It's stressful when you place so many hand sized pieces in the first half of the climb and look up and see so much hand sized crack above! I was wondering at 3:43 -- there is a smaller horizontal crack to the left of the main crack -- was there a spot to accept a smaller cam? It's hard to tell on the video, but I see the shadow as the horizontal crack widens at the left of the screen.
@mls01981 | | splitter cracks! I don't recall that little horizontal being any good - likely flared. But, it's been awhile since I've climbed this one. I'd just go locked and loaded with several 1-4's with some smaller peices for up high. It would be pretty difficult to fall out of that crack given the jams are so money.
There are fixed bolts with a set of steel rings that your route your rope through. After you rappel, you just pull one end of the rope and it comes right down! You can kinda see it here: ruclips.net/video/m1WT3h9lpZE/видео.html
Hey Matt! I wrapped a sling around that horn using a slip knot. Generally, when you climb above a slung horn, the rope tends to pull up on the sling and can allow it to come off the horn. I clipped that cam to add some weight and hopefully keep that sling in place. The trick works a lot better if you use nuts as they are heavier. Since I was at the top of the pitch, I knew I didn't need the extra gear and my follower would just pick it up on their way up. It's not something I do too often to be honest. But, the pitch was easy so I got a little creative. :)
The approach is about 40 minutes. It's mostly flat but there is a bit of scrambling to get up to the route. It's pretty splitter by JTree standards, but it's slightly lower angle most of the way. A couple of #3's would probably be as big as you need. I only placed a #4 for the anchor. I think I took doubles in the 0.75-3 range. It's a fairly long route, so bring as much gear as you feel comfortable with. Fun route!
@@sullycrashers Haha. Glad you liked the pun. I'll climb J-Tree a few times a month when it's in season. It's one of my favorite places! If you want any route or area suggestions, let me know what you're looking for and I'd be happy to send you some ideas or a short list!
@@KlaasicAdventure actually that would be great! looking for classics in the 5.6-5.9 range?? hopefully some nice splitter cracks. tryna get indian creek practice haha
@@sullycrashers I've done a few trips to the creek. Nothing quiet compares to those pure lines! However, here is a solid list of Joshua Tree crack routes. They are all pretty good and fairly splitter. ✋👌🤙 Diagnostics (5.6) Breakfast of Champions P1 (5.7) Double Cross (5.7+) White Lightning (5.7+) Double Dog Leg (5.7) Split Personality (5.9) Mental Physics (5.7) Dolphin (5.7 Wide) Dogleg (5.8+) Sail Away (5.8-) High Strung (5.9) Popes Crack (5.9) Invisibility Lessons (5.9)
Great video! I just branched into trad this year and I had a lot of fun guessing what size placement you were about to make.
Thanks for the good word! Where are you climbing predominantly?
It's stressful when you place so many hand sized pieces in the first half of the climb and look up and see so much hand sized crack above!
I was wondering at 3:43 -- there is a smaller horizontal crack to the left of the main crack -- was there a spot to accept a smaller cam? It's hard to tell on the video, but I see the shadow as the horizontal crack widens at the left of the screen.
@mls01981 | | splitter cracks! I don't recall that little horizontal being any good - likely flared. But, it's been awhile since I've climbed this one. I'd just go locked and loaded with several 1-4's with some smaller peices for up high. It would be pretty difficult to fall out of that crack given the jams are so money.
How do you get your rope back after you've rappelled?
There are fixed bolts with a set of steel rings that your route your rope through. After you rappel, you just pull one end of the rope and it comes right down! You can kinda see it here: ruclips.net/video/m1WT3h9lpZE/видео.html
Nice video! I just dropped a video rock climbing in Joshua Tree too! So much fun!
Nice! Looks like you guys climbed Trashcan Rock. Run little romp!
I'm pretty new to climbing. Why did you clip your cam to the sling just before the top of the route?
Hey Matt! I wrapped a sling around that horn using a slip knot. Generally, when you climb above a slung horn, the rope tends to pull up on the sling and can allow it to come off the horn. I clipped that cam to add some weight and hopefully keep that sling in place. The trick works a lot better if you use nuts as they are heavier. Since I was at the top of the pitch, I knew I didn't need the extra gear and my follower would just pick it up on their way up. It's not something I do too often to be honest. But, the pitch was easy so I got a little creative. :)
@@KlaasicAdventure That makes sense. I'd considered that it could be for weight, but I wasn't sure. Thanks for taking the time to reply!
@@mattdryden2616 You got it! 🤙
Nice climb. Did some of the rock sound hollow to you when placing?
Hey Greg! I thought it was pretty solid rock the whole way. 🤙
@@KlaasicAdventure thanks. Safe climbing!
Looks pretty splitter for the grade. Looks like larger cams? How many BD 3's and 4's did you place? How long was the approach?
The approach is about 40 minutes. It's mostly flat but there is a bit of scrambling to get up to the route. It's pretty splitter by JTree standards, but it's slightly lower angle most of the way. A couple of #3's would probably be as big as you need. I only placed a #4 for the anchor. I think I took doubles in the 0.75-3 range. It's a fairly long route, so bring as much gear as you feel comfortable with. Fun route!
Now try leading with only passive gear....
Well, that's just NUTS!
@@KlaasicAdventure haha loved that so much. how often do you climb at j tree? tryna hit some of the classics when it cools down
@@sullycrashers Haha. Glad you liked the pun. I'll climb J-Tree a few times a month when it's in season. It's one of my favorite places! If you want any route or area suggestions, let me know what you're looking for and I'd be happy to send you some ideas or a short list!
@@KlaasicAdventure actually that would be great! looking for classics in the 5.6-5.9 range?? hopefully some nice splitter cracks. tryna get indian creek practice haha
@@sullycrashers I've done a few trips to the creek. Nothing quiet compares to those pure lines! However, here is a solid list of Joshua Tree crack routes. They are all pretty good and fairly splitter. ✋👌🤙
Diagnostics (5.6)
Breakfast of Champions P1 (5.7)
Double Cross (5.7+)
White Lightning (5.7+)
Double Dog Leg (5.7)
Split Personality (5.9)
Mental Physics (5.7)
Dolphin (5.7 Wide)
Dogleg (5.8+)
Sail Away (5.8-)
High Strung (5.9)
Popes Crack (5.9)
Invisibility Lessons (5.9)
Ù Maðe it hàrder than it is....
That's weak.
They're probably just learning to lead cracks and place gear.
Everyone starts somewhere, cut'em some slack.