A750E Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- 2006 Toyota Sequoia
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransm...
Transtar: www.transtar1....
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fi...
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource...
I just put my transmission back in and drove it for 30 minutes. When I got back reverse was slipping pretty bad and when I take it out of drive the column shifter is almost stuck in drive and I had to force it up to park.
When I left everything felt normal and shifts super smooth.
90mph absolutely no issues.
Replaced all steels, fibers, seals, and torque converter along with a remanufactured valve body from Transend.
It was having this problem right before I replaced everything but I assumed it was just the clutches due to torn off bits and pieces of fiber clutch material.
Sorry for the delay getting to you on this. The problem with the shifter has got me baffled. I have run this problem by everyone I know and they are also. Have you tried undoing the linkage and turning it by hand at the unit? What was the damage in the unit when you built it?
Thank you for your video 🙏
Thanks for watching.
excelente video
Thanks
Hi @CurmudgeonTransmission. I went through a full rebuild with TC ( Prior TC had bad shudder), shift kit and all. Went for a test drive and found no shift to 5th. Pulled the unit back out and verified clutch and plate thickness. Found all parts within spec and verified with Parts suppliers as well. Only thing that is standing out to me is that there is excessive B1 pack wear after the short time we test drove after the rebuild. Wanted to see if you had experienced this particular issue. My next step is to find a reman VB to try and work at the problem that way but i'm also having a hell of a time finding one those too. Thank you in advance.
No I have not. For 5th you have C2, C3 & B1 on. C2 is on in 4th also. C3 is on in 3rd & reverse also. B1 Reverse. SR, SLU & SL1 solenoids are used for 5th. I would suspect you have a valve body problem that caused the clutches to wear like that if you did not cut a seal.
I've watched a few of your videos. It doesn't look like you soak the clutches in fluid before installation. Is there a reason for that I'm not aware of? Just curious.
Just my choice. I have done it both ways and never seen a difference. I get asked this all the time.
My tacoma feels like brakes are stuck when i put it in drive, but rolls freely in reverse. Only does it when transmission warms up, what would cause that?
Sounds like 2 gears are applying at the same time. Probably valve body and/or solenoid problem.
Hi hope you can teach me your tool of trade. Transmission repair. Here in Kenya we scrap them
Got quite a few different ones on here. I try not to do the same ones again unless I can make them better. The early videos the camera was a little far away. I don't have a camera man so I have to find the best possible position for the camera that I can. Thanks for watching, hope they help you out.
Sir we have toyota prado 120 A750E automatic transmssion we replace all kits ,seals,lining,plates inside then we conduct presure test all the still okey and then we installed my problem is no reverse R flashing in panell what my be the possible cause sir
You either have a problem in the B4 and/or C3 clutch, SR and/or SLU solenoid.Problem in the valve body. Or problem with the neutral switch (rare).
I liked the work and explanation. My question is what model is the car? Is it a Tundra? I want a 57 with a 47 engine
Thanks. Make is in the description, 2006 Toyota Sequoia. The unit is the same no matter what vehicle it is in.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I follow you from the country of Libya in North Africa. I would like you to be able to send me a video link to build a Tundra gear, body model 57 and engine 47. I think it is a 2007/2008 model. I have a gear that was dismantled and assembling it again has become somewhat difficult and I am afraid that I will make mistakes.
If I only had your knowledge my Tundra would not crawl up hills.
Thank you for your videos.
Thanks for watching them.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Just pulled my trans and TC from my Tundra. With your video i'm giving it a go. I just hope i can get any parts i need.
@@tomheater6149 Hope it helps you. Parts are a big problem right now. Hope all goes well.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks man! I was able to reassemble it and am very confident all is well because you guided me through it. Now i just have to rebuild the motor and rear diff and bearings.
I've been burned too many times and i will only do my own mechanic work.
Thanks again and I wish you all the best!
Thank you, you as well.
Hello tank you a lot for your job, it is no an obligation to put the clutch in oil before ? Thanks
If I am understanding you correctly you are asking if you need to soak your clutches before installation. If you feel the need. I have never seen a difference doing it and not. I get this question a lot.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank's you
How much psi are you using for the air test and how much blow by is acceptable? And how long to you leave it pressurized? All of my pistons/clutches hold pressure with a slight air leak that I’m not personally concerned about because it’s air not oil but my drum assembly has more air leakage. It moves but then bleeds back down.
You will not get a great air test out of the drum because of those plastic rings on the pump.
Thank you for the fast reply and having these videos for everybody. It’s really nice to have a page that actually show the specific content someone is looking for when doing a transmission, it’s worth a million.
Thanks for watching them!
Hi there, so I have a Land Cruiser 200 with A750F transmission. Earlier the car having issues shifting to 5th gear and later I swapped the transmission with A750E. Now the issue I’m facing is when I disconnect the rear shaft from transfer case the car moves in Reverse and in Drive also and the minute I connect the shaft, the car only moved in Reverse and there’s no movement in Drive. No fault codes in Engine, ECT or ABS. Please help…
The F is "supposed" to be for 4 whell drive and the E 2 wheel. However, I have seen the F in a 2WD. According to the door tag anyway. Not understanding totally. The vehicle will move or you can watch the output shaft both directions with it disconnected. Because it sounds like it can turn with no resistance against it but does not have enough force to turn it does. Sounds like an internal problem in the unit.
Hi Tom. Thank you for this video, it is worth 1 million bucks. The reason i came to watch it is i have an A760E and my the transmission will not leave drive (which has a very long shift range) or neutral. Now I've been told that the rod that goes through the park neutral switch has an adjustment range on the inside and that i might very well be able to adjust it myself due to me very technically minded. So i an currently trying to find a video on this adjustment and the process involved. Do you have any video on this adjustment process? Thank you in advanced.
There is an adjustment for the switch. Believe I show how to adjust it at the end of this video. There is not an adjustment for the rod. If the rod is bent it will need to be replaced, Very rare. To adjust the switch. There is a line on the switch. The center of the flats on the rod needs to line up with it when the linkage is in neutral. Some will have a pointer on the washer that is behind the nut of the switch, that will be the line up. 12mm bolt holds the switch in place.
Thank you so much for that. I am praying that it is the problem. Thank you.
Where is your shop located so those of us within driving distance might bring you some business if ever needed. Thanks!
Have you seen an issue with the A750e where no matter what gear you’re in it only drives forward. Reverse and neutral drive forward. I checked the linkage and it’s fine. What should I look for? I suspect a rebuild.
B1 and C1 are probably welded together. I put the Sonnax zip kit in the VB as well as the SLT and SLU solenoids to address the VB wear.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I found two diagrams. One for the clutches that have b1 and c1. And one for the vb. You’re referring to the vb c1 b1 correct?
No, the clutch drums. The valve body being worn out is what causes the clutches to burn.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you. If I need any hard parts what’s a good reliable website or place to buy from?
@@antoniobarber8650 WIT or Bishops. Links are in the description.
Thank you for your videos.
Where do you recommend to buy in internet a rebuild kit for a a750f transmission? Orings, solenoids, etc im from spain.
Thank you.
The 2 main sources we use are WIT or Transtar. They would probably ship it. Links are in the description of every video. Other than that I am not sure, Will see what I can find out.
Great video
What will cause rough 2nd to first downshift
There is a bunch of things. Without being able to watch data on a scanner or knowing if there are any codes it would be hard to say what is causing it. I will say that it is a great posibility that the valve body is worn out.
Hello, if i do not change the Check ball in my valve body, do you think they will broken or anything like that ?
I mean if I reuse them after 200,000km.
The balls in these don't wear out as much as on other units. Not saying they don't do it but it will probably be ok.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks a lot
Can you replace front pump seal with trans still together? Just pulling apart from engine and popping it off? I am incredibly new to transmissions
Yes you can.
What was the reason to rebuild it? How many kilometers on this transmission?
I don't remember on either question. Problems all start with a worn out valve body. How long it gets driven after that will determine the damage. Usual symptoms are harsh or flair shifts. Up and down. Delayed engagements or codes for pressure control solenoid D (SLT) and/or shift solenoid E (SR). Have seen them with as few as 75,000 and as much as 350,000 miles on them. Fix the valve body problems when they first show up, I recommend a new one, and odds are you can get a lot of more mileage out of it.
I have A750F trans with 170 000 miles on it. Last 3000 miles with water (not antifreeze) in the ATF. Approx. 1 liter above level of ATF.
Flushed and changed the oil, adjust the level. Speaking generally the transmission works normally. Some minor issues with either switching 4th -> 5th and 5th -> 4th gear remain:
1) Some shuddering at low revs (~1200 rpm) in the 5th gear;
2) Delay when switching from 4th -> 5th;
3) Some excess vibration when switching D -> R;
3) 1st -> 2nd -> 3rd -> 4th and back is switching correctly, softly and smoothly.
What is your opinion, which internal parts might be damaged most likely?
Is it worth doing a rebuild, or less expensive will be to look for a good used unit?
All the Clutches. All the rubber. Even though you flushed it, usually it still doubles the work you have to do. Once water gets in there it makes getting things apart difficult and causes oxidation which will need to be cleaned out of the grooves where the lip seals go. Can also cause the plastic to become brittle if it is in there long enough. You never know what you will get until you get in there.
You don't take the shift shaft out?
Hello
The patient is my gx460 A760E box. I changed the oil in the gearbox about 5000 km ago, everything was ok, trip to Italy.
Suddenly, on a driveway (gearbox on D), up a hill of about 15 degrees, the car does not stop uphill but slides down, the ESP light comes on and the car brakes. When I turn on the reducer, the problem does not occur even at a much larger angle. Of course, original oil, oil condition checked. There are no errors on the computer. I checked the new filter was installed correctly. Does anyone have an idea? Yes, the gearbox works normally, changes gears, pulls perfectly normally, the car has power.
Not sure what you have going on there. Did a quick search and did not find that problem on ATRA, ATSG or TRNW. Did you use factory fluid when you replaced it?
yes WS TOYOTA@@CurmudgeonTransmission
Hi sir, I was facing a problem with my Land Cruiser 200 equipped with A750F transmission. I swapped the gearbox and now there’s no 2nd and 5th gear. Driving in manual, car becomes neutral in 2nd gear and shift straight to 3rd gear. There are no fault codes coming. Tried replacing valve body but the issue is same.. then I tried replacing the F1 and F2 one way clutch, still problem is the same. Can you please guide me? What should I look at?
2nd and 5th have nothing in common. Your 2nd problem I would say is a problem with the B3 brake. 5th I don't know because the only thing not in common with another gear that is working is the SR solenoid. Having switched the valve body almost rules out a bad solenoid unless you got 2 in a row that are bad.
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionthat’s what… Car drove fine for 1000 kms which rules out the valve body according to me…
My truck was stuck in drive after low tran fluid, I assumed it was the plates that fused together but all all the plates and gears look ok, where should I look too now?
When you say stuck in drive are you meaning it is trying to move forward all the time? Even reverse and neutral? Or is it taking off in a higher gear? Any codes?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I also have a transmission stuck in drive in all shifter positions and when I put it in reverse it doesn't move but goes under load so its fighting the forward gear. Truck is a 2010 tundra 4.6L. Any ideas?
Thanks
If the clutches are not welded together then you will be looking at a valve body or solenoid problem. Codes would help if it has been scanned.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission No codes. But apparently the transmission would slip out of gear and reengage hard after a few seconds before the stuck in forward problem. Should I try a valve body or take the whole thing apart ? And if I do take the transmission off should I replace the torque converter? Thanks
That is going to be a judgement call you will have to make once you get the pan off. Sounds like there is probably internal damage though. Personally, if I was doing it, I would put a torque converter in it while I was there. It's a lot of work to take a chance on it.
What is "Dish Down" on the cusion plate? if it was a bowl would that be the turning it upsidedown as you put it in the transmission or the holding water side up?
Dish down would be the bowl right side up, dish up would be turned upside down.
thank you so much for doing these videos, gave me the confidence to rebuild on my own.
@@danjwarner Welcome, thanks for watching them.
What's typically broken on there when there's a loud bang and then a RPM varied crunch noises in gear/rev?
Or is that unknowable without opening it?
Never know what you will get till you get in there. Does sound like a planetary set let loose though. I have yet to have one of these that has done that though.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks. I don't get it, it only has 120k on it.
Never done a trans rebuild but $350 vs $3500 is making me reconsider.
Is it really just dropping everything in order or is there alot of hand feel experience that goes into fitting some parts that doesn't come through in the video?
@@phildo3668 This unit especially has a spot in it that feel comes into it alot. Even then I don't always get it all the way down, but at least I know where to go to when it doesn't work out right. I get comments all the time about not using dial indicators and other tools to check things. I have been doing it long enough I can pretty much tell by feel and sight if it is right. I will get that stuff out if I need to but it isn't that often. Alot doesn't come through in the videos.
Are the A750E and A750F similar?
Yes. All the Toyota 6 speeds are, main differences being in how the first drum is set up and the valve body. I have a video on the F. ruclips.net/video/iOJZqZawEdc/видео.html
I have no reverse, and it slips At low speed but once it gets to 30mph it drives somewhat ok. What should I be looking for? Welded clutch plates? If so which drum is that gonna be located in?
The most damage will probably be in that first drum after the pump. The damage will be obvious, you won't be wondering if it's bad. The good news is most are limited to bad clutches and steels. Have only seen 1 with bad planetaries. Not like the older Toyota's which were horrible about them. The valve body will be worn out also. Have had good sucess with the Sonnax zip kit but I would recommend a new one from the dealer. They are not cheap. These units are a challenge so take your time and lay it out as it comes out and mark where all your snap rings go.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you!! If I do get a new valve body do I need to have it programmed?
@@dirtrider6090 No, but you do need to reset the adapts and relearn the shifts.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission is there a video or more information on that anywhere?
Don't think so. I don't normally do that myself. The shop foreman does. Guess I need to get him to film the process.