Hey just wanted to thank you for the video! My gator was running like a box of rocks. Some other dingle berry posted a video that just wasn’t right and had my engine running absolutely horrible. Followed this one and she purrs like a kitty cat now. No more falling on its face going up hills, no more rough idling! Plus it fires right up. She was giving me a hard time starting before.
Exactly Rex Notlob 1/4” (6.4mm) past TDC although I still do not know if that is 1/4 in past the Top dead center on the flywheel or on the blunt screw driver down the spark plug hole. I presume that it is the flywheel. FYI the intake valve opens just before the compression stoke. i.e. turn the flywheel over till the inlet valve opens and closes check the piston is coming up on TDC the tappets should be loose.
I really don’t think it matters since the push rods are not moving at all at TDC or 1/4 past. But I assume it as a 1/4 stroke of the piston down past TDC
@@MowerMike yeah 1/4" on the stroke. That would be the anal thing you talked about. 😂 . Thanks for the video, good job. I'm in Australia and this is my first attempt at adjusting the valves on my Kohler Courage 15. 👍
Hey Mike, I have the Confidant 747 and have had bent rods before. This time one broke and one bend. Replaced them and went to set the valve lash and only one of the 4 rockers move when I turn the motor. Is the cam wiped?
Just a word of caution on these Kohler Courage engines... I've twice had one apart and found a rocker arm stud had backed out (enough to unseat the push rod, which then gets bent when it gets caught against the back of the pushrod guide plate on a tappet upstroke). I'm replacing a pushrod on my 2010 SLTX1050 right now that suffered this issue. Now whenever I adjust valve lash on one of these engines, I remove the rocker arm studs, clean the threads, apply a little Loctite thread locker (high temperature blue, or orange) and torque them a little bit above spec. Then I let it sit for a day for the thread locker to cure. In the case of my SLTX1050, I had never adjusted the lash, so this happened without any post-factory work. But the other one I worked on... the owner had adjusted the valve lash. I think one of the causes is loosening the rocker adjuster nut without first loosening the Torx jam nut, which has the potential to break the stud loose from the head. I believe Kohler issues a service bulletin on this issue for some of the Courage engines, with a new torque spec for the rocker studs. Regardless, something to be aware of when adjusting valve lash. At a minimum, retorque the rocker arm studs.
I adjusted the valves on a Predator 1400 Generator just this morning, I thought I was stuck because one of the valves called for .00023 to .00039. My smallest feeler gauge is .oo4, just above the higher limit. I made a feeler gauge using my micrometer and tin foil. Three layers came out to .00027. I folded the edges down to where my feeler "Strip" was about 3.8" wide with the rolled edged on both sides. I use y needle nose to put bend in (Like a lot of feeler gauges have) so I could actually get in to where it needed to be without tearing or crumpling the foil, made the adjustments and it went just fine.
@@MowerMike It was! It took several tries on each to get it right. Those were the smallest rocker arms I've ever seen, too. The center adjusting bolt was a T-10 and the lock nut was an 8mm, but the arm itself was about half as long as my thumb. The valve springs were about as big around as somewhere between a dime and a penny. The push rod slipped out of place once. It was maybe a tiny bit bigger than a Bic pen refill. My needle nose was too big to get it back in place and I had to use tweezers.
alright so I have a kohler challenge motor Toro lawn tractor. haha, I am not an engine guy, so I didn't think about the valves. is this why my tractor loses oil? I am getting ready to replace the gasket on it, but I want to make sure that the gasket is the only thing I need to change. If I have to do a valve adjustment, I'm gonna need help. Thanks for the video and the food for thought!
It could be a lot of reasons but these engines are known for blown head gaskets. Check out my Kohler head gasket video. No just a valve lash off would not cause it to burn oil. It is either worn out piston rings or a head gasket
So that is the exhaust valve? The intake valves don't need checked? Mine took forever to start, got worse and worse. Then while running, put at idle and it died, turns over never fired up again.
Hello, I’ve been searching the internet for an oil filter and oil to use in my SV-720 courage Kohler engine. Do you have any tips on what oil to buy? Can it be just normal car 10w-30 full synthetic?
Hi there. I highly suggest using Amsoil 10w30 small engine oil. You can get it at the link below. But really any 10w30 oil will work. Key is keeping it clean. www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-10w-30-100-synthetic-small-engine-oil-ase/?zo=1360728 I would google your engine model number on Amazon and get an oil filter.
@@MowerMike there's none on this John deere cause the engine didn't go to the mower its a zero turn John deere tractor mower the original engine was a 18hp is all the guy said
Just opened my valves case for a head gasket job, valves only have on bolt in the center , no inner hole for a inner lock , how do I adjust a single screw valve?
We were getting surging and so on. Before I had chance to look at anything (like fuel filter etc) it fully quit and will not start. Occasionally it nearly catches but does not fire up. Found a cracked valve cover and under that I found a rocker had slipped off the spring perch and sat diagonal in the valley. I can manage it back onto the perch (but failed to think about TDC, will when I get back to it) but it just pops off just as easily. I have not tried to start it since finding this, or after realigning. And I have not had chance to investigate bent pushrod yet. With this lash set properly will the rocker come off the perch? Is there some other obvious failure that this indicates? I have not had the lash checked in at least 2 years, maybe more if the shadetree kid who did some work didn't look at this.
It will if the push rod is bent or the bolt holding the rocker arm is loose. Just take off the rocket arm and pull out the push rod and see. You got this
@@MowerMike I only did minutes of looking once I pulled the cover and saw the cocked rocker. Got diverted to some dirt work that was explained to me as being more important. And then a week of work. I think the rocker nuts were tight but I've been "researching" valve lash and getting TDC (the correct one) so I can hit it Friday. Thanks for the feedback and video.
I just paid someone to adjust the valves on my Toro zero turn and within 2 weeks it is difficult to start Doing the same thing again. What do you think?? Is there a point where they aren't adjustable??
@ TDC you should move the piston 1/4 of a inch down I like the theory of the card in a pinch .when you have weak spark ? clean the coil and magneto the gap is one business card or 2 playing cards lol or a new belt cardboard slip cover .lmao works all the time . Most people don't know the difference there are 2 top dead centers /If the valves are tight spin it over so you feel the play / then adjust them .as the motor will run not well .
I suggest pulling the valve cover and checking the valves first. Then maybe do a leak down test and find if you blew a head gasket. Got a couple of videos below for ya. ruclips.net/video/IuKllmVG4BI/видео.html ruclips.net/video/8GVQjABiGcc/видео.html And yep had to fix the owners golf cart but got some free BBQ!
Where did you find the specs? I have a Kohler KT730. Is it .005 for all of them? I’m having a hard time finding anything to tell me the valve lash specs for Kohler engines. Any help is appreciated.
Is this why my rip cord is snapping back after building compression? It feels like the engine builds too much pressure and the cord pulls out of my hand... my guess is there's now relief in the exhaust value... but idk
Commercial printer here for 35+/- years... there is NO standard thickness for cards. Don't use a business card. Also depending on your model engine, they do have replacement valve covers that use o-rings so no gasket.
Standard aluminum roof flashing is about .004" which is the middle range for these engines. A package of feeler gauges is cheap though. Better use feeler gauges.
Also make sure the engine is ice cold. Never do this when the engine has any possibility of being warm from running. I may have missed you saying it so i thought I'd comment.
Good instruction but I wud emphasize Mike’s point to NOT over-tighten the set screw (with Torx screwdriver). I’m not real strong (a senior) so I tightened it a second time to b sure. Disaster! The bit snapped inside the set screw. It’s very tight and I’ve tapped it, magnets, etc and can’t get it out. I will get a good metal drill bit to try and drill it out. If that direct vibration won’t get it out, I might leave it cuz if that doesn’t get it out, I doubt it will come out. Even if it does, I think it would just lay on the bottom of the valve cover anyway.
Youch, sounds like you are stronger than you think!!! I would just see if it runs as is and not take it out unless you have to. When removing stuff like that I found that left handed drill bits work the best. Just keep drilling with small bits working up in size until it grabs. Or you can try and cut a little slice with a dermal type blade and see if you can get a flat head screwdriver on it. Let me know how it comes out. Worst case you remove the head and take it to a machine shop and they can fix it for ya.
@@mikemcelwain I have no idea sounds like something is rubbing. I would pull the deck make sure all the bearings are good and make sure nothing is hitting under the mower between the deck and the frame.
@@MowerMike my brother in law has the exact same mower zt1 cub cadet 54 inch, we both have lost weight and his was doing the same thing. because when you push the pedal lift our butts trigger the sit safety switch,guess we need to eat more burgers 🍔
Lets see your wiring on that so i can see how to hook it up on this john deere zero turn with the steering wheel instead of handle bars i don't like this john deere i got might take off its weird steering wheel and front axle then no more swivel wheels
Howdy from a fellow Texan. Very helpful video...thanks for making it real easy to follow along. I've adjusted car valves, but never a lawnmower.
Glad ya enjoyed it. Is always a good check.
Hey just wanted to thank you for the video! My gator was running like a box of rocks. Some other dingle berry posted a video that just wasn’t right and had my engine running absolutely horrible. Followed this one and she purrs like a kitty cat now. No more falling on its face going up hills, no more rough idling! Plus it fires right up. She was giving me a hard time starting before.
Great news. Love the box of rocks analogy.
Great video. It helped me with the issue causing a no start
Cool glad it helped
Nice refresher. Been awhile since I’ve done. Never really forget but it is my first 7000 series. Thanks!
Sure thing, they all have their little quirks.
Thanks! I wouldn't have been able to do this without your video. Much appreciated!!
Glad you got it fixed! Glad it helped
I was doing it wrong maybe its my age mind needs valve adjustment. Thank you for your video.
You're welcome
The valves on my Toro Branco were T15. Other than that, your video was spot on and fixed my problem.
Glad it helped
Man thank you. Great information and to the point! Exactly what I needed!
Hey glad it helped!
Yes thanks🎉
so you can set all 4 valves at the same time when you find tdc?
No do one side and then the other side. You can only have one piston at TDC at a time
Exactly Rex Notlob 1/4” (6.4mm) past TDC although I still do not know if that is 1/4 in past the Top dead center on the flywheel or on the blunt screw driver down the spark plug hole. I presume that it is the flywheel. FYI the intake valve opens just before the compression stoke. i.e. turn the flywheel over till the inlet valve opens and closes check the piston is coming up on TDC the tappets should be loose.
I really don’t think it matters since the push rods are not moving at all at TDC or 1/4 past. But I assume it as a 1/4 stroke of the piston down past TDC
@@MowerMike yeah 1/4" on the stroke. That would be the anal thing you talked about. 😂 . Thanks for the video, good job. I'm in Australia and this is my first attempt at adjusting the valves on my Kohler Courage 15. 👍
@@MowerMike 1/4 past TDC because the exhaust valve is slightly open at TDC to allow compression release.
Great job Mike. Glad to see somebody else that doesn’t have to every step by “ the book” 🍺
Haha thanks brother
You just need to open fully the opposite valve. TDC is not required.
Thanks Ned
True you can but at top dead center, you can set lash on both valves without moving motor in between adjustments
Hey Mike, I have the Confidant 747 and have had bent rods before. This time one broke and one bend. Replaced them and went to set the valve lash and only one of the 4 rockers move when I turn the motor. Is the cam wiped?
Hmm not sure on that one. You may need to open it up and find out, can put new piston rings and gaskets while you are at it.
Awesome video
Thanks!
Just a word of caution on these Kohler Courage engines...
I've twice had one apart and found a rocker arm stud had backed out (enough to unseat the push rod, which then gets bent when it gets caught against the back of the pushrod guide plate on a tappet upstroke). I'm replacing a pushrod on my 2010 SLTX1050 right now that suffered this issue.
Now whenever I adjust valve lash on one of these engines, I remove the rocker arm studs, clean the threads, apply a little Loctite thread locker (high temperature blue, or orange) and torque them a little bit above spec. Then I let it sit for a day for the thread locker to cure. In the case of my SLTX1050, I had never adjusted the lash, so this happened without any post-factory work. But the other one I worked on... the owner had adjusted the valve lash. I think one of the causes is loosening the rocker adjuster nut without first loosening the Torx jam nut, which has the potential to break the stud loose from the head.
I believe Kohler issues a service bulletin on this issue for some of the Courage engines, with a new torque spec for the rocker studs. Regardless, something to be aware of when adjusting valve lash. At a minimum, retorque the rocker arm studs.
Great advice thanks for the comment
That's not a kohler courage.. kohler courage are single cylinder
@RickyShew yes it was. Courage was made in both single and twin cylinder..
I adjusted the valves on a Predator 1400 Generator just this morning, I thought I was stuck because one of the valves called for .00023 to .00039. My smallest feeler gauge is .oo4, just above the higher limit. I made a feeler gauge using my micrometer and tin foil. Three layers came out to .00027. I folded the edges down to where my feeler "Strip" was about 3.8" wide with the rolled edged on both sides. I use y needle nose to put bend in (Like a lot of feeler gauges have) so I could actually get in to where it needed to be without tearing or crumpling the foil, made the adjustments and it went just fine.
Those are crazy small tolerances
@@MowerMike It was! It took several tries on each to get it right. Those were the smallest rocker arms I've ever seen, too. The center adjusting bolt was a T-10 and the lock nut was an 8mm, but the arm itself was about half as long as my thumb. The valve springs were about as big around as somewhere between a dime and a penny. The push rod slipped out of place once. It was maybe a tiny bit bigger than a Bic pen refill. My needle nose was too big to get it back in place and I had to use tweezers.
I have a sv720, my valve rockers is way different the jam nut is behind the rocker and the hex is on the opposite side
alright so I have a kohler challenge motor Toro lawn tractor. haha, I am not an engine guy, so I didn't think about the valves. is this why my tractor loses oil? I am getting ready to replace the gasket on it, but I want to make sure that the gasket is the only thing I need to change. If I have to do a valve adjustment, I'm gonna need help.
Thanks for the video and the food for thought!
It could be a lot of reasons but these engines are known for blown head gaskets. Check out my Kohler head gasket video.
No just a valve lash off would not cause it to burn oil. It is either worn out piston rings or a head gasket
@@MowerMike thanks mike!
So, do you adjust all four lashes with this piston
side TTC
There should just be two valves per cylinder. So adjust one side with that piston in TDC and then set the other piston to TDC and set that side.
So the intake and exhaust valve lash are the same.005?
Ish’
@@MowerMike Rodger that thanks.
So that is the exhaust valve? The intake valves don't need checked? Mine took forever to start, got worse and worse. Then while running, put at idle and it died, turns over never fired up again.
You should check both if you remove the valve cover
@MowerMike intake is the same clearance? Its a 16hp Kohler courage
@@DucksSpitPPG Ya you can use the same, google it if you want the exact number.
Thanks for this.
Glad it helped!
Hello, I’ve been searching the internet for an oil filter and oil to use in my SV-720 courage Kohler engine. Do you have any tips on what oil to buy? Can it be just normal car 10w-30 full synthetic?
Hi there. I highly suggest using Amsoil 10w30 small engine oil. You can get it at the link below. But really any 10w30 oil will work. Key is keeping it clean.
www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-10w-30-100-synthetic-small-engine-oil-ase/?zo=1360728
I would google your engine model number on Amazon and get an oil filter.
@@MowerMike ok great, thanks for the help!!
Thanks, I have this engine and its been a whole bag of problems
I can relate but once you get the kinks out they run great. (For a few hours atleast haha)
I'd like to see what the square plug of wires goes to from the engine must go to something john deere doesn't have
Find the square hole and plug it in.
@@MowerMike there's none on this John deere cause the engine didn't go to the mower its a zero turn John deere tractor mower the original engine was a 18hp is all the guy said
Just opened my valves case for a head gasket job, valves only have on bolt in the center , no inner hole for a inner lock , how do I adjust a single screw valve?
I have no idea. Good luck
@@MowerMike hydraulic lifters, unadjustable apparently
Valve cover is it just the 4 bolts or is it connected to the heat shroud
Just 4 bolts, you got this
Just an observation: Is the throttle cable near the exhaust pipe damaged from heat? I had that issue on my mower. Great video!
Yep she is a bit melted.
We were getting surging and so on. Before I had chance to look at anything (like fuel filter etc) it fully quit and will not start. Occasionally it nearly catches but does not fire up.
Found a cracked valve cover and under that I found a rocker had slipped off the spring perch and sat diagonal in the valley. I can manage it back onto the perch (but failed to think about TDC, will when I get back to it) but it just pops off just as easily. I have not tried to start it since finding this, or after realigning. And I have not had chance to investigate bent pushrod yet.
With this lash set properly will the rocker come off the perch? Is there some other obvious failure that this indicates? I have not had the lash checked in at least 2 years, maybe more if the shadetree kid who did some work didn't look at this.
It will if the push rod is bent or the bolt holding the rocker arm is loose. Just take off the rocket arm and pull out the push rod and see. You got this
@@MowerMike
I only did minutes of looking once I pulled the cover and saw the cocked rocker. Got diverted to some dirt work that was explained to me as being more important. And then a week of work.
I think the rocker nuts were tight but I've been "researching" valve lash and getting TDC (the correct one) so I can hit it Friday.
Thanks for the feedback and video.
How many hours should I do this ? Thanks
I don’t think it is a maintenance item, I just check them if the engine isn’t running right.
Kohler engine manual suggests adjusting the valve lashes every 200 hours.
I just paid someone to adjust the valves on my Toro zero turn and within 2 weeks it is difficult to start
Doing the same thing again. What do you think?? Is there a point where they aren't adjustable??
I would adjust them again but pull your pushrods and make sure they are not bent.
@@MowerMike ok thanks
Thank you for giving me a lesson on how to do that
Anytime have a lot of other fun lessons on the channel
Is the engine hot or cold?
I always adjust them when they are cold.
really really great. Thank you. simple as I had hoped.
Glad to help
@ TDC you should move the piston 1/4 of a inch down I like the theory of the card in a pinch .when you have weak spark ? clean the coil and magneto the gap is one business card or 2 playing cards lol or a new belt cardboard slip cover .lmao works all the time . Most people don't know the difference there are 2 top dead centers /If the valves are tight spin it over so you feel the play / then adjust them .as the motor will run not well .
Thanks Rex good suggestion on the coil gap
Will this procedure work for a kohler cv732 ? Or do they use hydraulic lifters ? I need a response soon , thx
No idea just have to try lol
I have a 18 hp kohler courage started cranking really slow and starter getting hot won’t spin fast enough to start not sure what’s going on with it
Check the starter solenoid and ck the connection
Did you ever find out the problem
I have a kohler sv720s and it’s missing compression in one cylinder, any ideas? Also did you get that free bbq?
I suggest pulling the valve cover and checking the valves first. Then maybe do a leak down test and find if you blew a head gasket. Got a couple of videos below for ya.
ruclips.net/video/IuKllmVG4BI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/8GVQjABiGcc/видео.html
And yep had to fix the owners golf cart but got some free BBQ!
@@MowerMike thank you
Where did you find the specs? I have a Kohler KT730. Is it .005 for all of them? I’m having a hard time finding anything to tell me the valve lash specs for Kohler engines. Any help is appreciated.
I just google the engine model and find a manual. .005 will get ya close enough
@@MowerMike thanks for replying. Great video
Is this why my rip cord is snapping back after building compression? It feels like the engine builds too much pressure and the cord pulls out of my hand... my guess is there's now relief in the exhaust value... but idk
Hmmm could be. Usually when that happens something is causing the timing to be off
Commercial printer here for 35+/- years... there is NO standard thickness for cards. Don't use a business card. Also depending on your model engine, they do have replacement valve covers that use o-rings so no gasket.
I can’t argue that point, thanks for the comment
@mowermike where can I get the valve lash specs for a cub cadet st100?
Yes sir, that piston better be top center before you start digging around. We learn something every video 📹 noce camera angles ✨️
Thanks! Hope all is good out there on the road
Standard aluminum roof flashing is about .004" which is the middle range for these engines. A package of feeler gauges is cheap though. Better use feeler gauges.
Dang I like the suggestion.
@4:10... "Living in the meth house in woods, can't get amazon delivered"... WTH Mike 🤣
Haha you know eventually someone in that situation is going to be watching that video and freak out laughing.
Good stuff!
Also make sure the engine is ice cold. Never do this when the engine has any possibility of being warm from running. I may have missed you saying it so i thought I'd comment.
Exclamation point, I didn’t know that. Pure amateur here lol
Good instruction but I wud emphasize Mike’s point to NOT over-tighten the set screw (with Torx screwdriver). I’m not real strong (a senior) so I tightened it a second time to b sure. Disaster! The bit snapped inside the set screw. It’s very tight and I’ve tapped it, magnets, etc and can’t get it out. I will get a good metal drill bit to try and drill it out. If that direct vibration won’t get it out, I might leave it cuz if that doesn’t get it out, I doubt it will come out. Even if it does, I think it would just lay on the bottom of the valve cover anyway.
Youch, sounds like you are stronger than you think!!! I would just see if it runs as is and not take it out unless you have to.
When removing stuff like that I found that left handed drill bits work the best. Just keep drilling with small bits working up in size until it grabs. Or you can try and cut a little slice with a dermal type blade and see if you can get a flat head screwdriver on it. Let me know how it comes out. Worst case you remove the head and take it to a machine shop and they can fix it for ya.
Dude, have missed your posts!
Don’t lose faith. Have been busy working a pretty long complex video for next week
Thanks 🙏
Glad it helped !
Excellent I was needing the lash measurements.
Glad it helped
Koehler 7000 when I push the pedal to raise the deck, the engine wants to die zt1 cub cadet 54 inch
??? Is that a question
Yes doesn’t matter if mower deck is running or not, when I push the deck lift pedal the engine starts to die?
@@mikemcelwain I have no idea sounds like something is rubbing. I would pull the deck make sure all the bearings are good and make sure nothing is hitting under the mower between the deck and the frame.
@@MowerMike my brother in law has the exact same mower zt1 cub cadet 54 inch, we both have lost weight and his was doing the same thing. because when you push the pedal lift our butts trigger the sit safety switch,guess we need to eat more burgers 🍔
@@mikemcelwain Now that is funny!
Thanks
Anytime!
Lets see your wiring on that so i can see how to hook it up on this john deere zero turn with the steering wheel instead of handle bars i don't like this john deere i got might take off its weird steering wheel and front axle then no more swivel wheels
That mower is long gone, good luck
@@MowerMike i looked up Kohlers wiring colors and i should be set with that but mine are all fucked up
Do this on a cold engine.
Good advice but your profile picture is a bit scary, maybe time to start using some sunscreen on.
Thank you!
I gotcha Rickster
Yeah he owes you some free barbecue😂
Haha I got a free chopped beef sandwich from this video. We had lots of laughs over it at the BBQ joint.
Most business cards are 0.10" thick. Kohler calls for .005-.007 inch clearance.
Those must be some nice business cards! ;)
Lol. Business cards are not .100", more like .010" and under
My Kohler Courage SV 730, 25 Hp uses a T-40 and a 13 mm to do this adjustment.
Thanks Bill for the info!
That's a rare Kohler motor. I belive most of the twin Kohlers have hydraulic lifters
Hmmm never seen one with hydro lifters.
The Kohler Command twins have hydraulic lifters, the Courage twins have solid lifters.
I have a kohler sv720s is it rare?
@@Jacob.SpringerI don’t think so, that’s what I got
@@KILLER1PIE that was almost a year ago.
Wa Yea
Hydraulic u still need adjustment sorry
Mower Mike, you're a liar!! You said on the thumbnail, it was a kohler courage .. that's not a courage 20
Wow thanks for letting me know. What kind of engine is this thing?
Sorry to tell you but you are WRONG!
It’s ok, people tell me that all the time.
Can you be a little more vague? I mean that was almost a 6 minute video.
This link is not for a Courage 19 motor, but somehow the fucking algorithm keeps bring me back here.. RUclips is garbage.
I think it is your subconscious bringing you back, I have you hooked with my hilarious jokes and my gooddddd looks lol. R
Do yourself a favor and never use a business card to adjust your valves. Unless you like doing it wrong.
Is that why I can never get it right
I was thinking coil adj.