This looks very promising. What a layout. 😮 When I built a helix I used tubes over the rods with equal length to keep the spacing level to level equal. No adjustments needed except for the first layer.
That's a beautiful helix, thank you so much for sharing. I didn't see your previous helix build video but I'll have to go back and find it. You're making a lot of really great progress - it's always a pleasure to follow along!
Thank you! In my first helix build video I talked about just using a jigsaw to cut out the helix rings works just as well as anything else, and can still end up looking good. Main thing is how it runs! I'm happy with how this turned out. Iain
Thanks! The helixes, especially this one with its east and west approaches, were really what's been weighing on me for the past two years of construction. I'm glad it's finished and it runs so well. Iain
Congratulations on the helix progress! I still think you should experiment on painting the framework white before you do much more work on that lower level, and before you put in the lights, just to see how much it will add to the light dispersion.
I'm not going to be able to sleep at night, knowing that extra washer is rattling around under that first helix ring... Ha, ha..On a serious note, why wouldn't you have started that first ring, 45 degrees counter clockwise, so the approach on the bottom ring would have been angled closer to the table approach track?
Hi Ian - Like you my layout is in N Gauge but covering Era 3 to 5, Southern Railways in West Sussex, UK. I am fortunate than others over this side of the pond in that I have a loft that is 40' long but only 7' wide with sloping roof, so it has its challenges. Ive always wondered what I would do had I moved to the states and had a large basement, so to a degree I am living my dream through you. First its great that you have converted to N Gauge and we can truly see how awseome a N Gauge layout will look in a large basement. Secondly it amazes me that you have gone down the 3 level layout route. I have hard enough time taking in one level let alone 3. Dont get me wrong I am not knocking it, I think its great but I just cannot imagine me being able to operate on 3 levels. Just your base level would have been enough for me but maybe a lower level just as a fiddle yard, but no scenery. Thank goodness I dont have to worry about a helix in mine. Loved the last bit, all those carriages in that rake, looks magnificent and even more so in N Gauge, sorry Scale in my opinion. Cheers Chris
Howdy from the Midwest of the USA! I cringed every time I read N Gauge in your post. Then laughed at your correction at the end!!!!! no matter how much space one has there never seems to be enough... Cheers!
Iain, is there a reason you're using 2 inch foam board rather than 1 inch board? You are doing a wonderful job on this layout. Thank you for all these very informative videos!
Hi Ian...I am starting to lay out my yard turnouts and track and want to ask you what track center to center spacing you use between parallel tracks. 1 1/4"? I am also using Atlas code 55 track. Do you use the #5 turnouts in your yards? Thanks for your help! Marc
Yes, I think I'm at right around 1 1/4" center to center for track spacing. All the mainline turnouts at Atlas code 55 #10s, and in yards are #7s. I wanted the larger turnouts for long passenger cars, and because I have the space to do it. They look great. I'm sure #5s would be okay, just take care with the lead in and lead out of the tracks so you don't create S-curves and straightlining the cars. Iain
Are you gunna put an access hole in the plywood so you can access inside the Helix incase you need to do work or rescue a train once the terrain is on ?
Hah, yep, I briefly talked about it later in the video. So much easier and quicker than trying to spin them all by hand, especially now that I've built two helixes for this layout! Iain
This looks very promising. What a layout. 😮
When I built a helix I used tubes over the rods with equal length to keep the spacing level to level equal. No adjustments needed except for the first layer.
That's a beautiful helix, thank you so much for sharing. I didn't see your previous helix build video but I'll have to go back and find it. You're making a lot of really great progress - it's always a pleasure to follow along!
Thank you! In my first helix build video I talked about just using a jigsaw to cut out the helix rings works just as well as anything else, and can still end up looking good. Main thing is how it runs! I'm happy with how this turned out. Iain
Making good progress. Helix looks great. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. I'm happy with how this turned out. Iain
This is fun to watch..you are making so much progress. I enjoyed the helix project, it came together so nicely. thanks for all your work.
Thanks! The helixes, especially this one with its east and west approaches, were really what's been weighing on me for the past two years of construction. I'm glad it's finished and it runs so well. Iain
Congratulations on the helix progress! I still think you should experiment on painting the framework white before you do much more work on that lower level, and before you put in the lights, just to see how much it will add to the light dispersion.
Second helix looks great!
I'm not going to be able to sleep at night, knowing that extra washer is rattling around under that first helix ring... Ha, ha..On a serious note, why wouldn't you have started that first ring, 45 degrees counter clockwise, so the approach on the bottom ring would have been angled closer to the table approach track?
Hi Ian - Like you my layout is in N Gauge but covering Era 3 to 5, Southern Railways in West Sussex, UK.
I am fortunate than others over this side of the pond in that I have a loft that is 40' long but only 7' wide with sloping roof, so it has its challenges.
Ive always wondered what I would do had I moved to the states and had a large basement, so to a degree I am living my dream through you.
First its great that you have converted to N Gauge and we can truly see how awseome a N Gauge layout will look in a large basement.
Secondly it amazes me that you have gone down the 3 level layout route. I have hard enough time taking in one level let alone 3. Dont get me wrong I am not knocking it, I think its great but I just cannot imagine me being able to operate on 3 levels. Just your base level would have been enough for me but maybe a lower level just as a fiddle yard, but no scenery.
Thank goodness I dont have to worry about a helix in mine. Loved the last bit, all those carriages in that rake, looks magnificent and even more so in N Gauge, sorry Scale in my opinion.
Cheers Chris
Howdy from the Midwest of the USA! I cringed every time I read N Gauge in your post. Then laughed at your correction at the end!!!!! no matter how much space one has there never seems to be enough... Cheers!
Looking good. Still amazed with your progress when compared with my club's build.
Job well done, Layout is looking good.
Thank you. It's fun to be able to run trains for such a long distance / period of time! Iain
Iain, is there a reason you're using 2 inch foam board rather than 1 inch board?
You are doing a wonderful job on this layout. Thank you for all these very informative videos!
i do like a helix. I have a 2 track helix and built pretty much the same way
Really Nice !!!
Thanks, Mike! This was a fun one. Iain
Hi Ian...I am starting to lay out my yard turnouts and track and want to ask you what track center to center spacing you use between parallel tracks. 1 1/4"? I am also using Atlas code 55 track. Do you use the #5 turnouts in your yards? Thanks for your help! Marc
Yes, I think I'm at right around 1 1/4" center to center for track spacing. All the mainline turnouts at Atlas code 55 #10s, and in yards are #7s. I wanted the larger turnouts for long passenger cars, and because I have the space to do it. They look great. I'm sure #5s would be okay, just take care with the lead in and lead out of the tracks so you don't create S-curves and straightlining the cars. Iain
Are you gunna put an access hole in the plywood so you can access inside the Helix incase you need to do work or rescue a train once the terrain is on ?
Probably, yes. That's a long way down the road though! The scenery will also be somewhat removable / lift off if needed. Iain
How can I get in touch with you?
Great work. What are using on the drill to spin the nuts down the all-thread?
NEVERMIND! I asked too soon before watching the full video! Great idea!
Hah, yep, I briefly talked about it later in the video. So much easier and quicker than trying to spin them all by hand, especially now that I've built two helixes for this layout! Iain