How was the new Helmut Lang show?
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2023
- Helmut Lang as designed by Peter Do debuted this New York Fashion Week. A highlight of fashion week, this debut has been much anticipated and watched by the fashion community as Helmut Lang tries to return to its luxury heritage. I give my first thoughts on the debut show and the deeply New York inspired brand, and we dive into Helmut Lang history like an attack submarine. How does designer fashion change over time? How does a design director concept a collection for a heritage house? Is the new show faithful to the brand's roots? Come find out.
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DUDE - I already recommended your channel to about 10 people this week
Cool! I don't even talk to 5 people in a week
@@coneheadventure - It was a busy week LOL
I would recommend his channel right and left if I was in regular contact with anyone that came close to appreciating fashion.
I am not.
@@pollysshore2539 I tailor men's bespoke historical suits 1890 - 1930, so I get "Oh I love fashion, but not historical stuff, I'd love to learn more" sort of responses every time I mention what I do. I direct them to Bliss Foster
Its way easier than having the debate "Historical fashion IS fashion IS street fashion IS high fashion. Fashion is fashion and it all pulls from the things that have gone before i.e. historical fashion". Bliss can explain it to them for me
@@piccalillipit9211 That is fantastic & handy (and I do love historical fashion because it is always with us).
I’ve been a 911 dispatcher for 2 decades, in Southern Appalachia, and cannot say my co workers are into fashion.
My best friend of 30 years is to a very minimal degree.
I don’t think I have ever had a friend that appreciated fashion to the same degree as me. It’s amusing when considering I hung around with the freaks and chorus/drama geeks.
It’s why I was the only one in my high school nominated to be a fashion designer or stylist by day and a mud wrestling comedian by night. 🤷♀️
“Your car was my first room” may also be a reference to Giovanni’s Room by James Baldwin where Giovanni’s room is the only place David and Giovanni can express their love. I know Ocean has cited Baldwin as an influence before.
I may be wrong but I think it may be a line from Ocean Vuong's "On Earth We're Briefly Gorgeous" - I recall a section where the young queer protagonist is spending time in his straight lovers car. No doubt Ocean probably read Baldwin.. "On Earth" is a gorgeous book .
Either way - I love to see the intersection of literature and fashion. So many graphic pieces have the most inane texts on them.
Wow it’s insane how Bliss can pick up on all the themes of just on your first reaction to the show. Absolutely insane, and he explains it beautifully as well
absolutely insane. Like the craziest thing I’ve ever seen. Freakin WOW.
I think the way I've always seen Helmut Lang's language as "less is more". It doesn't matter what aspect of Helmut you look into, the perfection of less is more is to me, a canon of all fashion. I think Peter Do was able to present varied visions of Helmut's history through his own lens. I also think the additions he has made with the AOP silk sets expands on the brand's language but keeps it quintessentially Helmut Lang. For such a high profile debut show, this was incredible!
The show was such an incredible deliver of Peter's vision for the brand. For me, a Vietnamese, seeing those beautifully written lines of poem in Vietnamese from Ocean on the runway was such an emotional moment. ❤
Yours is the first discussion of Pete Do’s Helmut Lang show that has made any sense at all and wasn’t just superficial.
I love Peter Do, I love Helmut Lang and I love Ocean Vuong...sooooo THIS IS AMAZING!
As a Vietnamese i feel so proud of Peter Do, Ocean Vuong, many vietnamese model and people working on the helmut lang show
I treat this like Bliss University and this is the only class I show up early for
I loved the poetry, it adds so much
Sarah, I really appreciate you consistently sharing your thoughts. Seeing comments from you brightens my day 💫💫
That leather cigarette holder is the insane
The "cast" on the sleeve is a direct reference to a white denim jacket with a black leather sleeve from Helmug Lang.
Wow! Super loved this bliss! Helmut was the first big designer I bought from when I got into fashion- a
Black satin long sleeve T-shirt with slits in the arms just below the shoulder line. Will head over to Patreon for that really nice HL archive! Thanks bliss!
Been a fan of Helmut for years, and your video really captivated how the show both paid respect to those Helmut roots.
incredible video, as always! thank you so much for your work, bliss
This is such an interesting viewpoint. I am old enough to have known (and worn) the original Helmut Lang designs back in the 90's. Still remember how groundbreaking he was: minimalism, androgyny, atypical beauty. And the way he did colour was Rick Owens's like in a way (disturbing and unpretty). Thank you very much for bringing back all those memories for me.
Loved this. ❤ can’t say more, other than THANK YOU for sharing. Big love from Ireland 🇮🇪
You have to credit Gaultier and Mugler though who in the 80's proposed an alternative to menswear, particularly Gaultier for Casual menswear, even if Helmut later had a real runway to real-life proposition for men.
But cherry-picking is a bit what people do with Margiela...
I wasn't convinced by this collection. I still think that the best modern interpretation of Helmut Lang we had was when Raf was at Calvin Klein. His first 3 collections were Helmut Lang to the fullest: The crombie coats, the jeans, the cowboy boots, the artists collaborations....It was an European POV after all.
Helmut Lang is an European who lived in NYC and it seems like the new narrative is trying to erase that part and that influence when he only showed in NYFW for 3/4 years.
The *elbow pops* took me out!! 🤣 but thank you so much for the video I don’t know much about Helmut Lang (the fashion house or the person) but can’t wait to take a deep dive and learn more! 💜 -B.
hey bliss, it’s so funny that you mentioned the stereotypical “ism’s” of lang, specifically the classic, minimal, and utilitarian everyday pieces. i started following fashion about 6 years ago, and thanks to people like you i’ve learned so much. that being said, i was heavily involved (or should i say consumed) by the typical instagram fashion mood boards. we really did cherry-pick lang’s work, and thus it totally shaped the way i perceived his work and label. it’s really interesting that you made the point of ‘what if we cherry-picked other looks? how does it recontextualize his work? how does it change the general public’s interpretation of his brand?’ anyways, i just wanted to mention that i’m a fan of his work through these cherry-picked looks. i like what it symbolizes. so much so that i purchased a pair of 1997 denim and have cherished it for its historical importance in fashion (at least me). bliss, i hope you’re doing well, i love to see you continue to create and at such a high level. props to you, please continue to educate us! by the way - what watch are you wearing? i’m so curious because i love horology, but sometime it seems like watches and high fashion don’t really mix. i’d love to hear why you chose that watch and how it fits into your personal style (in regards to how easily it can pair with your wardrobe). i know that was a lot to read!! cheers man
A+ for that vest/shirt thing by Raf. Also, didn't see that ASMR intro coming, but I'm not complaining.
As ever, great video Bliss!
Beautifully said, as always. Thank you so much for the introduction (for me) to Mr. Lang's process and career. I always knew he was there, I just wasn't paying attention at the time.
I love the concept of the first 4 shows as being the groundwork for what latter iterations will be. Thank you. That's actually a really great thing to keep in mind when you're in the early stages of plotting a career.
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
i've seen the helmut lang collection video and after this video i think i am going to rewatch it ..... that was one awesome video
LOVE your videos, the insight you provide, your energy
as much as i respect the research as a nerd myself, your ability to journal and report a live show is great, would love to see more of this.
This is such a good video. You have broadened my perspective again. And I loved your comments about cherry picking. Most things that we do as humans are not always great or always bad… context is critical. I also love how you have reinforced that symbiotic nature of fashion. Nothing is done in a vacuum.
And hearing your live reaction is fascinating. Love this approach. Thanks for reminding us about the trajectory of designers that are new to an established house.
i dont really follow fashion news but this video was very well-crafted! i had never heard of peter do before even though he's vietnamese just like i am. thank you bliss!
update: i was just thinking about ocean vuong and his poetry before watching this video, its amazing the art he and peter created.
I hadn’t heard of Ocean before researching for this video. What’s your experience with his Art been like?
his prose is excellent, i recommend on earth we’re briefly gorgeous, or night sky with exit wounds if you like poetry.
@@starfishhhhh79 awesome, thank you
Poetry and writing is something that's super important to me. On earth we're briefly gorgeous is my favourite novel and has been integral toward finding my own writing style and identity of capturing raw emotion.
For full history understitch just released a great video!!!
I simply love how Vuong's poem also works as a NYC crosswalk
Dudeeeeee. What a lovely video to watch while I'm eating lunch LOL I have to stop, repeat, and zoom in on so much in this video. I totally agree with ya, Do is the quintessential Helmut Lang follower to design for the brand. It's part of his DNA... I didn't know the background of the poetry, Thanks for that reminder, I just thought it was a reprint of the original Jenny Holzer stuff. It really added so much more emotion to the collection than I expected.
The car being the first home really hits home for me and many many LGBTQIA+ folks who were rejected by family when we came out and needed a safe space to be themselves. WOW, this really hit me hard.
I'm excited to see what Peter Do does with the brand and hopefully they'll give him more than 4 collections to figure out his way and define his own LANG language to continue to develop throughout the years. I feel something special is coming with this new creative direction - I look forward to seeing them and then getting to read and watch all the articles/ vids to dive deeper in my research. I can't wait.
werdddddddd!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
bliss, I've only been made aware of your content in the past few days and you are quickly becoming one of my fav creators. continue talking about the things your passionate about, that's where the heart of the content is and I love it
So glad you’re here and thank you for the kind words 🦾
As you watch thru videos, I’d love to hear your thoughts-I read all the comments. Again, welcome in 💫💫
@@BlissFoster There is so many things I could say about everything I've seen so far. I could make video essays about your videos. keep up the good work and once I finish the backlog of content I look forward to seeing the new notis for new videos coming out. I am a new student right now but once I can get my finances stabilized I would love to explore the backlog of pateron content:) Hope you have a lovely day and keep on being you to the fullest.
Mr. Foster, your work remains stellar. Thank you for deepening our understanding of each other through fashion. My apologies for the reversal of fortune that necessitated my hiatus from Patreon. All the best to you.
All good homie, thank you for the support and the kind words 💫💫
As someone newer to fashion, Peter Do has been my favorite designer and I'm absolutely love seeing him do what he does. I really hope I get to meet him one day after I begin my career🤞🏿
Go to New York, he works right out of Brooklyn I believe
@@jonnyfendi2003 Say less. Ill def be moving there in the next couple of years.
Great observations as always Bliss Foster! After I watched your video I then saw the collection of Proenza Schouler and to me it seems as they(Lazaro and Jack) were also influenced by Helmit Lang.
I’m excited. I’ve already watched a few fashion shows, as usual, but have not watched this one yet.
I loved Helmut Lang shows, and hope Do is going to do great things.
I’ve already seen a few articles saying he missed the mark because the show is a carbon copy without the pizazz, but I don’t see anything wrong with paying homage while maintaining his minimalist approach first.
I hope you’re on the StyleZeitgeist Podcast one day. I would love to hear your life journey in fashion before and current.
i’ve been waiting for this one
1/3 into the video and I wonder: why is it so important to always continue labels that used to be innovative and new? Why continuing the cash cow only to then figure out what creative director would fit even if this person has his own brand?
just curious: what do you guy think?
Because as Bliss stated certain brands develope a language and strong voice. So then if would be easier for new directors to mimic the original language with updates.
Hi bliss, I commented on ur video a month or so back. I referred a balenciaga store employee that talked to me for 30 minutes about demna to ur demna video(s) to learn about vetements, also told her to subscribe to the Patreon
😂 love ur content 💗💗💗💗
edit: i watched her put ur name into her notes app, so shes defo watched something 🙏
Love your fashion history
Heya Bliss, that’s interesting you mention Helmut Lang always incorporates “normal clothes” within the bombastic elements ~ do you think this is his way of changing the way people dress slowly? In another you tube video, I forget which; you mentioned the goal of fashion is to change the way people dress. It’s pretty cool, how minimalism juxtaposed with bombastic elements could be a slow way to introduce newness into the generic wardrobe.
the shirt you pointed out that reminded you of a cast is actually a reinterpretation of an old helmut lang jacket that featured a black leather sleeve.
Bliss Foster you have to make a podcast. PLEASE !
was waiting for this
1:08 I didn't know Rick Astley was a runway model!
Thats interesting, I didnt know fashion designer sometimes have their own design language.
I always associate Helmut Lang with simple black basics in minimalist cuts and very tall, thin models looking very mad/sad/bored. It's a stereotype and I think he was already making fun of it by the mid 90s. I liked all the color blocked stuff and the backwards button down is such a classic minimalist twist and the choice to put t-shirt writing on it lifted out of catalog fashion territory. None of these ideas are earth shaking, they are incremental which, if my understanding of the endyma tour was correct, is the way Helmut Lang worked all along...
i think is mainly because of the borinh stuff they put out after his leave
I typically associate a lot of the designs with deconstruction. But I think I associate the overall brand and aesthetic with what you said.
I owned a bunch of mid to late 90's Helmut Lang menswear that I got rid of too soon on eBay because I was just purging stuff from storage. But they were all grailed pieces in retrospect. I still own a couple.
I think the whole runway sequence was like what would be seen at a grand central or a subway junction, where people are crisscrossing to get to their specific subway gates. the show begins with people walking around which would signify the morning hours after which it dies down and only a few people walk across signifying "off peak hours". Then at the end they all start walking in all directions to state the rush hour at the stations. Very new york.
also the announcer announcing the train leaving etc was a clear indicator
I believe that in 2023, it’s no longer just about the clothing and the actual garments. Everything has been done and no one will ever hit the pinnacle that Helmut established at the namesake. What Peter did was take those derivatives and innovate small details. It was NYC asf and it was Vietnamese asf. That’s how you interpret a house brand whose founder left 18 years ago.
Already a subscriber, so I’m free to learn something 😅 …ooh, just wanted to say I saw you in an ARTE fashion documentary a month ago!😂 It was about upcoming african designers. There were some shots from fashion week and I was like, „Is that Bliss Foster!?“, paused, rewound and yes, a split second of ya doing your thing!😂
WAIT NO WAY 👀 what was the doc called??
@@BlissFoster African Styles. You may be able to find it online.
so what is the common theme for helmut lang, if any? this episode was a bit more difficult for me to grasp, i couldn’t understand what helmuts objective was.
On the Patreon... do you do close ups of clothing items to show garment construction? I am a nerd for garment construction and want to see how your pants were made. 😂
great video
Some of the camera angles and the chaos of the flood remind me of the movie thom Browne was inspired by (Play Time)
I was very excited for Peter do at Helmut Lang but disappointed after this show. It looks as if a pretty poorly trained AI tried to make a show based on the old stuff - picking up on details and aesthetics but without actually understanding any of the underlying meaning. I wish Peter would dig deeper
This is all fair, I invite you to watch my video called *Can We Stop Hating on New Creative Directors* I talk a lot about what it looks like for an audience to have realistic expectations for a 1st, second, third, and fourth runway show 💫💫
If you end up watching it, I’d love to hear what you think
Where i can find more info about Helmut?
Helmut Lang is probably more influential than any other designer from the 90’s he invented almost everything we know today as fashion, he knows so well how to capture and communicate the spirit of the times using solely archetypes, experimenting with materials, colors in a particular way that only artist can do. By the way It’s sad that there’s not any comprehensive book about his work. Lest be honest about Mr. Do. Peter seems like a smart and very good guy. What we see in his debut was kind of literal, flat, soulless, even kind of old for 2023 collection.
Thanks!
Ayyyy thank YOU
i don't have a fashion friend to share :(
i'm the fashion friend in that case
Shit was ass but give him 1 year and Helmut Lang will be back.
nice hair!!
whats a brand that you think needs rebranding?
To answer your q: people don’t J walk in LA because it’s a violent and terrifying place to be a pedestrian. Walking next to a 4, 5, or 6 lane road is already scary enough. Crossing it? Forget about it lol. Most streets in NY are 1 or 2 lanes, thus much less intimidating and easier to cross.
12th!🎉
*I LOVE THE SHIRT* you are wearing, the drape is fantastic, Issey Miyake?
The white one is Issey, yea! Thank you 💫💫
@@BlissFoster - HEY did you know Edward Sexton had died...??? The guy who with Tommy Nutter created the look of the 1970's mans Rock and Roll fashion...???
I respectfully request a video...!
pls do audio in mono
You know son much it s crazy
Alexander Plockov is the same guy that owned a brand named Cloak?
Yes indeed!
I'm not into fashion as a cult as most of it is so underwhelming to me (including Rick Owens' and Helmut Lang) though I paint clothes and am an artist so I really appreciate your unique and passionate analysis.
divide the cell !
Please include adds on your videos so we can support through that too
Why your hair looked like meret Oppenheimer object? How did that hair make hair visually uncanny it was already hair?
Travis Scott💀
i criedd lol
Because..
“Nobody walks in LA”
Lol wait I said “nobody J walks in LA” 😅
Your personality overwhelms the content. HELMUT LANG, the label, WILL NEVER BE HELMUT LANG EVER AGAIN!
Travis Scott? Wtf.. money move
3:09 Travis Scott????
He was their “designer in residence” or w/e for like 5 months. Very weird
Post Helmut Helmut Lang sounds like KVA Dior Homme 😂....It is ok but you know you ain't in possession of piece of fashion history 😂😂😂. Kim Jones era even worse...It is like the famed Balenciaga 80's airport licensed products artistic value 😅.
I smell Heider Ackermann
I don’t understand 🤔 Could you elaborate?
it appears women got equal footing on this show.
probably a gesture to the building a foundation.
probably a shout out to buyers, we will offer you the money maker that men's wear isn't.
maybe
How are you so beautiful. Please talk about self care and routine and beauty etc, because i think its a big part of fashion, like its a symbiosis between the clothes and the body pls pls 😊❤🫠
Is there some meaning behind wearing that mask all the time?
first
First 💫💫
Protect me from what I want
People are way too polite nowadays, so here I'll come in a New Yorker and be a little disruptive, and this is coming from someone who has deep respect and love for fashion and for designers who have revolutionized the way we tell stories. Peter Do is one of the most overrated designers, painfully safe, constant regurgitation of the most incredible minimalistic designers. There is not a single collection where he brings anything new or exciting. From an immigrant perspective, you would think he would bring this plethora of diverse tastes, but all you get is some reductive fashion student replicating and knocking off the greatest hits of someone else's collections. Anyone who admires his work or is even remotely impressed lacks an understanding of fashion history and taste.
Lots of Peter Do's initial popularity came from his links to Pheobe Philo. They even made it so their debut coincided with Hedi's appointment at Celine.
Another reason for his success is that, despite being extremely very derivative of 90s/00s Helmut Lang and Ann Demeulemeester, his clothes are quite "wearable" and approachable.
Personally, I find the business and marketing strategy far more impressive than the designs then themselves.
It was okay. End of story...tired of all this nonsense hype
Me and my girlfriend used to watch your videos but we broke up last tuesday
🫂
Helmut Language 🤌
not to be negative 🥲, but the debut was very underwhelming for ME,I get the references he did and how HL clothes are supposed to be low-key more than what meets the eye but this just fell so flat for me. the concept of the show was cool but the clothes themselves felt so bland and I'd even go to the extent of saying some looks i could get them at UNIQLO ...will still remain optimistic for the next collection cause i love peter do
This is all fair, I invite you to watch my video called *Can We Stop Hating on New Creative Directors*. I talk a lot about what it looks like for an audience to have realistic expectations for a 1st, second, third, and fourth runway show 💫💫
@@BlissFoster will sure do ...love your channel !