I don't find your commentary to be negative either. And I can confirm that Jason Tong of Headfirst Amplification is every bit as likeable in person, as well as totally professional. He did a set of reliability modifications on my '65 Princeton Princeton reissue using your videos on that topic as a guideline. Great work by a great guy
Nice amp. I got new a new SS and kept for about five years. Loved the sound, but it was always too much amp for my minimal needs. While I no longer have it, nice to learn a bit more about it. Thanks.
I don’t care about the other tech’s feelings; I care about my amp and my wallet. I appreciate being educated on what is crap work, so I’ll be able to make a more informed decision when seeking repair and maintenance services
Once again your video saved me time on chasing DC in the trem. If you think about it, being that the JMI AC30 circuit is very very close to the 5f6a circuit, Mark essentially made an American JMI AC20 with reverb.
I love what you do. Thank you. I so wish you resided in Portland, Oregon. I have so many questions. I have recently been trying to glean only a few bits of wisdom. Thank you, thank you. And 52, 52 right? Not so bad.
I don’t think it’s throwing anyone under the bus if you’re point out issues for us to learn from. Had you named them that’s different but you don’t. Always enjoy your videos, thanks
My suggestion on how to cure power cable problems as you have shown, is the take the amp out into the sun for an hour or two and work the cable into a straight, compliant shape.
The solder blob: cause of oh, so many problems! That amp has a really smooth sound. About positive vs negative comments, as Neil Degrasse Tyson said, "we scientists call it as we see it". I rather be called out for botching something than be left in ignorance and keep repeating the mistakes.
You mention, at 56 seconds in, "rear panel off; no shielding". Is there any value in adding shielding to the rear panel of an amp that doesn't have it? Copper tape, aluminium foil or whatever? And if so, does it need grounding? Thanks
A 2W 470 ohm resistor can handle 65mA. That's a ton more than a 6v6 should ever see under normal circumstances. Either internal failure of the valve or maybe failure of the G1 bias. But if the latter, the plates would have been asking for so much current the primary fuse would have opened. Waiting with bated breath on part 2 of the evaluation.
Another fine example of methodical fault finding, thanks Lyle. I was intrigued by you saying you prefer polyester caps to polypropylene as I was under the impression that polypropylene were technically superior. Of course being superior on paper and superior to the ears can be two very different things. Would you mind elaborating on where your preference comes from? No ulterior motive here, just keen to learn. Thanks. 😊
Harry Joyce didn't start wiring Hiwatts until '71. Dave Reeves did them himself in 1969. Lol Im sure you know this I just really like Hiwatts. Nice videos too.
hey man i’m sorry, you prob get questions like this A LOT but i’m wondering what you think about the new roland jc40s? i’m caught between getting a marshall dsl40 and a roland jc and am wondering if you have made a video on them or what you think? any response would be great!
Hey guys, this was MY amp before selling it to the current owner. The current owner is a good friend of mine and was fully aware of its issues before buying btw.. Just wanted to give a little history. I bought it used last year. Within a few weeks of regular use it blew a rectifier tube. Swapped that out with a JJ. Shortly after it started blowing fuses every time I flipped the standby. I took it to a local tech and also talked to Victoria. Victoria told me the JJ wasn’t up to par and that it probably be fine with a sovtek. So we went with that and the local tech did the mods on the socket to try and protect it. It was fine for probably 7-8 shows, but then it blew a power tube. Back to the tech for a fresh set and bias. But it blew those too.. back to the tech for another set. My local tech said the bias trem pot had drifted causing them to blow, but it should be fine. At this point I had bought another amp out of necessity so I never even plugged the Victoria back in. Didn’t want to buy another set of tubes haha.. after my friend bought it, it quickly blew another set of power tubes and now we’re here.. Glad to see it should be in top shape soon! It’s a great sounding amp and I hope it serves my friend/bandmate a long time. Also I did that speaker install.. I’m fully aware that was a bad job and deserve to be under the buss for that.. I did that swap after I expected to never use the amp again and just neglected it. Plus I’m a poor solderer to begin with..
Oh, I just picked up a screwdriver style torque wrench. I got it for the sole purpose of installing speakers. It starts off at 5in lbs! 12in lbs seems to be perfect for #8 studs. It makes a huge difference in sound to have a speaker tightened evenly.
to put it another way, I understand what shielding does but is there a tangible benefit to applying it to the back panel? I note that my own amp back panel looks like the one in the video so if it's worth doing, I could tackle it myself
I have a theory: is it possible someone decided to do a couple of the “immortal amp mods” and failed miserably? I ask because diodes on the rectifier and screen grid resistors are both mentioned in that series of articles. P.S. any fan of “Arthur” by the Kinks earns my respect!
If someone throws themselves under said bus and you (Lyle) get to clean up the mess, I'd say describing the situation as what it is, isn't being negative. But, that's just my opinion...
I like to use about a half an inch of clear heat shrink on my transformer connections. It looks really good to me and it makes installation and maintenance easier. Looking after the next guy and all. I find it easier to do the diode mod outside of the chassis. It just looks nicer when you don't have to work in a cramped corner of a chassis. The PS series orange drops look better to me. A little shorter, smaller diameter etc. I like the idea of a classic Tweed circuit with trem/verb. It seems to be difficult for people to get right lately. If I can add AB763 style reverb/trem to a JCM800, surely some amp manufacturer can do it right.
That is a very expensive 20w amp. Multiply the US price by two and you’ll arrive at the Australian price, if we’re lucky. For $3,100-$3,200 USD, I’d hope to find nobody under the bus, but there’s always someone lying there these days.
![Chino Pacas - Modo Capone (with Drake & Fuerza Regida) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zjv8TQ0gBkg/mqdefault.jpg)
Not sure where that brief burst of static came from at 10:30. Not worth reuploading - just know that didn’t come out of the amp.
Thanks for noting that. That had me concerned but now I need not try to imagine what might have caused it.
I just thought you had brush against the mic…
I don’t find your commentary to be negative. Poop by any other name smells the same. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
I have learned so much about amps from your videos. Thank you for sharing your craft and elevating the standards for your profession!
Well said!!! Thank you 🙏 Lyle!!!
Any amp that falls in your hands is a happy amp. Incredible work.
I don't find your commentary to be negative either. And I can confirm that Jason Tong of Headfirst Amplification is every bit as likeable in person, as well as totally professional. He did a set of reliability modifications on my '65 Princeton Princeton reissue using your videos on that topic as a guideline. Great work by a great guy
Nice amp. I got new a new SS and kept for about five years. Loved the sound, but it was always too much amp for my minimal needs. While I no longer have it, nice to learn a bit more about it. Thanks.
"Lots of people underneath that bus" - love it!
I don’t care about the other tech’s feelings; I care about my amp and my wallet. I appreciate being educated on what is crap work, so I’ll be able to make a more informed decision when seeking repair and maintenance services
That's funny, just learned Victoria on the piano this morning. Life's little quirks
Was not expecting random singing from this channel, but I always appreciate it.
Once again your video saved me time on chasing DC in the trem. If you think about it, being that the JMI AC30 circuit is very very close to the 5f6a circuit, Mark essentially made an American JMI AC20 with reverb.
Man, that amp's tone is worth every penny!
I love what you do. Thank you. I so wish you resided in Portland, Oregon. I have so many questions. I have recently been trying to glean only a few bits of wisdom. Thank you, thank you. And 52, 52 right? Not so bad.
I don’t think it’s throwing anyone under the bus if you’re point out issues for us to learn from. Had you named them that’s different but you don’t. Always enjoy your videos, thanks
Good afternoon Mr Lyle, thanks for your time.
You're a really great teacher.
I have decided to buy one of Jason's 2204 PCBs and a mojotone parts kit. Wish me luck Lyle I'm gonna need it!
You don’t need luck! Just patience. That’s much more important.
My suggestion on how to cure power cable problems as you have shown, is the take the amp out into the sun for an hour or two and work the cable into a straight, compliant shape.
The solder blob: cause of oh, so many problems! That amp has a really smooth sound.
About positive vs negative comments, as Neil Degrasse Tyson said, "we scientists call it as we see it". I rather be called out for botching something than be left in ignorance and keep repeating the mistakes.
Kinks reference .10 points maestro!
You mention, at 56 seconds in, "rear panel off; no shielding". Is there any value in adding shielding to the rear panel of an amp that doesn't have it? Copper tape, aluminium foil or whatever? And if so, does it need grounding? Thanks
Captain Negative, permission to come aboard! I have a report from the the northern flank, all busses cleared and accounted for...
The diodes on the rectifier tube, are they what they call fly-back diodes? If not, what does that terminology refer to? Thank you
if you jump in front of buses....sooner or later. keep doing you Kyle!
A 2W 470 ohm resistor can handle 65mA. That's a ton more than a 6v6 should ever see under normal circumstances. Either internal failure of the valve or maybe failure of the G1 bias. But if the latter, the plates would have been asking for so much current the primary fuse would have opened. Waiting with bated breath on part 2 of the evaluation.
What is that solder wick you're using? Thick and wide with a really tight weave; seen it, now I gotta have it.
www.tubedepot.com/products/no-clean-wick-number-4-blue
There's an entire village under that bus...
Very nice. Thanks!
That’s hiss was crazy.
Another fine example of methodical fault finding, thanks Lyle. I was intrigued by you saying you prefer polyester caps to polypropylene as I was under the impression that polypropylene were technically superior. Of course being superior on paper and superior to the ears can be two very different things. Would you mind elaborating on where your preference comes from? No ulterior motive here, just keen to learn. Thanks. 😊
They distort differently. And cumulatively, I prefer that sound.
Harry Joyce didn't start wiring Hiwatts until '71. Dave Reeves did them himself in 1969. Lol Im sure you know this I just really like Hiwatts. Nice videos too.
Yeah, stuff said in the moment. I dug you on the X Files…
hey man i’m sorry, you prob get questions like this A LOT but i’m wondering what you think about the new roland jc40s? i’m caught between getting a marshall dsl40 and a roland jc and am wondering if you have made a video on them or what you think? any response would be great!
The JC series was great in 1978. Now they’re overpriced noisy low headroom one trick ponies. A Katana does that same sound.
very interesting ill have to look into an old one then. imma get the marshall @@PsionicAudio
Hey guys, this was MY amp before selling it to the current owner. The current owner is a good friend of mine and was fully aware of its issues before buying btw..
Just wanted to give a little history. I bought it used last year. Within a few weeks of regular use it blew a rectifier tube. Swapped that out with a JJ. Shortly after it started blowing fuses every time I flipped the standby. I took it to a local tech and also talked to Victoria. Victoria told me the JJ wasn’t up to par and that it probably be fine with a sovtek. So we went with that and the local tech did the mods on the socket to try and protect it. It was fine for probably 7-8 shows, but then it blew a power tube. Back to the tech for a fresh set and bias. But it blew those too.. back to the tech for another set. My local tech said the bias trem pot had drifted causing them to blow, but it should be fine. At this point I had bought another amp out of necessity so I never even plugged the Victoria back in. Didn’t want to buy another set of tubes haha.. after my friend bought it, it quickly blew another set of power tubes and now we’re here..
Glad to see it should be in top shape soon! It’s a great sounding amp and I hope it serves my friend/bandmate a long time.
Also I did that speaker install.. I’m fully aware that was a bad job and deserve to be under the buss for that.. I did that swap after I expected to never use the amp again and just neglected it. Plus I’m a poor solderer to begin with..
Dude, you don’t have to throw *yourself* under the bus.
But know there is absolutely nothing wrong with the bias pot.
@@PsionicAudio Appreciate that man. Excited to hear this thing back in action!
Oh, I just picked up a screwdriver style torque wrench. I got it for the sole purpose of installing speakers.
It starts off at 5in lbs! 12in lbs seems to be perfect for #8 studs.
It makes a huge difference in sound to have a speaker tightened evenly.
Quick question- what would be the benefit of shielding the back panel, and what would you use to do it?
to put it another way, I understand what shielding does but is there a tangible benefit to applying it to the back panel? I note that my own amp back panel looks like the one in the video so if it's worth doing, I could tackle it myself
I have a theory: is it possible someone decided to do a couple of the “immortal amp mods” and failed miserably? I ask because diodes on the rectifier and screen grid resistors are both mentioned in that series of articles.
P.S. any fan of “Arthur” by the Kinks earns my respect!
We got both the cover of the song Victoria at the start and the band itself a bit later: The Kinks [in the power cable].
@@grizcuz well played! Did you know that when you opened up the album Arthur a big kangaroo popped up? 😜
Sound like it could be great amp
Let’s Roll!
Let’s be clear: Nobody - NOBODY - should tolerate or make excuses for shoddy workmanship.
Dance Exponents!
Who is driving the bus?
under the bus..... yeah, lots of people there....
If someone throws themselves under said bus and you (Lyle) get to clean up the mess, I'd say describing the situation as what it is, isn't being negative. But, that's just my opinion...
Exactamundo 😎👍👍
It's perfectly normal for new production techs to just drift underneath busses. Best not to investigate further, nor ask how they got there.
Buses, or [electrical] busses? I don't know which is worse....😳☠
@@goodun2974 Yeah I wasn't even sure if I was spelling it correctly, or furthering the joke
@@GetTheLedOut8585 , it's alright, I misspelled is as "us"!
I like to use about a half an inch of clear heat shrink on my transformer connections. It looks really good to me and it makes installation and maintenance easier. Looking after the next guy and all.
I find it easier to do the diode mod outside of the chassis. It just looks nicer when you don't have to work in a cramped corner of a chassis.
The PS series orange drops look better to me. A little shorter, smaller diameter etc.
I like the idea of a classic Tweed circuit with trem/verb. It seems to be difficult for people to get right lately.
If I can add AB763 style reverb/trem to a JCM800, surely some amp manufacturer can do it right.
That is a very expensive 20w amp. Multiply the US price by two and you’ll arrive at the Australian price, if we’re lucky. For $3,100-$3,200 USD, I’d hope to find nobody under the bus, but there’s always someone lying there these days.
The inside looks like an orange grove
Please continue exposing the vermin (who call themselves technicians) under the bus...