UPDATE: after one very short ride around my neighborhood the stock controller stopped working:/ I contacted CYC and they got me all set up with a new controller under warranty. I also got the new BAC 855 on the way too so there will definitely be a comparison video as soon as I get them in the mail!
That was great information about the bottom bracket threads, now I realise your bike has to be new or fairly new, because after a few years there can be corrosion and all kinds of problems in there
Enjoyed the video, and look forward to further updates, would especially appreciate some feedback on the pedal assist mode. I am planning to fit this kit to my carbon hardtail MTB.
@@shockadellick there is a fault with the air bag in those jackets, i would avoid them at all costs, they also catch the ground when you come off and make it even worse,,DONT BUY THAT PRODUCT!!!!!!!!!!
where can I get the battery set up you have, I have the same set up with a similar triangle and I need more battery I just settled a 72v 16 ah because it was the smallest package I could find and it is too big for the tringle I have to mount it on a rack on the back. till I find a better solution.
Love your attention to detail. the little heat shrink deal, great idea! I am about to purchase one. Where did you get your? Directly from them or third party site etc...
Direct from cyc which took about a month but customer service was pretty good as I had a few issues. Definitely worth dealing/buying CYC directly for warranty purposes
And recommendations for base bike to use for these more powerful motors? Added weight and force being considered. Going to guess anything carbon fiber would be risky.
great video ! Anything to look out for when getting a bicycle to put this kit on ? Looking for a dual suspension bike. Also, have you noticed anything wearing fast or breaking because of the high power ?
Same issue with bottom bracket. There are more threads on BB cup than the bottom bracket on my bike will allow. I may get a bottom bracket threading tool.
@@DaLife888 I have considered it as I do run a small 3d printer business but I need to print in batches to make it cost/time effective. If I can get an order for 20+ units I'd go for it. Another option is using a 3d print service on Etsy as most are usually hobbiest therefore prices are very reasonable for 1 off parts
Appreciate the video. I have run into the issue of the motor moving a bit. Do you have a picture of the star washer you used and size for the support bracket?
I don't recall the size but it looks like this www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-100-Count-5-8-in-Standard-SAE-External-Tooth-Lock-Washer/4315073?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-google-_-pla-_-213-_-sosbuildershardware-_-4315073-_-0&placeholder=null&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgo_5BRDuARIsADDEntSOELzTZKMaLmlldCuPqp6c0Du6SrQSjKhfVp1wTil6XpzaVASH3m8aAj2jEALw_wcB
Hi Ryan, great video, helped me a lot with my installation. Question for you. When my BB cups are fully tightened, the motor / bracket is able to swing around the BB. Is this the same for you? Is this why you installed the 3D printed spacers? Mine moves, and I put some room in there but when I throttle up, the torque moves it and clanks against the frame tube. I’ve gotta a just I think. But anyway, would love to know if yours rotates around the BB.
Hi David, the motor mounting plates actually fit around my bottom bracket housing on one side so the whole motor can rotate if I push it by hand but I would not say it is loose. It will hold the motor up by itself without rotating however it would definitely move if I were to give it throttle. I think you need to tighten your bottom bracket cups a little more.
@@RuffRoadDesigns Thank you so much for it sir. I'm trying to learn sketchup to make model myself but it's so hard. Your model definitely save me a lot of time. I'll keep learning.
@@RuffRoadDesigns Hi sir, Just want to let you know I finally got a chance to printed your model, I got to say I'm pretty lucky, it fits my bike perfectly. Now I'm just waiting to install the motor. thank you so much for it. If you ever have a chance please show me how you made the model. I really love to learn. I'm watching other youtube video but they are more 3d modeling not focus on create 3d model that the 3d printer can print. Thank you again
It's called grease use it when installing any parts on a MTB. Less binding up of parts plus as a bonus 6 years and 5000 boggy rides later you will be able to get them apart hopefully. A very few parts don't require grease. As a old man from way back when suspension was something we dreamed about and square taper bb's were all the rage. U learnt not to grease the taper of your BB. My first XTR cranks were taper . Still going on there fifth bike frame!
Hi, sorry I'm new to this, I normally see people grease the thread of the bottom bracket or use the blue locktile. However, didn't see anyone doing these motor doing that. You also say we shouldn't grease the BB as well. May I ask why is there a contradiction? Thank you so much for all of your help. And thank you to the uploader too. If you can help me answer this that would be awesome
@@bohaman. Only the square taper of the axle should not be greased. First reason is that square taper crank arms can and will come loose Second if U use grease when you tighten the crank onto the taper it would enable the crank arm to slide just that little bit further onto the taper before binding up tight but this is not good as you get a finite amount of times you can remove and reinstall a crank arm onto a square taper axle. Everytime you tighten it up it goes on just a little bit further With no grease on the axle taper the crank arm will bind up sooner Hope that made sense
@@nobrakes7247 Thank you for taking your time and explain to me. To recap what you say. 1) When you say no grease, you mean it is between the square taper and the square hole from the crank arm part correct? 2) the reason no grease is better because it prevents slipping and I can remove/install it many times correct? 3) the reason grease is better because it prevents binding. However, the reason for bullet 2 out weight the benefit on bullet 3 correct? Thank you
@@bohaman. Correct But just to confuse U a little more. Grease does help reduce binding but the main reason for it is to prevent oxidation of metal thus you apply grease to parts being put together so they come apart again even after they have been abused and used in the mud and grime
Hi Ryan, Thanks so much for this video. Did you get it working with the 855? Last I heard from you is that it is amazing with a few minor issues. Did you get them worked out with the mfr?
I got the 855 working pretty good now. PAS still doesn't work but I just got the updated BB which should be the final solution. The throttle cut off issue still happens but less often and the power resumes within 1 second due to the new update.
@@RuffRoadDesigns Thanks for your reply! Are you saying that they had to send you an updated Bottom Bracket spindle? I bought the motor from them and I'm wondering if I should request those same parts before I do my build. Do they think that your problems are due to your particular unit(s) or are they just working the bugs out of the whole system? Would you be willing to share your 855 config, or did you not need to change it much from the their config?
all you had to do was grease the bottom bracket with mobile one, in fact the bottom bracket should be soaked with grease to keep water and dirt out... pretty standard... didn't grease anything in the build. ugh. Liked the video because I wanted to see the motor up close. Cheers!
Hey Ryan nice build bro Very much enjoying your work. Mate could you do me a favour please at some point?. Could you measure from the centre of your bottom bracket/ centre of seat tube to the outside of the left crank arm And could you please do the same from the centre to the outside of a right crank arm The cyc website drawings indicate a difference of 7.6mm wider on the drive /right side. It would like you to verify this please. When I first studied there drawings there were discrepancies in the measurements I informed CYC and they fixed up the website. It would be nice to just get real world measurements. Thanks
Definitely can take some measurements. I am not exactly sure what dimensions you are interested in tho. Please send me a PM with a quick drawing or reference to the Cyc drawing dimensions. Thanks!
Not possible option deleted by utube some time ago. If you head over to the cyc website And you go to the shop And you choose Gen 2 option The specifications should come up on that page If you scroll down to the second drawing you will see measurements P and N Measured from point H Sorry I should have explained the reason for the measurements. If you were sitting on your bike feet on the pedals and you are looking down at the motor How centralised is the motor between your ankles A lot of mid drives are offset to the right several mm . This is reason for the measurements. Cheers
i have the new version of the gen 2 with the alloy chain cover and the chain tensioner is still the same as yours, oh my god what a crap idea that was, its awful, going to mod it right now, just need to bolt the wheel onto the alloy cover and get rid of the dumb spring, is putting way to much load on the chain...also on the chain ring mounting i used the holes with the thread and not the nut and bolt, works fine...
What a shame these kits are 40% more expensive than the Bafang 1000W mid drive units. I was keen on these too. I just could not justify another $630UAD over what I just paid for the complete 52V Bafang Kit out of China.
I hope the cheaper big box brand bicycles keep improving quality to the point that they put many of the larger way overpriced name brands out of business.....Example $1,500 for a rear bicycle shock, the thing better be made of titanium alloy, gold plated, easily re buildable , with long warranty.
There are so many parts I see failing in this, it kinda puts me off, don't want to have the bike at home waiting for parts longer than it stays on the road... I wish mid drives were as easy, maintenance free and reliable as hubs lol
@@gursisingh1940 sorry but you're way off the truth, i've done 26k miles on hubs and they are terrible, spokes braking, wheels bending, when a motor is on the wheel the torque kills it over time as it transfers its power where as my mid drive 10k done has literally no issues except a lil greasing, the chain set wears a lil bit faster than hub but you try fixing in spokes when they go, i'll never go hub ever, ever again.
@@what-about-mike83 you might have gotten a cheap kit, I have double wall rims and moped spokes on my hub motor and the frame drop outs should be filed precisely for it to not cause any sort of damage, I have used a hand file to file it out and used a very thin drill bit to shape the edges of the drop out to match like 90% of the shaft shape. There is a forum online somewhere that shows that a hub motor torque is no where near enough to cause damage to a mtb aluminium frame drop outs except if shaped incorrectly, if is been files incorrectly then the torque won't be distributed evenly and will cause some damage. What mid drive do you have? Theoretically there are many more parts that can fail in the mid drive compared to the hub motor
I come watch this video in my suspicion that the non-drive side won't thread because there's usually not 2cm worth of threads cut in the BB. And then this happens.
These motors are difficult to put on compared to the bafang. Its a way better design then the cyclone . Just buy a bafang bbshd then put a aftermarket controller a metal gear and toss the nylon one and I am getting 120 kph out of it and its easy to install. Bafang is much better motor.
Hey I know these videos are a lot of work but thanks for doing it. It helps people like me, even a year later
One of the best video I have seen, very informative 👍 keep up the good work
UPDATE: after one very short ride around my neighborhood the stock controller stopped working:/
I contacted CYC and they got me all set up with a new controller under warranty. I also got the new BAC 855 on the way too so there will definitely be a comparison video as soon as I get them in the mail!
hi i watched your videos i'm interested if i could write you about the X1 PRO Gen i have one question about the Torque Sensor axle width
@@shockadellick i own one for my moto. great call!
Thanks Ryan , very clear demo , gives me the confidence to get one of these , cheers 👍👍
The answer to the e-bike movement.
ruclips.net/video/ajjoiV1sTJc/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/jdH8e22x74Q/видео.html
That was great information about the bottom bracket threads, now I realise your bike has to be new or fairly new, because after a few years there can be corrosion and all kinds of problems in there
Nice video! Good to see more on the X1. Great job
great video! Can you describe what battery option you ended up choosing and how they're configured? :)
Enjoyed the video, and look forward to further updates, would especially appreciate some feedback on the pedal assist mode.
I am planning to fit this kit to my carbon hardtail MTB.
@@shockadellick there is a fault with the air bag in those jackets, i would avoid them at all costs, they also catch the ground when you come off and make it even worse,,DONT BUY THAT PRODUCT!!!!!!!!!!
where can I get the battery set up you have, I have the same set up with a similar triangle and I need more battery I just settled a 72v 16 ah because it was the smallest package I could find and it is too big for the tringle I have to mount it on a rack on the back. till I find a better solution.
Next: Test ride :D
Thanks for your input on the install!
Cheers!
tip from another cyc x1 pro owner here, use anti seize compund
Where are you using the anti seize? (car guy here, only ever used it mounting wheels with spacers.)
@@polack BB and freewheel
We’re thinking of getting one of these for an enduro, thanks and great job!
Love your attention to detail. the little heat shrink deal, great idea! I am about to purchase one. Where did you get your? Directly from them or third party site etc...
Direct from cyc which took about a month but customer service was pretty good as I had a few issues. Definitely worth dealing/buying CYC directly for warranty purposes
And recommendations for base bike to use for these more powerful motors?
Added weight and force being considered.
Going to guess anything carbon fiber would be risky.
great video ! Anything to look out for when getting a bicycle to put this kit on ? Looking for a dual suspension bike. Also, have you noticed anything wearing fast or breaking because of the high power ?
Same issue with bottom bracket. There are more threads on BB cup than the bottom bracket on my bike will allow. I may get a bottom bracket threading tool.
Good video. I noticed you didn't put any grease on the bottom bracket treads, this could have caused to gall due metal to metal friction?
I want the smolder and the battery and charger to go with it how much is it
Nice job
I like the battery boxes. Do you have the dimensions for those?
Excellent install video
Have you thought of having the 3D printed motor mount up for sale?
I have the files available for free on thingiverse
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4457758
Ryan,
I mean for those that does not have a 3D printer. You should consider having them available for sale…cuz I would swoop one up. Thanks.
@@DaLife888 I have considered it as I do run a small 3d printer business but I need to print in batches to make it cost/time effective. If I can get an order for 20+ units I'd go for it.
Another option is using a 3d print service on Etsy as most are usually hobbiest therefore prices are very reasonable for 1 off parts
I haven't seen thorough reviews on this yet... how good is the torque sensing compared to a bosch? Does the motor add much pedal resistance?
Appreciate the video. I have run into the issue of the motor moving a bit. Do you have a picture of the star washer you used and size for the support bracket?
I don't recall the size but it looks like this
www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-100-Count-5-8-in-Standard-SAE-External-Tooth-Lock-Washer/4315073?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-google-_-pla-_-213-_-sosbuildershardware-_-4315073-_-0&placeholder=null&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgo_5BRDuARIsADDEntSOELzTZKMaLmlldCuPqp6c0Du6SrQSjKhfVp1wTil6XpzaVASH3m8aAj2jEALw_wcB
Hi Ryan, great video, helped me a lot with my installation. Question for you. When my BB cups are fully tightened, the motor / bracket is able to swing around the BB. Is this the same for you? Is this why you installed the 3D printed spacers? Mine moves, and I put some room in there but when I throttle up, the torque moves it and clanks against the frame tube. I’ve gotta a just I think. But anyway, would love to know if yours rotates around the BB.
Hi David, the motor mounting plates actually fit around my bottom bracket housing on one side so the whole motor can rotate if I push it by hand but I would not say it is loose. It will hold the motor up by itself without rotating however it would definitely move if I were to give it throttle. I think you need to tighten your bottom bracket cups a little more.
gen 1 owner here. swap out the nylon strap to a metal hose clap the screw kind. but it up against the frame
I want to smolder battery and charger how much would it run please answer me
Hey Rayan, thanks for a great video, would you be able to show a link for the threaded inserts/screw size you used for the 3D mount?
Cheers
www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Threaded-Embedment-Assortment-Projects/dp/B07VFZWWXY/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=threaded+inserts&qid=1617237421&sprefix=threaded&sr=8-6
Would you please link your #d printed motor mount on Thingiverse? Thank you for your time.
Link to the motor mounts posted in the video description, enjoy!
@@RuffRoadDesigns Thank you so much for it sir. I'm trying to learn sketchup to make model myself but it's so hard. Your model definitely save me a lot of time. I'll keep learning.
@@RuffRoadDesigns Hi sir, Just want to let you know I finally got a chance to printed your model, I got to say I'm pretty lucky, it fits my bike perfectly. Now I'm just waiting to install the motor. thank you so much for it. If you ever have a chance please show me how you made the model. I really love to learn. I'm watching other youtube video but they are more 3d modeling not focus on create 3d model that the 3d printer can print.
Thank you again
I hope the Ride Video is Coming up
I have a trek fuel 5 will it work on it
Nice little kit..
But it is hard to beat the Bafang for simplicity and reliability...
It's called grease use it when installing any parts on a MTB.
Less binding up of parts plus as a bonus 6 years and 5000 boggy rides later you will be able to get them apart hopefully.
A very few parts don't require grease.
As a old man from way back when suspension was something we dreamed about and square taper bb's were all the rage. U learnt not to grease the taper of your BB.
My first XTR cranks were taper . Still going on there fifth bike frame!
Hi, sorry I'm new to this, I normally see people grease the thread of the bottom bracket or use the blue locktile. However, didn't see anyone doing these motor doing that. You also say we shouldn't grease the BB as well. May I ask why is there a contradiction? Thank you so much for all of your help. And thank you to the uploader too. If you can help me answer this that would be awesome
@@bohaman.
Only the square taper of the axle should not be greased.
First reason is that square taper crank arms can and will come loose
Second if U use grease when you tighten the crank onto the taper it would enable the crank arm to slide just that little bit further onto the taper before binding up tight but this is not good as you get a finite amount of times you can remove and reinstall a crank arm onto a square taper axle.
Everytime you tighten it up it goes on just a little bit further
With no grease on the axle taper the crank arm will bind up sooner
Hope that made sense
@@nobrakes7247 Thank you for taking your time and explain to me. To recap what you say.
1) When you say no grease, you mean it is between the square taper and the square hole from the crank arm part correct?
2) the reason no grease is better because it prevents slipping and I can remove/install it many times correct?
3) the reason grease is better because it prevents binding. However, the reason for bullet 2 out weight the benefit on bullet 3 correct?
Thank you
@@bohaman. Correct
But just to confuse U a little more.
Grease does help reduce binding but the main reason for it is to prevent oxidation of metal thus you apply grease to parts being put together so they come apart again even after they have been abused and used in the mud and grime
@@nobrakes7247 I'd use anti-seize instead of grease.
Kit Cost ?
$1200 usd shipped
what site did you get it for 900 some bucks??
What's the top speed and how much is it
How does it run?? Thanks!
That's sick!
did you get to test out top speed?
Did you pick the Turner bike for a reason or did you use it because you had it?
Picked it specifically because it was a DH bike (8" suspension travel and built stronger) and had a large front triangle for a battery
Hi Ryan, Thanks so much for this video. Did you get it working with the 855? Last I heard from you is that it is amazing with a few minor issues. Did you get them worked out with the mfr?
I got the 855 working pretty good now. PAS still doesn't work but I just got the updated BB which should be the final solution. The throttle cut off issue still happens but less often and the power resumes within 1 second due to the new update.
@@RuffRoadDesigns Thanks for your reply! Are you saying that they had to send you an updated Bottom Bracket spindle?
I bought the motor from them and I'm wondering if I should request those same parts before I do my build. Do they think that your problems are due to your particular unit(s) or are they just working the bugs out of the whole system? Would you be willing to share your 855 config, or did you not need to change it much from the their config?
Nice Ryan!!
Nice build. What bike is this?
Turner dhr
all you had to do was grease the bottom bracket with mobile one, in fact the bottom bracket should be soaked with grease to keep water and dirt out... pretty standard... didn't grease anything in the build. ugh. Liked the video because I wanted to see the motor up close. Cheers!
was the tool included to tighten the bb92?
No tools are included.
To snug down your bottom bracket just do it hand tight and then back it off between an eighth and a quarter of a turn and it should be good.
Bike Name ?
@@crazyfrog6361 turner DHR
Thanks
What site can I order this from?
Cycmotor.com
How long did it take to arrive?
4 months but 1 month delay because covid 19.
Ryan V you ordered the motor last year?
Almost, i ordered it the first week of 2020
Coool
Hey Ryan nice build bro
Very much enjoying your work.
Mate could you do me a favour please at some point?.
Could you measure from the centre of your bottom bracket/ centre of seat tube to the outside of the left crank arm
And could you please do the same from the centre to the outside of a right
crank arm
The cyc website drawings indicate a difference of 7.6mm wider on the drive /right side.
It would like you to verify this please.
When I first studied there drawings there were discrepancies in the measurements I informed CYC and they fixed up the website.
It would be nice to just get real world measurements.
Thanks
Definitely can take some measurements. I am not exactly sure what dimensions you are interested in tho. Please send me a PM with a quick drawing or reference to the Cyc drawing dimensions. Thanks!
Not possible option deleted by utube some time ago.
If you head over to the cyc website
And you go to the shop
And you choose Gen 2 option
The specifications should come up on that page
If you scroll down to the second drawing you will see measurements P and N
Measured from point H
Sorry I should have explained the reason for the measurements.
If you were sitting on your bike feet on the pedals and you are looking down at the motor
How centralised is the motor between your ankles
A lot of mid drives are offset to the right several mm .
This is reason for the measurements.
Cheers
i have the new version of the gen 2 with the alloy chain cover and the chain tensioner is still the same as yours, oh my god what a crap idea that was, its awful, going to mod it right now, just need to bolt the wheel onto the alloy cover and get rid of the dumb spring, is putting way to much load on the chain...also on the chain ring mounting i used the holes with the thread and not the nut and bolt, works fine...
Another video is showing where they bend the spring a little to there is less pressure on the chain.
What a shame these kits are 40% more expensive than the Bafang 1000W mid drive units. I was keen on these too. I just could not justify another $630UAD over what I just paid for the complete 52V Bafang Kit out of China.
Quality on some of the parts look questionable. 🤔. Do an update on the motor with a few miles on it.
I felt the same way. The motor and controller seems very well built but the mounting design isn't great.
1000 miles on mine and no issues
I hope the cheaper big box brand bicycles keep improving quality to the point that they put many of the larger way overpriced name brands out of business.....Example $1,500 for a rear bicycle shock, the thing better be made of titanium alloy, gold plated, easily re buildable , with long warranty.
🏆👈👀
There are so many parts I see failing in this, it kinda puts me off, don't want to have the bike at home waiting for parts longer than it stays on the road... I wish mid drives were as easy, maintenance free and reliable as hubs lol
1,000 miles on my kit and i havent broken anything
@@nickrinkel1423 I have done 4k miles in 7 months on my hub and brome nothing either
@@gursisingh1940 sorry but you're way off the truth, i've done 26k miles on hubs and they are terrible, spokes braking, wheels bending, when a motor is on the wheel the torque kills it over time as it transfers its power where as my mid drive 10k done has literally no issues except a lil greasing, the chain set wears a lil bit faster than hub but you try fixing in spokes when they go, i'll never go hub ever, ever again.
@@gursisingh1940 ur find in many cases mid drive like bbs02 had chain breaking and some issues of over heating but try a bbshd you won't look back.
@@what-about-mike83 you might have gotten a cheap kit, I have double wall rims and moped spokes on my hub motor and the frame drop outs should be filed precisely for it to not cause any sort of damage, I have used a hand file to file it out and used a very thin drill bit to shape the edges of the drop out to match like 90% of the shaft shape. There is a forum online somewhere that shows that a hub motor torque is no where near enough to cause damage to a mtb aluminium frame drop outs except if shaped incorrectly, if is been files incorrectly then the torque won't be distributed evenly and will cause some damage. What mid drive do you have? Theoretically there are many more parts that can fail in the mid drive compared to the hub motor
I come watch this video in my suspicion that the non-drive side won't thread because there's usually not 2cm worth of threads cut in the BB.
And then this happens.
These motors are difficult to put on compared to the bafang. Its a way better design then the cyclone . Just buy a bafang bbshd then put a aftermarket controller a metal gear and toss the nylon one and I am getting 120 kph out of it and its easy to install. Bafang is much better motor.
It's better u take it to a bike shop have them install it because if u mess up and hurt urself its ur fault
basura es basura a corto plazo muchos problemas
I wouldn't let him work on my bike u make too many mistakes 2 many
I want the motor battery in charger how much will it run please answer