Scarpa Presents: Alphane 9A/V17 x Simon Lorenzi
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- The story of Simon Lorenzi on Alphane 9A/V17. Directed and filmed by Gilles Charlier, this video documents Simon's process and approach to climbing at ones limit.
Presented by: Scarpa
Supported by: Le Camp de Base
Featuring: Simon Lorenzi
Film/Directed by: Gilles Charlier
Damn him saying, "Oh that's right, I still have all the others to do" I got chills, absolutely incredible work Simon Lorenzi that was fucking awesome to watch
Was a little hesitant about this one when I saw how long it was, I feel like a lot of the 20+ minute climbing videos have felt repetative lately, but this one had such a good story. It was not just a bunch of clips of highpointing, falling, and then going home. The highlights on drying the boulder, cleaning snow from it, and fighting with your skin really made this one stand out. Loved it all around.
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this movie is a really cool change of pace from a lot of the other ones, it is super cool to see the struggles along the way!
I feel like they almost always show the struggle thats why people always liked their videos next to the quality production and music. Its just 42 minutes of struggle and usually its 15 minutes of struggle.
The soundtrack perfectly captured every mood of every session. Awesome job.
Thanks 🙌
This send once again shows, what I think many a climber has experienced, and only half-believed. Climbing because you want to climb instead of climbing because you want to send makes a big mental difference. So many sends are the results of "Fuck it I'm tired but I don't want to stop now" or "Alright, not the best conditions but let's give it a shot". The first try and the last try of the day always have something special to them.
The climbing is good but his sweater game is off the charts.
Best Mellow ever and probably one of the best boulder movies ever. Also completely in love with the soundtrack.
J'avais honnêtement pas trop d'attente; je trouvais que 42 minutes pour un bloc c'était un peu long. 42 minutes scotché à l'écran plus tard : c'est un des meilleurs films de bloc que j'ai jamais vu. Le son et l'image sont en parfaite adéquation. La qualité cinématographique est hallucinante. Bravo, franchement. Ça promet pour la suite.
Merci beaucoup, c’est le genre de commentaire qui donne de la force !
So insightful to see the entire process of working the boulder. Beautifully captured and climbed too
Bro climbed another v17 but the film for Soudain Seul still haven't come out
Soudain seul has now been downgraded to 8c+/9a after camille coudert’s and nico pelorson’s ascents I believe
Camille confirmed 9A but nico downgraded it so grade still unknown
Even raised like $12,000 for it 💀
@@bobbyfrai6745regraded 9a by Camille Coudert who didn't use the book under knee caps strat
We have a plan for it
Pretty amazing to see that there are talented individuals that still can push the limits of climbing.
What a beast you are Simon! I have seen him train in Le Camp de Base, he might be the next Shawn or Daniel! Good luck with Burden of Dreams. Great video as always by Mellow.
Man this is amazing! Seeing how Simon fights his frustrations and the ending is just incredible! The power of will and determination this man has. Also really nice cut the video is a masterpiece
0:37 Dang that is steep. Don't think I've ever seen a shot of Alphane showing how steep it is before.
I think Aidan Roberts who also climbed alphane was saying just that in some video. Something along the lines of the boulder is 55 degrees but it doesn't translate on video
As a relatively new video editor I must say, this movie is amazing. Truly inspirational. I have yet to see a climbing film with such perfect and precise flow, rythem and feeling. The music and coloring complimented the different moments very well, the breaks were very well timed and added a great deal to the emotions, and the montages (especially the one in the ending sequence) were beautifully cut and rythmic.
I will surely come back to this film for inspiration in video editing and for climbing many times in the future.
Great job!
Thanks dude ! Amazing comment 🙌🙌
Awesome process! Really cool to watch such a strong climber on one of the coolest problems out there.
Just happened to notice that there was the idea thrown out in this video that the solution to feeling weak during a session is to starve the body. Maybe it was just poor translation, but regardless it stuck out to me and I just wanted to add my voice saying that we should be nourishing our bodies with plentiful calories and nutrition to crush it during our sessions! The opposite can lead to quite harmful and sometimes deadly outcomes.
I think it was more about the quantity of the food than the quantity of calories. He says a bit earlier he doesn't want to drink a shaker tonight iirc. I think he just ate something fat or heavy and felt bad about it. Not saying you aren't right, I just dont think he starves himself. I hope so at least
The production value on Mellow video is second to none 👍💪
amazing movie! love the way it tells about all the hard stuff someone has to pass through and love the way he reacts having just climbed the boulder!
Thanks for sharing the process! One of the best climbing movies lately.
this is what i love most in bouldering videos... The process and send... Simple like that
Proud Belgian watching here. Amazing job Simon ! Ça va se savoir !
Wonderful video and such a pleasure to watch! I love the longer form content that provides deeper insight to the process and the ups and downs. However, I do think we need to talk about the comments made at 15:30. I know it is only a translation that I am reading as an English speaker and I could be missing out on context, but regardless, this video was translated into English and that is how many people are consuming his words. I enjoyed his attitude and watching the battle throughout the rest of the video, but I believe that there should be absolutely zero tolerance in climbing media for any language portraying "I am feeling weak and performing badly, therefore I will eat less". Climbing is obviously a strength to weight endeavor, and there is lots of nuance to be discussed on the matter as it is absolutely a part of the sport, but as a coach who has worked with many climbers who easily fall into toxic narratives surrounding performance and simply eating less, it is extremely concerning to see it in an influential video. I hope this isn't seen as an attack towards any individual, but just someone who is concerned about how dangerous these simple phrases can be.
It is a true fact of the sport that weight is correlated directly to how well we climb... there are plenty of times when you will "feel" heavy and bloated perhaps because of what you have eaten recently. I agree that we should make sure that everyone in climbing knows the risks of undernourishment and RED-S, this is important, but when you say "absolutely zero tolerance" I think we are just fooling ourselves. No one is helped when the influential climbers pretend it doesn't exist! I appreciated seeing the video honestly portray Simon's struggles and I would rather that than the opposite.
I'm only in the middle of the video but I love how the music reflects Simon's mood on the different days. Great editing job !
Quand il te dit que le bloc rentre demain et qu'il reste 20 minutes de vidéo, ça sent le pâté !
Très belle photographie et montage !!!
The Inspiration and the quality we are able to witness thanks to mellow it's Incredible, big up to them and everyone up to the great content here. I stopped to comment this, lets keep watching the movie 🔥
Superb film! Captured the surrealness of projecting on your limit whilst battling with skin, conditions and motivation perfectly! "Yeah but dude!"
Dude that was a professional ass film I love this channel
Its an independant movie, Mellow broadcasts it only. But it's really cool indeed to choose that kind of movie
Absolutely stunning work Gilles & Simon! 🔥
woah! really good film! storytelling, pacing, shoots, colors, sound....everything on point! really well done Gilles Charlier, chapeau!
Thanks dude 🙌
So beautiful, this video is everything I expected and hoped it would be 👏🏼 very well done Gilles & of course bravo to Simon for showing us that we all have the same thoughts and troubles when trying our absolute hardest on a boulder 🤙🏼 best wishes for the future to the both of you
Merveilleuse vidéo, merci à tous pour ce superbe travail et à Simon pour cet exploit !
masterpiece Gilles and Simon!!!
Trop bonne vibe dans toute cette vidéo ! Autant les américains font du super boulot avec leurs films façon skaters des 80's, autant cette prod francophone rend à merveille avec l'esprit de Simon ! Bien joué !
Chapeau for the climbing, but also for the excellent edit! Truly inspiring! The movie captures the essentials of commitment, focus, and sheer will!
Amazing location, climber, soundtrack and cinematography in my opinion, great work and kudos to all especially you Simon a great story.
Very well produced. Love the choice of music
42minute movie about a piece of rock? count me in
I first thought “do I really have to watch 45 minutes to see this guy send this Boulder”? But now I realize it was worth every minute. Great job and a great edit.
Cool video- but man did he not make the process look very fun or enjoyable. Keep rock climbing light hearted and FUN
perfectly crafted, mellow at the top, amazing persistence lorenzi
Superbe réalisation pour le film et magnifique performance pour le bloc... C'est toujours intéressant de montrer tout le processus de travail d'un projet, et non pas uniquement le résultats final de l'enchainement. La première partie du film où l'on voit tous les obstacles à surmonter (météo, peau..) contraste vraiment avec la seconde partie avec l'enchainement. L'important est de ne jamais lacher l'affaire!
Ces vidéos longues de bloc sont si bien!! Elle permette d'apprécier chaque détail de la longue route vers le top!
42 minuites , i learn more french here with mellow than at school for years, btw Simon is really really strong now
Bravo Gilles, magnifique taf
Merci !!
Insane work on Mellow as always
Really motivating! Tomorrow I'm heading to my project!
pure joy
C'était surbien, merci.
This is a f*cking movie Gilles! Amazing work!
Cool to see the struggles aswell as the good moments.
Sheer determination. Inspiring to watch
Una bestia enjaulada! Super strong!
Another amazing mini doc about alphane. Really cool to see really strong climbers work on really hard boulder. Really motivating! Congrats on the send!
Dear God of Rock, please make me as strong as this man and I swear I will never have PCB (Pre-Climb Bitching ) syndrome any more.
Ca me met vraiment une cartouche!!
That was dope!!!! Straight fire!!! 🔥
Tune in for your quarterly Alphane film.
so i just watched an awesome 45-min action movie... with twists and all. well done simon & the (mellow) crew
Thanks 🙌
Thanks for bringing us great French climbing, and honest and unabashed film making, music choices spot on, too. A1
Belgian
@@jonathanrossddsmhs1271 Thanks :) hat's a lot of trips to Fontainbleau!
Bravo pour la réalisation, vraiment du beau boulot
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It´s very impressive seeing Simon battling with this piece, the ups and downs. It´s an outstanding performance which is probably for many climbers a good mirror for their own battles.
Hopefully those don't take everything shown in the video unreflected in their habits. Taking ibuprofen to suppress pain is maybe common and ibu is not on the dopinglist. But it can be and it often is part of the unhealthy habit denying an injury. The message - exspecially for young climbers - could be: Don´t accept the borders your body is signing out. That shoundn´t been shown in a clip of a role model like Simon.
Fantastic editing
Really well made. Bravo!
Bro went a trip with 3 shirts only
The way to win is to make it ok to lose…
Congrats on the Send!
Comparing the psyches of these Alphane sends would make a fascinating study fr
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Ce qui est remarquable au delà de la performance c'est à quel point le mental peut faire la différence.
Sick movie, this was awesome!!! Main thing I need to know though, is where do I get one of those jumpers???
He will sold it one day , maybe hahah
Superbe réalisation 👍
Wow vraiment inspirant, comment ne jamais perdre de vue l'objectif, la motivation, la confiance et la concentration. Avec un peu de chance, du tape, de la colle et du Doliprane 😅
Congratulations 🤙🏻
One question
Does anybody know the Brand of the red Pullover he wears? 16:11
Looks super cool:)
Thank you
What a proces!!
Great video! Well done, all involved!
beautyfull film. like sending it!
No one asking for a downgrade has probably even climbed V10 lmaooo
V7*
Sick
14:14 is me every time I fall off literally anything lmao
Magnifique film ! Bravo Gilles ! Vivement la suite ! BOD ?
évidemment !
Another Mellow banger!
Editing/Music from another - mellow - world
42 minutes of psych!
Certified hood classic
Great vid
"terrible conditions last time, now again"... here in switzerland we just call that the weather lol. watching this end of december, its rained for literally two months straight here.
We’re gonna climb in one shirt, one shirt only 😅🔥🔥🔥
over 60000 views but only 2622 likes. Whats wrong with this all of this people?
Une machine 🦾. Je n'ose imaginer les perfs stratosphériques que tu auras le jour ou tu seras bienveillant avec toi même 😉
Holy fuck this was amazing
Great film @gillescharlier543 ! And great climbing of course!
The picture at 15:30 has a huge meme potential !
Bravo Simon ! J'ai de te voir sur Burden !
YESSSSS
Awesome video.... however I have some thoughts about the responsibility professional climbers have. Early in the video when things aren't going great, Simon ends up calling himself fat and frustrated, says: "tonight I'm eating really light". Later on he also takes pain killers to help him on the project.
Regardless of what you think about eating less and taking pain killers, I believe that it is the responsibility of professional climbers, who are role models to thousands, not to promote unhealthy habits which can lead to under-eating or injury. I don't believe that Simon is in the wrong for doing these things as he is entitled to train and climb however he would like. I do think, however, that these things should not be broadcast to the public. At the very least, if these habits are shown publicly, I think they should come with a notice saying that others should not do as Simon does. I believe it is the responsibility of Simon, the filmmakers and Mellow to not end up accidently promoting some of the most prevalent issues in our sport.
That being said...it was a great video and such an incredible send!
fire sweater
Id like to know what camera / lens was used to shoot this. I enjoyed the cinematography.
I used black magic 6k pro with the classic sigma 18-35 and tokina 11-16
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This thing soon has more repeats than Marie Rose.
In the future, bouldering will have so tiny holds, that you'll have to use super-glue to actually glue yourself onto the start hold.
When's the next clothing drop?
Great video! But can subtitles be little bigger and not yellow?
Okay I’ll do it for Burden !
Damn - the mental games are real. Projecting a boulder is so painful
Can somebody tell me what the font is called that is used in the edit ? Looks super cool. cheers!