This changed the way I will make knives for good
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- Thanks for checking out my latest video. I ventured into unknown territory with this blade and I was surprised by the result.
This knife is available for purchase, here: www.watersforg...
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"that red thing behind me.. it holds stuff" 😂 perfect explanation
lol
Yep. I put groves in all my blades. Lightens them, helps to release material it is cutting through and looks great.
🙌💯
That's a beautiful knife, and I needed that informative video.
Thank you! I'm glad you liked it 🙌
love these full length in depth videos! that knife turned out beautifully
Thank you!
SWEET, thank you for the effort to share your craft.
Thank you!
I’m amazed at just how well your new blade releases the potato. I’m going to try to make one myself. Thank you.
I was pretty impressed by how well it worked. Definitely give it a shot!
Great looking knife! As a 40 yrs+ knifemaker I learned a long time ago I could take a blade out of the tempering furnace at some point near the end of the cycle and while still hot and not letting it cool too much do all the straightening that needs to be done, then put the blade back in to finish the cycle.
Thank you! 40 years is long time, that’s awesome! Yeah I’ve seen that technique! I currently temper in a kitchen oven (super accurate haha) so the blue back method is my go to. I also try to get it straight in that window right after quench.
@@mattwatersbladesmith Yours is a good method though especially if you are wanting a tough knife, soft back- hard edge!
I enjoyed watching this. I liked the way you chatted about each thing you were doing or using, it really helps to understand and made it easy and interesting to follow . thanks
Thank you so much for the comment! It’s so helpful hearing what was, well, helpful.
Gives good direction on how to make good videos for you and everyone else who wants to watch me make stuff!
If you polish the faces of your hammers and anvil you can forge more and grind less. Planishing out the blade means less scale to grind off and reduces stresses in the metal that cause warping in the hardening/tempering phase.
Planishing is an excellent skill to have, but the real time saver is in the finish forging. It's always faster to forge thin than it is to grind heavy.
I've been forging knives for over 10 years now. I've been through a lot of phases of hammer and tool types and maintenance levels and during all of the different experiments I've done planishing with everything from a custom blacksmith hammer with a mirror polish on a perfectly milled flat anvil, to a 100 year old rusty 4 pound sledge that was used for concrete stakes for 20 years on a piece of unfinished railroad track with all it's scars and pits. It honestly makes very little difference as long as it's not too rough. Obviously if it's smooth it will be better than if it's chipped and pitted, but there is no reason to polish the tool faces or to make them anywhere near perfect. You just need to hit it with a belt sander somewhere around 150-250 grit till it's not mangled and ugly anymore, and then get to work.
Honestly, having a good handle on time and temperature, and preventing scale from building up is far more important. Surface scaring from forge scale will happen no matter how polished your hammer is and it's generally worse than any irregularities that you're creating with your hammer (assuming you have good control and technique).
@douglasyoung927 on handles the old timers had it right with octagonal handles.
@@douglasyoung927hello sir, I enjoyed reading your comment. What is planishing ? In layman’s terms ? I’m a newish knife maker
@@GerstBladeworks nearing the end of the forging, you can allow the steel to cool somewhat. Depending on the steel your using that may mean quite hot still, or a medium to dull red, or sometimes all the way down to just above room temp (generally we would never strike steel at a black heat). This allows you to hammer out all of the hammer marks, fine tune the bevels, center the edge, and straighten the spine without moving or warping steel. It makes everything more forgiving under the hammer for the very fine work. Depending on the temperature it can even knock off most of the scale for you.
It's important to not confuse planishing for 'edge packing' which is a misnomer term that people often use to describe work hardening cold steel.
Planishing is a term from old world manufacturing processes where the finished product was polished under a hammer at a blue heat (like when blueing the barrel of a firearm) to save on time and labor while still producing a beautiful and intentional finished pastina. Generally this would be done with basic carbon steels and agricultural steels at medium hardness levels. Things like plough and tiller blades, gate hinges, wagon hardware, and leaf springs. It was also used to stretch and polish non ferrous metals like brass and silver.
The Mallee wood is the root of the eucalyptus mallee tree. Most Mallee varieties have the same characteristic root formations which make fantastic wooden bowls and are well sort after for their hardness and colours.
Im a chef/knife maker hobby I only have 2 things to say about the design of this knife.
1. How is the straightness of the cut? If the wonkiness of the knife interferes with the cuts in anyway. The best way to find out about this is cutting a big carrot/sweet potato, or squash/pumpkin. These are all hard vegetables and they can communicate to you about the knife's performance. And in fine dining, or at least where i work, there is a very big emphasis on consistency on prep.
2. Im sure you can get away with a shallower hollow and a thinner blade with a convex grind. A thick blade isnt a bad thing but because this knife is meant to cut vegetables and not stick, it should follow a design thats relatively thin to help the knife not get wedged into vegetables such as any hard vegs but also bell peppers can also get split with a thick knife. You should increase the height of the knife in my opinion, giving it more space for a convex grind, or a hollow grind.
Anyways, awesome work. Love watching your content. You gained another sub!
Thank you very much for the comment and questions!! This is a style I am VERY new to creating.
I’ll try to answer your questions.
1. The cut was good, but the blade was a bit thick for my taste. The edge was still very thin, and crazy sharp, but I think instead of convexing the flat side next time I’ll do a very shallow hollow. I really liked the asymmetric grind.
2. I think I’ll experiment with a taller heel in the next few versions of this knife for sure. And probably with both symmetrical and asymmetrical blades haha. So keep an eye out!
Again, thanks for the comment :)
Thanks for your time.great knife
Thank you 🙏
Brilliant and beautiful… and now I want to make one…. Maybe one day (hopefully soon)
Thank you very much 🙏 I hope you do!!
Thanks for the video, functional and beautiful.
Thank you!
Sweet knife mate.... I actually live in mallee stump territory and love the this beautiful wood, but, as you found it's amazingly tough to work with.... love the idea, style and look of this knife. Well done m8..
That’s legit!! It is really amazing wood. I was stoked to come across it.
Glad you liked the knife!! Thanks for the comment 🙏
Well done Matt. Nice job. Cheers J
Thank you Josh!!
That is a very interesting concept and design right there. Certainly not your conventional pattern of blade for sure. But damn it works well. Well done on that. Very well done.
Yeah it’s definitely a bit out there compared to a standard chef! But man it cuts so freaking easy, and the food release is just 🤌🏻
Asymmetrical blade shapes are so cool! should totally look into Yakut style knives
Thank you! I agree, they’re legit.
Yeah I love Yakut knives!
Very nice!
Why thank you!
Great video. You should look into getting some poundo board from the craft store. It has pretty good grip for keeping the sandpaper in place so you don't have to hold onto it as aggressively. It has just a little bit of give without losing any support, it comes in all kinds of weights and thicknesses and densities, and it seems to last forever. I think I first heard it from a Walter Sorels video and I've been using it every since. I like to make little wood pieces that match all the knife shapes and make sure they have a good handle on them and then I just gorilla glue some poundo board to the contact face. Really saves your fingers and allows for accurate, safe and secure sanding.
Dude, Thank you for the advice!! That’s legit, I’m gonna definitely use that on the next one 🙏👍🏻
Very nice blades Brother
@@scottyelder8351 thank you!
Very well done, especially as a proof of concept. I didn't personally need the descriptions of what each step was, but I still find it nice, especially to introduce to others--such as my kids--who aren't [as] knowledgeable on these things.
A tip for hand sanding hollows/fullers: If you take a piece of wood (for example, or really any substrate that is stiff enough for a backing material) and make it into an oval cross-section, you'll find it can work out for a number of different fuller widths or hollow radii. An old piece of oval-shaped axe handle, made from hickory or even fiberglass, might be an excellent candidate for such a task.
I learned this when I was hand sanding auto body parts after spray priming, though in my particular case I was using a foam-backed sanding block instead. This way I didn't need to keep finding different sizes of PVC pipe, etc. to use as the complex curves of a door panel or fender changed.
Thanks for the fuller sanding tip! I'll keep that in mind on the next one. Glad you enjoyed the video!! - Matt
@@0num4
Thanks for the tip Matt..will also certainly bear that in mind..❗🤔🙇♂️
I find most of you Bladesmiths in USA very sharing with info as opposed to here in Africa..⁉️🤔🙇♂️🇿🇦
What I have found also works really well is a piece of hard foam rubber. Something like a nerf dart but with much more denser consistency To it. Follows most or any hollow groove easily. Without you having to clamp down on it to hold it. Less stressful on the fingers in the long run.
@@bernardhill1622bud. I’m also in SA which smiths have you tried reaching out to for advice or info. Most of the guys I’ve come across are very forthcoming with info to beginners.
@@delmaneboshoff5610 thanks for the tip!
You did an amzing work.
Thank you!
the reason is the fullers reduce the surface area of the knife that is exposed to the potato
therefore breaking surface tension and so the material doesn't stick
I would like to introduce this knife to those who cannot make it. It is a Japanese "guresuten".
Excellent work...beautiful!
@@Throwsessive thank you!
@@mattwatersbladesmith you are welcome. I have been making knives,mostly throwing knives,,for a couple of years. A lot of stock removal. Leaf springs have been kind to me. I am gradually getting into the forging part. Thanks for your videos,they are quite helpful
Called, fire welding here
Definitely gonna have to try that out. That's badass...
Yeah you should!
well done mate. Shes a beauty and well executed!
Thank you!
You just made my dream chef knife. Cheers 🍻🔪
Thank you! It's available www.watersforgellc.com/product-page/fullered-chef-knife
Nice RUclips channel and sick project! I’m definitely going to have to try something like that out
Thanks Devin!
Love to see the mallee root wood it's some tough wood. One of the local woods I use
It’s beautiful stuff! I was amazed at how tough it is
Currently making a mallee root table with a glass top. Keep up the good work.
Very nice
Thanks!
awesome video just subbed looking forward to more content Mark
@@Anderson-HandForged thank you so much! Working on another video currently, should be out soon!
You might want to heat treat and temper after you grind the final grooves of the shape. Also, I like the scallops that are perpendicular to the long groove you used, called a Granton edge sometimes, that is also a food release. My favorite is a Japanese knife with a hammered finish, and if the hammer dents are deep enough, you still get the food release effect, and a cool finish. This is all extra credit stuff anyway, and you made a damn fine knife in this video
Burl is typically part of the root system
Nice
Thanks!
8:00
Wine corks work perfect
Shape them to your needed shape
That is something I'll definitely try! Thanks!
@@mattwatersbladesmith don't forget to try champagne corks aswell
Idea fantastica!greetings from italy🙏
Thank you so much!
You basically made a yakut chef knife lol and id love to have one
Haha yes, it basically is! It’s available:) www.watersforgellc.com/shop
Nice work man and greetings from germany.
How thick is the spine compared to the classic flatgrind chefsknife.
Dont u loose slicyness due to the thicker blade?
Hello from Colorado!
Yeah it’s a bit thicker, not sure exactly how much. And it lost just a little bit of slicyness, but still cut pretty well.
thx for the Feedback
@@patkal3987 💯👍🏻👍🏻
most expensive kind of japanese knives use double convex shapes and convex in the edge as well
I'm gonna have to make one like that too!
@@mattwatersbladesmith is a challenge for sure a friend of mine makes them in a previous mold and we hydraulic press it to have a general shape more closed to the desire one
nice one!"!
Thanks!
Beautiful knife and craftsmanship.Anyways ,there is a much easier way to make a food release knife that would look great as well.😊
Thank you!
Брово мастер 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you!
I wonder how much the upper fuller is contributing to the release aspect. It looks like the combination of the hallow grind on one side, with the convex grind on the other, is what is mainly responsible. It would be really interesting to experiment with that. Of course, the fuller helps with weight, which is always a good thing. Nice work!
Upper fuller, probably not contributing much. I mostly just really wanted to grind a narrow fuller 😂
I think you're spot on, the convex matched by a fuller on the other side is what gives it the release.
Thanks for the comment!
Interesting. I wonder if the food would release just as well with only the lower 2/3 of right hand side of the blade hollow ground, but the rest of the knife flat ground.
I considered that. I would have needed to use a shallower radius to grind the hollow, one of the reasons I went with the convex
I love your voice!
Thanks!
I personally enjoy the single-bevel knife for cooking, but I've never use a concave-ground kitchen knife, so maybe I should
It is legit, you should!
So kinda like scallops but lateral vs longitudinal
Yeah similar !
Wow! Would you be willing to make a full kitchen set?
I do custom knife drops as often as I can instead of custom orders. If you’re interested in snagging one, sign up for my newsletter!
Thank you btw!! 🙏
Really cool
Thank you!
Really interesting idea for kitchen knives. but if you change the bolster to a lighter one, won’t it become more convenient to work with such a knife? ))
Change it in what way? I personally like the integral bolster, but I'm sure it's not for everyone!
Great concept! + no powerhammer + quench at around good temperature + freehand gerinding + no stick cutting. Congrats! Greetings from Hungary, Budapest. What steel did you use?
@@csabavarady4711 thank you!! Appreciate all that :)
I used 1084 steel!
@@mattwatersbladesmith How does the 1084 compare to the 1083 Shovel Spring Steel i used to supply to the Lawnblade manufacturers in 1976 which was a replacement for EN42F..⁉️🤔
What i do know is if your hardening & tempering is not done correctly you've got a potential foot amputating blade on hand..lots of shrapnel etc.❗🙄🇿🇦🏴
beautiful result! the handle looks amazing, what wood is that?
Thank you! It’s Australian Mallee Burl
if someone was left handed would the reliefs need to be on the other side of the blade?
Yeah, for this style. There is also a style called an "S" grind that is ambidextrous
Can you make one for Me ?. Beautiful knife
The knife from the video is available! www.watersforgellc.com/shop
You need to clean that knife off. Reoil with something food safe and put it in your kitchen. Looks like a perfect kitchen knife to me.
Thanks! I did clean it before it shipped out :)
@@mattwatersbladesmith I didn’t realize you planned to sell it. I’m glad you did. I’ve got a feeling you have enough knives 😂😂. Good knives should be used and that one looks like an excellent prep knife.
@@sambaggins2798 Thank you!
What kind of power hammer is that in the background?
Anyang
Awesome video! Where did you get that file guide from?
Thank you! Bill Benke tools, www.billbehnkeknives.com/store
Love it..❗👍🏻👌🏻
Thanks for sharing..❗
Greetings from "Out of Africa"..❗🙇♂️🏴🇿🇦
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it 🙏 Greetings from Colorado 👋
$1,000 knife😮
💯🙌
do you have to forge the knife a little thicker to account for the hollows? I like to forge as close to final shape as possible, but I may have to give this a try some time!
I did forge a bit thicker on this one yes! But I think with the 36” radius platen (ameribrade sells one I bought) you can forge pretty thin still
Thanks!
A knife wth a Yari Kanna blade...the circle is closed.
Look, less than 8” is hardly something to worry about.
That turned out incredible! Great video, I recently got that grinder but definitely need to get used to operating it. It’s impressive how crisp those grinds turned out. What light are you using on the grinder if you don’t mind me asking?
Thank you!! 🙏 I switch to new belts so fast haha, it helps with getting crispy grinds.
And I think it’s a sewing light off of Amazon? I don’t remember exactly, but it was like 12 bucks!
Can I ask ... When you put borax on your billet, why do you not put it on over the bowl so the bits that miss go back in the bowl and not on the floor? Seems like a waste
That could be a good idea haha.
solid vid bro. try a 36 (or 24) grit for your 2x72 when you have to hog down the hardwoods, soooo much better than 60grit. watch yer fingers tho 😂
For sure, those grits work way better for removing a lot of material quickly. I just had run out of them 😅
👍👍
Thanks!
Why don't you use the damn powerhammer?
It’s not mine unfortunately. If it was I would be all about the power hammer 😅
Do you sell these
Sure do!
www.watersforgellc.com/
What hp is your grinder?
1hp. Which sounds pathetic, but for a 2x48 it’s surprisingly powerful
Is this a rent a shop area or your own shop? It seems set up like a school or maker space.
It's a maker space! There is public hours, and then membership that gives more access.
That's awesome. I wish the town I lived in was a little bit bigger so that it could support something along these lines. Great job on the knife and thanks for sharing.
Hey Matt, what grinder is that ?
lol never mind as soon as I was asking this, it came across on the video
Haha glad you found it!
@@mattwatersbladesmith hey btw, what kind of powder were you using for the flux?
@@GerstBladeworks borax!
I thought you did a very good job I like how the taders didn't stick!!!
Not today taders!!
And thank you 🙏
So many folks forget to mention how important normalizing is!
Kudos.
Thank you! Yeah it really is one of the most important steps. I was taught how to normalize in the forge by Master Smith J.W. Randall and Kevin Cashen. Invaluable in my smithing career
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👌👍🗡💯
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making a kitchen knife witch so much chimic products is getting me out of my shoes. All the vegetables hurting this blade will remember of the chemical particles used during realisation... Have you ever thought to use more natural products ?