This is truly my dream car. When I tell people what my favorite car is, MGB GT V8 1972-1976. I get weird faces and eyebrows and questions. One of my favorite race cars ever
I've been searching for content like this long ago. Thank you for your awesome work, the data, and the examples you bring to us. Thank you so much again. Keep going!
Just found your channel and I'm really liking what I have seen so far! Really well edited and good knowledgeable information. Thanks for your efforts!👍
Very informative and descriptive videos. There has been much discussion over the years regarding oil pressure for this engine, and one of the things that is noted is the weakness of the distributor to oil pump drive. the engine was designed for around 30psi oil pressure at 2300 rpm which could result in around 10psi at tick over normally. Yours appears to read 45psi at tick over which is extremely high load on the distributor drive and the cam bearings. you might want to periodically check to ensure the is no premature drive wear.
Terrific stuff, a very thorough check over of the main running items of the MG. She is in good hands I'd say. I noted an MGB GT body shell in background.
Thanks mark, well I will try to get it tip top as I believe that there has messing around with it before, parts are all on order Rimmerbros and Moss... Yes MGB GT shell is another project , 1967 ground up restoration ... Have not made video's on it as people/viewers wonder why I do several projects at the same time... but that is me working on many things.... they all come t a good end but it takes a bit of time...
@@D3Sshooter it's actually not my idea, it's a company called frontline here in the uk. the car is called the LE 50 for the 50th anniversary of the mgb. they use a brand new mgb gt shell and new mazda mx5 nc gearbox and engine. the price of the car was £65,000. i calculated i could build it for about £6,000 using a crash damaged mx5 and a second hand mgb gt. but i've gone a bit further and also used the rear mechanicals because i had them. unfortunately the mgb gt was heavily patched with welds upon welds upon welds in other words bodged. so i'm having to replace loads of panels, which is taking time. i will put it up on youtube when finished but don't know when that will be. i have so much other stuff to do. cheers.
@@SuperLeddie , Thanks, I know frontline. In fact I have the suspension and brakes from them. Great project that you have, would not mins to see some of your work
Thank you, I did went to college in Williamsburg Virginia many moons ago... Lost most if not all of my accent. Sorry for the car show . I have been several times in California, great state and country.Always had a weak spot for the USA.
You’re going to need a bigger barn soon! That FI intake is pretty neat looking. If you’re going to use it I would replace all of the injectors. And hopefully they didn’t put a non FI cam in it. It sounds pretty tame though. Best of luck with it.
From memory these old Rover V8's were pushrod valve operation so my first check would be the valve clearances to make sure they are not too tight on those three cylinders with low compression. I have to say that it looks like you have got an absolute bargain and will get many good summer months of motoring out of it with so little work to do. Looking forward to the further episodes.
Thanks, I need to identify the type of engine as I only have been told that it came out of a TR8. But others state that its a Land-rover V8... Can you tell me what would identify the engine , in order to find out what type it is... if it had pushrods , then yes, but I think it has overhead camshafts, need to check on it... any info more then welcome...
@@D3Sshooter Compression ratios were lower for the Land Rover compared to the TR8.It is a shame i did not see this a year ago,as i used to work for a company that build Rover V8's many years ago, (Rovercraft) and indeed fitted quite a few V8's to MGB's.I think from memory the injection plenum fouls the bonnet so many conversions used the fibreglass MGC panels, that were available. One thing i will say is that the universal joint below the manifold could use some heat wrap around it, as they had a nasty habit of boiling the joint when they got hot and rendering it useless after a short while. Many thanks and i hope you still have it!
got to be best to make sure there is nothing going to bite you in the low pressure cylinders. I cannot understand wanting a manual choke. It may be period for the car, but does not make sense to me. I would go back to injection as well. Looks better and should give better performance. Taking off the wheel spaces will mean that the wheels will look a bit odd ie sit too far into the wheel wells. I know you are a talented guy and will figure it all out. Fascinating to watch you do it
Thanks, the cylinders will be checked sometime later as one of the jobs to do... Potentially I get a second engine and recondition it , or I take the head off and see whats wrong. possible a valve problem, or worse. The injection was taken off by the previous owner , I have most of the parts except the ECU... so depending on how it goes I might put it back. As for the wheels, well the spacers are not allowed and the car can't pass CT ( keuring) . The point is , after the CT we all put those back. simple ... its just bureaucracy in this country where nothing is allowed and everything is possible...
your distributor was wobbling. Bent distributor shafts on the earlier rover engines was problem. As you are fitting a new unit that doesn't matter. I love the look of that TR8 injection, it could be used as a basis for making a visually exciting part.
Thanks, yes indeed that seems to be a major issue... I also like the FI , I might have it on my dining table.... after some cleaning hahaha... I don't think I can re-install it as I am missig the ECU
@@D3Sshooter Fitting and programming an aftermarket ECU might be a very research interesting project and youtube series with before and after comparison. Power / fuel economy.
Ha, that is silly bureaucracy and legislation. according to the CT regulations, cars are not to be modified as they will no longer comply with the certificate of conformity. Its what I call BS , but it is what it is.... in fact fitting improved brakes and suspension system is the same issue.... they are really a silly bunch.... but i need to deal with it... Take it off before the inspection and once back home put it back, that is how we all do it.... real silly.
@@D3Sshooter And I thought it is tough here in Germany 😊. Here the car might even be eligible for a historic numberplate. No problems with congestion zones, lower taxes and insurance. It just has to be period correct, i.E. modifications which where done back in the day.
Thanks for the comments, same thing here ... not allowed but we do sometimes as the front license plate is a copy that we have create ourself. The rear plate is issued by teh state
When I check the compression and its a bit low I use to put just a bit oil down the plug hole in that cylinder. And then right away do another test. If the compression rises its leaking in the piston seals. If its the same its leaking out the valves.
Great tip , I typically use a modified sparkplug allowing me to put some air from the compressor into it ( very low pressure) . Then listen to the hiss sound in eh exhaust or carburator.. Of course , the cylinder in question is at TDC / ignition...compression stroke,,,, hiss in the carburator is the valve, hiss in the exhaust valve, no hiss on the valves , then its a piston thingy,
@canuckguy worried Where I come from and I'm sure people call it different things; Compression test is conducted with compression tester. A leak down test is done with a device to pressurised the cylinder, the air supply is then locked off and the time to a preset lower pressure is then timed or you use a leak down tester with two dials and an orifice in between. The test for bubbles in coolant or noises through the exhaust is just a 'leak test' it can be conducted with any device home grown device that can connect an air line to spark plug or glow plug boss.
hahaha, a question that comes back often.... no I did not forget old Rusty and it will be back soon.... I am working many projects ... and a full time professional daytime job. So , I need to share my time , for Old Rusty , I am searching for parts and so far I did not find them. Its a matter of time, but soon OR will be back... That MGB GT shell is indeed a groud up project...
Very interesting video - I have an rv8 myself with 3.9 injection. I have the same issue where the exhaust manifold touches the steering column - you mentioned that you wanted to change the engine mounts - are you planning to post a video on this repair still ?
Hi Philip, yes I will post that video as soon as i get to it. Have some other urgent thingies to do. The part I am goin to use is a stronger engine support that is 1cm thinner on the right hand side ( in my case) so that way the engine is slighty tilted and enough space between the steering column and the exhaust.
I was always taught to check manifold vacuum. Will tell you a lot more than vacuum above the throttle plate will. BTW, that is not a micrometer. It is a dial indicator. At least in the US....
Yep, you are right John.... I screwed up with the micrometer... its indeed a dial indicator,,,, apologies... The main reason to check the vacuum was to check the advance to the distributor, as that one is not giving the needed advance....
Hi. I'm enjoying following your projects. (By the way, I also have an "Old Rusty" - you can see it is some of my videos). I'm not sure, but the distributor might need manifold vacuum, I'm thinking this is a conventional V8 and that's the norm. I look forward to seeing how things progress. Maybe someone else can comment re the vacuum hookup. I am also eagerly awaiting progress on your "Old Rusty". Mart.
Hi Mart, yep old rusty is certainly not written of , it will be back soon. as to the V8, its a conversion that I did not do... so I am looking at all possible options on how to make sure its corrected. I am looking at the advance curve of a 3.9L Rover and will see what this can relate to... it seems that as per Edelbrock its the right vacuum port on the carb that is used... yet I don't know if it exactly does what I expect from the advance... its always a play between the distributor advance system and the carburator port... I guess it will become trial and error.. that is what happens with conversions if not done by myself....
Good job on the car and video, but I was scared to watch when you were had your head under the front guard and rocking the suspension with the car only on a hydraulic jack. Maybe there was an axle stand that wasn't shown? I know it's very likely safe to do without an axle stand, but it just seems wrong.
HI STEVE , I JUST DONT KNOW IF INDEED YOUR ARE STEVE OR NOT JUST HERE FROM SOME COMMENTORS. FIRST LET ME ASK YOU THIS WHAT NATIONALITY ARE YOU. I AM ASKING THIS BECAUSE I USE TO LISTEN AND UNDERSTAND MANY DIFFERENT PEOPLE ON YOU TUBE BUT SOMETIMES I STRUGGLE TO HEAR WAHT THEY SAY. I THINK THIS IS BECAUSE WE ARE OF DIFFERENT NATIONALITY BUT AS FOR YOU I HEAR YOU LOUD AND CLEAR. YOU SPEAK SLOW AND YOUR VOICE IS CLEAR. THANKS FOR THAT. AND YOU ARE VERY GOOD IN EXPLAINING A THING. SOMETIMES I FIND SOME VIDEOS ON YOU TUBE AND TRY TO GIVE MYSELF A TIME TO UNDERSTAND BUT SOMEWHERE I JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND. BUT AFTER WATCHING YOURS I DON'T EVEN FEEL TO ASK A QUASTION. ALL WHAT I CAN DO IS THUMP UP WITH NO COMMENT. SO CAN YOU PLEASE MAKE US A VIDEO ON WHERE CAN ONE FIND A CORRECT WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A CAR AND HOW TO USE IT ON A CAR TO TROUBLESHOOT A FAULT. I KNOW THERE ARE PEOPLE WHO HAVE THAT VIDEOS ON YOU TUBE BUT I JUST WANT IT BEING EXPLAINED BY YOU. I KNOW AFTERWARDS WE WILL UNDERSTAND IT FOR THE REST OF OUR LIVE. PLEASE DO US THAT FAVOUR IF YOU KNOW AUTO ELECTRY. BUT I ONCE SAW YOU HAVING MULTIMETER .LOL . LOOKING FORWARD FOR THAT
Thanks for the comments, I am flemish. Now , you are asking for a wiring diagram for a car . That is not difficult at all, the only thing is for what car, as there are so many variants and systems. Think of lights, heathing, ignition, ABS, ancillaries, ECU's etc.... So to make one video on the cabling of a car is very open questions. Maybe you can explain it a bit what you would like
@@D3Sshooter ok . first i would say a car is a machine meant to move someone from a to b. so it might be a pleasure to start with the engine. because cars this days have a lot of sensors but i know there are some sensors important for the starting and going of the car than others. i know you can explain it better than anyone else. let me tell you this .yersterday i opened the bonnet of my vw polo comfortline. it is very electronic. it does not have a problem at all buut just wanted to see things. the car was off. i put my multimeter on continuity, and put black probe on negative and red probe on one wire to the injectors. the result was "beep beeeep" to show continuity. and that to me meant it was negative wire of my injector. i then changed my red probe from that wire to the next wire on that verysame injector . the result was again "beep beeep".so i started having problem of knowing which is positive and which is negative. bcos it can't beep on both wires. so that is why i ask you to make us know. i thought i know but know realise i a behind. if you can show us about crank sensor . cam sensor; knock sensor their primary funtion .how are they connected in a car for it to can move.
I like to improve it and correct it. This one is a keeper. In most cases I keep the cars. Potentially some historical racing as soon as I am retired... but that seems like a long time... retiring means stop my daytime profession, and start doing other more fun things.... txs for asking
If it's a 3.9 litre Rover V8 it will have come from either a Range Rover or a Discovery. The later 4.0 engine used a distributor-less fully management system. As for why it's been converted to carburettor - the factory EFI systems really aren't very good until you get to the later GEMS setups. This would have originally had the 14CUX setup which is OK, but certain parts are now getting difficult to obtain. It's also difficult to put in an exact tune without someone with the ability to flash a new chip - it's usually easier and cheaper to bolt on a brand new four-barrel carburettor which often proves to be more reliable and tuneable than the factory system. The distributor you have is perfectly useable with a carburettor - be very wary of modern reproductions as they're often poor quality, have a very weak advance curve dialled in and the ignition amplifiers are pretty crappy. If you're looking for an upgrade, something like a Mallory or an HEI style dizzy might not be a bad shout. Great looking MGB GT! I'm hoping to build something similar myself!
@@D3Sshooter No link or picture but I can give more info. Mine is rhd. When viewed from the front the engine runs clockwise thus the engine reaction torque moves the anti clockwise. The contact was between the exhaust manifold and the steering column shaft. If it's touching you should be able to hear it with the front end jacked off the ground when you move the steering wheel. If it's only touching when the engine moves on acceleration you may be able to feel the steering go stiff under hard acceleration. The touch on acceleration would only happen on a rhd car.
@@jameseastwood4984 , I believe they only made the V8 RHD, the LHD are typical conversions. Mine makes the same sound and indeed when the engine moves a bit, I fixed it with some higher silent blocks and stiffer.. that just works fine... I hated that sound when it touched..
#6 cylinder is just making enough compression for the plug to fire. While the plugs are out I would do a leak down test to see if you have a valve issue or a piston issue.
Thought so, too. But on the other hand, those engines aren't hard to get. The conversion is done and it's most probably an engine out of a Range Rover. Oops, it's from a TR8! But the Range Rover should do fine.
Indeed, that is work that I will do later. This video was an overall assessment of all the things that could or are wrong. And this is certainly one topic that needs further investigation.
TXS, wellI was told TR-8, but It might as well be a Range Rover...anybody who can tell me ? for me it is all hearsay at this time ( from the previous owner)
I think this engine comes from a Range Rover aswell, maybe a 3.9, 4.0 or even a 4.6 liter. Be careful if it's a 4.6 Liter. To gain more cylindervolume Rover extended the borediameter of the cylinders which led to too thin cylinderwalls between eachother and they started to crack in between 2 cylinders. No such issuses with the 3.9, 4.0.
Thanks, good points. And as this was done before I got the car , i need to rely on what they told me.... the story was that the V8 is a 3.9L and comes out of a Triumph TR-8... Original injection and modified to carburetor. it drives well , and the engine does a good job... never the less , I will need to find the engine number and work out what the engine really is.... I did notice that the edelbrock inlet manifold states 3.5 perfromance.... so another area of uncertainty. But we will find out.....
Hello @@D3Sshooter . Thanks for the post. I have a similar setup on my MGB with the Edelbrock Performer 3.51 manifold and Weber 500 carburettor. I Believe this is a common setup as it is easy to adapt to any Rover 8 from 3.5 to 4.6. Do you know what camshaft sits in the V ?
@@christophehardy9209 , I have no idea and will need to check it as soon as i get to check the low pressure cylinder 6 and 8. I expect the standard for the injection model as this was modified by the previous owner
@@@D3Sshooter I think that the stock camshaft will give good power up to 5000rpm. My engine is a 3.5 and it pulls strongly to 6500rpm with a Piper 285 camshaft. How the engine performs over 5k will tell you if it has a performance cam. As you noted that the steering joint fouls the body: There should be a 5mm spacer between engine and engine mount on the steering side. This rocks the engine a little to the side to clear the steering column. Hope this helps.
Well they did, i was told that it was to hard to keep the Injection adjusted properly and that it was more reliant with a Carburettor.... I agree with you, and if I also had the ECU with it I would possible put it all back to injection. But maybe there are people and viewers out there that have compelling reasons why its done.... maybe someone brings it up...?
@@D3SshooterSounds like the previous owner lived next to the excuse factory. Laziness or extreme lack of caring is usually what gets something converted like that. (that missing choke cable is a good clue) Hope you can get all the bits to make it fuel injected again.
@@D3Sshooter the rover v8 injection is pretty easy to maintain - there is a diagnostic software Rovergauge which can be connected via an OBD port. Anyway, after nearly 30 years the electronics / ECU van be hard to replace and the carburetted version makes a much nicer induction sound than the injected one.
Great looking car. Thanks for sharing your experience with it. It seems to have the Costello Frontline front suspension. www.frontlinedevelopments.com/part/mgb-front-suspension-kit/ They also make a 5-link rear kit that replaces the leaf springs.
Thanks for the comments, the engine is also a UK made type. The idea behind this car is to have it like the V8 that were fitted before and made ready to race. So its not a purist model
Yes changing the distributor and some cheap components is a good idea some information may be of interest thanks for sharing www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=947&start= 👍🇦🇺
Why have a choke on a sports car like carburettor, those have a special gift and do always start, even when it's -15° C...... Those stupid Edelbrock engineers, can't even build a carburettor right...
This is truly my dream car. When I tell people what my favorite car is, MGB GT V8 1972-1976. I get weird faces and eyebrows and questions. One of my favorite race cars ever
Thanks for the comments , its a nicecar
Thanks for these videos.... all beautifully explained and professionally made. Looking forward to watching much more of your content
I've been searching for content like this long ago. Thank you for your awesome work, the data, and the examples you bring to us. Thank you so much again. Keep going!
Glad it was helpful!
Really nice and useful video, I recently bought myself a factory V8! So this video helps me a lot. Keep up the good work and video's ;)!
Thank you for the comments, congrats, and maybe we meet with the cars one day
Superb video content and information. Presentation skills perfect! Thank you! Greetings from England!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just found your channel and I'm really liking what I have seen so far! Really well edited and good knowledgeable information. Thanks for your efforts!👍
Awesome, thank you!
Very informative and descriptive videos.
There has been much discussion over the years regarding oil pressure for this engine, and one of the things that is noted is the weakness of the distributor to oil pump drive. the engine was designed for around 30psi oil pressure at 2300 rpm which could result in around 10psi at tick over normally. Yours appears to read 45psi at tick over which is extremely high load on the distributor drive and the cam bearings. you might want to periodically check to ensure the is no premature drive wear.
Correct and Thanks for the comments
Might have the longer gears(later used on the sd1) and spacer, resulting in higher pressure
when i watch your work , meticulous comes to mind...
Thank you for the comment
Awesome video my friend 👍🏾
TXS
Terrific stuff, a very thorough check over of the main running items of the MG. She is in good hands I'd say. I noted an MGB GT body shell in background.
Thanks mark, well I will try to get it tip top as I believe that there has messing around with it before, parts are all on order Rimmerbros and Moss... Yes MGB GT shell is another project , 1967 ground up restoration ... Have not made video's on it as people/viewers wonder why I do several projects at the same time... but that is me working on many things.... they all come t a good end but it takes a bit of time...
nice mgb gt, love the colour. i am doing one at the moment with the 2.0 litre mx5 engine and 6 speed gearbox, also with the rear suspension and lsd.
Really, that is a great approach .. would not mind to see it Thanks for the comments
@@D3Sshooter it's actually not my idea, it's a company called frontline here in the uk. the car is called the LE 50 for the 50th anniversary of the mgb. they use a brand new mgb gt shell and new mazda mx5 nc gearbox and engine. the price of the car was £65,000. i calculated i could build it for about £6,000 using a crash damaged mx5 and a second hand mgb gt. but i've gone a bit further and also used the rear mechanicals because i had them. unfortunately the mgb gt was heavily patched with welds upon welds upon welds in other words bodged. so i'm having to replace loads of panels, which is taking time. i will put it up on youtube when finished but don't know when that will be. i have so much other stuff to do. cheers.
@@SuperLeddie , Thanks, I know frontline. In fact I have the suspension and brakes from them. Great project that you have, would not mins to see some of your work
Your English is amazing for being in Belgium. I was hoping this car was in California so I could take a look at it at a car show! LOL
Thank you, I did went to college in Williamsburg Virginia many moons ago... Lost most if not all of my accent. Sorry for the car show . I have been several times in California, great state and country.Always had a weak spot for the USA.
You’re going to need a bigger barn soon! That FI intake is pretty neat looking. If you’re going to use it I would replace all of the injectors. And hopefully they didn’t put a non FI cam in it. It sounds pretty tame though. Best of luck with it.
From memory these old Rover V8's were pushrod valve operation so my first check would be the valve clearances to make sure they are not too tight on those three cylinders with low compression. I have to say that it looks like you have got an absolute bargain and will get many good summer months of motoring out of it with so little work to do. Looking forward to the further episodes.
Thanks, I need to identify the type of engine as I only have been told that it came out of a TR8. But others state that its a Land-rover V8... Can you tell me what would identify the engine , in order to find out what type it is... if it had pushrods , then yes, but I think it has overhead camshafts, need to check on it... any info more then welcome...
@@D3Sshooter this should help - whole section on the V8 engine - definitely pushrod. rimmerbros.com/Images/PDFs/TR7_8.pdf
@@D3Sshooter Compression ratios were lower for the Land Rover compared to the TR8.It is a shame i did not see this a year ago,as i used to work for a company that build Rover V8's many years ago, (Rovercraft) and indeed fitted quite a few V8's to MGB's.I think from memory the injection plenum fouls the bonnet so many conversions used the fibreglass MGC panels, that were available.
One thing i will say is that the universal joint below the manifold could use some heat wrap around it, as they had a nasty habit of boiling the joint when they got hot and rendering it useless after a short while. Many thanks and i hope you still have it!
It's got hydraulic lifters
Doesn't the 4 barrel have an accelerator pump so unless it's very cold, then you can just pump the throttle a few times.
got to be best to make sure there is nothing going to bite you in the low pressure cylinders. I cannot understand wanting a manual choke. It may be period for the car, but does not make sense to me. I would go back to injection as well. Looks better and should give better performance. Taking off the wheel spaces will mean that the wheels will look a bit odd ie sit too far into the wheel wells. I know you are a talented guy and will figure it all out. Fascinating to watch you do it
Thanks, the cylinders will be checked sometime later as one of the jobs to do... Potentially I get a second engine and recondition it , or I take the head off and see whats wrong. possible a valve problem, or worse. The injection was taken off by the previous owner , I have most of the parts except the ECU... so depending on how it goes I might put it back. As for the wheels, well the spacers are not allowed and the car can't pass CT ( keuring) . The point is , after the CT we all put those back. simple ... its just bureaucracy in this country where nothing is allowed and everything is possible...
your distributor was wobbling. Bent distributor shafts on the earlier rover engines was problem. As you are fitting a new unit that doesn't matter. I love the look of that TR8 injection, it could be used as a basis for making a visually exciting part.
Thanks, yes indeed that seems to be a major issue... I also like the FI , I might have it on my dining table.... after some cleaning hahaha... I don't think I can re-install it as I am missig the ECU
@@D3Sshooter Fitting and programming an aftermarket ECU might be a very research interesting project and youtube series with before and after comparison. Power / fuel economy.
@@paulclieu6384 , indeed but with this type of engine not that hard to find ... I hope
Nice thorough inspection of the car. It is definitely in the right hands to be taken care of. Why are wheel spacer illegal in Belgium?
Ha, that is silly bureaucracy and legislation. according to the CT regulations, cars are not to be modified as they will no longer comply with the certificate of conformity. Its what I call BS , but it is what it is.... in fact fitting improved brakes and suspension system is the same issue.... they are really a silly bunch.... but i need to deal with it... Take it off before the inspection and once back home put it back, that is how we all do it.... real silly.
@@D3Sshooter And I thought it is tough here in Germany 😊. Here the car might even be eligible for a historic numberplate. No problems with congestion zones, lower taxes and insurance. It just has to be period correct, i.E. modifications which where done back in the day.
@@VolkerHett Lucky you, here its a bit different and yes we get oldtimer plates. but modifications are always a problems
D3Sshooter so it’s ok to fit a V8 engine, change the suspension, change the brakes, but not fit wheel spacers ...
*Je n'ai jamais vu une plaque d'immatriculation aussi minuscule ! En FRANCE ça ne passerai pas ! ^^*
Thanks for the comments, same thing here ... not allowed but we do sometimes as the front license plate is a copy that we have create ourself. The rear plate is issued by teh state
When I check the compression and its a bit low I use to put just a bit oil down the plug hole in that cylinder. And then right away do another test. If the compression rises its leaking in the piston seals. If its the same its leaking out the valves.
Great tip , I typically use a modified sparkplug allowing me to put some air from the compressor into it ( very low pressure) . Then listen to the hiss sound in eh exhaust or carburator.. Of course , the cylinder in question is at TDC / ignition...compression stroke,,,, hiss in the carburator is the valve, hiss in the exhaust valve, no hiss on the valves , then its a piston thingy,
I think a leak down test is usually a leak down of pressure measured over time. Personally I find compression testing is never that straight forward.
@canuckguy worried Where I come from and I'm sure people call it different things; Compression test is conducted with compression tester. A leak down test is done with a device to pressurised the cylinder, the air supply is then locked off and the time to a preset lower pressure is then timed or you use a leak down tester with two dials and an orifice in between. The test for bubbles in coolant or noises through the exhaust is just a 'leak test' it can be conducted with any device home grown device that can connect an air line to spark plug or glow plug boss.
Looks like a good project, I see a white one in the background, another project car? Have you forgotten about old crusty?
hahaha, a question that comes back often.... no I did not forget old Rusty and it will be back soon.... I am working many projects ... and a full time professional daytime job. So , I need to share my time , for Old Rusty , I am searching for parts and so far I did not find them. Its a matter of time, but soon OR will be back... That MGB GT shell is indeed a groud up project...
@@D3Sshooter enjoy them all
@@estpst TXS
Very thorough inspection, nice job. Why did they use the spacers on the wheels? for looks or mechanical? thanks for sharing the video.
Its a bit both looks and stability
Very interesting video - I have an rv8 myself with 3.9 injection.
I have the same issue where the exhaust manifold touches the steering column - you mentioned that you wanted to change the engine mounts - are you planning to post a video on this repair still ?
Hi Philip, yes I will post that video as soon as i get to it. Have some other urgent thingies to do. The part I am goin to use is a stronger engine support that is 1cm thinner on the right hand side ( in my case) so that way the engine is slighty tilted and enough space between the steering column and the exhaust.
@@D3Sshooter great - look froward to seeing it so that I can learn and apply the same techniques
is the shell a gan 4 or early gan 3 type
Not sure, how can I tell ? Can you advice
the id tag under bonnet the 70s shell says gan 4 the 60s shell has gan3 on the tag
I was always taught to check manifold vacuum. Will tell you a lot more than vacuum above the throttle plate will. BTW, that is not a micrometer. It is a dial indicator. At least in the US....
Yep, you are right John.... I screwed up with the micrometer... its indeed a dial indicator,,,, apologies... The main reason to check the vacuum was to check the advance to the distributor, as that one is not giving the needed advance....
Hi. I'm enjoying following your projects. (By the way, I also have an "Old Rusty" - you can see it is some of my videos). I'm not sure, but the distributor might need manifold vacuum, I'm thinking this is a conventional V8 and that's the norm. I look forward to seeing how things progress. Maybe someone else can comment re the vacuum hookup. I am also eagerly awaiting progress on your "Old Rusty". Mart.
Hi Mart, yep old rusty is certainly not written of , it will be back soon. as to the V8, its a conversion that I did not do... so I am looking at all possible options on how to make sure its corrected. I am looking at the advance curve of a 3.9L Rover and will see what this can relate to... it seems that as per Edelbrock its the right vacuum port on the carb that is used... yet I don't know if it exactly does what I expect from the advance... its always a play between the distributor advance system and the carburator port... I guess it will become trial and error.. that is what happens with conversions if not done by myself....
Good job on the car and video, but I was scared to watch when you were had your head under the front guard and rocking the suspension with the car only on a hydraulic jack. Maybe there was an axle stand that wasn't shown? I know it's very likely safe to do without an axle stand, but it just seems wrong.
Thanks for the comments, yes there was additional out of sight support
My V8 Exhaust cleared the column but I found it would press on column as the engine twisted with load.
That is indeed often the issue, the best approach is to get stiffer silent blocks to support the engine. That is what I am going to do
@@D3Sshooter can you please post a video on that one ?
HI STEVE , I JUST DONT KNOW IF INDEED YOUR ARE STEVE OR NOT JUST HERE FROM SOME COMMENTORS. FIRST LET ME ASK YOU THIS WHAT NATIONALITY ARE YOU. I AM ASKING THIS BECAUSE I USE TO LISTEN AND UNDERSTAND MANY DIFFERENT PEOPLE ON YOU TUBE BUT SOMETIMES I STRUGGLE TO HEAR WAHT THEY SAY. I THINK THIS IS BECAUSE WE ARE OF DIFFERENT NATIONALITY BUT AS FOR YOU I HEAR YOU LOUD AND CLEAR. YOU SPEAK SLOW AND YOUR VOICE IS CLEAR. THANKS FOR THAT. AND YOU ARE VERY GOOD IN EXPLAINING A THING. SOMETIMES I FIND SOME VIDEOS ON YOU TUBE AND TRY TO GIVE MYSELF A TIME TO UNDERSTAND BUT SOMEWHERE I JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND. BUT AFTER WATCHING YOURS I DON'T EVEN FEEL TO ASK A QUASTION. ALL WHAT I CAN DO IS THUMP UP WITH NO COMMENT.
SO CAN YOU PLEASE MAKE US A VIDEO ON WHERE CAN ONE FIND A CORRECT WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A CAR AND HOW TO USE IT ON A CAR TO TROUBLESHOOT A FAULT. I KNOW THERE ARE PEOPLE WHO HAVE THAT VIDEOS ON YOU TUBE BUT I JUST WANT IT BEING EXPLAINED BY YOU. I KNOW AFTERWARDS WE WILL UNDERSTAND IT FOR THE REST OF OUR LIVE. PLEASE DO US THAT FAVOUR IF YOU KNOW AUTO ELECTRY. BUT I ONCE SAW YOU HAVING MULTIMETER .LOL . LOOKING FORWARD FOR THAT
Thanks for the comments, I am flemish. Now , you are asking for a wiring diagram for a car . That is not difficult at all, the only thing is for what car, as there are so many variants and systems. Think of lights, heathing, ignition, ABS, ancillaries, ECU's etc.... So to make one video on the cabling of a car is very open questions. Maybe you can explain it a bit what you would like
@@D3Sshooter ok . first i would say a car is a machine meant to move someone from a to b. so it might be a pleasure to start with the engine. because cars this days have a lot of sensors but i know there are some sensors important for the starting and going of the car than others. i know you can explain it better than anyone else.
let me tell you this .yersterday i opened the bonnet of my vw polo comfortline. it is very electronic. it does not have a problem at all buut just wanted to see things. the car was off. i put my multimeter on continuity, and put black probe on negative and red probe on one wire to the injectors. the result was "beep beeeep" to show continuity. and that to me meant it was negative wire of my injector. i then changed my red probe from that wire to the next wire on that verysame injector . the result was again "beep beeep".so i started having problem of knowing which is positive and which is negative. bcos it can't beep on both wires.
so that is why i ask you to make us know. i thought i know but know realise i a behind. if you can show us about crank sensor . cam sensor; knock sensor their primary funtion .how are they connected in a car for it to can move.
Hey ik woon in Antwerpen en heb een Mgb Gt V8, doe jij ook onderhoud van deze wagens ? En zo ja waar zit jij ergens ? Grts André
Beste, spijtig maar ik doe enkel mijn eigen wagens.... heb eigenlijk heel weinig tijd en geen HR voor auto's... Dus sorry Andre...
D3Sshooter geen probleem, zal toch blijven genieten van je postings .... en wie weet ooit komen we elkaar wel eens tegen, kleine wereld toch 😎🤓🤣 Grts
What's your goal with this vehicle? Are you planning on improving it to sell it on, keep it as an investment, racing? Thanks!
I like to improve it and correct it. This one is a keeper. In most cases I keep the cars. Potentially some historical racing as soon as I am retired... but that seems like a long time... retiring means stop my daytime profession, and start doing other more fun things.... txs for asking
If it's a 3.9 litre Rover V8 it will have come from either a Range Rover or a Discovery. The later 4.0 engine used a distributor-less fully management system. As for why it's been converted to carburettor - the factory EFI systems really aren't very good until you get to the later GEMS setups. This would have originally had the 14CUX setup which is OK, but certain parts are now getting difficult to obtain. It's also difficult to put in an exact tune without someone with the ability to flash a new chip - it's usually easier and cheaper to bolt on a brand new four-barrel carburettor which often proves to be more reliable and tuneable than the factory system.
The distributor you have is perfectly useable with a carburettor - be very wary of modern reproductions as they're often poor quality, have a very weak advance curve dialled in and the ignition amplifiers are pretty crappy. If you're looking for an upgrade, something like a Mallory or an HEI style dizzy might not be a bad shout.
Great looking MGB GT! I'm hoping to build something similar myself!
voltagemaxx , thanks so much. Great info that i can use.
Self learning EFI kits are getting v popular in the US now. They use a 4 barrel throttle body in replacement of the carb. No manifold change. V neat.
@@jameseastwood4984 , thanks I need to have a check on this.. would you have a link or recommendation ? TXS
@@D3Sshooter No link or picture but I can give more info. Mine is rhd. When viewed from the front the engine runs clockwise thus the engine reaction torque moves the anti clockwise. The contact was between the exhaust manifold and the steering column shaft. If it's touching you should be able to hear it with the front end jacked off the ground when you move the steering wheel. If it's only touching when the engine moves on acceleration you may be able to feel the steering go stiff under hard acceleration. The touch on acceleration would only happen on a rhd car.
@@jameseastwood4984 , I believe they only made the V8 RHD, the LHD are typical conversions. Mine makes the same sound and indeed when the engine moves a bit, I fixed it with some higher silent blocks and stiffer.. that just works fine... I hated that sound when it touched..
beautiful, adorable ! ω
#6 cylinder is just making enough compression for the plug to fire. While the plugs are out I would do a leak down test to see if you have a valve issue or a piston issue.
100 psi is definitely lower than I would want to see.
Thought so, too. But on the other hand, those engines aren't hard to get. The conversion is done and it's most probably an engine out of a Range Rover.
Oops, it's from a TR8! But the Range Rover should do fine.
Indeed, that is work that I will do later. This video was an overall assessment of all the things that could or are wrong. And this is certainly one topic that needs further investigation.
yes , it seems that I am up to some work
TXS, wellI was told TR-8, but It might as well be a Range Rover...anybody who can tell me ? for me it is all hearsay at this time ( from the previous owner)
Who is the manufacture of the V8 Engine in the MGB GT? Oh and it seems like a nice car Steve! ...Newk from Kentucky USA
It's a ROVER motor which is a copy of a mid '60 BUICK design
@@markgriffin4888 Not a copy, they bought that design from Buick and improved on it until around 2002.
@@VolkerHett Australia had a 4:4 litre in Leyland's P76 in the mid '70s that was increased in size from the Buick 3:6 so Rover had had it before then
@@markgriffin4888 Late 60s if my memory serves me.
@@markgriffin4888 Oh, and the Rover V8 was in the TVR Griffin, too :😊
I think this engine comes from a Range Rover aswell, maybe a 3.9, 4.0 or even a 4.6 liter. Be careful if it's a 4.6 Liter. To gain more cylindervolume Rover extended the borediameter of the cylinders which led to too thin cylinderwalls between eachother and they started to crack in between 2 cylinders. No such issuses with the 3.9, 4.0.
Thanks, good points. And as this was done before I got the car , i need to rely on what they told me.... the story was that the V8 is a 3.9L and comes out of a Triumph TR-8... Original injection and modified to carburetor. it drives well , and the engine does a good job... never the less , I will need to find the engine number and work out what the engine really is.... I did notice that the edelbrock inlet manifold states 3.5 perfromance.... so another area of uncertainty. But we will find out.....
Hello @@D3Sshooter . Thanks for the post. I have a similar setup on my MGB with the Edelbrock Performer 3.51 manifold and Weber 500 carburettor. I Believe this is a common setup as it is easy to adapt to any Rover 8 from 3.5 to 4.6. Do you know what camshaft sits in the V ?
@@christophehardy9209 , I have no idea and will need to check it as soon as i get to check the low pressure cylinder 6 and 8. I expect the standard for the injection model as this was modified by the previous owner
@@@D3Sshooter I think that the stock camshaft will give good power up to 5000rpm. My engine is a 3.5 and it pulls strongly to 6500rpm with a Piper 285 camshaft. How the engine performs over 5k will tell you if it has a performance cam.
As you noted that the steering joint fouls the body: There should be a 5mm spacer between engine and engine mount on the steering side. This rocks the engine a little to the side to clear the steering column. Hope this helps.
Christophe Hardy thanks, that spacer is missing and the reason why. Good tip txs.
Buy a msd ignition, 6al i have on mye 307 v8 and it runs Great with it 👍
Thanks
check the valve lash on 6, 8
Thanks , will do
Why would anyone replace an injection system with a carburettor? Strange.
Thanks for the comments, much easier to tune and much less error prone than the electro mechanical injection system that was fitted
I wonder why anyone would convert injected to carbureted. I would have thought it's usually the other way around.
Well they did, i was told that it was to hard to keep the Injection adjusted properly and that it was more reliant with a Carburettor.... I agree with you, and if I also had the ECU with it I would possible put it all back to injection. But maybe there are people and viewers out there that have compelling reasons why its done.... maybe someone brings it up...?
@@D3SshooterSounds like the previous owner lived next to the excuse factory. Laziness or extreme lack of caring is usually what gets something converted like that. (that missing choke cable is a good clue) Hope you can get all the bits to make it fuel injected again.
@@lesdmark , thanks and that could be the reason
@@D3Sshooter the rover v8 injection is pretty easy to maintain - there is a diagnostic software Rovergauge which can be connected via an OBD port. Anyway, after nearly 30 years the electronics / ECU van be hard to replace and the carburetted version makes a much nicer induction sound than the injected one.
Great looking car. Thanks for sharing your experience with it.
It seems to have the Costello Frontline front suspension.
www.frontlinedevelopments.com/part/mgb-front-suspension-kit/
They also make a 5-link rear kit that replaces the leaf springs.
Christophe Hardy indeed that is the case txs for pointing it out
It's great to see you doing work on a British icon. It's a shame it has that awful engine in it though.Overall it has lost its looks to some extent.
Thanks for the comments, the engine is also a UK made type. The idea behind this car is to have it like the V8 that were fitted before and made ready to race. So its not a purist model
The original engines are very dated, the rover v8 is a much loved classic and transforms the car
Yes changing the distributor and some cheap components is a good idea some information may be of interest thanks for sharing www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=947&start=
👍🇦🇺
Thanks Kerry....
Orange makes me sick!
hahaha, it makes me kind of euphoric . Good thing that we all have a different taste else we would be chains all the same things
Why have a choke on a sports car like carburettor, those have a special gift and do always start, even when it's -15° C......
Those stupid Edelbrock engineers, can't even build a carburettor right...
Thanks for the comments