Excellent video, I moved the brake hose out of it’s fixing to give some more space to get a wrench in. I reiterate your point about matching the brake pads up the same as the old ones come out, I mistakenly didn’t and put in two brake pads without the extra bit on one side and when I came to the other realised and had to undo what I just did. Should have listened more to your point! Also my pads came with new metal retainer clips so I swapped out the old ones.
Generally, quite standard and useful tips on how to change discs/pads but I would not put any copper grease on anti-rattle clips where pads are moving as dust can easily get stuck to them causing the disc to seize...Better to apply some grease between cleaned yoke surface and clip to avoid any future corrosion
I did it both sides thanks to the video. However I’m having brake noise (which made me change the pads and discs) and it seems that the pads are rubbing on the discs still. I think I may have a sticking piston as it was very hard to push back. Would this ring true?
There are two signs of a sticking piston, the first is that the wheel is hot after driving and the second, if you jack the wheel up but cant turn the wheel with one hand, there should be a small amount of friction but the wheel should spin a little. I've recently changed my callipers on my Avensis, as my pads were sticking to the disc, make sure you subscribe, as I will be posting it it soon.
Iv done my brakes before on my last car but could not get the retaining screw out the disc. Before I rake my gtc that's probably on original discs at 50k... any tips? Yours just came off so easy..
You may have tried this already, but if not try turning the screw driver with one hand while tapping the end of the screw driver with a hammer, the shock might just set it free.
ryan pratt thanks, yes give it a go, you will get a real sense of achievement. Let me know how you get on and if I have missed anything from the video.
Good job. except, you’ve covered the pads and disc with the copper slip on your gloves, I don’t think that’ll help the breaking distance very much. Lol. Great video though. Came in very handy. 👍
@@amateurtorque6709 there are 2 different sized discs fitted to the Astra J, the 300 is the bigger of the two, you need to check what size is fitted to the car before ordering parts
@@amateurtorque6709 Hi, 😊 great video. I think you can use swan necks to push the piston back. Can I just ask, do you have to remove the lid off the brake fluid reservoir and bleed the brakes up afterwards or did you clamp the hose? I am confident doing the remove and replace but not bleeding the system. Any tips would be appreciated. Thank you.
@@sallylane728 nice to have a girl doing her own brakes. you don't need to remove the lid off the reservoir. I didn't bleed the brakes on this due to the car being fairly new.
Excellent video, I moved the brake hose out of it’s fixing to give some more space to get a wrench in. I reiterate your point about matching the brake pads up the same as the old ones come out, I mistakenly didn’t and put in two brake pads without the extra bit on one side and when I came to the other realised and had to undo what I just did. Should have listened more to your point! Also my pads came with new metal retainer clips so I swapped out the old ones.
Thanks Peter, pleased the video helped
Generally, quite standard and useful tips on how to change discs/pads but I would not put any copper grease on anti-rattle clips where pads are moving as dust can easily get stuck to them causing the disc to seize...Better to apply some grease between cleaned yoke surface and clip to avoid any future corrosion
Thanks for your comment, what type of grease would you recommend?
@@amateurtorque6709 Any ceramic grease for automotive parts should be just fine
I did it both sides thanks to the video. However I’m having brake noise (which made me change the pads and discs) and it seems that the pads are rubbing on the discs still. I think I may have a sticking piston as it was very hard to push back. Would this ring true?
There are two signs of a sticking piston, the first is that the wheel is hot after driving and the second, if you jack the wheel up but cant turn the wheel with one hand, there should be a small amount of friction but the wheel should spin a little. I've recently changed my callipers on my Avensis, as my pads were sticking to the disc, make sure you subscribe, as I will be posting it it soon.
Iv done my brakes before on my last car but could not get the retaining screw out the disc. Before I rake my gtc that's probably on original discs at 50k... any tips? Yours just came off so easy..
You may have tried this already, but if not try turning the screw driver with one hand while tapping the end of the screw driver with a hammer, the shock might just set it free.
Great job . I only watched to see if the caliper needed winding back in .
Refreshing to see someone using copper slip how and where it should be used
ryan pratt thanks, yes give it a go, you will get a real sense of achievement. Let me know how you get on and if I have missed anything from the video.
Great Job, Ive just changed mine using your guidance easy peezy. many thanks
Thanks Pat, pleased the video helped.
Good job. except, you’ve covered the pads and disc with the copper slip on your gloves, I don’t think that’ll help the breaking distance very much. Lol. Great video though. Came in very handy. 👍
Mark Gibb don't worry it was my brothers car 😄. Pleased it came in useful, cheers.
thank you Ser
I though copper grease is causing sticky brake pads?
Hi Jan, make sure you apply the copper grease on the caliper side of the pads and not the disc side
Tried this today and shattered the 10 hex bolts, need to try and extract them but does anyone know the length of the bolt so I can order new ones?
Thankyou!
Thank you so much I just changed my discs with ease after watching you video. Do you have one where you change the discs on back wheels too?
Mads Valentinus pleased you found it useful. I don't have a rear disc video yet but I will consider one in the spring when the weather warms up.
I was told the rear caliper is harder to wind back that part that you did with the clamp? And you actually need a special tool?
I'm not sure at the moment, but I'll check the brakes next service and if they need changed I will video it.
Nice job.What pads you use to and what disks
Ivo Stoyanchov thank you, I used EBC disc and pads,purchased new from eBay for £98.
Is the EBC the best brand for disc and pads? What about pagid from Eurocarparts or what other brands would you recommend? Thanks
@@serfmio Pagid is an OK Make
What are the sizes of the brake disc please?
Hi, 300mm
@@amateurtorque6709 there are 2 different sized discs fitted to the Astra J, the 300 is the bigger of the two, you need to check what size is fitted to the car before ordering parts
great video matey. nice 1 is the astra in video the GTC model?
spinx1200 hi there, no it's not the GTC, it's the SRi CDTi.
mine's is the GTC CDTI sri, does that make any sense matey? lol
Copper grease all over the discs and pads, no torque settings used on the bolts, wound back piston with a g clamp - amateur definitely sums it up.
Hi Tommy, thanks for your comment. You are right it was a bit messy leaving grease on the disc. What do you use to wind the piston back?
So what should u use to set caliper then please
No slider pin removal and clean / grease either
@@amateurtorque6709 Hi, 😊 great video. I think you can use swan necks to push the piston back. Can I just ask, do you have to remove the lid off the brake fluid reservoir and bleed the brakes up afterwards or did you clamp the hose? I am confident doing the remove and replace but not bleeding the system. Any tips would be appreciated. Thank you.
@@sallylane728 nice to have a girl doing her own brakes. you don't need to remove the lid off the reservoir. I didn't bleed the brakes on this due to the car being fairly new.