Noisy PM2014 Wood Lathe? - Fix It Now!
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- Опубликовано: 2 апр 2024
- I demonstrate how to fix the root cause of the ticking sound that is frequently reported by PM2014 owners. It is easier than than taking to a service center! If you find my videos helpful, you can buy me a virtual cup of coffee with this link. www.buymeacoffee.com/mikepeace3Y
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Great info, Mike! Mine hasn't had the issue so far. But now I know what to look for.
Good to hear!
A few months ago, we spent time searching for the tic in a Waxhaw Woodturner member’s 2014. To PM’s credit, they would have fixed it, but as in your case, a service center is not nearby, they sent him a new belt and bearings! We first suspected it was coming from the speed pickup sensor, then suspected there may be a spacer with loose tolerance. Well, you solved that with this video, thank you! The “spacer” is the collar and now Marty can set his mind at ease. All machines are subject to glitches and failures…we used to argue Ford vs Chevy, now it’s lathe vs lathe 😂.
Glad it was helpful. Each lathe has its own idiosynchrasies for sure.
Great video! Great tip, thanks for sharing ❤ I suspect the screw you couldn’t get loose also had thread locker on it. That can often be overcome by heating the bolt with a torch or soldering iron. 😊
Unfortunately, that would likely damage the plastic there.
Thanks for sharing your diagnosis and remedies. We owners appreciate it.
Hi Mike! Great information. I had a similar problem with an outside screw on a different manufactured lathe. I have a set of left-handed drill bits. After rounding the screw, the bit took it right out. It was cross threaded. A new screw and back to work!
Take care, Dave
EZ out bolt extractors. I have some. Then I would have had to go looking for a replacement.
Very true! Lol!@@MikePeaceWoodturning
You took the long way around the barn on this problem Mike. Just drill out that lower panel screw and gain access to the part. Finding a replacement for the screw shouldn’t be hard. Or, use a temporary and order the screw from the factory. 👍
Usually more than one way to solve a problem.
Good fix Mike. When you were drilling through the top some of the casting, you could use a vacuum cleaner to suck away the bits from drilling so the don't go down into the machine.
If you do want to get that bolt out you could try an impact driver. Perhaps they are not that expensive to purchase.
I have an impact drive but the bolt would still strip I think. And one would still need to remove the spindle lock which has presented challenges to some going that route.
Vibration will loosen a lot of bolts/screws. Happened on my Rikon as well. Warm the frozen bolt with a heat gun/hair dryer. Tap on the Allen wrench before turning it. Should break the bottom screw loose. Hammer and chisel will also break it loose. Old (very old) mechanic tricks.
Good to see DYI fixes for problems. As for drilling through cast iron top, I saw where someone recommended putting a rag over the spindle to catch the drip filings. Good idea , but go a little bit further and cover the end of your magnetic pickup with a small plastic bag or saran wrap and place it under where the drill bit will come through. It will collect the filings and the plastic will make it easy to get off the pickup. I also agree with the red Loctite warning, blue would have been better. Cheers, Tom
Great tips, Tom. Good point about using the correct version. Package may have been red but you can see it was blue loctite I used.
Thank you for sharing. Maintenance/repairs many times is much easier when self done.
Very true!
Could use a magnet under there to catch chips, would be a good idea as now, you have some fine metal chips in there.
I will put my magnet stick in there. Thanks for the inspiration.
My turning buddy just unboxed her Powermatic. So I have shared the video with her for future reference In case she has the problem.
Crazy, I just developed a tick on my Rikon14x20 a couple days ago. It was the motor pulley set screw loosened up and the pulley was walking.
Glad my video helped you diagnose your problem.
Thanks Mike for a solution. Have had same problem on the 3520b. The collar that comes loose holds the magnetic strip used by the rpm indicator. I was able to remove both screws holding the electronics and tighten the set screws (after applying blue thread lock ) with a ball-end Allen wrench.
Nice to know it is a more “common” problem than I first thought.
Glad you were able to fix.
Mine has had that same tick since new...guess I'll have to check it out more....thank you
Thank you Mike. That’s a good solution to a common problem.
Thanks, Tim. Not sure why the set screw ever came out since it showed signs of having blue Loctite on the threads. I guess using the spindle lock puts some movement or vibration on the stop collar. I know on the 3520 b and c they made it part of the one piece spindle. The separate stop collar on our club lathe broke under hard use on the 3520a.
That's really good to know thanks Mike. My little 10x18 developed a tick that has been driving me crazy. I knew it was something to do with the drive belt, but never thought about the set screws. Hopefully that is the issue. btw. you don't need to lubricate cast iron to drill it.
Good to know. I know the drill bit never seem to get hot.
The same thing happened on mine very early on, we must have run across the same video, I used that method a year ago and it's still running quiet.
I think if I ever need to replace the bearings I'll drill and tap for a second screw.
It is a good idea to put a rag below , over the spindle to collect the cast iron cuttings. Rubbing the tip of the allen key over a magnet before putting the set screw onto it will hold it there and magnetize enough to stop it falling off. I have a small magnetizer / de magnetizer that I use quite often and they are not expensive. Mine came from Busy Bee in Canada but I am sure they might be available on Amazon. Yes they are on Amazon $12. 99 cdn
Great tips! Thanksfor sharing.
My Powermatic has been ticking for quite some time and couldn't find it. Great vid!
Great to hear!
Hi Mike, I purchased this same lathe after watching your video last year. I really like the PM2014. Mine came with the clicking sound & I figured it was just a normal sound. Now that I know, I will fix it. My main complaint is the start/stop controls. Last fall the start button started failing to start sometimes. I slowly got worse & I contacted Powermatic in January. They sent me a new switch which I installed. Less than 30 days later it has started to give me trouble again. Has anyone else out there had this problem? Once again I gotta say I really like my PM2014 & would recommend it.
I have not ahad any switch problems with any of my PMs but it is a fairly common issue with lots of lathes. Had a component needing replacement on my previous Laguna 1216. The early PM3520C 's had a batch of bad switches.
I had similar problems with my 2014. Even though I live in thr Chicago (3rd largest city in USA) there was no service center and Customer Service was completely unhelpful. I Chose this lathe because of Powermatic's good rep, but this lathe is not even close to their big lathes in quality. I was expecting a smaller version of the 2035, instead it is just an overgrown Jet 1224 (same bearings, even) Never again.
So sorry to hear you had a bad experience. I am still liking mine so much more than the Jet's I have turned on at workshops at the local Woodcraft and the Laguna 1216 I had.
This just one of the problems I have had with this model. I also blew up the speed sensor and that was a struggle with tech support. I think this particular model lacks the strength of its siblings. I have had it apart 3 times in two years.
Sorry you have had bad experiences. Safe turning my friend.
I saw you were using Loctite RED thread sealant. Be advised, if you ever have to remove the screw again, it will have to be heated with a torch to loosen the threads. How I know this is a story for another time. I don't remember if the info is on the packaging or on the tube itself. I only remember stripping the allen wrench and sparks flying when the screw wouldn't move. Be advised.
Good point about using the correct version. Package may have been red but you can see it was blue loctite I used.
...nice fix...👍
On another note, I picked up the Laguna 1216 about a month ago and have found that when turning pens at about 3K rpm, the headstock gets quite hot...have you noticed this on yours?
Thanks...Matt
You may need to adjust the handwheel as the tension is likely too tight. It uses a wave washer.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning ...thanks Mike...I'll check into that tomorrow...👍
Matt
Maybe assembled at a Boing plant.
😂😂😂😂😂
Your lathe must have built in the USA, have used sae threads and not metric as they now use.
Made in Taiwan.