Just a tip from my father ( a retired machanic now) gave me when working on cars. NEVER stand in front or behind a car when some else starts it esp when parked as such these, if it`s in gear and the person starting is not in the car you are going to get crushed b4 they stop it. It has saved me a couple of times.
Just a warning...you should always attach the dead car first in the sequence (red dead, red donor, black dead ground, then black donor terminal). If there is an issue with fuse or there is a short (or you hooked it up wrong), then there is less likely that you are touching the dead car's frame and leading to a possible shock/burn (as you need to find a grounding point on the dead car, your hands may be in a bad location, versus the donor, where the jumps are directly on the battery and the fuse box should protect you from ground fault).
In Toyota Hybrid cars you don't actually need a ton of power, the Hybrid battery is still charged, just the lead battery is dead. Toyota hybrids disconnect the high voltage battery when you turn it off, so you need to supply enough voltage to startup the system ( ready light ) and then the DC-DC converter kicks in and charges the lead battery from the high voltage battery and even starts the engine if needed. Be careful if one car has another voltage ( 24 V or even 48 V ) you wreck the other cars electronics if you try hook it up.
My battery ran out and I needed to get my kid to school. I haven’t jumped a car in a decade - my husband normally dies it if necessary, but he’s gone at the moment and I totally did it myself!! Thank you sooooo much for your tutorial!
One thing I would add is always wind a window down on both vehicles first. Normally you can unless it’s dead flat. That way you never will be locked out. Excellent videos thanks.
You'd think this would be in the show me tell me part of the test. So many times I've seen people jump starting a car via connecting battery terminals, and I've even seen them do it in the wrong way. Quite a bright spark when you see it happen from a good 1/4 mile away at night.
My little boy, Jackson (4) heard your voice and gave my phone a cuddle and wants you to be his friend 😂. He loves watching cars with Daddy and watches loss of your videos with me (even though I’m sure he doesn’t follow it all 🙈)
Definitely worth knowing how to jump start a vehicle, especially at this particular time. However, much as I appreciate that a Hybrid is different to the "normal" petrol or diesel there are points I wish to add here: 1) Although extremely unlikely now, there are a few vehicles remaining that have a *positive* earth. That makes them incompatible in this instance as most are *negative*. Damage could result here. 2) Beware of those cars where the battery is mounted in the boot 😆 - mine happens to be one of them. 3) Based on my general knowledge and experience I would always advise that the donor car is of a greater engine size than recipient vehicle (if like for like i.e. petrol to petrol or diesel to diesel). Also it is important to note that a diesel does require significantly more juice to "crank" than a petrol so you would almost certainly need a significantly larger petrol donor/ diesel recipient. A recent case in point - a 1.0 litre petrol donor attempted to jump a 2.5 litre diesel. Quite simply put it just didn't work. Worst case scenario is just simply to remove the battery and then trickle charge for 24 hours if you have this option. Hope this helps. Thanks for the 2nd upload today Ashley. Unexpected 👍
If possible don't remove the battery if you don't really have to. It is likely some of the systems (e.g. engine control) will have to relearn afterwards which can give the impression that the car runs different than before if you don't know about that. It can take some days of driving until the car feels "like before" since it runs on some factory defaults at first. It's better to get a little power charger to jump start the battery and let the alternator do it's thing.
Ahh.. one day I was asked by a random bloke to help him jump start his car, thought I'd try and help but we just couldn't get it working. This could explain why tbf, I had a 1.6 diesel I4 and the mans car was a 2.5l I6, plus with all the fancy Merc electronics, no way was my car starting that Merc thinking about it now
@@justamanchimp Hi there Jon. I can't explain the science or engineering side of things although, if memory serves, it has something to do with the donor vehicle alternator power and/or battery capacity. Anyway, glad my post may have helped 👍.
@@justamanchimp The size of your engine isn't really a factor in it (with the exception of huge engines). As long as your battery is full enough to start the other car's engine (which it should since you drove right before) AND has the required cold cranking amp (CCA), it should work. Either your battery was really just too old (CCA drops with age) or there was a more serious damage on that guy's car beyond just a low battery. The latter is more likely since the CCA requirements between your 1.6 diesel l4 and his 2.5l l6 isn't that much different.
Interesting you had problems with the Yaris Hybrid; I run one of these. One of the things that does go flat is the battery in the key fob itself (the car normally warns you that this one is running low, at least the model with a full-on text display does - but not if its actually gone flat long term). They are CR2032 3V batteries - usually last a couple of years or so, depending on use, temperature etc. Useful to have some spares in hand if possible. I know there are already a few similar comments below; just a bit more detail for this type. I actually carry a smallish ‘jump start’ device, which has a Li-ion pack and other bits and pieces (it fits in my ‘glove box’). It’s rechargeable via a USB connection, and can also be used to top-up one’s ‘smartphone’ etc on your travels, and also has a pair of short 12V clamp cables like yours. Supposedly good for jump starting most domestic cars, including diesels. Of course, in the Yaris it does not actually ‘start’ the engine. It just replaces the built in 12V and switches on the high voltage (traction) battery connection relays which lurk under the back seats, and then the HV battery starts the engine and provides 12V via a converter. If that one’s flat, we’ve had it. No easy way of overcoming that, so it’s always a good plan to run the engine from time to time to keep it charged. Notwithstanding the fact that the traction battery is disconnected while parked, it will deteriorate over time, whereas the 12V is always in use for odds & ends and more likely to run down. Also, according to the manual, you can’t use the Yaris to ‘jump start’ anything else. The connection in the fuse box is not intended to cope with the heavy current used to start a diesel engine, like the one in the Golf. Years ago, when I ran other cars, I used to carry a long pair of cables like yours in older cars, and once or twice helped people out in car parks when they’d accidentally let their batteries discharge. I think that once the engine is running on the Yaris, the jump connection can be removed straight away, as the engine via it’s MG1 alternator is doing the job - maybe even feeding the Golf a bit depending on the relative voltage etc! From time to time, if not using my Yaris much (like yesterday), I top-up charge my 12V using a proper battery charger. In that case, the connection point is as you’ve shown, although any metalwork on the top of the HSD just alongside the HV fuse box works fine. When doing this, I usually do a ‘slow charge’ - only around 2 to 3 A, for a few hours, rather than a fast one, given the type of battery and where it is, under the back seat with not much air flow round it. Well presented, though. I guess there are minor differences with other hybrids, but they are bit weird compared with other types. Some of us do read the users manual - but I guess quite a few don’t until a fault occurs. Cheers, JK.
Hi John , I know it's a long time ago , but I read your explanation of the right and wrong ways to charge these new vehicles with great interest . Thank you for taking the time . You never know , I might one day be thanking you again , if something like that ever happens to me . And knowing my luck it probably will . Have a good day John .
Worth checking the owners manaul before jump starting using a donor vehicle. Some manufacturers specifically advise *against* jump starting with a donor vehicle. Potential voltage spikes have been known to damage increasingly complex ECUs. A li-ion jumper pack is an all round safer bet on cars made in the last 5 or so years. There's a reason the roadside asstance engineers (RAC/AA etc) use jumper packs.
Note that in the case of the toyota hybrids you don’t really « jumpstart them », you just need to provide enough power to make the main relay connect the hybrid battery. A set of 3 times 4.5volts batteries (the old flat ones) serially connected is sufficient for the task. note also that the keyless and go system cannot be left on while the car is sitting for more than 15 days (it’s noted in the manual) otherwise the 12v battery might deplete itself.
Toyota hybrids (I’ve had 2 Auris’s) do have a 12v battery it’s in the boot tucked away, RHS. The Yaris could have the same layout. I had a battery replaced after 3 years and Toyota would not replace under their 5 year warranty. £120 🙁. It is better to use the +ve terminal in the bonnet compartment though as you did to jumpstart. The boot won’t open if the central locking fails. One thing I do is press (in Park) the accelerator when the car has been jumped to make the petrol engine kick in. Then the alternator is charging the 12v battery. Leaving interior lights on overnight has been enough to flatten the battery I have found.
There is no alternator in the hybrids, they charge from the hybrid high voltage battery via a DC-DC converter. As long as the car is in ready mode the 12v battery is charging regardless of the engine running :).
Had this happen one morning last winter. Car was in the garage nose-first and the jump leads were in the boot. There wasn't enough power to unlock the doors, and the boot is also electric-only, so had to get in the front, climb over and put the back seat down to get into the boot (since this experience, I now keep them under the back seat instead). Because the car was in nose-first, the cables weren't long enough to reach, but if both cars have a set of cables you can daisy-chain them, just make sure the teeth on the ends you are linking together are touching on the side of the clips that have the cable attached, as usually the cable is only attached to one half of the clip.
If your car has an IBS module on the battery terminal, make sure you use the remote terminals to jump with/to or you can damage the IBS module. (bmw love this)
I dont know anything about cars, I followed this video to the letter and it worked perfectly. Thankyou for the time taken to make these videos for absoulte idiots like me!
I have a small homemade 2.0ah 12v lithium battery which I plug into a universal smart charger, it usually puts just enough in to kick it into life after a 20 minute wait xD. I've only ever needed it once but I make sure it stays charged using the same charger that can do a balance charge for lithium packs. It can charge Ni-cd, Pb, Nimh and lithium (3.2v, 3.6v, 3.7v). Its an RC enthusiast charger that also comes with an adaptor with clips to charge using a battery pack, its very handy to have.
The only thing that really matters is the last connection/first disconnect - as that is when the circuit is closed/broken, which is the time sparks could happen. Other thing is that one probably don't want to handle both cables at the same time if they're both connected to one battery - risk for short circuit if they come together or both touch the same, or connected, metal piece(s). Should both cars be old enough to have metal bumpers, make sure they're not touching, as that'd be an already made ground connection... So for negative ground cars I'd connect positive to positive (which car first truly doesn't matter) Then donor negative to recipient ground (in that order) Disconnect in reverse.
@@michaeltempsch5282 if the red charging lead is connected to the LIVE battery first, you have a possibility of a spark if you are careless with the other end of the lead. If it is the other way round you have a lead that is connected to a dead battery and chances of a spark are zero
@@Alan-xxxxxx Hmmm... thinking over the situation again, I take it you mean making an accidental short within the donor car? (Since the grounds aren't connected yet there's no issue with the other and around the recipient's engine bay...) Point taken, the donor's battery would have more energy for a 'local' short. But in essentially all jumps I've done the recipient hasn't been completely dead, just not 'enough there' to properly crank, and still capable to make (a less energetic) short. But yes, I can see a slight benefit in starting with the recipient positive.👍
Thanks for starting some decent maintenance videos. Not a lot are taught to do a few driving lesson hour on basic preventative maintenance on cars. So many my partner see who just drive the car till it stops.
Just a note on using the key to get in if the battery is dead, some cars the key will only unlock the door and you can only lock it with the central locking! so make sure you have a way to charge the battery before you leave it. Probably best to try it on your car now so you know.
I'm surprised that the Yaris IC Engine didn't start post jumping it, you would of thought it would needed to to boost the aux battery, even the main battery would of depleted. I do wonder if there is a way with these cars to force it to start. Alternatively just take it for a drive to get the charge back in.
Hi I can't open my car as the battery has gone but I can't open it with the key, it doesn't turn and feels like it's going to break any help will be great, thanks
Ashley, hope this doesn't sound a silly question but how did you get the battery of the hybrid car to go flat for the purposes of making this video? Or did it go flat anyway and that then gave you the idea to make this video? It's basically a "chicken or egg" question in terms of which came first, the flat battery or the idea to make a video about boosting a flat battery. Personally for boosting a car I use one of those compact battery li-ion battery booster packs with great success and it's an extra piece of mind to carry one in the boot, especially as I leave a car unused back in Canada for up to six months. That way, I don't have to rely on a donor or Good Samaritan. Those battery booster packs can hold their own charge for about 6 months and can be charged via the house mains at any time. I should really disconnect the battery altogether if not using my car for six months but can't be bothered to use the tools to do so. I guess I could have the battery connections converted for quick disconnect by hand or indeed a battery isolator switch. A few things to bear in mind if you jump start a car with a flat battery: You will likely have to reprogram all your radio presents and indeed, enter the radios security code. Always a good idea to make sure you have it when buying the car. Also, with some cars, the electric window anti pinch bounce back feature may have to be reprogrammed. And for automatic cars, it may take a few miles of driving for the auto box to relearn your driving habits and optimize the shift points. Although not the subject of this video, very glad to see your street (which as far as I can see is a cul de sac) has a 20 mph limit, as shown by repeater signs in the background. Wish all such residential "side" streets had a 20 mph limit but almost all that I see have a 30 mph limit just like througfare main road in a built up area. And yes I know, you should always adjust your speed accordingly regardless of the limit etc..but if we are going to have speed limits, they should at least be realistic and reflect the type of road they apply to.
Thanks for the comment. The Yaris just didn’t start that morning so I used the opportunity the do the video (couldn’t you tell there was little planning 😂) I’ve never had the need for carrying a booster pack but I have seen them in action. I’m sure the cold winters in Canada have a detrimental effect on the battery charge so having one makes sense. Keep safe, Ashley 👍🏼
And of course, despite being at one time, in the motor trade..... completely overlooked what once was obvious. Good interesting thread. Thanks to both of you 👍
Thank you for the reply Ashley. The other thing I am in possession of is a modern compact battery charger / conditioner which I find very useful, though of course one needs a power point to plug it in. As far as the Canadian winters, I am based in Vancouver on the west coast, where the climate is very similar to here in the Uk. Vancouver doesn't get the full blown Canadian winters like the rest of Canada and most of the time the only snow is up on the surrounding mountains. Of course, it only takes an inch or two of snow to make the city grind to a halt (just like the Uk) and the rest of Canada laughs at us. Fortunately also my car is garaged underground and under cover from the elements. One other little gadget that I purchased online and find very useful is a battery voltage / inside temperature readout. This simply plugs into the auxiliary socket (aka cigarette lighter) and I find the voltage readout very useful to give me some idea of how well charged my battery is, reading to one decimal place (e.g. 14.1 volts when running for example, though it will fluctuate). The inside temperature display part is also useful...and no, I don't allow myself to be distracted by it.
Is it worse for the battery to start the car up every week for a few minutes whilst there not going anywhere? As in stationary start. Or leaving them completely until you actually go out. My car has been sat for 5 weeks now as I have had no need to use the car. Just want people's opinions be nice I only passed my test on January 😂
I suggest a Google search along the lines of "how often should I start an unused car" (just did one myself). There are different opinions but it may give you some insight. It's been ages since I started mine and that needs to be addressed soon 🤔. Hope that helps out ok 👍 *edit* Just had a rethink on this - used to work in the Motor trade; my boss always tried to ensure that all of our stock was started at least once every fortnight and run until getting to optimal running temperature (10 minutes or so).
@@grahamnutt8958 I did do a Google search but it gives conflicting advice at times which isn't helpful. Thankyou for the advice I started my car up and let the engine get to running temp for a bit before switching the engine off again. Can't wait to go for a drive but need to stay home for the time being. Keep safe :)
@@181VICKSTER My pleasure, glad to help. One more thing to watch out for - your handbrake, even when taken out of "park" mode for the 1st time might still be partially engaged. Once the car has been driven that should sort itself out. I have been strongly advised to leave the car in gear (manual) or park (automatic) with the handbrake disengaged. This applies particularly to those of us who own older/Classic cars where a handbrake is much more likely to become permanently seized up 🤔. Stay safe yourself 👍👍
@@grahamnutt8958 makes perfect sense as my husband had an insignia with an electric handbrake that used to stick on when left for a while without driving. So he started to leave it in gear without the handbrake on. That stopped that issue :) mine is a manual so will also leave it in gear too. As I don't fancy having that problem knowing my luck it would be stuck on badly 😂
@@dalemr2 I would say it's because our garages are generally too small and always have been except for those in large houses. Therefore if you put a car in it, that's ALL you're gonna get in it. No space for your tools, bikes or anything else.
@@sammydemon666 I don't think that's the case in many, even people with driveways would rather park on the road, nevermind put the car in the garage. I've a new build house and can still fit a Lexus ls460 in there.
NiteOwl : yes that’s also a balid option . Whatever the choice , a jump starter kit is always handy if only to give another driver a helping hand ( i still remember those good old days when this was normal ) and having them in the garage is ok , but no use if you are out on the road . Ashley has covered two aspects All drivers should know , changing a wheel and jump starting flat battery . The only other praticle diy thing i still do often for others and the hardest depending on model of car and year is of course changing a headlight bulb ....
Can you make a vehicle on how to maintain your vehicle, cos I'll love that. But also can you show how to replace headlights please cos I love your channel hehehe
You didn't disconnect cables exactly opposite first you put pos on donor vehicle then pos on hybrid then neg on donor and neg on hybrid but then you disconnected negative on hybrid then neg on donor then pos on hybrid and pos on donor but probably no harm done
i think a handful of them belong to the rest of his family, like the m3 is his wife's, the Mercedes i think is his own auto and the Volkswagon is definitely his son's. Its a large house hold
I'm pretty sure that you can only bump start manual transmission. Automatic boxes - it just doesn't work: something to do with how the power is transferred but not sure of the best way to explain. 👍
@@grahamnutt8958 An auto is interlocked, so that it will only start in Park or Neutral. So it isn't possible to start while in Drive. If no interlocking and you started it in Drive, it would take off on you! Hence why it is interlocked,
You cannot, or rather should not, give a jump start from a hybrid lead battery. The battery is rather small in capacity and power because all it is used for is to check all systems at startup. When everything is a-OK just then it switches on the big high voltage battery on with a relay. The electric motors that drive the car and start the engine when needed is only fed by the HV battery, the little lead battery is dormant while driving and charged by the DC-DC converter from the HV battery. The small lead battery in a Toyota hybrid is really just for the startup and for emergency purposes (hazard lights), therefore it is not capable or rather no designed to start up any motor that needs a high cranking amperage. What would be possible is to start another hybrid.
Ferenc Toth M3 - wife’s car Black BM - Manual instructor vehicle Grey Merc - Auto instructor vehicle Yaris - previous instructor car prior to the last BMW (the 1 series) Golf - son Lukes car He’s mentioned these / we’ve seen these in previous videos 👍
I don't think the average Joe should be jump starting a car full stop. I've experience car batteries exploding through trying to recharge and then use a battery which was well beyond serviceable condition, we're talking about chunks of plastic, chunks of lead, and a whole load of acid, flying off in all directions. I've also seen what happens when a jump lead comes loose at the dead car side and shorts out the donor battery, that's upto 600 amps until it fries the cable or the battery goes up. Considering all the things that people won't/shouldn't do because it's "dangerous", it's shocking how many people think nothing of repeatedly jump started a knackered battery rather than just getting a new one.
No, it's connected last to ground (and disconnected first) so that any potential sparks happen away from the battery that might have outgassed hydrogen gas, which mixed with air/oxygen is explosive. Should you happen to have an old car with positive ground you need to jump start, you should connect the cable from donor positive to ground on car to start last.
Why is your car blocking the pavement? Does it have more rights than disabled folks or parents with young kids so forcing them onto the road?. Love your work but this seems to be a terrible example.
9 seconds in - it looks like a pavement to me - but it is video and I don't know the lay out but it seems your car is overhanging the drive on to the pavement - even if it is lowered it is still pavement.
Just a tip from my father ( a retired machanic now) gave me when working on cars. NEVER stand in front or behind a car when some else starts it esp when parked as such these, if it`s in gear and the person starting is not in the car you are going to get crushed b4 they stop it. It has saved me a couple of times.
M00pp0lpppp
Just a warning...you should always attach the dead car first in the sequence (red dead, red donor, black dead ground, then black donor terminal). If there is an issue with fuse or there is a short (or you hooked it up wrong), then there is less likely that you are touching the dead car's frame and leading to a possible shock/burn (as you need to find a grounding point on the dead car, your hands may be in a bad location, versus the donor, where the jumps are directly on the battery and the fuse box should protect you from ground fault).
Ditto,
In Toyota Hybrid cars you don't actually need a ton of power, the Hybrid battery is still charged, just the lead battery is dead. Toyota hybrids disconnect the high voltage battery when you turn it off, so you need to supply enough voltage to startup the system ( ready light ) and then the DC-DC converter kicks in and charges the lead battery from the high voltage battery and even starts the engine if needed.
Be careful if one car has another voltage ( 24 V or even 48 V ) you wreck the other cars electronics if you try hook it up.
My battery ran out and I needed to get my kid to school. I haven’t jumped a car in a decade - my husband normally dies it if necessary, but he’s gone at the moment and I totally did it myself!! Thank you sooooo much for your tutorial!
One thing I would add is always wind a window down on both vehicles first. Normally you can unless it’s dead flat. That way you never will be locked out. Excellent videos thanks.
You'd think this would be in the show me tell me part of the test. So many times I've seen people jump starting a car via connecting battery terminals, and I've even seen them do it in the wrong way. Quite a bright spark when you see it happen from a good 1/4 mile away at night.
Tq bro... i managed to start my broken down hibrid car... very useful info... Tq for sharing
My little boy, Jackson (4) heard your voice and gave my phone a cuddle and wants you to be his friend 😂. He loves watching cars with Daddy and watches loss of your videos with me (even though I’m sure he doesn’t follow it all 🙈)
Definitely worth knowing how to jump start a vehicle, especially at this particular time.
However, much as I appreciate that a Hybrid is different to the "normal" petrol or diesel there are points I wish to add here:
1) Although extremely unlikely now, there are a few vehicles remaining that have a *positive* earth. That makes them incompatible in this instance as most are *negative*. Damage could result here.
2) Beware of those cars where the battery is mounted in the boot 😆 - mine happens to be one of them.
3) Based on my general knowledge and experience I would always advise that the donor car is of a greater engine size than recipient vehicle (if like for like i.e. petrol to petrol or diesel to diesel). Also it is important to note that a diesel does require significantly more juice to "crank" than a petrol so you would almost certainly need a significantly larger petrol donor/ diesel recipient.
A recent case in point - a 1.0 litre petrol donor attempted to jump a 2.5 litre diesel. Quite simply put it just didn't work.
Worst case scenario is just simply to remove the battery and then trickle charge for 24 hours if you have this option.
Hope this helps. Thanks for the 2nd upload today Ashley. Unexpected 👍
If possible don't remove the battery if you don't really have to. It is likely some of the systems (e.g. engine control) will have to relearn afterwards which can give the impression that the car runs different than before if you don't know about that. It can take some days of driving until the car feels "like before" since it runs on some factory defaults at first. It's better to get a little power charger to jump start the battery and let the alternator do it's thing.
Ahh.. one day I was asked by a random bloke to help him jump start his car, thought I'd try and help but we just couldn't get it working. This could explain why tbf, I had a 1.6 diesel I4 and the mans car was a 2.5l I6, plus with all the fancy Merc electronics, no way was my car starting that Merc thinking about it now
@@justamanchimp Hi there Jon. I can't explain the science or engineering side of things although, if memory serves, it has something to do with the donor vehicle alternator power and/or battery capacity. Anyway, glad my post may have helped 👍.
@@grahamnutt8958 Ahh I see and yeah appreciate it
@@justamanchimp The size of your engine isn't really a factor in it (with the exception of huge engines). As long as your battery is full enough to start the other car's engine (which it should since you drove right before) AND has the required cold cranking amp (CCA), it should work. Either your battery was really just too old (CCA drops with age) or there was a more serious damage on that guy's car beyond just a low battery. The latter is more likely since the CCA requirements between your 1.6 diesel l4 and his 2.5l l6 isn't that much different.
Interesting you had problems with the Yaris Hybrid; I run one of these. One of the things that does go flat is the battery in the key fob itself (the car normally warns you that this one is running low, at least the model with a full-on text display does - but not if its actually gone flat long term). They are CR2032 3V batteries - usually last a couple of years or so, depending on use, temperature etc. Useful to have some spares in hand if possible.
I know there are already a few similar comments below; just a bit more detail for this type.
I actually carry a smallish ‘jump start’ device, which has a Li-ion pack and other bits and pieces (it fits in my ‘glove box’). It’s rechargeable via a USB connection, and can also be used to top-up one’s ‘smartphone’ etc on your travels, and also has a pair of short 12V clamp cables like yours. Supposedly good for jump starting most domestic cars, including diesels. Of course, in the Yaris it does not actually ‘start’ the engine. It just replaces the built in 12V and switches on the high voltage (traction) battery connection relays which lurk under the back seats, and then the HV battery starts the engine and provides 12V via a converter. If that one’s flat, we’ve had it. No easy way of overcoming that, so it’s always a good plan to run the engine from time to time to keep it charged. Notwithstanding the fact that the traction battery is disconnected while parked, it will deteriorate over time, whereas the 12V is always in use for odds & ends and more likely to run down.
Also, according to the manual, you can’t use the Yaris to ‘jump start’ anything else. The connection in the fuse box is not intended to cope with the heavy current used to start a diesel engine, like the one in the Golf. Years ago, when I ran other cars, I used to carry a long pair of cables like yours in older cars, and once or twice helped people out in car parks when they’d accidentally let their batteries discharge.
I think that once the engine is running on the Yaris, the jump connection can be removed straight away, as the engine via it’s MG1 alternator is doing the job - maybe even feeding the Golf a bit depending on the relative voltage etc!
From time to time, if not using my Yaris much (like yesterday), I top-up charge my 12V using a proper battery charger. In that case, the connection point is as you’ve shown, although any metalwork on the top of the HSD just alongside the HV fuse box works fine. When doing this, I usually do a ‘slow charge’ - only around 2 to 3 A, for a few hours, rather than a fast one, given the type of battery and where it is, under the back seat with not much air flow round it.
Well presented, though. I guess there are minor differences with other hybrids, but they are bit weird compared with other types. Some of us do read the users manual - but I guess quite a few don’t until a fault occurs.
Cheers, JK.
Hi John ,
I know it's a long time ago , but I read your explanation of the right and wrong ways to charge these new vehicles with great interest .
Thank you for taking the time .
You never know , I might one day be thanking you again , if something like that ever happens to me .
And knowing my luck it probably will .
Have a good day John .
A very helpful reply. Thank you
Worth checking the owners manaul before jump starting using a donor vehicle. Some manufacturers specifically advise *against* jump starting with a donor vehicle. Potential voltage spikes have been known to damage increasingly complex ECUs. A li-ion jumper pack is an all round safer bet on cars made in the last 5 or so years. There's a reason the roadside asstance engineers (RAC/AA etc) use jumper packs.
Agree with your comment
Note that in the case of the toyota hybrids you don’t really « jumpstart them », you just need to provide enough power to make the main relay connect the hybrid battery. A set of 3 times 4.5volts batteries (the old flat ones) serially connected is sufficient for the task. note also that the keyless and go system cannot be left on while the car is sitting for more than 15 days (it’s noted in the manual) otherwise the 12v battery might deplete itself.
Toyota hybrids (I’ve had 2 Auris’s) do have a 12v battery it’s in the boot tucked away, RHS. The Yaris could have the same layout. I had a battery replaced after 3 years and Toyota would not replace under their 5 year warranty. £120 🙁. It is better to use the +ve terminal in the bonnet compartment though as you did to jumpstart. The boot won’t open if the central locking fails. One thing I do is press (in Park) the accelerator when the car has been jumped to make the petrol engine kick in. Then the alternator is charging the 12v battery. Leaving interior lights on overnight has been enough to flatten the battery I have found.
There is no alternator in the hybrids, they charge from the hybrid high voltage battery via a DC-DC converter. As long as the car is in ready mode the 12v battery is charging regardless of the engine running :).
Alistair Mackenzie thanks for that.
Had this happen one morning last winter. Car was in the garage nose-first and the jump leads were in the boot. There wasn't enough power to unlock the doors, and the boot is also electric-only, so had to get in the front, climb over and put the back seat down to get into the boot (since this experience, I now keep them under the back seat instead). Because the car was in nose-first, the cables weren't long enough to reach, but if both cars have a set of cables you can daisy-chain them, just make sure the teeth on the ends you are linking together are touching on the side of the clips that have the cable attached, as usually the cable is only attached to one half of the clip.
If your car has an IBS module on the battery terminal, make sure you use the remote terminals to jump with/to or you can damage the IBS module. (bmw love this)
I dont know anything about cars, I followed this video to the letter and it worked perfectly. Thankyou for the time taken to make these videos for absoulte idiots like me!
Don’t put yourself down Jess! You did it 👏
That red M3 is gorgeous, exactly the model and year that I want. You don't really see them in that color too, love it!
I have a small homemade 2.0ah 12v lithium battery which I plug into a universal smart charger, it usually puts just enough in to kick it into life after a 20 minute wait xD. I've only ever needed it once but I make sure it stays charged using the same charger that can do a balance charge for lithium packs. It can charge Ni-cd, Pb, Nimh and lithium (3.2v, 3.6v, 3.7v). Its an RC enthusiast charger that also comes with an adaptor with clips to charge using a battery pack, its very handy to have.
You should connect the red charging lead to the DEAD battery first and then to the live one second.
The only thing that really matters is the last connection/first disconnect - as that is when the circuit is closed/broken, which is the time sparks could happen.
Other thing is that one probably don't want to handle both cables at the same time if they're both connected to one battery - risk for short circuit if they come together or both touch the same, or connected, metal piece(s).
Should both cars be old enough to have metal bumpers, make sure they're not touching, as that'd be an already made ground connection...
So for negative ground cars I'd connect positive to positive (which car first truly doesn't matter)
Then donor negative to recipient ground (in that order)
Disconnect in reverse.
@@michaeltempsch5282 if the red charging lead is connected to the LIVE battery first, you have a possibility of a spark if you are careless with the other end of the lead. If it is the other way round you have a lead that is connected to a dead battery and chances of a spark are zero
@@Alan-xxxxxx Hmmm... thinking over the situation again, I take it you mean making an accidental short within the donor car? (Since the grounds aren't connected yet there's no issue with the other and around the recipient's engine bay...)
Point taken, the donor's battery would have more energy for a 'local' short. But in essentially all jumps I've done the recipient hasn't been completely dead, just not 'enough there' to properly crank, and still capable to make (a less energetic) short. But yes, I can see a slight benefit in starting with the recipient positive.👍
Thanks for starting some decent maintenance videos. Not a lot are taught to do a few driving lesson hour on basic preventative maintenance on cars. So many my partner see who just drive the car till it stops.
Just a note on using the key to get in if the battery is dead, some cars the key will only unlock the door and you can only lock it with the central locking! so make sure you have a way to charge the battery before you leave it. Probably best to try it on your car now so you know.
If that is is true then that is the most stupid design I heard of. 🤦♂️
I'm surprised that the Yaris IC Engine didn't start post jumping it, you would of thought it would needed to to boost the aux battery, even the main battery would of depleted. I do wonder if there is a way with these cars to force it to start. Alternatively just take it for a drive to get the charge back in.
In true modern style everything in the garage..., apart from a car!
Hi I can't open my car as the battery has gone but I can't open it with the key, it doesn't turn and feels like it's going to break any help will be great, thanks
Ashley, hope this doesn't sound a silly question but how did you get the battery of the hybrid car to go flat for the purposes of making this video? Or did it go flat anyway and that then gave you the idea to make this video? It's basically a "chicken or egg" question in terms of which came first, the flat battery or the idea to make a video about boosting a flat battery.
Personally for boosting a car I use one of those compact battery li-ion battery booster packs with great success and it's an extra piece of mind to carry one in the boot, especially as I leave a car unused back in Canada for up to six months. That way, I don't have to rely on a donor or Good Samaritan. Those battery booster packs can hold their own charge for about 6 months and can be charged via the house mains at any time. I should really disconnect the battery altogether if not using my car for six months but can't be bothered to use the tools to do so. I guess I could have the battery connections converted for quick disconnect by hand or indeed a battery isolator switch.
A few things to bear in mind if you jump start a car with a flat battery: You will likely have to reprogram all your radio presents and indeed, enter the radios security code. Always a good idea to make sure you have it when buying the car. Also, with some cars, the electric window anti pinch bounce back feature may have to be reprogrammed. And for automatic cars, it may take a few miles of driving for the auto box to relearn your driving habits and optimize the shift points.
Although not the subject of this video, very glad to see your street (which as far as I can see is a cul de sac) has a 20 mph limit, as shown by repeater signs in the background. Wish all such residential "side" streets had a 20 mph limit but almost all that I see have a 30 mph limit just like througfare main road in a built up area. And yes I know, you should always adjust your speed accordingly regardless of the limit etc..but if we are going to have speed limits, they should at least be realistic and reflect the type of road they apply to.
Thanks for the comment. The Yaris just didn’t start that morning so I used the opportunity the do the video (couldn’t you tell there was little planning 😂) I’ve never had the need for carrying a booster pack but I have seen them in action. I’m sure the cold winters in Canada have a detrimental effect on the battery charge so having one makes sense. Keep safe, Ashley 👍🏼
And of course, despite being at one time, in the motor trade..... completely overlooked what once was obvious.
Good interesting thread.
Thanks to both of you 👍
Thank you for the reply Ashley. The other thing I am in possession of is a modern compact battery charger / conditioner which I find very useful, though of course one needs a power point to plug it in.
As far as the Canadian winters, I am based in Vancouver on the west coast, where the climate is very similar to here in the Uk. Vancouver doesn't get the full blown Canadian winters like the rest of Canada and most of the time the only snow is up on the surrounding mountains. Of course, it only takes an inch or two of snow to make the city grind to a halt (just like the Uk) and the rest of Canada laughs at us.
Fortunately also my car is garaged underground and under cover from the elements.
One other little gadget that I purchased online and find very useful is a battery voltage / inside temperature readout. This simply plugs into the auxiliary socket (aka cigarette lighter) and I find the voltage readout very useful to give me some idea of how well charged my battery is, reading to one decimal place (e.g. 14.1 volts when running for example, though it will fluctuate). The inside temperature display part is also useful...and no, I don't allow myself to be distracted by it.
I always keep my jump leads in the boot. They are useless in your garage if you need them when not at home.
Is it worse for the battery to start the car up every week for a few minutes whilst there not going anywhere? As in stationary start. Or leaving them completely until you actually go out. My car has been sat for 5 weeks now as I have had no need to use the car. Just want people's opinions be nice I only passed my test on January 😂
I suggest a Google search along the lines of "how often should I start an unused car" (just did one myself). There are different opinions but it may give you some insight. It's been ages since I started mine and that needs to be addressed soon 🤔. Hope that helps out ok 👍
*edit* Just had a rethink on this - used to work in the Motor trade; my boss always tried to ensure that all of our stock was started at least once every fortnight and run until getting to optimal running temperature (10 minutes or so).
@@grahamnutt8958 I did do a Google search but it gives conflicting advice at times which isn't helpful. Thankyou for the advice I started my car up and let the engine get to running temp for a bit before switching the engine off again. Can't wait to go for a drive but need to stay home for the time being. Keep safe :)
@@181VICKSTER My pleasure, glad to help. One more thing to watch out for - your handbrake, even when taken out of "park" mode for the 1st time might still be partially engaged. Once the car has been driven that should sort itself out. I have been strongly advised to leave the car in gear (manual) or park (automatic) with the handbrake disengaged. This applies particularly to those of us who own older/Classic cars where a handbrake is much more likely to become permanently seized up 🤔.
Stay safe yourself 👍👍
@@grahamnutt8958 makes perfect sense as my husband had an insignia with an electric handbrake that used to stick on when left for a while without driving. So he started to leave it in gear without the handbrake on. That stopped that issue :) mine is a manual so will also leave it in gear too. As I don't fancy having that problem knowing my luck it would be stuck on badly 😂
How do you jump start hybrids that have no 12volt starters??
Nice and clear..Thanks
Saved me towing the car
You know what funny about UK people, they have a garage but never use it for the car but use it for storage. haha
Yep because the majority are retarded
@@dalemr2 I would say it's because our garages are generally too small and always have been except for those in large houses. Therefore if you put a car in it, that's ALL you're gonna get in it. No space for your tools, bikes or anything else.
@@sammydemon666 Or in fact no space to actually get out of the car! unless you go out the back/Boot/Trunk. Stupid House builders.
@@sammydemon666 I don't think that's the case in many, even people with driveways would rather park on the road, nevermind put the car in the garage. I've a new build house and can still fit a Lexus ls460 in there.
If you do it wrong will it Damage the car extremely or ?
Yes it can blow your computer, they cost thousands to fix. I would recommend a jump starter instead of cables, they are a lot harder to screw up.
Brilliant tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Always keep a set of jumper cables in the boot alongside the spare wheel kit ..
I slightly disagree, keep a jumpstarter instead and make sure it's lithium iron battery too. Jumpstarter are safer for new cars and no need for donor
NiteOwl : yes that’s also a balid option . Whatever the choice , a jump starter kit is always handy if only to give another driver a helping hand ( i still remember those good old days when this was normal ) and having them in the garage is ok , but no use if you are out on the road .
Ashley has covered two aspects All drivers should know , changing a wheel and jump starting flat battery . The only other praticle diy thing i still do often for others and the hardest depending on model of car and year is of course changing a headlight bulb ....
@@lordlucan7655 i completely agree, its easy enough to flatten your battery and you should have something to get you out of trouble.
Can you make a vehicle on how to maintain your vehicle, cos I'll love that. But also can you show how to replace headlights please cos I love your channel hehehe
You didn't disconnect cables exactly opposite first you put pos on donor vehicle then pos on hybrid then neg on donor and neg on hybrid but then you disconnected negative on hybrid then neg on donor then pos on hybrid and pos on donor but probably no harm done
Love these videos how many cars do you have and would you do a video on them?
i think a handful of them belong to the rest of his family, like the m3 is his wife's, the Mercedes i think is his own auto and the Volkswagon is definitely his son's. Its a large house hold
I enjoyed the delayed intro on this upload.
Is bump starting bad for car! Can you bump start an auto?
I'm pretty sure that you can only bump start manual transmission. Automatic boxes - it just doesn't work: something to do with how the power is transferred but not sure of the best way to explain. 👍
@@grahamnutt8958 An auto is interlocked, so that it will only start in Park or Neutral. So it isn't possible to start while in Drive.
If no interlocking and you started it in Drive, it would take off on you! Hence why it is interlocked,
Does the M3 have a different exhaust to standard?
Yep 👍🏼
Can you jump start from the hybrid?
Yes, but the setup is more complex and requires a special plug.
I wouldn't though
You cannot, or rather should not, give a jump start from a hybrid lead battery. The battery is rather small in capacity and power because all it is used for is to check all systems at startup. When everything is a-OK just then it switches on the big high voltage battery on with a relay. The electric motors that drive the car and start the engine when needed is only fed by the HV battery, the little lead battery is dormant while driving and charged by the DC-DC converter from the HV battery. The small lead battery in a Toyota hybrid is really just for the startup and for emergency purposes (hazard lights), therefore it is not capable or rather no designed to start up any motor that needs a high cranking amperage. What would be possible is to start another hybrid.
Omg this just happened to my car as well, thanks for the vid x
Damn .. how many car is in ir household?? Red BMW
Black bmw which is urs
Grey Mercedes I believe that's ur auto
And a little Toyota
And golf
Ferenc Toth
M3 - wife’s car
Black BM - Manual instructor vehicle
Grey Merc - Auto instructor vehicle
Yaris - previous instructor car prior to the last BMW (the 1 series)
Golf - son Lukes car
He’s mentioned these / we’ve seen these in previous videos 👍
@@ryanwalker6849 oh I see I see. The new black BMW is awesome. Wish I was learning on it lol 👍🏻
I know! Lucky enough to have a 3 series now (F30 not G20) but certainly did not get to learn in one!!
Thankyou
How tall are you bro ?
A proper set of jump leads those.
I don't think the average Joe should be jump starting a car full stop.
I've experience car batteries exploding through trying to recharge and then use a battery which was well beyond serviceable condition, we're talking about chunks of plastic, chunks of lead, and a whole load of acid, flying off in all directions.
I've also seen what happens when a jump lead comes loose at the dead car side and shorts out the donor battery, that's upto 600 amps until it fries the cable or the battery goes up.
Considering all the things that people won't/shouldn't do because it's "dangerous", it's shocking how many people think nothing of repeatedly jump started a knackered battery rather than just getting a new one.
Nice job ash of blocking the pavement 👍 really considerate of ya pal
Considering that bit of pavement is a dead end I don’t anticipate anybody being put out by the cars being parked there
How many cars do you own 😂😂😂
Jack liu probably too many 😂
Yes
big family
Nice helpful video but should we be worried about the selection of car license plates on your shelf at 1:38 :)
ALWAYS connect the negative cable first!!
No, it's connected last to ground (and disconnected first) so that any potential sparks happen away from the battery that might have outgassed hydrogen gas, which mixed with air/oxygen is explosive.
Should you happen to have an old car with positive ground you need to jump start, you should connect the cable from donor positive to ground on car to start last.
Fair enough. Theres me thinking, your videos are good. But im a wee bit angry at your blatent,at basics first. jump start
Is he freakin hot or what??? Come on!
Half of the video is wasted
Why is your car blocking the pavement? Does it have more rights than disabled folks or parents with young kids so forcing them onto the road?. Love your work but this seems to be a terrible example.
There is no pavement where the car is parked. Did you see any or was it an assumption?
9 seconds in - it looks like a pavement to me - but it is video and I don't know the lay out but it seems your car is overhanging the drive on to the pavement - even if it is lowered it is still pavement.