@@LandtoHouse I would like to try and get something like this to work on my pool return lines! If i could produce 110/30a or close it would reduce the money I spend running the pool pump.
That's a great micro hydro video! If you're interested in alternative power solutions, you might want to check out the Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series. It offers a massive capacity, powerful output, and fast recharging. Plus, it's waterproof and has comprehensive protection features. It could be a valuable addition to your outdoor gear or home backup power system. Happy camping!
That's a really interesting video! If you're into off-grid systems, you should definitely check out the Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series. It's a versatile powerhouse that can keep your devices and appliances running for extended periods. With its massive capacity, powerful output, and waterproof technology, it's perfect for outdoor enthusiasts and RV lovers. Plus, it has a smart app control feature for easy management. Check it out!
Thanks for that, I guess! I just used white PVC couplers, fully exposed to the sun, for connecting my risers to my impact sprinkler heads, anyone know if the grey PVC fittings are any better in UV?
Why do you like this? Its the most ignorant design, with massive efficiency loss. This entire system is virtually trash. These hydro generator designs were better on the platform a decade ago, and now everyone acts like theyre an expert, but the reality is they dont know anything but the basic asss concept. Do your research cause this entire design is a waste of time and energy...
when the batteries are full... understanding that you cannot take the load off a turbine, which would cause it to spin free (destroying the bearings), where do you dump this power to keep the resistance?
now, hook that 500 watts up to h2o electrolysis to produce hydrogen for the ballard fuel cells and bump it up to whatever you want, gigawatts or more, just keep doubling it up with fuels cells and Electrolyzers --Quetexawatts even.
I wonder if you collected the water into another pipe after it passed through the first generator, how long would it have to run before having enough pressure to go through another generator?
You would need the same amount of elevation 'downhill' from the first turbine to build up that same pressure/head again. For more (hydro) power on this property, it'd be best just to put an extra coanda & pipe in to collect more water right after the first one (if drying up the stream isn't a big concern), down to a second turbine near the first one. That said, dry season might very well mean there's not enough water for 2 turbines (or even 1)... so if any extra power is needed, it'd be better to just supplement with solar.
How difficult is it to find a plot of land with a suitable creek and height difference? Assuming you're of normal means, maybe $100k budget for land only.
Curious why you wouldn't put generator closer to water and cable electric to cabin. Way less noticable.Transform it to 230Vac and it will transport pretty well over distance. I can see security of generator being an issue but matiance on the water pipes has to be a nightmare.
If your already generating a/c why not use that directly for normal use? This seems unnecessarily complex, and your losing some power with each change. Would a motor/generator be more efficient for the a/c - d/c conversion?
The AC that is coming from the PMA is wild fluctuating 3 phase. The power we use in our homes is locked down at 60hz and is single phase. Trying to use the power right from the PMA would blow up most appliances.
The ac from the pma is wild fluctuating 3 phase. Hz value is all over the place. Converting to DC allows for storage in batteries and conversion to 60Hz 120v ac.
I have a stupid question... how does placing those two rocks before the screen supposed to slow the water down? Seems to me you can pull all the rocks there you want.. it wont slow the water down.
putting anything in the path of water, which naturally takes the path of least resistance, acts as a brake that it must flow around, reducing the flow speed it otherwise would have had going directly over the screen before without affecting the actual volume of water. Think of it like traffic on a motorway, if you put a bunch of cones out that drivers must slow down to maneuver around it doesn't reduce the number of cars that will travel or the speed they can reach before or after the cones, it just slows them down at the cones.
@@masteroogway6660 thanks for reply.. still makes no sense to me.. traffic can back up and collect as it trickles through slower through an obstacle... the water seems different to me.. put the rocks there... but if you have 30 gallons of water a minute coming from upstream... then you will still have 30 gallons of water going over that filter. Say the flow has been restricted to 20 gallons a minute... you still have 30 gallons a minute coming in... where is that 10 gallons a minute going if its not going over the filter?
@user-io8bm6gz5z it's all going over the filter just like all the cars get around the cones and regular traffic resumes, there's just a slight interruption at the point its needed, if 30 gallons was before the rocks and only 20 gallons after then you'd form a pond which would increase the amount of water before the rocks and it would naturally find a new equilibrium as all water will
@@masteroogway6660 cars wont over flow and spill over the sides of the hwy.. they can literally stop and wait.. not like water. If its slowed more than the amount coming in then its going to continually build up and spill over the sides... if its not spilling over the sides then whatever amount is coming in, is going over the filter regardless of what you put in front of it. Sorry, im not trying to be an internet prick lol... it just doesnmt make any sense to me. 30 gpm coming in then 30 going out.. if the water going out has slowed more than whats coming in then it would start to accumulate and spill over the sides... if thats what's happening Im sorry I missed that part. Only thing I can see those rocks doing is perhaps blocking some turbulence and making the flow more smooth.
@user-io8bm6gz5z stop thinking of it as a set amount in and out and dont think cars then, you don't know what the flow rate was before the rocks were there, only that it was "too fast" to allow enough water to fall down the grate it just shot right over, so all the info we have is that no rocks was too fast and the volumes the same, now there is rocks, the rocks have caused a barrier that has changed the natural flow speed, it may travel faster physically around and between the rocks because the volume of water is the same, but when it's on the other side of the rocks it's the same volume but over a larger surface area than it was between the rocks, causing it to travel slower again, slow enough over the grate to operate correctly anyway, this may have caused a slight build up in water before the grate and stones, if it has its not affecting anything as there's already a reservoir area of slower moving water there. It's basically the same reason water slows down again after a rapids, rapids are the same volume travelling over a smaller surface area, causing it to go fast, it then reaches a larger surface, volume is the same, water slows down.
Ok that is very excessive length of pipe to system. Would have been better to not reduced pipe size for length of 20' then if needed reduced to 4" next 10'. Also dig into hill to give it higher drop angle. A door to access system would be needed. Then divert back to creek sooner down the hill.
Looks overly complicated imho Why not just build a sand trap at the culvert and feed your turbine from there. Use welded HDPE pipe and bury the lot, PVC is not a good choice as it becomes brittle. Overall, a couple of solar panels seem way more cost effective than this entire setup
My father passed last year and I'm trying to patch up his homestead. One of the tricky bits has been making sense of the hydro generator system. So this video is incredibly helpful :)
I'm 75, and have had a few similar comments on my hydro system : "when you die, no one else will be able to figure out how to operate it." I just tell them "not my problem."
@@darrenthumbsup2881you also need to know that each maintenance doesn't mean you need to replace ALL the things every time there's maintenance. The maintenance might only be a certain component or part that need to be changed. No big deal absolutely worth it.
I saw a video where they installed a hot water tank to pull the extra charge off the system. This way you don't over work the turbine. There was a temperature monitoring unit on it so if it reached a certain temperature it would flush the hot water out. Kind of cool.
Its a great concept. For long term use. Transitioning to stainless steel piping for the length of the system. Weather permitted you can also use a heat tape to keep it from freezing in extreme temps. I love the concept! 😎👍
Awesome video, and great information... Especially for a newb like me trying to learn about these types of setups.... I love WNC and wish I had a place in the woods I could setup like that..
Thank you for watching. It's nice to know that my videos are helpful for educational purposes. This system really was designed nicely and working well.
@@LandtoHouse I'm not expert at electricity but that's a lot work for a mere 500watts so I have to ask : is it making 500 watts per hour, or per minute or oer second (instantly) because if it's per hour, it can power only a fridge, ceiling fan and a tv at max so not really worth it. But if it's at least per minute or per second it will be actually worth it.
Why not use a wheel that is cheaper and you don't need concrete in a creek bed! And can have a shaft that spins and can make your power with less material and maintenance
I just want to know why it couldnt be just used as a/c current why does it need to be downsized to d/c just to be upsized again to a/c this confuses me.
Forgive my ignorance as RUclips randomly recommended this to me, but is this permitted in any way? Most states are protective of the rivers, creeks, and streams that run within them, and for very good reason. Here in Pennsylvania, a friend of my grandfather was looking into replacing the dam on their property and was told that they may only repair or remove it as the state does not allow the construction of new dams without a special permit. Granted this hydro system has far less of an impact than that dam did, but again: states are protective of their waterways.
In this state, we have permission to use a percentage of the Creek as long as it returns to the Creek. Farmers also have rights to use a percentage for irrigation. Dams are another story.
You know. I live in the suburbs, I wonder if you could hide the piping from the city and have your water coming in to your house go through a micro hydro setup before you use it lowering your electric bill lol
Does anyone know whether this is more or less expensive than the 500 watt equivalent of solar panels? I’m assuming it is, and I love that it works at night and cloudy days too.
I assume this would cost more yes. But as you said it has its benefits, but requires a significant resource whereas sun is plentiful. But really, since solar only harvests part of the day, you’d need a 1000W system and batteries to get a similar result.
"Does anyone know whether this is more or less expensive than [equivalent] solar panels? I'm assuming it is..." You are 100% correct! It is definitely MORE or LESS expensive. (sorry, I could not resist! You said - I am assuming it is... Is more? OR Is less expensive? You left us hanging!)
Many thousands. rule of thumb: $1/W for batteries. $1/W for inverters. $1/W for system charge controllers circuit breakers and wiring. So, there's about $20-25K there, without the hydro equipment.
@@ruprectmonkeyboy1856 Its too small to make any sense, 500W? My neighbour has river running his backyard and his hydro turbine makes 17-21kW I would have just bought solar and batteries with this money
Very clear presentation, thank you. No mention though of the costs. Why not? Also, is the house entirely off the grid, or is this system just for backup? At a constant 500 watts it would generate about 360 kwh/month (which is a bit light for me) and @30¢/kwh would save $108/mo in utility charges. How long does it take a $1,300/yr saving to pay off the investment?
It's not always about being "cheaper than grid power". Grid power might not have been an option at this location, or it might have been $30-50k to run if it were. I can say from experience that battery & inverter setup was probably in the neighborhood of $10-12k, with the hydro setup maybe another $5-10k. 500W or ~12 kWh a day is no joke - that's more power over the course of a year than I use in my single family home. Supplement with solar as needed (and a generator for emergency backup power) and you're gold.
Depends on whether there's mains power available at the site. If you're paying for a long power connection there's a large sunk cost for that. First customer pays, and the connection is not yours. 2nd person in can just tap into it, essentially for free, because it belongs to the utility company.
@@Justin-C Down here if we had hills and water to use, that 500Watts would be just a drop in the bucket. Because the A/C is running almost all the time. Average daily consumption is around 67kWh.
Normally these systems get installed because of a choice. Run electricity to home, paying for poles, etc or go with hydro, solar and wind. A well balanced system can provide total home energy and no taxes paid at all! That’s the most important part.
Would Y pieces not be more efficient than the T pieces where the water exits the system and hits the generator? Great job on this system in any case well done!! I see a lot of questions on cost but with the way energy prices are always going I would say it would soon pay for itself.
I think more experimentation needs to be done on the impulse wheel. I feel there is more energy available than you are getting. Perhaps a jet turban inside the pipe with thru shaft to the outside thru a 45 degree bend to generator. Or, a turgo runner, instead of a pelton. The problem with pelton is that it relies on head pressure, but resist the flow. Water has to slow down to get the job done. It’s like getting lots of amps, but slow volts. Very nice set up!
Having a piece of land with a lot of height difference and a creek has a lot of added value because you can get a lot of electricity, and its constant. Pretty good! I would surely add solar panels too, and build an indoor greenhouse if I had that much free power. 500 watts all day long can probably run all appliances of the house you run each day while they are not on all day long. Greetings, Jeff
You can always build a mini-dam (just a tub to catch the water, really) to balance out the lack of a height difference - I reckon it's better to build it either way, because creeks don't have a constant flow of water year-round and you'd wanna account for that fluctuation.
@@YamiKisara Not how that works, you can't artificially add height difference, the energy comes from the change in height of the water from the source to the drain. This takes advantage of all of the 50ft of head using that pipe, which is superior to a dam. In terms of a small scale energy storage solution (since 500W isn't enough for most appliances, but averaged over the day and night ought to be more than enough) would be a battery, since a dam for energy storage simply isn't reactive enough to fluctuate to power, say, a toaster or something.
@@asdfasdf-dd9lk They can still use a reactive turbine for the larger creek/reservoirs with less head; Pretty sure it goes as low as 5 foot but the reactive turbines need a higher volume flow rate than the pelton turbine used in this video
Thanks for an excellent video. I'm sure it's all been well thought out by people way more knowledgeable than me, but I have a question regarding the "battery full" scenario: If the turbine goes into near free-spin, and switches to high volt and low current as you said, then there's next to no load on the system. With commercial power stations that's a "no-no." Important and expensive things break in spectacular fashion. I'm sure the box is "smart," but wouldn't it be better to have a servo operated valve to shut down the water flow just to be sure?
Kris Harbour has a great channel all about this. He is in Whales and he builds his own, and does exactly what you said. He has servos set up that can increase/decrease water pressure and flow to the turbine, and if all hell breaks lose, it can even just dump all the water from a gate valve later. Pretty impressive stuff really.
@@davidblake1663 My hydro system has a load controller that senses when the voltage starts to climb above a setpoint, it shunts the power to a dump load (resistors) to keep the turbine from over speeding. Mine does this when the grid goes down, if charging batteries, when the batteries reach float, the same thing would happen.
Hello Seth. I recently found a small creek that comes off the hill behind out house here in Alaska. It has a pretty good flow rate but is narrow. We would love to create some power to offset the days when solar is to low. We run a 24v system here with a growatt 3000 inverter and two 200ah lithium batteries.On average we use about 5-6amps an hour. I would love to be able to pretty much keep the batteries on float except at times we use more. Is this something that can be done? If I go towards the top of the creek it is around 250' above and 500 yards from the house where I want to create a pond for it to drain into. The creek goes below ground at the base of the hill and does not feed into another body of water. What about rises in the ground? Can this be over come by valves to release air that gets trapped?
Can't we get a cost estimate for the setup ? I guess if it is very remote it is irrelevant, but would be nice to know how much - especially the battery bank - costs
Wow I thank you ,I I followed you on Ram pump but this my favorite micro giriid I hope you to buid one in Genbu Nigeria and in my apple farm by God grace in the future
Nice vid. But it is all done just for the showcase: it's unreliable and temporal. Wood that gonna rot, pvc under sun , exposed wires and connections, li-on batteries that lose capacity after year of use. And the price of new house :)
I note that there is no data between the Midnight charge controller and the batteries? This could result in an overcharge situation. (Though with cautious setting of the max charge voltage, this can be mitgated against, to some extent.) Also, it would be better to have a 3ph breaker on the AC input from the turbine, rather than a on the output DC. Allowing protection/isolation from a failed diode pack. (I won't comment on the beer can heatsink!) Interesting walk around though.
Isn't the point of the charge controller to automatically know the max potential of the batteries and cut off before it gets there? That's how my (very, very cheap, 10a solar) charge controller works
@@alexevans2891 The charge controller can only (usually) sense battery charge state based on battery voltage. That is ok for lead acid. But unreliable for lithium. The BMS in the batts 'should' keep a record of the accumulated charge and then command the controller as required. My own system does rely on battery voltage, and me keeping a close eye on it. So I am just as guilty. But I wouldn't recomend it for a fit and forget installation.
I have friends who were quoted $85k for a mains supply. They were able to completely off-grid for less than half that cost, and have never had a power cut, unlike many of their ‘near’ neighbours on-grid.
that battery isnt necessary for hydro setups. i wonder if they have solar as well because 12kw a day from hydro isn't enough unless they're extremely minimalist and efficient. if you have sufficient hydro power you can get by just fine with a much smaller battery because water flows at night too. solar needs huge batteries because of no power generation at night. similar option if you have a reservoir that doesn't have enough flow for all day you can use solar and open the water valve at night too to save on battery costs but that doesn't work with streams
It's likely not usable as 3 phase. Probably too high a frequency. This is the reason for the rectification, and subsequent inverter. If it was 60 Hz there'd be no need for that intermediate step. The point is, no 3 phase motors allowed.
@ruprectmonkeyboy1856 good observation. Yes the 3phaze would have its own phase position and not be able to connect (align position) with the grid phase position. But You could use it "dirty" to run many things. Like heating element, an old resistance light bulb is fun because you can sometimes see the HZ hertz cycle of the generator. 40hz to 60hz depending on the speed. You would need/want an AC capacitor and regulator transphormer to run anything with a computer in it. The capacitor should reduce any power surges and the regulators wa a a a w taped in before the rectifier will give you that clean power wave. 120v without the losses that a
@@scottadams3544 those small alternators don't typically run at 50-60 Hz. A PM alternator like that can't speed regulate electrically by increasing the torque load, so it's gonna spin at whatever speed it wants to, and create AC at whatever frequency it wants to. That's not usable in any other way than they way they're doing it, other than in a heater or incandescent load as you mention.
Former colleague of mine has a place in Oregon with a year-round stream. There's about a 300 foot change in elevation across his property. Not sure how much power he's making, but he's running his house and wood shop on a Pelton turbine. He's using firehose instead of pipes to feed his system, apparently hose that's considered too worn for the firetruck was available at a very reasonable price.
500 Watts constant delivery is impressive. it's enough for passiv consumers like fridges and can serve a computer. With battery together, it should be enough to run a whole household.
12KWh is a little light, so I think I'd run this in combination with some solar panels and get a hybrid charge controller. The consistent power output is nice though. I did some very rough math, and it seems the hydro setup would be about 2x the cost of a solar setup with similar daily output.
How can you combine solar power with hydro power? How can that lithium battery tower kick in during the night and overcast days, even though you're using hydroelectric off-grid system. How can you power the whole house with both solar and hydro power together simultaneously at the same time?
My hydro system is putting out 832 watts into the grid as I type this. Gravity is a beautiful thing! True story: they person I bought my Coanada screen from 16 years ago was named.....Bob Weir. No, not the Grateful Dead Weir, but another one "a low dam built across a river to raise the level of water upstream or regulate its flow." Kind of the description of a C screen.
Excellent, basic system, however, I can never understand why more attention isn't placed on the surrounds of the PMA - why not build a complete shed together with noise dampening insulation over the PMA and wooden raft? - this would provide protection for maintenance and keep everything in tip top condition....
----- TIME HAS RUN OUT !! John 3:16 For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life. Don't ignore this message... REPENT NOW !! TRUST that God raised Him from the dead !! By FAITH accept JESUS's blood alone as payment for your sins unto Salvation, to escape what's about to happen !!
I have 8” pvc all the way to my two turbines ( exact turbines as this video ) penstock is 900 ft. I have the exact same battery bank as the video . I have the Schneider 6848 XW Pro inverter, Schneider Charge Controller. And PDP. Two turbines means two runs of wire 400 ft each, two rectifiers, power disconnects etc… I also have 20 solar panels for summer months when 5he creek slows. I also purchased a custom coanda screen and hand built weir. The grand total is right at 35 k
The electrical wiring all looks pretty sketchy. Seems like the wire-nuts joining the alternator to the 10/2 cable ought to be protected in a box, especially in that humid/moist environment. The exposed rectifier just screwed to the wall is asking for trouble. And does that need a heat sink? Or is the concrete doing that? Exposed bus bars in the battery rack without protection is asking for trouble; a short there with the high currents available are gonna melt anything that comes across them. That battery to inverter wiring ought to tied down, not just hanging out of the top of the battery cabinet. Then the wiring in and out of the inverter is just hanging there under it's own weight and not tied down isn't great, either. The utility of those DC breakers, especially the DC power in and out of the battery cabinet would be greatly improved with some sort of labeling. So when fire/smoke is shooting out of something, you don't have to remember how that got wired up. I'd think that just because you're off grid doesn't mean you should ignore normal electrical codes and practices; seems like the associated safety would be good to have. I'm no electrician by trade, but.. I've added branch circuits, lots of current transformers to monitor power consumption, etc. Professionally, I've had to help design and operate large data centers and worried about UPS systems, standby generators, automatic transfer switches, etc. So I know enough to be dangerous and when to involve professionals. I think raising the bar on the electrical side of all this would improve the long term reliability of this installed system. And for the $$$ that someone spent on all those batteries, I would have expected a minor investment on the electrical craft work side of things. And I'd think the cost to have this be less scary is just a few hundred dollars.
Very cool. What kind of price is that setup? I would 'assume' the hardest part is getting land with constant running water you put to work? And then any idiotic 'environmental regs' put in place by well-meaning fools.
You mentioned that a dip in the pipe would cause a partial air-lock and that's true but in practice the air trapped in the high point will eventually dissolve in the water and be carried out of the system.
Very bad setup on the pipes, lots of bends, have it as straight as possible. And gosh that setup at the turbine, holy shit that is just terrible, full of 90s bends😂 And at least install a bypass at the main valve down by the turbine. Close that valve fast and your pipes will blow a joint or crack a pipe.
Please excuse my ignorance, I was fascinated by the video, but it was as if someone were speaking Chinese to me. I have no idea how much electricity costs where this is set up. I also have no idea how much this kind of system costs to purchase and install. Does anyone know how long this kind of system takes to get a return on investment? Thank you.
Im mechanical inclined, and having watched multiple videos and doing research online. I would hire a contractor to assist me with a install. There’s a lot of calculations that has to be done to insure it meets your particular needs.
Too much cost for too little power. Lots of additional environmental impact from materials, batteries, etc. Is it located where the water freezes, if it is that's a problem too. Was permission required and was it obtained to do what was done?
What if you cannot cement your hydro screen box in? Does anyone have a hydro system where is snows and freezes or do you pull the system out in winter?
So there's no protection until after the rectifier, and no control on the generator? What if there's a fault on the line from the generator to the rectifier? Or even worse, a fault at the rectifier inside the house?? If you can't trip the generator or interrupt a fault at the rectifier seems like that's a recipe for a house fire.
1 MILLION VIEW MICRO HYDRO video
ruclips.net/video/f62o9SNwmEU/видео.html
The first link in the description doesn’t appear to work.
I checked this morning and it was working. Looks like it's got some server error.
@@LandtoHouse I would like to try and get something like this to work on my pool return lines! If i could produce 110/30a or close it would reduce the money I spend running the pool pump.
That's a great micro hydro video! If you're interested in alternative power solutions, you might want to check out the Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series. It offers a massive capacity, powerful output, and fast recharging. Plus, it's waterproof and has comprehensive protection features. It could be a valuable addition to your outdoor gear or home backup power system. Happy camping!
That's a really interesting video! If you're into off-grid systems, you should definitely check out the Segway Portable PowerStation Cube Series. It's a versatile powerhouse that can keep your devices and appliances running for extended periods. With its massive capacity, powerful output, and waterproof technology, it's perfect for outdoor enthusiasts and RV lovers. Plus, it has a smart app control feature for easy management. Check it out!
PVC is made for interior and under ground piping. It is susceptible to UV degradation. It would be advisable to paint it when left outside.
Yeah, just an exterior grade latex should suffice, there’s plenty of paints that block 100% of UV radiation.
uPVC is available, and is UV stable. However, I would still paint it a colour more appropriate to be less obtrusive in the environment.
So in 20 years it becomes brittle, big deal!
@@boblatkey7160 Won't take that long but okay suit yourself. It's a brilliant system
Thank you Sir
Thanks for that, I guess! I just used white PVC couplers, fully exposed to the sun, for connecting my risers to my impact sprinkler heads, anyone know if the grey PVC fittings are any better in UV?
I really like the design of the 3" ring pipe with T's to the straight-in 2" ball valves and jets.
Yes it is working well for them! 500w is great for an off grid system.
Why do you like this? Its the most ignorant design, with massive efficiency loss. This entire system is virtually trash. These hydro generator designs were better on the platform a decade ago, and now everyone acts like theyre an expert, but the reality is they dont know anything but the basic asss concept. Do your research cause this entire design is a waste of time and energy...
Yeah, having jets from four directions probably helps the bearings last longer too.
Superb explanation! You can really understand how this system works. Kudos!
An estimated cost would have been nice.
Cool setup.
Thanks for sharing.
the way that system owner kept the generator module is like a super sports car's engine bay!
Thank you
Fantastic detail in explanation. Thank you sir.
I do not apologize.
I would use all the water in a stream I possibly could.
cool, if only i had 20grand to spend on a 500w generator
Great video!
when the batteries are full... understanding that you cannot take the load off a turbine, which would cause it to spin free (destroying the bearings), where do you dump this power to keep the resistance?
I am interested In that micro Hydro system..
Awesome system what would this all cost to build with the same stuff please reply back.
now, hook that 500 watts up to h2o electrolysis to produce hydrogen for the ballard fuel cells and bump it up to whatever you want, gigawatts or more, just keep doubling it up with fuels cells and Electrolyzers --Quetexawatts even.
I wonder if you collected the water into another pipe after it passed through the first generator, how long would it have to run before having enough pressure to go through another generator?
You would need the same amount of elevation 'downhill' from the first turbine to build up that same pressure/head again.
For more (hydro) power on this property, it'd be best just to put an extra coanda & pipe in to collect more water right after the first one (if drying up the stream isn't a big concern), down to a second turbine near the first one. That said, dry season might very well mean there's not enough water for 2 turbines (or even 1)... so if any extra power is needed, it'd be better to just supplement with solar.
Loses all its pressure/energy the moment it hits generator.
How difficult is it to find a plot of land with a suitable creek and height difference? Assuming you're of normal means, maybe $100k budget for land only.
Great video. What is the total investment about?
I got lost there from time to time, but it's good system nontheless . . . 😮
I have a question regarding the electrical wire run-I need to run mine almost 3000 feet from my creek to my power center. Any suggestions or tips?
well done :)
Curious why you wouldn't put generator closer to water and cable electric to cabin. Way less noticable.Transform it to 230Vac and it will transport pretty well over distance. I can see security of generator being an issue but matiance on the water pipes has to be a nightmare.
If your already generating a/c why not use that directly for normal use? This seems unnecessarily complex, and your losing some power with each change. Would a motor/generator be more efficient for the a/c - d/c conversion?
The AC that is coming from the PMA is wild fluctuating 3 phase. The power we use in our homes is locked down at 60hz and is single phase. Trying to use the power right from the PMA would blow up most appliances.
@@LandtoHouse they do make regulators for that and a governor on the turbine would help with that and make it last longer.
If you have elevation you don't need much water
(Head pressure in feet X gpm)/10=power
Correct if you have 175 feet of head and 30gpm you can make nice power.
soda can behind the rectifier?
How’d you get the EPA to OK this?
Not 3-phase. Houses are 2-phase. Main breaker has 2 legs.
rough cost?
Whyo was the pipe so long?
To gain the head pressure (drop)
Why rectify and then invert again?? AC to DC to AC is lossy.
The ac from the pma is wild fluctuating 3 phase. Hz value is all over the place. Converting to DC allows for storage in batteries and conversion to 60Hz 120v ac.
No air reliefs ?
I have a stupid question... how does placing those two rocks before the screen supposed to slow the water down? Seems to me you can pull all the rocks there you want.. it wont slow the water down.
putting anything in the path of water, which naturally takes the path of least resistance, acts as a brake that it must flow around, reducing the flow speed it otherwise would have had going directly over the screen before without affecting the actual volume of water. Think of it like traffic on a motorway, if you put a bunch of cones out that drivers must slow down to maneuver around it doesn't reduce the number of cars that will travel or the speed they can reach before or after the cones, it just slows them down at the cones.
@@masteroogway6660 thanks for reply.. still makes no sense to me.. traffic can back up and collect as it trickles through slower through an obstacle... the water seems different to me.. put the rocks there... but if you have 30 gallons of water a minute coming from upstream... then you will still have 30 gallons of water going over that filter. Say the flow has been restricted to 20 gallons a minute... you still have 30 gallons a minute coming in... where is that 10 gallons a minute going if its not going over the filter?
@user-io8bm6gz5z it's all going over the filter just like all the cars get around the cones and regular traffic resumes, there's just a slight interruption at the point its needed, if 30 gallons was before the rocks and only 20 gallons after then you'd form a pond which would increase the amount of water before the rocks and it would naturally find a new equilibrium as all water will
@@masteroogway6660 cars wont over flow and spill over the sides of the hwy.. they can literally stop and wait.. not like water. If its slowed more than the amount coming in then its going to continually build up and spill over the sides... if its not spilling over the sides then whatever amount is coming in, is going over the filter regardless of what you put in front of it. Sorry, im not trying to be an internet prick lol... it just doesnmt make any sense to me. 30 gpm coming in then 30 going out.. if the water going out has slowed more than whats coming in then it would start to accumulate and spill over the sides... if thats what's happening Im sorry I missed that part. Only thing I can see those rocks doing is perhaps blocking some turbulence and making the flow more smooth.
@user-io8bm6gz5z stop thinking of it as a set amount in and out and dont think cars then, you don't know what the flow rate was before the rocks were there, only that it was "too fast" to allow enough water to fall down the grate it just shot right over, so all the info we have is that no rocks was too fast and the volumes the same, now there is rocks, the rocks have caused a barrier that has changed the natural flow speed, it may travel faster physically around and between the rocks because the volume of water is the same, but when it's on the other side of the rocks it's the same volume but over a larger surface area than it was between the rocks, causing it to travel slower again, slow enough over the grate to operate correctly anyway, this may have caused a slight build up in water before the grate and stones, if it has its not affecting anything as there's already a reservoir area of slower moving water there. It's basically the same reason water slows down again after a rapids, rapids are the same volume travelling over a smaller surface area, causing it to go fast, it then reaches a larger surface, volume is the same, water slows down.
Saya sudah hadir dalam kanal anda
I bet that boosts your ego
Ok that is very excessive length of pipe to system. Would have been better to not reduced pipe size for length of 20' then if needed reduced to 4" next 10'. Also dig into hill to give it higher drop angle. A door to access system would be needed. Then divert back to creek sooner down the hill.
Looks overly complicated imho Why not just build a sand trap at the culvert and feed your turbine from there. Use welded HDPE pipe and bury the lot, PVC is not a good choice as it becomes brittle.
Overall, a couple of solar panels seem way more cost effective than this entire setup
Just curious, could you integrate solar panels into a system like this? Perhaps with a second charge controller for the battery?
Yes; In fact the 8KWH inverter they are using supports 2 PV input strings (15:09)
I love this set up, you should do another video where you break down the costs and construction process.
My father passed last year and I'm trying to patch up his homestead. One of the tricky bits has been making sense of the hydro generator system. So this video is incredibly helpful :)
I'm 75, and have had a few similar comments on my hydro system : "when you die, no one else will be able to figure out how to operate it." I just tell them "not my problem."
@portnuefflyer exactly. And honestly, over the last 20 years that he had the property, the entire thing needs to be updated at any rate.
So I guess you are picking up approximately 12 Kwh of energy per day or ~360 Kwh per month. Not bad for free!
Not exactly free… what was the upfront installation cost and any ongoing maintenance?
@@darrenthumbsup2881probably 100 times cheaper than however youd get it from a utility company
@@darrenthumbsup2881you also need to know how many years or months it last for it to need maintenance
@@darrenthumbsup2881you also need to know that each maintenance doesn't mean you need to replace ALL the things every time there's maintenance.
The maintenance might only be a certain component or part that need to be changed.
No big deal absolutely worth it.
What brand micro hydro turbine was the homeowner using? Great looking system and very informational video!
Probably not Whirlpool, it doesn't look like a repurpurposed washing machine 😂
I wondered if it was a Kris Harbor thing.
My bet is Langston Alternative Power. Seth and Spencer have been collaborating for a while.
I saw a video where they installed a hot water tank to pull the extra charge off the system. This way you don't over work the turbine. There was a temperature monitoring unit on it so if it reached a certain temperature it would flush the hot water out. Kind of cool.
Its a great concept. For long term use. Transitioning to stainless steel piping for the length of the system. Weather permitted you can also use a heat tape to keep it from freezing in extreme temps. I love the concept! 😎👍
Awesome video, and great information... Especially for a newb like me trying to learn about these types of setups.... I love WNC and wish I had a place in the woods I could setup like that..
Thank you for watching. It's nice to know that my videos are helpful for educational purposes. This system really was designed nicely and working well.
@@LandtoHouse I'm not expert at electricity but that's a lot work for a mere 500watts so I have to ask : is it making 500 watts per hour, or per minute or oer second (instantly) because if it's per hour, it can power only a fridge, ceiling fan and a tv at max so not really worth it. But if it's at least per minute or per second it will be actually worth it.
@@karaabdelkader1273 500 watts per sec. = 500 W*h in hour or 12KW*h in day(24 hour)
Why not use a wheel that is cheaper and you don't need concrete in a creek bed! And can have a shaft that spins and can make your power with less material and maintenance
I just want to know why it couldnt be just used as a/c current why does it need to be downsized to d/c just to be upsized again to a/c this confuses me.
Forgive my ignorance as RUclips randomly recommended this to me, but is this permitted in any way? Most states are protective of the rivers, creeks, and streams that run within them, and for very good reason.
Here in Pennsylvania, a friend of my grandfather was looking into replacing the dam on their property and was told that they may only repair or remove it as the state does not allow the construction of new dams without a special permit. Granted this hydro system has far less of an impact than that dam did, but again: states are protective of their waterways.
In this state, we have permission to use a percentage of the Creek as long as it returns to the Creek. Farmers also have rights to use a percentage for irrigation. Dams are another story.
@@LandtoHouse I see, I assumed that the little concrete weir at the start counted as a dam/obstruction.
You know. I live in the suburbs, I wonder if you could hide the piping from the city and have your water coming in to your house go through a micro hydro setup before you use it lowering your electric bill lol
Do you not pay for water?
You are super good at explaining this. Most videos are confusing. Thank you
Does anyone know whether this is more or less expensive than the 500 watt equivalent of solar panels? I’m assuming it is, and I love that it works at night and cloudy days too.
I assume this would cost more yes. But as you said it has its benefits, but requires a significant resource whereas sun is plentiful.
But really, since solar only harvests part of the day, you’d need a 1000W system and batteries to get a similar result.
"Does anyone know whether this is more or less expensive than [equivalent] solar panels? I'm assuming it is..."
You are 100% correct! It is definitely MORE or LESS expensive.
(sorry, I could not resist! You said - I am assuming it is... Is more? OR Is less expensive? You left us hanging!)
great job! what was the total cost of this system?
Many thousands. rule of thumb: $1/W for batteries. $1/W for inverters. $1/W for system charge controllers circuit breakers and wiring. So, there's about $20-25K there, without the hydro equipment.
thank you
@@ruprectmonkeyboy1856
@@ruprectmonkeyboy1856 Its too small to make any sense, 500W? My neighbour has river running his backyard and his hydro turbine makes 17-21kW
I would have just bought solar and batteries with this money
Very clear presentation, thank you.
No mention though of the costs. Why not? Also, is the house entirely off the grid, or is this system just for backup? At a constant 500 watts it would generate about 360 kwh/month (which is a bit light for me) and @30¢/kwh would save $108/mo in utility charges. How long does it take a $1,300/yr saving to pay off the investment?
It's not always about being "cheaper than grid power". Grid power might not have been an option at this location, or it might have been $30-50k to run if it were. I can say from experience that battery & inverter setup was probably in the neighborhood of $10-12k, with the hydro setup maybe another $5-10k.
500W or ~12 kWh a day is no joke - that's more power over the course of a year than I use in my single family home. Supplement with solar as needed (and a generator for emergency backup power) and you're gold.
Depends on whether there's mains power available at the site. If you're paying for a long power connection there's a large sunk cost for that. First customer pays, and the connection is not yours. 2nd person in can just tap into it, essentially for free, because it belongs to the utility company.
@@Justin-C Down here if we had hills and water to use, that 500Watts would be just a drop in the bucket. Because the A/C is running almost all the time. Average daily consumption is around 67kWh.
Normally these systems get installed because of a choice. Run electricity to home, paying for poles, etc or go with hydro, solar and wind.
A well balanced system can provide total home energy and no taxes paid at all! That’s the most important part.
@@gravelydon7072 The consistent power is nice though. I could see using one of these in conjunction with a solar array.
Would Y pieces not be more efficient than the T pieces where the water exits the system and hits the generator? Great job on this system in any case well done!! I see a lot of questions on cost but with the way energy prices are always going I would say it would soon pay for itself.
I think the generator prefers pressure over volume. So it's likely less turbulent then it seems
I think more experimentation needs to be done on the impulse wheel. I feel there is more energy available than you are getting.
Perhaps a jet turban inside the pipe with thru shaft to the outside thru a 45 degree bend to generator.
Or, a turgo runner, instead of a pelton.
The problem with pelton is that it relies on head pressure, but resist the flow. Water has to slow down to get the job done.
It’s like getting lots of amps, but slow volts.
Very nice set up!
Having a piece of land with a lot of height difference and a creek has a lot of added value because you can get a lot of electricity, and its constant. Pretty good!
I would surely add solar panels too, and build an indoor greenhouse if I had that much free power.
500 watts all day long can probably run all appliances of the house you run each day while they are not on all day long.
Greetings,
Jeff
You can always build a mini-dam (just a tub to catch the water, really) to balance out the lack of a height difference - I reckon it's better to build it either way, because creeks don't have a constant flow of water year-round and you'd wanna account for that fluctuation.
@@YamiKisara Not how that works, you can't artificially add height difference, the energy comes from the change in height of the water from the source to the drain. This takes advantage of all of the 50ft of head using that pipe, which is superior to a dam. In terms of a small scale energy storage solution (since 500W isn't enough for most appliances, but averaged over the day and night ought to be more than enough) would be a battery, since a dam for energy storage simply isn't reactive enough to fluctuate to power, say, a toaster or something.
@@asdfasdf-dd9lk They can still use a reactive turbine for the larger creek/reservoirs with less head; Pretty sure it goes as low as 5 foot but the reactive turbines need a higher volume flow rate than the pelton turbine used in this video
500 constant watts over the course of a year at 14 cents a kwh is about $600 worth of free power a year
@@mattcintosh2 14 cents?
In Britain I pay around 45 cents per Kw hour. plus standing charges.
Thanks for an excellent video. I'm sure it's all been well thought out by people way more knowledgeable than me, but I have a question regarding the "battery full" scenario: If the turbine goes into near free-spin, and switches to high volt and low current as you said, then there's next to no load on the system. With commercial power stations that's a "no-no." Important and expensive things break in spectacular fashion. I'm sure the box is "smart," but wouldn't it be better to have a servo operated valve to shut down the water flow just to be sure?
Kris Harbour has a great channel all about this. He is in Whales and he builds his own, and does exactly what you said. He has servos set up that can increase/decrease water pressure and flow to the turbine, and if all hell breaks lose, it can even just dump all the water from a gate valve later. Pretty impressive stuff really.
@@80aj Hi, I follow Kris -- great channel. It's nice to see how different folk go about their Hydro set-up.
@@davidblake1663 My hydro system has a load controller that senses when the voltage starts to climb above a setpoint, it shunts the power to a dump load (resistors) to keep the turbine from over speeding. Mine does this when the grid goes down, if charging batteries, when the batteries reach float, the same thing would happen.
That intake system looks just like a miniature version of what was on this dam ran by Georgia Power that I grew up swimming at.
Awesome system, excellent coverage!
Hello Seth. I recently found a small creek that comes off the hill behind out house here in Alaska. It has a pretty good flow rate but is narrow. We would love to create some power to offset the days when solar is to low. We run a 24v system here with a growatt 3000 inverter and two 200ah lithium batteries.On average we use about 5-6amps an hour. I would love to be able to pretty much keep the batteries on float except at times we use more. Is this something that can be done? If I go towards the top of the creek it is around 250' above and 500 yards from the house where I want to create a pond for it to drain into. The creek goes below ground at the base of the hill and does not feed into another body of water. What about rises in the ground? Can this be over come by valves to release air that gets trapped?
Can't we get a cost estimate for the setup ? I guess if it is very remote it is irrelevant, but would be nice to know how much - especially the battery bank - costs
The batteries are $1400 a piece so this is a pretty expensive setup
@@davek2690yeah thats some change for those. Could dummy it up with lead acid or AGM batteries, but would need more and have a shorter life span.
What’s the cost of this system? Excellent video!
Wow I thank you ,I I followed you on Ram pump but this my favorite micro giriid I hope you to buid one in Genbu Nigeria and in my apple farm by God grace in the future
Nice vid. But it is all done just for the showcase: it's unreliable and temporal. Wood that gonna rot, pvc under sun , exposed wires and connections, li-on batteries that lose capacity after year of use. And the price of new house :)
How much would all of this cost to install?
I note that there is no data between the Midnight charge controller and the batteries?
This could result in an overcharge situation. (Though with cautious setting of the max charge voltage, this can be mitgated against, to some extent.)
Also, it would be better to have a 3ph breaker on the AC input from the turbine, rather than a on the output DC. Allowing protection/isolation from a failed diode pack. (I won't comment on the beer can heatsink!)
Interesting walk around though.
Can you please explain the beer can heat sink? Is it shown at a certain time?
@@sckirbyc1 12:12
(Might be Pepsi?)
Enjoy!
Isn't the point of the charge controller to automatically know the max potential of the batteries and cut off before it gets there? That's how my (very, very cheap, 10a solar) charge controller works
@@alexevans2891 The charge controller can only (usually) sense battery charge state based on battery voltage. That is ok for lead acid. But unreliable for lithium.
The BMS in the batts 'should' keep a record of the accumulated charge and then command the controller as required.
My own system does rely on battery voltage, and me keeping a close eye on it. So I am just as guilty. But I wouldn't recomend it for a fit and forget installation.
@@gonzo_the_great1675 Got it! I didn't know that about lithium ion. Thanks for the info!
You loose all the kinetic energy with that T pvc connection in the entrance of the turbine. Did a lot of good work, wasted it all in the basics.
That is a top quality system. I bet that battery cost a bit. But pays itself off. Well done🎉
I have friends who were quoted $85k for a mains supply. They were able to completely off-grid for less than half that cost, and have never had a power cut, unlike many of their ‘near’ neighbours on-grid.
Well I would say it's absolutely sloppy electrical workmanship.
People will be using 2nd hand EV batteries for this set up in the near future.
that battery isnt necessary for hydro setups. i wonder if they have solar as well because 12kw a day from hydro isn't enough unless they're extremely minimalist and efficient. if you have sufficient hydro power you can get by just fine with a much smaller battery because water flows at night too. solar needs huge batteries because of no power generation at night. similar option if you have a reservoir that doesn't have enough flow for all day you can use solar and open the water valve at night too to save on battery costs but that doesn't work with streams
For this set up what is an estimated cost for the complete build?
WOW such a small compact system that produces 3 phase a/c electricity is just AWESOME!
For this family way way back in the woods 500w is really doing them good.
It's likely not usable as 3 phase. Probably too high a frequency. This is the reason for the rectification, and subsequent inverter. If it was 60 Hz there'd be no need for that intermediate step. The point is, no 3 phase motors allowed.
@ruprectmonkeyboy1856 good observation. Yes the 3phaze would have its own phase position and not be able to connect (align position) with the grid phase position.
But
You could use it "dirty" to run many things. Like heating element, an old resistance light bulb is fun because you can sometimes see the HZ hertz cycle of the generator. 40hz to 60hz depending on the speed.
You would need/want an AC capacitor and regulator transphormer to run anything with a computer in it.
The capacitor should reduce any power surges and the regulators wa a a a w taped in before the rectifier will give you that clean power wave. 120v without the losses that a
@@scottadams3544 those small alternators don't typically run at 50-60 Hz. A PM alternator like that can't speed regulate electrically by increasing the torque load, so it's gonna spin at whatever speed it wants to, and create AC at whatever frequency it wants to. That's not usable in any other way than they way they're doing it, other than in a heater or incandescent load as you mention.
Your car's alternator is also this.
Former colleague of mine has a place in Oregon with a year-round stream. There's about a 300 foot change in elevation across his property. Not sure how much power he's making, but he's running his house and wood shop on a Pelton turbine. He's using firehose instead of pipes to feed his system, apparently hose that's considered too worn for the firetruck was available at a very reasonable price.
500 Watts constant delivery is impressive. it's enough for passiv consumers like fridges and can serve a computer. With battery together, it should be enough to run a whole household.
You are super good at explaining this. Thank you.
12KWh is a little light, so I think I'd run this in combination with some solar panels and get a hybrid charge controller. The consistent power output is nice though. I did some very rough math, and it seems the hydro setup would be about 2x the cost of a solar setup with similar daily output.
They also installed a few solar panels. Very wooded valley with little sun and big trees.
How can you combine solar power with hydro power? How can that lithium battery tower kick in during the night and overcast days, even though you're using hydroelectric off-grid system. How can you power the whole house with both solar and hydro power together simultaneously at the same time?
My hydro system is putting out 832 watts into the grid as I type this. Gravity is a beautiful thing! True story: they person I bought my Coanada screen from 16 years ago was named.....Bob Weir. No, not the Grateful Dead Weir, but another one "a low dam built across a river to raise the level of water upstream or regulate its flow." Kind of the description of a C screen.
What's your setup like and do you have a channel showing your setup?
@@oloyeadeniran8894 Not yet...
Can you send me pics of your system. Please my name is George estep.
Excellent, basic system, however, I can never understand why more attention isn't placed on the surrounds of the PMA - why not build a complete shed together with noise dampening insulation over the PMA and wooden raft? - this would provide protection for maintenance and keep everything in tip top condition....
----- TIME HAS RUN OUT !! John 3:16 For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life. Don't ignore this message... REPENT NOW !! TRUST that God raised Him from the dead !! By FAITH accept JESUS's blood alone as payment for your sins unto Salvation, to escape what's about to happen !!
Great video. I'd love to know what the cost of these hydro systems is.
Shopping for an off grid homesite now - land with reliable water that you have rights too is the biggest expense 😜
I have 8” pvc all the way to my two turbines ( exact turbines as this video ) penstock is 900 ft. I have the exact same battery bank as the video . I have the Schneider 6848 XW Pro inverter, Schneider Charge Controller. And PDP. Two turbines means two runs of wire 400 ft each, two rectifiers, power disconnects etc… I also have 20 solar panels for summer months when 5he creek slows. I also purchased a custom coanda screen and hand built weir. The grand total is right at 35 k
@@ktmrider7592 Thats not too bad.
@@leebertie57 I have done 100 of the work. That is zero labor costs
So how much power is needed to power the average home ? I don't think the 10 amps is enough, which is what the video showed as output.
A rough estimate how much would a system like this cost that could produce 500 to 800 W
You're looking at at least $20k all in with the batteries consuming a large majority of that. That rackmount battery system roughly $15k on its own.
Very nice system, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching! This install was so well designed.
Where would we be without PVC from oil?
oil walked so good and intelligent people could run. Thanks oil!
The electrical wiring all looks pretty sketchy.
Seems like the wire-nuts joining the alternator to the 10/2 cable ought to be protected in a box, especially in that humid/moist environment. The exposed rectifier just screwed to the wall is asking for trouble. And does that need a heat sink? Or is the concrete doing that? Exposed bus bars in the battery rack without protection is asking for trouble; a short there with the high currents available are gonna melt anything that comes across them. That battery to inverter wiring ought to tied down, not just hanging out of the top of the battery cabinet. Then the wiring in and out of the inverter is just hanging there under it's own weight and not tied down isn't great, either. The utility of those DC breakers, especially the DC power in and out of the battery cabinet would be greatly improved with some sort of labeling. So when fire/smoke is shooting out of something, you don't have to remember how that got wired up.
I'd think that just because you're off grid doesn't mean you should ignore normal electrical codes and practices; seems like the associated safety would be good to have.
I'm no electrician by trade, but.. I've added branch circuits, lots of current transformers to monitor power consumption, etc. Professionally, I've had to help design and operate large data centers and worried about UPS systems, standby generators, automatic transfer switches, etc. So I know enough to be dangerous and when to involve professionals. I think raising the bar on the electrical side of all this would improve the long term reliability of this installed system. And for the $$$ that someone spent on all those batteries, I would have expected a minor investment on the electrical craft work side of things. And I'd think the cost to have this be less scary is just a few hundred dollars.
Very good explanation of plumbing and electricity systems, good all around video. Thankyou for your thoroughness
Very cool. What kind of price is that setup?
I would 'assume' the hardest part is getting land with constant running water you put to work? And then any idiotic 'environmental regs' put in place by well-meaning fools.
You mentioned that a dip in the pipe would cause a partial air-lock and that's true but in practice the air trapped in the high point will eventually dissolve in the water and be carried out of the system.
Hello, watching and loving it all the way from Uganda East Africa. Which company made the system and how much does it cost?
500w? That's what my PC power supply is rated for. Doesn't seem like much power if all it can do is power one PC.
Very bad setup on the pipes, lots of bends, have it as straight as possible. And gosh that setup at the turbine, holy shit that is just terrible, full of 90s bends😂 And at least install a bypass at the main valve down by the turbine. Close that valve fast and your pipes will blow a joint or crack a pipe.
Brilliant....I'm just looking into this process....you explained that very well...thankyou
Please excuse my ignorance, I was fascinated by the video, but it was as if someone were speaking Chinese to me. I have no idea how much electricity costs where this is set up. I also have no idea how much this kind of system costs to purchase and install. Does anyone know how long this kind of system takes to get a return on investment? Thank you.
These systems all lose so much power with these bends 😮
That panel feed looks way too small for 100 amp breaker. Looks like #6 feeders?? What size are they?
Im mechanical inclined, and having watched multiple videos and doing research online. I would hire a contractor to assist me with a install. There’s a lot of calculations that has to be done to insure it meets your particular needs.
hello, it's not a Pelton wheel, it's a Turgo wheel.
bonjour Cristof, on toujour la maladie pelton .......
They use a Pelton style cup or scoop. The pma is a turgo style.
Too much cost for too little power. Lots of additional environmental impact from materials, batteries, etc. Is it located where the water freezes, if it is that's a problem too. Was permission required and was it obtained to do what was done?
Would it create more pressure and possibly more electricity if the pipe was 6inches from beginning to end?
Setups like this rely more on head/pressure than flow, so no - not really.
technically speaking electricity is not produced but manifested into this Cartesian space. nothing is being generated or produced
What if you cannot cement your hydro screen box in? Does anyone have a hydro system where is snows and freezes or do you pull the system out in winter?
I'm surprised that you're only getting ~500w out of that.
So there's no protection until after the rectifier, and no control on the generator? What if there's a fault on the line from the generator to the rectifier? Or even worse, a fault at the rectifier inside the house?? If you can't trip the generator or interrupt a fault at the rectifier seems like that's a recipe for a house fire.