Custom rear drive shaft is dope, Im surprised that MIP didn't take your idea and offer a version of their own? Im a fan of their parts hopefully the SSD Rear Drive Shaft that I have recently installed lasts. Cheers 👍👍
Well done though, still trying to figure out how to center the holes on the panels to fit the posts. On my second sheet of aluminum panel 😒 any suggestions?
I had the steering apart after about 10 minutes of driving it - the servo horn stripped. Since I didn't have a 23t servo horn, I dropped in a Futaba servo with a 25t horn. All was fixed, but the steering overall was weak
Has your factory steering arm that attaches the servo to the steering rack break yet? I ended up upgrading mine with revo rod ends and a basic shorty steering rod.
Thanks very much...You are a Movie Star, very professional Videos...New to RCing, you vids really helping me in my Rock Rey Build...Thanks keep them coming 5Stars :)
Did the SSD third member with the larger pinion *require* the custom driveshaft you put together? Or is there another option there perhaps less durable?
I just got a used losi baja rey 1/10 and I really like the wheels (tires and rims) that you put on this Losi can you give me the specific info to order the tires, rims and inserts? Also they should work ok on the losi baja rey 1/10?
The losi Baja Rey and rock Rey are compatible with most parts, I have a ford raptor Rey and ordered some vanquish wheels but idk what hex offset to use
The original body mounted with screws to plastic standoffs on the cage. Once the body is removed, some stand offs were long....I just shaved them down closer to the cage and attached the panels to it
Your upgrades are very good. I'm taking notes and buying parts. I purchased the motor, ESC, front shocks, 3rd member, servo and servo horn. I can't find the rear shocks, steering rack and servo mount. If you know of anyone having these parts in stock I'm all ears. I'm going to try the panels too. I know you can just cut the panels but I have a CNC machine I'd like to setup for it. Then I could save the file and use them again in the future if I needed to. I watch all your videos and learn a lot from them. Thank you for all you do.
Rear shocks look to be out of stock, but Pro-Line will be restocking soon. The Losi parts are all back ordered right now - especially the steering rack/servo mount. Thanks again for the great comments on the channel!
Hey man. Great build! I've done much of the same to mine. I ended up using nylon spacers from the hardware store for the top front ProLine shock mounts to secure them in place. What did you use to get your front shocks mounted snugly up top?
Just the stock screw, but used the rubber ballend deal that comes with the XT shocks. You can buy them separately if you pick up the Pro-Line Universal mounting kit
No, it was mostly a Wraith driveshaft (one half of one set), but needed two lengthened out drives to make the distance. The wraith set comes with two short and two long - remember the wraith set does both front and rear driveshafts. I had these parts laying around from another custom build. Plus, you'll need to modify the outdrives to fit the Rock Rey
On the front are you running yellow upper and lower springs? And when you say stock springs for the rear are you running green or blue (my XT's came with both)?
Hey Rich, I purchased the motor, ESC and servo (and almost everything else in this video excluding back orders). I purchased them but have since changed my mind. I live in an area where it snows a lot and I would like your opinion on a new sensored motor/ESC and servo all being waterproof without skimping on quality. Can you help me waterproof those 3 items please? Thanks Rich and love your videos!
I'm def not a guru on WP electronics, as I live in California. I know that the Tekin RX4 is somewhat WP - read about the specifics, but it's really tough to find good sensored waterproof electronics. Servo is easy - the Futaba servo I'm running is waterproof.
You made me spend sooooo much money, lol. In your other videos it looks like you put in hot racing trailing arms. You like them? I also noticed some light buckets/rear light bar. What part is that? Mine would brown out with the stock ESC if I tried crawling really slow. Added a BEC which also improved my Savox servo. There is an actual Rock Rey servo horn now. Clears everything really well. I didn't like the link between the horn and bellcrank, so I put in a Slash 4x4 one with SCTE rod ends and modded one end so it cleared the bellcrank. It's a lot stronger now and allowed me to get perfect trim. After replacing my 3rd member with the SSD, I noted it was shimmed with one washer on the inside. Gear mesh didn't seem right with it on the inside, but with a 6mm nylon on the outside it seemed perfect (I'm hoping that wasn't a bad idea). I so want to change the diff fluid in mine. Did you get new gaskets? I remember one of my SCTE diffs, the gasket didn't survive disassembly. Thanks!
Sorry, buddy! I just ran the HR trailing arms for the Nationals race, but DNF'd the first heat due to a diff failure. The rear light is a home built one a buddy of mine built. 3D printed and custom lights...there's other options out there though. Gaskets were fine on my re-builds
nick m it went in easy, you will have to take some of the edge of the locker off to clear the spur gear from what I remember, like just the ends of the +. I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel
for me.....size of the motor fitting...I knew the 3660 would fit and the Rerun was more powerful and sensored. Also usually, you'll need two run 4s on 1/18th scale motor to equal the speed of a higher kb'd 3660. it's very hard to fit decent mah 4s's in the Rey....lastly, I raced the Rey and didn't want to add additional weight as I mentioned previous
amzn.to/2vfcPM3 You pretty much need just the delrin pivot balls - The Rear XT shocks come with them. The Slash Powerstrokes do not as the slash doesn't require them.
Nice work on the upgrades and thanks for the previous review as I'm looking at rock racers. That helped. Cherry Valley? So are you in the IE? I am and some of my workmates race there. I tried RC racing in the past and wasn't particularly good at it but perhaps I'll give it another go now that I'm getting back into RC. Cherry Valley sounds like a fun venue from what my workmates say. Thanks for sharing!
Everything you do is so on point.. the rims and custom panels you made visually work together so well, have fun at the race. Was the stock motor too slow on 2s?
I was able to find the XR8 SCT Pro at my lhs, but not the 3660. They have the 3656 (in 3400 or 4700kV), the 4268 (in 1900 or 2600,kV), and the 4274 (in 2250kV). Do you think one of these would be comparable, or should I be patient and order the 3660? Also, is there a reason you chose the 3200kV over the 4300kV?
Joe Krinkey I would wait for the 3660 - it's a 550 sized can motor which is perfect for the Rock Rey - the 3656 is a bit small and the 4268 would have to be shoe-horned in and you would need to run 4s. The 3200kv is a great option on 3s and gives you the torque you need for the large tires and big drivetrain. The 4300 may do okay, but you will have heat issues.
Thank you for the info! Your videos are super helpful to a rookie like me! Out of curiosity, I generally see the Rock Rey compared to the Yeti, but have you ever compared this to the Bomber? They seem more similar to me (I'm torn between the two right now, but leaning towards the Bomber only because it's available in a kit).
Joe Krinkey you can get the Yeti in a kit also.....they compare the Yeti and Rock Rey because of the looks and they use the same suspension - Independent front and solid axle rear. The Bomber is totally different and uses two solid axles, but is similar to the Yeti's rear using trailing arms vs the Wraiths link suspension. The Bomber will drive different than the Yeti/rock rey. You'll be able to go faster/turn easier in the Yeti/rock rey with the open front differential.
Sorry, I meant I was torn between the Rock Rey and the Bomber. I didn't realize the Bomber used a solid axle in the front. Now I'm leaning toward the Rock Rey (I live in the Rockies, I think the IFS would give me more versatility in the terrain here). Seems like I've got some research to do. The info is greatly appreciated!
Hey Rich, just wondering how you find the sensored Hobbywing combo for slow going and for power (is it comparable to the existing Fuze system for power)? Is there any cogging at very low speed and can it actually now crawl (the fuze system cogs like mad)? I'm turning mine in a rock bouncer (all locked diffs) and would like decent crawling performance. I know Castle make a very popular combination (with the crawler crowd) with the MMX and their sensored motors but I have Hobbywing products far more available and affordable locally and already have the programmers and a number of HW ESC's (I'm a very happy HW owner) and was looking at your exact ESC/motor setup and wondering how it would work. Any feedback would be really appreciated!
The main difference between sensored (Hobbywing) and sesnorless (FUZE) - sensored has a great low rpm feel with no cogging at all. That's what the extra sensor wire does. It also, in the long term is more efficient. YOu can't beet the quality and affordability of HW - Also grab the Wifi Express to tune your ESC with your phone!
So even with crawling speeds (not just walking speed but loaded going really slow up/over rocks) there is no coggng? I know sensored makes a large difference but there is sensored that is crawls great and seored that is smooth but can't maintain a smooth crawl speed under load (which is the important bit - the loaded smoothness).
Hi Rich. New to this U4RC racing. Have been working on my Rock Rey to get it ready. I am experienced in 1/10th Scale off road racing but this KV rating, 4 pole motors and 2s, 3s stuff has taken me quite a bit of research to get the info I have been looking for. Your vids have been extremely helpful. I have a question for you though. Have upgraded all my electronics. Currently have a Tekin RX4 and a Maclan MR4 3500 to run on my 90c 3S batteries. What gearing, pinion, would you recommend for that setup on my Rock Rey? Any help would be appreciated. That's the only info I can't find anything on.
Stay with the stock spur gear, and probably the stock pinion.....you may need to go up a tooth or two on the pinion though depending on your track you race at. The longer the straights, the more speed you'll want. I'm currently running a 14t pinion, but a 3200kv motor (slower than your 3500kv). Also - quick tip. Find the 1.5mm set screws that are in the rear sway bar and tighten them down. It tightens the sway bar and removes most of the torque twist you'll see on the new motor
The RCNetwork Thank you for the info and the tip on the sway bar. Much appreciated. Should be in the ballpark now. Will fine tune once I get my Rock Rey on the track.
You'll be amazed! I couldn't believe the power of the Rock rey with a decent system....Chekc out the rest of my mods....also, don't forget to switch out those diff screws (the phillps tiny screws holding the bevel of the diff cup. They'll shear off with the power of the new motor
The RCNetwork I have all the mods you do plus a few more of the aluminum Losi upgrades. What kind of screws do I need to replace the Phillips ones with. Have it all apart right now to put locker in center diff anyway and fluid in the front. SSD 3rd member is going in too. So perfect time to replace those screws you mentioned
Darren Barwick totally not sure...I grabbed some from my hardware bin. I used cap head and a bit longer than the stock - and fine thread. Check the FB group....it's in an early post with a TRX part number.
Hello guys just wanted to ask......I accidently plugged my battery incorectly, black in red, red in black(pls do not ask me why or how) it was a Mamba monster.....smoke and sparks came out...do you think the esc is dead or is there something I could do to get it back working? THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR HELP!!!
Peter Fusek Unfortunately it's probably ruined. I did the same thing once, then, I found out that they have an exchange program on the Castle Creations website. If it's still under warranty they have an option for that but if it's out of warranty they will still fix it for a price. They charge about half as much to replace your damaged ESC rather than buying a new one.
Peter Fusek not sure of which model you have, but many higher end ESC's have capacitor banks for this and when reverse polarity happens it smokes the bank.....kinda like a safety blanket. I would contact Castle and be honest and see what can be done. Best case - replace the cap bank if it has one. Worst case - time for a new ESC, which Castle may have a replacement program for.
yes do what they said and then switch to Deans connectors on all your stuff. you'll never plug in reversed with deans I can reach under my truck and plug in the battery without looking and not worry.
![ROSÉ (로제) - number one girl [더 시즌즈-이영지의 레인보우] | KBS 241129 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A9oByH9Ci24/mqdefault.jpg)
Ok now I remember watching this cause this is what made me buy those hyrax tires. Great info. Thanks a million!!!
Nice! With almost 1,000 video now on RUclips, I usually have video of almost everything! lol
@@TheRCNetwork Great videos at that. Thank you for the all the time and help you give to this community.
Awesome build Rich!
Thanks Greg...always good to see you in the comments!
Custom rear drive shaft is dope, Im surprised that MIP didn't take your idea and offer a version of their own? Im a fan of their parts hopefully the SSD Rear Drive Shaft that I have recently installed lasts.
Cheers 👍👍
Thanks - it wasn't too hard. Minimal effort on MIP's part to make it happen - but enough people need to email them with the request
Well done though, still trying to figure out how to center the holes on the panels to fit the posts. On my second sheet of aluminum panel 😒 any suggestions?
So, you're talking on the side panels......to fit the posts?
How were you able to tell that the steering mount looked weak when diving if it is covered up by the body ?🤔
I had the steering apart after about 10 minutes of driving it - the servo horn stripped. Since I didn't have a 23t servo horn, I dropped in a Futaba servo with a 25t horn. All was fixed, but the steering overall was weak
Has your factory steering arm that attaches the servo to the steering rack break yet? I ended up upgrading mine with revo rod ends and a basic shorty steering rod.
Nearly before I replaced it...it had a ton of play
Body looks awesome , great idea . very keen to see it run . good luck 🖒🖒
Thanks CA. I think it improves the looks greatly
Nice liking those tires also!
Favorite off road tire right now
Nice job,how did you mount the proline shocks
They mounted right up, although the fronts will need a part from the universal mounting kit - the plastic ballend with spacer
Awesome video very nice build great job thumbs up
Thanks MRB!
need a running video of this and your wraith
+Jackson Watts I'll get some Race footage at the next race on 6/17. It will be probably raced in the 2.2 unlimited class
Did you stay with 45 wt in the front and 20 wt in the rear during racing?
Wesley Dean yep, that’s the ticket!
Thanks very much...You are a Movie Star, very professional Videos...New to RCing, you vids really helping me in my Rock Rey Build...Thanks keep them coming 5Stars :)
Naw, just an ordinary guy that loves RC and making some videos
Did the SSD third member with the larger pinion *require* the custom driveshaft you put together? Or is there another option there perhaps less durable?
The stock driveshaft was so difficult to remove, I had to drill the red-loctited set pin to remove...so I was somewhat forced to make my own! lol
I just got a used losi baja rey 1/10 and I really like the wheels (tires and rims) that you put on this Losi can you give me the specific info to order the tires, rims and inserts? Also they should work ok on the losi baja rey 1/10?
The losi Baja Rey and rock Rey are compatible with most parts, I have a ford raptor Rey and ordered some vanquish wheels but idk what hex offset to use
Man, your videos are fantastic!!! This was great to watch.
Thanks Patrick!
i had too cut the 5mm shaft about 5-8 mm on mine because would not fit did you need to?
Have you upgraded the screws that hold the ring gears on the diffs we have gone through 3 diffs due to snapped rings
Hey Rich any plan to make a series on the team associated RC8B3.1E ?
Maybe....trying to work in another 1/8th scale right now
So when you made the panels flush how did you do that specifically
The original body mounted with screws to plastic standoffs on the cage. Once the body is removed, some stand offs were long....I just shaved them down closer to the cage and attached the panels to it
@@TheRCNetwork ok did you have to make a new screw hole or does it go all the way through
What size batteries are you running with the Hobbywing 3660 3200kv motor? I would assume a 50-60c 3s?
do you have any videos on changing the diff oil on the RR?
no, but it's pretty easy. lots of disassembly though
What weight oil are you running in the front,center, and rear diffs for the U4 racing?
Oh great video series..
Thanks wesley!
Your upgrades are very good. I'm taking notes and buying parts. I purchased the motor, ESC, front shocks, 3rd member, servo and servo horn. I can't find the rear shocks, steering rack and servo mount. If you know of anyone having these parts in stock I'm all ears.
I'm going to try the panels too. I know you can just cut the panels but I have a CNC machine I'd like to setup for it. Then I could save the file and use them again in the future if I needed to. I watch all your videos and learn a lot from them. Thank you for all you do.
Rear shocks look to be out of stock, but Pro-Line will be restocking soon. The Losi parts are all back ordered right now - especially the steering rack/servo mount. Thanks again for the great comments on the channel!
The RCNetwork Thanks for the update. Guess I'll try to find patience somewhere. :-)
Me too...I'm looking for some other parts as well!
Sweet Rig! I need one.
Thanks CRC
Hey man. Great build!
I've done much of the same to mine. I ended up using nylon spacers from the hardware store for the top front ProLine shock mounts to secure them in place. What did you use to get your front shocks mounted snugly up top?
Just the stock screw, but used the rubber ballend deal that comes with the XT shocks. You can buy them separately if you pick up the Pro-Line Universal mounting kit
I didnt get well the part of the rear shaft!! you had to buy 2 and make 1?
No, it was mostly a Wraith driveshaft (one half of one set), but needed two lengthened out drives to make the distance. The wraith set comes with two short and two long - remember the wraith set does both front and rear driveshafts. I had these parts laying around from another custom build. Plus, you'll need to modify the outdrives to fit the Rock Rey
The RCNetwork ok thanks. I have nonexperiemce with the wraith and I just broke the rear shaft so I was wondering what to order!
for my baja rey shaft I meant!
On the front are you running yellow upper and lower springs? And when you say stock springs for the rear are you running green or blue (my XT's came with both)?
yeah, yellow on both upper and lower on the fronts and yellow upper and red lower on the rears
awesome job. thank for all the info
Thanks for stopping by!
looks great!
Thanks FH
I went over board with the motor on mine, 3800 kv
Yeah, watch those temps
What kind or size hex extenders to clear in the front wheels
Just the stock hubs that came on the SSD wheels
Hey Rich, I purchased the motor, ESC and servo (and almost everything else in this video excluding back orders). I purchased them but have since changed my mind. I live in an area where it snows a lot and I would like your opinion on a new sensored motor/ESC and servo all being waterproof without skimping on quality. Can you help me waterproof those 3 items please? Thanks Rich and love your videos!
I'm def not a guru on WP electronics, as I live in California. I know that the Tekin RX4 is somewhat WP - read about the specifics, but it's really tough to find good sensored waterproof electronics. Servo is easy - the Futaba servo I'm running is waterproof.
Thanks Rich, I'll check it out. Appreciate the feedback.
You made me spend sooooo much money, lol. In your other videos it looks like you put in hot racing trailing arms. You like them? I also noticed some light buckets/rear light bar. What part is that? Mine would brown out with the stock ESC if I tried crawling really slow. Added a BEC which also improved my Savox servo. There is an actual Rock Rey servo horn now. Clears everything really well. I didn't like the link between the horn and bellcrank, so I put in a Slash 4x4 one with SCTE rod ends and modded one end so it cleared the bellcrank. It's a lot stronger now and allowed me to get perfect trim. After replacing my 3rd member with the SSD, I noted it was shimmed with one washer on the inside. Gear mesh didn't seem right with it on the inside, but with a 6mm nylon on the outside it seemed perfect (I'm hoping that wasn't a bad idea). I so want to change the diff fluid in mine. Did you get new gaskets? I remember one of my SCTE diffs, the gasket didn't survive disassembly. Thanks!
Sorry, buddy! I just ran the HR trailing arms for the Nationals race, but DNF'd the first heat due to a diff failure. The rear light is a home built one a buddy of mine built. 3D printed and custom lights...there's other options out there though. Gaskets were fine on my re-builds
hows the vertarra center diff lock go in, any tips. i have it all part already.
nick m it went in easy, you will have to take some of the edge of the locker off to clear the spur gear from what I remember, like just the ends of the +. I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel
damn that is a beautiful truck. when will you show ur collection?
Thanks BAC44! Soon maybe, although I only hold on to about 15-20 at one time
@@TheRCNetwork "only"
why to change form 3660 to 3660? Why not a 70/74 or a 40'ish motor?
for me.....size of the motor fitting...I knew the 3660 would fit and the Rerun was more powerful and sensored. Also usually, you'll need two run 4s on 1/18th scale motor to equal the speed of a higher kb'd 3660. it's very hard to fit decent mah 4s's in the Rey....lastly, I raced the Rey and didn't want to add additional weight as I mentioned previous
Do u use diff oils in front and rear diffs, and what weight
i wanted to ask if i could use the powerstroke shocks for my 1/8 buggy?
I wouldn't....they're not a large enough bore, plus the spring rate would be way off
I still want to see more running videos
Bill Deng I just posted some Race footage of this rig running in last weekends race....It's been torn down for repairs now for the upcoming nationals
What adapters do I need for the Proline shocks? I picked up a pair for the front and cannot seem to get them to fit.
amzn.to/2vfcPM3 You pretty much need just the delrin pivot balls - The Rear XT shocks come with them. The Slash Powerstrokes do not as the slash doesn't require them.
Nice work on the upgrades and thanks for the previous review as I'm looking at rock racers. That helped.
Cherry Valley? So are you in the IE? I am and some of my workmates race there. I tried RC racing in the past and wasn't particularly good at it but perhaps I'll give it another go now that I'm getting back into RC. Cherry Valley sounds like a fun venue from what my workmates say. Thanks for sharing!
looks good rich.
Thanks humble
What hardware did you end up using to attach all your panels?
The stock sized hardware, just no washers
@@TheRCNetwork but yours are stainless, stock looks black? What size nut are they?
Thank you
she looks good
Thanks Jumpstart!
Everything you do is so on point.. the rims and custom panels you made visually work together so well, have fun at the race.
Was the stock motor too slow on 2s?
+JDM enduro I only ran the stock motor on 3s and it was pretty decent. 2s would be pretty slow.
I was able to find the XR8 SCT Pro at my lhs, but not the 3660. They have the 3656 (in 3400 or 4700kV), the 4268 (in 1900 or 2600,kV), and the 4274 (in 2250kV). Do you think one of these would be comparable, or should I be patient and order the 3660? Also, is there a reason you chose the 3200kV over the 4300kV?
Joe Krinkey I would wait for the 3660 - it's a 550 sized can motor which is perfect for the Rock Rey - the 3656 is a bit small and the 4268 would have to be shoe-horned in and you would need to run 4s.
The 3200kv is a great option on 3s and gives you the torque you need for the large tires and big drivetrain. The 4300 may do okay, but you will have heat issues.
Thank you for the info! Your videos are super helpful to a rookie like me! Out of curiosity, I generally see the Rock Rey compared to the Yeti, but have you ever compared this to the Bomber? They seem more similar to me (I'm torn between the two right now, but leaning towards the Bomber only because it's available in a kit).
Joe Krinkey you can get the Yeti in a kit also.....they compare the Yeti and Rock Rey because of the looks and they use the same suspension - Independent front and solid axle rear. The Bomber is totally different and uses two solid axles, but is similar to the Yeti's rear using trailing arms vs the Wraiths link suspension. The Bomber will drive different than the Yeti/rock rey. You'll be able to go faster/turn easier in the Yeti/rock rey with the open front differential.
Sorry, I meant I was torn between the Rock Rey and the Bomber. I didn't realize the Bomber used a solid axle in the front. Now I'm leaning toward the Rock Rey (I live in the Rockies, I think the IFS would give me more versatility in the terrain here). Seems like I've got some research to do. The info is greatly appreciated!
I just realized the XR8 SCT isn't waterproof. Are there any comparable ESC/motor combos that would do better in wet terrain?
Hey Rich, just wondering how you find the sensored Hobbywing combo for slow going and for power (is it comparable to the existing Fuze system for power)?
Is there any cogging at very low speed and can it actually now crawl (the fuze system cogs like mad)? I'm turning mine in a rock bouncer (all locked diffs) and would like decent crawling performance.
I know Castle make a very popular combination (with the crawler crowd) with the MMX and their sensored motors but I have Hobbywing products far more available and affordable locally and already have the programmers and a number of HW ESC's (I'm a very happy HW owner) and was looking at your exact ESC/motor setup and wondering how it would work. Any feedback would be really appreciated!
The main difference between sensored (Hobbywing) and sesnorless (FUZE) - sensored has a great low rpm feel with no cogging at all. That's what the extra sensor wire does. It also, in the long term is more efficient. YOu can't beet the quality and affordability of HW - Also grab the Wifi Express to tune your ESC with your phone!
So even with crawling speeds (not just walking speed but loaded going really slow up/over rocks) there is no coggng? I know sensored makes a large difference but there is sensored that is crawls great and seored that is smooth but can't maintain a smooth crawl speed under load (which is the important bit - the loaded smoothness).
Zero cogging on sensored/brushless. That's why racers and pros use sensored
What does the center locker do to the handling?
mobbinthesteez in my opinion, it makes the drivability worse, but it's the rules for U4RC - a locked center diff or 3 gear trans
Hi Rich. New to this U4RC racing. Have been working on my Rock Rey to get it ready. I am experienced in 1/10th Scale off road racing but this KV rating, 4 pole motors and 2s, 3s stuff has taken me quite a bit of research to get the info I have been looking for. Your vids have been extremely helpful. I have a question for you though. Have upgraded all my electronics. Currently have a Tekin RX4 and a Maclan MR4 3500 to run on my 90c 3S batteries. What gearing, pinion, would you recommend for that setup on my Rock Rey? Any help would be appreciated. That's the only info I can't find anything on.
Stay with the stock spur gear, and probably the stock pinion.....you may need to go up a tooth or two on the pinion though depending on your track you race at. The longer the straights, the more speed you'll want. I'm currently running a 14t pinion, but a 3200kv motor (slower than your 3500kv). Also - quick tip. Find the 1.5mm set screws that are in the rear sway bar and tighten them down. It tightens the sway bar and removes most of the torque twist you'll see on the new motor
The RCNetwork Thank you for the info and the tip on the sway bar. Much appreciated. Should be in the ballpark now. Will fine tune once I get my Rock Rey on the track.
You'll be amazed! I couldn't believe the power of the Rock rey with a decent system....Chekc out the rest of my mods....also, don't forget to switch out those diff screws (the phillps tiny screws holding the bevel of the diff cup. They'll shear off with the power of the new motor
The RCNetwork I have all the mods you do plus a few more of the aluminum Losi upgrades. What kind of screws do I need to replace the Phillips ones with. Have it all apart right now to put locker in center diff anyway and fluid in the front. SSD 3rd member is going in too. So perfect time to replace those screws you mentioned
Darren Barwick totally not sure...I grabbed some from my hardware bin. I used cap head and a bit longer than the stock - and fine thread. Check the FB group....it's in an early post with a TRX part number.
What hardware are you using to attach your panels?
Just standard 3mm x 8mm stainless hardware into the existing holes. I shaved the posts down though - some I had to drill deeper (the bottom ones)
@@TheRCNetwork perfect thank you:)
Im guessing you did 45 weight oil in the front for stability?
Yes, and it's a different shock overall than stock. Plus I like a bit firmer shock...especially under the added weight
Yea and how much did u spend on that
Beautiful......
Thanks Smithesh!
Nice Rich
Thanks MTC!
nice truck
Why didn't you get the new vanquish f9 axle?
Jordan Phillips it came out right after the SSD 3rd member....which I already had. I want to give this one a try before the F9's...
thats how it should be sold
I agree...but the price would be way out of most people's reach.
Ya your right there
nice!
Thanks g405t
Hello guys just wanted to ask......I accidently plugged my battery incorectly, black in red, red in black(pls do not ask me why or how) it was a Mamba monster.....smoke and sparks came out...do you think the esc is dead or is there something I could do to get it back working? THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR HELP!!!
how have you had it could still be on the warenty
Peter Fusek Unfortunately it's probably ruined. I did the same thing once, then, I found out that they have an exchange program on the Castle Creations website. If it's still under warranty they have an option for that but if it's out of warranty they will still fix it for a price. They charge about half as much to replace your damaged ESC rather than buying a new one.
Peter Fusek not sure of which model you have, but many higher end ESC's have capacitor banks for this and when reverse polarity happens it smokes the bank.....kinda like a safety blanket. I would contact Castle and be honest and see what can be done. Best case - replace the cap bank if it has one. Worst case - time for a new ESC, which Castle may have a replacement program for.
yes do what they said and then switch to Deans connectors on all your stuff. you'll never plug in reversed with deans I can reach under my truck and plug in the battery without looking and not worry.
take a shot of vodka everytime he says rock rey
Please do.....
At least you write back most high sub youtubers never write back so I subbed cool