Got to say, this was a fix for my 1000W Whirlpool unit. I managed to find a couple dead units at the dump (different brands didn't matter), and by using your Ohm testing method was able to identify that my connector was shorted, and I acquired a working connector from the salvage unit. Extracting the Filament terminal and soldering the connections back together has resulted in a very happy wife. I really appreciate you explaining this so well, as not only did you save me $500 but you also allowed me to prevent a perfectly good unit ending up in the landfill because of a simple $3 part. Fingers crossed it lasts for many years to come.
Great video. In my experience the connectors do not work for very long. After trying this method 3 times with the same results, I went back to soldering the connection. It is not easy as the materials are hard but with some assistance from some helping hands clamps, I was able to heat both sides of the connection adequately to make the solder joint. The solder joint is holding well after a few weeks exceeding the connector method.
I have just tried to repair my microwave oven. It was a Hamilton Beach model P90D23AL. Everything worked, but the mag would not turn on. I did the easy checks first: the mag-circuit (diode, capacitor, fuse, mag filament, connection to transform HV coil). There were no improper shorts or open circuits. The diode tested well. Then I checked the transformer primary for continuity or shorts. No problem. The HV secondary was 150 ohms to the case. No problem! I suspected that the door interlock that controls the mag was faulty. Now, the struggle began. They snapped-in when connected, and I could not remove them with ordinary tools (needle-nose pliers). I concluded that they were not made to be easily removed. I tried to remove the interlock switches with the leads still connected to them. They were held by plastic retainers that I could not pry out of the way. RUclips has several videos on the magnetrons and other big components. What we amateurs need is advice on how to remove those snapped-in connecting lugs. That, to me, is the hard part.
Thank you for the video! I have now successfully replaced the white plastic connector assembly and the appliance has been working great. I used a different method of connecting the inductors to the connector terminals, but the basic repair is the same. (I used 2 properly sized bare metal crimp butt splices. I positioned the new connector outside the case to allow space for the crimp tool to do it's work, then assembled it with the screws and nuts.) FYI - The old connector/capacitor assembly has a small visible bulge and burn mark on the side that now measures about 26 ohms to its mounting bracket, so it's definitely the cause of the magnetron's failure.
@@roseelectronics4582 The manufacturer has chosen to weld the connections instead of simply soldering them. That tells me that it probably can get too hot for soldered connections to be reliable, especially when cooking for long periods of time. I was tempted to just solder them but I did not want to have regrets and have to do the repair a second time. (Mine has been working for about 2 months now without any problems.)
@@ForYou2C I too tried soldering the terminals to the chokes. I even made sure to remove any coating or oxidation plus wrapped the connections with small guage copper strand before soldering. The connections (copper and solder) EVAPORATED when I turned it on! I then used crimp connectors, and it worked, but was arcing inside the waveguide and would not heat water. Time for a new magnetron!
Thanks you for the demonstrating the terminals shorting to the chassis. Over time and due to high voltage the porcelain weakens and provides a path to the chassis. Good idea to change input connector. I wonder if there would be any sparking at the points where the metal connectors are joined to the coils. It will be good to do some insulation of the metal connector just that very high voltage will be passing through the two metallic connectors that were inserted.
Hi there! As long as internal circuitry of magnetron(filament) is conducting properly- no sparks expected between those metal brackets. But who knows for how long filament will last... Then spark and blown fuse for sure.
CAUTION: Drilling out the "rivets" can generate metal shavings which can be sucked into the center pole gap and be difficult, if not impossible to retrieve. I'm going on the assumption that this might be problematic, electrically.
I'm concerned the connector might be heat-damaged during the soldering process. Haven't done mine yet but I'll sink the heat from the replacement terminal housing using needle nose pliers.
Thanks for the video. Good visual representation of the job. It would have been nice if there was more narration about what the different things were that you were doing.
Excellent video. Need your opinion. I have a Panasonic NN-CD989S convection microwave and it makes a buzzing noise when starting up for about 2 seconds. It still warms up food but recently had a burning electrical smell. Can you tell me what is happening? Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Hey M, Tried a new magnetron and same buzzing sound for 2 seconds on startup. I guess the magnetron was sound. You had mentioned the transformer. Do you have any further thoughts? Thanks for your time
Because original joint was welded and that is the only correct way to do the job. Any heavy duty screw terminal will substitute that bond better than soldering for this particular case, just need to find suitable size. Home Depot sells it.
Nice video. Question is where to buy this filament. Name and value of filament. How it works and what is the alternative if filament not available? Its a diode or capacitor? Can we direct conect 2 wires without fillament? Please reply.
Sir, these are not capacitors, they are chokes. And unless they are physically touching the casing, they will not be causing the short to earth. At 1:29 it looks like the black ferrite cores have started to slide out of the choke coils. It may be these that were touching the casing, in which case, all you needed to do was tighten the coils so that the cores couldn't slide out. Or, as Atma S pointed out, the short could be caused by a damaged porcelain insulator, which may have allowed the inner terminals to touch. And when you cut the chokes out, you probably wriggled the terminal wire on the other side of the insulator free from the short.
The conductors that go through the white connector blocks ARE part of the feed-through capacitors built into the connector assembly. Regarding the ferrite cores of the inductors, ('chokes', as you called them), they are not loose, but appear to be intentionally positioned off-center of the coil for frequency tuning purposes. The measured short is indeed within the white connector, not the inductor. In fact, mine has a small dark burned bump in the plastic on the terminal side that measures shorted. And, yes, this is after I cut the inductor wires, so I'm measuring resistance from the two terminals to ground through the connector only. If you want to take issue with how he chose to connect the inductors to the new connector, that's fine. (I'm using a non-insulated butt splice crimp connector instead.) But I thank him for teaching me that these connectors, (with the built-in capacitors), are OFTEN the cause of what goes shorted in a magnetron.
Yes, like many others have already said, the white connecter has two capacitors, one for each pin of the connector. The capacitors are connected between the pin and the ground, in this case the ground is the bare metel rim that allows the connector to be fixed to the magnetron's body. To make sure they, indeed are capacitors, you can measure from each pin to the metal part of the connector with your meter on capacitance range. Try this on a known good one. A defective one might not show correct result.
@@ForYou2C Bravo! Finally, someone who knows what he is talking about! The only thing that I disagree with is that there are no capacitors in the connector, just straight thru pins. The high voltage capacitor, mounted separately from the magnetron, is the only one in that circuit. Oh, and by the way, those ferrite cores are glued into place.
@@roseelectronics4582 There is no capacitor in that connector at all. The one to three ohm reading you get between the two pins of a good connector is continuity thru the magnetron tube or 'valve'. If you intend to replace the connector by cutting the connection with the coils 'chokes', you will find that now you will have an open circuit between the connector pins. If one of them has arced or shorted to the case, you may see continuity to the metal case, or maybe not. Look for evidence of a burn or arc in the plastic connector. Mine was a tiny black dot on the plastic, and there was still a resistance reading from one of the pins to the bracket.
Morozov, I finally got the terminal connectors from China. And the and the mechanical lugs from Home Depot as you recommended. I put the magnetron. Back together again with the mechanical lugs attaching the spiral circuit to the terminal connector using the mechanical lug. To my surprise the microwave worked on the first time I put water into it and press 2 minutes. However when I tried to Started a second time. I heard a lots of crackles and Pops coming out of the magnetron. And the microwave turned off after 5 Seconds. This I believe was because the first time I ran it the microwave and magnetron was very cool. And the second time it was very hot and it just needed some time to cool down. I waited for a cool down and then it work again and heated up the water. I'm not sure what caused the crackle and pop. You know when it's hot and you started a second time. But I think it has to do with the mechanical connector. Possibly not connecting the magnetron secure enough. I did it as you said. And remove the little piece of copper in that lug and just use the set screw to press the two wires together. However, do you think that could cause an intermittent connection and that would cause Sparks and the cracking and the popping and the turning it off when the oven is hot. Please respond as soon as possible. Thank you so much for your great idea.
I redid the electrical connection and the sparking went away inside the magnetron it work I thought I cooked a 12 minute dinner but then when I restarted it a couple Sparks came back as long as I let it rest between cooking sessions I don't get the Sparks. I given up at this point and going to try to deal with it but I'm wondering if this microwave was good just going to blow up on me when I least expect it what do you think?
@@PalardoTube The problem may be that the tip of the choke (coil) that you clamped to the connector still has an insulating coating, like a varnish, on it. Clean that tip down to shiny metal and reconnect it.
The clamp was bought in Home Depot, unfortunately did not save the package and P/N. It is a Heavy Duty Copper Mechanical Lug (It looks like this part: #GSLU-35 , but smaller size) and I did modify it. Had to cut off the "O-ring" part and left "screw in the hole" part, so original clamp looks different.
My microwave broke down after 25 years. Replaced high voltage diode, still no worky. Replaced entire magnetron, works again perfectly. Did not think you could replace only that bit. Looks a bit too tricky to my taste though 😁
This guy ain't know what he doing or saying. Even if he change the filter box thermal. How do we know it heating. Yes you getting a reading. But but some magnetron when testing you can get a reading but no heat. How do i know. I learned from the best. Mr. Fix it 360. He is the best he know things in microwave that other videos don't show.
@@jameswoody9360 You are wrong. He is correct in the repair he is demonstrating. That connector has arced internally to the case or body of the magnetron, which is grounded, and is now defective and has to be replaced. The procedure he used to test it is absolutely correct. If there is any resistance reading between either of the terminals and the metal case, the connector is damaged, and must be replaced.
Have u ever replaced a maggy with another of different type? Are some interchangeable ? I've got two bad mags that test perfectly with meter and no obvious physical damage. What could other problems be? Bad berilium?
@@Smallz2000i cheers. Luckily , I got sent another mag same and fitted good. So two tested perfect but didn't heat up food. I guess fine cracks somewhere.
Hi i,m from Bangladesh. My microwave oven When the oven door is opened, the rotation motor is driven and the lights are turned on. And when the oven door is closed, the breaker trips through the primary lock switch. Nothing heated while the display was in good condition. I don't know what the problem is. Advise or help me.
Hello Again Morozov ...Thank you for the interesting terminal fix approach. It inspired me to fix my magnetron this way so I ordered 5 connectors from china. You left out mentioning how difficult it was to bend the spiral wires to connect to the terminal s. This by itself took a couple of hours. You also bent the two pins coming out of the connector to the exact angle that would accommodate connecting the tiny clamps. By the way I can't find such a tiny clamp. PLease tell me where to find such a tiny abutment clamp. I am anxious to see if this fixes my magnetron. Did this fix actually work in the magnetron you repaired in the video. Did the microwave heat up without turning off.???
Hello Palardo, about clamp- I've bought it at Home Depot, unfortunately did not save the package and P/N. It is a Heavy Duty Copper Mechanical Lug (It looks like this part: #GSLU-35 , but smaller size) and I did modified it- had to cut off the "O-ring" part and left "screw in the hole" part, so original clamp looks different. The magnetron works flawlessly after repair but I might have gotten lucky to only have failed Filament terminal and still had the rest of the circuitry intact, for example- if internal spiral is intermittent it can pass continuity test but fail under load. In this case- no repair, replacement only.
@@MorozovAutomotive By the way I can't find such a tiny lug clamp. PLease tell me where to find such a tiny abutment clamp smaller that the 14-6 AWG you mentioned..
They have cook at night thats why that magnetron is burned by over voltage bcz at night the main power can go at 300VAC you also check the hv capacitor
Magnetron circuitry is very tricky, filament inside might be physically broken and still be able to show normal conductivity but not under load- and this part is not accessible or repairable.
That's awesome. Except for all the screws, if you spend an hour between watching this video and takign apart a microwave, you can fix it for very cheap money compared to buying a new magnetron for $50! Thanks!
Can I buy two of those filament terminals from you. Not available in US. Let me know how I can pay you. Also you should show that the microwave works after you fix the mag. There are a lot of people who don't believe this is such a simple fix. Thanks.
There is a link for filament terminals www.amazon.com/uxcell-Electronic-Microwave-Magnetron-Filament/dp/B07N2MSGFQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NXFVOO9Q4NTI&dchild=1&keywords=magnetron+filament+terminal&qid=1613710754&sprefix=magnetron+filament+%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3 ; This fix was really simple but it doesn't mean that is only reason for fail magnetron , filament itself could be intermittent, burned antenna as well.
this copper springs are calibrated for a specific inductance. By altering the coil all calibration will be lost. Stop trying to fix everything without actual knowledge.
This "copper spring" actually is Inductor or (obsolete) Choke. In Magnetron they are used for Interference suppression. Number of turns in the coil is pre-calculated for each magnetron application and there is nothing to calibrate. General idea of this demonstration was- replacement of the faulty component and circuitry restoration without welding. Both- Length and Number of turns of the Inductor Wire have not been altered except removing original welding material from the tip of Inductor wire. It means that all designer's settings for magnetron were fully replicated Welding without questions would be the best way to finish this job.
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Got to say, this was a fix for my 1000W Whirlpool unit. I managed to find a couple dead units at the dump (different brands didn't matter), and by using your Ohm testing method was able to identify that my connector was shorted, and I acquired a working connector from the salvage unit. Extracting the Filament terminal and soldering the connections back together has resulted in a very happy wife. I really appreciate you explaining this so well, as not only did you save me $500 but you also allowed me to prevent a perfectly good unit ending up in the landfill because of a simple $3 part. Fingers crossed it lasts for many years to come.
Great video. In my experience the connectors do not work for very long. After trying this method 3 times with the same results, I went back to soldering the connection. It is not easy as the materials are hard but with some assistance from some helping hands clamps, I was able to heat both sides of the connection adequately to make the solder joint. The solder joint is holding well after a few weeks exceeding the connector method.
strange i thought he used the connectors for it to last more than soldering, what did u find went wrong with the connectors??
I have just tried to repair my microwave oven. It was a Hamilton Beach model P90D23AL. Everything worked, but the mag would not turn on. I did the easy checks first: the mag-circuit (diode, capacitor, fuse, mag filament, connection to transform HV coil). There were no improper shorts or open circuits. The diode tested well. Then I checked the transformer primary for continuity or shorts. No problem. The HV secondary was 150 ohms to the case. No problem!
I suspected that the door interlock that controls the mag was faulty. Now, the struggle began. They snapped-in when connected, and I could not remove them with ordinary tools (needle-nose pliers). I concluded that they were not made to be easily removed. I tried to remove the interlock switches with the leads still connected to them. They were held by plastic retainers that I could not pry out of the way.
RUclips has several videos on the magnetrons and other big components. What we amateurs need is advice on how to remove those snapped-in connecting lugs. That, to me, is the hard part.
Fixed my microwave! I soldered the connections and it held well.
still working?
Thank you for the video! I have now successfully replaced the white plastic connector assembly and the appliance has been working great. I used a different method of connecting the inductors to the connector terminals, but the basic repair is the same. (I used 2 properly sized bare metal crimp butt splices. I positioned the new connector outside the case to allow space for the crimp tool to do it's work, then assembled it with the screws and nuts.) FYI - The old connector/capacitor assembly has a small visible bulge and burn mark on the side that now measures about 26 ohms to its mounting bracket, so it's definitely the cause of the magnetron's failure.
How about soldering instead of using connectors. Just a thought because in most cases soldering makes better electrical conduction.
@@roseelectronics4582 The manufacturer has chosen to weld the connections instead of simply soldering them. That tells me that it probably can get too hot for soldered connections to be reliable, especially when cooking for long periods of time. I was tempted to just solder them but I did not want to have regrets and have to do the repair a second time. (Mine has been working for about 2 months now without any problems.)
Thanks for this thread - I was wondering if solder was up to the task.
@@ForYou2C I too tried soldering the terminals to the chokes. I even made sure to remove any coating or oxidation plus wrapped the connections with small guage copper strand before soldering. The connections (copper and solder) EVAPORATED when I turned it on!
I then used crimp connectors, and it worked, but was arcing inside the waveguide and would not heat water.
Time for a new magnetron!
Thanks you for the demonstrating the terminals shorting to the chassis. Over time and due to high voltage the porcelain weakens and provides a path to the chassis.
Good idea to change input connector. I wonder if there would be any sparking at the points where the metal connectors are joined to the coils. It will be good to do some insulation of the metal connector just that very high voltage will be passing through the two metallic connectors that were inserted.
Hi there!
As long as internal circuitry of magnetron(filament) is conducting properly- no sparks expected between those metal brackets.
But who knows for how long filament will last...
Then spark and blown fuse for sure.
All of the ones that I have found on Amazon are plastic, not porcelain or ceramic. If anyone can find some that are not plastic, please let me know.
What are the clamps that you used to connect the terminals without soldering?
Repaired my Whirlpool after looking at this video and others. (Order at Grandado) Thanx
Thanks for de video easy repair. greetings marco
Well done, keep up good work!
Awesome video. Thank you for creating and posting!!
CAUTION: Drilling out the "rivets" can generate metal shavings which can be sucked into the center pole gap and be difficult, if not impossible to retrieve. I'm going on the assumption that this might be problematic, electrically.
با سلام وسپاس عالی و مفید بود.OK
Can i ask why did you not use sloder, im asking because i used solder for mine wondering if ill run into problems, as the mag heats up?
I'm concerned the connector might be heat-damaged during the soldering process. Haven't done mine yet but I'll sink the heat from the replacement terminal housing using needle nose pliers.
Thanks for the video. Good visual representation of the job. It would have been nice if there was more narration about what the different things were that you were doing.
Excellent video. Need your opinion. I have a Panasonic NN-CD989S convection microwave and it makes a buzzing noise when starting up for about 2 seconds. It still warms up food but recently had a burning electrical smell. Can you tell me what is happening? Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Could be magnetron or transformer but I can not speculate.
@@MorozovAutomotive thank you for your prompt reply. I ordered a new magnetron and will give it a shot👍🏻
Hey M,
Tried a new magnetron and same buzzing sound for 2 seconds on startup. I guess the magnetron was sound. You had mentioned the transformer. Do you have any further thoughts? Thanks for your time
It is an inverter microwave so I do t think there is a transformer
Mr. Engineer, is there any diod used ?
Good job and explaination. Thanks
Are these connector that available on amazon universal?
Why not solder at 9:30? What are those joining pieces called?
Because original joint was welded and that is the only correct way to do the job. Any heavy duty screw terminal will substitute that bond better than soldering for this particular case, just need to find suitable size. Home Depot sells it.
Good tutorial it will help a lot
What type of connectors did you use thanks
Heavy duty High voltage clamps from Home Depot. Partially cut them to make it fit to this application.
Where did you buy that capacitor terminal
@@amritpalsingh4195 It is called a magnetron filament terminal connector, and can be found on Amazon, sold by several vendors.
What is the cause of magnetron damage..or always blown..
Nice video. Question is where to buy this filament. Name and value of filament. How it works and what is the alternative if filament not available? Its a diode or capacitor? Can we direct conect 2 wires without fillament? Please reply.
Perfect repair
Very helpful but were can I buy the replacement filament
i ordered it on Amazon (Pack of 4 Filaments).
@@MorozovAutomotive Not a filament, it's available on Amazon from several vendors. Search for "magnetron filament terminal connector".
Sir, these are not capacitors, they are chokes. And unless they are physically touching the casing, they will not be causing the short to earth. At 1:29 it looks like the black ferrite cores have started to slide out of the choke coils. It may be these that were touching the casing, in which case, all you needed to do was tighten the coils so that the cores couldn't slide out. Or, as Atma S pointed out, the short could be caused by a damaged porcelain insulator, which may have allowed the inner terminals to touch. And when you cut the chokes out, you probably wriggled the terminal wire on the other side of the insulator free from the short.
The conductors that go through the white connector blocks ARE part of the feed-through capacitors built into the connector assembly. Regarding the ferrite cores of the inductors, ('chokes', as you called them), they are not loose, but appear to be intentionally positioned off-center of the coil for frequency tuning purposes. The measured short is indeed within the white connector, not the inductor. In fact, mine has a small dark burned bump in the plastic on the terminal side that measures shorted. And, yes, this is after I cut the inductor wires, so I'm measuring resistance from the two terminals to ground through the connector only.
If you want to take issue with how he chose to connect the inductors to the new connector, that's fine. (I'm using a non-insulated butt splice crimp connector instead.) But I thank him for teaching me that these connectors, (with the built-in capacitors), are OFTEN the cause of what goes shorted in a magnetron.
The white part he is replacing has two capacitors inside. They are filtering caps.
Yes, like many others have already said, the white connecter has two capacitors, one for each pin of the connector. The capacitors are connected between the pin and the ground, in this case the ground is the bare metel rim that allows the connector to be fixed to the magnetron's body. To make sure they, indeed are capacitors, you can measure from each pin to the metal part of the connector with your meter on capacitance range. Try this on a known good one. A defective one might not show correct result.
@@ForYou2C Bravo! Finally, someone who knows what he is talking about! The only thing that I disagree with is that there are no capacitors in the connector, just straight thru pins. The high voltage capacitor, mounted separately from the magnetron, is the only one in that circuit. Oh, and by the way, those ferrite cores are glued into place.
@@roseelectronics4582 There is no capacitor in that connector at all. The one to three ohm reading you get between the two pins of a good connector is continuity thru the magnetron tube or 'valve'. If you intend to replace the connector by cutting the connection with the coils 'chokes', you will find that now you will have an open circuit between the connector pins. If one of them has arced or shorted to the case, you may see continuity to the metal case, or maybe not. Look for evidence of a burn or arc in the plastic connector. Mine was a tiny black dot on the plastic, and there was still a resistance reading from one of the pins to the bracket.
How can I get the part u replaced. Please direct me
Morozov, I finally got the terminal connectors from China. And the and the mechanical lugs from Home Depot as you recommended. I put the magnetron. Back together again with the mechanical lugs attaching the spiral circuit to the terminal connector using the mechanical lug. To my surprise the microwave worked on the first time I put water into it and press 2 minutes. However when I tried to Started a second time. I heard a lots of crackles and Pops coming out of the magnetron. And the microwave turned off after 5 Seconds. This I believe was because the first time I ran it the microwave and magnetron was very cool. And the second time it was very hot and it just needed some time to cool down. I waited for a cool down and then it work again and heated up the water. I'm not sure what caused the crackle and pop. You know when it's hot and you started a second time. But I think it has to do with the mechanical connector. Possibly not connecting the magnetron secure enough. I did it as you said. And remove the little piece of copper in that lug and just use the set screw to press the two wires together. However, do you think that could cause an intermittent connection and that would cause Sparks and the cracking and the popping and the turning it off when the oven is hot. Please respond as soon as possible. Thank you so much for your great idea.
It is hard to solve in absentia. Looks like bad electrical connection but it could be bad High Voltage diode as well.
I redid the electrical connection and the sparking went away inside the magnetron it work I thought I cooked a 12 minute dinner but then when I restarted it a couple Sparks came back as long as I let it rest between cooking sessions I don't get the Sparks. I given up at this point and going to try to deal with it but I'm wondering if this microwave was good just going to blow up on me when I least expect it what do you think?
@@PalardoTube The problem may be that the tip of the choke (coil) that you clamped to the connector still has an insulating coating, like a varnish, on it. Clean that tip down to shiny metal and reconnect it.
You list all parts except the connector you used to join the new filament. Can you tell me what its called?
The clamp was bought in Home Depot, unfortunately did not save the package and P/N. It is a Heavy Duty Copper Mechanical Lug (It looks like this part: #GSLU-35 , but smaller size) and I did modify it. Had to cut off the "O-ring" part and left "screw in the hole" part, so original clamp looks different.
My microwave broke down after 25 years. Replaced high voltage diode, still no worky. Replaced entire magnetron, works again perfectly. Did not think you could replace only that bit. Looks a bit too tricky to my taste though 😁
This guy ain't know what he doing or saying. Even if he change the filter box thermal. How do we know it heating. Yes you getting a reading. But but some magnetron when testing you can get a reading but no heat. How do i know. I learned from the best. Mr. Fix it 360. He is the best he know things in microwave that other videos don't show.
ruclips.net/video/5QD4sSUXfio/видео.html
The magnetron will read or tested good. But no heat. One of the causes it's the magnet crack causing the magnetron not to give out any heat.
His channel is a automatic channel. Not a microwave oven repair man. He is misleading people.
@@jameswoody9360 You are wrong. He is correct in the repair he is demonstrating. That connector has arced internally to the case or body of the magnetron, which is grounded, and is now defective and has to be replaced. The procedure he used to test it is absolutely correct. If there is any resistance reading between either of the terminals and the metal case, the connector is damaged, and must be replaced.
Have u ever replaced a maggy with another of different type? Are some interchangeable ? I've got two bad mags that test perfectly with meter and no obvious physical damage. What could other problems be? Bad berilium?
The relay on the control board is mostly the issue,
@@Smallz2000i cheers. Luckily , I got sent another mag same and fitted good. So two tested perfect but didn't heat up food. I guess fine cracks somewhere.
very educative thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Hi i,m from Bangladesh.
My microwave oven When the oven door is opened, the rotation motor is driven and the lights are turned on. And when the oven door is closed, the breaker trips through the primary lock switch. Nothing heated while the display was in good condition. I don't know what the problem is. Advise or help me.
Can i use any magnetron for any microwave Owen
Any one bro.
Hello Again Morozov ...Thank you for the interesting terminal fix approach. It inspired me to fix my magnetron this way so I ordered 5 connectors from china. You left out mentioning how difficult it was to bend the spiral wires to connect to the terminal s. This by itself took a couple of hours. You also bent the two pins coming out of the connector to the exact angle that would accommodate connecting the tiny clamps.
By the way I can't find such a tiny clamp. PLease tell me where to find such a tiny abutment clamp.
I am anxious to see if this fixes my magnetron. Did this fix actually work in the magnetron you repaired in the video. Did the microwave heat up without turning off.???
Hello Palardo, about clamp- I've bought it at Home Depot, unfortunately did not save the package and P/N. It is a Heavy Duty Copper Mechanical Lug (It looks like this part: #GSLU-35 , but smaller size) and I did modified it- had to cut off the "O-ring" part and left "screw in the hole" part, so original clamp looks different.
The magnetron works flawlessly after repair but I might have gotten lucky to only have failed Filament terminal and still had the rest of the circuitry intact, for example- if internal spiral is intermittent it can pass continuity test but fail under load. In this case- no repair, replacement only.
@@MorozovAutomotive By the way I can't find such a tiny lug clamp. PLease tell me where to find such a tiny abutment clamp smaller that the 14-6 AWG you mentioned..
THe 14-6 lug from Homedepot may fit if I cut it down, but it loopks the same size as the one in your video. Is the lug you used a 18-10 AWG then?
Great video,thanx a lot
Where do you buy the capactor from?
amazon
Not a capacitor, just a connector. Go to Amazon, search for magnetron filament terminal connector. Several sources available.
@@paulmonk7820 wrong two 350pF inside to ground
They have cook at night thats why that magnetron is burned by over voltage bcz at night the main power can go at 300VAC you also check the hv capacitor
My magnetron is testing well but still not working why, the terminals test is good ,the test to the casing is good what is the problem?
Magnetron circuitry is very tricky, filament inside might be physically broken and still be able to show normal conductivity but not under load- and this part is not accessible or repairable.
Check the fuse between the mag. And the capacitor.
Thanks for you 🌹 iran
That's awesome. Except for all the screws, if you spend an hour between watching this video and takign apart a microwave, you can fix it for very cheap money compared to buying a new magnetron for $50! Thanks!
Bravo maestro obregado
Excellent
Thank you nice sir
Can I buy two of those filament terminals from you. Not available in US. Let me know how I can pay you. Also you should show that the microwave works after you fix the mag. There are a lot of people who don't believe this is such a simple fix. Thanks.
There is a link for filament terminals www.amazon.com/uxcell-Electronic-Microwave-Magnetron-Filament/dp/B07N2MSGFQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2NXFVOO9Q4NTI&dchild=1&keywords=magnetron+filament+terminal&qid=1613710754&sprefix=magnetron+filament+%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3 ; This fix was really simple but it doesn't mean that is only reason for fail magnetron , filament itself could be intermittent, burned antenna as well.
@@MorozovAutomotive uxcell has a 2 month delay. Can you sell me 1 and ship it sooner? Is there a reason why you cannot?
Sorry I do not have any. Gave them to my friends already.
@@PalardoTube There are many vendors of those connectors selling thru Amazon. Go to Amazon and search for magnetron filament terminal.
eBay too but zero North American sellers that I can find.
Thank you.
Very very very good
where to order the items you used for the repair?
Thank you
فكرة ممتازة ورائعة
شكرا جزيلا
I think very dangerous riskiest 😮
❤❤❤❤❤
In 20 years of repairing microwaves, LG magnetrons failed the most.
Filement kha milega
why are you not showing the picture clear how you repairing, its like you hiding it, show how remove it and replace it cleally.
this copper springs are calibrated for a specific inductance. By altering the coil all calibration will be lost. Stop trying to fix everything without actual knowledge.
This "copper spring" actually is Inductor or (obsolete) Choke. In Magnetron they are used for Interference suppression. Number of turns in the coil is pre-calculated for each magnetron application and there is nothing to calibrate. General idea of this demonstration was- replacement of the faulty component and circuitry restoration without welding. Both- Length and Number of turns of the Inductor Wire have not been altered except removing original welding material from the tip of Inductor wire. It means that all designer's settings for magnetron were fully replicated Welding without questions would be the best way to finish this job.
Demme bro,why using a knife,buy proper tools bro,it will look more professional??
Don'make fool public😁
Good 👍 job