Check out this great Pinball Art Book: amzn.to/2S3fLZl ANYTHING! you buy on Amazon after clicking that link doesn't raise your prices but gives us a referral tip, thank you!
I like how the stain came out on the Full House you showed from a few years ago. It fit the theme really nicely and made it look like the machine came out of a saloon.
A buddy of mine back in Tennessee is a collector and restorer. That's where I picked up Blue Chip and Capt Card . 2 of the rarest machines I have ever owned. I've been working on E.M pinball machines for 35 years now and really enjoy doing it .
Just have to say, the electrical mechanics of these early or any pinball machine is amazing. For you to be able to diagnose problems and get them working again is a work of art. Love your videos man. These were/are the games of my childhood. Keep them coming.
I owned a Williams Teachers Pet yrs ago that had this cabinet design. It was called an odd new cabinet design and only lasted for a few models . So far the best card themed pinball that I've played so far and once owned was a 1974 Gottlieb Capt Card . There were only 750 produced. I kept it for a couple of years and eventually sold it to Herb Silvers. I paid 450 for it ,and sold it for I think around 800. The machine was in poor working order when I got it . After some work and TLC , it was playing like a brand new machine. I loved the art work on it which was done by Gordon Morrison.
@@LyonsArcade Absolutely. I keep my eyes open periodically from the usual sources but things are almost always super inflated in prices. It's the area I live in. Full of Microsoft millionaires who can afford to spend more than something is worth. Good if yer selling, bad if yer buying! Someday I will get one.
Awesome, I just obtained one of these machines... Full House! All works great and it's a tuff machine to get to 2500/3000 points or bet the dealer. Thanks for the video Joe!
Our family had a Show Boat machine back in the mid-70's. You had to manually load each ball to the plunger by pushing a rod into the machine (you could actually see balls remaining through the playfield). It would lift the ball up to the plunger. It worked, but was missing some scoring lane trip wires. Score to beat? 1000 of course! Good Times...
Hi Rod! We had one called "Flipper Parade" onetime like that, it was kind of neat with the push rod. That was how some of the old Gottlieb games did it... Very fun games, I like the style of them.
when something is magnetized the atoms (for a simple explanation) are in line when you heat (or hit with a hammer) you give the metal enought energy to allow the atoms to move and go random again
Played this machine when I was a kid at Eddie's Place in Ste. Genevieve, MO. One of the old drunks gave me and a buddy a dime each. Machine went crazy on me. Must have won 7 games free. Proprietor had never seen anything like it. Probably....1968.
I've been watching your em videos almost a week now, grasp something each video, you are by far the best teacher on em's that i have saw on you tube. 👍 keep up the great work my friend.👏👏
I have one of these machines, it’s a pity the case has been painted white... Mine has worn back glass - caused by the dealers hand lights behind the ace - the heat damaged the paint. I gave mine a full service in 2015 and replaced the bulbs with led’s replacements - yellow white for play field and white for back glass - the machine is a lot quieter as the transformer has such a light load on it now(less buzzing) - I have a copy of schematics and this helped fixing a silly problem that someone ‘fixed’ and got it working correctly.
Yeah I liked this one... it had it all, fun little scoring gimmick, great artwork, cool theme.... very fun :) Thanks for watching Bob we appreciate it as always!
Your videos are very educational. We actually have one of these tables. There seems to be a major issue as the machine will not start. We have cleaned and lubricated all of the game/ball/score reels. I have the schematics and can not see what the problem could be.
@24:16 wants that game boy game Final Fantasy Legend & Thank you, Joe's Classic Video Games, much appreciated 1966 Williams Full House Pinball Machine repair.
like how the modern 1990's fun house's rudy looks like the woman on the 1966 machine, funhouse(1990) is one of my all time fav pinballs along with dr who and the 1980's ? pinball 8 ball
TIL the operators can set the matching to liberal or conservative. Also learned that some games determine outcome by which digit is in which place in the score.
Joe, what's a Shooter Tip? To change the light bulbs... I need one of those...LOL! I also need the plastic that covers the center wheel as mine is broken on top left corner. Finally, could the flippers be replaced with a 1/2" longer flipper or maybe installing a center pin bumper between flippers... just a thought... not sure because it changes it from original
There is a little rubber bumper on the tip of the shooter rod, with a hole in it to slide over the shooter rod, it's the perfect size to slide over the bulbs too to put them in the holes. You could probably replace the flippers but I've never messed with that, I just play them the way they were made, they're supposed to be that length. That center plastic piece you're probably not going to be able to find, I don't believe anybody's made a replacement because it only fits the couple hundred of these games that are left in the world and probably wouldn't sell well enough to cover the setup costs to design it and have it made, etc. I think the one on this machine was cracked too, might have to just live with it!
Joe, I'm heading out this morning to look at the Jungle King I mentioned before.... the man said he plugged it in and everything seemed to light up as it should... but the ball would not load. Any ideas on what I would have to look at to push the ball to the plunger? Also, he seemed to have lost the key... I'm sure you faced a lost key in all your experience. Sorry to post here, didn't know if you had a forum/blog.
The whole thing is anything will light up if you plug it into the wall, but if anything on it doesn't work right it won't kick the ball out. So it could be any number of things, but if you clean all the relays it should work. If you don't mind cleaning switches and working on it a little bit it won't be any big deal.
If he doesn't have the key it might just not have any credits on it to start, but it's probably got dirty switches in it somewhere that is preventing it from starting.
When you started this machine the score motor at first started that go around and around etc.. I have the same machine with a Reel that keeps going around etc. Isn't this a score reset issue. On yours I think out tried to do the same thing
Basically it's trying to reset everything, but something isn't resetting all the way or it can't tell that it's reset all the way. So the bonus unit (if there is one, I can't remember), the ball count unit, and the score reels usually.
Hitting a piece of metal can also *magnetize* it, but relatively weakly, because the magnetic domains align with the Earth's magnetic field (which is pretty weak). I get the impression that you're talking about undoing a far stronger magnetization than that.
@@LyonsArcade Oh, it probably does work. The whole point is that bashing the metal somehow frees up the magnetic domains to realign themselves (I am actually not sure how). If the metal is in an external magnetic field at that point (like the Earth's) it can impose a magnetization. But I think it could also remove or weaken an existing magnetization. Sometimes you encounter steel knives in restaurants that are weakly magnetized, and I think it usually happens just because somebody dropped them on the floor.
If the metal is magnetized, you could also heat it red hot with a blowtorch. Metals have a "curie temperature" which, when reached, will cause it to lose its magnetic field.
Joe, so my Full House machine has a slight indentation over the two rollovers... should I use Mylar tape. Also, my dealer hand changes at the ball drain not when it passes through the top three lanes. Can this be corrected... when my ball passes through the top three lanes, the dealer's hand goes dark. Also, the right flipper is sticking in the "Flipped" position. What could be the issue here?
I don't like putting mylar on them I just wax the heck out of them :) I believe that's how it's supposed to work, isn't it? They hide the dealers hand from you until the ball drains. When you go through the top three lanes it moves the reels.... If the flipper is sticking, turn the machine off and see if that makes it drop. If it stays up something is mechanically sticking and needs cleaned, if it falls with no power then it's electrically sticking and is probably a stuck flipper button switch.
@@LyonsArcade Wow... great tip, the flipper was mechanically sticking... I was able to fix it, for now, I'll see how long it lasts. My first repair... I was able to actually warp the string around an additional revolution and re-hook it at the original point. I agree with the Mylar... but the two small rollovers just above the flippers are below the surface... and the ball changes course when rolling over these two. Thanks for your time... I've been infected by the silver ball bug... I now have 6 EM's... Jungle King, Wild Card, High Hand, Domino, Wing Ding, and Full House. All working except Jungle King... so I'm looking forward to getting into it...slowely!
Joe's Classic Video Games thanks for the great info. Lost of manuals and drawings. I’ll try to remember to shoot you a line when I get my games out of storage and into the restoration process. They were both working last time I played them.
I just guess I overlooked about this pinball machine; thinking that it had a strong reference to the ABC comedy series called "Full House," knowingly they have the same title.
We own a Full House machine but it currently has the same mechanical problem as the one in the video. The ball falls into the apron and the score motor would constantly turn. We cleaned all switches in the score motor and particularly in the outhole relay. We believe that the switches of the outhole relay maybe out of line. What is a good guide for positioning as it is not in the schematics?
You just want them to be open in one direction, and then close when the relay pulls in, or closed in one direction, and open when the relay pulls in. As long as each switch changes state when the relay pulls in it's correctly adjusted.... so if you have a switch that's open, and when the relay pulls in, it's still open, that one is wrong. Or if it's closed, and when the relay pulls in it's still closed, that one is wrong.
I wonder if the old slot machines work on this principle? I have repaired the old slots which are relay controlled and could not see a way to adjust the odds.
Nothing wrong with a few bumps and shakes but with it set that low , I d say it's not using skill . But each to their own judgement . It would be fun to see what happens in a compatition with a tighter set machine to see would would do better.
The Who's classic 'Pinball Wizard' song should be reserved for either the 'Tommy' or 'Captain Fantastic' machines (in my opinion). Maybe you were being sarcastic, I guess. 1 chime (bell) seems like a gyp, c'mon, how much could they cost? Possible it originally had more, never seen this one before
@@LyonsArcade Nice song! Is it implied that they arranged a game to swindle the townsfolk, or did the dad have second thoughts about fleecing his flesh 'n' blood?
I think the worst machine I have worked on was a Gottleb Big Brave That's the first time I had to replace a drop targets. It had been sitting up in a tractor shed for a long time. A friend of mine had bought it and got back to his place. I had a Bally Amigo that I traded him for it later .
going to watch this again tonight..!! i have a 1969 MISS O ...i got a question about flippers...for my MISS O .. caN YOU HELP?? IT IS THE SAME TIme period as this one. (or close to it)..
Just think about this. All of the logic to this game is done with point to point wiring. Game difficulty adjusted by potentiometers. Add a few light bulbs, some electromecanical devices, some painted art, and you have a very cool pinball machine. No PCBs, no computer programming, and the official KERR-CHUNK sounds of yore. Man we have lost so much with modern tech.
JOE's CLASSIC, 1.) Why are you trying to "demagnetize" the solenoids plunger? because I would think you would want the plunger to be magnetized so it can be able to be pushed and pulled in by the coils magnetic field. 2.) What are these Dealer Units, Match Units, are they a special type of mechanical switch because the schematic shows the dealer units and match units as a square block with multiple taps I'm not sure what it is? 3.) The Flippers Solenoid is sparking on the switches because there is no Added Diode or Capacitor I have seen on some pinball games? 4.) The Flippers Coil is stacked so you can hold down the flipper and it won't burn out the flippers coil. I'm not sure if I understand this because when you hold down the flipper it still going through the coil#1 so I don't understand why it doesn't "burn out" the coil#1 when coil#2 is turned off by the end of stroke switch? Because I would think it would burn out the coil#1 in the flippers coil since its being held on.
1. the plunger if it's magnetized, won't ever leave the inside of the coil so the flipper will always be pulled in. You want it to just temporarily pull in. 2. The dealer units are just exactly the same as the score reels with different pictures on them. 3. Yes you're correct, if you added a capacitor to it it likely wouldn't spark anymore, this was made before they started adding those to the games. 4. Coil #1 that stays energized is much weaker, so because of that you can hold it on indefinitely without burning it up. Coil #2 is much stronger, so if you hold it on it's almost a direct short and will blow the fuse.... so coil #1 is only strong enough to hold the flipper up, but not strong enough to flip the flipper strongly with the ball on it.
@@LyonsArcade thanks for the help 1.) When the solenoid is turned on its Magnetizing the solenoids plunger gets pulled in. I thought the solenoid is being magnetized. But it should only be magnetized temporarily and goes back to "not being magnetized" when the solenoid is turned off? 2.) Coil#1 is much weaker but its still stays energized which is a direct short but at a lower current because the coil#1 windings are less but I'm surprised its doesn't burn it out. I'm guessing its a different type of wire used or some of type of coil to not burn out. Because coil#2 is stronger which means more windings which means a higher current so it will burn out the coil#2. Coil#1 is weaker less windings so i would think it would get burned out also because less current going through less coil winding is "the same pound for pound" as higher current going through stronger coil.
1. When the coil is energized it creates a magnetic field it's basically an electromagnet, the actual plunger inside though shouldn't be magnetized, it's just steel. 2. It has something to do with the resistance, when you check coil #1 the resistance is like 20ohms but when you check coil #2 the resistance is only 2 ohms or so.
JOES CLASSIC VIDEO GAMES< what type of lube or grease are you using on the metal parts for EM pinball games? I'm guessing synthetic lube and grease doesn't cause future problems of the pinball games metal parts from jamming up or getting stuck from the gummy lube grease through aging? Since the grease lube is synthetic the lube and grease through time doesn't harder causing the metal parts to get jammed up and stuck? Do you use a ultra sonic cleaner using simple green to clean the pinball games metal parts when taking them apart to clean the springs and metal assembly parts?
I use Synthetic Dielectric grease, I only use it on moving contacts though, so stuff like the stepper units. I don't use any kind of lubricant on the plungers or switches, basically you only need it wherever metal touches metal, if it has a nylon sleeve or bushing like a coil does it doesn't need lubricant. I don't use an ultra sonic cleaner but that is a very good way to clean things up!
@@LyonsArcade thanks for the help I'm guessing "synthetic dielectric grease" won't get hard and gummy in the future that causes the stepper units to freeze up because of the grease lube getting hard and gummy through time?
So you have two coils on the flipper, one coil gives you a strong "bat" effect and the second coil is for "holding" the ball at a reduced power so the main coil is de energized and not stressed, as this is AC, have people not used an RC network to act as a "snubber" which will prevent an arc from forming and reduce contact wear ? this is a system often found in "relay" circuits that operate very quickly ( as you want this too) again to prevent excessive contact pitting.
Shortly after I posted my comment I took a small break to go outside for.a quick cig . I was out there for about 2 minutes when I heard a blood curdling wail I immediately knew what it was and quick went back inside. That was around 12 midnight. I live in Washington State and this place is home to a certain type of wildlife.For any non believers out there, trust me it exists. I apologize for the non pinball comment, but I thought I would share this
You're correct that there are 2 windings on the flipper solenoid, but your explanation of operation is wrong. There is a low resistance power winding and a high resistance hold winding. The hold winding is initially bypassed by the closed EOS and when the flipper button is pressed, all current runs through the low resistance power winding giving the flipper a strong kick. At the limit of flipper travel, the EOS switch opens (and the other MB switch closes) and now current runs through BOTH windings. This limits the current through the power winding so it doesn't burn up while holding in the flipper button. Other vendors simply used the EOS switch to shunt the hold winding during the power stroke and opening it at the EOS to connect the hold winding, eliminating the need for a MB switch.
@@LyonsArcade No worries! Your troubleshooting and repair achieved the desired result, right? Just glad that others are dedicated to keeping these games alive. Once us old timers are gone, these games will be relegated to landfills. Sad really...
Check out this great Pinball Art Book: amzn.to/2S3fLZl
ANYTHING! you buy on Amazon after clicking that link doesn't raise your prices but gives us a referral tip, thank you!
I like how the stain came out on the Full House you showed from a few years ago. It fit the theme really nicely and made it look like the machine came out of a saloon.
Yes I thought it looked very nice on that theme, probably an improvement on the original paint!
Agreed
@@LyonsArcade Is that video still available?
@@randallkipker9990I'm taking a guess for that machine was not videoed. The stripped back cabinet looks good for the theme.
A buddy of mine back in Tennessee is a collector and restorer. That's where I picked up Blue Chip and Capt Card . 2 of the rarest machines I have ever owned. I've been working on E.M pinball machines for 35 years now and really enjoy doing it .
Just have to say, the electrical mechanics of these early or any pinball machine is amazing. For you to be able to diagnose problems and get them working again is a work of art. Love your videos man. These were/are the games of my childhood. Keep them coming.
Thanks Joey, we're glad you enjoy them, we'll see you on the next one! We're working on a "Triple Action" right now, same type of stuff...
dang that old pinball game looks beatiful thanks for sharing
The electromechanical stuff from back then is so crazy. Jukeboxes are nuts as well
They sure are! Thank you for watching!
@@LyonsArcade thanks for the content! Wish y’all were closer Oregon’s a long way from SC
I like the artwork on the pinball machines they are beautiful works of art.
They sure are!
I owned a Williams Teachers Pet yrs ago that had this cabinet design. It was called an odd new cabinet design and only lasted for a few models . So far the best card themed pinball that I've played so far and once owned was a 1974 Gottlieb Capt Card . There were only 750 produced. I kept it for a couple of years and eventually sold it to Herb Silvers. I paid 450 for it ,and sold it for I think around 800. The machine was in poor working order when I got it . After some work and TLC , it was playing like a brand new machine. I loved the art work on it which was done by Gordon Morrison.
As usual an awesome explanation of how this thing works.
Mechanical pinball machines fascinate me. I'd love to get my hands on one that needs work!
Yeah if you see one near you for a good price grab it, you'll enjoy working through it. The first time you get them to come back is always awesome :)
@@LyonsArcade Absolutely. I keep my eyes open periodically from the usual sources but things are almost always super inflated in prices. It's the area I live in. Full of Microsoft millionaires who can afford to spend more than something is worth. Good if yer selling, bad if yer buying!
Someday I will get one.
Awesome, I just obtained one of these machines... Full House! All works great and it's a tuff machine to get to 2500/3000 points or bet the dealer. Thanks for the video Joe!
Glad you enjoyed it, Randall!
I have always been impressed by how jam packed some EM's compared to the technology that pinball designers had back in the day.
Yeah look up a Williams Hot Line that thing was amazing. It spells words and things.
Very cool pinball machine.
Nice old design, a lot of these EM's had little gimmicks like that, that made them very fun.
Awesome stuff I love the whole electro mechanical genius of the pinball machines!
Yeah they're very interesting... they made it all work with what they had!
Our family had a Show Boat machine back in the mid-70's. You had to manually load each ball to the plunger by pushing a rod into the machine (you could actually see balls remaining through the playfield). It would lift the ball up to the plunger. It worked, but was missing some scoring lane trip wires. Score to beat? 1000 of course! Good Times...
Hi Rod! We had one called "Flipper Parade" onetime like that, it was kind of neat with the push rod. That was how some of the old Gottlieb games did it... Very fun games, I like the style of them.
when something is magnetized the atoms (for a simple explanation) are in line when you heat (or hit with a hammer) you give the metal enought energy to allow the atoms to move and go random again
Thank you Brian!
Beauty table.
Thanks for sharing. Similar to my Royal Guard pinball.
Those Royal Guard's look cool!
Joe your an Awesome Teacher ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thanks Sam glad you enjoy the video!
Cool old game, like always its stacked for the dealer ,house mainly wins lol
Yup, just like in real life!
Great schematic reading. Williams is the man there good. Hopefully you set the pinball to easiest for them
If I remember correctly we did! Thanks for watching bill!
Played this machine when I was a kid at Eddie's Place in Ste. Genevieve, MO. One of the old drunks gave me and a buddy a dime each. Machine went crazy on me. Must have won 7 games free. Proprietor had never seen anything like it. Probably....1968.
I've been watching your em videos almost a week now, grasp something each video, you are by far the best teacher on em's that i have saw on you tube. 👍 keep up the great work my friend.👏👏
The secret is I don't really know that much about them, I just stumble through and talk out loud while I'm doing it :)
@@LyonsArcade If you are able to reason and analyse logically, knowledge comes 2nd place. Once the job is done it becomes experience.
Amazing how they designed the "house edge" with no computer chips.
Yeah it's pretty crazy, they were really creative back then!
A unique and different concept for a game. I agree the original backglass looks outstanding.
The old EM GAMES are pretty neat , and a lot more fun to play then you think. They can also be challenging.
wow, that looks so amazing great in wood optic!!!
Yeah I thought it looked pretty good like that!
I have one of these machines, it’s a pity the case has been painted white...
Mine has worn back glass - caused by the dealers hand lights behind the ace - the heat damaged the paint.
I gave mine a full service in 2015 and replaced the bulbs with led’s replacements - yellow white for play field and white for back glass - the machine is a lot quieter as the transformer has such a light load on it now(less buzzing) - I have a copy of schematics and this helped fixing a silly problem that someone ‘fixed’ and got it working correctly.
Very cool. It's a really fun game! I've seen some of those backglasses floating around new old stock, you might run into one for sale.
Nice old EM and Interesting also to play 🖒
It is pretty fun, even after all these years.
Thanks for the video.
That one was really interesting thanks for taking the time to post it really great
Yeah I liked this one... it had it all, fun little scoring gimmick, great artwork, cool theme.... very fun :) Thanks for watching Bob we appreciate it as always!
Your videos are very educational. We actually have one of these tables. There seems to be a major issue as the machine will not start. We have cleaned and lubricated all of the game/ball/score reels. I have the schematics and can not see what the problem could be.
@24:16 wants that game boy game Final Fantasy Legend & Thank you, Joe's Classic Video Games, much appreciated 1966 Williams Full House Pinball Machine repair.
That was, good eye :) Thanks for watching Spider, we'll see you on the next video.
Just subscribed! I love your channel and I love arcades!
Azrial... you may be our 10 thousandth subscriber, we just hit 10,000 and it might have been you :)
14:30 that's cool hadn't looked into it's mechanics before, kind of reverse of what electric toaster does
The machines are full of cool designs like that, really fascinating stuff once you look into them.
I like Full House that was one of my favourite shows in the 1980s 😁
You got it dude!
@@LyonsArcade How rude!!!
like how the modern 1990's fun house's rudy looks like the woman on the 1966 machine, funhouse(1990) is one of my all time fav pinballs along with dr who and the 1980's ? pinball 8 ball
I've never had that Dr. Who one I'd like to get it.... we do have a Funhouse though :) I never noticed they looked the same but I can see it!
Funhouse is my favorite pinball game, hands down. Played the hell out of it in college
An episode of the 1960s TV show Mannix led me here. There’s one of these in the background.
I don't remember the game, but I really liked the T V Show that spawned from it...
The dealer has the cards stacked in his favor!
Yup! They Cheat!
House always wins!
We used to call them the pull in and hold in coil or trash when the end of stroke switch failed and let the smoke out !
Did you have a lot of coils fry because of that EOS switch?
Not that many, the main fail was burned pull in coil contacts giving weak flipper action as it only using the hold in coil.
TIL the operators can set the matching to liberal or conservative. Also learned that some games determine outcome by which digit is in which place in the score.
Thanks for watching Matthew!
Joe, what's a Shooter Tip? To change the light bulbs... I need one of those...LOL! I also need the plastic that covers the center wheel as mine is broken on top left corner. Finally, could the flippers be replaced with a 1/2" longer flipper or maybe installing a center pin bumper between flippers... just a thought... not sure because it changes it from original
There is a little rubber bumper on the tip of the shooter rod, with a hole in it to slide over the shooter rod, it's the perfect size to slide over the bulbs too to put them in the holes. You could probably replace the flippers but I've never messed with that, I just play them the way they were made, they're supposed to be that length. That center plastic piece you're probably not going to be able to find, I don't believe anybody's made a replacement because it only fits the couple hundred of these games that are left in the world and probably wouldn't sell well enough to cover the setup costs to design it and have it made, etc. I think the one on this machine was cracked too, might have to just live with it!
Very nice machine E&M, 1960 ! OMY ! ARCADEOLOGY
Yes sir :) New video tomorrow of an old Pinball Machine, see you then :)
Joe, I'm heading out this morning to look at the Jungle King I mentioned before.... the man said he plugged it in and everything seemed to light up as it should... but the ball would not load. Any ideas on what I would have to look at to push the ball to the plunger? Also, he seemed to have lost the key... I'm sure you faced a lost key in all your experience. Sorry to post here, didn't know if you had a forum/blog.
The whole thing is anything will light up if you plug it into the wall, but if anything on it doesn't work right it won't kick the ball out. So it could be any number of things, but if you clean all the relays it should work. If you don't mind cleaning switches and working on it a little bit it won't be any big deal.
If he doesn't have the key it might just not have any credits on it to start, but it's probably got dirty switches in it somewhere that is preventing it from starting.
@@LyonsArcade Awesome... thanks, Joe....!
This is the pinball machine that is in the Home Alone basement.
That's cool I didn't realize that!
A good friend of mine has this machine. It is a fun game(he doesn't like it). Too bad the back glass is totally trashed.
Craig he probably won't want to but if somebody ends up with it, I've actually seen those glasses NOS floating around on ebay.
If you ever find one let me know.......Fun game,
One of my favorite things to play at arcades. By the way its David this is my alt.
David I agree they're really fun!
When you started this machine the score motor at first started that go around and around etc.. I have the same machine with a Reel that keeps going around etc. Isn't this a score reset issue. On yours I think out tried to do the same thing
Basically it's trying to reset everything, but something isn't resetting all the way or it can't tell that it's reset all the way. So the bonus unit (if there is one, I can't remember), the ball count unit, and the score reels usually.
Hitting a piece of metal can also *magnetize* it, but relatively weakly, because the magnetic domains align with the Earth's magnetic field (which is pretty weak). I get the impression that you're talking about undoing a far stronger magnetization than that.
It may not work, I'm not sure, it's just something an old operator told me a long time ago.
@@LyonsArcade Oh, it probably does work. The whole point is that bashing the metal somehow frees up the magnetic domains to realign themselves (I am actually not sure how). If the metal is in an external magnetic field at that point (like the Earth's) it can impose a magnetization. But I think it could also remove or weaken an existing magnetization.
Sometimes you encounter steel knives in restaurants that are weakly magnetized, and I think it usually happens just because somebody dropped them on the floor.
That makes sense, glad to hear some confirmation it may have done something :)
If the metal is magnetized, you could also heat it red hot with a blowtorch. Metals have a "curie temperature" which, when reached, will cause it to lose its magnetic field.
I've never heard of that Josu but it makes perfect sense, thanks!
Can you not just use a screwdriver magnetizer/demagnetizer?
@@jasonbrindamour903 Yes, but I don't have one.
Joe, so my Full House machine has a slight indentation over the two rollovers... should I use Mylar tape. Also, my dealer hand changes at the ball drain not when it passes through the top three lanes. Can this be corrected... when my ball passes through the top three lanes, the dealer's hand goes dark. Also, the right flipper is sticking in the "Flipped" position. What could be the issue here?
I don't like putting mylar on them I just wax the heck out of them :) I believe that's how it's supposed to work, isn't it? They hide the dealers hand from you until the ball drains. When you go through the top three lanes it moves the reels.... If the flipper is sticking, turn the machine off and see if that makes it drop. If it stays up something is mechanically sticking and needs cleaned, if it falls with no power then it's electrically sticking and is probably a stuck flipper button switch.
@@LyonsArcade Wow... great tip, the flipper was mechanically sticking... I was able to fix it, for now, I'll see how long it lasts. My first repair... I was able to actually warp the string around an additional revolution and re-hook it at the original point. I agree with the Mylar... but the two small rollovers just above the flippers are below the surface... and the ball changes course when rolling over these two.
Thanks for your time... I've been infected by the silver ball bug... I now have 6 EM's... Jungle King, Wild Card, High Hand, Domino, Wing Ding, and Full House. All working except Jungle King... so I'm looking forward to getting into it...slowely!
Where can we find those nice schematics for retro arcade games. I have Tetris and Road Riot.
I'm gonna hook you up brother, check this out : arcarc.xmission.com/
Joe's Classic Video Games thanks for the great info. Lost of manuals and drawings. I’ll try to remember to shoot you a line when I get my games out of storage and into the restoration process. They were both working last time I played them.
I just guess I overlooked about this pinball machine; thinking that it had a strong reference to the ABC comedy series called "Full House," knowingly they have the same title.
Determined to find out how the house stacked lol
Yup, we got to the bottom of it!
We own a Full House machine but it currently has the same mechanical problem as the one in the video. The ball falls into the apron and the score motor would constantly turn. We cleaned all switches in the score motor and particularly in the outhole relay. We believe that the switches of the outhole relay maybe out of line. What is a good guide for positioning as it is not in the schematics?
You just want them to be open in one direction, and then close when the relay pulls in, or closed in one direction, and open when the relay pulls in. As long as each switch changes state when the relay pulls in it's correctly adjusted.... so if you have a switch that's open, and when the relay pulls in, it's still open, that one is wrong. Or if it's closed, and when the relay pulls in it's still closed, that one is wrong.
The house always wins.
Yup, one way or another. Wasn't it nice of them to make the machine exactly like real life????
Even if you win a free game, the house ultimately wins.
I wonder if the old slot machines work on this principle? I have repaired the old slots which are relay controlled and could not see a way to adjust the odds.
I've never worked on those but I would imagine there was some way to adjust it...
Looks like he set the tilt plumb Bob to prevent it from triggering , he must like playing aggressively , ie lots of english .
I don't personally but most of the customers do :)
Nothing wrong with a few bumps and shakes but with it set that low , I d say it's not using skill . But each to their own judgement . It would be fun to see what happens in a compatition with a tighter set machine to see would would do better.
So when playing this game what song should be on.
The who Pinball wizard
Or
Kenny Rogers The Gambler.
here's the soundtrack, pass it around :ruclips.net/video/CoH5xKC3xoE/видео.html
The Who's classic 'Pinball Wizard' song should be reserved for either the 'Tommy' or 'Captain Fantastic' machines (in my opinion). Maybe you were being sarcastic, I guess. 1 chime (bell) seems like a gyp, c'mon, how much could they cost? Possible it originally had more, never seen this one before
As a newbie, thanks! Learned a lot as always! A blue cowboy hat, though, c'mon 😆
@@LyonsArcade Nice song! Is it implied that they arranged a game to swindle the townsfolk, or did the dad have second thoughts about fleecing his flesh 'n' blood?
It could go either way, but I believe the dad let him win :)
👍👍
Thanks Victory Metal Detecting!
I think the worst machine I have worked on was a Gottleb Big Brave
That's the first time I had to replace a drop targets. It had been sitting up in a tractor shed for a long time. A friend of mine had bought it and got back to his place. I had a Bally Amigo that I traded him for it later .
going to watch this again tonight..!! i have a 1969 MISS O ...i got a question about flippers...for my MISS O .. caN YOU HELP?? IT IS THE SAME TIme period as this one. (or close to it)..
Yes I can make a new comment though I never see the replies (there's too many of them!)
Just think about this. All of the logic to this game is done with point to point wiring. Game difficulty adjusted by potentiometers. Add a few light bulbs, some electromecanical devices, some painted art, and you have a very cool pinball machine. No PCBs, no computer programming, and the official KERR-CHUNK sounds of yore. Man we have lost so much with modern tech.
Ain't that the truth :)
JOE's CLASSIC,
1.) Why are you trying to "demagnetize" the solenoids plunger? because I would think you would want the plunger to be magnetized so it can be able to be pushed and pulled in by the coils magnetic field.
2.) What are these Dealer Units, Match Units, are they a special type of mechanical switch because the schematic shows the dealer units and match units as a square block with multiple taps I'm not sure what it is?
3.) The Flippers Solenoid is sparking on the switches because there is no Added Diode or Capacitor I have seen on some pinball games?
4.) The Flippers Coil is stacked so you can hold down the flipper and it won't burn out the flippers coil. I'm not sure if I understand this because when you hold down the flipper it still going through the coil#1 so I don't understand why it doesn't "burn out" the coil#1 when coil#2 is turned off by the end of stroke switch? Because I would think it would burn out the coil#1 in the flippers coil since its being held on.
He don't or doesn't want to change the system from how it was originally made.
1. the plunger if it's magnetized, won't ever leave the inside of the coil so the flipper will always be pulled in. You want it to just temporarily pull in.
2. The dealer units are just exactly the same as the score reels with different pictures on them.
3. Yes you're correct, if you added a capacitor to it it likely wouldn't spark anymore, this was made before they started adding those to the games.
4. Coil #1 that stays energized is much weaker, so because of that you can hold it on indefinitely without burning it up. Coil #2 is much stronger, so if you hold it on it's almost a direct short and will blow the fuse.... so coil #1 is only strong enough to hold the flipper up, but not strong enough to flip the flipper strongly with the ball on it.
@@LyonsArcade thanks for the help
1.) When the solenoid is turned on its Magnetizing the solenoids plunger gets pulled in. I thought the solenoid is being magnetized. But it should only be magnetized temporarily and goes back to "not being magnetized" when the solenoid is turned off?
2.) Coil#1 is much weaker but its still stays energized which is a direct short but at a lower current because the coil#1 windings are less but I'm surprised its doesn't burn it out. I'm guessing its a different type of wire used or some of type of coil to not burn out. Because coil#2 is stronger which means more windings which means a higher current so it will burn out the coil#2. Coil#1 is weaker less windings so i would think it would get burned out also because less current going through less coil winding is "the same pound for pound" as higher current going through stronger coil.
1. When the coil is energized it creates a magnetic field it's basically an electromagnet, the actual plunger inside though shouldn't be magnetized, it's just steel.
2. It has something to do with the resistance, when you check coil #1 the resistance is like 20ohms but when you check coil #2 the resistance is only 2 ohms or so.
A coil only burns out based on the load that on it. Same a transformer the more load the hotter it gets. So having less turns don't make it get hot
card term put a rabbit out of the hat= win a round unexpectedly
That makes sense, thank you Brian!
JOES CLASSIC VIDEO GAMES< what type of lube or grease are you using on the metal parts for EM pinball games? I'm guessing synthetic lube and grease doesn't cause future problems of the pinball games metal parts from jamming up or getting stuck from the gummy lube grease through aging? Since the grease lube is synthetic the lube and grease through time doesn't harder causing the metal parts to get jammed up and stuck?
Do you use a ultra sonic cleaner using simple green to clean the pinball games metal parts when taking them apart to clean the springs and metal assembly parts?
I use Synthetic Dielectric grease, I only use it on moving contacts though, so stuff like the stepper units. I don't use any kind of lubricant on the plungers or switches, basically you only need it wherever metal touches metal, if it has a nylon sleeve or bushing like a coil does it doesn't need lubricant.
I don't use an ultra sonic cleaner but that is a very good way to clean things up!
@@LyonsArcade thanks for the help
I'm guessing "synthetic dielectric grease" won't get hard and gummy in the future that causes the stepper units to freeze up because of the grease lube getting hard and gummy through time?
So you have two coils on the flipper, one coil gives you a strong "bat" effect and the second coil is for "holding" the ball at a reduced power so the main coil is de energized and not stressed, as this is AC, have people not used an RC network to act as a "snubber" which will prevent an arc from forming and reduce contact wear ? this is a system often found in "relay" circuits that operate very quickly ( as you want this too) again to prevent excessive contact pitting.
Later on some of the DC flipper systems they added a capacitor, yes.
Shortly after I posted my comment I took a small break to go outside for.a quick cig . I was out there for about 2 minutes when I heard a blood curdling wail
I immediately knew what it was and quick went back inside. That was around 12 midnight. I live in Washington State and this place is home to a certain type of wildlife.For any non believers out there, trust me it exists. I apologize for the non pinball comment, but I thought I would share this
I'd sell my soul for an original Flip A Card.
That's a great one!
@@LyonsArcade It sure is! Have you seen one, in playable or repairable condition, in recent years?
No, I haven't. I've never had one, actually.
You're correct that there are 2 windings on the flipper solenoid, but your explanation of operation is wrong. There is a low resistance power winding and a high resistance hold winding.
The hold winding is initially bypassed by the closed EOS and when the flipper button is pressed, all current runs through the low resistance power winding giving the flipper a strong kick. At the limit of flipper travel, the EOS switch opens (and the other MB switch closes) and now current runs through BOTH windings. This limits the current through the power winding so it doesn't burn up while holding in the flipper button.
Other vendors simply used the EOS switch to shunt the hold winding during the power stroke and opening it at the EOS to connect the hold winding, eliminating the need for a MB switch.
Somebody else already explained to me how wrong I was a year ago, sorry...
@@LyonsArcade No worries! Your troubleshooting and repair achieved the desired result, right?
Just glad that others are dedicated to keeping these games alive. Once us old timers are gone, these games will be relegated to landfills.
Sad really...
I wonder what percentage of pinball players are female?
First
What a great machine. I have never played this. Silly sally always wins ..
Yup! Very fun game, really.
First
AND Second!
@@LyonsArcade yeah