Very good information Michael and well explained! On the point of shortening the ridge, we normally face the last pair of rafters with a saddle board or a type of gusset board for the hip rafters to rest against as they have a longer plumb cut, the crown rafter in between is also built down with a triangular block or the same rafter thickness and this enables a longer plumb cut on the crown rafter similar in length to the plumb cut of the hips.
Great video mate to jerrybee when you cut a45 bevel on a square line it is exactly 45 degrees but when you cut it for example to a 30 degrees pitch the side cut for the creeper rafter will be 40.9 degrees with the saw remaining on 45 degrees
very informative, thank you. I am building a room with hip roof using steel structure. Does the same rule apply as using timber? Also, the strength of steel is much higher than wood, do I need to consider different size for HIP rafters, and Ridge? I can not find anywhere a guide for the spacing of the common rafters Is there a rule to follow? thank you.
I have a common Rafters with an 8 inch overhang.How do I measure the overhang on the hip rafter?Do I measure an 8 inch square diagonal? I’m very confused
The short answer is yes. I am hoping by overhang you mean 'projection' or the horizontal travel of the tail of the common rafter, in which case the horizontal of the hip rafter would be 11 5/16" or √(8² + 8²)
You're using 45 degree angles for every side cut angle. This works well for shallow pitches, but not as well for steeper pitches. You can use the side cut angle info. stamped into your square for a better fit.
I mark my side cut angle lines first, then the plumb lines. You are doing pretty much the same thing, only in s reverse way than what I do. I only end up with two plumb angle lines on the side.
45° is the bevel angle at which the power saw is set while cutting along the plumb cut line. The side cut angle ratios are used to mark the top edge of the Hip rafter (or Jack rafters) which is used as a guide for cutting the rafters with a handsaw.
@@michaelnauth Yes, I know, but the side cut angles at the top can be cut with a circular saw, if you have one that goes beyond a 45° bevel. This will give a better fit.
@@Jay-tk7ib Try cutting along the plumb cut line with the saw bevelled at 45° and you will see that it produces a steeper than 45° cut at the top of the rafter. Should produce a perfect fit at the ridge. Also try using a Mitre saw for increased accuracy.
I'm saying that the ridge plumb cut can be cut with a bevel greater than 45°, cutting the side cut angles at the proper angles. I know that not all saws go beyond 45°.
A 30° roof is close to a 7/12 slope, or a 6.928/12 slope. The hypotenuse of 7-12 triangle is 13.89 (on line 1 of the Framing Square Rafter Tables), and for 6.928-12 triangle, it is 13.856. To find the Hip Rafter, you would find the hypotenuse of the 7-17 triangle (or 7-16.97 , the diagonal of a 12x12 square), and you would get 18.36, found on line 2 of the Tables. To get the bevel angle, you would calculate or measure the small angle of the 7-18.36 triangle, INV TAN (7÷18.36) or 20.87°. For your 30° roof, the hypotenuse of 6.928-16.97 triangle is 18.33, and the bevel angle INV TAN (6.928÷18.33) is 20.7°. Incidentally, 49.1° is the angle of the 13.856-12 triangle, INV TAN (13.856÷12).
Very good information Michael and well explained! On the point of shortening the ridge, we normally face the last pair of rafters with a saddle board or a type of gusset board for the hip rafters to rest against as they have a longer plumb cut, the crown rafter in between is also built down with a triangular block or the same rafter thickness and this enables a longer plumb cut on the crown rafter similar in length to the plumb cut of the hips.
Excellent idea, especially when the rafters are exposed.
Needed this video at this point. Thanks!
Great video mate to jerrybee when you cut a45 bevel on a square line it is exactly 45 degrees but when you cut it for example to a 30 degrees pitch the side cut for the creeper rafter will be 40.9 degrees with the saw remaining on 45 degrees
Thank you V.P.
very informative, thank you. I am building a room with hip roof using steel structure. Does the same rule apply as using timber?
Also, the strength of steel is much higher than wood, do I need to consider different size for HIP rafters, and Ridge?
I can not find anywhere a guide for the spacing of the common rafters Is there a rule to follow?
thank you.
Thank you 🙏🏽
Great teaching. I want more.
Awesome
I have a common Rafters with an 8 inch overhang.How do I measure the overhang on the hip rafter?Do I measure an 8 inch square diagonal? I’m very confused
The short answer is yes. I am hoping by overhang you mean 'projection' or the horizontal travel of the tail of the common rafter, in which case the horizontal of the hip rafter would be 11 5/16" or √(8² + 8²)
@@michaelnauth yes that is exactly what I meant.Thank you for the reply.Huge help
Awesome video thanks!
Welcome!
You're using 45 degree angles for every side cut angle. This works well for shallow pitches, but not as well for steeper pitches. You can use the side cut angle info. stamped into your square for a better fit.
I mark my side cut angle lines first, then the plumb lines. You are doing pretty much the same thing, only in s reverse way than what I do. I only end up with two plumb angle lines on the side.
45° is the bevel angle at which the power saw is set while cutting along the plumb cut line. The side cut angle ratios are used to mark the top edge of the Hip rafter (or Jack rafters) which is used as a guide for cutting the rafters with a handsaw.
@@michaelnauth Yes, I know, but the side cut angles at the top can be cut with a circular saw, if you have one that goes beyond a 45° bevel. This will give a better fit.
@@Jay-tk7ib Try cutting along the plumb cut line with the saw bevelled at 45° and you will see that it produces a steeper than 45° cut at the top of the rafter. Should produce a perfect fit at the ridge. Also try using a Mitre saw for increased accuracy.
I'm saying that the ridge plumb cut can be cut with a bevel greater than 45°, cutting the side cut angles at the proper angles. I know that not all saws go beyond 45°.
What would you set the saw bevel to for cutting a purlin if the edge bevel purlin is 49.1 degrees from a 30 degree roof
A 30° roof is close to a 7/12 slope, or a 6.928/12 slope. The hypotenuse of 7-12 triangle is 13.89 (on line 1 of the Framing Square Rafter Tables), and for 6.928-12 triangle, it is 13.856. To find the Hip Rafter, you would find the hypotenuse of the 7-17 triangle (or 7-16.97 , the diagonal of a 12x12 square), and you would get 18.36, found on line 2 of the Tables. To get the bevel angle, you would calculate or measure the small angle of the 7-18.36 triangle, INV TAN (7÷18.36) or 20.87°.
For your 30° roof, the hypotenuse of 6.928-16.97 triangle is 18.33, and the bevel angle INV TAN (6.928÷18.33) is 20.7°. Incidentally, 49.1° is the angle of the 13.856-12 triangle, INV TAN (13.856÷12).
Great and Very understandable , Thank you
Thank you Mohamed.
Mohamed Ebraheem it’s taking him too long to get to the lesson
nice video,little blurry now and then but it was very good.
Thanks - just getting used to the software.
GOOD JOB
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