This is extremy great and well done. I've been playing in paper for a long time with my family and it was never very competitive. Now got the online sub and played the night through with my brothers yesterday. Really appriciate this video! Thanks a lot man. The segmenting as well is very well done. Man my university could even learn a lot from your didactics ^^ keep it up!
Great series! I used to watch a lot of your videos back in the isotropic days. Since then there have been a LOT of new cards and expansions I'm not familiar with (I fell off ca. Dark Ages) so it's a lot harder to follow your videos (Dominion Online's interface doesn't help much). Quickly going over the options you see in the tableau (like "there are no villages here, well [new card from expansion X] is sort of like a village") helps a lot - you used to do that a bit more before, I think.
Your first $5 should have been Market. Slam those buys, I see Peddler, I click Peddler. The advice of Peddlers being less efficient works except for Peddler, because it literally just costs a buy.
Yes. The point wasn't about optimizing my play in the "game", it was to be illustrative. Peddler costing only a buy doesn't necessarily stop it being less efficient than gold - it still costs a buy. Nevertheless, I don't mean the literal card, but moneymaking cantrips
Hey great video. could you explain 'overdrawing' in lay mans terms for me? and how to easily tell if you're overdrawing cards? I'm new to the game and its confusing me. thanks for any help
Overdrawing basically means you're drawing more cards than are in your deck. The way to tell is, you get to the end of your turn and you have more cards that would draw, but there's nothing left to draw
@@Econasdf You can also use some simple calculations. Remember how the series shows to add up the total $ in your deck to get the average value of a card (the starting deck is ~$.7 per card). In a similar way, you can add up all the "+Cards" of all your cards and compare to the total # of cards in your deck. You start your turn with 5 cards you drew for free, so you're overdrawing if (total +Cards) + 5 > (total cards in deck). Although as the video says, it's nice to err on the side of overdrawing, if you have a choice. As an example, suppose you had 5 Coppers in your deck and then 20 other cards that replaced themselves (Peddler). If you draw a starting hand of 5 coppers, then your turn is over and you are sad. But if you drew a starting hand of 5 Peddlers, you could play the Peddlers, replacing each one with a Peddler or Copper until your hand was 5 Coppers. You'd draw through the whole deck only if the bottom card was a Copper, otherwise, at some point you'd get stuck with 5 coppers in hand and some Peddlers still in your deck. For this deck, you have a total of (20 +Cards) and (25 cards), which is right on the threshold for 'overdrawing'. Now imagine this same scenario but with only 4 Coppers (still with 20 Peddlers) - you ALWAYS draw the whole deck guaranteed, no matter how you order the deck / draw your hand. Note that in that 4/20 deck, buying a Laboratory wouldn't actually help you draw your deck at all, so that would then be over-investing in draw. So from this relatively simple example you can take away that it's good to compare your +Cards to your total deck size. The video does this when picking up Golds and Laboratories (buy Gold to increase payload but also pick up Labs to keep the total +Cards ~ deck size). Of course, it gets more complicated if every action doesn't have a +Action attached, such as the Village/Smithy case... now you're not only managing the +Cards in your deck, but also how many +Actions you have vs the total number of actions... etc. The number of scenarios just goes up from there!
New player here. Thanks for this series. Really helped me to understand the strategy better.
This is extremy great and well done. I've been playing in paper for a long time with my family and it was never very competitive. Now got the online sub and played the night through with my brothers yesterday. Really appriciate this video! Thanks a lot man. The segmenting as well is very well done. Man my university could even learn a lot from your didactics ^^ keep it up!
Thank you for these videos
Great series! I used to watch a lot of your videos back in the isotropic days. Since then there have been a LOT of new cards and expansions I'm not familiar with (I fell off ca. Dark Ages) so it's a lot harder to follow your videos (Dominion Online's interface doesn't help much). Quickly going over the options you see in the tableau (like "there are no villages here, well [new card from expansion X] is sort of like a village") helps a lot - you used to do that a bit more before, I think.
Your first $5 should have been Market. Slam those buys, I see Peddler, I click Peddler. The advice of Peddlers being less efficient works except for Peddler, because it literally just costs a buy.
Yes. The point wasn't about optimizing my play in the "game", it was to be illustrative.
Peddler costing only a buy doesn't necessarily stop it being less efficient than gold - it still costs a buy. Nevertheless, I don't mean the literal card, but moneymaking cantrips
Hey great video. could you explain 'overdrawing' in lay mans terms for me? and how to easily tell if you're overdrawing cards? I'm new to the game and its confusing me. thanks for any help
Overdrawing basically means you're drawing more cards than are in your deck. The way to tell is, you get to the end of your turn and you have more cards that would draw, but there's nothing left to draw
@@WanderingWinder Hahaha, man i was making it more complicated than it had to be. Thanks heaps for your swift response man
@@Econasdf You can also use some simple calculations. Remember how the series shows to add up the total $ in your deck to get the average value of a card (the starting deck is ~$.7 per card). In a similar way, you can add up all the "+Cards" of all your cards and compare to the total # of cards in your deck. You start your turn with 5 cards you drew for free, so you're overdrawing if (total +Cards) + 5 > (total cards in deck). Although as the video says, it's nice to err on the side of overdrawing, if you have a choice.
As an example, suppose you had 5 Coppers in your deck and then 20 other cards that replaced themselves (Peddler). If you draw a starting hand of 5 coppers, then your turn is over and you are sad. But if you drew a starting hand of 5 Peddlers, you could play the Peddlers, replacing each one with a Peddler or Copper until your hand was 5 Coppers. You'd draw through the whole deck only if the bottom card was a Copper, otherwise, at some point you'd get stuck with 5 coppers in hand and some Peddlers still in your deck. For this deck, you have a total of (20 +Cards) and (25 cards), which is right on the threshold for 'overdrawing'. Now imagine this same scenario but with only 4 Coppers (still with 20 Peddlers) - you ALWAYS draw the whole deck guaranteed, no matter how you order the deck / draw your hand. Note that in that 4/20 deck, buying a Laboratory wouldn't actually help you draw your deck at all, so that would then be over-investing in draw.
So from this relatively simple example you can take away that it's good to compare your +Cards to your total deck size. The video does this when picking up Golds and Laboratories (buy Gold to increase payload but also pick up Labs to keep the total +Cards ~ deck size). Of course, it gets more complicated if every action doesn't have a +Action attached, such as the Village/Smithy case... now you're not only managing the +Cards in your deck, but also how many +Actions you have vs the total number of actions... etc. The number of scenarios just goes up from there!