This is exactly the point in my induction cooktop installation where I was stumped. Thank you for the explanation, I can now leave the white neutral wire alone and proceed. Much appreciated!
Thank you so much. You explained quick, concise and I UNDERSTOOD the principle so I can relay the info to other situations. You're a great teacher. Thank you again. God Bless
Great video. The editing and lighting is much better then some other amateur videos I watch. I’m just confused as to why I watched this video since I have a gas range now? 🤔
Can I get some advice from you about replacing electric cooktop? My outlet has black, white, and red wires, but my new cooktop has black, white and green wires. How should I match the color wires in that case? My wall outlet doesn't have ground wire at all. Thanks
Same problem. No house ground wire. So I am just putting the green wire to a screw of the box, although I don't know if the box is grounded. Or you can just leave the green wire unconnected, I guess.
A pure 240V (2 phase) appliance does not use a neutral wire. The 2 “Hot” wires (usually Red & Black) are 180 degrees out of phase so the current flows from the electrical panel through the black wire to your appliance back to the box through the red wire and then reverses red-appliance-black-panel-black….. A 120V (single phase) appliance needs a way to complete the circuit so a neutral (usually white) wire is connected back to the box. The white and the green ground wire basically do the same thing where as the white wire is the normal path and the green is the oops something is wrong path and should trip the circuit breaker before damage to people or property. A 120V/240V appliances connect all four wires and will use the 2 hot wires (240V) to run the high-voltage heating elements and one of the hots and the neutral wire (120V) to operate vent fans, oven lights, etc. There is also usually transformers in your appliance that drop the voltage down and/or switches it to DC to operate, clocks, timers and digital displays. This is all done internally in your appliance.
An electrician just came out to install a new hybrid cooktop and installed the proper wiring. I noticed that he had connected the white wire and red wire into a wire connector. I tried asking him why he did that but he got irritated.
Thank you for this video:) I have an induction cooktop to be installed that's power requirements reads up to 11000 W and 48A at 240V. Yet the manufacturer recommends 8/3 AWG with 55 Amp "protection calibre" (which I assume means breaker) or 8/4 AWG with 50 Amps. I would have thought that a 48 Amp load with the 80% rule would have meant a 6/3 or 6/4 gauge with a 60 Amp breaker not 8/3 or 8/4 with a 55 to 50 Amp breaker. I also have a new double oven coming with power requirements of 7800W and 40 A at 240 V where the manufacturer recommends a 50A protection circuit (again I assume this means breaker?) and 10 AWG wire, when I would have thought you'd need an 8/3 cable with a 50A breaker. I'd really appreciate your comments if you have a free moment! Thank you in advance:)
Thank you for your question. For liability reasons, you need to follow the manufactures instructions and recommendations for circuit, breakers and wiring. If it’s new construction I would run the 6/4. It’s not that much more expensive while the walls exposed versus having to go back later. As far as the circuit breakers use what they recommend because that is your safety switch if there’s a problem with your appliance. You wouldn’t want to 60A circuit breaker on there and not have it trip. If this is old construction and you’re not changing out the wire, then never put a breaker on bigger than the wire capacity. I’m sorry I couldn’t be more help.
Video is super helpful! Thank you! Quick question: is it also possible to install these cooktops by means of a plug? Connecting a plug to the end of the cables and simply plugging it in to an existing 240V outlet? Thanks again!
It depends on the model of your cooktop check you install manually. The power cables are sold at appliance stores, Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc. There are different plug configurations so take a picture of what you have.
Why is the neutral white to the breaker box not used? My old stove box had a red, black, white and wire ground. The new stove had a black white and green. I connected black hot from the breaker to stove black and the red hot from the breaker to the stove white. Bare ground went to stove green. It worked. The white neutral from the box was capped off. Should I have wire nutted the white neutral to the bare ground also? Seems weird to have the return neutral not used.
The short answer is NO, do-not connect the white neutral and green(or bare) ground wires together. A pure 240V (2 phase) appliance does not use a neutral wire. The 2 “Hot” wires (usually Red & Black) are 180 degrees out of phase so the current flows from the electrical panel through the black wire to your appliance back to the box through the red wire and then reverses red-appliance-black-panel-black….. A 120V (single phase) appliance needs a way to complete the circuit so a neutral (usually white) wire is connected back to the box. The white and the green ground wire basically do the same thing where as the white wire is the normal path and the green is the oops something is wrong path and should trip the circuit breaker before damage to people or property. A 120V/240V appliances connect all four wires and will use the 2 hot wires (240V) to run the high-voltage heating elements and one of the hots and the neutral wire (120V) to operate vent fans, oven lights, etc. There is also usually transformers in your appliance that drop the voltage down and/or switches it to DC to operate, clocks, timers and digital displays. This is all done internally in your appliance.
I’m a little confused in your description you say “the new stove has a black, white and green”. That sounds like a 120V connection not at 240V. Please double check your install manual. If it is a 120V appliance, then you need to disconnect the white stove wire from the red and connect the whites together. You should then cap the red wire coming from the panel and change the circuit breaker in the box to a 120V using only the black wire. (check your appliance manual for the proper amperage needed). The red wire should be capped in the box also, and just pushed out of the way.
Thanks for answering. The specs on the drop in stove top says it’s 240V and the wiring diagram shows stove black to the breaker, white stove to the breaker and green (which they call earth) to ground wire. I want to use my tester on the ground to make sure green is not hot. I tried the stove and it worked with no errors or breaker tripping. The stove top is china made and induction where the pan gets hot when placed on the surface.
As long as you follow the wiring instructions you should be good. A wire is still just a wire the color of the jacket is just to help with identification. Just cap off the white neutral from the electrical panel and enjoy cooking on your new stove top.
what if the power supply has red, Black, white& copper wire. but the cook top only has red,black&copper. what do I do with the white wire from power supply??
I bought a cooktop on the specification says 240v 4 heating coils 6000w 20amp. Do you think they only use a 20 amp because people don't usually use all four heating coils at once?
I want to know how to check if the wires are 120 or 240 volt ? How or can you make a box that only has 120 into a 240 outlet? I have wires coming from 2 junction box that only have 3 wires coming out: 2 red and 1 black. 1 box has noticeable thinner wires though? How do I measure the existing wires to determine what gage they are?
The gauge of the wires can be determined using a wire gauge which you can purchase at any hardware or electrical store for around $10. As far as determining if the wires are 120 or 240 you can use a voltmeter, but its really determined on how they’re hooked up back at the main electrical panel. If you’re not 100% sure you need to have a certified electrician check all the connections, you don’t want to hook something up and damage the appliance or worse cause a short and a possible fire at your house.
OK I got a new electric flat stove top. It has the black to white and one green do I need to hook that up to a 50 amp or can I hook it to a 30 amp and if so where do you run the black and white wire double breaker.
The amperage should be in your installation manual that came with the stove. Every stove is different, depending on the power requirements as far as what size circuit breaker you need. I would highly recommend you have a licensed electrician install the circuit breaker and wiring to the stove location. In this video I’m just demonstrating how to make the final connections after the drywall paint cabinets and cooktop were installed. You could also call electrician out to do the final connection but they usually charge $100-$200 just to show up.
10 awg - 30 amp 8 awg - 40amp 6 awg - 50 amp You should always run the same size wire home run to the breaker and when your in a metal junction box always ground to the box
Does the cable come straight through the drywall then cabinet backing into the junction box? Or is it required to come through a blue plastic box first?
The cable does come right through the wall and into the cabinet. A box is required where you make the connections. If you already have a box in the wall, you can make the connections there or just add a box in front of it.
This is exactly the point in my induction cooktop installation where I was stumped. Thank you for the explanation, I can now leave the white neutral wire alone and proceed. Much appreciated!
you make it so easy no messing around and wasting time. thank you
Thank you so much. You explained quick, concise and I UNDERSTOOD the principle so I can relay the info to other situations. You're a great teacher. Thank you again. God Bless
I now know how to do all kinds of electrical work. I'm very handy but this has been super helpful.
Great video. The editing and lighting is much better then some other amateur videos I watch. I’m just confused as to why I watched this video since I have a gas range now? 🤔
Can I get some advice from you about replacing electric cooktop? My outlet has black, white, and red wires, but my new cooktop has black, white and green wires. How should I match the color wires in that case? My wall outlet doesn't have ground wire at all. Thanks
Same problem. No house ground wire. So I am just putting the green wire to a screw of the box, although I don't know if the box is grounded. Or you can just leave the green wire unconnected, I guess.
Perfectly explained. Thank you for this video. You've saved me so much money.
I would like an explanation on 240V circuit as I only have so many lives left.
A pure 240V (2 phase) appliance does not use a neutral wire. The 2 “Hot” wires (usually Red & Black) are 180 degrees out of phase so the current flows from the electrical panel through the black wire to your appliance back to the box through the red wire and then reverses red-appliance-black-panel-black….. A 120V (single phase) appliance needs a way to complete the circuit so a neutral (usually white) wire is connected back to the box. The white and the green ground wire basically do the same thing where as the white wire is the normal path and the green is the oops something is wrong path and should trip the circuit breaker before damage to people or property.
A 120V/240V appliances connect all four wires and will use the 2 hot wires (240V) to run the high-voltage heating elements and one of the hots and the neutral wire (120V) to operate vent fans, oven lights, etc. There is also usually transformers in your appliance that drop the voltage down and/or switches it to DC to operate, clocks, timers and digital displays. This is all done internally in your appliance.
An electrician just came out to install a new hybrid cooktop and installed the proper wiring. I noticed that he had connected the white wire and red wire into a wire connector. I tried asking him why he did that but he got irritated.
Nice job. Luckily you have the right size wire coming from the wall and didn’t have to deal with aluminum wires.
Thank you for this video:) I have an induction cooktop to be installed that's power requirements reads up to 11000 W and 48A at 240V. Yet the manufacturer recommends 8/3 AWG with 55 Amp "protection calibre" (which I assume means breaker) or 8/4 AWG with 50 Amps. I would have thought that a 48 Amp load with the 80% rule would have meant a 6/3 or 6/4 gauge with a 60 Amp breaker not 8/3 or 8/4 with a 55 to 50 Amp breaker. I also have a new double oven coming with power requirements of 7800W and 40 A at 240 V where the manufacturer recommends a 50A protection circuit (again I assume this means breaker?) and 10 AWG wire, when I would have thought you'd need an 8/3 cable with a 50A breaker. I'd really appreciate your comments if you have a free moment! Thank you in advance:)
Thank you for your question. For liability reasons, you need to follow the manufactures instructions and recommendations for circuit, breakers and wiring. If it’s new construction I would run the 6/4. It’s not that much more expensive while the walls exposed versus having to go back later. As far as the circuit breakers use what they recommend because that is your safety switch if there’s a problem with your appliance. You wouldn’t want to 60A circuit breaker on there and not have it trip.
If this is old construction and you’re not changing out the wire, then never put a breaker on bigger than the wire capacity.
I’m sorry I couldn’t be more help.
Please make the video in the circuits
Video is super helpful!
Thank you!
Quick question: is it also possible to install these cooktops by means of a plug? Connecting a plug to the end of the cables and simply plugging it in to an existing 240V outlet?
Thanks again!
It depends on the model of your cooktop check you install manually. The power cables are sold at appliance stores, Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc. There are different plug configurations so take a picture of what you have.
Could you show how to rewire a stove-top.
I have an old Frigidaire stove-top, model FEC3X2XAD-1.
Can I hook my cooktop and oven insert together in a box like that on same breaker?
Excellent.
Thank you so much you just save me $175
You’re welcome
Can you use a stove outlet to convert to stove?
Why is the neutral white to the breaker box not used? My old stove box had a red, black, white and wire ground. The new stove had a black white and green. I connected black hot from the breaker to stove black and the red hot from the breaker to the stove white. Bare ground went to stove green. It worked. The white neutral from the box was capped off. Should I have wire nutted the white neutral to the bare ground also? Seems weird to have the return neutral not used.
The short answer is NO, do-not connect the white neutral and green(or bare) ground wires together. A pure 240V (2 phase) appliance does not use a neutral wire. The 2 “Hot” wires (usually Red & Black) are 180 degrees out of phase so the current flows from the electrical panel through the black wire to your appliance back to the box through the red wire and then reverses red-appliance-black-panel-black….. A 120V (single phase) appliance needs a way to complete the circuit so a neutral (usually white) wire is connected back to the box. The white and the green ground wire basically do the same thing where as the white wire is the normal path and the green is the oops something is wrong path and should trip the circuit breaker before damage to people or property.
A 120V/240V appliances connect all four wires and will use the 2 hot wires (240V) to run the high-voltage heating elements and one of the hots and the neutral wire (120V) to operate vent fans, oven lights, etc. There is also usually transformers in your appliance that drop the voltage down and/or switches it to DC to operate, clocks, timers and digital displays. This is all done internally in your appliance.
I’m a little confused in your description you say “the new stove has a black, white and green”. That sounds like a 120V connection not at 240V. Please double check your install manual. If it is a 120V appliance, then you need to disconnect the white stove wire from the red and connect the whites together. You should then cap the red wire coming from the panel and change the circuit breaker in the box to a 120V using only the black wire. (check your appliance manual for the proper amperage needed). The red wire should be capped in the box also, and just pushed out of the way.
Thanks for answering. The specs on the drop in stove top says it’s 240V and the wiring diagram shows stove black to the breaker, white stove to the breaker and green (which they call earth) to ground wire. I want to use my tester on the ground to make sure green is not hot. I tried the stove and it worked with no errors or breaker tripping. The stove top is china made and induction where the pan gets hot when placed on the surface.
The stovetop has no light or timer for 120V usage. It has a digital display that worked with this connection
As long as you follow the wiring instructions you should be good. A wire is still just a wire the color of the jacket is just to help with identification. Just cap off the white neutral from the electrical panel and enjoy cooking on your new stove top.
what if the power supply has red, Black, white& copper wire. but the cook top only has red,black&copper. what do I do with the white wire from power supply??
If the white is not used, then just cap it off with a wire nut and tuck it into the electrical outlet.
I bought a cooktop on the specification says 240v 4 heating coils 6000w 20amp. Do you think they only use a 20 amp because people don't usually use all four heating coils at once?
I want to know how to
check if the wires are 120 or 240 volt ? How or can you make a box that only has 120 into a 240 outlet? I have wires coming from 2 junction box that only have 3 wires coming out: 2 red and 1 black. 1 box has noticeable thinner wires though? How do I measure the existing wires to determine what gage they are?
The gauge of the wires can be determined using a wire gauge which you can purchase at any hardware or electrical store for around $10. As far as determining if the wires are 120 or 240 you can use a voltmeter, but its really determined on how they’re hooked up back at the main electrical panel. If you’re not 100% sure you need to have a certified electrician check all the connections, you don’t want to hook something up and damage the appliance or worse cause a short and a possible fire at your house.
OK I got a new electric flat stove top. It has the black to white and one green do I need to hook that up to a 50 amp or can I hook it to a 30 amp and if so where do you run the black and white wire double breaker.
The amperage should be in your installation manual that came with the stove. Every stove is different, depending on the power requirements as far as what size circuit breaker you need. I would highly recommend you have a licensed electrician install the circuit breaker and wiring to the stove location. In this video I’m just demonstrating how to make the final connections after the drywall paint cabinets and cooktop were installed. You could also call electrician out to do the final connection but they usually charge $100-$200 just to show up.
What is the wire# supposed be from circuit breaker? Thanks
10 awg - 30 amp
8 awg - 40amp
6 awg - 50 amp
You should always run the same size wire home run to the breaker and when your in a metal junction box always ground to the box
Is grounding that metal junction box not required?
You should. This protects you from shock if a bare wire comes in contact with the metal junction box. If it’s a plastic box then no.
@@flyinghammerdiy4487 That's what I figured -- I just didn't see that done in your video, unless I missed it.
10G? 8G? 6G?
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Does the cable come straight through the drywall then cabinet backing into the junction box? Or is it required to come through a blue plastic box first?
The cable does come right through the wall and into the cabinet. A box is required where you make the connections. If you already have a box in the wall, you can make the connections there or just add a box in front of it.
@@spacemanjohn6383 Thank you so much!
I thought you could just plug it in like a regular electric stove 😅
Most cooktops are hardwired, but you could add a plug if you wanted. It would be an extra expense and I’m not sure what the benefit would be.