Hi Tom, I always press like on those channels who produce great content, and, rest assured, every single video of yours has my "like". Shame on those people who can't move a mouse a few inches to say thanks to people who make and share wonderful content. I am in the process of building my first wooden model, largely inspired by you. Your earlier video on scale and and compelling impression had a HUGE impact on me. You have the best modelling channel on RUclips imho.
Tom, holly can be a dream or a nightmare. The quality of the stuff presently available varies all over the place, and at close to $35/board foot you can't buy excess to cull out suitable stock. I have a small amount I have had for years and use it to cut stock for frames, etc., but I bet I lose half of the frames because of contrary grain. I particularly like it because of the close grain and it does not fuzz like a soft wood. I have also uses Swiss pear for the same purpose. Keep them coming my friend. I will have a few pictures for you in a few days.
I agree. I've really come to like using holly when you need to reproduce oak at scales like 1:48 and 1:24. The look is unbeatable. I'll keep an eye out for photos. T
Hi Tom, I've found that be putting a thin scrap piece in the end slots before chiseling the taper this will keep the slot from collapsing under the weight of the chisel.
Hi Tom, You mentioned using ammonia to soak the stem and stern pieces to make them pliable. Is that a practice that you like or is it superior to using hot water? Great series . Thanks Bill G Linwood, Kansas
A long time ago I read an article about using ammonia for this and it seemed so much easier than sticking the wood down the spout of a tea kettle, or building a mini steam box, so I've used it ever since. For me it's more consistent than steam or even just water soaking (5 or 10 minutes and you're ready to go). It may also be faster, although I've never done a direct comparison. Also, when using the ammonia to bend white holly, it really does not seem to raise the grain, a problem I've run into with basswood. Perhaps the holly being so much denser is the key, there. Just be aware that you MUST use the stuff in a very WELL VENTILATED AREA. It will fry your sinuses and brain cells in minutes.
Matthijs, your microwave is a great steam box. Wrap the stock in a damp paper towel and run the oven on reduced power to heat it. The problem is you need to work quickly because the parts are so small they cool quickly. The ammonia gives a longer working time.
Hi Matthijs, Everything Bob said is correct. The only drawback to the ammonia is the need to be in a well ventilated space to use it. In the upcoming episode on framing, you'll see me soaking and bending the frames for the whaleboat. I think I'm bending about 20 or so frames at once. When I took them out of the bending trap, not one was snapped or broken. It just seems to do a more consistent job of making the wood pliable. As a result, you wind up with fewer split pieces and more usable ones.
I use a bunch of different glues. Mostly, I use a CA glue for general building. I use Titebound for larger glue-ups, or where open time is important. Elmer's Glue for gluing silkspan and some rigging applications. And Epoxy in certain circumstances. Glad you're enjoying the videos and thanks for the props on scale. I do believe that without scale, you don't have a model. You have a toy.
It was tough to take, but I got through it. I believe I came out on the other side a better builder because it forced me to slow down and re-evaluate what and how I do things. A little self evaluation and introspection can go a long way. My only regret is that I find it next to impossible to hand-write anything.
another favorite channel has a good explanation as to why (5:40 into the video if you are in a rush), although the solution taken to the extreme, check out applied science " Extreme wood bending with ammonia" ruclips.net/video/9Z0SsAyHKzc/видео.html
Man oh man those clamps are the best looking clamps I've ever seen. Are they home made or did you buy them from somewhere? Very informative video Thanks for taking the time to make them.
Sadly, I cannot find those clamps, today. And sadder yet, I can't remember where I bought them. It was a bout thirty years ago. I've looked online and not found anything even close. If anyone out there knows where to get them, don't be shy!
Master....it'z very beutiful look your work....🇮🇹
mille grazie
Brilliant you cranky old bastard !
Eagerly awaiting more !
Thanks, Ray.
Hi Tom, I always press like on those channels who produce great content, and, rest assured, every single video of yours has my "like". Shame on those people who can't move a mouse a few inches to say thanks to people who make and share wonderful content.
I am in the process of building my first wooden model, largely inspired by you. Your earlier video on scale and and compelling impression had a HUGE impact on me. You have the best modelling channel on RUclips imho.
Thanks for your support. Your words mean more than you probably suspect.
Tom, holly can be a dream or a nightmare. The quality of the stuff presently available varies all over the place, and at close to $35/board foot you can't buy excess to cull out suitable stock. I have a small amount I have had for years and use it to cut stock for frames, etc., but I bet I lose half of the frames because of contrary grain. I particularly like it because of the close grain and it does not fuzz like a soft wood. I have also uses Swiss pear for the same purpose. Keep them coming my friend. I will have a few pictures for you in a few days.
I agree. I've really come to like using holly when you need to reproduce oak at scales like 1:48 and 1:24. The look is unbeatable. I'll keep an eye out for photos. T
Hi Tom, I've found that be putting a thin scrap piece in the end slots before chiseling the taper this will keep the slot from collapsing under the weight of the chisel.
Hi Ariel,
I have done that, in the past and it does work well. I was just too lazy to find a piece to fit and luckily, I didn't break anything.
Hey Tom great video. You should try Bob Smith Industry c/a glue medium. It will not crystallize on the wood. Nice work.
I will check it out. Thanks James
Been waiting for this
Your wait is over
please tell me were you get those clamps Great work.
Hi Ken
See my response to 4englishlies, above.
Hi Tom, You mentioned using ammonia to soak the stem and stern pieces to make them pliable. Is that a practice that you like or is it superior to using hot water? Great series . Thanks Bill G Linwood, Kansas
A long time ago I read an article about using ammonia for this and it seemed so much easier than sticking the wood down the spout of a tea kettle, or building a mini steam box, so I've used it ever since. For me it's more consistent than steam or even just water soaking (5 or 10 minutes and you're ready to go). It may also be faster, although I've never done a direct comparison. Also, when using the ammonia to bend white holly, it really does not seem to raise the grain, a problem I've run into with basswood. Perhaps the holly being so much denser is the key, there. Just be aware that you MUST use the stuff in a very WELL VENTILATED AREA. It will fry your sinuses and brain cells in minutes.
From Ariel Abrahamson -- Great video -- super great series. By the way, the ads were very distracting -- good job getting then off.
Thanks, Ariel. I probably will resume the ads after the election in November.
Is it also possible to make a little steambox and steam the planks instead of using chemicals?
Matthijs, your microwave is a great steam box. Wrap the stock in a damp paper towel and run the oven on reduced power to heat it. The problem is you need to work quickly because the parts are so small they cool quickly. The ammonia gives a longer working time.
Hi Matthijs,
Everything Bob said is correct. The only drawback to the ammonia is the need to be in a well ventilated space to use it. In the upcoming episode on framing, you'll see me soaking and bending the frames for the whaleboat. I think I'm bending about 20 or so frames at once. When I took them out of the bending trap, not one was snapped or broken. It just seems to do a more consistent job of making the wood pliable. As a result, you wind up with fewer split pieces and more usable ones.
What glues/adhesives do you use? I thought I saw it in one of your videos, I’m not finding it... Love your teachings and attention to scale!
I use a bunch of different glues. Mostly, I use a CA glue for general building. I use Titebound for larger glue-ups, or where open time is important. Elmer's Glue for gluing silkspan and some rigging applications. And Epoxy in certain circumstances. Glad you're enjoying the videos and thanks for the props on scale. I do believe that without scale, you don't have a model. You have a toy.
@@shipmodelguy Thank you for the response! Much appreciated!
It must have been a real blow when you damaged your left hand Tom ?
It was tough to take, but I got through it. I believe I came out on the other side a better builder because it forced me to slow down and re-evaluate what and how I do things. A little self evaluation and introspection can go a long way.
My only regret is that I find it next to impossible to hand-write anything.
What benefits does soaking in ammonia have over water for bending stock ?
Hey Ray,
See the response to Bill Goodwin's question. I think it's down below.
another favorite channel has a good explanation as to why (5:40 into the video if you are in a rush), although the solution taken to the extreme, check out applied science " Extreme wood bending with ammonia" ruclips.net/video/9Z0SsAyHKzc/видео.html
Man oh man those clamps are the best looking clamps I've ever seen. Are they home made or did you buy them from somewhere? Very informative video Thanks for taking the time to make them.
Sadly, I cannot find those clamps, today. And sadder yet, I can't remember where I bought them. It was a bout thirty years ago. I've looked online and not found anything even close. If anyone out there knows where to get them, don't be shy!