Great video! Yamaha really made this bike user friendly. On my KTM Duke 690 there is two filters, and two screeners. You also have to take off the exhaust to empty the oil. LOL.
@@torquemasters97 Yes, With the original "link pipe" the cat is wider than the engine and thus when emptying the oil it fills upp the whole cat then spills everywhere. I might have been lazy and done that once ;)
About to do my first change on the Tracer - fully synth Motul 7100. Just know something'll hold me up. Filter being stuck for instance. Thanks for the vid.
Good video, I start by taking the oil filler cap off and preparing the new filter. Filling up the new filter with oil is important, which is overlooked in some video tutorials. It will soak up a lot of oil 5 minutes, why not do it while draining the oil instead of slowing down proper lubrication.
@@Jethrot1982 Just fill the new filter with oil, let the oil soak in and repeat. If I recall correct it usually takes 3 or so fillings until it won't soak anymore oil.
Thank you for the video. May I ask where you got the yamaha oil filter from? Having trouble finding it and what washers(where did you get them from) did you use for the oil nut? Thank you!
I bought all the stuff in the official Yamaha store in Lissone. They provided me everything. This year, however, I got the pieces myself by buying a copper washer of the right diameter from the hardware store. I bought the oil filter on Amazon not original but probably better than the original. K&N Filtro Olio Powersports - Avvitabile 66x71mm compatibile con Kawasaki, Honda, Triumph, Yamaha (KN-204-1) amzn.eu/d/fQrnlgR
Nice video - great content! My only question concerns the new washer.. Can I accidentally flip it the wrong way? I've noticed that it's not symmetrical. Thanks again for the solid information 🙌
Really Dope Video man! Straight to the point! How come you use semi instead of full synthetic? What would you recommend if I ride often? I also have the same bike. I live in California and don’t ride to much during the winter season. But ride every other season. Especially summer time. Where I’ll most likely ride at 56 degree’s Celsius. Or maybe a higher. Does the outside temperature make a difference?
Thank you. Maybe you've already done everything since I answer two months later anyway I wouldn't have too many problems for an engine like the cp2. I simply advise you to stick to what is written on the use and maintenance book.
Heyman! Been watching a few of your videos, and they are really well done! Much appreciated tutorials for people like me who are brand new to bikes. I noticed you reply to most comments, and I know this is a dumb question, but I will go ahead anyways. So when people say you should change your filters on your bike every year, they are talking about the oil filter mainly right? Airfilters don't need to be changed that often from what I read in my user manual, but are there any other filters I'm missing?
Thanks a lot. For most motorcycles it is not necessary to change the air filter every year. In fact, it is sufficient to respect the time indicated in the use and maintenance book of the vehicle. The oil filter does not always have to be changed every year: for some motorcycles it is recommended to change it by skipping a year sometimes. Obviously if it is changed before nothing happens, simply you would not get detectable advantages. The fuel filter, on the other hand, should usually be changed after many years. For the mt07 I do not know there are other filters in general. Consider that there are many bikes with many more oil filters. Anyway, it's not a dumb question: consider that there are people who don't even ask themselfs those kind of questions ever in their life :)
Thanks for the video! I just did my first ever oil and filter change and did everything the same as in the video. The only problem is that I've put exactly 2.6L of oil and when I check the bike (leveled on the ground) the oil window is full. Any help with this? Should I drain some out ?
In your place I wouldn't worry too much. It's possible you didn't get the old oil out all the way. If you tilt the bike a few degrees more, do you see the air bubble or do you only see oil?
In this case i used the original filter of Yamaha. Now I use the K&N filter because I can get It on Amazon without going to official Yamaha store. Plus, the K&N filter is better in my opinion :)
@@arrrrr9831 Nope, you can't do that because of the gasket. Once mounted, the gasket welds and melts at high temperatures. Since you cannot replace the gasket because it's welded to the filter, you must avoid dismantling the filter. If you dismantle the filter, both the gasket and the filter will be thrown away.. Honestly, it's not worth dismantling the filter just to let the oil inside it come out. The residues would still remain inside the filter. Even if you had to do it then you would have to replace the gasket and clean the contact points very well. So in your place I would leave the filter alone and change it the next time together with the gasket.
There is a specific reason although I'm not entirely sure: when you start the engine after installation, and every time you use the vehicle, with the high temperatures the gasket will adhere strongly to the contact point. A very strong seal will form which will require much more torque when removing the filter.
Vibration does not tighten screws, but the opposite. Yamaha states in the manual the oil filter torque to be 17 Nm. But you need a huge socket specific for filters. Also the drain bolt torque is 43 Nm.
@@impact0r I'm sorry. I was wrong. I'm sorry I answered arrogantly. The only thing is, I don't think it's a big mistake. The oil drained completely, just slower than opening the filler cap. However, it is more correct to open it as you say to speed up the procedure :)
All information is reported in the use and maintenance book. If you go on the internet everyone will give you their personal opinion which often coincides with the oil change after the appropriate period. I personally change it every year at the beginning of the season.
@@torquemasters97 i heard a lot of people prefer to Change it at the end of the season. Its because the particles/dirt in the old oil may damage so parts during the time standing still. Everyone to their own, but for me that makes sence. Stay safe and pardon my englisch ;)
@@Keldor_AT No problem, thanks for commenting. The point is that if the bike is stationary (often in winter) the residues cannot give problems. Otherwise, as far as I'm concerned, the humidity infiltrations (if the motorbike stays in the cold for a long time) remain. This is why I change the oil at the beginning and not at the end of the season. Bear in mind that my bike remains stationary for many months. Having said that, the things we are discussing are irrelevant details if the oil change is performed within the times established by the manufacturer. The latter is really what matters and really makes the difference in the end. If the times of the manufacturer are respected, everything else (such as changing it at the beginning or at the end of the season) goes a lot in the background. Have a nice day! :)
@@knaps7790 Ah yes, ideally. In practice it's impossible to remove all the old oil that remains adhered to the walls and other engine components. Furthermore, first proceed to add a little oil, and only after, once the level has been checked, you add more oil if necessary. You can always add a little oil each time checking the level. If too much oil is added immediately, it becomes a problem to remove the excess.
Came to learn how to change oil, ended up raving to the music instead. 10/10 would change my oil again.
LOL
Nice to see it literally done by the book, not just a bunch of "this is how 'I' do it!" videos👍
Yeah! THANKS
Great video! Yamaha really made this bike user friendly. On my KTM Duke 690 there is two filters, and two screeners. You also have to take off the exhaust to empty the oil. LOL.
OMG rly? hahah
I also have a 690 SMC R and partially I can understand.. ;)
Thank You!
@@torquemasters97 Yes, With the original "link pipe" the cat is wider than the engine and thus when emptying the oil it fills upp the whole cat then spills everywhere. I might have been lazy and done that once ;)
THANK YOU!! I just bought a used MT-07.
You're welcome, congrats!
Thanks for makinf this! Once I get the break in service done by the dealer I plan on doing all my own fluids, and this is a huge help.
You're welcome
About to do my first change on the Tracer - fully synth Motul 7100. Just know something'll hold me up. Filter being stuck for instance. Thanks for the vid.
Just had same problem lol.. filter stuck as fck.. unscrewed it with a tool that i just bought 😂
@@Imaxiboy Mine was ok. Sprayed it with WD then just unscrewed it by hand.
Good video, I start by taking the oil filler cap off and preparing the new filter.
Filling up the new filter with oil is important, which is overlooked in some video tutorials. It will soak up a lot of oil 5 minutes, why not do it while draining the oil instead of slowing down proper lubrication.
Thanks Bro, you are 100% right
Awesome user name BTW!
@@GretaTurdeau Thanks again Sir ✌🏻
I'm a bit dim. Can you explain what you mean in a bit more detail for me please? thanks.
@@Jethrot1982 Just fill the new filter with oil, let the oil soak in and repeat. If I recall correct it usually takes 3 or so fillings until it won't soak anymore oil.
lmfao, that third arm coming in out of nowhere at the end
Thanks for this 💯🤙🏼
Thanks for this!
No problem, I knew it might be useful to some! :)
Thank you for the video. May I ask where you got the yamaha oil filter from? Having trouble finding it and what washers(where did you get them from) did you use for the oil nut? Thank you!
I bought all the stuff in the official Yamaha store in Lissone. They provided me everything. This year, however, I got the pieces myself by buying a copper washer of the right diameter from the hardware store. I bought the oil filter on Amazon not original but probably better than the original.
K&N Filtro Olio Powersports - Avvitabile 66x71mm compatibile con Kawasaki, Honda, Triumph, Yamaha (KN-204-1)
amzn.eu/d/fQrnlgR
Nice video - great content! My only question concerns the new washer.. Can I accidentally flip it the wrong way? I've noticed that it's not symmetrical. Thanks again for the solid information 🙌
The original one I think is not symmetrical, anyway It doesn't make any difference so you can't put It in the wrong way :)
Great vid thank you
Really Dope Video man! Straight to the point!
How come you use semi instead of full synthetic? What would you recommend if I ride often? I also have the same bike.
I live in California and don’t ride to much during the winter season. But ride every other season. Especially summer time. Where I’ll most likely ride at 56 degree’s Celsius. Or maybe a higher. Does the outside temperature make a difference?
Thank you. Maybe you've already done everything since I answer two months later anyway I wouldn't have too many problems for an engine like the cp2. I simply advise you to stick to what is written on the use and maintenance book.
Heyman! Been watching a few of your videos, and they are really well done! Much appreciated tutorials for people like me who are brand new to bikes. I noticed you reply to most comments, and I know this is a dumb question, but I will go ahead anyways. So when people say you should change your filters on your bike every year, they are talking about the oil filter mainly right? Airfilters don't need to be changed that often from what I read in my user manual, but are there any other filters I'm missing?
Thanks a lot. For most motorcycles it is not necessary to change the air filter every year. In fact, it is sufficient to respect the time indicated in the use and maintenance book of the vehicle. The oil filter does not always have to be changed every year: for some motorcycles it is recommended to change it by skipping a year sometimes. Obviously if it is changed before nothing happens, simply you would not get detectable advantages. The fuel filter, on the other hand, should usually be changed after many years. For the mt07 I do not know there are other filters in general. Consider that there are many bikes with many more oil filters.
Anyway, it's not a dumb question: consider that there are people who don't even ask themselfs those kind of questions ever in their life :)
Thanks for the video! I just did my first ever oil and filter change and did everything the same as in the video. The only problem is that I've put exactly 2.6L of oil and when I check the bike (leveled on the ground) the oil window is full. Any help with this? Should I drain some out ?
In your place I wouldn't worry too much. It's possible you didn't get the old oil out all the way. If you tilt the bike a few degrees more, do you see the air bubble or do you only see oil?
@@torquemasters97 yeah if i tilt the bike just a bit to the right, i can see the oil level in the window
@@PIZZAenjoyer8767 Everything should be ok so. It's the same in my case :)
What filter did you use for the change?, i have an MT-07 2018 plate.
In this case i used the original filter of Yamaha. Now I use the K&N filter because I can get It on Amazon without going to official Yamaha store. Plus, the K&N filter is better in my opinion :)
Which crush washer do you use?
I bought it from Yamaha, if the previous one has no signs of wear you could avoid replacing it.
Why did you use semi synthetic over full Synthetic?
It's the one recommended by the manufacturer
Do you need to swap out the oil filter everytime?
Yamaha says you may skip a filter change once when you change the oil. I change it every year anyway :)
@@torquemasters97 cheers. Would you still remove it to drain the rest of the oil, or just leave it in to prevent deformation?
@@arrrrr9831 Nope, you can't do that because of the gasket. Once mounted, the gasket welds and melts at high temperatures. Since you cannot replace the gasket because it's welded to the filter, you must avoid dismantling the filter. If you dismantle the filter, both the gasket and the filter will be thrown away.. Honestly, it's not worth dismantling the filter just to let the oil inside it come out. The residues would still remain inside the filter. Even if you had to do it then you would have to replace the gasket and clean the contact points very well. So in your place I would leave the filter alone and change it the next time together with the gasket.
The oil filter is never tightened more than "hand tight"? Then why did you need a tool to get the old one off?
There is a specific reason although I'm not entirely sure: when you start the engine after installation, and every time you use the vehicle, with the high temperatures the gasket will adhere strongly to the contact point. A very strong seal will form which will require much more torque when removing the filter.
the vibrations tightens it
Vibration does not tighten screws, but the opposite. Yamaha states in the manual the oil filter torque to be 17 Nm. But you need a huge socket specific for filters. Also the drain bolt torque is 43 Nm.
Thankyou sir
You are welcome
Thx
You are welcome Man!
The FIRST thing you do is unscrew the top oil cap!
@@impact0r I'm sorry. I was wrong. I'm sorry I answered arrogantly. The only thing is, I don't think it's a big mistake. The oil drained completely, just slower than opening the filler cap. However, it is more correct to open it as you say to speed up the procedure :)
@@torquemasters97 I agree it is not a big mistake. I will remove the that word from my original post.
What's the reason for letting the bike warm up first?
The oil heating becomes less viscous, this causes it to come out more easily and faster and also carry the metal residues :)
2.6 Lt
How do you know when you need a oil change?
All information is reported in the use and maintenance book. If you go on the internet everyone will give you their personal opinion which often coincides with the oil change after the appropriate period. I personally change it every year at the beginning of the season.
@@torquemasters97 i heard a lot of people prefer to Change it at the end of the season. Its because the particles/dirt in the old oil may damage so parts during the time standing still. Everyone to their own, but for me that makes sence. Stay safe and pardon my englisch ;)
@@Keldor_AT No problem, thanks for commenting. The point is that if the bike is stationary (often in winter) the residues cannot give problems. Otherwise, as far as I'm concerned, the humidity infiltrations (if the motorbike stays in the cold for a long time) remain. This is why I change the oil at the beginning and not at the end of the season. Bear in mind that my bike remains stationary for many months. Having said that, the things we are discussing are irrelevant details if the oil change is performed within the times established by the manufacturer. The latter is really what matters and really makes the difference in the end. If the times of the manufacturer are respected, everything else (such as changing it at the beginning or at the end of the season) goes a lot in the background.
Have a nice day! :)
2.6L or 2.3L ?
2.6l, but always check the oil level!
Love oil filter special service tool #69
Only 2.5 Liters of oil ??
I don't know, did you read correctly?
@@torquemasters97I called a yamaha service they said 2.6L without changing the oil filter and 2.8L if you're changing the oil filter
@@knaps7790
Ah yes, ideally. In practice it's impossible to remove all the old oil that remains adhered to the walls and other engine components. Furthermore, first proceed to add a little oil, and only after, once the level has been checked, you add more oil if necessary. You can always add a little oil each time checking the level. If too much oil is added immediately, it becomes a problem to remove the excess.
Manual states 2.3 without changing the filter, 2.6 with the filter. Its easy to sump some oil with a syringe thru the filling cap.
Mute✅️
Hahahah
great i just need this....THANKS