be verified. A flat spirit level is different as you can rotate it 180 degrees on any given surface and the bubble position should behave the same way. If it doesn’t, bin it. I went through three spirit levels before I found one that was actually good.
@@martinsastrophotography Just watched your video again. and WOW.. for whatever reason. everything just finally clicked in, and I understand it LOL.. so excited for morning . to do this !!!
@@compubyte2010 I hope it goes well. Just remember…Astrophotography can be very frustrating sometimes, but there is no such thing as a bad session. If/When you encounter problems and maybe even get no good data at all, that’s when you learn the most!!! Clear skies.
Martin...I definitely will view many more of your Videos as I progress...I do have one Problem...Don't we all....In setting up my EQ6-R Pro...I follow your steps carefully but at about 7:25 on Video...I have tried adjusting the Azimuth Bolts and the Altitude Bolts and my mount does not move...either back and forth or up and down... I have taken the mount down and re-installed it several times Thinking I am installing the mount incorrectly (and perhaps I am but do not realize it)...with no success...plus the gauge is stuck on 50...Which is far from my latitude...Martin...There must be a simple solution but I have not found it...I do not feel there is anything wrong with the Mount...Just the Operator...If you can think of a solution then I am all ears...Plus you mention in the video there is a link for the Azimuth Bolt operation...Would this link show me the way...Thanks for your patience...and for your Videos...I have a feeling you are a Professor in a College or Highschool due to your teaching techniques...My skies do not exist...Cheers
Hi Willis. Welcome to the channel. I am glad you find the videos useful. Sorry to hear you are having trouble. Let’s start with the azimuth bolts. They work by pressing against opposite sides of the vertical ‘North’ peg on the top of the tripod. Therefore, in order for them to work, they must both be straight (not bent), able turn freely in the threaded holes when the mount head is not on the tripod (I.e. the threads must not be seized) and the mount head must then be sitting on top of the tripod in the correct orientation such that the north peg is between the two bolts. Be careful not to overtighten the spreader plate on the tripod or this may restrict azimuth rotation. I do wonder from your description if something is seized on your mount. Is is quite old? When was it last used? Anyway, let’s now consider how the altitude adjustment works… In a similar way to the azimuth adjustment, the altitude adjustment uses two bolts that press on opposite sides of a metal plate, but this time the plate is part of the mount head itself, not part of the tripod. So again, there are a few reasons why it might not move… The bolts must not be bent. They must be able to turn in the threaded holes. The ends of the bolts must press on opposite sides of the plate (take head off the mount, place it on a pillow upside down and look at what is happening). Also, the large rotating azimuth ‘hinge’ that is designed to be able to rotate to different latitudes must not be seized. Once you have read this and considered all the points, please let me know if you have solved the problems.
@@mikeGLR It’s not my mount, but the case my friend Mike (who owns it) uses is from Amazon where the description is "Max MAX540H245S IP67 Rated Waterproof Durable Watertight Equipment Photography with Hard Carry Plastic Transit Case/Pull Handle/Pick and Pluck Cubed foam/Flight Case Tool Box - Nero". It cost £120 last time I looked.
Quick question again I hope don’t drive you crazy. When I have it in home position polar scope doesn’t have zero on top but is shifter to the left like 10 clock Now do I have to fix my polar scope to zero top or i just move the mount until I see zero on top and than point the North Star a given time clock ? Thanks
No problem! It is normal to not have zero at the top in the home position. When you polar align, unlock the RA clutch and rotate the RA until 0 is at the top, then lock the RA clutch. Then adjust azimuth and altitude bolts to put Polaris in the required position (I use the PS Align Pro app to tell me where Polaris should be). Then unlock RA clutch and rotate RA back to home position and lock the RA clutch. Now you are polar aligned and in the home position you can do a Star Alignment (1 star will do). Once complete, you are ready to Goto any object.
@@martinsastrophotography Wow perfect you found my Solution I did it wrong that’s why when I was selecting star Sirius for example scope was a way of Than I had to position Sirius than again object was of as I command go to to m42 Manually I centered and let trucking go on. The problem I did is I did along North Star without Putin zero at top positions I can’t wait to try it again thanks so much The next question I will have is out of this subject but I’m afraid needs a long answer It’s about phd2 I don’t see the pulse on graphics and It guide’s little bit and stops guiding I don’t use st4 cable at all . I connect ok G. Camera and the eq-6R mount than finds stars and locks on green ok but no pulse as I said and doesn’t keep it up. To bad I can’t share pictures on this comment
@@AstroRef68 Did you enable guide corrections in the PHD2 settings? Click on the 🧠 then go to the Guiding tab. Make sure “Enable mount guide output” is ticked.
@@martinsastrophotography On connect equipment showing Eq6 By the mount section showing device hub telescope ( ascom) Do I have to choose something else here because is not showing eq6?
Hi Martin, I was just wondering what kind of adapter you use when powering the EQ6-R Pro? I'm planning on getting one in the near future and just trying to decide if an ordinary 12V 5A adapter will do or if I'm going to need a regulated power supply of some sort? Cheers !
Hi Ryan. I am puzzled by your question. An ordinary 12V 5A adapter is a regulated power supply. It is important not to let your supply voltage drop too much across your wires to the mount, or it will not perform correctly. So a standard 12V 5A adapter and a cable that is as short as practical and with wires that are as thick as practical. Some people run it from 13V but that is harder to organise as 12V is a ‘standard’ voltage. I hope this helps you. Clear skies.
@@martinsastrophotography Ah okay maybe I'm getting a bit confused then. After reading through a few forum posts I was under the impression that those adapters can fluctuate in voltage a bit which can cause problems with slewing etc. and that I'd end up needing one of those lab type power supplies, but like I said I might be a bit confused. I'll go with the adapter then and see how I go. Thanks for your help. Between this video and your videos on plate solving and remote control they've been super helpful so thanks a lot ! Clear skies
@@ryanmarchant9137 Hi Ryan. Glad they are helpful for you. I have run my mount from a standard 12V 5A adapter I bought from Amazon for the last 5 years without any issues.
Hi martin, I have been watching ur videos for a while now and you helped me a lot. I bought my self a telescooe similar to you just a little bigger and I think we have the same cameras and other stuff. My only problem is that I cant achieve focus on my primary scope. All the time I can see nothing bot a black cross with a circle inside of it. Can you please help.
Hi there. I will try to help you. First, please tell me the name and model of your telescope, and what you have in your optical train….camera, spacers etc…
@@martinsastrophotography Hi. So i have skywatcher quattro 250/1000, camera is zwo asi 294 mc pro and when I tried to use it with coma corrector and I just can not achieve focus. I followed it's manuals and I got 55mm back focus. But when I removed the coma corrector and put 2x barlow I actually got perfect pictures.
@@antoniomajstor9388 ok. What do you have between the coma corrector and the camera? Spacers? The back focus should be between the outer glass of the coma corrector and the sensor inside the camera. I achieve good focus on my ASI1600MM Pro with an EFW filter wheel (20mm thick), a 2mm T2 male-male adapter, an 11mm T2 female-female adapter and a 16.5mm male T2 to female M48 adapter between the coma corrector and the camera. The sensor is 6.5mm from the end of the ASI1600 camera body so that’s a total of 6.5+20+2+11+16.5 = 56mm.
@@martinsastrophotography okay. I have 6.5 mm distance from sensor to the end of the camera, 11mm ring that was already mounted to the camera and also 2 rings that are 21mm and 16.5 mm. That is in total 55mm between camera sensor and the coma corrector. But I think the problem is that my coma corrector might be too long? It is around 100 mm long.
Can you leave polar alignment till the last step? Everything else can be done in daylight/warmth, but even with the Polemaster, it’s got to be dark for PA.
It’s not the last step, but you can set everything up, balance it and put it in the home position, then wait for it to get dark. Then polar align and finally do star alignment. Then you are ready to select an object and slew to it. I hope this helps.
Thx a lot with your tutorial. I thought when my EQ6-R is in home position the 0 of the R.A and DEC have to be on the arrow. My EQMOD software was every time saying it was over the limit? While it was still on home position. I wanted to jupiter. Now I only need to find out how to use the Polaris scope, I am still confused does the 0 in the scope have to be up or down?
Hi there. The mount attempts to track the apparent motion of the sky, but this is not perfect. A guide scope and camera are used together with software to correct small errors in the mount’s tracking in order to improve the tracking of the mount still further. I hope this helps.
Hi again If I like up good with north star and I take to the object I know And let it track And I don’t do any star alignment Could tracking be any better if I do 3 star alignment Or star alignment is mainly for got to or finding object more precisely Thanks.
Tracking accuracy is determined by balance and polar alignment only. Star alignment is needed only to enable the Goto system to more accurately find an object you select. (Star alignment can later be replaced by plate solving)
@@martinsastrophotography Last night it my scope gave me you answer as well as I had hard time to do alignment as I gave up alignment I just pointed to m42 and started guiding and was tracking beautifully besides my phd2 was giving me error on my guiding I had to re connect over and over I’m new on that too I don’t have the st4 cable I just use phd2
@@martinsastrophotography I don’t like sky watcher system on alignment I believe celestron has it much simpler as I see on my cpc9.25 Eq6 tell me to choose star as I choose goes by itself a way off from the star needs to go . I don’t option to direct to the star myself and than register after center . I have to learn that as I will go to deeper objects
Hi there. The method I recommend for Polar alignment is described in detail in my video “Astrophotography Polar Alignment Tutorial” ruclips.net/video/AlCq_TDYDGg/видео.html
Hi Neil. The EQ6-R Pro in this video is not mine and I have never used it. I have the HEQ5 and EQ8-R Pro which are both excellent. I have fixed a few issues with the HEQ5 over the years. My friend has had the EQ6R for years with very few issues.
Because moving to the home position is an RA and Dec adjustment, not an elevation (“altitude“) and azimuth adjustment. Polar alignment involves adjusting elevation and azimuth to make your RA axis parallel to the Earth’s rotational axis. So putting your mount at the home position is not a required step in polar alignment. You should do it after polar alignment, to set a starting position for the first slew, so that the first slew gets reasonably close to the desired location. I hope this helps.
Sky-Watcher have included a USB port on newer versions. If the one you have ordered does not have one then you will need to purchase an EQDIR cable to plug into the controller port for remote control using a computer. I would be surprised if a new EQ6-R Pro did not have a USB port….did you order a new one?
The case is from Amazon where the description is "Max MAX540H245S IP67 Rated Waterproof Durable Watertight Equipment Photography with Hard Carry Plastic Transit Case/Pull Handle/Pick and Pluck Cubed foam/Flight Case Tool Box - Nero".
I hope I didn’t offend you. As a surveyor, I noticed that the way you explained setting up and leveling the tripod follows the traditional method, which younger engineers often don’t adhere to in the correct sequence. That’s why I thought you might also be a surveyor.
@@nebulaxya No worries…I thought the question was a bit strange, but now it makes sense. I am an engineer in the space industry, so when I saw someone use this levelling technique on a RUclips video some years back I immediately saw the benefit of doing it this way and have done it like that ever since! Clear skies!!
The exact case is from Amazon: Max MAX540H245S IP67 Rated Waterproof Durable Watertight Equipment Photography with Hard Carry Plastic Transit Case/Pull Handle/Pick and Pluck Cubed foam/Flight Case Tool Box - Nero
My apologies Douglas. I will try to fix that. In the meantime if you go to my channel page and select videos, you should be able to find it there. It’s called “Skywatcher HEQ5 Polar Scope Calibration“. A Google search for that also works. Clear Skies.
@@SmeeUncleJoe Let me know which cable you don’t understand and I will try to help. I need to know how you are using the mount…connected to a PC? Also how old it is…later versions have a direct USB interface so do not need an FTDIR cable.
@@martinsastrophotography I have an iOptron RC8, a William Optics guide scope, an ASI120 guide camera and an ASI533 mono camera all riding on a Skywatcher EQ6 Pro mount. I'm usinga Panasonic Toughbook for computer. I am using NINA and PhD software. I am new to all of this. It's my first leap into imaging.Thanks.
@@SmeeUncleJoe ok. Well as far as cables are concerned you need a 12-13V DC supply to your mount, and you need a USB cable from each of your cameras to your PC. (Do NOT connect the guide camera to the mount!!). Honestly, if you are new to all this I recommend holding off on guiding until you have everything else sorted. Master balance, focus, polar alignment, and even plate solving before you add guiding. Keep exposure time at 60 seconds until you add guiding, then increase it to 180 or even 300 seconds.
@@martinsastrophotography OK great. As an example, not knowing any better, I plugged my guide camera into the mount. I know of course about power. I don't understand all the other cables, some USB others like a telephone jack. I've done everything on your check list except plate solving. I've taken my scope out to dark sky sites without any imaging attachments and did the polar alignment to great precision. I just built a concrete pier and adapter to practice imaging in my back yard without leaving home. I do have some chances at Andromeda etc, between the trees and of course, in Canada, I will get better viewing when the leaves fall. I may be in a real bind as there is a 500 ton black walnut monster blocking Polaris. I was hoping to do a three star alignment, in lieu of Polaris. Once the leaves fall in October, I may get a glimpse of Polaris through my polar scope. I will make a Bahtinov mask exentually also. I have installed PhD and NINA on my toughbook computer and have great access to power.
Thanks but what about home? Home seems to be essential to getting good goto results but I've only seen a few videos on it and everyone seems to have a different opinion about what home is. I sent a scathing email to Sky Watcher over their shi!!y owner's manual. They are typical for manufacturers today that rely on the user community to learn about their product.
Hi Bruce. I will try to explain the Home Position for you. A Goto mount works by storing a database of positions of objects on the celestial sphere (in Right Ascension and Declination) in the handset. It will make RELATIVE movements using stepper motors to reach these objects. In order to do this, it must therefore know where it is pointing to start with so that it can move so many degrees in each axis to get to the destination. Now first let’s be clear, this has nothing to do with polar alignment, which is about ensuring that once you do point at a target the mount will track correctly so that the target stays centred as the Earth rotates. Let’s assume you have done your polar alignment. Next thing to do is then to do what is called star alignment. This provides the mount with one or more reference positions by pointing at known objects on the celestial sphere, so that it can then move to other objects by calculating the relative rotation from those reference objects. For example, if you tell your mount you want to do a 1 star alignment on the bright star Vega then you are using Vega to create a reference point. This is where the Home position comes into play. For the mount to slew to somewhere remotely near Vega it must first know that it is in some starting position. Right Ascension 0h and Dec 90 degrees is this starting position. This is with the telescope pointing towards Polaris with the counterweight bar ‘down’ and in a vertical plane. When you then switch on your mount, it will assume that’s where it is, so you need to put it roughly in that position before you turn it in. This is the home position. Then you switch on and perform a 1-star alignment, choosing a bright star that is in the sky and not too far from your target of interest (Within 40 degrees say). The mount will slew to that star. How well it does that depends on the accuracy of your home position. You then tweak the pointing using the arrows on the hand controller until the star you selected is centered in your telescope field of view. (Can use a Telrad to make this easier!) Press OK and you are star aligned. Now you can use the hand controller to point at anything and it will do a decent job. Please read this through a couple of times and if you still aren’t happy please tell me so I can try to help your understanding further. Martin
Thanks for the video, but good grief, for being 2023 things should be way more plug-and-play, and we have enough technology for it. Sadly, if there is a such P&P mount, companies will ask for our kidneys, liver, and everything else they can put their hands on.
Strangely, I like that it takes a while to set it all up it’s kind of a ritual now. I’m attracted to this hobby because it is difficult and therefore challenging. It makes a good result all the more rewarding. But that’s just me.
Having never used a go-to mount before this video was extremely helpful. Followed the steps and I was taking the grand tour of the sky in no time.
I agree with Astrobua...By far the clearest step by step explanation...Very impressive...We appreciate...
Thank you Willis. I appreciate the feedback. Clear skies.
Thanks for doing this. Just got one from SantaMe for Christmas. Twas hard acting surprised. The thing that has so far struck me about these, is how light-weight they appear in photos and even videos, but man, you get one in your hands and they are big and heavy but that is of course where their accuracy comes from.
Thanks Joe. Yeah it’s heavy alright. As you say, it helps with stability. If it makes you feel any better, the EQ8-R Pro is much heavier!!!! On the limit of what I can carry.
great video! Do you mind sharing some info about the sturdy box that you use to store the head? Thank you!
I bought this eq6 mount and apm 6 inch apo as a package from apm and so far i really like this mount. It handles my scope very well.
This is by far the clearest explanation of the setup I have seen so far!
Thanks a lot!
Thank you Sekar! Clear Skies.
Same Here Astrobua...Very easy to Follow...
Thank you Martin, I learned from you!
fantastic, you should be hired by skywatcher, their documentation is so ridiculously complicated to describe the same info that u so simply explain in this video
Thanks for that....I don't think they even know I exist!
Thanks, Martin for a very detailed and easy-to-follow Presentation...I am a Newbie...with the EQ-R Pro Mount...and really needed your excellent Presentation...
Thanks for the great feedback Wills. I’m glad you liked the video. Welcome to an incredible hobby that will delight you and frustrate you in equal measure. Just always remember…there is no such thing as a bad imaging session…when it all goes wrong … that’s when you learn the most!! Check out the other videos on my channel. You should find some of them very useful. Clear skies.
Your videos are always clear and precise.
Thank you for that. Much appreciated.
EQ6-R Pro..best bang for you buck, almost went for one of these but went with Losmandy GM811G instead. Great Vid as always.
Superb Video and super helpful, thanks!
Just ordered an EQ6-R myself, really excited for when it arrives.
Will most likely have watch this video again onces it's here though haha
Amazing clear and no bs thank you
As always, thanks for another informative video. I totally recommend a right angle viewer if you're using the polar scope on the mount. It's good to eliminate pain points.
Yes, thanks for that. I have tried one and it was great. They are a bit expensive though. Clear Skies!
Hope to see more on your setup.
Nice clear explanation. Many thanks.
Thank you, a very clear explanation to setting up the EQ6,
Great vlog, look forward to using mine when I get it 👍👍👍👍
Clear and most helpful.
Thank you John.
In any case I will be controlling it with my ASIair plus as my HEQ5 mount..
Thank you Martin, nice video. Just got my EQ6R-Pro, so very helpful. I am very interested in your focuser/auto-focus system as I want to upgrade my setup. Any chance you can let us know what is and your thoughts on it? Thanks Steve
Hi Stephen. I’m glad it was useful. My focusing system on the Sky-Watcher Quattro 8CF 8” Newtonian is based on a HiTec Astro DCFocus Controller (now sold as V2 for £79) and a Sky-Watcher Auto Focuser (£57). I then made my own brackets from steel plate, and I used GT2 pulleys and a GT2 belt to connect the motor to the focuser. If you want more details than this, please drop me an email at martinc1966@hotmail.co.uk
@@martinsastrophotography Thanks Martin for such a quick replay, I will check out these and come back to you. Much appreciated. Just need to figure out why PHD cant seem to track thru' EQMOD.... some googling required.. Thanks Steve
Any issues with it?
Excellent quality video
Thank you.
This was very helpful. Thank you.
That’s good to hear, thanks Chris.
Thanks for this video, Martin. I've watched it several times to glean as much as I can. One quick question about the process of setting the home position: Do you need to re-set the graticules to the home position settings every time you set up the mount, or does the position of the graticules remain good as long as they are not moved? Just trying to avoid the step, if possible, of having to level the RA and DEC every time with the bubble level. P.S. I have a digital level that works really great, by the way. Very precise.
Thanks for your feedback. Firstly, it is important to understand that the accuracy of the home position only affects how close your first slew is to a chosen object (e.g. alignment star) and has no effect on polar alignment. In the future you will discover plate solving which eliminates the need for star alignment altogether. I use a spirit level to get the counterweight bar horizontal and then use the graticule to measure 90 degrees to rotate the RA (with clutch open) to get the counterweight bar vertical before locking the clutch. If you have a digital level you could simply place it along the counterweight bar and set it to vertical. Then you wouldn’t need the RA graticule at all. For the Dec part of the home position setting I use a spirit level somewhere suitable, such as on the top of the telescope. Again, I set it to horizontal then use the Dec graticule to rotate 90 degrees with clutch open, then lock the clutch. You can do the same, or similar. Once you discover plate solving you can set the home position by eye because the silver is so fast it find where you are actually pointing after the first slew very quickly, creates an alignment sync point and after that you are good to Goto just about any object, although adding additional sync points improves the accuracy further away from the first sync point. I hope this helps.
@@martinsastrophotography It sure does! Thank you very much!
I can’t seem to find the link for the polar alignment on the EQ-R 6. Thanks for these videos. You’ve helped tremendously!
Is this what you are looking for?Astrophotography Polar Alignment Tutorial
ruclips.net/video/AlCq_TDYDGg/видео.html
@@martinsastrophotography I did watch this and found the info very helpful. I didn’t know if you did a polar alignment specifically for the EQ-R 6 mount or if they were basically all the same. Thanks again!
@@TheSplashingPirate EQ6-R Pro and HEQ5 are the same process. So this video is all you need: Astrophotography Polar Alignment Tutorial
ruclips.net/video/AlCq_TDYDGg/видео.html
Thank you for this explanation, very helpful. As an aside would you happen to know the make and model of the case holding the mount? Just what I need. Thanks
The case is from Amazon where the description is "Max MAX540H245S IP67 Rated Waterproof Durable Watertight Equipment Photography with Hard Carry Plastic Transit Case/Pull Handle/Pick and Pluck Cubed foam/Flight Case Tool Box - Nero". Costs £120.
Many thanks. Appreciate it.
Hi, really useful. I'm looking at getting a new scope for visual and basic astrophotography. I've considered the EQ-6R Pro because I know its very good, but was slightly put off by the weight. How easy is it to move around? It didn't seem too difficult for you in that video, but is it possible for one person to move the mount on its tripod without the counterweights, and then go through the rest of the setup you've demonstrated there? Or do you basically have to set it up and break it down at the beginning and end of each session? I'd only have to move it from my study to my patio, which is about maybe ten to twelve feet. Thanks! Malcolm (Canberra, Australia)
Hi Malcolm. Great to hear from someone down under! It depends how far you need to move it and how awkward it is with the tripod legs crashing into things! Personally I would always break it down each time. It’s safer to carry less weight and be able to fold the tripod legs in when carrying it. If you are considering HEQ5 versus EQ6-R then assuming no budget issues and that you are not limited physically when carrying fairly heavy items, I would go for the EQ6-R Pro to future proof you for later upgrades to heavier telescopes. Both are excellent…it’s a straight choice between how heavy it is versus how much payload it can handle. I hope this helps.
Depending on your strength. I can carry mine with 10" newt on, but its awkward, smaller telescopes no problem.
Very usefull tutorial.
+1 incredibly clear and very well explained. I do have one question: once home position is achieved and you fire up the mount to track a target, do you leave the clutches engaged or should they be released? I am working through EQMOD and ASCOM to connect direct to my PC, but am unsure of the required clutch state. Don't want unnecessary strain on the motors.
Thanks Randy. It is very important that after polar alignment you put the mount in the home position then lock both clutches and power cycle the mount. Then perform a star alignment. You must not unlock the clutches after placing in home position or the Goto function will not work! I hope this helps.
@@martinsastrophotography Helps a lot. Thanks! It does, however, bring up another question. Polar alignment I get, understand it, have done it successfully now, but star alignment is a new one. I have watched a few videos on tracking calibration, which I think is what you mean, but I wanted to be sure that's what you meant before I assume and miss another minor, but significant element.
@@randyhammons9707 No worries. Star alignment is performed after balancing, polar alignment and home positioning on a Goto mount to correct for the mounting orientation of your telescope relative to the mount, and any imperfection in your home position (which means your home position does not need to be super accurate). After entering some required info on your handset, you command a 1-star or 2-star alignment (I recommend you use 1-star at first while you get used to it). You choose a bright star from the list in the handset, that is not too far from the part of the sky you want to image. The mount then attempts to slew to that star. You then adjust the mount pointing using the four arrow buttons on the handset until that star is centred in your imaging camera’s field of view. Then you confirm you have done that and the mount should say “alignment successful”. Once that is done, you can select your target and it should slew to it so that it is bang in the centre of your camera’s field of view. That is the magic of Goto mounts!!! I hope this completes the jigsaw for you! I use a Telrad to help get the alignment star centred in my camera view. It helps a lot if the alignment star is outside the camera field of view after the star alignment slew, which happens a lot with higher focal length telescopes. Check out my video about the Telrad.
@@martinsastrophotography handset - that's the key :). Clearly I'm new to the hobby. So many details, but oh so immersive and enjoyable. Thanks so much for all your responses.
@@randyhammons9707 no problem…that’s what I am about…helping people learn to do Astrophotography. :-)
Well done. Thanks!
GREAT VIDEO .. albiet. I feel using the spirit level defeats the purpose of using the Bubble on the mount? unless you don't trust it??
I'm a little confused by all this, and still don't know if I need to do it? I was on an Alt/az mount 8SE .. but I have a Starsense on it. and it does my polar alignment etc for me.. now that i'm on a EQ mount.. I"m not sure if I can just use the startsense? or if I need to go thru all this each time?
Thanks. The spirit level is just a way of getting the home position right so that the star alignment slews reasonably close to the chosen star(s). I personally don’t trust any spirit level unless I can prove it is good. Circular bubble levels on the mount are certainly not trustworthy and cannot easily be verified. A flat spirit level is different as you can rotate it 180 degrees on any given surface and the bubble position should behave the same way. If it doesn’t, bin it. I went through three spirit levels before I found one that was actually good.
@@martinsastrophotography Just watched your video again. and WOW.. for whatever reason. everything just finally clicked in, and I understand it LOL.. so excited for morning . to do this !!!
@@compubyte2010 I hope it goes well. Just remember…Astrophotography can be very frustrating sometimes, but there is no such thing as a bad session. If/When you encounter problems and maybe even get no good data at all, that’s when you learn the most!!! Clear skies.
@@martinsastrophotography agreed.. My issue is/was with patience .. LOL .. but i'm getting there !!!
@@compubyte2010 If you persevere you are guaranteed to get there! :) Clear skies.
Thanks for the help...
Thank you for this video 😀
Martin...I definitely will view many more of your Videos as I progress...I do have one Problem...Don't we all....In setting up my EQ6-R Pro...I follow your steps carefully but at about 7:25 on Video...I have tried adjusting the Azimuth Bolts and the Altitude Bolts and my mount does not move...either back and forth or up and down... I have taken the mount down and re-installed it several times Thinking I am installing the mount incorrectly (and perhaps I am but do not realize it)...with no success...plus the gauge is stuck on 50...Which is far from my latitude...Martin...There must be a simple solution but I have not found it...I do not feel there is anything wrong with the Mount...Just the Operator...If you can think of a solution then I am all ears...Plus you mention in the video there is a link for the Azimuth Bolt operation...Would this link show me the way...Thanks for your patience...and for your Videos...I have a feeling you are a Professor in a College or Highschool due to your teaching techniques...My skies do not exist...Cheers
Hi Willis. Welcome to the channel. I am glad you find the videos useful. Sorry to hear you are having trouble. Let’s start with the azimuth bolts. They work by pressing against opposite sides of the vertical ‘North’ peg on the top of the tripod. Therefore, in order for them to work, they must both be straight (not bent), able turn freely in the threaded holes when the mount head is not on the tripod (I.e. the threads must not be seized) and the mount head must then be sitting on top of the tripod in the correct orientation such that the north peg is between the two bolts. Be careful not to overtighten the spreader plate on the tripod or this may restrict azimuth rotation. I do wonder from your description if something is seized on your mount. Is is quite old? When was it last used? Anyway, let’s now consider how the altitude adjustment works… In a similar way to the azimuth adjustment, the altitude adjustment uses two bolts that press on opposite sides of a metal plate, but this time the plate is part of the mount head itself, not part of the tripod. So again, there are a few reasons why it might not move… The bolts must not be bent. They must be able to turn in the threaded holes. The ends of the bolts must press on opposite sides of the plate (take head off the mount, place it on a pillow upside down and look at what is happening). Also, the large rotating azimuth ‘hinge’ that is designed to be able to rotate to different latitudes must not be seized. Once you have read this and considered all the points, please let me know if you have solved the problems.
Fantastic 🎉🎉🎉
very nice... thanks for info
When moving the mount from the cased to the tripod (or vice versa) is it best to have the clutches loose or tight?
I recommend the clutches be tight when you move it between the case and the tripod. You are less likely to drop it!!!
Hi Martin, could I ask what case you use to store the head?
Cheers
@@mikeGLR It’s not my mount, but the case my friend Mike (who owns it) uses is from Amazon where the description is "Max MAX540H245S IP67 Rated Waterproof Durable Watertight Equipment Photography with Hard Carry Plastic Transit Case/Pull Handle/Pick and Pluck Cubed foam/Flight Case Tool Box - Nero". It cost £120 last time I looked.
Buenas tardes desde Barcelona 41° Spain. OK. Gracias.
Quick question again I hope don’t drive you crazy.
When I have it in home position polar scope doesn’t have zero on top but is shifter to the left like 10 clock
Now do I have to fix my polar scope to zero top or i just move the mount until I see zero on top and than point the North Star a given time clock ?
Thanks
No problem! It is normal to not have zero at the top in the home position. When you polar align, unlock the RA clutch and rotate the RA until 0 is at the top, then lock the RA clutch. Then adjust azimuth and altitude bolts to put Polaris in the required position (I use the PS Align Pro app to tell me where Polaris should be). Then unlock RA clutch and rotate RA back to home position and lock the RA clutch. Now you are polar aligned and in the home position you can do a Star Alignment (1 star will do). Once complete, you are ready to Goto any object.
@@martinsastrophotography
Wow perfect you found my
Solution
I did it wrong that’s why when I was selecting star Sirius for example scope was a way of
Than I had to position Sirius than again object was of as I command go to to m42
Manually I centered and let trucking go on.
The problem I did is I did along North Star without Putin zero at top positions
I can’t wait to try it again thanks so much
The next question I will have is out of this subject but I’m afraid needs a long answer
It’s about phd2 I don’t see the pulse on graphics and It guide’s little bit and stops guiding I don’t use st4 cable at all .
I connect ok G. Camera and the eq-6R mount than finds stars and locks on green ok but no pulse as I said and doesn’t keep it up.
To bad I can’t share pictures on this comment
@@AstroRef68 Did you enable guide corrections in the PHD2 settings? Click on the 🧠 then go to the Guiding tab. Make sure “Enable mount guide output” is ticked.
@@martinsastrophotography
On connect equipment showing Eq6
By the mount section showing device hub telescope ( ascom)
Do I have to choose something else here because is not showing eq6?
Hi Martin, I was just wondering what kind of adapter you use when powering the EQ6-R Pro? I'm planning on getting one in the near future and just trying to decide if an ordinary 12V 5A adapter will do or if I'm going to need a regulated power supply of some sort? Cheers !
Hi Ryan. I am puzzled by your question. An ordinary 12V 5A adapter is a regulated power supply. It is important not to let your supply voltage drop too much across your wires to the mount, or it will not perform correctly. So a standard 12V 5A adapter and a cable that is as short as practical and with wires that are as thick as practical. Some people run it from 13V but that is harder to organise as 12V is a ‘standard’ voltage. I hope this helps you. Clear skies.
@@martinsastrophotography Ah okay maybe I'm getting a bit confused then. After reading through a few forum posts I was under the impression that those adapters can fluctuate in voltage a bit which can cause problems with slewing etc. and that I'd end up needing one of those lab type power supplies, but like I said I might be a bit confused. I'll go with the adapter then and see how I go. Thanks for your help.
Between this video and your videos on plate solving and remote control they've been super helpful so thanks a lot ! Clear skies
@@ryanmarchant9137 Hi Ryan. Glad they are helpful for you. I have run my mount from a standard 12V 5A adapter I bought from Amazon for the last 5 years without any issues.
I'm sure more qualified people will put me right, but I use Sealy power pack (it also starts your car) and the Celestron power bank.
Good video. What OTA is that, a 8"f4?
Hi Mark. Thanks. It’s the Sky-Watcher Quattro 8CF (8” f4) Newtonian. Clear Skies!
Hi martin, I have been watching ur videos for a while now and you helped me a lot. I bought my self a telescooe similar to you just a little bigger and I think we have the same cameras and other stuff. My only problem is that I cant achieve focus on my primary scope. All the time I can see nothing bot a black cross with a circle inside of it. Can you please help.
Hi there. I will try to help you. First, please tell me the name and model of your telescope, and what you have in your optical train….camera, spacers etc…
@@martinsastrophotography Hi. So i have skywatcher quattro 250/1000, camera is zwo asi 294 mc pro and when I tried to use it with coma corrector and I just can not achieve focus. I followed it's manuals and I got 55mm back focus. But when I removed the coma corrector and put 2x barlow I actually got perfect pictures.
@@antoniomajstor9388 ok. What do you have between the coma corrector and the camera? Spacers? The back focus should be between the outer glass of the coma corrector and the sensor inside the camera. I achieve good focus on my ASI1600MM Pro with an EFW filter wheel (20mm thick), a 2mm T2 male-male adapter, an 11mm T2 female-female adapter and a 16.5mm male T2 to female M48 adapter between the coma corrector and the camera. The sensor is 6.5mm from the end of the ASI1600 camera body so that’s a total of 6.5+20+2+11+16.5 = 56mm.
@@martinsastrophotography okay. I have 6.5 mm distance from sensor to the end of the camera, 11mm ring that was already mounted to the camera and also 2 rings that are 21mm and 16.5 mm. That is in total 55mm between camera sensor and the coma corrector. But I think the problem is that my coma corrector might be too long? It is around 100 mm long.
@@antoniomajstor9388Is the coma corrector designed specifically for your make and model of telescope? Mine fits almost entirely inside the focus tube.
Hi there nice vid, what case did you use ?
Thanks Mitch. It’s from Amazon: MAX540H245S
@@martinsastrophotography thanks 💯
Can you leave polar alignment till the last step?
Everything else can be done in daylight/warmth, but even with the Polemaster, it’s got to be dark for PA.
It’s not the last step, but you can set everything up, balance it and put it in the home position, then wait for it to get dark. Then polar align and finally do star alignment. Then you are ready to select an object and slew to it. I hope this helps.
@@martinsastrophotography it certainly does, Martin! It gets pretty cold up here in Northern Canada after sunset- much appreciated!
@@davidross4036 I lived in Canada for 18 months…near Toronto. You near Ottawa or Quebec City perhaps or out in the wilds?
Thx a lot with your tutorial. I thought when my EQ6-R is in home position the 0 of the R.A and DEC have to be on the arrow. My EQMOD software was every time saying it was over the limit? While it was still on home position. I wanted to jupiter. Now I only need to find out how to use the Polaris scope, I am still confused does the 0 in the scope have to be up or down?
Watch this video and you will learn how to polar align. Astrophotography Polar Alignment Tutorial
ruclips.net/video/AlCq_TDYDGg/видео.html
Does the mount head handle the tracking from the guide scope camera? That has me confused.
Hi there. The mount attempts to track the apparent motion of the sky, but this is not perfect. A guide scope and camera are used together with software to correct small errors in the mount’s tracking in order to improve the tracking of the mount still further. I hope this helps.
Hi again
If I like up good with north star and I take to the object I know
And let it track
And I don’t do any star alignment
Could tracking be any better if I do 3 star alignment
Or star alignment is mainly for got to or finding object more precisely
Thanks.
Tracking accuracy is determined by balance and polar alignment only. Star alignment is needed only to enable the Goto system to more accurately find an object you select. (Star alignment can later be replaced by plate solving)
@@martinsastrophotography
Last night it my scope gave me you answer as well as I had hard time to do alignment as I gave up alignment I just pointed to m42 and started guiding and was tracking beautifully besides my phd2 was giving me error on my guiding
I had to re connect over and over
I’m new on that too
I don’t have the st4 cable I just use phd2
@@martinsastrophotography
I don’t like sky watcher system on alignment I believe celestron has it much simpler as I see on my cpc9.25
Eq6 tell me to choose star as I choose goes by itself a way off from the star needs to go .
I don’t option to direct to the star myself and than register after center .
I have to learn that as I will go to deeper objects
What is the make and model of the case you have the head in? I'm looking for something just like that.
It’s from Amazon: MAX540H245S
@@martinsastrophotography Thank you!
I'm from Malaysia..can you explain how to use ring des and RA
Hi there. The method I recommend for Polar alignment is described in detail in my video “Astrophotography Polar Alignment Tutorial”
ruclips.net/video/AlCq_TDYDGg/видео.html
I don't know how long you have used the EQ6R for, but have had any issues with it?. I've had a few.
Hi Neil. The EQ6-R Pro in this video is not mine and I have never used it. I have the HEQ5 and EQ8-R Pro which are both excellent. I have fixed a few issues with the HEQ5 over the years. My friend has had the EQ6R for years with very few issues.
Why wouldn't you do the home position before polar alignment?
Because moving to the home position is an RA and Dec adjustment, not an elevation (“altitude“) and azimuth adjustment. Polar alignment involves adjusting elevation and azimuth to make your RA axis parallel to the Earth’s rotational axis. So putting your mount at the home position is not a required step in polar alignment. You should do it after polar alignment, to set a starting position for the first slew, so that the first slew gets reasonably close to the desired location. I hope this helps.
where did you get the tube rings from?
Sky-Watcher Telescope Tube Rings for 200mm Newtonian from First Light Optics.
does it come with a polar scope?
Yes, it’s built into the mount.
I just ordered a EQ6-R Pro mount. Does not seem to have a USB port. Why the difference ???
Sky-Watcher have included a USB port on newer versions. If the one you have ordered does not have one then you will need to purchase an EQDIR cable to plug into the controller port for remote control using a computer. I would be surprised if a new EQ6-R Pro did not have a USB port….did you order a new one?
Just ordered one from FLO, delivery in 30 to 40 days...
I suspect it will have a USB port.
Where did that case come from ? I'd like to get one.
The case is from Amazon where the description is "Max MAX540H245S IP67 Rated Waterproof Durable Watertight Equipment Photography with Hard Carry Plastic Transit Case/Pull Handle/Pick and Pluck Cubed foam/Flight Case Tool Box - Nero".
@@martinsastrophotography Thank you Martin. GREAT video as are your other ones.
Nice one. U are a surveyor?
@@nebulaxya No…I am an astrophotographer.
I hope I didn’t offend you. As a surveyor, I noticed that the way you explained setting up and leveling the tripod follows the traditional method, which younger engineers often don’t adhere to in the correct sequence. That’s why I thought you might also be a surveyor.
@@nebulaxya No worries…I thought the question was a bit strange, but now it makes sense. I am an engineer in the space industry, so when I saw someone use this levelling technique on a RUclips video some years back I immediately saw the benefit of doing it this way and have done it like that ever since! Clear skies!!
do you have to do this at 8:35, just got my eq6-r pro and have never done this with a equotiral mount.
Hi Mark. Using the graticule in this way is simply a way to find the home position. If you have another way to achieve this, that’s fine.
@@martinsastrophotography ah ok gotcha, thanks!
where can i get one of those pelican cases?
Have a look at Trifibre. They may well do one large enough.
The exact case is from Amazon: Max MAX540H245S IP67 Rated Waterproof Durable Watertight Equipment Photography with Hard Carry Plastic Transit Case/Pull Handle/Pick and Pluck Cubed foam/Flight Case Tool Box - Nero
@@michaelbatiste6743 Thank you Mike!
@@michaelbatiste6743 thank you so much!
Where did you get the case for the EQ6-R?
It’s a MAX540H245S from Amazon.
@@martinsastrophotography thanks Martin
You didn’t link your polar scope alignment video.
My apologies Douglas. I will try to fix that. In the meantime if you go to my channel page and select videos, you should be able to find it there. It’s called “Skywatcher HEQ5 Polar Scope Calibration“. A Google search for that also works. Clear Skies.
Hi again Douglas. I have now changed the left hand link at the end of the video so it now takes you to the polar scope calibration tutorial.
"any other cables"..... "Etc Etc".I was hoping for some hints on where all those cables get plugged in. :>(
@@SmeeUncleJoe Let me know which cable you don’t understand and I will try to help. I need to know how you are using the mount…connected to a PC? Also how old it is…later versions have a direct USB interface so do not need an FTDIR cable.
@@martinsastrophotography I have an iOptron RC8, a William Optics guide scope, an ASI120 guide camera and an ASI533 mono camera all riding on a Skywatcher EQ6 Pro mount. I'm usinga Panasonic Toughbook for computer. I am using NINA and PhD software. I am new to all of this. It's my first leap into imaging.Thanks.
@@SmeeUncleJoe ok. Well as far as cables are concerned you need a 12-13V DC supply to your mount, and you need a USB cable from each of your cameras to your PC. (Do NOT connect the guide camera to the mount!!). Honestly, if you are new to all this I recommend holding off on guiding until you have everything else sorted. Master balance, focus, polar alignment, and even plate solving before you add guiding. Keep exposure time at 60 seconds until you add guiding, then increase it to 180 or even 300 seconds.
@@martinsastrophotography OK great. As an example, not knowing any better, I plugged my guide camera into the mount. I know of course about power. I don't understand all the other cables, some USB others like a telephone jack.
I've done everything on your check list except plate solving. I've taken my scope out to dark sky sites without any imaging attachments and did the polar alignment to great precision.
I just built a concrete pier and adapter to practice imaging in my back yard without leaving home. I do have some chances at Andromeda etc, between the trees and of course, in Canada, I will get better viewing when the leaves fall. I may be in a real bind as there is a 500 ton black walnut monster blocking Polaris. I was hoping to do a three star alignment, in lieu of Polaris. Once the leaves fall in October, I may get a glimpse of Polaris through my polar scope. I will make a Bahtinov mask exentually also. I have installed PhD and NINA on my toughbook computer and have great access to power.
@@SmeeUncleJoe I use the three point polar alignment plug-in in NINA. It doesn’t need Polaris!!
Excellent!
Thanks but what about home? Home seems to be essential to getting good goto results but I've only seen a few videos on it and everyone seems to have a different opinion about what home is. I sent a scathing email to Sky Watcher over their shi!!y owner's manual. They are typical for manufacturers today that rely on the user community to learn about their product.
Hi Bruce. I will try to explain the Home Position for you. A Goto mount works by storing a database of positions of objects on the celestial sphere (in Right Ascension and Declination) in the handset. It will make RELATIVE movements using stepper motors to reach these objects. In order to do this, it must therefore know where it is pointing to start with so that it can move so many degrees in each axis to get to the destination. Now first let’s be clear, this has nothing to do with polar alignment, which is about ensuring that once you do point at a target the mount will track correctly so that the target stays centred as the Earth rotates. Let’s assume you have done your polar alignment. Next thing to do is then to do what is called star alignment. This provides the mount with one or more reference positions by pointing at known objects on the celestial sphere, so that it can then move to other objects by calculating the relative rotation from those reference objects. For example, if you tell your mount you want to do a 1 star alignment on the bright star Vega then you are using Vega to create a reference point. This is where the Home position comes into play. For the mount to slew to somewhere remotely near Vega it must first know that it is in some starting position. Right Ascension 0h and Dec 90 degrees is this starting position. This is with the telescope pointing towards Polaris with the counterweight bar ‘down’ and in a vertical plane. When you then switch on your mount, it will assume that’s where it is, so you need to put it roughly in that position before you turn it in. This is the home position. Then you switch on and perform a 1-star alignment, choosing a bright star that is in the sky and not too far from your target of interest (Within 40 degrees say). The mount will slew to that star. How well it does that depends on the accuracy of your home position. You then tweak the pointing using the arrows on the hand controller until the star you selected is centered in your telescope field of view. (Can use a Telrad to make this easier!) Press OK and you are star aligned. Now you can use the hand controller to point at anything and it will do a decent job. Please read this through a couple of times and if you still aren’t happy please tell me so I can try to help your understanding further. Martin
Go to 8:16 for info.
Thanks for the video, but good grief, for being 2023 things should be way more plug-and-play, and we have enough technology for it.
Sadly, if there is a such P&P mount, companies will ask for our kidneys, liver, and everything else they can put their hands on.
Strangely, I like that it takes a while to set it all up it’s kind of a ritual now. I’m attracted to this hobby because it is difficult and therefore challenging. It makes a good result all the more rewarding. But that’s just me.