Thank you very much, Matt. I have a Rokkor-HG 35mm f/2.8 that had oily blades. It tears down exactly like this one does (I didn't have to disassemble the aperture mechanism to clean the blades) and this video helped me make this lens usable again.
+David Hancock Glad this video helped. Here's a disassembly of those specific lenses as well: MCI version: ruclips.net/video/_-7ObelXSW8/видео.html MCII version: ruclips.net/video/EJpiZzFSm_E/видео.html
Thanks! I got one of these lenses attached to an old SRT-101 and it had oily blades. I have had mixed success repairing lenses, but this one was pretty easy lens to work on.
I just picked up a Minolta SRT-101 in a thrift store the other day, and took the lens off because the shutter was jammed and I needed to fix it....When I went to put the lens back on the body, I somehow accidentally unscrewed the lens element from the aperture ring. I cannot, for the life of me, manage to screw it back on so that the aperture ring actually controls the aperture. I have watched this, and several other videos, several times and I still can't get it. I'm having trouble even getting it threaded properly so that it screws in the first place, let alone being able to manipulate the degree at which I screw it in so that the pieces align as they should. Do you have any additional tips for this? Or should I just shamefully walk into my local camera shop and have them fix it for me?
Great series on the Rokkor lenses. Thanks!! I'm looking for instructional vid to show the front element disassembly and cleaning those 2 lenses in the front element group Do you have such a video or know of one? I can't seem to find any instructions on RUclips.
I have a question about the ball bearing placed within the aperture dial element. I recently purchased this same lens to discover it does not click and set to 1.7. It will even slid or pop back from 1.7 to 2.8 but remain at other apertures with no clicks. Based on this information, could the lens be missing the ball bearing? And if so, is there a way to just go from the back of the lens to access the aperture ring and replace the ball bearing without going through the front elements?
Thank you for the instructive video. In the reassembly process, i noticed that the "fifth" blade is slightly bent. Is it a light trick or there is actually a bend blade? If so, is it on purpose and should be positioned as "fifth"?
That blade is indeed unintentionally slightly bent. But it is not as dramatic as the light makes it seem and this does not effect performance. During reassembly, I switched in this damaged blade from a cosmetically nicer lens.
For the focusing mechanism or other mechanical parts, you want a heavy lubricant that will not run in heat and also one that will not trap moisture. Never apply lubricant to the aperture or near the diaphragm for this type of lens. Heavy bearing greases work, but I typically use a very small amount of white lithium grease. The key when using any lubricant is that you really don't need a lot. Start with an extremely small dab and just work it back and forth. Usually, that's all you need. Cleaning out existing excess grease is often a good idea as well since there's often far, far too much of the stuff in there, either from the manufacturer or from repairs.
I bought some ”helical grease” from eBay but I have plans to try SKF bearing grease LGMT 2. It's for ball bearings, not as thick as the automobile greases.
MicroLubrol™ HELIMAX-XP™ Camera Lens helicoid grease. It was pretty decent, but bad plastic containers, both my lid has gotten cracks in them, very thin and fragile lids :/
Yes, you can remove the back optics very easily without taking the rest of the lens apart. They just screw into place. There are two slots on either side of the back optics for a spanning wrench
A few things that may cause this: The helicoids of focusing mechanism have debris in them or are not lubricated enough. Usually debris such as sand or small metal flakes will result in a gritty, uneven focusing feel. You can often fix this by fully separating the two parts of the helicoids and then fully cleaning both sides to remove all lubricants and built up debris. Then reapply a small amount of lubricant around the helicoids and work them back and forth. If there is simply not enough lubricant on the helicoids, the focusing will be stiff and may also be uneven. Simply separating the helicoids, or at least unscrewing them most of the way, and then applying a small amount of lubricant and working this back and forth in the focusing mechanism usually resolves that problem. The other potential cause is friction in a secondary part of the focusing mechanism. The most likely candidate here is the track and the bar that locks the inner part of the focusing mechanism in place. Removing and reattaching this bar in a better position, or applying a very small amount of lubricant, can often fix that issue. If none of those seem to be the cause, look for places in the lens where two pieces move against each other and try to isolate the problem.
I use: - A set of small JSX screw drivers: www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0219-Chromium-Screwdriver/dp/B004PGO1T6/ - A set of small Philips head screwdrivers from Whia - A set of small flat head screwdrivers from Whia
In my understanding, it's lubricants and other material collecting on the optics. Depending on where the haze is, it can be very difficult to access and clean.
Well not the simplest aperture mechanism to repair… good job Matt.
Thanks for posting this. I was able to disassemble and clean my copy of this lens with your help and it looks like new!
Thank you very much, Matt. I have a Rokkor-HG 35mm f/2.8 that had oily blades. It tears down exactly like this one does (I didn't have to disassemble the aperture mechanism to clean the blades) and this video helped me make this lens usable again.
+David Hancock Glad this video helped. Here's a disassembly of those specific lenses as well:
MCI version: ruclips.net/video/_-7ObelXSW8/видео.html
MCII version: ruclips.net/video/EJpiZzFSm_E/видео.html
Thank you! Thanks to your movie, I've managed to clean up blades of my Rokkor 55/1.7 without destroing it :D. Awesome lens!
Thanks! I got one of these lenses attached to an old SRT-101 and it had oily blades. I have had mixed success repairing lenses, but this one was pretty easy lens to work on.
Thank you so much for posting this! I just fixed the oily aperture blades of my Rokkor 55/1.7....
I just picked up a Minolta SRT-101 in a thrift store the other day, and took the lens off because the shutter was jammed and I needed to fix it....When I went to put the lens back on the body, I somehow accidentally unscrewed the lens element from the aperture ring. I cannot, for the life of me, manage to screw it back on so that the aperture ring actually controls the aperture. I have watched this, and several other videos, several times and I still can't get it. I'm having trouble even getting it threaded properly so that it screws in the first place, let alone being able to manipulate the degree at which I screw it in so that the pieces align as they should. Do you have any additional tips for this? Or should I just shamefully walk into my local camera shop and have them fix it for me?
Great series on the Rokkor lenses. Thanks!! I'm looking for instructional vid to show the front element disassembly and cleaning those 2 lenses in the front element group
Do you have such a video or know of one? I can't seem to find any instructions on RUclips.
wow awesome detailed job here. great job!
I have a question about the ball bearing placed within the aperture dial element. I recently purchased this same lens to discover it does not click and set to 1.7. It will even slid or pop back from 1.7 to 2.8 but remain at other apertures with no clicks. Based on this information, could the lens be missing the ball bearing? And if so, is there a way to just go from the back of the lens to access the aperture ring and replace the ball bearing without going through the front elements?
This video is ultra helpful and also, nice to look at-- THANK YOU.
Thank you for the instructive video.
In the reassembly process, i noticed that the "fifth" blade is slightly bent. Is it a light trick or there is actually a bend blade? If so, is it on purpose and should be positioned as "fifth"?
That blade is indeed unintentionally slightly bent. But it is not as dramatic as the light makes it seem and this does not effect performance. During reassembly, I switched in this damaged blade from a cosmetically nicer lens.
what kind of lub do you use to lub the aperture rings and how do you clean individual lens elements. Thanks. BTW great vids
For the focusing mechanism or other mechanical parts, you want a heavy lubricant that will not run in heat and also one that will not trap moisture. Never apply lubricant to the aperture or near the diaphragm for this type of lens. Heavy bearing greases work, but I typically use a very small amount of white lithium grease.
The key when using any lubricant is that you really don't need a lot. Start with an extremely small dab and just work it back and forth. Usually, that's all you need. Cleaning out existing excess grease is often a good idea as well since there's often far, far too much of the stuff in there, either from the manufacturer or from repairs.
I bought some ”helical grease” from eBay but I have plans to try SKF bearing grease LGMT 2. It's for ball bearings, not as thick as the automobile greases.
MicroLubrol™ HELIMAX-XP™ Camera Lens helicoid grease. It was pretty decent, but bad plastic containers, both my lid has gotten cracks in them, very thin and fragile lids :/
I got a canon 55 1.2 fd and the aperture ring only go up to 11. Do you repair them If I ship it to you?
Do you know what size the ball bearing is? I lost it.
Thanks for this video! It helped so much.
Amazing you! Tks for this informative video.
hi, I want to clean the back lens piece only. can I remove the back lens piece from behind?
I meant by not removing the front lens piece
Yes, you can remove the back optics very easily without taking the rest of the lens apart. They just screw into place. There are two slots on either side of the back optics for a spanning wrench
thank for the reply. Do i need spanner wrench to remove the back optic? or there is another way to remove it?
hi, what to do if the focusing ring on this lens is very stiff? nothing wrong with the focus mechanism, not so smooth as i want it to be
A few things that may cause this:
The helicoids of focusing mechanism have debris in them or are not lubricated enough. Usually debris such as sand or small metal flakes will result in a gritty, uneven focusing feel. You can often fix this by fully separating the two parts of the helicoids and then fully cleaning both sides to remove all lubricants and built up debris. Then reapply a small amount of lubricant around the helicoids and work them back and forth.
If there is simply not enough lubricant on the helicoids, the focusing will be stiff and may also be uneven. Simply separating the helicoids, or at least unscrewing them most of the way, and then applying a small amount of lubricant and working this back and forth in the focusing mechanism usually resolves that problem.
The other potential cause is friction in a secondary part of the focusing mechanism. The most likely candidate here is the track and the bar that locks the inner part of the focusing mechanism in place. Removing and reattaching this bar in a better position, or applying a very small amount of lubricant, can often fix that issue.
If none of those seem to be the cause, look for places in the lens where two pieces move against each other and try to isolate the problem.
Matt Bierner thx for the answers! btw love the videos you uploading, very inspiring! :)
What kind of kit do you use to remove the screws?
I use:
- A set of small JSX screw drivers: www.amazon.com/Moody-Tools-58-0219-Chromium-Screwdriver/dp/B004PGO1T6/
- A set of small Philips head screwdrivers from Whia
- A set of small flat head screwdrivers from Whia
awesome work
What causes haze in old lenses?
In my understanding, it's lubricants and other material collecting on the optics. Depending on where the haze is, it can be very difficult to access and clean.