I have the Garmin GLS10 and Garmin 93SV run on a Dewalt 6 aH 20 V battery and runs both for 4 hours. I have an Iconic 30aH for my Trolling motor and neither has run out on me. When I had a 1436 Jon boat I did run the Ionic 30aH battery to to empty and found out how recharge the battery.
Great stuff. I have been running mine off my starting battery that's just a srm24 that is 5yrs old. Its not perfect but it works until i can do all the research about lith battery. I run 2 102hud and a 7uhd the black box off start battery. I dont have any picture problems i just cant run all day i get about 6hrs. If i had to run live-wells i wouldn't last long. Live-well is a huge power hog. Anyhow I put my console unit to sleep when im on the bow that saves lot of power sleep mode easy to get in and out of. I ran #8 wire to all units and run on a separate fuse block. Just an FYI for guys that dont have the $ for lith yet. In my case its about time I have to do lot of reconfiguration to fit another battery and didn't want to take time when fishing is still good. There is another guy on here who reviews lith battery's and also he made a excel spreadsheet you can put all your units in and it will tell you the total power draw. I dont want step on your toes buddy so i wont post to his link unless you cool with it.
@@The_Garmin_Guru Here iis his video. I did all my EQ and with lead i would get 6hrs with lith i get 14. My buddy who runs lot of birds and live scope only get 11hrs on lith Those birds are power hogs. ruclips.net/video/Vz5XdDJGNm0/видео.html
I power my livescope black box with a 30ah lithium battery. I use a constant duty normally open solenoid as the switch to control the power to the BB. The solenoid is powered by the house battery and controlled by an aux switch in the boat dash. Turn the aux switch on and the solenoid is actuated and provides power to the BB. It works perfectly but I have never heard of anyone else using this method. All circuits are fuse protected and if the solenoid fails it goes to the open position so the BB and battery are both protected. I carry a spare solenoid just in case but so far I have not needed it. The amount of power the solenoid pulls from the house battery is very low and voltage loss through the solenoid to the BB is also so low as to be of no concern. Your thoughts?
Gotta ask and NO ONE seems to address this: Lithium 12V and Lead-Acid 12V are not the same. How does this affect the fish finder units that are rated for 12V? Lithium is like 14V at peak. Thanks.
I have 3 garmin units and a black box should I and can I run all my units on 1 independent lithium battery I have 2 93sv and a 106sv also livescope. Thanks!
I called Garmin directly with an issue on run time. I got 6 hours with a 106sv, GLS 10, and LVS34 on a brand new 50 ah lithium battery dedicated to the Livescope system. Garmin confirmed the amp draw and run time and told me 6 hours is correct. The battery manufacture said it would run 36 hours on their website and when I asked about the difference, Garmin rep said he gets 3 calls a day about this issue. The battery manufacturers misrepresent run times. I can only share my experience on my set up and what Garmin told me. Regarding the battery manufacturer, I’ve left messages and they won’t return my calls.
What exactly are you confirming? I did the math on what is printed in Garmin’s manuals which is 25w for the screen and a range of 21w-58w for GLS 10. If we split that at 40w and add 25….draw is 5amps @ 12.8v with a 10 hour run time. Do you have different numbers or actual amp draw? I’m wondering if my battery is crap. I reduced my screen to 80% and got around 8 hours today. Far from the claimed 36 hours the battery manufacturer is claiming….they won’t return calls. Next step would be to buy a $500 amp meter which is still not accurate with DC.
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I went with the ionic 50 ah and have had zero issues since. Thanks for sharing this.
Exactly what I’m needing!!! Thank you for this series 😁👍👍
Hey Guru good to see you back keep it real, stay safe 🙏
50amp Litime lithium for LVS34 and Garmin 106 SV. Perfect combo.
The Litime 50 Amp battery cost about the same as a 24 series Lead acid battery.
I have the Garmin GLS10 and Garmin 93SV run on a Dewalt 6 aH 20 V battery and runs both for 4 hours. I have an Iconic 30aH for my Trolling motor and neither has run out on me. When I had a 1436 Jon boat I did run the Ionic 30aH battery to to empty and found out how recharge the battery.
Is the 6 aH 20 volt enough to run the GLS10 and the Garmin 93SV?
I run this config on a Bonified SS107
Great stuff. I have been running mine off my starting battery that's just a srm24 that is 5yrs old. Its not perfect but it works until i can do all the research about lith battery. I run 2 102hud and a 7uhd the black box off start battery. I dont have any picture problems i just cant run all day i get about 6hrs. If i had to run live-wells i wouldn't last long. Live-well is a huge power hog. Anyhow I put my console unit to sleep when im on the bow that saves lot of power sleep mode easy to get in and out of. I ran #8 wire to all units and run on a separate fuse block. Just an FYI for guys that dont have the $ for lith yet. In my case its about time I have to do lot of reconfiguration to fit another battery and didn't want to take time when fishing is still good. There is another guy on here who reviews lith battery's and also he made a excel spreadsheet you can put all your units in and it will tell you the total power draw. I dont want step on your toes buddy so i wont post to his link unless you cool with it.
Post away brother. I have one spread sheet just never made a video on it
@@The_Garmin_Guru Here iis his video. I did all my EQ and with lead i would get 6hrs with lith i get 14. My buddy who runs lot of birds and live scope only get 11hrs on lith Those birds are power hogs. ruclips.net/video/Vz5XdDJGNm0/видео.html
I power my livescope black box with a 30ah lithium battery. I use a constant duty normally open solenoid as the switch to control the power to the BB. The solenoid is powered by the house battery and controlled by an aux switch in the boat dash. Turn the aux switch on and the solenoid is actuated and provides power to the BB. It works perfectly but I have never heard of anyone else using this method. All circuits are fuse protected and if the solenoid fails it goes to the open position so the BB and battery are both protected. I carry a spare solenoid just in case but so far I have not needed it. The amount of power the solenoid pulls from the house battery is very low and voltage loss through the solenoid to the BB is also so low as to be of no concern. Your thoughts?
would you suggest going with a higher voltage battery, maybe in the 16 to 18 volts range?
Have you seen a better image with a 16v dedicated electronics battery vs 12/13v?
I run a Dakota 23 AH direct to my black box and my 106 sv with 8 gage wire.
Thanks for the information 👍
Love my ionic batties also.
Is the LVS34 better in Forward looking because I put my transducer in Perspective and can’t tell what is Bass or something else.
Gotta ask and NO ONE seems to address this: Lithium 12V and Lead-Acid 12V are not the same. How does this affect the fish finder units that are rated for 12V? Lithium is like 14V at peak. Thanks.
Fish finders aren’t rated for just 12volts. Most are rated up to like 18 volts
Why did you stop using amped batteries?
Poor quality
I have 3 garmin units and a black box should I and can I run all my units on 1 independent lithium battery
I have 2 93sv and a 106sv also livescope. Thanks!
I don’t see any reason why you cant
Are you from Shreveport? I noticed 318 area code
Monroe area
What kind of charger for the lithium 30 A battery?
I would always use a quality charger provided by that particular battery company
Thanks!
Thank you
12 volt or 16 volt , which is better?
@@DennyTaylor-p1d no difference in my eyes
I called Garmin directly with an issue on run time. I got 6 hours with a 106sv, GLS 10, and LVS34 on a brand new 50 ah lithium battery dedicated to the Livescope system. Garmin confirmed the amp draw and run time and told me 6 hours is correct. The battery manufacture said it would run 36 hours on their website and when I asked about the difference, Garmin rep said he gets 3 calls a day about this issue. The battery manufacturers misrepresent run times. I can only share my experience on my set up and what Garmin told me. Regarding the battery manufacturer, I’ve left messages and they won’t return my calls.
Well Garmin is wrong. I can confirm
What exactly are you confirming? I did the math on what is printed in Garmin’s manuals which is 25w for the screen and a range of 21w-58w for GLS 10. If we split that at 40w and add 25….draw is 5amps @ 12.8v with a 10 hour run time. Do you have different numbers or actual amp draw? I’m wondering if my battery is crap. I reduced my screen to 80% and got around 8 hours today. Far from the claimed 36 hours the battery manufacturer is claiming….they won’t return calls. Next step would be to buy a $500 amp meter which is still not accurate with DC.
@@chrisscott8239 I think you're right, I believe most forget about the draw of the black box. What did you find out?
So I can run my graph and black box off one stand alone lithium battery
Yes sir.