Daughter is 650 miles away at college. We identified the problem over facetime, she picked up the correct check valve / grommet, and I sent her your video. She was able to replace on her own. Braking power restored and hissing noise gone. Thank you very much!!
My 25 year old Jeep "sneezed" and broke the old part. My friend/mechanic looked at a photo and told me to replace this part. It's always a matter of confidence w/ me and you video helped alot. It was easy and it worked. Thank you!
Thanks for watching, Janet, and I'm glad it helped. I agree - having the confidence to tackle the project is a big part of the battle. Good luck on the next project!
I appreciate this video. I'm changing one a Liberty didn't know what or how any of this until your video. 🤙🏻 Your bluntness reminds me of Scotty Kilmer on RUclips 😂 good stuff ty!
Thanks! It’s definitely a love-hate relationship. LEGO for adults means it’s pretty easy to work on yourself. Just Empty Every Pocket (JEEP) means the bank account stays near empty.
Man! You saved me from been trouble shooting more than a week! Im trying to get more lose working on my cars and not that many years learning of the combustion motors-cars but enough to get a good experience working on this New Mountain in my life, 2010 60k. Did a TuneUp but couldn’t figure out what theee was happening. After more than a week and suddenly end up watching your video a when I tried disconnecting the hose… Bingo! The valve has a leak! 👌🏽 thanks and good days!
having the same problem . the whistle sound if I hit the brake pedal fast and hard. worth replacing the check valve instead of taking it to dealer . for sure they will recommend to replace the vacuum booster and probably the master cylinder. LOL..
Thanks for the video. 👌🏽 But, I pressed the brake with the engine on & turned it off while still holding the brake. NO movement even after 45 seconds. Pressed the brakes 3x while engine was off, stopped in the same spot 3x. Depressed about 3-4" with the same negative resistance. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. (95 GMC Yukon)
The brake booster, if it's working, should be providing vacuum assist to your brake pedal so if it's not working, it would be a lot harder/stiffer to push the pedal and get the brakes to operate. Also means that with the engine off, the pedal should be stiffer after pumping the pedal once or twice. Since you're getting the same pedal travel with the engine on and off, probably not the booster. If the brake pedal is depressing further than it should (or all the way to the floor), it sounds like you might need to bleed your brakes or you have a brake line/fluid leak. Look for fluid on the ground near the wheels or under the brake manifold in the engine bay. If you're not sure, best to have a brake shop look at it - definitely don't want to be in a situation where you're driving with no brakes. Thanks for watching and I hope you figure it out!
@@CarbonsDIYGarage so with the engine off the pedal stops half way. Multiple pressing of the brakes, same position. With the engine on, the pedal is almost to the floor, but multiple presses the brake gets harder each time. The check valve is working properly.
@@ArtDaBarber619 The next thing I would probably try, assuming you don't see brake fluid on the ground, is bleeding the brakes. Beyond that, I'm not sure what I'd try next; sorry.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage I greatly appreciate your advice. I will bleed all four corners & the ABS system next. Hopefully that will make a noticeable difference. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching. I tried multiple times to make the noise on video before I replaced it but it seemed to do it only when I was braking from a speed over 30mph or so. I haven’t heard the noise since, though.
Thanks for watching! I don't know if the issue is fully fixed, or if there was really no issue to start with and it was all in my head, but I haven't had/heard the issue in a long time. It's certainly not worse and the brake booster is working just fine with the new check valve.
the brakes in my car (Opel Astra) work ok, but since some time ago the noise only occurs when pressing and releasing. There is no noise when fully pressed or released, or when it's pressed halfway. The noise occurs both when the engine is on and off. The brakes pass the test, BUT the noise appeared. is this a possible problem in the future? Here is the video ruclips.net/video/C2P89jiYrAk/видео.html
Ive never done it this helped. The thing that made me question my check valve is how much smaller the hole was in the new rubber seal. You were able to install it with one hand so i know I'm good. Great video thanks !!
@@renegade9758 If the engine is stalling, I don't think it would be your brake booster. Brake booster just helps in applying brake pressure so you can stop. If the engine is quitting or stalling, the problem will be something else.
Check out the video description for extra info, parts, tools, torques, and any updates.
Daughter is 650 miles away at college. We identified the problem over facetime, she picked up the correct check valve / grommet, and I sent her your video. She was able to replace on her own. Braking power restored and hissing noise gone. Thank you very much!!
@@ted7225 So glad to hear it! I’m glad it helped get her safely back on the road. Thanks for watching!
As a 60 yr old disabled woman I thank you greatly!
Thanks for watching!
My 25 year old Jeep "sneezed" and broke the old part. My friend/mechanic looked at a photo and told me to replace this part. It's always a matter of confidence w/ me and you video helped alot. It was easy and it worked. Thank you!
Thanks for watching, Janet, and I'm glad it helped. I agree - having the confidence to tackle the project is a big part of the battle. Good luck on the next project!
Very helpful video! I just purchased a new vacuum valve and your video came just handy. Thank you so much.
Glad it helped, Jorge. Thanks for watching!
I appreciate this video. I'm changing one a Liberty didn't know what or how any of this until your video. 🤙🏻 Your bluntness reminds me of Scotty Kilmer on RUclips 😂 good stuff ty!
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching. I’m glad it helped!
Every time I watch you fix your keep it makes me wish I had a jeep. Thanks for the great video!
Thanks! It’s definitely a love-hate relationship. LEGO for adults means it’s pretty easy to work on yourself. Just Empty Every Pocket (JEEP) means the bank account stays near empty.
Man! You saved me from been trouble shooting more than a week! Im trying to get more lose working on my cars and not that many years learning of the combustion motors-cars but enough to get a good experience working on this New Mountain in my life, 2010 60k. Did a TuneUp but couldn’t figure out what theee was happening. After more than a week and suddenly end up watching your video a when I tried disconnecting the hose… Bingo! The valve has a leak! 👌🏽 thanks and good days!
Awesome! I’m glad the video helped and glad you figured it out! Good luck with your future projects and thanks for watching.
having the same problem . the whistle sound if I hit the brake pedal fast and hard. worth replacing the check valve instead of taking it to dealer . for sure they will recommend to replace the vacuum booster and probably the master cylinder. LOL..
Excellent! I hope this resolves the problem for you. Thanks for watching, Steve.
Thanks for the video. 👌🏽 But, I pressed the brake with the engine on & turned it off while still holding the brake. NO movement even after 45 seconds. Pressed the brakes 3x while engine was off, stopped in the same spot 3x. Depressed about 3-4" with the same negative resistance. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. (95 GMC Yukon)
The brake booster, if it's working, should be providing vacuum assist to your brake pedal so if it's not working, it would be a lot harder/stiffer to push the pedal and get the brakes to operate. Also means that with the engine off, the pedal should be stiffer after pumping the pedal once or twice.
Since you're getting the same pedal travel with the engine on and off, probably not the booster. If the brake pedal is depressing further than it should (or all the way to the floor), it sounds like you might need to bleed your brakes or you have a brake line/fluid leak. Look for fluid on the ground near the wheels or under the brake manifold in the engine bay.
If you're not sure, best to have a brake shop look at it - definitely don't want to be in a situation where you're driving with no brakes.
Thanks for watching and I hope you figure it out!
@@CarbonsDIYGarage so with the engine off the pedal stops half way. Multiple pressing of the brakes, same position. With the engine on, the pedal is almost to the floor, but multiple presses the brake gets harder each time. The check valve is working properly.
@@ArtDaBarber619 The next thing I would probably try, assuming you don't see brake fluid on the ground, is bleeding the brakes.
Beyond that, I'm not sure what I'd try next; sorry.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage I greatly appreciate your advice. I will bleed all four corners & the ABS system next. Hopefully that will make a noticeable difference. Thanks again.
I wished you showed if it still made the noise when you stepped on the brake before and after
Thanks for watching. I tried multiple times to make the noise on video before I replaced it but it seemed to do it only when I was braking from a speed over 30mph or so. I haven’t heard the noise since, though.
A 7.00 fix. Thanks man!
Hey sir great video
Does it work?
That what I want to know
Thanks for watching! I don't know if the issue is fully fixed, or if there was really no issue to start with and it was all in my head, but I haven't had/heard the issue in a long time. It's certainly not worse and the brake booster is working just fine with the new check valve.
the brakes in my car (Opel Astra) work ok, but since some time ago the noise only occurs when pressing and releasing. There is no noise when fully pressed or released, or when it's pressed halfway. The noise occurs both when the engine is on and off. The brakes pass the test, BUT the noise appeared. is this a possible problem in the future?
Here is the video ruclips.net/video/C2P89jiYrAk/видео.html
Hope this saves me $1200
I hope so too! If it does, feel free to send a couple hundred my way... :D
(kidding, kidding!)
Thanks for watching.
Ive never done it this helped. The thing that made me question my check valve is how much smaller the hole was in the new rubber seal. You were able to install it with one hand so i know I'm good. Great video thanks !!
Thanks for watching, Randy! Five minute, one-handed task - can't beat that, right? Hope the repair works out for you.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage my grand cherokee stalling when i brake at the stop?? Its my brake bosster its the problems??
@@renegade9758 If the engine is stalling, I don't think it would be your brake booster. Brake booster just helps in applying brake pressure so you can stop. If the engine is quitting or stalling, the problem will be something else.
@@CarbonsDIYGarage ok i dont have a dtc code or nothing code
@@CarbonsDIYGarage its stall just when i brake at the stop .when i push the brake the rpm its high