Easy way to fix all your water problems,,,, USE RUBBER ROOFING UNDER THE DECK BOARDS!! I do it all the time, every screw you put in it seals it up. Run the rubber also up under the siding of the house, you will never have a leak. You dont halft to tape the wood either.
Are they 36 volt hikoki impact drivers? What are they like? I notice you have the makita worm drive circular saw? Or is it another type? Interesting if you review the deck in a few years time to see how the weather effects. Certainly technology in tools not only produces quality work, it also is therapy and enjoyable to work with. Also less fatigue.
Great job as always. Question: How do you ensure you don't cut through your g-tape or into the joists when trimming the ends of the boards once laid using a track saw?
Use Runber rooging on top of your deck and run it under the sidding of the house and you will never have a leak. Every screw you put in seals up. Its like a runber gasket. I do this all the time.
It would have been cool to see your process for leveling the joists. Like, which one becomes the starting point for the other joists to be shaved or shimmed to match.
For Azek decks, I came up with a great idea, since the boards come with un square end, when I square the ends, I try to shave as little as possible, but enough that there's a really thin sliver (which will be tapered since one side is crooked), then as I continue I make an assortment of different thickness slivers, so they become shims. since its best to have a shim an identical material to what you are shimming, it will follow the expansion/contraction closer, plus since its pvc its invincible to decay. 👌
@@RedDeckRedemption That's a great idea. Thanks for the tip! But, since they are so thin do they split when you run a screw through them or do you drill a hole in them first?
@@btreese7 I'm not sure how the super thin ones handle the screws, it probably tears it a little around the screw. Only recently came up with it. (They hidden underneath the board so I couldn't see lol) but it worked so far. Bonus free tip: if you need gap spacers, cut some short left over pieces into 1"-1.5" wide strips, and staple tile spacers on the narrow ends, worked surprisingly well, a bag of the spacers was only 5 bucks
Definitely my new favorite decking channel, needs more subscribers, these chaps are on it!
Easy way to fix all your water problems,,,, USE RUBBER ROOFING UNDER THE DECK BOARDS!! I do it all the time, every screw you put in it seals it up. Run the rubber also up under the siding of the house, you will never have a leak. You dont halft to tape the wood either.
It’s good that you cover the leveling aspect of the joists.
What foil tape did you use? I'm using joist tape for padding but it's just too thin
Beautiful work. Quick question for you. Do you prefer the hidden fasteners or screw in the top boards?
Are they 36 volt hikoki impact drivers? What are they like?
I notice you have the makita worm drive circular saw? Or is it another type?
Interesting if you review the deck in a few years time to see how the weather effects.
Certainly technology in tools not only produces quality work, it also is therapy and enjoyable to work with. Also less fatigue.
What is the foil tape you use for lower joists? Thanks
What foil tape do you use to build up the low joists? Are there any other tips you have to do the same?
Great job as always. Question: How do you ensure you don't cut through your g-tape or into the joists when trimming the ends of the boards once laid using a track saw?
Use Runber rooging on top of your deck and run it under the sidding of the house and you will never have a leak. Every screw you put in seals up. Its like a runber gasket. I do this all the time.
Do those boards have a flange or something on the edge??
Why not use engineered joist?
I like this deck.
Anthony DaGuanno waiting for testing and install guide for PT LVL’s
It would have been cool to see your process for leveling the joists. Like, which one becomes the starting point for the other joists to be shaved or shimmed to match.
For Azek decks, I came up with a great idea, since the boards come with un square end, when I square the ends, I try to shave as little as possible, but enough that there's a really thin sliver (which will be tapered since one side is crooked), then as I continue I make an assortment of different thickness slivers, so they become shims. since its best to have a shim an identical material to what you are shimming, it will follow the expansion/contraction closer, plus since its pvc its invincible to decay. 👌
@@RedDeckRedemption That's a great idea. Thanks for the tip! But, since they are so thin do they split when you run a screw through them or do you drill a hole in them first?
@@btreese7 I'm not sure how the super thin ones handle the screws, it probably tears it a little around the screw. Only recently came up with it. (They hidden underneath the board so I couldn't see lol) but it worked so far.
Bonus free tip: if you need gap spacers, cut some short left over pieces into 1"-1.5" wide strips, and staple tile spacers on the narrow ends, worked surprisingly well, a bag of the spacers was only 5 bucks
What kinda lumber is that? We dont have it round my.way
Pressure treated hemlock fir
PT is such a pain dealing with all that movement.
To long on the sun loungers 😂