Cinestill DF96 | Leica M6 | Kodak TRI-X 400 | 4K
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- Опубликовано: 1 июл 2018
- Minislist | Cinestill DF96 | Leica M6 | Kodak TRI-X 400
Shooting film has always been a big part of my life and sadly its hard to find the time to develop film because of how long it takes to get everything ready, plus the developing time.
Cinestill is about to change that with its new DF96 Monobath single-step solution which is a developer and fix in one and lets you develop a roll of film in 3mins!
Does it work?
Can you ready develop a roll of 35mm film in 3mins?
Gear used to shoot video:
Panasonic GH5
Panasonic GH5S
Panasonic Leica 12mm F/1.4
Panasonic Leica 42.5mm F/1.2
Audio recorded :
Panasonic GH5
Panasonic DMW-XLR1
Sennheiser AVX wireless system
Music :
www.epidemicsound.com
Tracks used :
Breathe
Heliolingus 
Кино
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I have used this monobath many, many times, I develop for about 7 minutes, never check the temp (room temp). Agitate 15 seconds every minute. Always came out great.
I have tried to develop 3 rolls with Cinestill Monobath DF96 and Lab Box, and I have damaged all 3 rolls, I do everything according to the manual, and the videos I have seen on the internet, and the film is not revealed, the emulsion remains stuck to the film, the product is new, any suggestions? Thanks in advance
Sold me. I can't believe this is possible! Almost laughable this is a real thing thinking back to hours spent in the darkroom. Thanks for the video.
what a great camera and film combo. one can never go wrong there!
really need to try this monobath.
this could save me hundreds!
thanks for sharing
Great video, mate! I'm actually interning at CineStill this summer, and it's great to see that people are enjoying using our new developer!
Awesome product, very happy with the results. Next step is to try some Cinestill BWXX
Hey Andre, just watched your Rolleiflex video. Nice work and love the photos :)
Darryl, I think you are really going to like the BwXX! And thank you for the compliment on the Rolleiflex video.
Great video, thanks! Interesting to see the results, and IMO they look pretty good. My bottle is on the way now so I’ll be testing some myself soon.
really enjoyed watching this.
i am really curious to try the new cinesitll monobath!
thanks for sharing
This demonstration was better than all of the popular, popular guys.. Much appreciated .
I usually use 3 liquids, developer, bath and fixer. I did not know about this product. I'm going to give it a try.
Thanks for sharing.
This chemistry is now available in dry form packets, much cheaper (and safer) to ship.
@Andrea Taverna what is? Why?
I loved it! Great video! I'm going to develop a black and white roll of film right now
Great video, really interesting, thanks a lot ! 😄
I just bought a bottle! Can’t wait to use it!!
Awesome, let me know how you get on 😀
Great run through!
Great videos Darryl,, I have only shot film a few times, always been digital. After seeing a few of your videos it has giving me inspiration to take the plunge into shooting more film.
Awesome, do you have a film camera already ?
@@DarrylCarey Yes I have been lucky, A friend gave me his Pentax K1000 which I have used. I am looking at a Nikon FE purely cause I have more AIS lenses.. I have a couple older cameras, Agfa Flexilette, kodak Duaflex which I have no idea how they work. lol..
Brilliant mate, thank you.
Getting ready to try this for myself so I would like to see how you remove the film from the cannister, load it onto the reels and use the Paterson developing tank. I enjoyed this video and liked the results from both films, leaning a little towards the TRI-X though. Regards Tony in Michigan.
Excellent video! I can see this saving people a lot of time and encouraging more people to shoot film. I’ll have to get my hands on it at some point. Thank you for sharing your results! The photos were nice 👍
JCH Street film: Cinestill says to rate its ISO at 200, not the 400 box speed. That has to do with the film (overrated speed) rather than the chemical.
so there’s no pre-wash? This is magic!
Than You Sir , Awesome Video
Most welcome and thanks for watching
Good video, great results! Stirring it(instead of rocking it up down) is nice tip. Doing two rolls at a time is also a great tip! Need it for B/W as well. Trying to see if there is a difference doing it this way v/s shooting digital, converting to color. Essentially to know if B/W film will be closer to B/W digital back(16 bit) which are expensive, and not all cameras support b/w digital back.
Awesome and informative video. I think its pretty cool I have those two exact film cameras. Got the F100 as my first film camera a few months ago and got the M6 last month. Been obsessed shooting them and bought DF96 to develop at home for the first time. Thanks for sharing!
oh! thats the Tech Ingredients music!
he makes amazing stuff
Thanks for this!
i use this all the time for 35 and 120.. it works well.
Got a few rolls I need to develop this afternoon, do not think I could go back to the old way of developing B+W
Although i use still the dev/stop/fix/bath routine, this is a nice but not perfect solution for situations when you are in hurry. For grain, contrast and characteristic it is not my most preferred solution.
I recommend a final bath in distilled water (not just deionized water). Then you need no squeegee or soapy fingers to eventually destroy the soft emulsion because there are no residues in the distilled water that can leave stain on film...
this was great. thank you
Wonderfully interesting video RS
Thanks for your video. I watched it today before trying the monobath myself. I used it for Ilford HP5+ (shot at ISO 400) @ 24°C for 4.30 min, and the pictures turned out just fine. Definitely finer grain than with Rodinal. The product sheet says, you can use this product "at room temperature" (between 21 and 27°C), you only have to adjust the time accordingly. At 24°C 4 min. are recommended, I gave it a few seconds more... Tip: Use of wetting agent after the wash is also recommended in this case to avoid drying stripes (a few drops of rise aid for your dishwasher will do the same). Not recommended: Using a squeegee, risk of scratches on your negatives.
Now I'm not new to shooting film, but I'm 100% new to developing it. This new chemical really allows me to dip into uncharted territory so I would Definitely be very interested in how you load your film into the cannister! Also an extra steps you may have. This chemical is bringing about a new gen of photographers that I think your videos will become very popular with! Subscribed!
I think you get a dark bad, put the canister inside with the coiler and what ever you call the bucket thing, zip it up, pop open the ends of your film canister, the take out the film strips by the edges. the coil has one insertion bay that you run the end of the strip through, be aware to make sure the holes in the edges of the strips are running through the teeth before the insertion bay. you then twist the edges of the coiler till you can't feel any of the film strip hanging out. put the coiler into the bucket and not sure from there, i'm pretty sure there's two components one being the light sealer and i think a rod that holds it in place.he put up another video about it
Actually preferred your shots of Aucks using the JCH StreetPan. Really glad this developer and fix all-in-one stuff exists, I may have to start shooting film again... Where's that Minolta?
thanks for this video. I'm really thinking on getting an M6 with 50mm summicron too. looks like such a great setup
Its an awesome setup, check out my latest video on the brand new Voigtlander 50mm f1.2 Vm for Leica Mount
I would actually like to see how you load the film into the tank!
Nice & Thanks :)
The squeegy you buy from Patterson or whatever is just a plastic claw with cloth or sponge.... so if you use a micro fiber cloth instead of the squeegy goes the same way. Another thing, if instead of leting your tap run for 4 to 5 minutes, if you do the Illford Bath, you rinse it and clean it just the same, but you are more eco friendly and save water.
It has to soft rubber blades for removing the water, I'm testing a different way with the Monobath as not a 100% with the results I got, plus going to test it on Kodak T-max 100 from my Mama 645.
fuck the ecosystem !
I used a 1 year old open bottle with no degredation after running 5 rolls through it before sealing it. So the 2 month thing is bullshit. Same with E6 developers ive used some that i put in the bottle 10 months ago and used for 20 rolls of film and still work the same. People are probably throwing out film developer that is still good
They probably just want you to keep buying more lol
I would love to see how you do that!!
They also sell this in powdered form which might help with shipping cost and may allow you to make up smaller batches.
hi Darryl, just wondering if you got around to making the video on how to load the fil into the tank
Just uploaded a video on how I load film.
I have some concerns about inconsistency after the first use of the chemical. Also, while some fixing issues might manifest themselves by inspection, inadequate fixing might lead to the negative not "aging" well. Again a consistency concern. From your scans, it appears that the grain is different than when Tri-x is developed in something like D76. Was the grain really as large as it appeared in "some" of the scans?
Lok Cheung photobombs the video!
Great video!
Can you still push and pull film with DF96. If so, what are the time adjustments.
I believe you can, but have yet to test the MonoBath that way.
you can by adjusting the temperature
Important photos on a film camera hehe
More film videos, Daryl!!
Hi Douglas, more film videos coming soon
Good stuff. I am researching this tonight. I noticed you did not rinse prior to nor after using the Df96?
Was that 600ml total product for the two rolls you used in the video?
300ml for 1 roll of 35mm, 600ml for 2 rolls of 35ml and 500ml for 1 roll of 120 film
Interesting test of a dev/fix that I came across recently too. Question.. how did you find the grain and tones from the CF96 as compared to negs dev's through say D76, or another 'regular' dev'?
Another thought is I used to put all 600ml of dev into a double tank in one go, so the dev time isn't different for the lower and upper reels.
But this easy to use chemical certainly makes me want to shoot and dev the few rolls of Tri-X I've got hanging around!
Hi Andrew, I did not notice any more grain but the tones are a little darker .. but nothing too worry about. I did think about the 600ml after I finished the video, it would have been much better to put the whole 600ml in at once. I'm very happy with the CF96 and I know I will be shooting more film now which is a good thing.
When you buy this bottle of DF96 Monobath before opening what is the storage temperature that is required in case if you buy more than one. Storage Temperature not developing temperature?
What 120 camera are you using? I was thinking of getting a Hasselblad
Hi Jason, hope you are well. Mamiya for now :)
Highly recommend Mamiya m645 1000s. Great camera.
Lok!
hi , i was surprise when you were using the patterson its best to turning than lift ? Tested ?? Thank you .
Been using the same tank all this time, develop 1 to 2 rolls per week
It seems that the streetpan have more contrast. What do you think?
I'm not a big fan of JCH anymore, I think TRI-X is a much better Black and white film
Great video, some parts of my film came out bubbly as if you can see bubbles within the photos? Anyone know what I might be doing wrong?
Ty.
I have never had any problems like this, was the film stored in a cool dark place?
Could it be air bubbles sticking to the film? If so you should give the tank a firm tap to dislodge them and if you use inversion agitation do it each time after inversions. Aggressive agitation makes lots of air bubbles.
Hi Darryl, Thank you for your video. Please, do you mind showing us how you load the film into the reel? I know you say its boring but that information would be very helpful to us first timers. Thank you!
Should have a video up before Christmas :)
@@DarrylCarey thank you!
Darryl, just wondering if you ever got to making the video on how to load a reel. It has been impossible to find any directions online. Please help
Hi @@TitilolaBenson , sorry been busy planning an overseas photo shoot. Will try to get on to this over the next week or so :)
@@DarrylCarey cheers happy holidays
You need to review the basics Darryl ;-) Some important things are missing in this video: water temp, roll fill... and never add chemical in 2 steps! You must hit the Paterson on the ground to remove bubble in it and empty as quick as you can et go to the water bath quick too at the same temp as chemical. Then, use a washing bath to remove the dry print onto the film (as you do in dishwasher) Friendly said of course.
hi, can you tell me where I can buy it in Europe?? UK or anywhere else is fine!
Thanks!
Jch half box speed meter for the shadows !!
That rule will save you the ball ache of th e zone system it renders it useless! !!
But of course I am trying to teach you to suck eggs am I not :)
On another note! Just bought some DF96 on your recommendation;)
Thank you very much for doing this test, it has saved me a lot of time and expense, your results are a bit flat that I will not be buying this product. Now where is my D76. P.S. if you decanted the original 1ltr. into two 500ml. bottles would you get twice the amount of rolls developed?
Why in the world would you think that? I'd like to know how your thinking on this works. The specific answer is No. If one liter has enough active agents to develop 16 rolls, then 1/2 liter would have half as much, doing 8 rolls.
@@randallstewart175 I do not remember asking you any questions. I frequently develop 2 rolls of 120 film in a Jobo tank in the same amount of chemicals ( 500MLS. ) as it takes to develop one roll of 120 film ( 500MLS. ) My question was a valid one to the producer of the video.
Well if you already developing by yourself this product is not for you. It is meant for those who are just starting or need something to do quick development for example in trip.
If I have a color film will work ore is going to mek it black and white?
So it has develop and fixer in one bottle correct?
yes
This is very simple but did you mix it for three minutes continually? Have you tried this developer with Kodak 120 film?
Mix for the whole 3mins, works great with Kodak T-Max and Tri-X
Are you in NZ? Do you develop your own colors film as well? Do you have any suggestions of finding C41 chemicals?
I'm in Auckland at Metro Gallery, C41 is a hard one to develop at home and to get good results everytime. C41 is much cheaper to get developed because it is done by machine. Where are you in NZ ?
Darryl Carey I am in Auckland as well. Oh Metro gallery I think I’ve met you before. Remember last year when you are still in relationship with black and white box and I went there to pick up my first roll of negative. And I was using a Nikon strap on a canon ql17. Anyway actually I am doing my own C41 at home right now. But there is only one seller on eBay shipping C41 chemicals which is unbelievably expensive (about 500g of powder shipping from the US charges me 37NZD? And the shipping doubles or triples when I ask for combined shipping two or three packages). And the chemicals I purchased from them last time is running out now so considering renewing. Anyway after many emails to different shops and even labs I could not find any home developing kit which is sad. And I am considering purchase from China and ship to here maybe?
Yes I remember you, can you come in and have a chat ? Will buy you a coffee :)
Darryl Carey What’s your open time on Saturday?
8am to 2:30pm
Put them in a centrifug,, old one,,, in full speed ..and you dont have any callsium left on film, dest is Expency,, Best Regards from Good Old Cold Sweden
Is there any decline in quality with the developed films as you re-use the chemical?
I saw that there can be but the use of these bottles were 2months anyway so Im sure it's not huge decline if any
My jug of DF-96 was working 7 months after opening. FYI.
😱
Hi, Looks pretty grainy! What scanner are you using?
I used the Epson V800 Scanner
You got a typo in title of this video. It should be “Df96”, not “Cf96”. Great demo. Cheers!
Thanks for the info ... fixed now :)
What about temp cooling over the 3 mins. I see you are wearing a jacket and 80degrees will cool off over the 3 mins. , more with intermittent agitation and certainly as you reach the 8 mins. time as the monobath degrades with each use.
Hi Darryl, good to see another Kiwi on youtube. Wonder if you can help me, been thinking of setting up a youtube channel for a while and was wondering if you can tell me what website you are using for the views and subcribers to build your channel.
Always happy to help Nate. My channel is 100% organic and has taken a lot of hard work to build my little channel. I know you can buy views, subscribers etc, but thats not a good thing as the channel could be removed by YT. If you are thinking of doing your own channel, we have Lok Cheung coming back in August for another Vlogging workshop :)
Where do I find out about the workshop and what is the price
Hi Nate, we be on the website in a few days. www.metrogallery.co.nz
03:12 you can feel the weight of the camera
Store it in a refrigerator so you can use it up to a year after opening.
I shot a roll of JCH at 400 ISO using my M6 and tried out the Cinestill Df96 developer. According to the instructions, I used the Normal method 4min at 75F (30s and then 10s every minute). The film came out severely underdeveloped. I had to throw the whole roll away...garbage.
Hi Bhinesh, sorry to hear you had problems ... I have never had this happen to me ... But I do other expose my film by 1 stop
I agree that agitation by inversion of the Patterson tank introduces way too much air into the developer, particularly if you are reusing it as here. But agitation by spinning the reel in the tank gives unequal agitation of film on the outside of the reel compared to film at the inside of the reel, which may cause uneven development. The bottom line is that the Patterson tank system is poorly designed compared to other plastic tanks like the AP (also branded under other names) tank and steel tanks and reels, which agitate by inversion and for the most part don't leak. Over a couple of decades, I have had occasion to use a variety of Patterson darkroom equipment items, and they have all been poorly designed and cheaply made. Ex.: You can get headaches trying to focus an enlarger with either of their grain magnifiers; I gave mine away. At one time they sold interesting new developers, but they dropped that when they got into financial trouble. Fairly warned.
I inherited a Paterson tank/reels but never used it. I've always used SS tanks and reels and traditional B&W processes. If something seems to be too good to be true it probably is. Wonder what the longevity of the negatives will be with this process.
@@eminusipi Monobaths like df96 have been around since the 1940s, although not normally available at retail. df96 sort of fulfills the adage that over time, whatever is old becomes new again. You can review its detailed imaging performance against other common developers on the Cinestill website, and df96 does a very credible job, compatible to D-76. Basically, this is just a developing agent and a fixing agent in the same solution, each doing its job, but balanced so that the developer reaches an acceptable negative density before the fixer dissolves the remaining emulsion. df96 is marketed as a one time. one temperature fits all, so all films can be processed together. That is basically untrue. A review of the detailed instructions for use on the CS website. shows that some film ISO has to be changed, some films require extra long times, etc. If you are scanning negatives for digital display of printing, the intervening digital scanning process provides the image adjustments you might require, but if printing in a darkroom, df96 negatives may or may not appear optimum. I think you would have to fine tune the development process as much as for any other developer. The remaining issue for df96 is cost of use. Bottle opened, it has a short shelf life, and the exhaustion from use rate is such that you are spending about $1.25 US per developed roll. assuming that you use it most efficiently (before shipping cost). .That is 3 - 4 times the cost of using conventional chemistry, and puts a pretty high price on its convenience.
Show the loading...that's the part that intimidates me.
looks quite grainy - a comparison with a traditional developer would be cool
If you think your JCH was underexposed, that's probably the film, not your metering. Every video trial testing JCH shows that the true film speed is more in the area of 100, not 400, no matter which developer you use.
i would buy this stuff now is it wasnt for the shipping :/ its over 50$ for me :(((
Did you check out BH Photo online store ?
@@DarrylCarey oh cool I didn't know it was on there and shipping is only $9.10 thanks!
Just need to get tank and a darkroom bag thing and I'll finally be able to develop my own!
lastgen boi I ordered some the other day and also got 35mm film. Go for a Paterson tank and bag, I have found them to be the best for the money. Check out my other video on how to remove 35mm film and load the tank.
@@DarrylCarey will do, thanks again and I subbed
@@DarrylCarey hey, I got my developer in the mail.
I went to open the bottle and it gave me the most crazy static shock I've ever had! Went up both arms and I felt that through my whole body. Kinda spooky
Sounds great, until you come back to your negatives in like 4 years time and find out theyre faded because they don't have proper fix applied to them.
hm he didn’t go over temp or really use the instructions
Hi Cindy, all the temp and instructions are on the bottle in great detail :)
is it only one chemical?
Yes, it's called a monobath and it's indeed doing both the development and the fixing in one go.
(More technically though it's a mix of several chemicals plus enough water for the mix to be properly diluted from the start, making it ready to pour staight from the jug into the developing tank.)
I’m a skeptic of this new process, and everything I’ve seen done in it is terrible sans the JCH which is nothing more than old Agfa surveillance film, made in fresh rolls. I’ll stick with Rodinal 1:100 semi stand, and just got back to D-76 1:1 shooting Tri-X for thr county historical commission with the F5, and ark of lenses. N90s seems to do better in lower lighting, than the F5.
Looking forward to your review of your Nikkor lenses.
Rather see the scanning process into the computer
I'm new to the Epson V800, so I did not use any special settings.
Tried it but overpriced and once mixed short shelf life. If I could store it under the sink for 5 or 6 months would consider another try, but the price is to high. I can get a HC-110 concentrate so much cheaper and get better result in five minutes.
Why professional film photographer's photos are not grainy but when we shoot film it's always grainy !!!!
That is one of the great questions, some of it does come down to the fact back in the good old film days the labs did a much better job and its very hard to find a good lab these days.
13:50 WHAT"S LOK DOING THERE!
Yes that's Lok, his a good friend :)
I meen destilerat water,,, Sorry for my swedishenglish
thanks Sune :)
I am not sure why everyone is fancying JHP Street film? What is special about it? Many labs refuse to process it anyway
Hi Oliver, JCH is different type of B&W film which is great for street photography. In the limited world of B&W 35mm and 120 its nice to have something a little different.
@@DarrylCarey I understand. It gotten somehow more popular than films by lomography within no time.
If you are going to make a video on a new product surely you would have a larger brakes than the one you used to poor into the tank.Heavens forbid ! One continuous pour into the tank would have made more sense than what you did and that added time to the development of 3 secs.
Hi Peter, thanks for the info. Never had a problem with using the small jug, I do not make a messy this way 😀
Did you say the JCH brand film was underexposed because you don't use the the F100 as much as the M6? That was, and let me put this bluntly, the stupidest thing I heard on the web this morning. And it's only 1AM here in La La Land!!! You gotta know what you are doing with a camera no matter the brand. They all do the same thing. Surely, you disagree.
Personally, I don't like the JCH film at all. One roll to test and I was done. It's ghastly! No, I would never put my name on a film like that. And yeah, I don't think it's any fault of yours or the lowly F100. It is by nature a horrible film that chokes up on shadows easily and make you look like a rookie. Like here, in this video!
Anyway, good video otherwise as I am thinking of giving this developer a shot. Not with that JCH film though, not especially with a F100 ;-)
Ghost Town Sentinel Thanks for your comment, I shoot different with my M6 TTL, because the light meter is not as good the Light meter on F100 and I would have to say the Leica lenses are more contrast then Nikon lenses. As for JCH, its not for everyone and I personally like it on a very bright sunny day. What’s your favourite B&W film?
@@DarrylCarey,, HP5+ is what I shoot with mostly, because of its ability to cope with contrasty lighting situations and the wide tonal range. Great film for post work.
@@ghosttownsentinel5288 HP5 is a really nice film, I shoot more Tri-X these days and must try a roll of HP5 soon.
Well I don’t think the mono bath is a good solution and here is why : when you push or pull your film you want to be able to control your solution mix . With mono bath you can’t . It’s a solution for people who want quick result but not for people that want to maintain control over development step.
DF96 is the worse of both worlds when it comes to BW chemicals... it doesn't give full speed, it's not fine grain, not compensating and also not archival.
Hi B, I feel DF96 is a good developer for people that want to try developing at home.
@@DarrylCarey Ofcourse, but I would say, take the extra time to get the most out of your negatives :), depends on how serious you are with them ofcourse. I own a lab and we sell DF96 all the time, good luck with the channel!
Leica as a piece of equipment is a very nice piece ... but the vallue is pure shit
How does the grain & sharpness compare to other developers? It might be better; it might be worse. There's no way to tell just by looking at small prints on youtube. Only side by side testing at large magnification will give useful information.