I missed a video that I should have included a link to. It was actually video #251 where I discussed how to use a wireless wifi router to connect wifi throttles to the layout.
Just a big thank you for showing your big green Southern engine. I grew up in the 50's and 60's in Chattanooga, TN. I had forgotten about Southern. I think the Southern station was home to the General until they stole it from us. It was a time of two large train stations in downtown Chattanooga. Thanks for the memories. Eric
An interesting video. I liked seeing how you set up the Wi-Fi, but I doubt I will get that involved with my 4 x 6 layout. It was helpful to see how you used Decoder Pro with an interface. I don't have an interface, but I plan to get one soon to use with my NCE Power Cab.
Ahoj super pěkně všechno vysvětleno ukázáno jako vždy posílám mnoho pozdravu z České republiky přeji hodně zdraví v tom novém roce splní každé přání S pozdravem Petr❤🎉
Hello Larry, first thank you for your time and sharing your expertise. You have lowered the otherwise steep learning curve of DCC. I too am having difficulty with JMRI and NCE Power Cab on my n scale layout. I wanted greater precision with speed matching. It’s a long story but here is the reader’s digest version. I was trying to adjust two Atlas SD60’s with Esu Loksound micro select decoders. Using the Basic speed pane just didn’t provide the precise control they needed. One would run a fast forty mph the other a slower forty mph. By that I mean although the Accutrak speedometer would show both at forty, the second loco would catch up eventually. Anyway I went into the speed table pane and made adjustments. The loco would accelerate ten notches then slow slightly then accelerate a little more then decelerate again. It was almost like it was climbing a flight of stairs coming to a landing before climbing again. I paced a Kato Sd70Ace with a TCS K1D4 in it. It would increase speed smoothly until step twenty eight. At step twenty nine it goes into full afterburner. If I go back and adjust cv’s 2,6,and 5 using the Power Cab the loco’s behave. Your thoughts and anyone else’s too Jim
Sometimes trying for greater precision in speed matching can create more problems than it is worth which is why I preach using just the 3 speed step approach. Even with otherwise identical locos there can be subtle differences in gears and motor performance that seem to defy logic. Also as George at Soundtraxx keep s telling me too many modelers overthink speed matching and go overboard trying to get a perfect match. You didn’t mention whether this all occurred with a string if cars attached or with just the two locos. I with a sting if cars then simple bunching and unbunching can lead to this type behavior. However it sounds as though suing the simple 3 step speed curve adjustments works for you.
Larry My NCE USB works on windows 10 and windows 11 without any change. I use JMRI and I just had to change the address in JMRI connection when I went to windows 11. went from COM3 to COM5 Also On WIThrottle in Throttle Settings you can change the displays I was having same problem with the slider bar and I moved it to the left side of the screen now that works better for me. Waiting on my TCS UWT-100 to be in stock.
Hi Larry, I like watching your videos. I had dc back in the 70’s, I started dc n gauge back up. My question is I have a reversing loop with toggle switches, I want to make it a auto reversing loop with the digitrac ar1, can I leave my toggle switches in place, and still use the ar1 for the Dcc engines? I want to switch between DC and DCC, but I’m not sure about the toggles switches and the wires that go to the track, how that will effect dcc, thanks
The problem would be with routing the DC power so it does not interact with the AR1 which I believe is a DCC only device. That would require a lot of parallel wiring and other switches to convert from DC to DCC and back each time you want to switch. It’s just not a good idea to mix DC and DCC except at the most basic level, i.e. a simple loop.
Why stop at that, why not just use an old MRC power pack and forget DCC. Or just use an old car battery and a loop of track to make your trains go? Some folks just want more technology!
@@TheDCCGuy WELL WITH A COMMENT OF A RESPONSE LIKE THAT YOU JUST GOT YOUR VIDEO BLOCKED ON MY PHONE AND LAPTOP AND I HOPE YOU LOOSE SOME SUBSCRIBERS !!!!
Great video as always! I like the idea of having a WiFi router exclusively for the model railroad. I currently use my home router and am constantly battling anti virus software and firewalls. I looked through your videos and didn’t see anything specifically about an independent WiFi router sent up. Could you please share the link or possibly do a video explaining your independent WiFi set up?
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I missed a video that I should have included a link to. It was actually video #251 where I discussed how to use a wireless wifi router to connect wifi throttles to the layout.
Just a big thank you for showing your big green Southern engine. I grew up in the 50's and 60's in Chattanooga, TN. I had forgotten about Southern. I think the Southern station was home to the General until they stole it from us. It was a time of two large train stations in downtown Chattanooga. Thanks for the memories. Eric
Glad you enjoyed it
An interesting video. I liked seeing how you set up the Wi-Fi, but I doubt I will get that involved with my 4 x 6 layout. It was helpful to see how you used Decoder Pro with an interface. I don't have an interface, but I plan to get one soon to use with my NCE Power Cab.
Great vid Larry! Cool to see you use your old D-link as a stand alone router.
Thanks for the Info Larry. BearCreek 🐾🚂
Ahoj super pěkně všechno vysvětleno ukázáno jako vždy posílám mnoho pozdravu z České republiky přeji hodně zdraví v tom novém roce splní každé přání S pozdravem Petr❤🎉
Hello Larry, first thank you for your time and sharing your expertise. You have lowered the otherwise steep learning curve of DCC.
I too am having difficulty with JMRI and NCE Power Cab on my n scale layout.
I wanted greater precision with speed matching. It’s a long story but here is the reader’s digest version. I was trying to adjust two Atlas SD60’s with Esu Loksound micro select decoders. Using the Basic speed pane just didn’t provide the precise control they needed. One would run a fast forty mph the other a slower forty mph. By that I mean although the Accutrak speedometer would show both at forty, the second loco would catch up eventually.
Anyway I went into the speed table pane and made adjustments. The loco would accelerate ten notches then slow slightly then accelerate a little more then decelerate again. It was almost like it was climbing a flight of stairs coming to a landing before climbing again. I paced a Kato Sd70Ace with a TCS K1D4 in it. It would increase speed smoothly until step twenty eight. At step twenty nine it goes into full afterburner.
If I go back and adjust cv’s 2,6,and 5 using the Power Cab the loco’s behave.
Your thoughts and anyone else’s too
Jim
Sometimes trying for greater precision in speed matching can create more problems than it is worth which is why I preach using just the 3 speed step approach. Even with otherwise identical locos there can be subtle differences in gears and motor performance that seem to defy logic. Also as George at Soundtraxx keep s telling me too many modelers overthink speed matching and go overboard trying to get a perfect match. You didn’t mention whether this all occurred with a string if cars attached or with just the two locos. I with a sting if cars then simple bunching and unbunching can lead to this type behavior. However it sounds as though suing the simple 3 step speed curve adjustments works for you.
Larry thank you for the reply. I’ll work with the basic control for now. If I find a solution I’ll share it with you.
Good tutorial. Off subject, could you make a video of a trip around your layout? It looks, the little we can see, really nice.
One of these days as soon as I get a chance to declutter and also fill in the missing sections of track.
Larry My NCE USB works on windows 10 and windows 11 without any change. I use JMRI and I just had to change the address in JMRI connection when I went to windows 11. went from COM3 to COM5 Also On
WIThrottle in Throttle Settings you can change the displays I was having same problem with the slider bar and I moved it to the left side of the screen now that works better for me. Waiting on my TCS UWT-100 to be in stock.
hello Larry & it's is Randy and i like yours cool Thanks Larry Friends Randy
Hi Larry, I like watching your videos. I had dc back in the 70’s, I started dc n gauge back up. My question is I have a reversing loop with toggle switches, I want to make it a auto reversing loop with the digitrac ar1, can I leave my toggle switches in place, and still use the ar1 for the Dcc engines? I want to switch between DC and DCC, but I’m not sure about the toggles switches and the wires that go to the track, how that will effect dcc, thanks
The problem would be with routing the DC power so it does not interact with the AR1 which I believe is a DCC only device. That would require a lot of parallel wiring and other switches to convert from DC to DCC and back each time you want to switch. It’s just not a good idea to mix DC and DCC except at the most basic level, i.e. a simple loop.
WHAT HAPPENED TO JUST RUNNING A SIMPLE DCC SYSTEM,, EVERYTHING RIGHT ON THE THROTTLE ..
PLAYING MORE ON A COMPUTER THAN RUNNING A TRAINS
Why stop at that, why not just use an old MRC power pack and forget DCC. Or just use an old car battery and a loop of track to make your trains go? Some folks just want more technology!
It’s about giving people options. Some want it others may not, I just tell them what is available.
@@TheDCCGuy WELL WITH A COMMENT OF A RESPONSE LIKE THAT YOU JUST GOT YOUR VIDEO BLOCKED ON MY PHONE AND LAPTOP AND I HOPE YOU LOOSE SOME SUBSCRIBERS !!!!
NCE reminds me of being vendor locked and at the mercy of a single vendor for their throttles etc, they should be more open.
Great video as always! I like the idea of having a WiFi router exclusively for the model railroad. I currently use my home router and am constantly battling anti virus software and firewalls. I looked through your videos and didn’t see anything specifically about an independent WiFi router sent up. Could you please share the link or possibly do a video explaining your independent WiFi set up?
I screwed up and forgot to include a link to the video where I discussed how to do this. Please watch video #251.
Have you ever covered the RailPro system?
No.
@TheDCCGuy Good Day!👍
Mine only works without the jumpers. Windows 10 netbook computer and decoder pro.
Great to hear that.