1. Spacing is so important - 0:51 2. Lead the eye - 2:58 3. You don't need wide angle for foreground - 4:43 4. Matching shapes in images - 5:22 5. Balance is really important - 8:01 6. Light changes - 9:08 7. Simplicity always wins - 10:35
Nigel, you are quickly turning into one of my favorite photographers. I absolutely love your ability to look at one of your own photos and say "yeah that really wasn't the best".
my #1 tip that leveled me up beyond anything else was spending a lot of time studying and practicing composition - as you said balance is key, repeating patterns, leading lines, all of those things together to make an image pop
I've been following your youtube for a long time, and the "simplicity" tip has really resonated with me. I've tried to consciously think about that in all my photos. It also pairs nicely with removing distracting elements around the edges.
Good stuff. I appreciate seeing images from the same location where we can see what works and what does not. Shows that simple is better. Also, I thought your image was 50mm and not 35mm. I like that you had us guessing. “Normal” focal lengths are underrated and I’m glad you mentioned that this was not ultra wide, or zoom.
I'm a big fan of how you either orient more portrait shots or crop to a non-standard aspect ratio. Your eye for the best view is excellent, as seen with the 3 iceberg shots early in the video. It will certainly help me in taking that few extra moments in framing and organizing my photos. Thanks again for you viedos.
As someone that’s relatively new to landscape photography I’d like to say thanks for the tips! It gives me an idea of what to look for when composing an image.
Both you, Mads and Thomas have made lots of videos with tips, but luckily this one stands out in a positive way. It's not just about repetition (it must also be difficult to constantly have to come up with new topics), but good useful tips that can be taken with you out into the countryside, the forest or into the city if you're into architecture photography. All in all a really good video.
Greetings : Great tips Nigel ! Im still learning , photography never gets boring . I love listening and watching your channel ! Ive learned a lot from you . You're a positive teacher !
Many thanks! It's important to pay attention to the Hipergocal distance when using a foreground element. At looking an gorgeous photo, what is closer must be sharp.
As with all things photography, it’s amazing how as individuals, we perceive things differently in the moment. At 11:30, the side by side images of The Roaches, is a perfect example for me. While I find the left side image overall more pleasing, during my initial observation of right side image, my eye was immediately grabbed by the strength of the wall entering from the left, that I didn’t even take notice of the heather in the foreground. The framing of the image on the left, overall, has as much to do with its pleasing composition as its leading line. The spacing of the outcropping relative to the horizon line gives it slightly more room and a less cluttered feel, and the additional sky (which also creates implied lines entering from the upper corners) bring so much to the image, in addition to the path. As always, your videos are thought provoking, and I come away with additional perspective and insight on how to improve my composition. If I could only apply it in the field… Many thanks Mr. Danson
Thanks Nigel, i found this video to be very helpful. I sometimes look at my images and are not quite sure why they don't work. Now I have some insight as to how I can improve.
Although not technically a "tip", I think inspiration is one of the greatest tools to use in improving your photography. Your new composition e-book is a great example. I don't shoot a lot of landscapes where I live but do more intimate landscapes and macro. The tips and ideas in your e-book can equally apply to the photography I love doing plus the photos are damn inspirational!
Love it. I bought the eBook and must say it is amazing and worth every penny. Not only are the images stunning, they illustrate the concepts of this video extremely well. Highly recommended!
I get the feeling that many beginners will struggle with space initially. First, they don't zoom enough, and when they're told to fill the frame, they go in too far and things are near the edge or worse yet, cropped off (like tree branches, although there are some commpositon, particularly in a forest with a lot of trees, where you may intentionally crop off parts of trees to have a more simplified or intimate forest/woodland scene). 2:47 Vastness, emptiness, or even isolation.... I agree on the wide angle shots... where you don't need a WA lens to get foregrounds. In fact, I used to do that a lot, and while it works for some compositions, a lot of what I was shooting, like mountains, with a lake in front perhaps with some rocks or grass in the immedaite foreground (lake would be in the mid-ground) I found that shooting ultra wide lost the scene a bit, and that I really like the compression, even what you can get a 35mm versus say 14mm or 16mm. And I think this is a bit misconception especially for new beginner photographers, that you have to go wide if you want to include a foreground element. IN some respects, I don't like the ultra-wide look for some foreground elements because it can distort them a bit too much. Some of this has to do with shooting low versus higher-up obviously, but it's gotten to a point where I am sort of bored with ultra-wide landscape photography myself, and find myself often times shooting between 30mm upwards of 100mm in most cases (100mm when I want to really isolate something, like a tree or part of a scene- like the Hoodoos at Bryce Canyon NP). I actually am somewhat glad that Ie settled more on the 30mm to 100mm range for most of my recent shooting because while I do bring my Z 14-30 with me, I find that most of the time, I'm using my 24-120 lens instead as it's so versatile and I really don't have to worry about changing lenses and can focus on finding compositions and shooting. Of course I will use the 14-30 from time to time, but less now than I used to. The best advice I can give new photographers would to be to just go out (learn about basic composition and then go out and shoot). Take a lot of pictures, try different angles. Be thoughtful about your compositions but try different angles. If you're using a tripod, resist the temptation to put it down and use it right away. Compose some compositions without even bothering with the tripd, because that will dictate where the tripod needs to go (the tripod is only a support tool). Take a lot of photos (different angles, perspectives, focal lengths, apertures, etc). If you're shooting digital, this is easy as practically free. Don't delete in camera (review on the computer first; and I say this for multiple reasons -- partially because the LCD?EVF is hard to judge things like critical sharpness, although it's good enough to check composition and overall exposure, and also because I've found that deleting a lot from the card can lead to card issues -- nothing permanent but possible corruption -- over time).
You are helping with your advices, and I love your spirit and commitment to bring the information to those who need it. Hat for that. I just hope some tips for street photography lol.
Two tips I would give are "What is the subject of the photo?" - concentrate on that and bringing it out. The other is to be willing to move around, your feet are one of your best tools.
The thing with the wide angle is something I’ve been learning the hard way right now in New Zealand and Australia. Been using 28-50mm to get great foregrounds. One year ago I would have only shot at 14-16mm!
Most of what you call "ruined shots" look amazing to me 😂 From this video I learned that you have to be critical of your shots, even when they seem beautiful at first glance... there is probably a way to improve them!
Great video and e-book. I put the tips on focus/exposure stacking as well as overall composition into practise in Little Langdale last week and definitely got some keepers. Many thanks!
Interesting video Nigel. I think a lot of us see a shot and take it without balancing it out, i know I do. I think it's called slow down and take your time lol. Look forward to the next one.
Great tips. How much of these are the result of conscious thought and planning and how much are becoming tuned in to to scenes that include these elements? My sense is it’s the latter for my photography.
I guessed 35mm when you asked focal length. Even though it might appear wider - easy to be fooled by focal length. Took me many years to work out that you don’t need to use wide angle lenses for landscape
Great video indeed! I would still add technically, that aperture (and focus of course)is also super important - as a beginner, I many times took great photos (or so I thought), but later realized that I had done so at F4 so shots came out too blurry etc.
Simplicity is at the heart of the success of many great artists.JMW Turner's best paintings achieved this although he was capable of over complicating it and adding too many distracting elements. Punch magazine lampooned him with a title something like "Shipwreck, a typhoon with a Simoon off the maelstrom of Norway". The antithesis of a simple calm image such as Norham Castle
All good tips Nigel, but my top tip would be break the mould. Experiment and don't be a slave to the way you always shoot and the subject matter you tend to shoot. Don't just copy others. Play around with different crops. Shoot monochrome, partial colour as well as colour. Shoot close-ups and more intimate landscapes and look for abstraction in nature. Try ICM. Look for subject matter that is ordinarily overlooked.
Nigel been basically using your videos as my forefront of knowledge for learning and ive been out took some photos and im happy with them except in some areas there are these kind of black splodges you can only see when zooming in on lr or ps. Any idea what it is and how to sort it out. I have a canon r8 used the standard kit lens 24-50mm and i focus stacked and exposure bracketted aswell. Any feed back would be helpfull
It goes along with composition but height is very important. Most start with the eye-level shot but to change the fore, mid, and background weight and modify them to focus on the best elements is super important. It can drastically alter the size, shape, and sometimes even the colors in the photo. Experiment!
An excellent thought provoking video Nigel, thank you for the insightful comments into the ‘why and how’ you decide in choosing a great image. At 11:22-ish, you commented about spotting out some little icebergs to make it a more simple image. Being mindful of photoshop ai, my question to this is, when is it ok and when not to make a simplified image?
The ebook is amazing. Now is just a question of taking all the tips into consideration when we are on the field and that is not that easy :) Nigel, I have a question, well more of a request. Can you one of these days do a video where you show your process of preparing a photo for printing? Namely, to be printed on matte paper? When we soft proof for a mate paper, all that beautiful contrast, all those deep blacks simply vanish and sometimes is very difficult to bring it back to be printed on a mate paper. Usually, I use Curves to bring that contract but, all the shadows get muddy and the highlights sometimes get blown out, and it really doesn't matter if it's a color or black & white photo. I would love to see your process on preparing a "muddy" image for mate printing. Thanks
Go out and shoot with a 35mm or 40mm prime, or even set your zoom lens to a set focal length and don't change it. Makes you think more about composition because you can't zoom in and out. Thank you. You were quick to change the thumb nail this morning too.
I said 35mm - honest ! @4:35 35mm is currently my favourite focal distance after I broke my wide angle today (classic camera and lens sliding off the tripod). 🙃
Hi Nigel Love your videos and the bundle deal looked great so I have just purchased. I don't know if its an American thing or not but bloody hell, how many pop ups or offers to upgrade to a better package or add this or add that are there?! I was offered 5 upgrades, one after the other after each time I clicked the option ( in the smallest font on the page) 'no thank you'. I have the main package now but hope I'm not going to be bombarded with ads now. I know they are running a business but its very annoying and puts me off buying more. Sorry for rant lol
@NigelDanson perhaps as Brits we are not as used to ' do you want to go large on that meal' upsell. I'm very tempted with your ebook, if they haven't caught me with more special upgrade offers lol
Hi Nigel....I run a photography group for my local U3A in here on Teesside and I've started to show them some of your videos to close our meetings. Here's the thing. my photography group is for those whose photography is restricted to smartphones....please don't faint! How about some videos on the use of smartphones. Of course, the principles of photography apply whatever camera you happen to have in your hand (or on a tripod...even for smartphones), but some smartphone-specific advice would be great. Thanks for all that you give to us....John D
hahahaha I guessed the 35mm... I very often narrow my wide angle to 35, since really wide (20, 16, etc...) don't come around so often. Also, it could be great to print the book. Just an idea ;) (or some tip about how to print it)
I really struggle with composition. I watch lots of videos, I plan places to go, I practice, I try to follow the advice, but when I get home and look at the results, I am always disappointed. Maybe some of us just don't have the eye for landscape.
Don’t give up. I don’t have what you would call a natural eye, but over the years I have managed to learn. I have now got some images which I’ve had very positive feedback. Keep shooting, take note what works / doesn’t work and return at different time of day/year/lighting- it helped me
@@keithmagee4450 Thanks Keith. I am retiring at the end of the year, and spending more time practicing my photography is one of my top priorities, second only to my health. Hopefully having the time will yield positive results!
Last tip: Instead of buying that pro level glass, instead just buy an airfare to your closest rugged mountain/volcano/grassland. Take a million shots, both focus and exposure bracketed, and then make us all envious with your 'superior composition skills'
@@ruthwilson9449 sorry, its just a concept of money. INSTEAD of endlessly pouring over reviews/tutorials, use that next purchase money to go to faroe islands, iceland or patagonia argentina.
@@ruthwilson9449he doesn’t, but it’s something that lots of people think about when they want to improve their photography- “if I get the latest, most expensive cam/lens combination, then that MUST improve my photography “. This is aggravated by the constant drip of advertising and review in photo blogs and magazines
Hard to follow video when half of it is advertising your commercial products and urging viewers to interact with you to get more money from RUclips. Which, by the way, interrupted the video once for more advertising. If viewers like your videos and advice they'll naturally check your products, no need to shove them down their throats. Just saying...
I'm a novice and just started taking pics as a hobby. I find a lot of these pics and most others on the internet that are heavily edited fake. What's the point? Yovie taken a pic of a mountain etc, the. You go home and edit the shit out of it and it looks nothing like the real thing. Those pics are from fantasy films or games. That's not reality and it seems that's what is rewarded these days. Don't show the real pic , show a completely different edited version , not real photography in my opinion.
500K subs. Yes, that's where you are going. And you ask for thumbs up. Long time ago (decades in some cases) I decided I would never subscribe to SM things like FB or IG and the other ones. I would never like or dislike. But registered with YT, through Google, and post the occasional comment that may have much more impact i statistics than a like. And my subscription is my ongoing "like" in my thinking. So, Nigel, I subscribe to you for a very ling time now. That all said, I'm not sure that the monetisation model in YT, if you (partially) depend on that, associates a lot of weight to your number of subscribers, but much more to "views". Oh, also, I decided I would never switch the bell icon/switch to "on". I value my private life and real friends too much. I would turn "50%" of viewers are not subscribed around and wonder how many subscribers have not watched your video. For example, at this moment in time I write this, your video had some 3,000 views. That would mean that 1,500 views are from people who did not subscribe. Well, it also means that of your 463K subs, 0.32% HAS seen your video, but the other over 99% has NOT. I know, it's very early after release, but late enough for you to already have swapped the avatar picture with the video. And the % will rise still by a lot. My point then is, use the community tab more, consistently, to relay that you have uploaded a new video, and ask if people already have seen it, what they thought about it, etc. It's clear you know how it works, asking for response or comments brings you higher in the algorithms workings. If many people, like I do, never use bell icons, the notification of a new video comes late and may disappear under the other "recommended by YT" video lists. 20231015 463K subs 362 videos 35,297,707 views 20170120 - 345 wks active Vws/vid 97,507 (Vws/Vid)/sub 21% Wks/vid 1 These are a few simple personal averages and no doubt YT has much more analytics for you as creator. But, while you can ask viewers to subscribe, it may be more beneficial to ask subscribers to watch the videos.
1. Spacing is so important - 0:51
2. Lead the eye - 2:58
3. You don't need wide angle for foreground - 4:43
4. Matching shapes in images - 5:22
5. Balance is really important - 8:01
6. Light changes - 9:08
7. Simplicity always wins - 10:35
Nigel, you are quickly turning into one of my favorite photographers. I absolutely love your ability to look at one of your own photos and say "yeah that really wasn't the best".
my #1 tip that leveled me up beyond anything else was spending a lot of time studying and practicing composition - as you said balance is key, repeating patterns, leading lines, all of those things together to make an image pop
I've been following your youtube for a long time, and the "simplicity" tip has really resonated with me. I've tried to consciously think about that in all my photos. It also pairs nicely with removing distracting elements around the edges.
Good stuff. I appreciate seeing images from the same location where we can see what works and what does not. Shows that simple is better. Also, I thought your image was 50mm and not 35mm. I like that you had us guessing. “Normal” focal lengths are underrated and I’m glad you mentioned that this was not ultra wide, or zoom.
I'm a big fan of how you either orient more portrait shots or crop to a non-standard aspect ratio. Your eye for the best view is excellent, as seen with the 3 iceberg shots early in the video. It will certainly help me in taking that few extra moments in framing and organizing my photos. Thanks again for you viedos.
As someone that’s relatively new to landscape photography I’d like to say thanks for the tips! It gives me an idea of what to look for when composing an image.
Both you, Mads and Thomas have made lots of videos with tips, but luckily this one stands out in a positive way. It's not just about repetition (it must also be difficult to constantly have to come up with new topics), but good useful tips that can be taken with you out into the countryside, the forest or into the city if you're into architecture photography. All in all a really good video.
Great shots throughout the video, but loving those two images at 10:05. Really gorgeous simplicity. Same with 11:01 as well.
Greetings :
Great tips Nigel !
Im still learning , photography never gets boring .
I love listening and watching your channel !
Ive learned a lot from you .
You're a positive teacher !
Love your videos Nigel it helps me a lot, and I'm also always amazed how the same design principles also applies to photography.
Many thanks!
It's important to pay attention to the Hipergocal distance when using a foreground element. At looking an gorgeous photo, what is closer must be sharp.
As with all things photography, it’s amazing how as individuals, we perceive things differently in the moment. At 11:30, the side by side images of The Roaches, is a perfect example for me. While I find the left side image overall more pleasing, during my initial observation of right side image, my eye was immediately grabbed by the strength of the wall entering from the left, that I didn’t even take notice of the heather in the foreground. The framing of the image on the left, overall, has as much to do with its pleasing composition as its leading line. The spacing of the outcropping relative to the horizon line gives it slightly more room and a less cluttered feel, and the additional sky (which also creates implied lines entering from the upper corners) bring so much to the image, in addition to the path. As always, your videos are thought provoking, and I come away with additional perspective and insight on how to improve my composition. If I could only apply it in the field… Many thanks Mr. Danson
Thank you Nigel, you are one of my biggest mentors when it comes to composition! This is really good
Thanks Nigel, i found this video to be very helpful. I sometimes look at my images and are not quite sure why they don't work. Now I have some insight as to how I can improve.
Great useful tips, appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us
Your enthusiasm is contagious and your photos are amazing. I just subscribed. Thanks!
Although not technically a "tip", I think inspiration is one of the greatest tools to use in improving your photography. Your new composition e-book is a great example. I don't shoot a lot of landscapes where I live but do more intimate landscapes and macro. The tips and ideas in your e-book can equally apply to the photography I love doing plus the photos are damn inspirational!
My best tip is to watch as many of Nigel’s and Mads’s videos as possible! These guys are amazing! Thanks for all you do!
Thanks Randy and William ! appreciate that
I purchased your ebook on composition. I can't wait to read it. Thanks for your great videos.
Love it. I bought the eBook and must say it is amazing and worth every penny. Not only are the images stunning, they illustrate the concepts of this video extremely well. Highly recommended!
Thanks so much!
I get the feeling that many beginners will struggle with space initially. First, they don't zoom enough, and when they're told to fill the frame, they go in too far and things are near the edge or worse yet, cropped off (like tree branches, although there are some commpositon, particularly in a forest with a lot of trees, where you may intentionally crop off parts of trees to have a more simplified or intimate forest/woodland scene).
2:47 Vastness, emptiness, or even isolation....
I agree on the wide angle shots... where you don't need a WA lens to get foregrounds. In fact, I used to do that a lot, and while it works for some compositions, a lot of what I was shooting, like mountains, with a lake in front perhaps with some rocks or grass in the immedaite foreground (lake would be in the mid-ground) I found that shooting ultra wide lost the scene a bit, and that I really like the compression, even what you can get a 35mm versus say 14mm or 16mm. And I think this is a bit misconception especially for new beginner photographers, that you have to go wide if you want to include a foreground element. IN some respects, I don't like the ultra-wide look for some foreground elements because it can distort them a bit too much. Some of this has to do with shooting low versus higher-up obviously, but it's gotten to a point where I am sort of bored with ultra-wide landscape photography myself, and find myself often times shooting between 30mm upwards of 100mm in most cases (100mm when I want to really isolate something, like a tree or part of a scene- like the Hoodoos at Bryce Canyon NP). I actually am somewhat glad that Ie settled more on the 30mm to 100mm range for most of my recent shooting because while I do bring my Z 14-30 with me, I find that most of the time, I'm using my 24-120 lens instead as it's so versatile and I really don't have to worry about changing lenses and can focus on finding compositions and shooting. Of course I will use the 14-30 from time to time, but less now than I used to.
The best advice I can give new photographers would to be to just go out (learn about basic composition and then go out and shoot). Take a lot of pictures, try different angles. Be thoughtful about your compositions but try different angles. If you're using a tripod, resist the temptation to put it down and use it right away. Compose some compositions without even bothering with the tripd, because that will dictate where the tripod needs to go (the tripod is only a support tool). Take a lot of photos (different angles, perspectives, focal lengths, apertures, etc). If you're shooting digital, this is easy as practically free. Don't delete in camera (review on the computer first; and I say this for multiple reasons -- partially because the LCD?EVF is hard to judge things like critical sharpness, although it's good enough to check composition and overall exposure, and also because I've found that deleting a lot from the card can lead to card issues -- nothing permanent but possible corruption -- over time).
You are helping with your advices, and I love your spirit and commitment to bring the information to those who need it. Hat for that.
I just hope some tips for street photography lol.
Two tips I would give are "What is the subject of the photo?" - concentrate on that and bringing it out. The other is to be willing to move around, your feet are one of your best tools.
The thing with the wide angle is something I’ve been learning the hard way right now in New Zealand and Australia. Been using 28-50mm to get great foregrounds. One year ago I would have only shot at 14-16mm!
The first iceberg from light changes is mindblowing
Great tips, so helpful.Your work is stunning.
Most of what you call "ruined shots" look amazing to me 😂 From this video I learned that you have to be critical of your shots, even when they seem beautiful at first glance... there is probably a way to improve them!
Must admit I love the shots u are critical about 😊. What current or historical photographers impress u the most or have consistent bangers
It is also a good idea to go back to the same location after learning new tricks.
Great video and e-book. I put the tips on focus/exposure stacking as well as overall composition into practise in Little Langdale last week and definitely got some keepers. Many thanks!
Refreshing to see a video that discusses the pictures rather than the equipmnt.
Interesting video Nigel.
I think a lot of us see a shot and take it without balancing it out, i know I do. I think it's called slow down and take your time lol.
Look forward to the next one.
Thanks Nigel! Great tips!
Thanks for all the beautiful examples .Great points!
Great tips. How much of these are the result of conscious thought and planning and how much are becoming tuned in to to scenes that include these elements? My sense is it’s the latter for my photography.
I guessed 35mm when you asked focal length. Even though it might appear wider - easy to be fooled by focal length. Took me many years to work out that you don’t need to use wide angle lenses for landscape
Would be interesting to see a video from you on how to make complexity work in an image. Or when does it work and why..
Great video indeed!
I would still add technically, that aperture (and focus of course)is also super important - as a beginner, I many times took great photos (or so I thought), but later realized that I had done so at F4 so shots came out too blurry etc.
No... sharpness is the least important aspect. Light and composition is key.
Thanks for the great video, Nigel.
Simplicity is at the heart of the success of many great artists.JMW Turner's best paintings achieved this although he was capable of over complicating it and adding too many distracting elements. Punch magazine lampooned him with a title something like "Shipwreck, a typhoon with a Simoon off the maelstrom of Norway". The antithesis of a simple calm image such as Norham Castle
I actually realized that you don't always need a wide angle lens. Most of my photos are about 25 mm too...Great video as always!
Sometimes I'll take a shot in color and it doesn't look right. When I convert it to B&W it stands out.
Go figure. Good post BTW Nigel. Thanks, M.
Really enjoyed this, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Composition is the choice of the photographer. So long as s/he likes it nobody else matters.
Thanks again, Nigel!
My tip; I think color is a thing that's often forgotten. For examlle; blue vs yelloish orange is really nice, but also needs some balancing.
All good tips Nigel, but my top tip would be break the mould. Experiment and don't be a slave to the way you always shoot and the subject matter you tend to shoot. Don't just copy others. Play around with different crops. Shoot monochrome, partial colour as well as colour. Shoot close-ups and more intimate landscapes and look for abstraction in nature. Try ICM. Look for subject matter that is ordinarily overlooked.
Nigel been basically using your videos as my forefront of knowledge for learning and ive been out took some photos and im happy with them except in some areas there are these kind of black splodges you can only see when zooming in on lr or ps.
Any idea what it is and how to sort it out.
I have a canon r8 used the standard kit lens 24-50mm and i focus stacked and exposure bracketted aswell. Any feed back would be helpfull
Very helpful and inspiring!
It goes along with composition but height is very important. Most start with the eye-level shot but to change the fore, mid, and background weight and modify them to focus on the best elements is super important. It can drastically alter the size, shape, and sometimes even the colors in the photo. Experiment!
Yes - really good point!
10:13 amazing color comparisson! Good informations, thanks!
An excellent thought provoking video Nigel, thank you for the insightful comments into the ‘why and how’ you decide in choosing a great image.
At 11:22-ish, you commented about spotting out some little icebergs to make it a more simple image. Being mindful of photoshop ai, my question to this is, when is it ok and when not to make a simplified image?
Thank you! Now I can see my mistakes 😎🤘
Jeremy Parr one word awesome yours truly Jerry 😁
The ebook is amazing. Now is just a question of taking all the tips into consideration when we are on the field and that is not that easy :)
Nigel, I have a question, well more of a request. Can you one of these days do a video where you show your process of preparing a photo for printing? Namely, to be printed on matte paper? When we soft proof for a mate paper, all that beautiful contrast, all those deep blacks simply vanish and sometimes is very difficult to bring it back to be printed on a mate paper. Usually, I use Curves to bring that contract but, all the shadows get muddy and the highlights sometimes get blown out, and it really doesn't matter if it's a color or black & white photo. I would love to see your process on preparing a "muddy" image for mate printing. Thanks
🎉 0:23 0:25 0:25 0:25 0:25
What, no mention of an apple! 😂 Helpful as always. 👏🙏
Go out and shoot with a 35mm or 40mm prime, or even set your zoom lens to a set focal length and don't change it. Makes you think more about composition because you can't zoom in and out. Thank you. You were quick to change the thumb nail this morning too.
Yep - it doubled the views
how are half your viewers not subscribed?!! another great video. :)
I said 35mm - honest ! @4:35
35mm is currently my favourite focal distance after I broke my wide angle today (classic camera and lens sliding off the tripod). 🙃
Great video. Thanks
I always keep in mind that a great landscape doesn't necessarily means a great photo. Simplicity, sharpness and good light.
A really excellent selection of tips….
Thank you!
Hi Nigel
Love your videos and the bundle deal looked great so I have just purchased.
I don't know if its an American thing or not but bloody hell, how many pop ups or offers to upgrade to a better package or add this or add that are there?!
I was offered 5 upgrades, one after the other after each time I clicked the option ( in the smallest font on the page) 'no thank you'.
I have the main package now but hope I'm not going to be bombarded with ads now.
I know they are running a business but its very annoying and puts me off buying more.
Sorry for rant lol
Yeah - sorry about that. I agree there are too many.
@NigelDanson perhaps as Brits we are not as used to ' do you want to go large on that meal' upsell.
I'm very tempted with your ebook, if they haven't caught me with more special upgrade offers lol
Superb video.
ebook downloaded!
Thanks so much!
Hi Nigel....I run a photography group for my local U3A in here on Teesside and I've started to show them some of your videos to close our meetings. Here's the thing. my photography group is for those whose photography is restricted to smartphones....please don't faint! How about some videos on the use of smartphones. Of course, the principles of photography apply whatever camera you happen to have in your hand (or on a tripod...even for smartphones), but some smartphone-specific advice would be great. Thanks for all that you give to us....John D
Thank you great tips
Great video and advice 🙂👍
Thanks for watching!
hahahaha I guessed the 35mm... I very often narrow my wide angle to 35, since really wide (20, 16, etc...) don't come around so often.
Also, it could be great to print the book. Just an idea ;)
(or some tip about how to print it)
I thought it was 30mm. Not too far off ! Either way, it’s a great shot.
Great tips
More goodness. Carry on. 👍🥂
400 mm challenge needs a web page with images and a chance to vote!
Good idea - next time!
24mm
❤
The other cover was better. Great video!
Which cover?
@@NigelDanson sorry I meant Thumbnail.
Thank you for the video.
How about balance with family, I can barely ever make it to go out for few hrs alone and leave my wife and children.
50mm
I thought it was 35mm I have been focusing on 35mm lately 👍🏼
You probably addressed this before. What's the story behind the 49ers hats?
its a San Francisco Giants hat 🙂
I really struggle with composition. I watch lots of videos, I plan places to go, I practice, I try to follow the advice, but when I get home and look at the results, I am always disappointed. Maybe some of us just don't have the eye for landscape.
Don’t give up. I don’t have what you would call a natural eye, but over the years I have managed to learn. I have now got some images which I’ve had very positive feedback.
Keep shooting, take note what works / doesn’t work and return at different time of day/year/lighting- it helped me
@@keithmagee4450 Thanks Keith. I am retiring at the end of the year, and spending more time practicing my photography is one of my top priorities, second only to my health. Hopefully having the time will yield positive results!
Last tip: Instead of buying that pro level glass, instead just buy an airfare to your closest rugged mountain/volcano/grassland. Take a million shots, both focus and exposure bracketed, and then make us all envious with your 'superior composition skills'
Although many of these are UK locations, a day out, or a weekend away. Where does he mention the glass?
@@ruthwilson9449 sorry, its just a concept of money. INSTEAD of endlessly pouring over reviews/tutorials, use that next purchase money to go to faroe islands, iceland or patagonia argentina.
@@ruthwilson9449he doesn’t, but it’s something that lots of people think about when they want to improve their photography- “if I get the latest, most expensive cam/lens combination, then that MUST improve my photography “. This is aggravated by the constant drip of advertising and review in photo blogs and magazines
what’s your point?
@@liamosborne6859 I havent got time to re explain what words actually mean to every new goof that comes along
Frankly, I couldn’t tell which photo was old and which was recent…
Hard to follow video when half of it is advertising your commercial products and urging viewers to interact with you to get more money from RUclips. Which, by the way, interrupted the video once for more advertising.
If viewers like your videos and advice they'll naturally check your products, no need to shove them down their throats. Just saying...
I'm a novice and just started taking pics as a hobby. I find a lot of these pics and most others on the internet that are heavily edited fake. What's the point? Yovie taken a pic of a mountain etc, the. You go home and edit the shit out of it and it looks nothing like the real thing. Those pics are from fantasy films or games. That's not reality and it seems that's what is rewarded these days. Don't show the real pic , show a completely different edited version , not real photography in my opinion.
500K subs. Yes, that's where you are going. And you ask for thumbs up. Long time ago (decades in some cases) I decided I would never subscribe to SM things like FB or IG and the other ones. I would never like or dislike. But registered with YT, through Google, and post the occasional comment that may have much more impact i statistics than a like. And my subscription is my ongoing "like" in my thinking. So, Nigel, I subscribe to you for a very ling time now.
That all said, I'm not sure that the monetisation model in YT, if you (partially) depend on that, associates a lot of weight to your number of subscribers, but much more to "views". Oh, also, I decided I would never switch the bell icon/switch to "on". I value my private life and real friends too much.
I would turn "50%" of viewers are not subscribed around and wonder how many subscribers have not watched your video.
For example, at this moment in time I write this, your video had some 3,000 views. That would mean that 1,500 views are from people who did not subscribe.
Well, it also means that of your 463K subs, 0.32% HAS seen your video, but the other over 99% has NOT. I know, it's very early after release, but late enough for you to already have swapped the avatar picture with the video. And the % will rise still by a lot.
My point then is, use the community tab more, consistently, to relay that you have uploaded a new video, and ask if people already have seen it, what they thought about it, etc. It's clear you know how it works, asking for response or comments brings you higher in the algorithms workings. If many people, like I do, never use bell icons, the notification of a new video comes late and may disappear under the other "recommended by YT" video lists.
20231015 463K subs 362 videos 35,297,707 views 20170120 - 345 wks active
Vws/vid 97,507
(Vws/Vid)/sub 21%
Wks/vid 1
These are a few simple personal averages and no doubt YT has much more analytics for you as creator.
But, while you can ask viewers to subscribe, it may be more beneficial to ask subscribers to watch the videos.
Thanks and yep obviously watching is really appreciated!
Thank you!
Great tips